Swedish brick heating stove. Swede stove with fireplace: installation instructions, foundation construction and design characteristics

Swedish stove

Many of us have often wondered why, when modern homes are equipped with a variety of types of heating equipment, stoves are increasingly being installed in homes? Apparently because the stove is both a work of art, a way to heat your home, and an important aesthetic detail of your home, not to mention the fact that the stove will cook dinner and dry your laundry.

Today we will look at a variant of the stove, which is popularly called “Swedish”. Some people said that the name of this stove was given back during the Battle of Poltava by Swedes captured by Russian troops. But the facts indicate that the history of this furnace goes back to the middle of the 18th century, and the initiator of its creation was the Swedish king himself, who attracted the best minds of his country to the work, including mathematicians and physicists.

And these learned people calculated so accurately that the “Swedish” is still alive and thriving, and in popularity is only slightly inferior to the world-famous one. Moreover, if we compare them, the advantage of the “Swedish” will be undeniable in the compactness of the structure, and in terms of efficiency it will be inferior only slightly.

Why did the Swedes start developing the stove? After all, it already existed and was popular? The fact is that the climate in Sweden is somewhat harsher than that of their neighbors, and by that time the forests had already thinned out quite a bit. There was no space for building large houses, so a stove with small dimensions and dimensions with high efficiency was needed.

Furnace design features

The Russian stove took up too much space and took a very long time to heat up. Another feature of the Swedish stove was the use of the first heat: gases from fuel combustion were directed downwards, heating the room from below, and the installed metal oven, quickly heating up, completed the heating process in a short time.

Shvedka stove

A niche for drying clothes made it possible to quickly dry a wet hunting and fishing suit and prepare for new trips. Some of the disadvantages of the “Swedish” included the fact that the vertical channels unevenly distributed heat in the room, but less soot accumulated in them, and the stove had to be cleaned less often.

Rich owners could afford to install horizontal ducts; the stove heated the house better, but was cleaned noticeably more often. The stove was designed in such a way that, despite its small size, it heated the entire room due to proper installation in the house.

Part of the stove with a firebox and oven was located in the kitchen, and the back side opened into the living room; it was finished with tiles and decorated with various types of additions. In this part of the stove there was a couch or even a whole bed raised above the floor, a fireplace was installed, etc.

The Swedish oven has a very high level of heat output. If we compare it in these parameters with a Dutch oven, then with fewer fireboxes per day, the power of the “Swede” turned out to be a third higher.

The level of heat transfer of a Russian stove is higher, but, as already mentioned, it takes a long time to heat up and cools down relatively quickly. Unlike the Russian beauty, the “Swedish” cannot be assembled from trash and waste; all building materials must be of high quality, which is why the “Swedish” is considered the most fastidious of the.

The Swedish stove is well suited for small buildings of 30-50 sq.m. It would be ideal if it was located in the center of the house. The length of the stove is about 130 cm, the width is about 1 meter, the height corresponds to the height of the house if the stove is installed up to the ceiling. The small cost of usable space (for comparison, the length of a Russian stove is up to 4 meters) makes the Swede popular even today.

Using a Swedish oven

A Swedish oven always performs at least 2 functions:

- heating
- cooking room

The size of the firebox is 35-50 cm, the size of the stove is 41-71 cm. If you, for example, want to change the size of the firebox, then you will have to recalculate all other parameters of the stove. It is not for nothing that the best mathematicians of past times calculated their brainchild with meticulous accuracy.

Before choosing a specific stove model, think about what its main function will be; a lot depends on this. If, for example, your stove will only be a heating and cooking structure, then it can be placed in the kitchen and made small.

If the task is to heat the whole house, then choose a place from where the heat will freely spread throughout the house. Whatever stove model you prefer, work begins with building a foundation to fit the size of the stove.

How to assemble a Swedish oven with your own hands

The best, almost ideal option is when the foundation of the stove is laid during the construction of the house, but this rarely happens, so we will consider the option of installing the foundation for the Swedish stove when the house has already been built.

The main condition here is the separation of the stove foundation from the base of the house. First, markings are made, then, using those markings, a part of the required size is cut out on the floor covering and recesses are dug down to the ground. Please note that the cut out part of the floor should be 10-15 cm larger than the calculated parameters of the stove base.

Next, a pit is dug, the bottom of which is filled with a mixture of sand and water, the width of the sand layer is 10-20 cm. The surface is carefully leveled and compacted. The next stage is filling with a layer of crushed stone (15-17 cm), compacting and installing formwork, usually from low-grade boards.

A polyethylene film is placed on top, a concrete solution (15 cm) is poured onto it, the reinforcement laid on top of the solution is secured, pressed into this solution and filled with cement solution.

Shvedka heating and cooking stove

Material for assembling a Swedish stove with an oven

Before you start arranging, let me remind you of the high quality of building materials and quantity. So, we need to have:

1) red brick - 717 pieces (plus 15 in stock);
2) silicate or fireclay bricks for masonry of the firebox - 154 pcs;
3) clay, sand, cement;
4) steel wire (0.4-0.5 cm);
5) cord and sheet of asbestos;
6) steel corner 50-50-5-1020 - 2 pcs;
7) steel strips for masonry above the slab;
8) grate 20-30 cm - 1 piece;
9) oven-45-36-30 cm - 1 piece;
10) door for the firebox 21 -25 cm - 1 piece;
11) valves - 3 pieces 13-25 cm;
12) hob 41-71 cm - 1 piece;
13) fireplace grate;
14) 2 metal sheets for flooring in front of the firebox.

The protrusion for the fireplace is made 15 cm in size. Before you start laying, lay a piece of roofing felt on the foundation and mark the base of the stove on it.

Laying and arrangement of the Swedish stove

The 1st row is laid very evenly and carefully, since the evenness and strength of the entire structure depends on this; it is laid from a continuous layer of bricks;

The 2nd row also consists of bricks, but where space is allocated for the firebox, fireclay brick is used. On top of the 2nd row, fireplace grate holders are installed by welding;

3rd row - in this row the place for the blower, oven and chimney is determined, and on the other side there is a place for the fireplace insert;

4th row - the same as 3rd, but the brick is installed “under dressing”;

5th row - preparing a place for the firebox and grate, as well as installing the oven and rewinding it with asbestos rope;

Row 6 - installation of the firebox door, the walls between the firebox and the oven are laid with bricks “on edge”, in the same row the gap for the oven is closed and a vertical channel is made;

Row 7 - the same as 6, but metal strips are installed on top to install the next rows of bricks;

8th row - installing the oven;

9 row - 2 metal strips are installed above the oven for laying the top row;

10th row - preparing the place for installing the stove. The edges above the oven firebox doors are secured using a corner, in the 10th row the hob and door for cleaning the ducts are installed;

Arrangement of the Shvedka stove

12 -13 rows are laid according to the pattern;

14 row - a shelf is formed for, a projection of bricks is made on the side and front by 2.5 cm;

15 row - the fireplace shelf expands, the brick extends another 2.5 cm;

Row 16 - installation of floors and corners for the floor niche;

17-18 row according to the pattern;

19 row - the beginning of the formation of the hole for the chimney, the brick is cut off on both sides;

Row 20 is performed according to the scheme;

Row 21 - installing the door on the cleaning channel;

Row 22 - installing another door on the cleaning channel;

23 row - according to the diagram;

Row 24 - installing a damper on the fireplace chimney;

Row 25 - installation of the second damper on the fireplace chimney;

Row 26 - installing another door on the cleaning channel and connecting the vertical channel with the gas outlet channel;

27-28 rows according to the pattern;

Rows 29-30 - closing the upper part of the oven;

31 row - installation of the valve;

Row 32 - laying out a chimney pipe half a brick wide, with a height depending on the height of the stove.
Watch a video about bake a swede

A Swedish stove is a warm, cozy home and delicious food. Significant advantages of the stove: small area, less wood consumption, combination of a heating stove and cooking capabilities. We have prepared step-by-step instructions for you with drawings and order so that you can fold it yourself.

Foundation - monolithic concrete

Materials

Concrete grade B15 (M200) is suitable for the foundation for the furnace. To prepare such concrete, the components are taken in the following proportion: cement - 1 part, crushed stone - 4 parts, sand - 2 parts.

Cement must be taken at least M400. The coarse aggregate can be crushed stone or gravel, the particle size of which does not exceed 30 mm. Sand with impurities of no more than 10% is suitable for concrete work. These include clay, mica, organic origin and dust particles. Impurities in coarse aggregate should be less than 2%.

The required materials for the foundation can be calculated based on the consumption per 1 m 3 of ready-made concrete:

1. Cement M400 - 325 kg/m3.
2. Sand - 1300 kg/m3.
3. Gravel (crushed stone) - 1300 kg/m3.
4. Water - 205 l/m3.

Tools

To carry out concrete work, you must have a tool with which:

• lay the concrete mixture (shovel, trowel);
• compact (tampers, probe);
• smooth (ironing board, trowel, grout, iron, corner).

1 - dipstick; 2 — narrow tamper; 3 - round tamper; 4 — square tamper; 5 - ironing board; 6 - scraper; 7 - half-grater; 8 — ironing board

Sequence of concreting

It is very important to determine the depth to which you need to lay the foundation for the stove. This depends on the ability of the soil to resist loads on it (bearing capacity). There are quite a lot of soils with weak bearing capacity. Under the influence of loads, they can change their original structure (subsiding loess and containing soluble salts, swelling clay, of biological origin, as well as water-saturated, increasing in volume in winter).

So, for example, for fine (silty) sands, sandy loams, loams and clays, in which groundwater is located above the depth of soil freezing, the bottom of the foundation is assigned below this level. The depth of freezing is determined based on the results of long-term observations.

1 - sand cushion; 2 - gravel; 3 — freezing depth; 4 - monolithic foundation; 5 - waterproofing; 6 — floor level; 7 - brickwork

This is the case if the house may not be heated in winter. If the house is heated throughout the winter, then the base of the foundation should be at a depth of more than 50 cm from the layout of the land plot.

In dense soils with good bearing capacity, the foundation can be concreted without formwork. Then a hole is dug exactly according to the size of the foundation. If the soil crumbles, formwork is necessary. It is made from coniferous or deciduous wood, which is not subject to warping. The boards are taken with a thickness of at least 19 mm and a moisture content of no more than 25%.

At the bottom of the hole under the foundation, a cushion at least 15-20 cm thick is made of sand and gravel, which is compacted.

When laying the concrete mixture, be sure to tamp or compact it to release any air bubbles that appear in it. This increases the density of concrete, and therefore strength.

Caring for freshly laid concrete consists of maintaining the required temperature and humidity. This is protection from rapid drying of the concrete surface in windy, hot weather using some kind of wet covering (burlap, tarpaulin, wet sawdust or sand).

Protection of fresh concrete from excessive moisture, drying, and cooling is carried out for one to two weeks in accordance with the outside air temperature. The most important thing is that the concrete gains at least half of its full strength.

The formwork can be removed only when sufficient concrete strength (50%) has been achieved. Most often, this occurs no earlier than 7-14 days at temperatures from +5 to +20 °C. The higher the temperature, the faster the strength gains.

Waterproofing (2 layers of roofing material) is placed on top of the hardened concrete. The size of the foundation should be taken 100 mm larger at each edge of the furnace.

Sequence of construction of a Swedish-type furnace

Materials

For stove masonry, you need a brick that will withstand high temperatures. These include ordinary clay bricks (GOST 390-96) and refractory fireclay bricks (GOST 530-2012).

Important! For kiln work, the use of silicate, hollow, unburnt, or cracked bricks is unacceptable.

In total, for a Swedish-type stove, excluding pipes, you need:

1. Clay bricks - 505 pcs.
2. Fireproof bricks - 25 pcs.

The furnace can be laid using clay-sand mortar, or a ready-made fire-resistant mortar for furnace work. Today, stores offer several types of such solutions.

A clay-sand solution can be prepared based on the following proportion for clay of different fat contents:

1. Oily clay (2-4% sand) - 1 part clay: 2.5 parts sand.
2. Medium clay (15% sand) - 1 part clay: 1.5 parts sand.
3. Skinny clay (30% sand) - 1:1.

To prepare the solution, the clay is first soaked for 24 hours, then sand is gradually added to it in portions, constantly stirring until smooth. Water is also added in portions. Finally, you need to add water immediately before work. The clay solution should slide off the shovel easily, without spreading.

Furnace appliances

1. Blower door (140x140 mm) - 1 pc.
2. Fire door (210x250 mm) - 1 pc.
3. Cleaning door - 5 pcs.
4. Gate valve with hole (120x210 mm) - 1 pc.
5. Oven (300x365x450 mm) - 1 pc.
6. Plate (410x710 mm) - 1 pc.
7. Grate – 1 pc.
8. Metal sheet (750x500 mm) - 1 pc.

The oven can be made from sheet steel by welding. For protection, the outer surface is coated with fire-resistant enamels or varnishes.

Directly under the firebox a metal sheet (750x500 mm) is laid on asbestos cement.

Tools for laying a furnace

1 - pickaxe; 2 - various trowels; 3 - jointing; 4 — level; 5 - square; 6 — mallet; 7 - plumb line

The firebox and smoke circulation (chimney) are the main parts of the stove body. Fuel is burned in the firebox. Smoke circulation increases the internal surface of the stove, accumulating heat in its mass, and transferring it to the heated room.

External view of the oven: 1 - cleaning doors; 2 — ash door; 3 - combustion door; 4 — oven; 5 - hob; 6 - valve

A grate is installed in the bottom of the firebox to provide air access to the fire. To ensure a normal combustion process, the draft in the furnace is regulated by a certain position of the combustion and ash doors. The heat output of the Shvedka stove in question is 3200 kcal/hour. It includes a cooking chamber and an oven.

It is necessary to begin furnace work only if there is a covering over the intended location of the furnace, at least temporarily. It is advisable to first make a selection of bricks for each row, combing them and tying them dry.

Orders

Before starting masonry, it is necessary to check all the dimensions of the foundation and determine the orientation of the furnace, including where the pipe will pass through the ceiling, as well as the roof. Immediately before work, ordinary clay bricks are soaked for 2 minutes, and fireclay bricks are only rinsed.

The first and second rows are laid with seams bandaged at least 1/2 brick. For masonry with ordinary clay bricks, a joint of less than 5 mm is required. It is allowed in the case of using 3/4 bricks to bandage 1/4 bricks.

Important! The masonry must be carried out while maintaining verticality along the plumb line and horizontality along the level of all seams.

The third and fourth rows form the ash chamber. There are also 3 cleaning doors installed here. They are inserted with a gap of 3-5 mm directly during masonry work. The gap is filled with asbestos cord. The top of the doors should be level with the horizontal joint of the masonry.

In the fifth row, the firebox is laid out with refractory bricks, the thickness of the seam for which should not be more than 3 mm. A grate is also installed here with a gap of 3-5 mm. The grate openings are directed along the firebox. The gap is filled with sand or ash. An oven is also installed in this row. The formation of chimneys begins at the rear of the furnace.

Important! It is not allowed to bind refractory and clay bricks, since they have different expansion rates under the influence of temperature and can contribute to the formation of cracks.

The sixth, seventh, eighth, ninth rows form the combustion chamber. The combustion chamber door is installed with a gap (3-5 mm) filled with asbestos cord. The wire screwed to the door is embedded in the brickwork. Fireclay bricks are placed on edge between the furnace and oven.

The tenth row involves covering the oven. The partition between the oven and the furnace is raised by 1-2 cm. Next, a layer of clay-sand mortar is laid on the oven to the level of the partition. A corner of 1000x40x40 mm is placed on the front side under the slab.

Eleventh row. The hob is laid and then smoke channels are formed.

Twelfth to sixteenth rows. The cooking chamber and chimney channels are formed, taking into account the ligation of the seams.

Seventeenth, eighteenth rows. To cover the cooking chamber, bricks are placed on strip steel and corners. A wire is screwed to them and embedded in the masonry.

Two cleaning doors are installed in the nineteenth and twentieth rows.

The twenty-first to twenty-eighth rows form chimneys according to the order. In the twenty-seventh row, a valve is also installed with a gap (3-5 mm) and sealed with an asbestos cord.

In the twenty-ninth row, the stove masonry is expanded by 5 cm for the cornice. All channels are blocked, except for the pipe.

The thirtieth row suggests an expansion of another 5 cm.

Thirty-first row. The furnace size is reduced to the original size.

Features of pipe laying

Next, a pipe the size of five bricks is laid. Three rows up to the ceiling, pipe fluffing begins to protect the wooden floor structures from hot gases. The thickness of the pipe in this place should be 1.5 bricks. They also increase the thickness of the pipe when passing through wooden roof structures. A metal cap is installed on top of the pipe. The entire outer part of the pipe is laid using cement-sand masonry mortar.

The height of the pipe above the roof is laid out according to the diagram. To increase traction, the height is related to the distance from the roof ridge.

The oven will fill your beloved home with warmth, comfort and kindness!

Do you need a relatively inexpensive and easy-to-install heating stove for your cottage or small home? At one time I looked through many options and couldn’t find anything better than a Swedish oven. Next, I will tell you in detail how to independently assemble such a structure from the foundation to the pipe.

Illustration	Short description
	Dutch. The classic “Dutch” is intended exclusively for heating the house. Its main advantages are its compactness and relatively low price. But since the Dutch oven does not have a frying surface, people do not favor these stoves. In addition, the efficiency of the Dutch is about a third lower than that of the Swedes.
	Muscovite. This model is considered an improved version of the Swede. With the same dimensions, it is more practical. On the left is a diagram of a Muscovite: Ash pit or “blower”; Soot cleaning hatch; Grate; Firebox; Hob; Closing doors under the hob (installed upon request); Ventilation ducts; Cleaning hatch; Water heating tank; Oven; “Winter” valve; “Summer” valve; Cleaning hatch; Central valve. It is good in operation even for a small house, up to 50 m2 is perfect, but for an amateur it is almost impossible to fold a Muscovite with his own hands.
	Swede with a bed. To some extent, this model can be called a lightweight version of the classic Russian stove, because a stove bench is not just a brick extension, but a plane with full-fledged gentle heating. This Swedish stove is convenient to use, but the design has several serious disadvantages: Large mass; A stove with a stove bench requires a lot of space; For an amateur, the order is quite complicated.
	Swede stove with fireplace. A very convenient option with high efficiency. Typically, this design is built between the living room and the kitchen. Everything about this stove is good, but, as in the two previous options, putting it together yourself is quite problematic.
	Oven K.Ya. Buslaeva. This heating and cooking stove can claim to be a classic option more than others. With standard dimensions of 1020x770x2010 mm, it can produce up to 3600 kcal/hour, for example, for a Dutch oven a maximum of 2600 kcal/hour. It is the stove K.Ya. Buslaeva and models close to her are best suited for amateurs.

How to fold a Swedish oven yourself

Any such work requires a certain procedure, in particular this includes:

• Selection of tools;
• Selecting a specific model;
• Purchase of material;
• Laying the foundation;
• Construction of the furnace itself and its commissioning.

Tools and materials

Mandatory tools you will need:

• Shovels- bayonet and shovel;
• Mixing attachment for an electric drill;
• Trough for mixing the solution;
• Master OK;
• Hammers- rubber mallet and mason's hammer;
• Plastering rule length of at least 1.5 m;
• Joining;
• Hydraulic level;
• Building level(preferably with magnets);
• Plumb;
• Roulette;
• Bulgarian with circles under iron and stone;
• Tile cutter- electric semi-professional (the price for it starts from about 3,000 rubles).

Keep in mind that it will be very difficult to do without a tile cutter. Fireclay refractory and red solid molded bricks are quite strong materials. During the construction process you will have to make up to 200 cuts, even a good grinder is not designed for such a volume, you can simply “ruin” it.

As for the model, a simple Swedish heating and cooking stove with 1 oven and 1 hob is best suited for an amateur. Leave fireplaces, sun loungers and other amenities to the professionals.

Indicative list of materials:

• Red whole-molded fired brick - 550 pcs;
• Fireclay bricks - 70 pcs;

The amount of brick is indicated with a small margin of 5–7%; believe me, a novice stove maker will definitely ruin some of the bricks.

• Door for the firebox - 1 piece;
• Door for ash pan - 1 piece;
• Grate - 1 piece;
• Doors for cleaning channels - 3 pcs;
• Cast iron hob with round burners 410x710 mm - 1 piece;
• Annealed steel wire with a cross section of 3–4 mm or perforated metal tape (for securing the doors);
• Corner 50x50 mm - 7 m;
• Steel strip 50x5 mm - 2 m;
• Oven 450x360x300 mm - 1 piece;
• Valves for regulating flue gases - 3 pcs;
• Masonry mixture - for masonry of the firebox we use the SHA-28 mortar, everything else is laid out on the basis of clay-fireclay oven mortar (it is at least a third cheaper).

Don’t even try to make mortar for laying stoves with your own hands; an amateur stove maker cannot do it. Knowing the proportions is not enough; you also need to understand the types of clay and be able to correctly determine its fat content. Make a mistake once, and then have to redo the whole job.

Laying the foundation

We're done with the preparation, now let's talk about how to make a Swedish oven with a stove with your own hands. Under any brick stove you need to pour a foundation, and this structure is done separately. The distance from the stove foundation to the foundation of the house must be at least 100 mm.

Illustrations	Work order
	Scheme. On the left is a classic diagram of laying a furnace foundation. The foundation should be laid just below the freezing point of the soil. But if the house stands on a solid strip foundation and the stove is located in the center of the building, then its foundation can be laid to a depth of 70–80 cm. The monolith should be slightly larger than the stove; a 100–150 mm belt should be left around the perimeter.
	Arrangement of the pillow. The bottom cushion for the foundation can be made of large or medium crushed stone, as in the photo. Mix sand with gravel (fine crushed stone); Pour the mixture into the pit and tamp it well, periodically watering it with water; Cushion thickness 150–200 mm; Further from the ground, to the level of the finished floor, wooden formwork is placed; After that, everything inside, from the sand and gravel cushion to the top, is covered with waterproofing (roofing felt or thick polyethylene 200 microns).
	Installation of reinforcement cage. We knit the reinforcement cage from a rod 10–12 mm thick. The size of the cells in the reinforcement cage is about 150 mm; it rises almost to the very top.
	Pouring concrete. The monolith under the furnace must be poured in 2 steps: First, the main part of the monolith is poured; it is made from the classic one with a ratio of 1: 3: 4 (M500 cement/quarry sand/gravel or medium crushed stone). This layer does not reach the edge 100–150 mm; Next, you need to strengthen the reinforcing cage from above and fill the remaining 100–150 mm with cement-sand mortar in the proportion: 1 part cement to 3 parts sand.
	Leveling the screed. The formwork should be made from planed boards and the top edge should be set strictly horizontally using a level. After pouring the cement-sand mortar, you simply take a plaster rule and use it to level the surface under the stove, as shown in the diagram.
	Aging of concrete. Concrete matures for 28 days and to build a furnace it is advisable to wait this entire period; if you are in a big hurry, you can start construction in 3 weeks, but not earlier. In the first week, the monolith should be regularly watered and covered with polyethylene so that it dries out less.

How to install a Swedish stove

Illustrations	Work order
	Waterproofing. Waterproofing in 2 layers is laid on the concrete monolith. Any membrane will do here; the most affordable and proven option is roofing felt.
	Furnace masonry. The first 2 bottom rows are made solid, the main thing here is to respect the dimensions and maintain the horizon. If the foundation plane is not level, then these two rows can correct the flaws and level the horizon of the furnace.
	3rd row. From the third row of the furnace masonry we already form the ash chamber (1), the lower heating chamber (2) and the smoke exhaust vertical channels (1, 2, 3) Moreover, channels 2 and 3 are combined. Holes are left on the sides of the chambers and channels for the installation of cleaning hatches. Please note - we place 4 bricks in this row on the edge and at the entrance to 1 channel, a quarter of the fireclay brick is placed.
	Bookmarking the doors. At the same stage, the lower doors are laid. All doors have holes along the edges; burnt steel wire is tied to them and embedded in the masonry.
	4–5 rows. In the 4th row we simply continue laying. In the 5th row we make ceilings for all the lower doors and lay them “under” (the bottom) of the combustion chamber with fireclay bricks. First, you need to select a groove in the refractory bricks for installing the grate. Groove depth 20–30 mm.
	6 row. In this row, the walls of the firebox, the doors of the firebox and the base for the oven are laid. The walls of the firebox are lined with fireclay bricks placed on edge. A wall is laid between the firebox and the oven. Plus, in row 6, a demarcation jumper is installed between channels 2 and 3.
	7-8 rows. Row 7 is a continuation of row 6. In the 8th row of fireclay bricks, a jumper is installed between the first ventilation duct and the space for the oven.
	9 row. Here we continue everything the same, only we put a cover on the firebox door.
	10 row. In this row we cover the oven and cut out a seat for the hob in the brick. Please note: a window is left between the firebox and the oven; at this level they must communicate.
	Hob installation. The arrow shows the place that is not covered with refractory bricks, where a kind of window is obtained. The slab must be “planted” not just on the mortar, but also a 5 mm thick basalt cardboard gasket must be placed in the groove; accordingly, when cutting the groove, these 5 mm must be taken into account.
	Cooking chamber. The cooking chamber is the niche above the hob. In the 11th row we install the base of the cooking chamber and lay in the window near the stove that we have left. At the same time, we place the red brick across.
	From rows 12 to 16 we lay out the cooking chamber.
	Corners. After finishing the laying of the 16th row, we install 4 corners above the cooking chamber. Two singles on the edges, towards each other and 1 paired in the center.
	Covering the cooking chamber. Rows 17 and 18 are laid the same way. This is the arch of the cooking chamber, but on the left in the far corner of the arch there is a steam exhaust duct the size of half a brick. On top of the 18th row, another metal corner is installed along the outer edge.
	Laying out the dryers. The next 4 rows (from 19 to 22) are laid out exactly the same, these will be dryers. After the 22nd row, we cover the leftmost dryer with a metal sheet; the sheet extends 20–30 mm onto the edges of the brick.
	23 row. In row 23, we need to install an adjustable valve on the steam exhaust duct. To do this, we pre-cut a niche in the brick according to the dimensions of the valve; it should be a couple of millimeters larger than the valve itself.
	24 row. This row covers the valve and almost completely repeats the previous one. The only difference is that we no longer make a jumper between the first and second smoke exhaust channels.
	25 row. In this row, the steam exhaust duct is connected to the third smoke exhaust duct.
	Rows 26–27. They fit exactly the same. Once complete, they are fitted with an outer corner and a pair of metal strips above the large right-hand drying chamber.
	Laying sheets under the ceiling. We need the corner and strips as stiffening ribs for the top metal sheet. This sheet covers almost the entire plane, leaving only the third smoke exhaust channel free. The minimum sheet thickness is 2 mm, but it is better to take a sheet with a thickness of 3 to 5 mm.
	Lay out the pediment. The next 2 rows are mounted in the same way, but each of them protrudes 25 mm beyond the perimeter of the stove.
	Next row We return it to its place, that is, we lay it out according to traditional dimensions. As a result, we got a beautiful antique pediment.
	Pipe laying. In the first row of the chimney, we again make a cutout for the valve and insert the valve.
	Second row of pipe. Then the pipe is laid out exactly to the very end, its height varies according to location.

Firing the furnace

After completion of construction, the structure must be allowed to dry “cold” - do not touch it for 2 weeks. It is best to complete construction in the summer, so it will dry out faster.

Commissioning takes 10–12 days:

1. During the first 3 days, 3–4 kg of straw or hay is burned in the oven;
2. Then for 2 days we heat it with straw and wood chips, take the same amount of straw and about 2k g of wood chips;
3. Then we heat it with dry wood for a couple more days, about 3–5 kg per day;
4. The next 3-4 days progress, the stove is heated with wood and coal, and it needs to be heated 2-3 times a day;
5. After a couple of weeks, we continuously heat the stove all day long with dry aspen wood, coal or coke.

If the stove has been standing all winter in a cold room, then it also needs to be started carefully in 2 stages:

1. First you need to open the hatch below the pipe and put crumpled newspaper there, at the same time we put firewood in the firebox. After that, set fire to the newspaper and wait a couple of minutes;
2. After a couple of minutes, while the newspaper is still burning, we set fire to the wood in the firebox. The newspaper will give the initial movement and start the draft, as a result the firewood should light up normally.

Principle of operation

The high efficiency of the Swede is due to the proper distribution of flue gases:

• From the firebox, gases pass under the hob and enter the oven compartment;
• Having gone around the oven, the gases enter the lower part of the first smoke exhaust channel, which is located on the back side;
• Then the flue gases move like a snake, that is, through the second intermediate channel they enter the third and go into. Thus, almost all the heat remains in the house.

Conclusion

A Swedish stove with oven and stove represents the presence of warmth and delicious food in the house. The important advantages of the oven include: small footprint, minimal fuel consumption, as well as the ability to simultaneously heat and prepare culinary products. Below is information that will help our readers lay out such a stove with their own hands.

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Operating principle of the furnace

An important distinguishing feature of the “Swedish” is maximum heat. If we compare its design with channel variations, there the heat is released through a pipe and heats the combined channels, and in the “Shvedka” the cooking plate and oven are heated at the same time.

In a vertically built oven, the channel openings are located behind the main device. Unlike other varieties, there is no overheating of the lower part in the furnace and the amount of soot is noticeably reduced.

The oven compartment in a buffet oven serves as heating. The main heat is concentrated in this part. The heating wave spreads in just 2-3 minutes from the floor to the very top.

The schematic designation can be seen in the figure below:

Construction Materials

If we take as a basis the structure of a “Swedge” of a traditional type with a power of 3.2 kW (for an area measuring 40 sq.m., and if we rely on decent insulation, its size will increase to 50 sq.m.).

To work, you need to purchase the following materials:

• fireclay bricks (ША-8) in the amount of 33 pieces;
• solid ceramic bricks - 552 pieces;
• oven device with dimensions 45x25x29 centimeters;
• grate format - 20x30 centimeters;
• cast iron cooking panel - 410x710 millimeters;
• fuel door - 21x25 centimeters;
• rubber door (in 3 copies) - 14x14 centimeters;
• ash pan barrier - 14x25 centimeters;
• chimney valve - 25x13 centimeters;
• damper for hood - 13x13 centimeters;

In order to form a niche, you need a steel equilateral corner with a width of 4.5 centimeters and a tire 5x0.5 centimeters.

Tools

• Shovels of bayonet and scoop types;
• Container for preparing the solution;
• Electric drill and mixing attachment;
• Mason's hammer and rubber mallet;
• Master OK;
• Joining;
• Construction level (preferably using magnets);
• Plaster rule measuring 1.5 meters in length;
• Plumb;
• Grinder for iron and stone;
• Yardstick;
• Construction stapler;
• electric tile cutter (it is possible to use a semi-professional device).

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

Before you begin construction, you should carefully think through the design of the future device, choose the location wisely and prepare a foundation that will allow the structure to last for many years.

Selecting a location

The location of the “Shvedka” depends on a number of conventions:

• room area;
• roof features;
• location of doors and other objects in the room (there must be no such objects near the future device).

In addition to choosing a location from an aesthetic point of view, you should think in advance about how the chimney channel will go.

IMPORTANT: Before starting laying, it is necessary to lay out the stove without mortar. This allows you to once again evaluate whether the amount of building materials has been thought out correctly and to foresee possible difficulties that may arise during the work process.

Foundation arrangement

Regardless of the type and design differences of the furnace, the main and main stage on which the correct functioning and long service life depends - correctly installed according to all standards.

The best option involves laying the foundation for the Shvedka during the construction of the house itself. However, most often the owners decide to build a stove in an entire building. In this situation, it is necessary to separate the foundation for the furnace from the main one. If the foundation of the house has shrinked, further construction will be problematic.

To arrange the foundation, it is necessary to provide a deepening of up to 80 centimeters (if the construction of the stove takes place in a previously built house with a wooden floor). The process consists of the following steps:

• The surface is preliminarily marked with a marker. The length and width will be required to plan the location of the future building. To each of these parameters you should add 10 centimeters. It is advisable to draw lines for a visual representation.
• Using a grinder, a hole is cut out on the floor according to the markings.
• Next, you need to mark the soil located under the floor and build a foundation.
  1. To do this, dig a hole (based on the markings made) using a bayonet shovel.
  2. The bottom should be compacted and covered with sand.
  3. It is necessary to pour a bucket of plain water evenly into the resulting hole and tamp the sand again. The thickness of the sand layer should not be less than 15 centimeters (if you take into account the hole about 80 centimeters deep). As the pit depth increases, the sand layer should be increased proportionally.
  4. After the sand, pour a 10-centimeter layer of crushed stone and compact it with a bayonet shovel.
• When all the preliminary steps have been completed, it is necessary to prepare wooden formwork for the foundation. For its construction, you can take previously used boards. A layer of polyethylene or roofing felt should be laid and secured around the perimeter.
• The base for the stove is built as follows:
  1. The formwork is raised by an amount equal to 1 brick above the base of the floor.
  2. The solution for building the foundation is being prepared. It is advisable to arm yourself with crushed stone, sand and cement for these purposes. Afterwards, the hole is filled to 15 centimeters with the solution.
  3. The structure should be strengthened with a layer of reinforcement, after installing which the solution should be refilled.
  4. Next, prepare a solution of a different consistency to fill the remaining area of ​​the pit. Crushed stone (used in larger sizes), as well as cement mortar and sand. All components should be passed through a construction mixer. This will allow you to get a more reliable consistency.
  5. The dug hole is filled with solution to the height of the soil, leveled and left for several hours to set. Afterwards, another layer of reinforcement is laid and they wait another 60 minutes, during which a slight shrinkage occurs.
• To reinforce the foundation you need:
  1. Pour the remaining mortar over the reinforcement until the boundaries of the formwork are covered. Level the mortar with a shovel, and use a level to check the foundation for errors and, if necessary, level it again and leave the resulting structure for 30 days.
  2. After the time specified above, you should make sure that the solution has completely hardened and remove the formwork that rises above the floor surface.
• At the last stage of preparing the base, it is important to create waterproofing. According to the size of the foundation, you will need several layers of roofing felt glued together (or less expensive basalt cardboard in 3 layers, taking into account the 5 mm thickness). This material is laid on a leveled foundation. After all the preliminary steps described above, you can begin laying out the oven itself. First, on the waterproofing layer, it is necessary to mark the first masonry row, the evenness of which will determine the structural integrity of the entire structure.

Lay out the oven

When building a Swedish stove with an oven with your own hands, the order designed for laying out with your own hands, which is presented below, will help:

Description of order with photo:

1. The first 2 rows are laid out completely. This is the reference point for the main design. Use measuring tools and observe angles.
   
   
2. The third and fourth rows serve to build an ash chamber designed to accumulate ash. During laying, 3 doors are installed, which can be secured with metal wire hidden under the solution.
   
   
3. On the fifth row, the stove and oven are formed and installed. The lining of the combustion chamber with refractory bricks begins. It is recommended to do this from the right side to the left. After installing the grille, a gap of up to 5 millimeters is made in case the metal expands at temperature. You can fill this gap with ash. At the end of the formation of the ash chamber, a damper is installed. The ash pit structure is laid out with fireclay bricks. At the same stage, the oven is formed and the laying out of the chimneys begins.
   
4. In subsequent rows up to the 9th row, a combustion chamber is laid out, the door of which is placed with a gap of about 5 millimeters, which is covered with an asbestos cord. Between the oven and the firebox, the stamped brick must be laid on edge.
   
   
   
5. In the masonry of the 10th row, the oven is blocked and a partition is placed with the firebox, which rises by 2 centimeters. Afterwards, a layer of solution is placed on the oven to the level of the partition. A corner measuring 10x4x4 centimeters is placed under the tile.
6. The 11th row is devoted to laying the hob and forming channels for the chimney.
   
   
   
   
7. On rows 12-16 the cooking chamber and chimney channels are laid. It is important to consider suture dressing.
   
   
   
8. The cooking chamber is overlapped on rows 17 and 18. Bricks should be laid on strip steel elements and angles. This structure is secured by a wire fixed in solution.
   
   
   
   
   

ATTENTION: All gaps between bricks and other elements should be closed with asbestos cord.

Laying out the chimney should begin in increments of 5 bricks. Three rows before the end, it is necessary to install a “fluff” in order to protect the wooden elements. In this compartment, the thickness of the pipe should be equal to one and a half bricks. It is important to round the corners when finishing, otherwise the traction will be weaker.

According to the standards, the pipe must rise 60 centimeters above the roof. A special cap should be attached to the top of the structure.

It is strictly forbidden to try to light the stove immediately after laying. You must wait up to 15 days to dry it. The solution must completely harden. If you can't wait for this to happen naturally, try using a fan.

• After completing the first stage of drying, the stove must be gradually put into operation and begin to be heated with small portions of firewood to warm it up to low temperatures. It is recommended to do this continuously for the next 2 weeks.
• Paper can help assess the state of drying. Crumple up a few sheets and place them in the cleaning holes. If the paper stops getting damp, this is a sure sign that drying has ended. Then you can start using the stove gradually.
• For the next three days, the stove is heated in the morning and evening with an increase in the amount of firewood to increase the intensity of the operation of this device.
• It is not recommended to use birch or pine firewood for “Swedish”. They produce a lot of heat and a lot of soot. Aspen is best suited for these purposes.

A heating and cooking stove with an oven is an excellent solution for a residential building with a small area. If it comes to an irregularly heated room, a slightly different structure will do. You can lay out the “Swedish” design yourself using the instructions given above.