Plastic sewerage in the apartment. Sewerage in an apartment - features of self-replacement of the system

Dismantling the old sewer system in an apartment is in many ways a more responsible procedure than in a private house. After all, in case of mistakes, not only your home, but also your neighbors’ apartments may suffer. For this reason, many owners hire a professional team to work with sewerage, whose services are not the cheapest. But if you want to save money and are the happy owner of skillful hands, you can replace the apartment sewer system yourself.

Where to begin?

The first thing you should do on the way to a new system inside apartment sewerage, is to draw the future network. It is important to do this even if you plan to replace pipes and some plumbing equipment, and not remodel sewer scheme, changing the position of sanitary fixtures and the location of pipes.

It is not necessary to draw up a drawing, as is done in design organizations, but the diagram should be as detailed as possible.

The plan should show:

• lengths of all pipes to scale;
• be sure to indicate the diameters of the pipelines, their number, as well as the number and locations of all connecting elements and water seals;
• sketch out the sanitary equipment and its location;
• riser location;
• the number of pipes and the distance from them to the walls;
• location of inspection hatches;
• pipeline slope.

In order to correctly draw up a plan for arranging a drainage system, as well as implement it, it is necessary to take into account the nuances of installing an internal sewer network.

Rules for arranging sewerage in an apartment

Since the sewerage replacement will take place in an apartment building in which apartments located above each other have a common riser, do not forget to notify your neighbors about the upcoming work. After all, you will cause them a number of inconveniences, which is better to warn them about.

In addition, you will have to agree with the organization that maintains the house to turn off the water supply. So, you will at least protect yourself from the activities of forgetful neighbors related to the bathroom.

From a purely technical point of view, it is necessary to take into account the following nuances.

1. Many experts do not recommend replacing a cast iron riser unless absolutely necessary, since this material is really durable, and dismantling a cast iron pipe is a complex process, which, if necessary, is best left to professionals.

   

2. Modern material, most suitable for installation on our own, are pipes and fittings made of plastic.

   
   

   

3. An important condition when installing wiring is to maintain a slope for each linear meter pipeline. The amount of slope depends on the diameter of the pipe. If the cross-section of the pipes is 5 cm, then the slope should be about 3 cm, with a diameter of 11 cm - 2 cm. Changing the slope should not be allowed either in a larger or smaller direction, because this will ultimately lead to blockage.

   
   

4. The diameter of the pipes depends on their purpose. The riser, which will receive waste in large portions, should have a cross-section of 100-110 mm. This applies, for example, to a vertical pipe that collects wastewater from a toilet, washing machine and dishwasher.
   If the installation of the latter is not planned, and the bathroom has a separate riser, then the vertical pipeline receiving water from the kitchen can have a diameter of 5 cm. For sewer distribution It is better to use pipes with a diameter of 4-5 cm.
5. It is important to consider that the sewer system is subject to dynamics during operation. For this reason, when making a socket connection, it is necessary to insert the smooth end of one pipe into the socket of the other not completely, leaving a gap of 10 cm.
   This compensates for the increase in pipe length as temperatures rise. Another dynamic is associated with the creation of internal tension in the pipeline, which is regulated by two types of fastening the riser using clamps, which will be discussed below.
6. It is recommended to install grease traps on pipes that drain water from kitchen sinks and dishwashers.

   

7. Of all the plumbing fixtures, the toilet should be located at the lowest point of the intra-apartment sewer network.
8. It is mandatory to have water seals after the plumbing, in which liquid remains, preventing the penetration of foul odors into the room.

   
   

   Water seal for sewerage

9. If, during the operation of the old network, a characteristic odor emanated from the plumbing drains, and when flushing water from the toilet or washing machine, a loud squelching sound was heard from the pipes, then this indicates poor ventilation of the riser. Perhaps the drain pipe is clogged. Then you need to call a locksmith from the organization servicing your home. However, in some cases, simply cleaning the ventilation is not enough. Then the riser is equipped with a check valve.

   
   

After all measurements have been made, a diagram has been drawn up, taking into account all the nuances, and selected and purchased necessary materials, you can begin the dismantling process if we are talking about replacing the old network.

Dismantling the old network

Used pipes can only be removed when the water supply is turned off.

They start by dismantling the riser. It’s easier if this vertical pipe is replaced at the same time for all neighbors. However, this option is rare.

It is much more common to change the system in only one apartment. Let's consider this option.

Work related to dismantling the riser is dangerous and requires a certain skill, so it is better to invite a specialist to carry it out. In any case, you can’t do without a partner.

Step 1. Secure the riser from above using two half-brackets connected to each other with studs mounted into the wall. A rubber gasket must be placed between the half-brackets and the pipe itself. This measure will allow, when removing part of the riser, not only to avoid the fall of its section coming from the neighbors living above, but also to compensate for the vibration that will appear during the dismantling process.

Step 2. First, everything is separated from the sewer network plumbing fixtures. The bathroom is emptied as much as possible.

Step 3. Cut off the pipe going to the tee, leaving a small section of the pipeline. This measure will make it easier to dismantle the tee in the future.

Note! Cutting old pipes must be done carefully not only if you plan to preserve the riser or at least the tee. The reason for caution is the fragility of cast iron. During dismantling, vibration is created, which can damage the riser itself, and a fragment can clog the pipe.

Step 4. Make 2 oblique cuts in the center of the riser so that maximum distance there was 12 cm between them.

Step 5. By inserting wedges first into the lower and then into the upper cut, using a chisel and hammer, carefully remove the section of pipe between the cuts.

Step 6: While one person holds the old pipe on top, another person cleans the top joint of the old pipes. If the sealing is done using sulfur, then you can heat the joint with a burner. The sulfur will melt and can be removed with a knife.

Step 7. Rock the pipe together with the crosspiece in order to then pull them out of the socket of the pipe going to the neighbors below. This joint can also be secured with sulfur.

Step 8. Clean the socket of the pipe going to the neighbors from the old sealant.

The old riser has been removed and you can begin installing a new one.

Installation of a new riser

If you removed not only part of the riser, but also the tee, installation of the vertical pipe can be done according to the following scheme.

Step 1. Into the socket freed from old sealant down tube insert a rubber seal lubricated with sealant.

Step 2. Now a tee is installed in the socket.

Note! In some cases, the connection between the cross and the socket may not seem strong enough. This can be corrected by using special silicone or plumbing tow.

Step 3. Mark the axis of the riser on the wall with a pencil.

Step 4. Assemble the riser without rubber seals and install it in place for testing. At this point, you can mark the mounting locations of the fasteners on the wall. In standard apartments, 3-4 clamps are enough. If there are any errors in the assembly of the riser, they are corrected.

Note! Don't forget about the inspection hatches on the riser. They will help in inspecting the vertical pipe for blockages and cleaning it.

Step 5. Mount the brackets into the wall.

Note! It is advisable to use brackets, since it is not recommended to install the pipe close to the wall.

Step 6. Assemble the riser for finishing, this time using rubber seals and hermetic lubricant. At the top it is connected to a cast iron pipe with a cuff, and the lower part is inserted into the tee. Fix the riser to the wall with clamps.

There are 2 types of fixation.

1. Near the sockets, rigid fastening is used, carried out using tightly tightened clamps with rubber gaskets.
2. Additional fixation can be achieved with a floating connection, which is made with the same clamps. In this case, a rubber gasket is not used, and the fasteners are not tightened too much.

The installation of the riser is complete. You can start wiring.

Video - Replacing a sewer riser

Dwell in detail on the dismantling of old horizontal sewer pipes doesn't make sense. The main thing is to free the pipes from the concrete and carefully disconnect them from the tee. Since the pipeline is old and there is no need to maintain its integrity, dismantling it is much easier.

The principle of installing new wiring is not much different from installing a riser.

Step 1. First, draw the axis of future pipes on the wall with a pencil, observing the slope. Often a groove is made in the wall, in which wiring secured with clamps is laid.

Note! The width of the groove should be slightly larger diameter pipeline laid in it.

Step 2. Roughly assemble the pipeline without gaskets and attach it to the wall.

Note! The sockets must face the movement of water.

Step 3. Assemble the pipeline from its entry point into the tee to the plumbing fixtures. All connections are made using rubber seal and sealant. The ends of the pipes must be chamfered and free from irregularities.

Installation of sewer pipes

Note! Some of the clamps must rigidly fix the pipe, while in others the pipeline must have a floating stroke to compensate for the vibration of the pipes during the movement of water.

Step 5. The toilet is connected to the riser using corrugated pipe with a diameter of at least 10 cm.

Step 6. Connect the rest of the sanitary equipment to the wiring.

After installation, first carry out a visual inspection for leaks. Then you can turn on the water and use it to accurately check the strength of the connections.

Video - How to connect plastic pipes

Checking pipe joints

To make sure that the pipes are tightly connected to each other in the outlet and riser, you must proceed as follows.

1. Drain the bathtub by closing the overflow hole.
2. Release the drains and simultaneously open the hot and cold water valves to full capacity.
3. Plug the toilet drain hole. It is convenient to use a plunger for this.
4. Fill the toilet with a bucket of water to the brim and open the drain.
5. Ask the neighbors above to drain the water to check the tightness of the riser.

If the work is done efficiently, there should be no water at all at the joints.

Such difficult work has to be done to replace the sewer network inside the apartment. If you doubt that you can do it efficiently and in short term, then contact a specialist. After all, the neighbors also don’t come and wait while you figure out the nuances of dismantling the old and installing a new network on site.

Video - Laying plastic sewerage

Repairing and replacing sewerage in an apartment is complex technological processes. They should be started after completion preparatory activities. Work is carried out within a limited time. In dormitories with a large number blocking access to a common riser is not acceptable. All materials are purchased in advance.

Determining the angle of inclination of pipes

The peculiarity of the apartment sewer system is that it is non-pressure. The drains move to the riser due to their own weight and the inclination of the pipes. The bottom mark is the tee of the entrance to the common riser. In a typical apartment sewage water They go from the kitchen through the bath and toilet and merge at the entrance to the riser. The order of the pipes and their connection points, even in the same entrance, may vary. The sewerage system in the apartment is individual. Without studying it in detail, carrying out any work is unproductive. Installation errors are inevitable.

The main questions that need to be answered are related to the angle of inclination of the pipes, the number and shape of their bends and joints. The slope must maintain its value throughout the drainage system. It is calculated for a certain pipe diameter. When replacing old gutters, taking into account the cross-section of the new products is mandatory. The formula for calculating the angle of inclination is complex and can only be done by qualified engineers. Therefore, you should use ready-made tabular data that is publicly available.

In an apartment, determining the drainage angle has considerable difficulties. Limited space forces measurements to be taken in short areas. Operating with small numbers is fraught with unacceptable discrepancies in the final results. This will affect the effect of self-cleaning the pipe. It is achievable if the speed of movement of wastewater and the filling of the water supply system are optimal values. In this case, the organic matter is completely washed out. There are practically no blockages in the sewer system. At angle values ​​above the maximum permissible standards, the speed of the liquid fractions increases. The filling capacity of the pipe decreases. Solid elements remain in it and over time clog the water pipe. At low slopes the opposite effect occurs. Siltation most often occurs at bends and joints. For pipes with a rough inner surface (cast iron, polyethylene), this process is faster.

Some values ​​of the sewer pipe inclination angles are given in Table 1.

In practical terms self-installation sewerage in an apartment involves laying pipes using two methods: at a slope of 0.02 - 0.03 and vertically.

Vertical installation is used if the normal slope does not facilitate drainage to the required height for placing the plumbing unit.

Sewage system in the apartment

Residential premises, as a rule, have a stable set of plumbing fixtures. This is a kitchen sink, bathtub, sink, toilet, washing machine. Sometimes a dishwasher, shower, and bidet are added to them. There are two bathrooms, two toilets. The general sewerage distribution in the apartment is typical.

The installation of the drain is carried out taking into account the fact that the structure in the final part cuts into the riser through a tee. Two branches have a diameter of 50 mm, and one has a diameter of 100 mm. Additional connections are not possible. The angle of the pipe will be disrupted. To correct the situation, the sewage system in the apartment must undergo reconstruction. Plumbing products will have to be raised a few centimeters. For ease of use, build podiums.

The tee in the riser occupies the lowest point in the apartment. It will not be possible to embed additional connecting elements underneath. The toilet and bidet are connected to the main 100 mm pipe. For combined bathrooms, a bathtub or washing machine is added. The next line includes all appliances and units of the bathroom, and the third - the kitchen.

When deciding how to install a sewer system in an apartment, there are no big problems with connecting plumbing fixtures. They are usually installed at a sufficiently high height from sewer pipes and connected to them by vertical drains. In large dwellings, when the distance from the riser to the devices is large, it may be necessary to lift them. But this moment does not cause any great difficulties, since the owners arrange multi-tiered rooms. Connections to the sewer system of dishwashers and washing machines pose some difficulties. But with the help of hoses they remove wastewater through other sanitary equipment.

Connection of drainage devices is carried out in convenient conditions. Serious difficulties arise with strengthening the riser, without which sewerage in the apartment with your own hands is impossible. The top of the riser must be reinforced. Old fasteners, if they have already served for several years, must be replaced with new ones. The constant vibration in the house causes them to become loose. There is no point in tightening the bolts on them; they rust and form large gaps. It is better to strengthen the risers with more modern ties. They prevent vibrations of products and provide them with anti-noise properties. The lower part of the riser is strengthened as close as possible to the ceiling and even with some penetration into it. In this case, the section of the riser associated with the apartment will be less dependent on the shortcomings of the neighbor below, who may not strengthen his unit. Correctly fastening the riser will minimize the threat of a sewerage accident.

It is best to strengthen the risers outside the joints of the sections near your apartment. This will ensure that someone else's section will not be a hindrance in the future.

When working with the riser, it should be borne in mind that, made of cast iron, it is very fragile. Subject to corrosion. It is impossible to replace it yourself. This would be a violation of the laws of the country. The preventive maintenance will extend its service life. But if the riser is damaged, repairs will be paid for at the expense of the culprit.

The installation of sewerage in an apartment is not regulated by any documents. The owner of the object is free to choose materials. The repairs carried out are not controlled by anyone unless the neighbor below is flooded. But responsibility for all shortcomings also lies with him.

Taking this into account, a responsible approach to the selection of material for sewage is required. It seems that saving financial resources is undesirable in this matter. They are not so large compared to a private house. The best option is plastic pipes, especially polymer ones. Anti-noise products are preferable. They not only create comfortable living conditions, but also have high strength properties. Constructed from two pipes, the product has long term operation. Deadlines have not yet been determined. If installed correctly, it will not cause problems with the sewer system for a long time.

The main requirement is to use standard fasteners.

An important point in sewer repair is checking for leaks. To do this, the sewer system must be tested at maximum load. The bathtub is filled completely (until overflow mode). All cold and cold taps open hot water. All water, including from the toilet, is flushed. Check to see if all of it has leaked out. Particular attention is paid to the junction points. When deficiencies are identified, they are eliminated. The joints are re-treated with special means. After they dry, verification activities continue. If an error occurred with the choice of slope, then all the work is redone.

When deciding how to properly install a sewer system in an apartment, owners must proceed from the possibility of difficulties arising with the implementation of the plan. You need to take into account your strengths and abilities. It is advisable to consult a specialist when choosing the slope of the water pipeline. This is the most vulnerable point of the entire structure. Errors should be excluded here.

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Sewerage in an apartment: how not to drown in sewage and quarrel with neighbors

In this article I will talk about how to install, change and repair sewerage in an apartment with your own hands. We will have to study the materials used in the installation of risers and intra-apartment wiring, their features, typical sewerage problems and, of course, their solutions.

Areas of responsibility

Who is responsible for the sewage system in your apartment? How are areas of responsibility divided?

The sewer riser is common property. The housing department or another organization serving your home is responsible for the condition of the pipes and riser fittings at the first socket connection after the tee or cross.

Blockages, leaks and other problems are fixed free of charge; at night, representatives of the emergency service (including the city) may be involved to eliminate strong leaks.

Everything after the first connection with a tee or cross is on the balance sheet of the home owner. Leaks and blockages are repaired for a fee and only during the daytime. Of course, you can hire third-party specialists to fix the problems or, if you have the appropriate skills, do all the work yourself.

In practice, the apartment owner often has to do the work of municipal organizations, including repairs, replacement and cleaning of risers.
Dear reader, you are probably familiar from your own experience with the unshakable rule: if you want something done well, do it yourself.

How everything works

First, let's study in detail the sewage system in the apartment.

Materials

What sewerage pipes in the apartment were used before and are currently used? What can you encounter in new buildings and secondary housing?

Cast iron

Cast iron pipes had no alternatives until the 70-80s of the last century. Here are their most important features.

• The service life is 25 - 40 years. Cast iron is less susceptible to corrosion than steel, but is not completely protected from it: after prolonged contact with water and aggressive waste, cast iron pipes become brittle and often crumble at the sockets;

• Installation of socket connections is labor-intensive. It takes an experienced plumber at least 10 - 20 minutes to mint and seal one socket. The tightness of the socket is ensured by sealing with a cable (organic fiber impregnated with bitumen), sealing is carried out with cement-sand mortar;

Sometimes when installing cast iron sockets, builders used molten sulfur. To dismantle such connections, you have to heat them with a hairdryer or blowtorch.
The work must be done with the windows wide open and wearing a respirator: the smell of burning sulfur literally takes your breath away.

• The main problem with cast iron risers is the destruction of the socket where a poorly secured upper pipe presses on it;

• For combs (intra-apartment wiring), leaks along sockets with broken embossing are more typical. Restoring the tightness of the socket is often difficult due to its proximity to the wall.

Cast iron sewer pipes are still sold. However, their price (4-6 times more expensive than plastic), weight and labor-intensive installation make metal uncompetitive.

Monolithic polyethylene

I have seen monolithic polyethylene combs made for a specific apartment layout in houses built in the 1980s. They are characterized by:

• Plasticity, tendency to sag under its own weight with the formation of areas with counterslopes. In the future, sagging leads to constant blockages;
• Exceptional durability and mechanical strength. I have never encountered mechanical damage to the polyethylene comb or leaks in it.

The main problem with such a comb is its connection to the socket of the cast-iron tee behind the toilet or on the riser. Builders en masse sealed the bell with helix and cement, which led to gradual deformation of the plastic and the inevitable appearance of leaks.

Prefabricated plastic sewer

Modern plastic sewer is a system of pipes and fittings with socket joints equipped with ring rubber seals. The most common materials are PVC and polypropylene. Assembly is simple and does not require special skills or expensive tools; pipes last at least 50 years.

The only problem with plastic sewerage that deserves mention is the extremely low sound insulation: if you have a plastic riser installed in your toilet, you will hear the flush of your neighbor’s toilet no worse than the neighbors themselves.

Hydraulic valves

The connection between the comb and all plumbing fixtures must be absolutely sealed. Any gap means that sewer odors will uncontrollably penetrate into your home. First of all, this concerns residents of the upper floors: if the ventilation of the riser is disrupted, the draft that arises in it will transport all the aromas and fumes specifically to them.

To prevent odors from penetrating into the bathroom and kitchen through plumbing fixtures, each of them is equipped with a water seal. The higher the water is relative to the bend of the siphon, the greater the pressure difference between the room and the sewerage system can withstand without failure.

The siphon is not only a water seal, but also a primitive filter that limits the entry of sand and large particles of debris into the sewer system.

Why might there be a pressure difference?

The mechanism is as follows:

1. When water is drained from the toilet at the top of the riser, the flow fills the entire cross-section of the vertical pipe and moves downward. A zone of high pressure is formed in front of the flow front. Usually, excess air is forced out into the sewer drain and further into the well, but when the horizontal pipe is filled, it can also be forced out through the sinks or bathtubs of apartments on the lower floors, saturating their air with accompanying aromas;
2. Behind the flow front, a vacuum forms in the riser. Normally, air is sucked in through the vent - fan pipe, brought to the roof. However, if it freezes in the winter cold, the vacuum will suck the water out of the device with a minimum level of water seal, opening the way for odors.

Audits

In the case of sewerage, the word “revision” has nothing to do with reconciling warehouse balances: this is the name of the hatch for cleaning the riser. It is installed on the outermost floors of the house, and in five-story and higher buildings - on every third floor. The inspection device is determined by the material:

• The cast iron riser is equipped with a flat cover with a rubber gasket, which is bolted to the cast iron ears of the shaped part;

• The plastic revision is equipped with a threaded cover.

Problems and solutions

Now let's move on to the information that is of the greatest value to most readers - to a description of typical problems of indoor sewerage and ways to solve them. I will structure this section of the article in the form of a dialogue, posing questions and giving answers to them.

Riser

How to determine if a sewer pipe is clogged?

If drains flow into your bathtub and toilet even when the taps are closed, this is a sure sign that the blockage is outside your apartment, down the riser.

On the ground floor, the same picture can be caused by a clogged drain or outlet to the well. You can localize the blockage by sequentially opening the tees and revisions closest to your riser.

What to do if the riser is clogged?

The diagram requires several comments.

• You can clear a clogged riser not only from above, but also from below. In particular, inspections on risers are usually located in the basement, under the ceiling of the first floor. However, when cleaning from the bottom up, you will have to dodge the stream of sewage that hits from the audit, which is not always possible;
• The wire continues to rotate after clearing the blockage so that the cause of the blockage does not jump off its hook. As a rule, she ends up with a floor rag dropped down the toilet;
• If the blockage cannot be broken through with wire, it is often possible to clear the riser with an ordinary crowbar lowered from the roof on a rope;
• Finally, in the most advanced cases, the riser is opened directly at the site of the blockage (it can be determined by measuring a distance from the revision equal to the length of the wire entering the riser). The pipe section is cut out with a grinder; In the case of plastic, you can get by with a regular garden hacksaw.

How to replace a damaged section of a riser?

Replacement is required after opening the riser in case of complex blockages and in case of destruction of cast iron couplings or pipe sockets.

It works like this:

There are nuances here too.

• If the nearest socket is much lower than the damaged section of the riser, simply put it on the lower pipe sewer coupling corresponding diameter. Further installation is completely identical to that described above;
• AND installed pipe, and it is advisable to fix the compensator with clamps (best under the neck). Fixation prevents spontaneous disassembly of the connection;

• When cutting pipes to size, be sure to remove any burrs on the inside. They will catch all kinds of debris, creating blockages;
• It is advisable to chamfer the outside of the pipe. It will simplify the assembly of socket connections;
• To cut pipes to size, it is most convenient to use a grinder. The cut is clean and precise. The disc can be used for either stone or metal.

How to eliminate a leaking riser before it is repaired?

Apply a bandage. Here's how to properly bandage a riser:

1. A damaged bell, crack in a pipe or other defect is covered with several turns of bandage rubber or a bicycle tube cut to length;
2. The rubber is tightened at the top with a tie wire clamp.

How is sewer pipes soundproofed in an apartment?

Many manufacturers offer so-called silent pipes and fittings. They are distinguished by thick walls (3.4 mm versus 2.7 mm for conventional PVC), multilayer structure and a layer of increased density polymer with the addition of mineral filler. Silent sewerage is used to replace the riser between floors.

Noise reduction can be achieved without completely replacing the riser. Here is a list of possible measures:

• Fastening the pipe with clamps at intervals of no more than 50 cm using gaskets made of microporous rubber;

• Sound insulation with roll insulation or mineral wool;

• Construction around sewer riser boxes made of or wall panels.

Comb

How to dismantle an old cast iron sewer?

Dismantling begins with the shaped part farthest from the tee or cross (as a rule, this is an outlet for kitchen sink). The seal of the socket is chipped in a circle with a hammer and a strong, wide screwdriver; then, using the same screwdriver, remove the remains of the heel. After cleaning the bell, the outlet is rotated around its own axis and pulled out of the neck using rotational movements.

The following comb elements are disassembled in a similar way. Often, to dismantle the pipe between the bathroom and the kitchen, you have to break the sewer seal in the partition.

After removing the last section of the comb, the bell of the tee or cross is cleaned of sealing residues, rust and paint. To connect to the plastic comb, a sealing collar - an adapter - is pressed into it using silicone sealant.

How to eliminate a leak in the socket of a cast iron comb?

1. Clean the socket from the old seal;
2. Wrap three or four turns of a cable or, which is much better, a graphite seal around the pipe;
3. Seal the socket seal using a hammer or a wide screwdriver and a hammer;

To get to the back of the pipe, you will have to cut out part of the wall with a chisel.

1. Cover the socket with cement-sand mortar in a 1:1 ratio or with pure cement diluted to the consistency of thick sour cream.

As a temporary solution, you can use the already familiar bandage made from a bicycle inner tube or a rubber bandage.

How to install sewerage in an apartment with your own hands?

It starts from the riser. As a rule, a tee measuring 110x110x50 mm is installed first to connect the toilet and a thin comb. A rubber sealing collar is used to connect to the cast iron fitting; the connection is additionally sealed with silicone.

A comb with a diameter of 50 mm is assembled from short socket pipes, tees and angles. Here are some assembly guidelines:

• Bends for washbasins, washing machines, dishwashers, and sinks are formed with straight tees and bends with an angle of 90 degrees. The bathtub is connected with an oblique tee with an outlet directed in the direction of flow of the drains. It will allow you to avoid sewer backup during a volley discharge from the bath;

The bathtub piping is connected with an oblique tee, the washbasin is connected with a straight one.

• The comb is mounted with a constant slope of 3.5 cm per linear meter;

• If you assemble socket joints using silicone sealant, do not skimp on it: cheap compounds have weak adhesion to smooth plastic. I use Moment or Ceresit sealants: they adhere perfectly even to polyethylene, not to mention the rougher PVC.

How to lay a comb without sagging pipes and the formation of counterslopes? It is enough to fasten the pipes in increments of half a meter or less. It is advisable to place clamps or clips on the sockets: the fastening will again prevent spontaneous uncoupling of the connections.

In case of large unevenness of the wall, instead of clamps, you can use pieces of reinforcement 8 mm thick driven into pre-drilled holes with ends bent upward.

How to clear a clogged comb?

Typical causes inside the apartment are sand and grease from dishes settling in sewer pipes, as well as wool and hair on the grates of bathtubs and showers.

• The outlets are cleaned with a knitting needle or a thin cable fed through the grate. In the most advanced cases, the outlet is completely disassembled and cleaned over a trash can;

• Sand and grease plugs are cleaned with a cable through the nearest socket, after which hot water is opened for half an hour. It will wash away the remaining fat and remove all the suspended matter.

Fat dissolves effectively at water temperatures above 50C. According to my observations, the peak of sewer blockages occurs in the summer, when the hot water supply cools down to 40C and below.

Water seals

What to do if the water seals constantly fail?

In winter, go out onto the roof with a bucket of hot water and pour it into the vent of your sewer riser. Boiling water will melt the frost and restore normal ventilation.

If the smells appeared in the summer, you will have to visit the top floor along your riser. Often, residents of the top floors completely dismantle what they consider to be an unnecessary riser above the tee. Unauthorized redevelopment of common areas engineering communications recorded by representatives of the service organization; then, based on the act, residents are given an order to restore the original configuration of the riser.

Conclusion

I hope that my experience will help the dear reader in solving everyday everyday problems. As usual, Additional materials will offer a video in this article. I look forward to your comments and additions. Good luck, comrades!

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

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To install a sewer system, you need a sewerage diagram in the apartment, which involves the arrangement of a non-pressure structure. In it, wastewater and sewage move through an inclined pipeline towards the sewer riser. The lowest point of waste water discharge in an apartment is considered to be the tee entering the building's riser.

In residential buildings built three decades ago, the bathroom and toilet are located next to the kitchen area. With this version of the sewer system, wastewater is collected starting from the kitchen, then it passes through the toilet and bathroom and is ultimately sent to the common house riser. Due to the fact that its upper part faces the roof, the entire sewerage system has good ventilation.

How is sewerage installed in an apartment building?

It is at these slopes of the sewer pipeline that high-quality self-cleaning of its internal surfaces occurs. In addition to the slope angle great importance For efficient operation of the sewer system, it has a degree of filling of pipes with liquid. If the tilt is excessive, the speed of movement Wastewater occupancy increases and at the same time decreases. In turn, reducing the angle leads to the opposite effect. In both cases, the result of self-cleaning worsens. It is necessary to understand how sewerage works before starting any repair work.

That is why the sewerage scheme in the apartment provides only two ways to lay the network:

• at a slope of 2-3%;
• strictly vertical.

Vertical sewerage distribution in an apartment is used when the optimal slope of the sewer pipe is not able to ensure that the pipes are brought to the height of the plumbing fixture.

Do-it-yourself sewerage installation in an apartment

Typically, do-it-yourself sewerage installation in an apartment is done as follows:

• a toilet is connected to the main pipeline branch with a diameter of 100 millimeters;
• the first of the main lines (its diameter is 50 millimeters) is connected to devices located in the toilet and bathroom - this is a bathtub, a shower stall, washing machine, wash basin;
• The second main branch with a diameter of 50 millimeters is connected to the kitchen plumbing, or more precisely, to the dishwasher and sink.

Connection diagram for plumbing fixtures

Since the pipes are routed with a uniform upward slope, the further the plumbing fixtures are located from the riser, the higher the drain needs to be raised relative to the entry point. Sometimes when performing repairs it is necessary to replace the sewer riser in an apartment. It's better to do it right away. than having to redo all the work later.

In order for drainage to be effective in an apartment, you need to know how to properly install a sewer system in an apartment and connect plumbing fixtures. For example, you need to connect a kitchen sink and sinks at a height of 50-60 centimeters from the floor surface, while there is no need to lift the plumbing fixtures, since the drains in it are located at a distance of 70-80 centimeters from the plane on which they are installed.

Types of sewer pipes

• polyethylene;
• polypropylene (read: " ");
• polyvinyl chloride.

Features of sewer pipe installation

In this case, the pipe is inserted to the final stop and then moved back approximately 10-15 millimeters. As a result, a damper gap is formed at the junction to compensate for the thermal expansion of the product.

When laying out the sewer system, it is advisable not to make right angle turns. Experts recommend using two 1350 corner fittings instead of one 900 corner fitting, which will significantly reduce the possibility of blockages and will facilitate the smooth movement of drains.

Purpose of a water seal in a sewer system

To connect kitchen sinks, showers, bathtubs and sinks to the sewer system, siphons are used, which have dual functions:

• water seal;
• connecting element between the pipe and the plumbing fixture.

Solving the question of how to install a sewer system in an apartment is an important stage in preparation for repair work. But for this you need to have a clear understanding of how the sewer system functions during its operation.

Replacing a sewer system in an apartment with your own hands is a complex, responsible, difficult, troublesome and dangerous task. Where there is still old cast iron, replacing it with plastic, as they say, simply screams. But plumbing work roads, and for good reason. Therefore, it is recommended to undertake sewer repairs in an apartment yourself only if there is an acute shortage of funds. And first you should clearly understand the sewerage system, otherwise a small inaccuracy can turn your apartment into a gas chamber. In this regard, the work of a plumber can be compared to the work of a sapper.

Sewage device

A typical sewage system in an apartment is shown in the figure. The main principles of its design are that under any external conditions, the pressure in the riser is slightly higher than atmospheric pressure and accurately maintained slopes.

If the first rule is violated in a smaller direction (low pressure) atmospheric air will squeeze sewer gases into the apartment and can form an explosive mixture with them. If there is excess pressure, harmful gases will eject water from the siphons and break into the home themselves.

About pipe slopes

Installation of sewer pipes is carried out at a slope within strictly defined limits. If the slope is small, the liquid simply will not flow down them, and if the slope is too large, the water will drain quickly, but the contamination will remain in the pipe. Paradoxically, excessive “leaking” of the sewer pipe leads to chronic blockages. SNiP give the following values ​​for MINIMUM slopes of sewer pipes:

1. With a diameter of 50 mm – 30 mm/m.
2. 110 mm – 20 mm/m.
3. 160 mm – 8 mm/m.
4. 200 mm – 7 mm/m.

The MAXIMUM slope should not exceed 150 mm/m, with the exception of bends for plumbing fixtures up to 1.5 m long. Connecting sewer pipes at right angles is allowed only in a vertical plane.

It is difficult to maintain slopes in a residential area, but this is a very responsible task. Therefore, when completely replacing the sewer system or designing it for a new house, it is recommended to use the capital guidance of A.A. Lukins. and Lukinykh N.A. " ". This fundamental work, which, in addition to ready-made values ​​for most life circumstances, also contains formulas by which you can independently carry out calculations for exceptional cases.

About neighbors

Replacing the sewer system yourself in an apartment building is impossible without good neighborly relations: after all, during your work, the neighbors “on the risers” (above and below) will have to sit without water and endure it or go to a bucket instead of a toilet. And any secret ill-wisher, by opening the taps of the cold and hot water risers in the basement, will give them a sign that the work is supposedly finished. They will start using it “from the heart”, and everything from above will come to you. Non-trivial options are possible here. The author of these lines knows of a case where an evil and irresponsible alcoholic was successfully neutralized during work by getting him drunk to death.

Protective Equipment and Precautions

When repairing a sewer system, the riser outlets, even if they are not changed, will have to be released for some time. Let’s say everything is settled with the neighbors and the water is turned off. But where is the guarantee that one of them will not be “grabbed” to the point that he forgets, does his job in the toilet and flushes out of the bucket? And all this will be yours. And on you. Therefore, before starting work:

• Remove the toilet and clean the toilet completely.
• Close the walls and floor of the toilet plastic film on tape.
• Stock up on a plastic raincoat, rubber boots, gloves and a helmet with protective glass. A separate glass on the hoop will not work: you will have to work with heavy, brittle cast iron hanging above your head.

Securing the riser at the top

A prerequisite for do-it-yourself sewer repair is a securely fastened top of the riser. You should not rely on standard fastenings (if they still exist) on the floors: over time, they weaken, rust, and during repairs, all the upper sections may end up in your apartment. Replacement, of course, at the expense of the culprit.

Moreover, old cast iron riser may burst from vibration when working with a power tool or impacts even at a sufficiently distant area from it. A properly executed fastening unit is also a damper that absorbs vibration. And in any case, a securely fastened riser will reduce the likelihood of a sewerage accident.

To secure the riser at the top, right under the ceiling, but always above the very top joint of the pipes, on both sides of the riser, two strong crutches with a diameter of at least 12 mm are mounted on cement mortar. Threaded rod pieces or ready-made studs with a metal mounting collet work well; in this case, you can do without cement. The embedment depth is at least 120 mm. The stud must protrude at least 40 mm beyond the middle of the riser pipe.

The riser is secured with two semicircular brackets (half-clamps) 2-3x40-60 mm in front and behind. Strips of thin, dense rubber, for example, from a car inner tube, are placed under the staples. In the “ears” of the half-clamps you need to drill holes for the studs. The staples are attached to the studs between two nuts, tightening them alternately to prevent lateral forces from appearing on the riser. It is also unacceptable to secure the riser with one clamp or bracket, pressing it against the wall. If the riser is already adjacent to the wall, you need to carefully knock out a groove under it for the rear bracket. And don’t forget – cast iron is very fragile!

Pipe material

It is known that plastic pipes are certainly better than cast iron pipes. But plastic comes in different varieties, and the reliability of the sewer system largely depends on the material of the pipes. Quality and comparative cost pipes from various types plastics are as follows:

1. Polyethylene is cheap, but it is definitely rejected: it is subject to deformation, is not heat-resistant, and does not seal reliably. Polyethylene pipes come on sale from “alternative” manufacturers; Repairing the sewer system “temporarily” is nonsense.
2. PVC is cheaper than propylene and has the lowest hydraulic resistance; it is glued with dichloroethane glue. But heat resistance is limited to 80 degrees, and its strength and chemical resistance are not very high: you can clean PVC sewers only with a plunger or an ultrasonic emitter.
3. Polyisopropylene (propylene) is quite expensive and not as smooth as PVC. But it holds up to 130 degrees, and due to its strength and durability it allows mechanical cleaning with a cable or spiral and chemical cleaning active means, except for concentrated acids and alkalis.

Pipe diameters

The diameter of the sewer pipes of 32 mm is acceptable in two cases: if the sewer system with separate risers and the drainage from plumbing fixtures goes directly into the riser or the length of the wiring from the farthest point to the riser does not exceed 7 m. In other cases, you need to use 40 mm or 50 - mm pipes.

The minimum diameter of the riser pipe is 110 mm. Sometimes there are risers of 160 mm and even 200 mm. Accordingly, you need to select the elements of the new riser, see the section on replacing it.

For PVC sewerage, if the drainage from the kitchen is only from the sink, a 32 mm pipe can be laid from the kitchen to the bathtub. But the drain from the bathtub and further to the riser must be at least 40 mm in any case.

Work order

Replacing the apartment sewer system is carried out in the following order:

• We determine the installation locations for plumbing fixtures if it is planned to reconstruct the system or install additional equipment.
• We draw a diagram of the sewerage wiring in the apartment. We indicate on the diagram the location of the pipes, the distances between them, their sizes and the slopes of the sections.
• We perform a revision (inspection) of the old wiring and choose a method for dismantling it.
• We calculate the amount of materials and components needed for repairs. We purchase pipes, fittings, sealant, transition couplings from plastic to cast iron in accordance with the wiring diagram.
• We try on pipes with fittings in place.
• We install the system in sections in free space (on the floor).
• We dismantle old equipment.
• We install new pipelines and adjust them to the location.
• We carry out final installation of the system with sealing of joints.
• We install and connect plumbing fixtures.
• We connect the system to a ventilated riser.
• Once the sealant has hardened, check for leaks.

Now let's give some explanations of the individual stages of work.

Devices

We select places for devices based on the following:

The maximum length of the rigid connection to the siphon is 1.5 m; corrugated - 0.8 m. The minimum permissible angle in the horizontal plane is 120 degrees. It is highly desirable that there are no horizontal corners at all. You may have to re-determine the types of devices, so you should not purchase them in advance.

Scheme

If you just need to change old sewer to the new one, and the old one is generally in good working order, we draw the diagram according to the “as it was” principle. If there were problems with the previous sewer system, or a new one is being installed, we accurately maintain the slopes and diameters; in doubtful cases we make calculations. We give the finished diagram to specialists for verification: it’s much cheaper than drawing up a project with a call to the site, and it’s no good doing something for yourself.

The diagram should indicate:

1. The premises of the apartment in which the work will be carried out. If the pipe simply passes through the closet, then it is still considered that there will be work there.
2. For each room - the location of the system elements, indicating the dimensions and distances from the walls. The elements are not devices, it’s all the wiring. For a pipe passing through a closet, its parameters in the closet must be indicated, even if they are the same in the kitchen. If a solid pipe passes through a wall, then its total length should be indicated, as well as the length of each section.
3. All fittings and service elements: cleaning and inspection bends, etc.
4. Location of the central sewer riser.

An example of a sewer system in a private house:

Inspection and dismantling methods

The purpose of the audit is to determine how to dismantle the old wiring. Depending on its condition, disassembly is carried out in the following ways:

• In rare cases, when changing from plastic to plastic, sections of pipes are simply removed with a rocking motion.
• In the rarest cases, when cast iron pipes are free on all sides, the old pipeline is disassembled in the same way, but the sealing of the connections is first selected with a chisel or chisel.
• In other cases, the pipes are sawed in sections, as far as will fit, with a grinder with a diamond wheel, then a wedge or a powerful flat-head screwdriver is inserted into the cut, and hammered with a 1-2 kg hammer or sledgehammer until the pipe bursts along the bridge of the cut.

In any case, the pipeline to be dismantled is first disconnected from the riser, and disassembly begins from the far end.

Notes:

1. Breaking cast iron pipes with a heavy sledgehammer is only permissible on the first floor of a private house with a slab reinforced concrete floor floor.
2. With a corundum wheel for metal, work is difficult, the wheel wears out quickly, and in terms of cost, disassembling with a diamond wheel turns out to be only slightly more expensive. The diamond wheel will serve for a long time.

Materials

We calculate materials so that as few pipes as possible have to be cut. It is advisable to first find out from your seller what standard sizes he offers; The length of the sections is of particular importance. The ideal case is when only one pipe is cut. It is possible that the sewerage scheme will have to be modified to optimize costs for materials.

Trying on site

This operation has three goals:

• Find out whether there will be some kind of coupling on the wall, whether there will be “tails” of pipes behind the walls sufficient to fit into the couplings and mark the places of the couplings on the wall.
• Mark out the installation locations for supporting crutches or clips and determine their number.
• Identify places that are especially inconvenient for work, think through and verify the sequence of operations in them.

Rough editing

Preliminary installation of pipeline sections is carried out without sealing: we simply insert the ends of the pipes into the pipes with gaskets. We cut ONLY the free ends of the pipes to size with a margin of 10-15 mm; The mounting pipes must not be touched under any circumstances. We do the pruning hand hacksaw on metal in a miter box strictly at 90 degrees, cut off the burrs with a mounting knife and remove the chamfers. The “hairy” end of the pipe will become a source of constant blockages. We immediately turn the rotary tees/splitters to the desired position.

Dismantling old pipes

Dismantling methods have already been described. In general, dismantling is carried out as follows:

1. The sealing of pipes in the walls is knocked out or removed by others in an accessible way. The pipes must be “wall free” before dismantling.
2. We remove appliances from the kitchen to the bathroom, emptying the bathroom and kitchen.
3. We outline the installation locations of new devices (or old ones in a new place) with a pencil on the wall.
4. We warn the neighbors and shut off the water to the floors.
5. We remove the toilet with a flush tank and prepare the toilet for use, as described above.
6. To disconnect the distribution pipeline from the riser, we make TWO cuts 120-150 mm apart, and first drive the wedge into the cut FAR from the riser, and only after disconnecting the entire pipe do we break out the piece.
7. We drill along the contour or hammer with a chisel and a hammer no heavier than 200 g the seal of the pipe into the outlet of the riser, we take out (more precisely, we pick out, using our working ingenuity to the fullest extent) the rest of the pipe. Once again, don’t forget, cast iron is very fragile!
8. We clean the inside of the outlet pipe and toilet and plug it tightly with rags.
9. We supply water and inform the neighbors that they can use it for now.
10. Next, we dismantle the pipeline, starting from the far end.

Note: long cast iron pipe- a good resonator. If you violate the shutdown order, the neighbors will lose all goodwill towards you due to the roar and ringing, and the riser may burst, and not necessarily on you.

Video: example of dismantling cast iron pipes

Finish installation

Finish installation is carried out FROM THE Riser. The authors of the recommendations to conduct it from end to beginning only used plumbing. The main rule: the PREVIOUS pipe is adjusted to the size. If you break it, the entire wiring will go away... let's not get distracted by the professional jargon of plumbers. The operating procedure is as follows:

• In the outlet of the riser, according to the instructions, we install a plastic-cast iron transition collar.
• We insert the first section of pipe into the cuff and check whether its mounting pipe is in place.
• We cut it exactly to size, clean the cut, and chamfer it.
• We finally mount it using sealant.
• In the same way, we assemble the entire pipeline section by section to the end.
• If the riser is not expected to be replaced, we adjust the toilet pipe to the exact size, put it on the sealant and install the toilet back.
• Once the sealant has hardened, check for leaks and.

Notes:

1. Adapter cuffs come in different designs, so a description of the installation of specific samples is not given: each model is supplied with detailed instructions. To select, you need to know the connecting dimensions, and check the quality of rubber and plastic parts when purchasing.
2. All of these operations, if the riser outlets have been securely plugged, can be performed without turning off the water supply.
3. Plastic pipes are thin-walled and very slowly develop plaque from the inside. This is good, but the plastic sewer is very loud. Therefore, its sound insulation is necessary, but its description is the subject of a separate article.

Sealing connections

Sealing of joints is carried out as follows:

• The sealant used is neutral (non-acidic), silicone or polyurethane. For propylene, any is suitable; for PVC, only silicone.
• Each plastic gasket treated with a thin layer of sealant. Rubber gaskets are installed in couplings dry.
• The sealant is applied to the inner surface of the mounting pipe in a minimally thin layer and to the outer surface of the mating pipe with a layer of normal thickness, according to the instructions for the sealant.
• We insert the pipe into the coupling. The squeezed-out bead of sealant should have a diameter of approximately half the flange of the mounting pipe and be uniform in thickness. If there is something missing somewhere, we add a little.
• We wrap the joint with thin plastic film and use a spatula, brush or fabric swab to smooth the sealant through the film with slight pressure. A fillet should form at least 2/3 of the flange and the same amount along the pipe.
• Leave the film on the joint until the sealant hardens.

Checking for leaks

To check for leaks completely, so that the water goes into the overflow, fill the bathtub. Then we fully open all the taps, cold and hot, and the bath plug. Everything should flow out without leaving a drop on the floor.

To check for leaks, plug the toilet drain with a rubber plunger and fill the bucket to the top. We take out the plunger; When the water has gone, we look to see if a puddle has formed.

Replacing the riser

Replacing a sewer riser in an apartment is one of the operations that amateurs are strongly advised not to undertake. It is only permissible to change the riser yourself, where no one except you will get hurt. And you definitely need at least one helper. Experienced plumbers allow an assistant, who is already jokingly changing the wiring, to replace the riser for the first time only under strict personal supervision, especially since it is impossible to replace the riser alone.

If you do decide to do this, remember: all possible consequences are your full responsibility.

To replace the riser you will need the following:

1. Rubber transition cuffs plastic/cast iron and cast iron/plastic.
2. Plastic cross with diameters of 110 mm/110 mm/110 mm/50 mm, having a 50 mm bend in the desired direction (right or left).
3. Two pipes with a diameter of 110 mm of the required length.
4. Compensator 110 mm for plastic pipes. Without it, it will not be possible to assemble the riser, since the riser does not have a free end.
5. Metal clamps with studs or crutches for attaching the riser to the wall.
6. 2 plastic 45 degree swivel elbows for leveling or moving the riser to the side.
7. Plastic insert with a cleaning hatch for the riser made of propylene pipes. PVC pipes for a riser are applicable on the top floor or in a private house.

The procedure for replacing the riser is as follows:

• We strengthen the old riser from above, as described above.
• We turn off the water and warn the neighbors.
• In the middle of the old riser we make two cuts, as when disconnecting the wiring from it.
• Insert TWO wedges or screwdrivers into the BOTTOM cut at 45 degrees on both sides from the middle.
• By beating one by one, we achieve chipping along the lower bridge. This operation requires a lot of experience and skill: if it is performed incorrectly, the entire column of pipes can collapse either towards you or downwards from you.
• We rearrange the wedges into the upper cut and break off the cut piece.
• An assistant (preferably two) hold the upper part of the pipe, and you use a chisel or chisel to remove as much of the seal as possible from the upper joint.
• Carefully, but shaking with force, loosen the upper joint and remove the pipe. This operation is no less important than cutting out the middle.
• We select the seal of the lower joint (after the cross-splitter) and just as carefully and forcefully rock and remove the lower pipe with the same cross. This stage is even more responsible.
• We assemble the new riser roughly according to the diagram, from top to bottom: pipe - adjusting bend - compensator - cleaning - adjusting bend - pipe - cross. We mate the top and bottom of the new riser to the cast iron with appropriate cuffs.
• During the rough assembly process, we adjust the lower pipe to exactly the right size.
• We do the final assembly using sealant, connect the wiring, and install the toilet.
• We supply water and notify neighbors.
• We secure the riser with clamps on studs or crutches in at least four points: a third of the length of the pipe from the upper and lower ends and at each adjusting bend.

Notes:

1. Under no circumstances should you hammer on old pipes or pull them to loosen them. When loosening, you need to monitor the end of the pipe in the coupling and adjust your movements to the state of the seal. Just rocking it back and forth won't keep it loose forever.
2. Particular care and attention must be exercised with intelligence when loosening the down tube. If it turns out of the crosspiece, then it is extremely difficult to loosen and remove the latter without already having a long lever, and completely impossible for a beginner. You will have to call on a specialist for help and prepare to patiently listen to everything that he deems necessary to say to you. And pay as much as he orders: not every plumber will undertake such work.