Finishing the bath: choosing the best materials for the steam room, washing room and changing room. Interior decoration of a bathhouse: options, choice of style and materials based on type Using lining - rational or not

Arrangement of a bath complex requires proper attention to the most insignificant nuances. The bathhouse will turn into an ideal place to relax only after carefully studying the theoretical part and the sequence of actions. And already done with my own hands the work will only enhance the positive effect of receiving bath procedures.

Peculiarities

main feature Russian bath - wet steam. To create it, a certain humidity is maintained in the steam room. Humidity and steam balance is achieved by a complete lack of ventilation.

There are a huge number of options for finishing bath rooms. The choice depends on personal preferences and is limited by financial capabilities. The features of the interior decoration should traditionally be conducive to relaxation and spiritual pleasure. Therefore, the main thing in interior decoration is naturalness, convenience, and minimalism.

For example, an excellent natural decor for a steam room is a natural log house. However Newest technologies construction involves the use of more modern methods construction of a bathhouse, so structures often require finishing materials.

Additional materials should not negatively affect the basic requirements for the bath:

• the steam room, shower, relaxation room should have a beautiful and practical design;
• in the steam room it is important to have hot but not scalding steam;
• In the shower, both convenience and safety are important.

Properly selected materials will have a positive impact on functional features baths They will also affect the service life of the walls, floors, and ceilings of the premises. It is important to choose materials according to required quality in accordance with the characteristics of the bath premises.

For example, a steam room is distinguished by the constant presence of hot steam, which comes in a concentrated form and is quite dense. In addition, there are temperature changes in this room, as well as high humidity.

Many materials may not withstand such an extreme situation. However, the modern market offers a lot interesting options finishing that best suits the conditions of the steam room.

The finishing features for the steam room should be as follows:

• have the ability to warm up and not accumulate heat;
• be moisture resistant;
• have good aesthetic characteristics;
• be resistant to fungus and mold;
• have the ability to purify the air.

The washing room involves not only washing, but also relaxation. Classic choice: wood, ceramic tile. For washing, for example, coniferous wood is suitable. It has high water-repellent qualities. In addition, at coniferous species beautiful appearance. The floor in this room should have anti-slip properties, as well as a comfortable temperature. Ceramic tiles can help achieve results.

As a reliable material for the vestibule and rest room, you can choose:

• porcelain stoneware;
• plaster;
• natural stone;
• wallpaper.

Greater aesthetics and practicality can be achieved by combining these finishes. In a bathhouse created with your own hands, it is possible to realize the most non-standard ideas. Pick up optimal types finishes and their variations.

Materials

Traditional decoration inside the bathhouse made of wood. The most suitable wooden base for finishing is lining.

These special finishing panels there are main advantages:

• good air circulation;
• zero condensate;
• beautiful appearance;
• easy installation;
• acceptable price.

The best starting materials for lining are: larch, linden, alder, ash. Hardwood walls warm up faster, while the outside temperature of the walls remains comfortable for human skin.

Unlike conifers, hardwoods do not emit resins, so they are considered harmless for finishing the walls of a steam room.

Pine lining, for example, is not at all suitable for a steam room. When heated, this base will release toxic substances and is also covered with resin, which can drip from the walls and ceiling and cause burns.

Walls

Options for the type of finishing “lining” are classy. For example, class C has a low cost and is suitable for finishing vestibule walls. Class B is equipped with contrasting inclusions, cracks, and minor damage. Every 1.5 meters of length of such a lining implies the presence of a certain number of knots. The lining is suitable for the design of a recreation room in natural style, as well as for the vestibule.

Class A lining allows for a few small cracks. However, it does not allow visible cores on the cut. There may be at least one knot per 1.5 meters of length. Class A lining is suitable for finishing the walls of some areas of the steam room.

Premium class lining has an excellent appearance, but the corresponding price. The material can be used to cover the walls of a steam room, relaxation room, or washing room. Linden croaker will serve as an excellent wall decoration. The material does not allow overheating and does not release resins. Linden panels will serve as high-quality sound insulation; they can be supplemented with unedged boards.

For vapor barrier of the steam room, basalt mineral wool and foil in the form of a film are used. Both the walls and the ceiling are sheathed with foil for waterproofing purposes. In order to insulate the stove in the steam room, it is permissible to use brick and salt for finishing.

It is permissible to use Himalayan salt in the bath. A salt bath combines the positive properties of a dry steam room and a healing chamber, providing a beneficial effect on a person.

Ceiling

Work related to finishing the ceiling begins with laying insulation in the attic. To prevent dust from entering the room, all cracks between the boards must be sealed. Brick chips and other bulk options are used as insulation material.

The ceiling of the bathhouse must withstand temperature loads. Finishing materials must resist steam flows. You should not choose materials for finishing the ceiling that emit toxic substances when heated.

Therefore, it is not recommended to use materials such as plywood or chipboard from the inside - they contain sawdust, which is a fire hazard. Do not choose polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam or polyethylene films as insulation; they are afraid of high temperatures.

Construction Basics, relevant for bathhouse ceilings are spruce or pine beams for beams and ceilings, not edged board or tongue and groove for the first ceiling, class A or B linden lining - interior ceiling lining. Aluminum foil and membrane films can be used for vapor barrier, and membrane films for waterproofing. You can sheathe the steam room with linden and bast.

Linden croaker with bast is an ideal option for finishing a bathhouse ceiling in a natural style.

Floor

The optimal choice for the floor of all rooms of the bath, except for the steam room, is ceramic tiles. A block of tiles in a steam room may be present near the stove. The variety of modern collections will allow you to choose without much difficulty suitable design for a rest room or washing room. At the same time, tiling will not only be comfortable and aesthetically pleasing, but also practical and durable.

The floor of the steam room can be made of concrete or wood. Concrete or stone floors are cold. Therefore, wood is often preferred. Wooden floors require the preparation of a foundation on which beams are laid, and logs are laid on top of them. The voids between beams and joists are filled with insulation, which is expanded clay. A vapor barrier and waterproofing are laid on top of the insulation, then the finishing floor is installed.

A concrete floor requires a foundation made of crushed stone and clay. Roofing felt serves as waterproofing and bitumen mastic. The insulation can be mineral wool or expanded clay. Finishing layer the floor is laid on a heat-insulating surface.

Design

For example, a steam room is considered the real heart of a bathhouse, and therefore its interior should be living, breathing. Synthetic materials are not allowed, especially near the stove. All items in the steam room must be of high quality safety and natural purity.

Combinations of finishing materials such as lining and stone, brick and granite slabs, and block house will look especially designer in the steam room. In addition to beauty, the interior of the steam room must be absolutely safe. Therefore, the design of a steam room is often a compromise of choice. In a steam room, strict curves of the shelves, hidden light, and noble stone behind the stove are effective.

If a separate room for vacationers is designed in the bathhouse, then all the attention in the design is to comfort. The same naturalness comes first here. Curtains with flounces and strict blinds on the windows are appropriate in the design. This bathhouse room is usually compact, but bright.

However, there are no special design requirements. It is desirable that everything be decorated in fairly calm colors, conducive to a comfortable pastime.

A modern bathhouse requires the arrangement of a washing room. Full plumbing fixtures are allowed for installation here. Often this place is a pool of unimaginable shapes. Due to the lack of space for arranging a swimming pool, showers are installed in the washing room. Stylish modern shower stalls will not take up much space, and will fit well into the interior of the bathhouse. Not even necessary for showers separate room highlight.

The internal washing area in the Russian bathhouse was also built around the stove, in the steam room. Simple basins and ladles served as washing objects. Taking into account the possibilities modern materials all this can be implemented in the current bathhouse buildings.

The design of a bathhouse can be interconnected with personal perception of colors and their combinations. This feature depends on the physiological structure of the eyes, the state of the nerves, and life experience. Psychologists say that for women color is more important than shape, while for men content is more important. At the same time, a person has the ability to associate something with something all the time.

Bathhouse design is a purely individual choice and should be based only on your personal idea of ​​relaxation.

How to finish it yourself?

The basis of a Russian bath is a stove. The best materials for a heater – natural stones, bricks.

For floor installation, edged boards are allowed, and the work itself includes several stages.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. Getting rid of all debris, leveling the base.
2. Preparation of concrete screed. This step can be skipped if the rough base is already sufficiently leveled. The base can be covered with sand.
3. Laying brick bases that will support the logs. The height of the brick bases is equal to the height of the flooring.
4. Attaching joists to posts. Logs are boards with a section of 25x25 in increments of 100 cm.
5. Laying floor boards. Work should begin from the corner away from the room relative to the doorway. Self-tapping screws are suitable for fastening. It is important that the caps are completely embedded in the wood when screwing in.
6. The floor design must include a drain.

After laying the floor, the walls are covered. A frame base is installed for the cladding. The frame material is timber or simple slats. It is important to consider the load level here. For example, shelves are often attached to walls; the slats will not support them. The direction of the frame base should be perpendicular to the lining.

Guide to work stages:

1. Install the first and last strips on the wall using self-tapping screws. The pitch of the guides is selected in accordance with the dimensions of the insulating materials.
2. Strengthen the waterproofing material over the frame.
3. Start working with insulation (for example, mineral wool).
4. Lay a layer of vapor barrier. Individual sheets of material are better fastened with a construction stapler.
5. Start arranging the lining, starting from the farthest section of the room.

After covering the verticals, proceed to the ceiling work. Lining is also allowed for the ceiling. An edged board or timber is suitable as a frame. The pitch of the frame corresponds to the size of the insulation boards. The frame is installed similarly to the walls.

Step-by-step instructions:

1. Attach a layer of moisture-repellent base over the frame.
2. Next, fill the gaps with insulation (for example, basalt wool).
3. Level the slabs carefully.
4. Install a vapor barrier layer on top of the insulation using a construction stapler. Provide an overlap of 20-30 cm. Glue the joints with aluminum tape.
5. Proceed to the installation of the lining.

The bathhouse is an amazing place to relax and recuperate. Therefore, it should be not only hot, but also comfortable. Every owner strives to give his bathhouse an attractive appearance both outside and inside. In this article we bring to your attention some tips on how to set up, interior decoration which is no less important stage than the construction itself.

So, if you are planning to do the interior decoration of the bathhouse yourself, then this article will be useful to you. Here you will find and professional instructions for different types of finishes, and step by step photos important finishing works, and detailed videos that will help you solve your problems at the highest level. Our advice will help you not to deviate from the principles of construction technologies when performing cladding, cladding, etc.

Finishing inside the bath - the most important stage construction. Its quality and level of performance determine not only the aesthetic characteristics of the bathhouse, but also the atmosphere of coziness and comfort, the degree of convenience. In addition, the materials used for finishing directly affect the creation of a special microclimate in the bathhouse and its healing properties. The main task of finishing is to make your stay in the bathhouse as pleasant, comfortable and useful as possible.

A modern Russian bathhouse requires the presence of several rooms:

• vestibule;
• steam room;
• washing room

If you have built a large bathhouse, then it is quite possible to equip it with an additional recreation room, a billiard room, kitchen area, playground, swimming pool and much more. Theoretically, you can plan and build any bathhouse, equipped with everything that seems necessary and useful to you. However, this does not in any way affect the basic defining requirements for a bath:

• all premises should have an attractive and practical design;
• the steam room should have hot and pleasant steam;
• the washing room should be comfortable and safe.

Finishing has a great influence on the functionality of the bath. Even if you used high-quality material for construction, which does not require mandatory interior finishing, it still needs to be done in the bathhouse. Properly selected materials will allow you to create optimal conditions for comfortable rest, and will also significantly extend the service life of walls, floors, and ceilings. Materials are selected in accordance with the purpose and characteristics of a particular room. Read below about how best to finish a steam room, washing room, vestibule.

When planning the decoration of a steam room, take into account the following features of this room:

• The constant presence of heated steam flowing in a concentrated and dense stream;
• Temperature changes, heating to high temperatures;
• High level humidity.

The conditions in the steam room can be said to be extreme. Many materials are simply not designed for use in such an environment. However, the modern wide range of finishing materials makes it possible to choose an option that will best meet even such harsh conditions. We recommend paying attention to the cladding board. Its characteristics must meet the following requirements:

• Low heat capacity, ability to warm up quickly and not accumulate heat;
• Moisture resistance;
• High aesthetic characteristics;
• Pleasant smell, no resins when heated;
• Resistance to fungus and mold;
• Air purification.

Today there are several classes of lining:

• C-class. It is characterized by low cost. But its characteristics are not high enough for finishing a bath.
• B-class. Such material may have contrasting spots, cracks, minor damage, and resin pockets. This class includes material on which there are no more than four knots for every 1.5 m of length;
• A-class. Shallow cracks may be present. There should be no cores in the cut. No more than one knot per 1.5 m length is allowed on each panel.
• Premium class. The highest quality and corresponding price. The color is uniform, there are no cores or knots.

The most common profiles are eurolining, tongue-and-groove, Softline, Shtil.

Shows excellent results as interior decoration for a bath linden lining. Its density is quite low, so it does not heat up very much in a steam room. At the same time, it does not release resins. Linden panels provide excellent sound insulation.

Lining made from other types of wood is also suitable for solving this problem. For example, cedar and aspen have proven themselves well.

When choosing a particular material for cladding, carefully inspect the panels. The wood must be dry, high-quality processed, and free from nicks, knots and other obvious defects. High quality material must meet these requirements, and only it will provide an aesthetic, reliable, durable finish.

The material for covering the steam room does not require additional treatment with special means. Antifungals should not be used antiseptic compounds or paint and varnish products. All these products are harmful to humans, and when heated, they will begin to actively release their wood, making bath procedures more dangerous than useful.

Before you start covering it with clapboard, the steam room must be insulated. An affordable and time-tested material that is suitable for this purpose is mineral wool. She is the most sought after in this area. Another option, no less effective, is basalt wool. It copes more successfully with exposure to high temperatures, so it will last slightly longer than mineral wool. But if we talk about ideal insulation for a steam room, then one cannot help but think of cork agglomerate. Among its advantages are hypoallergenicity, resistance to fungi and rot, and fire resistance.

The floor in the steam room should be pleasant to the touch, non-slip, not cold and not too hot.

The washing room is intended not only to take a shower and wash properly at a comfortable temperature. There should be a place to relax in the washing room so that you can leave the steam room for a while, pamper yourself with a massage, face and body masks and other relaxing and pleasant procedures. It is necessary to think through all these possibilities before starting finishing work, and even better - at the construction stage.

In any case, the choice of finishing materials should be made taking into account all these functions of the washing room. The best option is wood or ceramic tiles. If you can choose among deciduous wood for the steam room, then only coniferous wood is suitable for the washing room - pine, spruce, larch. It is very simple to explain this choice. Coniferous wood is resinous and has high water-repellent properties. Therefore, in washing conditions, it will perform better than hardwood and will last for many years, maintaining a pleasant appearance.

Particular attention should be paid to the selection of materials for finishing the floors in the washing room. The main qualities of the finished floor in this room are: comfortable temperature and anti-slip properties. To achieve this result, the base for the floor is prepared from concrete, and ceramic tiles are laid on it. In order to prevent strong slipping, wooden pallets or removable logs are placed on the ceramic floor. After each visit to the bathhouse, they are taken out into the air to dry. However, the floor in the washing room can be completely wooden, but ceramic tiles as the main finish are a more practical and durable option. It copes well with an abundance of water, various cosmetics, shampoo, etc.

A high level of humidity is maintained in all rooms of the bathhouse. This is the most important aspect that must be taken into account when choosing finishing materials. Any type of wood can be used for vestibules and other rooms. But don't limit yourself to using wood. For high-quality and stylish finishing of the vestibule, rest room and other bath rooms, other materials are also suitable:

• Porcelain tiles;
• Plaster;
• Natural stone;
• Fiberglass wallpaper;
• Majolica.

Various combinations of these materials open up wide possibilities for aesthetic and practical decoration of bathhouse premises. For example, the combination of natural stone and wood looks very solid and beautiful. A do-it-yourself bathhouse will allow you to turn your non-standard creative ideas into reality. The interior decoration, photos of which are presented on this page, will help you choose optimal materials and their combinations.

The ceiling of the bathhouse must withstand high temperature loads, and also cope well with streams of hot, humid steam. Do not forget about the need to protect the floors from heat and steam using heat and vapor barrier materials. For this purpose, you can purchase building membranes or aluminum foil. If you put them airtight, their effectiveness will be equally high. It is not recommended to perform a vapor barrier using foil with a layer of cotton wool, because this material is thinner, so it is much more difficult to work with it during the sheathing process. The same applies to foil with a layer of polypropylene foam. When exposed to high temperatures, this material releases substances that are toxic to humans and is therefore unsuitable for use in bathhouses.

Each joint between the vapor barrier and thermal insulation is taped with aluminum tape to ensure complete tightness. Sometimes, when performing work, the material is punctured, torn, etc. If this happens, then the hole formed in the material must be immediately sealed with aluminum tape, because later you may simply not remember about it or not find the damaged place. As a result, the vapor barrier will be leaky and of poor quality.

The steam room requires a pipe hole. It is equipped with a box with a stainless steel frame filled with expanded clay.

Cutting the ceiling for a pipe hole should be carried out taking into account maintaining a sufficient distance from wooden floor to the outer contour of the pipe, as well as taking into account the characteristics of the chimney used.

For execution pipe hole you will need:

• Two-millimeter stainless steel sheet;
• Galvanized box;
• Tie clamp.

The ceiling is cut mainly to ensure the fire safety of the ceiling. In addition, in this way, the chimney elements receive additional support and are securely fixed in place. Cutting allows you to design the outlet of the pipe.

A 400x400 mm box is installed from the attic side. A stainless steel sheet 500x500 mm is attached to it from below, on the side of the steam room. Near the steel lining, the pipe is covered with a clamp, preventing the pipe from coming into contact with the furnace. This significantly extends the service life of the furnace, since the entire load from the pipe falls on the upper steel circuit.

After the box and steel sheet have found their places, the inside of the box is insulated and covered with expanded clay. This will prevent heat loss through the box contour.

The steel sheet on the ceiling provides additional protection against high temperatures.

We bring to your attention instructions that will help you cover the ceiling in a bathhouse with clapboard quickly, economically and efficiently:

• The ceiling is lathed with 2x4 cm slats. They are attached at a distance of 40-45 cm. In those places where the frame is attached, ventilation gaps of 10 mm must be left.
• Horizontal slats are placed on the walls perpendicular to the lining;
• Fastening the panels begins from one of the walls. The first plank is aligned with the groove facing outwards. The tenon of another panel is driven into it. The order of connecting the tenon and groove can be changed, it is not important.

When performing sheathing, use rubber pads and a mallet to handle the material carefully and carefully without damaging it.

• Using special clamps, secure the planks. The clamps are attached to the rail with screws or nails. You can also use a construction stapler, it will be even more convenient. With the help of a stapler, the fastening is reliable, and the time required to complete the work is significantly reduced.
• There should be gaps of up to 2.5 cm between the sheathing and the wall. They are necessary for additional ventilation and to prevent deformation of the finish. To mask gaps, just nail ceiling plinth. The first panel and the last are attached with nails with inconspicuous heads. Such nails must be driven in at an angle, and the head must be firmly driven into the wood.

Do not forget that the sheathing must be carried out along strictly vertical lines. After each installed panel, a level check is required. If you don’t have a level at hand, you can simply measure the distance between the wall and the edge of the sheathing. It should be equal along the entire length of the bar.

If the values ​​obtained as a result of measurements diverge, then the lining must be tamped so that the measurements converge. Otherwise, the cladding will turn out uneven and sloppy. Tapping is done with a piece of panel, which is driven into the groove using a mallet or hammer to adjust the size.

You can achieve perfect evenness using another method. The wooden overlay is fixed and sharp wood chips are driven under it.

The only material suitable for covering walls in a steam room is wood. It is suitable for other bath rooms, but you can also use other materials in them - stone, tiles, etc. In the vestibule and rest room you can create original ensembles, combining various materials.

Cladding walls with clapboard

According to the main parameters, wall covering with clapboard is performed in the same way as ceiling finishing.

• The first stage is to fill a thick beam around the perimeter in a horizontal direction. Step – 80-100 cm.
• You need to put insulation in the recesses between the bars. For example, mineral wool. It is cut into appropriate pieces with a sharp knife. There is no need to compact the insulation.

Note! All work with mineral wool must be performed with gloves, a respirator and goggles.

• Then a vapor barrier is laid, each joint is glued with aluminum tape.

Pay special attention to insulating corner joints.

• Remember to leave gaps for ventilation. To do this, you can fill the spacer. The sheathing is created at right angles to the lining. Therefore, if you want to sheathe the walls, placing the lining vertically, then the sheathing must be nailed horizontally.

First of all, in the corners of the walls in vertical position slats for the frame are installed. Care must be taken to ensure that their position remains strictly vertical. To make it easier to align the horizontal slats, string can be stretched between the vertical slats near the ceiling and floor.

• Separate bars need to separate the door area and the window;
• Now you can proceed directly to the paneling.

It is recommended to fasten the lining for baths from one corner in the vertical direction. Due to this, it will be easier for water to drain from the walls without getting stuck in the grooves of the panels. If you like a horizontal pattern, then the tenon of the panel should be directed upward so that moisture does not collect and remain in the grooves. In this case, you need to start work by attaching the boards to the ceiling. The lathing in this situation is performed in the vertical direction.

The lining is directly fastened with clamps, nails, self-tapping screws or a construction stapler. If you use screws or nails, insert them at an angle, driving the heads deep into the wood. There should be ventilation gaps of about 2 cm between the ceiling and the casing, the floor and the casing.

Common problem that people encounter when performing self-cladding the walls of the bathhouse with clapboard means it is necessary to trim the material. This is not difficult to do. You can cut the paneling with a fine-toothed saw or jigsaw.

The last panel on the wall is cut to the required size and secured to the sheathing. The next wall begins with a panel whose ridge is cut off. It should fit snugly against the last batten of the previous wall. In the corners, elements must be adjusted especially precisely. Define exact values corner before cutting down the strip or panel. Draw a pencil line on the material to avoid mistakes. There should be no joints left in the corners of the panels.

The most important point when performing finishing work inside the bathhouse, this is the insulation of the stove. The following materials are suitable for solving this issue:

• Stainless steel sheets of appropriate size;
• Minerite is a special material with high heat-resistant characteristics. It is a mixture of cement, reinforcing fiber and mineral fillers. If the stove is located close to the wall, the mineralite should be laid in two layers. If there is at least 40 cm between the stove and the wall, then one layer will be enough.
• Ceramic heat-resistant tiles;
• Solid red brick. They need to lay the walls from the floor to the base of the pipe or higher;
• Profile iron is the cheapest option.

Ceramic tile - best option for finishing all rooms of the bathhouse, except the steam room. Considering the modern variety of models and collections, it will not be difficult to make the design of a rest room or washing room not only practical, comfortable and durable, but also aesthetic. The most important argument in favor of tiling is its excellent moisture resistance.

Laying tiles is carried out step by step. The first step is preparation. The second is the actual execution of the work.

Preparatory stage

Preparation of concrete or cinder block walls involves removing dust, dirt, plastering and leveling. Preparation wooden walls consists of performing waterproofing. Construction stapler on wooden panels roofing felt and roofing felt are nailed down. A chain-link mesh is sewn on top of the waterproofing, on which concrete mortar is thickly placed.

Then, in both cases, it is necessary to nail down an even beam. It will become the basis finishing. Instead of timber, a metal profile is also suitable. Do not forget to check the horizontal and vertical rows during the laying process. For horizontal use building level. For vertical ones, you can use a plumb line.

Instructions for laying tiles in a bathhouse

You can prepare the mortar for fixing the tiles yourself. To do this, you need to mix cement and sand in a ratio of 1:5. But you can also purchase a ready-made mixture. It is recommended to give preference to a special adhesive designed for laying tiles in rooms with high humidity and temperature changes. Before laying, the tiles must be placed in water to remove air. Thanks to this, the tile will stick to the mortar much better.

Work starts from the attached level. The first row must be laid out especially carefully, because it is this that determines the evenness of all subsequent rows and the neatness of the entire cladding.

The glue is placed on the back of the tile. Use a notched trowel for this. The glue can also be applied to the wall. Then the tile is carefully applied to the wall and pressed down so that the glue protrudes slightly beyond its edges. You can adjust the position of the tiles with a rubber hammer.

It is important to maintain equal distance between the tiles. Therefore, after you have laid adjacent rows, secure special plastic crosses in the corners of the tiles. This will allow you to maintain the same gap both in length and height.

It will take a couple of days for the tiles to dry. After this, you can remove the level and grind the seams. The color of the grout should be in harmony with the color of the tile.

The final stage is the removal of grout residues, cleaning the tiles and giving them a final aesthetic appearance. appearance.

With the help of ceramic tiles you can realize the most daring creative fantasies. You can lay it flat, diagonally, offset, or patterned. The easiest and fastest way is to lay the tiles in even rows.

If you decide to tile a complex pattern or design, then it is best to transfer it to the floor or wall so that you can immediately see where each tile should be located. This will allow you to flawlessly complete the cladding and give your bathhouse a truly original and unique look.

An unusual and very stylish solution for a bathhouse is finishing with terracotta slabs. They are ideal for this type of room as they are resistant to both temperature and moisture. At the same time, they allow you to create original and interesting design, eco-friendly, practical and stylish. The laying of this material has its own characteristics, primarily due to its significant weight. This tile requires a special adhesive. Mastic will also work.

The installation process consists of the following steps:

• The mastic is spread thickly on the stove. This material will require much more glue than for ordinary ceramic tiles;
• We apply the slab to the wall, press it down and level it;
• We continue to work in the same order with the remaining slabs;
• To align the joints between the tiles, pieces of drywall can be inserted into the seams;
• Do not forget to regularly check the parallelism and evenness of the rows with a level;
• 10 hours after installation is completed, you can begin processing the seams. It is made with heat-resistant grout for wide joints. The composition is diluted with water until the consistency of sour cream.
• Then pieces of drywall are removed from the seams;
• The grout is applied using a construction gun. The spout should be cut at an angle of 60º so that the width of the hole is 8-10 mm;
• The seams are carefully filled with grout. It should not get on the slabs themselves or other surfaces.

Working with a pistol requires experience. So be very careful with it. If grout does get on the tiles, do not try to remove it immediately. You will only spread the composition over larger area. It's better to wait a little until the grout dries. This way you can carefully scrape it off.

• The direction of grout application can be any;
• Two hours later, you can move on to jointing, which will provide a finished look to this finish.
• Jointing is done with a 7-8 mm screwdriver or wire ring;
• After this, you need to walk along the seams with a finger wearing a clean glove.

The wooden floor in the bathhouse does not require additional finishing. A concrete floor involves laying ceramic tiles with a non-slip coating.

Laying begins from one of the corners. In this case, perfect evenness of the rows is not required, because the floor in the bathhouse is sloping towards the drain. But it’s still worth marking the approximate location of the tiles on the floor level before you start laying them.

The work is carried out in the following order:

• The solution is distributed on the floor with a spatula in accordance with the size of the tile;
• Using the teeth of a spatula, a pattern is imprinted on the solution, which ensures it reliable connection with tiles;
• The tiles are being laid out. During operation, its position is adjusted with a rubber hammer. Don't forget to form a slope! The tiles for the first row must be dry. It is advisable to pre-soak all other elements in water.
• Corner elements are cut to required sizes using a tile cutter;

It is not recommended to use non-natural materials for the interior decoration of a bathhouse. High temperatures and constant humidity force the use of only stress-resistant types of cladding for finishing. One of the classic ones is lining. You can find out how to line a bathhouse with clapboard inside by reading the article to the end. We will help the reader with the difficult task of interior finishing, but we will also tell you how to choose the material.

Steam room trimmed with linden clapboard, coated with heat-resistant oil

Linden lining should lie unpacked before finishing

Lining for the interior decoration of a bathhouse is selected depending on the purpose of a particular room, the degree of humidity in it, the temperatures used, etc. All material is divided according to several criteria: size, what it is made from, type of wood.

You can divide the material by size :

1. Classical. It is not wide in size; it is better to mount it vertically, since the horizontal position visually lowers the already low ceiling in the bathhouse. Besides horizontal mount prevents water from flowing down freely, and it accumulates in the connecting locks.
2. Eurolining. These are wider and heavier panels, more interesting in the design of the room and have the same theme quality characteristics like thin lining. On the back side of the eurolining there is a special cut that relieves stress in the product and over time the finish will not crack.

Based on their composition, the material is divided into: vinyl, plastic, wood and metal. For the bath the best option made of wood, the rest for finishing the facade.

Types of wood for making bath trim

It is important what type of wood the product is made from. For the bathhouse, wood trim with the lowest thermal conductivity is used: linden, aspen, abashi, cedar, alder. Moreover, you can take not any cedar, but only the northern one. It contains less resin and when heated, the walls and ceiling will not begin to cry. Larch species have a lower wood density and with tactile contact in the bathhouse, the lining will be more pleasant, even at high temperatures in the steam room. Such lining costs more, but the costs will be justified. Each of the considered types is better suited for various rooms baths

Aspen: has a beautiful reddish tint and increased moisture resistance. In terms of its durability, aspen can only be compared with larch. When in contact with water, aspen wood does not collapse, but rather hardens. It is better to use it to decorate a rest room or washing area. The only negative is the high price, due to which it is not recommended for use in the steam room and dressing room.

Linden: Lining has become traditional for finishing the inside of a bathhouse. Linden does not heat up at high temperatures and has a pleasant whitish color. But linden has a serious drawback - if not treated with antiseptics and protective compounds quickly begins to darken and rot.

Cedar: This conifer tree, but its structure is of low density, so it is often used for baths. Cedar has excellent antiseptic properties and emits a pleasant odor when heated. But it is not recommended to use it in a steam room, since it still contains some percentage of resin.

Alder: has a pleasant pinkish tint with a pleasant velvety texture. Holds temperature well and is not afraid of moisture. In baths can be used in any part.

When choosing lining for finishing a bath, it is better to take chamber drying Extra or AB grade. Since changes in temperature and humidity in the bath occur constantly, it is impossible to use material with inaccurate or curved shapes. But in the highest grades this is unacceptable.

Step-by-step description of the installation of lining inside baths

Before finishing, you need to decide whether only the walls or the ceiling will be coated. To do this, you can look at photos of finished works and settle on the design you like.

You need to sheathe the inside of the bathhouse starting from the ceiling. Only after this the walls. But first the walls need to be waterproofed and insulated.

Insulation of bath walls and ceilings

It is not necessary to insulate all the walls of the bathhouse, especially if it is a small summer log house measuring 3x3 m. In these, only the steam room is insulated. In other cases, the entire Russian bathhouse is from the inside, including the dressing room and rest room.

As insulation, you need to choose a fire-resistant material, such as bosalt wool. It’s better not to even consider all materials like polystyrene foam. The insulation is attached to a pre-prepared sheathing on which the vapor barrier is attached. Due to the large temperature difference, condensation may accumulate on the walls; a vapor barrier will protect the insulation.

Glassine should be secured on top of this structure. It will play the role of waterproofing. All seams are glued with a special water-repellent glue. Then everything is covered with foil, it will reflect heat and prevent steam from escaping. You need to fasten the foil between the sheathing using a construction stapler or buttons with an overlap of 10-15 cm.

Material processing

Before fastening, the lining must be unpacked and kept in a bath for 1-2 days. The fact is that manufacturers, in order to protect the material after chamber drying, pack it in an airtight film. And once in the natural environment, wood absorbs moisture from the air and swells a little.

After this, you need to choose how to process the material. It is better to take a composition intended directly for baths. These contain antipyrines and moisture-resistant components.

Mounting on bath walls and ceilings

They begin to fasten the lining with ceiling decoration. The first strip should be mounted opposite the door. There are two ways to attach links to the bathhouse:

1. Use small nails to the main sheathing in a groove at an angle of 45 0. Such fastening will be invisible and the ceiling will look like a single system. You shouldn’t hammer the lining tightly together; when it’s wet, it will swell and the entire structure will warp, or it will simply pull away from the wall in separate sections. By leaving a gap, the lining gains space for natural movement.
2. Use small nails through the lining to the sheathing. This method is more suitable for eurolining. First, small recesses are drilled in each attached link, and then a nail is driven into them. These places are covered with wood plugs and PVA glue.

Since the lining is thin, it is inconvenient to hammer in the entire nail with a hammer. To simplify, use a tool - a puncher

You need to start attaching the links to the wall from the most visible corner to the door. They install it using exactly the same methods as on the ceiling.

There should be a ventilated gap of 4-5 cm between the lining and the walls. A gap of 3-4 cm should also be left between the walls and the ceiling. In order for air to pass well under the lining, tonic strips are attached to the main sheathing. The finishing material will be attached to this second sheathing. The pitch of the sheathing is 40-50 cm. The direction is perpendicular to the fastening of the sheathing.

After fixing the bath, warm it up thoroughly and see what happens after it cools down. Incorrectly fastened links are additionally reinforced with nails.

Subtleties of finishing inside the bath

1. Do not mount the lining horizontally in the washing room and steam room. Splashes of water will enter the lock, and the lining will quickly darken. But if the design requires horizontal fastening, then the tenon should point upward.
2. All fasteners must be taken with a zinc coating, since iron will quickly rust if exposed to moisture.
3. All fastening corners and strips at the top need to be slightly sharpened at the bottom, so the water droplets will go down faster.
4. The planks are attached 4-5 cm from the base, so as not to block the ventilated gap.
5. Consider a ventilation system in the bathhouse, so the moisture will evaporate faster and the lining will last longer.
6. If the lining turns black, it must be immediately treated with bleaching compounds, for example, Senezh Sauna

We looked at how to do the interior decoration of a bathhouse with clapboards with your own hands. By following all the techniques and watching the thematic video in this article, even a beginner will be able to do the job with his own hands.

Having finished construction works on building a bathhouse on your own personal plot, you need to think about the interior decoration of the room. This is quite a serious job, but if you approach it correctly, then the interior decoration of the bathhouse (we will also try to show it to you in pictures) will seem like an exciting process.

Selecting material for wall decoration

Of course, the most important decision in this work will be the choice of finishing material. At the same time, you should not stop at one type of wood - a combination of different types of wood will bring special charm and comfort to the bathhouse. Also, when choosing a finishing material, you need to know its properties. Otherwise, staying in the bathhouse will bring disappointment instead of pleasure.

For finishing dressing rooms, rest rooms and other rooms that are not in contact with high temperatures, you can use pine. This material is quite cheap, easy to process and has a beautiful structure. It is highly not recommended to use pine in steam rooms, since when the wood is heated, resin is released, which will constantly cause a lot of inconvenience. As a rule, the steam room and washing room are decorated with linden or larch. This material retains color perfectly and, moreover, even in the hottest bath, touching the casing is impossible to get burned.

It is important to immediately think about where the shelves will be installed and where accessories for bath procedures will be placed. After all, they are the most important elements ancient ritual of ablution and have great importance. But you should not pile up bath equipment, especially if the room is small, otherwise the risk of injury when visiting the bath increases.

Bathroom wall decoration

Interior decoration in the bathhouse is not carried out with all types of wood. Moreover, there should be no linoleum or particle boards in the bathhouse. These are flammable materials that become toxic when heated, which is hazardous to health. Alder, larch, birch, aspen, poplar, cedar, abashi or linden are excellent for these purposes. Such wood does not heat up too much even in very hot rooms, since it has low thermal conductivity. No resinous substances are released from it, and after bath procedures everything dries quickly.

Wood for interior decoration of a bathhouse is not covered with paints or varnishes, since when heated, these chemical coatings will certainly begin to evaporate, poisoning the air and negatively affecting the human body.

Most often, the walls in the bathhouse are covered with clapboard. This process should occur after the walls are covered. mineral insulation and layer aluminum foil. Alternatively, foil tepofol. It performs the same functions, but is much more practical and easier to install. All this will seal the room.

It should also be taken into account that the lining should not be closely adjacent to the layer of foil or insulation. An air gap should form between them. This is what happens, because the lining is mounted on a pre-installed timber sheathing.

The beams (yards) are installed on the walls parallel to the floor at a distance of about 50 cm from each other. They use a level. After installing the frame, it is coated with an antiseptic. Before installation, the same is done with the lining. Begin laying the lining from the corner. Fastening is carried out using nails, staples or clamps.

If you fix the lining in the places of the locks with nails, they will remain invisible.

Bathroom floor installation

Once you have chosen the materials for the interior decoration of the bath, you can begin to work. The finishing process begins with the floor, which is mounted on joists.

The logs must be laid on brick pillars, which are installed on a sandy or concrete base.

The size of the log is 200x200 or 250x250 mm, the laying step can be chosen close to 1 m, since the load on the floor will be minimal. Floor boards are used tongue-and-groove or edged. It should be noted that in order to retain heat in the steam room, the floor in it must be at least 150 mm higher than the floor in the washing room.

The material used is hardwood boards about 30 cm thick. Both joists and floor boards are coated with an antiseptic to prevent the growth of fungus and mold.

If the use of wooden floors is allowed in rest rooms or locker rooms, then this is not recommended in the washing and steam rooms of the bathhouse. These places are constantly under the influence hot water and a pair, so the tree will quickly become unusable. In addition, a wooden floor will always be dirty as it is very difficult to clean.

Therefore, ceramic tiles would be the ideal material for finishing the floor in a steam room. Due to the fact that hot air rises, the temperature at floor level remains close to 30 degrees, which means it will not bring any discomfort. To prevent your feet from slipping on the tiles, you can build small wooden grates, which after bathing procedures are taken outside to dry in the fresh air.

The floor in the bathhouse is made with a slight slope (1:100) and equipped with a drain so that excess moisture does not stagnate.

Shelves in the bath

Any bathhouse must have shelves and benches on which you can sit or lie. As a rule, they are made in a round shape - this type is the most convenient and aesthetically pleasing. But the main requirement that is presented is their reliability and strength: the shelves should not creak or wobble. The material is softwood, which does not contain resin pockets and has a light and pleasant odor. You can make shelves yourself or buy ready-made ones in specialized stores. If you are wondering what the interior decoration of a bathhouse should look like, the photos below will demonstrate this.

The surface of the lining and boards for finishing the shelves is carefully cleaned and sanded so that it becomes perfectly smooth. Boards or clapboard are attached to pre-installed timber posts. The materials are nailed onto the seats with a small gap so that moisture does not stagnate and the wood dries well. For fastening, either wooden pegs or nails are used, which are driven in deeply so that touching them does not cause a burn.

The shelves in the bathhouse are arranged in two or three tiers. This is the so-called stepped design. The second option is an L-shaped arrangement of shelves: one wall has two steps, the other has only one. The “compartment” option, when the top shelf is located above the bottom, like on a train, is good for small spaces.

The dimensions of the shelves in the bathhouse depend on the size of the room. On average it is up to 2 m in length and 60-90 cm in width. From the top shelf to the ceiling there should be at least 1 - 1.20 m, from the top step to the middle and from the middle to the bottom - 0.4-0.6 m.

Ceiling decoration in the bathhouse

The material used for finishing the walls is also used for the ceiling. Since the temperature under the ceiling will be as high as possible, the material for finishing it should contain a minimum amount of resins. If you ignore this requirement, then the cost of the interior decoration of the bathhouse can increase significantly after the first steam bath. “The miser pays twice,” which means that the lining of the bathhouse ceiling will have to be changed. To avoid having to do this, immediately select quality materials- pine and spruce are definitely not suitable for a steam room. But in the dressing room they can be fully used.

Washing compartment in the bathhouse

The modern washing compartment in the bathhouse is a regular shower stall, equipped with a pair of shelves for storing various small accessories. When decorating the interior of a bathhouse with your own hands, and especially if we'll talk O washing department, moisture-resistant materials should be provided. These are wall tiles, self-leveling floors or tile- for the floor. These options for finishing the washing room are the most durable and practical. To prevent slippery walking on such floors, use wooden coasters or rubber mats.

Installation of lighting in a bathhouse

A bathhouse is a rather dangerous facility in terms of electrical safety, so the maximum permitted voltage supplying electric lamps should not exceed 12 W.

Most often, incandescent lamps and fiber optic systems are used in baths. LEDs are not entirely practical in this case, since they do not withstand high temperatures well.

Lamps used to illuminate all rooms must be hermetically sealed to prevent moisture from getting inside. The wires are laid under a layer of thermal insulation and are carefully insulated beforehand. Switches must be placed outside the steam room. Electrical wiring should be laid and secured to the walls and ceiling before the interior finishing of the bathhouse is completed. They do this in order to hide the wires from mechanical damage or destruction under the influence of hot steam and prolonged exposure to elevated temperatures. If the wires are laid on the surface, then they are hidden in a special box.

For baths, there are wooden lampshades that diffuse light. Lamps are placed in the bath on the sides under the ceiling or along the entire wall.

In some cases, lamps are placed under the backrests of the seats: the backrest is also decorative grille for a lamp. There should not be many lamps so that the light does not hit the eyes.

Fiber optic lighting systems for saunas emit beautiful diffused light. These lamps are safe because the lamp itself (projector) is located outside the steam room, and only light-conducting optical fibers are located in the steam room.

With the help of such a device you can create the most unimaginable lighting options in the bath and color combinations. Do you want the starry sky, do you want the northern lights, do you want the flame of fire. Such lighting is also economical and durable.

If you watch how the interior decoration of a bathhouse is carried out in the video, you will already know exactly what is being done and how. The whole process is quite labor-intensive, so you need to prepare well, study all the stages, select the right materials, and then proceed to the interior decoration of the bathhouse. The price for such work will no longer be of interest to you, since you can do everything yourself. What you get as a result will delight both you and your loved ones for many years.