Do-it-yourself concrete blind area diagram. Technology for constructing a blind area around the house

The blind area is designed to protect the foundation from damage that may result from contact with atmospheric moisture. Additionally, the blind area will protect the structure from the destructive effects of the roots of various plants. Many owners ignore the need to install this element completely in vain. You can make a blind area with your own hands, and thanks to this element, which is easy to construct, the service life of the building will increase significantly.

The blind area performs a series important functions, among which:

• ensuring reliable protection of the foundation of the house from the harmful effects of atmospheric moisture and other negative factors;
• diversion of any kind of water from the building into the drainage system. Special drainage gutters are installed in the surface of the blind area, thanks to which the risk of the base and base getting wet is significantly reduced;
• improving the appearance of the building. Thanks to the blind area, the foundation will look more harmonious and complete;
• additional insulation of the foundation. Provided that all layers of the structure are properly arranged or special heat-insulating materials are used, the soil close to the house will freeze much less;
• practicality. Quite often, a blind area is used as a convenient path around a building, along which you can move without causing harm to plants and other elements of the site’s landscape.

Thus, the blind area is a functional and aesthetic element that must be installed around your home. Study the instructions provided and you will be able to make a high-quality and reliable blind area with your own hands.

The design under consideration consists of covering (upper) and underlying (lower) layers. The underlying layer ensures a smooth surface. However, the base should not be 100% horizontal, but have some slope.

If concrete is used as the top layer, the bottom layer must be made horizontal. The slope will be created directly at the stage of pouring concrete. Thanks to the slope, quick and high-quality drainage of water from the facade of the building will be ensured.

At the end of the work, a drainage ditch is created along the outer edge of the perimeter of the blind area. The slope is usually maintained at a level of 5 cm per 1 m of blind area width.

The underlying and covering layers can be made of different materials. So, clay, crushed stone and gravel are suitable for arranging the bottom layer.

Practice shows that it is best to use crumpled clay as a base. This material initially has good waterproofing properties. The standard thickness of the bottom layer is 25-30 cm. If the base of the blind area is made of clay, it will be enough to equip a 15-20 cm layer of the substrate.

When using gravel or crushed stone, sand must be poured over the main part of the underlying layer. The thickness of a separate additional layer of sand should be 7-10 cm.

For the covering layer, use a hard and moisture-proof material. The most commonly used materials are concrete, natural stone, and asphalt. Paving slabs and bricks are sometimes used.

Preparing for work

Before starting work, you need to decide on the basic parameters of the future blind area. First of all, set the appropriate width. In the majority regulatory documents it is indicated that the blind area must have a width of at least 60 cm. However, this is only the minimum recommended value. There are many additional important factors to consider before you finally select the appropriate width.

First of all, pay attention to the features eaves overhangs roofs of your house. The outer border of the blind area should be approximately 25-30 cm further than the most protruding edge of the roof eaves.

At the stage of designing a blind area, one cannot help but take into account the architectural and design features of the house. For example, if the site is decorated using various kinds of unusual design elements, the blind area can also be given original look, intelligently and organically connecting it with other elements of the landscape.

A very important parameter is the type of soil at the construction site. For example, if the house stands on subsiding soil, the width of the blind area should be at least 90-100 cm. Experts recommend that the blind area be more than 1 m wide. In such conditions, the structure in question will be able to simultaneously drain water and serve as a convenient path around the building.

It is important that the blind area is continuous. Any kind of rupture of the fabric can lead to a decrease in the protective functions of the blind area.

After determining the appropriate width, you will need to set optimal value slope of the blind area. In order for the structure to effectively cope with water drainage tasks, the slope must be at least 2-5 degrees in the direction from the house.

For determining exact value slope must also be taken into account climatic features, characteristic of the location of the house, and the type of material used to construct the top layer of the structure. For example, if the covering layer is made of paving slabs, the slope of the blind area can be slightly reduced compared to the same indicator for a structure made of crushed stone.

The slope itself can be created at the stage of laying the bottom layer or during the installation of the front covering. This point depends on what specific materials are used to construct the structure in question.

After defining optimal parameters systems, calculate the required amount of materials and collect the required tools. At the stage of creating the underlying layer, you will need crushed stone and sand or clay.

The top layer of the blind area is most often made of concrete. If you decide to make your choice in favor of this material, first prepare a concrete mixer or container for preparing mortar, fittings and wire, several shovels, a level and other small accessories.

Step-by-step instructions for pouring a blind area

The process of constructing a blind area will be discussed using an example concrete structure. If you are a beginner, pay attention to this option, because... in most cases it is easier to set up compared to others existing varieties blind area. Complete each step of the work and you will get a reliable, durable and efficient design.

First stage. Mark out the local area. It is enough to measure the selected distance from the walls of the house, drive pegs from any suitable material and connect these pegs with a rope. Make sure that the marking points are on the same line.

Second phase. Remove the soil over the entire area of ​​the blind area. The depth of the pit is selected individually, taking into account the type of system and the characteristics of the materials used. In most cases, the thickness of an ordinary concrete blind area is about 25 cm, excluding the front finish.

Third stage. Treat the plant roots at the bottom of the trench with special herbicides. Such treatment will not allow roots to grow in the future and disrupt the structure of the blind area.

Fourth stage. Assemble the formwork. You can use as starting materials unedged board And wooden blocks for supports. The thickness of the boards should be at least 2 cm. Install the boards along the outer border of the trench.

Fifth stage. Compact the bottom of the trench and place a 5 cm layer of clay on it. Compact the clay thoroughly, place a 10 cm layer of sand on top of it and tamp it down. For better compaction, the sand should be spilled with water. Place a layer of crushed stone on top of the sand.

Sixth stage. Place reinforcement bars on the prepared cushion. Maintain a step of 10-15 cm. As a result, you should get a reinforcing mesh. Tie the joints using steel wire. Thanks to reinforcement, the structure will have higher strength and resistance to various types of loads.

Seventh stage. At the junction of the blind area with the building, make an expansion joint. A 1.5 cm wide seam will be sufficient. Fill the seam space with a sand-gravel mixture or bitumen.

Eighth stage. Pour the concrete. Fill in one horizontal layer. Approximately every 230-250 cm, install transverse wooden slats. Thanks to them, the expansion joints necessary for the normal operation of the blind area will be created. Select the slats so that they top part was flush with the surface of the concrete structure. The slats should be pre-treated with an antiseptic.

Ninth stage. Carefully level the concrete and create the required slope before the mixture hardens.

Tenth stage. Cover the fill with wet burlap. As the fabric dries, it will need to be re-wetted with water. This will prevent the concrete mortar from cracking.

After about 3-4 weeks, the concrete will completely dry and gain required strength. If desired, you can lay porcelain stoneware, paving slabs or other suitable material on the dried blind area.

Thus, in self-construction there is nothing complicated about the blind area. All costs are reduced to purchase costs building materials. Follow the instructions and you can do everything as well as a professional builder.

Good luck!

Video - DIY blind area step by step instructions

Greetings, friends.

Alexander Alexandrov is in touch with you.

Today I will tell you how make the right blind area with your own hands.

When building a private house, you should consider various nuances. This includes preventing flooding of the foundation by rainwater. Constant flow of water under the foundation can lead to very undesirable consequences. The action of atmospheric moisture on foundation concrete leads to cracks and other damage. Plant roots begin to grow into these cracks and have a destructive effect on the foundation.Sometimes, when constructing a building, builders for some reason forget that such a problem exists, and the owner of the house has to solve it himself. Some owners do not realize the need to protect the foundation of the building, and this significantly reduces the service life of the home.

To prevent water from flowing under the foundation, a blind area is made - a special strengthening of the perimeter of the building. If you have experience construction work, this element of the house design can be done independently, thereby saving on the services of specialists.

So, how to make a blind area yourself?

Why is a blind area necessary?

The blind area is designed to perform the following important functions:

• protecting the foundation of the building from destructive factors such as moisture, plant roots, and so on;
• drainage of rain or melt water from the walls of the house to drainage system why the blind area is equipped - this design reduces the risk of the foundation getting damp;
• increasing aesthetics appearance at home, giving it harmony and completeness;
• reduction of heat losses in the cold season.

How the blind area is arranged

The basis of the blind area is the underlying layer, on top of which a covering layer is applied. Often used to create them different materials. To ensure drainage from the walls of the building, the surface of the blind area should have a slight slope.

The capping layer is often made of concrete.
In this case, the surface of the base layer must be horizontal, while the slope of the surface of the covering layer is created when the concrete is poured. The standard slope is five centimeters per meter.

The underlying layer is most often made of clay, crushed stone or gravel. Most practical material is crumpled clay due to the fact that it does not allow water to pass through well. Typically the underlying layer is made from 0.25 to 0.3 meters thick. When using clay, a sufficient thickness for the underlying layer will be from 0.15 to 0.2 meters.

If crushed stone or gravel is used to create the underlying layer, then between it and the covering layer there should be a layer of sand with a thickness of 0.07 to 0.1 meters.

The covering layer is made of durable and waterproof material - natural stone, asphalt, concrete. In some cases, brick or sidewalk tiles are used for this.

Preparing for work

The first step in preparation is to establish the main parameters future design. The standard minimum width of the blind area is 0.6 meters. However, when designing it, it is necessary to take into account the following factors, including those related to the features of the architecture and design of the building:

1. The position of the edge of the eaves of the roof of the house: the edge of the blind area should protrude beyond this edge by at least 0.25-0.3 meters. This will prevent water from flowing from the roof onto the ground if there is no drainage or problems with it.
2. The compatibility of the blind area with the overall design of the building and the surrounding landscape.
3. Features of the soil around the building. So, if the house is surrounded by subsidence soil, then the minimum recommended width of the blind area is one meter. This size makes it convenient to use the blind area as a path.
4. Features of the climate of the area in which the house is located.
5. Materials that are supposed to be used for the construction of the blind area. So, if you make a covering layer of paving slabs, then the slope can be made smaller than if you use crushed stone.

After establishing the width of the blind area that is acceptable in a given situation, it is necessary to determine the angle of its inclination. To ensure effective drainage, the value of this angle should lie between two and five degrees.

The slope of the blind area can be created both during the process of laying the underlying layer and during installation outer covering. The choice of one approach or another is determined by the materials used.

Materials and tools

The next step in preparing the construction of the blind area is to calculate the required volume of materials and select the right tools. To lay the bottom layer you need crushed stone, sand or clay.

The most common capping material is concrete. If it is intended to be used in the construction of the blind area, then the following tools and additional materials will be needed:

• concrete mixer or mixing trough cement mortar;
• wire;
• reinforcing bars;
• bayonet shovels for digging soil and shovels for working with mortar;
• ruler or tape measure;
• level.

DIY blind area

1. Marking

The first step in building a blind area is marking the area in front of the building. To do this, you need to drive pegs into the ground around the perimeter of the building at the required distance from the wall and connect them with twine.

2. Digging a trench for a blind area

After this operation, you need to dig a trench between the stretched twine and the wall of the house, the depth of which will be determined by the selected material. As a rule, the thickness of a concrete blind area is 0.25 meters. In this case, the thickness of the surface finish is not taken into account.

After the trench for the blind area is ready, it is necessary to prevent unwanted growth of plants in it, the roots of which could have a destructive effect on the structure in the future. To do this, the soil in the trench and near it is treated with special herbicides. If trees grow not far from the future blind area, their roots should be cut off.

You can also lay geotextiles, but this is more expensive.

Digging a trench is not always a necessary procedure. If the soil around the house is soft enough, then it will be enough to compact it to the appropriate depth.

3. Installation of formwork

The next step is to assemble the formwork. For this, you can use uncut boards with a thickness of at least 20 millimeters. The boards are installed along the outer border of the pit. Wooden blocks can be used as supports.

4. Creating an underlying layer

After installing the formwork, it is necessary to compact the bottom of the trench and fill it with clay so that the layer thickness is 50 millimeters. The clay must be compacted tightly, and then a sand layer 100 millimeters thick must be poured onto it, which should also be compacted. To ensure good compaction of the sand layer, the sand should be moistened. The final step this stage The work involves laying crushed stone on top of the sand layer.

Compacting the soil at the bottom of the pit is necessary step in carrying out work on the construction of the blind area. If this is not done, then the blind area in the future may sag under its own weight. In order to completely eliminate water seepage through the blind area, the clay layer can be separated from subsequent layers with a waterproofing material, for example, a film of polyvinyl chloride or polyethylene.

5. Installation of reinforcing mesh

After the preparation of the cushion is completed, reinforcement is laid on the surface of the crushed stone layer to form a reinforcing mesh. In this case, the distance between the rods should be from 100 to 150 millimeters. The intersections of the rods must be tied with steel wire. The presence of a reinforcing mesh ensures the strength of the blind area and its ability to withstand various loads.

Instead of reinforcing bars, you can use ready-made reinforcing mesh.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW

An important nuance when reinforcing is to ensure complete envelopment of the reinforcement with cement mortar. To do this, you can lay the mesh on wooden blocks, which are gradually removed during the concreting process.

6. Creating an expansion joint

Where the blind area comes into contact with the wall of the building, an expansion joint must be created, the width of which should be approximately 15 millimeters. To fill the joint space, sand mixed with gravel or bitumen is used.

To create a heat-insulating layer between the blind area and the wall of the house, you can also use slabs of extruded polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam. It is important to ensure a tight fit of the insulation boards to each other.

7. Pouring concrete

The next stage of work is pouring the concrete solution. To do this, you must first lay wooden slats across the trench so that the distance between them is 2.3-2.5 meters. The purpose of these slats is to create expansion joints that ensure normal performance characteristics designs. The width of the slats should be such that their edges coincide with the surface level of the concrete layer. To prevent the destruction of the slats by bacteria and fungus, the wood must be treated with an antiseptic solution and covered with a layer of bitumen.

Standard concrete mortar is prepared from cement (one part), sand (two parts) and small crushed stone (three parts). It is advisable to use river or sea sand. If you use regular sand from a quarry, you must first wash it to remove various impurities.

Sand is washed twice or three times. You can use a concrete mixer for this. When washing, sand is poured into a concrete mixer, filled with water and mixed for several minutes. After this, the concrete mixer is turned off and the water is drained. If this procedure is neglected, then in the future it is possible that the blind area will be washed away by water.

Concrete is poured in one layer at once. Otherwise, between areas filled in different time, cracks may appear in the future. Therefore, even if it is impossible to pour all the concrete within one day for some reason, then the next day the work should be completely completed.

To prevent future cracks and defects, it is important to ensure high quality cement mortar. Therefore, it is best to prepare it in a concrete mixer.

If hot weather occurs during the construction of the formwork, then best time for work – early morning or evening.

8. Leveling the concrete surface

After the concrete layer has been poured and has not yet hardened, its surface must be leveled and the required slope created. A rule is applied to perform this procedure. If you don’t have this tool, you can use a regular wooden strip with a smooth and even surface. To ensure evenness, smoothness and correct slope of the surface, special beacons should be used as guides.

Upon completion of the creation of the covering layer, the surface of the concrete must be covered with burlap moistened with water. This fabric must be moistened regularly to prevent it from drying out. This will ensure that cracks do not appear in the concrete as it gradually hardens.

9. Finishing and decorative works

The concrete curing process lasts two to three weeks. After this time period has passed and the concrete has acquired the necessary strength, you can remove the formwork and begin finishing and decorating its surface. For this you can use sheets of porcelain stoneware, or anything else.

Do-it-yourself blind area at home - video

Well, that's all, friends.

By following these step-by-step instructions, you can easily make a blind area with your own hands and spend only on building materials.

The longevity of a building depends on the condition of the foundation, the health of which is determined by reliable and efficient drainage surface waters from home at any time. This task is performed by the blind area, which primarily has protective function. One of the most common and accessible is the technology of arranging a concrete blind area around a building. Its correct design, created with your own hands, will effectively perform the functions long years.

What does it represent?

The blind area is an external basement waterproof concrete structure in the form of a continuous path along the perimeter of the building, sloping from the wall towards the surrounding topography of the local area. Its arrangement involves a tight but movable connection to the base of the house.

The structure is a layered “pie” consisting of materials that together keep the foundation dry. The basis of such protection is in proportion: a compacted, even underlying layer of sand (crushed stone, clay), waterproofing and a coating - concrete, which ensures the waterproofness of the structure.

Functions performed

A properly equipped blind area ensures the longevity of the structure, preventing the destruction of the foundation and structures of the house by moisture from precipitation and melt water. A blind area without concrete, created with your own hands, is a temporary measure that does not solve the entire complex of problems of such a design.

Main function correct blind area- divert and transport water a sufficient distance from the foundation towards the lowest place on the site or into a storm drain.

In addition to the function of a horizontal hydrobarrier, the blind area (especially insulated) reduces the freezing of the soil around the house, which reduces the likelihood of it swelling (rising), and also reduces the thermal conductivity of the building. A blind area without concrete does not prevent periodic moisture of the soil close to the foundation and, as a result, harmful effects which can be caused by hard plant roots. Safety device also gives the building an aesthetically complete look and can be used as a pedestrian path.

Requirements for the blind area and design rules

The encircling protective structure must have the same width, the value of which is 20–30 cm greater than the overhang of the roof eaves beyond the wall of the building. It is generally accepted that it is about 1 m (or more on subsiding soils). The blind area is buried to no more than half the depth of soil freezing in the area. Thickness concrete covering selectable within 7 – 10 cm (up to 15 cm if used as a path).

The recommended slope of the coating is 92 - 94 degrees relative to the wall of the building (or 10 - 100 mm per 1 meter of blind area width). The height of the base above the blind area at the junction of the structure is set to 50 cm. Its outer lower edge should be raised approximately 50 mm above ground level, which prevents the accumulation of water at the edge.

The technology for creating a structure assumes the possibility of its integral movement following soil deformations relative to the foundation, which ensures near-wall.

How to make a blind area?

Markings are made on the area, the fertile layer of soil is removed. The underlying (clay) is laid. Geotextiles (for example, roofing felt) are laid. The formwork is formed taking into account expansion joints. The area is reinforced. Concrete for the blind area is prepared in the correct proportion and poured into the formwork. The coating surface is drawn out with the selected slope along the edge of the formwork and leveled. The concrete is given time to dry.

For earthworks You will need shovels, a pick, twine, a tape measure, a tamper, and pegs. The required volume of geotextile (waterproof film) for the water seal should be calculated. Components for mixing concrete (washed sand, water, gravel, crushed stone of fractions 5 - 10 mm, cement) or (for example, grade M400 and higher) are required in the required quantity and proportion. Tools also include a mixer (container) for forming the solution, buckets, carts (stretchers), and a measuring bucket. The laying of the underlying layer must be provided with sufficient sand (clay).

The formwork is formed from boards, but a hacksaw, level, nails, and hammer are also useful. (steel wire), which should be delivered. Will be needed welding machine, a tool for cutting pieces of reinforcement. A long rule, trowel, and spatulas will help in laying and leveling concrete. The construction of seams will require polyurethane sealant.

A trench is marked around the house with pegs and string. The level at which the blind area adjoins the plinth is marked with beacons in 1.5 m increments. A layer of fertile soil is removed around the building, taking into account the layout of the surrounding surface. The bottom of the trench is compacted and leveled with the already formed slope (herbicides can be added). The depth of the passage can be up to 500 mm (at heaving soils).

Creation and compaction of a sand cushion

The bottom of the trench is lined with sand, the surface of which is also profiled with a slope. The material is abundantly moistened and compacted. The operation should be repeated at least twice. The thickness of the layer can be up to 20 cm. Its surface is carefully leveled.

Its device involves laying two layers of waterproofing (for example, roofing felt) on a sand substrate, which are slightly folded onto the wall to create an expansion joint. At the joints the material is overlapped. Next, the geotextile is covered with a thinner layer of sand, and then gravel (about 10 cm thick) with a slope of the top layer and compacted. It is advisable to place a drainage system close to such a water seal.

Creating formwork

Removable wooden mold protects the place where concrete is poured. It is reinforced with strong pegs with outside. The form provides for transverse expansion joints(after 2 - 2.5 m), which are installed, including at the corners of the formwork diagonally. Their tightness is formed by wooden blocks placed on edge (butyl rubber tapes), impregnated with waste oil and coated with bitumen.

The edges of the mold must be straight for the rule to apply. The difference in its height must correspond to the slope of the blind area. The height of the formwork corresponds to the thickness of the concrete. The expansion joint near the wall (10 - 20 mm wide) is filled with roofing material (hydro-swelling cord).

Reinforcement and filling

Used metal grid 50x50 (100x100) mm, which can be linked to pieces of reinforcement driven into the base in increments of 0.75 m. The mesh is raised above the level of crushed stone by 30 mm. Concrete is mixed and poured with your own hands in portions into the formwork sections to the level of its upper edge.

There should be no air pockets in the concrete. Correct proportions concrete mixture for blind areas they must correspond to frost resistance. The composition of concrete for the blind area is traditional (corresponding grade from M400 and above). Components that increase strength and durability can be added to the solution in proportion.

The blind area around the country house is a continuous, solid covering. It is laid out along the entire perimeter of the building, as can be seen in the photo above.

The blind area is done after the house is built. If the protruding area of ​​the foundation is planned to be refined with cladding in the future, then work is carried out only after finishing is completed.

Design features

It is very important to remember that the blind area is about country house pours before the onset winter period. Various materials are used for the blind area:

• crushed stone;
• paving slabs;
• asphalt;
• decorative tiles;
• stone paving stones.

However, the most common, practical, affordable option– concrete. You can lay concrete with your own hands, without professional help. This material reliable The price will fit into any budget.

On a note! The protective properties of the blind area are important. It protects the foundation from melt water and prevents the destruction of the building. The design allows water to bypass the building itself and immediately go into the sewer system.

Functional Features

Another function of the blind area is to prevent soil deformation. The blind area prevents it from swelling, since the soil is protected from freezing. As a result, the foundation of the structure will remain intact and will not be subject to warping.
An insulated blind area is a guarantee of maintaining a favorable microclimate in country house. It prevents freezing of the soil and foundation of the structure. Thanks to the insulated blind area, the floors in the room will not be cold and the rooms will remain warm. If the formwork of a country house is adjacent to the ground, it should be done with great care. Otherwise, there is a high risk that over time the roots of nearby trees and shrubs will grow and deform the foundation.
In order for the blind area of ​​a building at the dacha to fulfill its functions, it must be filled correctly. In the photo and video below you can follow the progress of the work.

Remember some nuances:

• the width of the blind area is made greater than the width of the roof overhang;
• the minimum dimensions are calculated from the width of the cornice, to which another 20 cm is added;
• if you make a structure near the house with your own hands, maintain an angle of at least 1.5 degrees, which ensures the outflow of water from the base.

Note! The coating is done strictly along the entire perimeter of the structure. It must be continuous. If the owner of a country house wants to protect buildings from water, he will make the widest possible blind area.

When what kind of blind area is needed: varieties

There are several types of blind area. As a rule, the base is concrete tiles, which can be:

• smooth;
• square;
• corrugated;
• hexagonal;
• rectangular;
• wavy.

Piece thickness concrete tiles ranges from 4 to 10 cm. That is why a concrete blind area, installed correctly, can easily withstand heavy loads.

Concrete and stone paving options

Stone paving stones are often used for work. This natural material wide color palette. Without certain skills, you won’t be able to lay out stone paving stones yourself and do it beautifully and competently. This is an expensive job. The result around the country house looks beautiful, modern, stylish and reliable.
Stone paving stones are placed on a layer of sand and crushed stone up to 5 cm. The tiles are laid out in the form of an ornament, especially if multi-colored fragments are used. There will definitely be seams between them. They are filled with sand.

The concrete version is the most common option. This is the simplest solution. You can lay it out with your own hands. The method of pouring the structure along the entire perimeter of the structure involves:

• soil removal;
• laying out a layer of sand, clay, gravel or crushed stone for waterproofing;
• pouring concrete mixture.

This solution perfectly protects the foundation from water. Concrete blind area Great for areas with high humidity.

Paving slab and crushed stone systems

Paving slabs are another common solution. For installation, use material with a thickness of 4 to 8 cm. The dimensions of the sides are not of fundamental importance and can vary from 35 to 50 cm. The photo clearly shows that this version is suitable for solid houses. For work, you can use colored paving slabs that will continue the concept facade finishing home and design of the entire territory of the dacha.
The soil surface for the device is pre-prepared. At the bottom of the area where the soil was removed, before laying out the paving slabs, a cushion of sand and crushed stone is poured.

On a note! If the system is created on the basis of crushed stone, it is important to mark the entire perimeter of the structure and compact the soil. It is also necessary to use geotextiles, which will prevent the germination of weeds.

Technology for performing work on arranging a blind area

How to make a blind area around the house? Doing the work yourself is not so difficult, the main thing is to take into account that the blind area will be layered. Any blind area, including insulated ones, consists of:

• waterproofing layer;
• pillows made of gravel and sand;
• laying out reinforcement, metal cutting or geotextiles;
• fills.

Also often used decorative layer from various facing materials.

Features and sequence of work

Proper execution of the blind area is carried out using a special technology. First, a pit is made so that the system is monolithic and does not deform due to temperature fluctuations. The width of the pit is greater than the formwork parameters. When the soil is removed, the earth is compacted. Then the boards are fixed for the future formwork. If the fasteners are placed frequently, the structure will be smooth.
Next, pour at least 10 cm of sand, which is also compacted. There is at least 5 cm of gravel on top. It needs to be leveled.

Afterwards reinforcement is carried out. To do this, use a special mesh with cells up to 10 cm. The material must completely cover the crushed stone, so the mesh is laid overlapping.
Then expansion joints are made. When the soil settles, they will maintain the integrity and strength of the blind area. The first seam between the coatings is laid at a distance of 1 cm from the wall of the house.

First, a sand cushion is sprinkled, on top of which a roofing material is placed. Then the area is filled with sealant or bitumen. Then they must place a binding seam, under which a longitudinal groove of 5 cm is made. Grooves are created at identical intervals. They insert metal rods or wire. Laths are used for seams. Lubricate the slats with sealant and place them in the corners.

Then the blind area is filled with solution. Pour the mixture in layers, then level each layer.

On a note! It is very important to check the level every time.

Common mistakes when constructing a blind area

To ensure that the blind area serves for many years, avoid common mistakes during construction. Level the first layer. Be sure to compact the layer of material. A thin layer and poor-quality compaction lead to cracks and subsidence.
The lack of a leveling layer is another mistake that leads to failures of the blind area. Make sure that the blind area is flush with the foundation. Fittings are suitable for this.
Do not try to reduce the thickness of the blind area, especially towards the outside. Water running off the roof will quickly damage the system.

The work is not limited to just the construction of a private house. It will be necessary to make some efforts to arrange the home so that it is as reliable, comfortable and durable as possible. One of the main stages, carried out after the completion of the main construction work, is the creation of a blind area around the house. This element performs a number of important functions. If you wish, you can make a blind area with your own hands; there is nothing super complicated about it.

Some homeowners ignore the need to build a blind area. And absolutely in vain! This building element helps to increase the service life of the building and generally creates more comfortable living conditions. The blind area protects the foundation and the surrounding land from the harmful effects of various types of water. Atmospheric and melt water, in the absence of obstacles, can erode the soil so much that moisture seeps into the foundation and then into its base. The consequences of such exposure can be very severe, including destruction of the foundation and the house.

Thus, the blind area is very important element, especially if the house is built on a shallow foundation, the base of which is located close to the top layer of soil. When wet, the base of the base will lose its strength and begin to sag, which will lead to a significant decrease in the strength of the concrete structure, up to its destruction.

But even if the house is built on a strong, buried foundation, the need for a blind area cannot be ignored. It must be present in any case, regardless of the type of foundation, soil and level of precipitation characteristic of a particular region, etc.

Preparing to create a blind area around the house

There is nothing complicated about constructing a blind area yourself; you just need to take into account and follow the basic recommendations in order to get the most reliable and durable building. It is first necessary to prepare materials and understand the main stages of the technology.

Selecting the width of the blind area

Choose the appropriate width of the structure. Since the “shoulders” of this structure bear the function of protecting the foundation of the structure, the width of the fill should be quite large. To reduce the risk of foundation destruction under the influence of moisture, it is worth taking care to drain water from the walls of the building to the greatest possible distance. Optimal width the blind area is at least 80 cm.

Quite often, the blind area is made so wide that it simultaneously serves as a convenient path. This point also needs to be taken into account at the stage of planning the blind area, so that in the future you do not have to move sideways along such a path. Thus, the most convenient width of the blind area, which can provide both reliable protection, and freedom of movement, is 150-250 cm.

The blind area is carried out with a certain slope, which can ensure the drainage of rain and melt water from the house. According to building codes per 100 cm of structure width there should be at least 5-10 cm of slope. Thus, if the blind area is, for example, 100 cm wide, then the edge that meets the wall of the house will rise by 5-10 cm, and the opposite side will be at the same level with the ground.

Such a descent is quite sufficient to effectively drain water from the building. However, it is difficult to move around such a structure. But if you reduce the angle of inclination, the flow of liquid will not be as effective. In view of this, the slope is made at a level of 1.5 cm per 100 cm of the width of the structure. This is the optimal value, which does not interfere with walking along the path and promotes effective moisture removal.

Materials for the installation of a blind area

The independent construction of the design in question requires the presence of certain devices. The list of materials may vary depending on the selected type of blind area. The most common option is concrete construction.

First you need to clean the area under the blind area, lay reinforcing mesh from rods with a diameter of at least 6 mm, connect the rods with a special binding wire, install the formwork and pour the concrete solution. This general scheme. However, each stage has its own characteristics and requires separate consideration.

Set for pouring blind area

1. Shovel for digging a trench.
2. Level.
3. Wheelbarrow.
4. Manual tamping.
5. Materials for moisture insulation.
6. Material for thermal insulation.
7. Clay.
8. Crushed stone.
9. Sand.
10. Reinforcing bars or finished design with cells 100x100 mm.

Remove everything from the walls of the house that could interfere with the work, collect the devices listed above and start marking. For this step you will need some rope and metal pegs. When creating markings, make sure that the structure has the same width in all places.

Guide to pouring a blind area

The blind area makes a big contribution to the durability of the foundation, so its creation must be approached with maximum responsibility.

The structure consists of an underlying and a top layer. The first is responsible for creating an even, compacted base for the next layer. It is created from sand and small gravel. The total thickness of the layer is about 2 cm. You can also use clay. When choosing a specific bedding material, focus on the material of the top layer.

The top layer is designed to create water resistance and increase the resistance of the structure to water. Can be created from small cobblestones, clay, concrete and other materials. The thickness of such a layer is about 10 cm.

The instructions will discuss the procedure for arranging the most popular type of blind area - concrete. Having dealt with its construction, you can make a blind area from any other materials suitable for this purpose without any problems.

How to make a blind area with your own hands. Digging trenches and erecting formwork

The technology for arranging a blind area around the house requires mandatory reinforcement. Thanks to the reinforcing mesh, the rigidity and durability of the concrete structure will be increased. As noted, you can buy ready mesh or assemble it yourself from metal rods. Cells with a side of 10 cm are considered optimal.

Special attention must be paid to the expansion joint. It is created at the junction of the basement of the house with the blind area. Due to such a seam, the said structures will be protected during the process of soil subsidence. That is, the blind area will be able to sink along the seam without causing damage to the base of the house. The standard seam width is 1-1.5 cm. The seam must be filled with roofing felt, sand-gravel mixture or bitumen of your choice.

You can also use a special rope for filling, the manufacture of which uses foamed polyethylene.

It is important that the diameter of this bundle is approximately ¼ greater than the width of the expansion joint and fits into the gap as tightly as possible. For more convenient compaction of the bundle, take plywood or other similar material.

The blind area technology requires that seams be present across the concrete structure, approximately every 200-300 cm. They will protect the blind area from ruptures during frosts. It is most convenient to make transverse seams using wooden slats. It is enough just to install the slats so that their top is located at the same level as the upper border concrete pouring. Also, expansion joints must be present in the corners of the building. Don't forget to take into account the slope of the blind area.

To protect the slats from rotting, they must be pre-treated bitumen mastic, waste oil or other similar material. Also, expansion joints must be present in the corners of the building.

Concrete for blind area. Preparation and pouring

Concrete is prepared from 1 part cement (it is best to use the M400 grade material or the less expensive M500), two parts sand and four parts crushed stone.

After pouring, the concrete must be compacted and leveled. Wood slats, previously used to create transverse expansion joints, will simultaneously serve as beacons by which you can navigate during the work process.

After pouring is completed, the concrete should be covered with a cloth; burlap is ideal. The cloth should be regularly moistened with water to prevent the concrete from drying out and cracking.

In the end, all that remains is to wait until the concrete gains strength. On average, this takes 1 month. If desired, you can complete the finishing lining of the blind area. Acid-resistant bricks are perfect for this.

Thus, there is nothing complicated about pouring the blind area around the house yourself. Just follow the instructions you received and everything will work out.

Good luck!

Video - DIY blind area around the house