Autumn planting fruit. When is the best time to plant seedlings of fruit trees in spring or autumn? When to plant trees on the site

To create a beautiful fruit-bearing garden on your site is the dream of any gardener. How difficult is this task? Firstly, you need to understand that all fruit trees are perennials, which means that the harvest can be harvested no earlier than in 3-7 years. And only if the tree is properly planted. In the article we will consider how the planting of seedlings should take place. fruit trees and what you need to pay attention to to avoid mistakes.

First of all, you need to choose the right place for planting a tree in the garden.

If you decide to plant fruit trees in your summer cottage, you need to choose the right place for planting and neighbors for the tree. It is best to make a diagram of the site, where the future location is clearly indicated. fruit crops and all points of the plan of forthcoming work.

First you need to decide on the varieties and types of trees. Then draw up a landing plan, indicating for each species its distinctive characteristics:

1. how high the tree reaches (to take into account the degree of shading of neighboring crops);
2. what type of tree crown (to avoid dense plantings);
3. when the tree bears fruit early period ripening, medium or late (to ensure proper care).

Also, an approximate distance between crops must be included in the scheme in order to avoid close proximity between tall sprawling trees and dwarf species (in this case, the latter will begin to wither over time). The distance can be calculated as follows:

1. Tall and medium-sized fruit trees with a wide crown should be located on a site with a perimeter of at least 10 m by 10 m.
2. Dwarf - 5 m by 5 m.
3. Columnar cultures - 2 m by 2 m.

Do not forget about correct selection neighbors, because not all cultures are able to get along calmly with each other. Here are some recommendations:

1. Pear, plum, cherry, quince will get along well next to the apple tree. Bad - cherries and viburnum.
2. Apple and mountain ash feel good next to the pear, but it is better to plant plums, viburnum and cherries away.
3. Cherry and plum grow well next to the apple tree, but away from the pear.

For ease of operation and to avoid errors, you can transfer the scheme to the site, and put cards with the name of crops on each seat.

The second stage - preparation for landing

At this stage, you need to choose seedlings, decide on the planting date and prepare the soil.

The soil

It is important to properly prepare the soil and choose a seedling.

If you decide to remove the old tree and plant a new one in its place, you need to wait at least 2-3 years. You can not plant a new crop immediately, because the soil did not have time to rest, certain substances remained in it that would prevent the new tree from gaining strength.

If the soil in the area is too acidic, you need to add to it dolomite flour. This can be done throughout the site, or only in the landing pits.

Landing time

Trees are planted in spring or autumn, depending on climatic conditions region or tree variety.

So, frost-resistant seedlings with an average or late ripening period (apple trees, cherries, pears) are planted in the fall. Heat-loving and non-frost-resistant trees (apricots, peaches, cherries, early apple and pear trees) - in spring.

Southern regions

Here, fruit trees are usually planted in autumn, when the leaves from mature trees have already fallen. Warm autumn weather is favorable for a young tree, the root takes root well and gives small roots. They supply the crop with water and nutrients. Thus, the seedling is prepared for wintering, which it tolerates well.

Planting trees in the spring in the southern regions is not recommended, because the spring weather is very unstable, it can abruptly turn into a hot dry summer. As a result, the seedling will begin to dry out, and even frequent watering will not save it.

Northern regions

Planting seedlings in autumn in these areas is not accepted, because frosts come early, the soil freezes, which means that the root will not have time to take root.

The best time for planting is in the spring, when the buds begin to bloom and the air temperature rises daily. The tree planted at this time will have time to take root, and during the summer it will grow the above-ground part, giving an annual increase. When autumn and winter come, the fruit tree will be completely ready to survive the winter.

middle lane

Planting crops in these regions can take place both in spring (before bud break) and in autumn (after leaf fall).

Selection of seedlings

When choosing fruit seedlings need to pay attention to root system. She happens:

1. open (it is better to use for planting in the fall to track the condition of the roots and cut them if necessary);
2. closed (more suitable for spring planting when the ground is warm enough).

The main roots should have many small adventitious roots, which will first begin to take root. Sections on the roots should be white, or with a pink or yellow tint. But by no means dry - such a tree is not viable. The age of the seedling should be no more than 1-2 years.

If the seedling was bought in early autumn and there are still leaves on it, they should be cut off. Otherwise, they will evaporate moisture, which will prevent the tree from taking root. Purchased late autumn trees need to be buried in a bag of sand and left until spring.

In the spring, when buying, be sure to check if there are live buds on the branches. And it is better not to buy plants with abundant foliage, because it does not make sense to plant them in the same season - the leaves will take moisture from the roots.

The third stage - landing

First of all, prepare the landing pits. It is better to do this 6-8 months before planting. The walls should be sheer, loose, standard size- 80 cm by 80 cm. Later, when planting, the size of the pit is adjusted to the roots of the seedling. Next, the hole needs to be filled in layers:

• peat;
• manure;
• a mixture of fertilizer and sand.

Layers fall asleep until a mound 20 cm high is formed on top (the soil will shrink).

The seedling is placed vertically in the prepared hole, carefully distributing the roots on the mound.

The tree is also prepared in advance by dipping it in a solution of a root growth stimulator for 15-20 hours. Before planting, you need to inspect all the roots and branches, removing old and broken ones.

Stages of planting fruit trees in the country:

1. Lay drainage at the bottom of the prepared pit (rubble, pebbles, branches), sprinkling it with a layer of soil or sand.
2. Dig up the mixture of soil that was in the hole, then fill it back up to make a small mound.
3. Stick a wooden peg in the center, which will serve as a support for the seedling.
4. Place a seedling on a mound, straighten the roots and cover two-thirds with soil, periodically shaking the tree so that the soil fills the voids.
5. Pour a bucket of water, let it soak. Then fill the hole with the remaining soil to the brim.
6. Form small mounds around the perimeter so that the water does not spread.
7. Pour 2 more buckets of water and mulch the soil, leaving a little free space at the trunk.

Sprinkling the tree with earth, you need to monitor the position of the root neck (the place where the stem passes into the root with a change in color). After shrinkage of the soil, the neck should be at ground level (the same applies to grafted crops - the graft is above the root collar and, accordingly, should not be underground after planting).

If the root system of the seedling is closed, they plant it, transferring it from the container, along with a clod of earth, into a prepared pit.

If groundwater is located close to the site, the drainage layer in the pit is made high, up to 40 cm. Then a high mound is poured, about 70 cm, and strengthened with boards so that it does not spread. Then soil is added, a seedling is planted in the center and sprinkled. This method landing on a high mound is used if groundwater is located at a level of 1-1.5 m from the ground.

The rules for planting fruit trees are not so complicated, and if you use all the recommendations, you can grow a good fruit-bearing garden that will delight you for years.

Fruit trees in the same place can grow and bear fruit for ten or more years. I would like to immediately note that planting trees can be carried out both in autumn and in spring, the main thing in this matter is proper planting. After all, the mistakes that you can make at the beginning will be very difficult to correct in the future, not to mention the fact that some of them cannot be corrected at all.

To be able to avoid these errors, you need to:

1) Well prepare the soil;

2) Correctly place the plants on the site;

3) Choose varieties that are more suitable for your area;

4) Comply with all the rules necessary for planting tree seedlings;

5) Provide timely care for seedlings after planting;

For planting fruit trees, a site with a slope of no more than 5-8 °, while protected from the wind, is best suited.

It is not recommended to plant in a closed pit (saucer), regardless of whether you plant them in autumn or spring. This is due to the fact that cold air stagnates in them, which is especially dangerous when spring frosts(during flowering).

Best of all, fruit plants can grow where tree species (maple, oak, ash) grow.

An important condition for choosing the most suitable site is and level ground water. For example, when planting pome species (pears, apple trees), groundwater should be no closer than 2-2.5 m from the surface soil layer, and in cases with cherries or plums, this distance should be at least 1.5-2 m.

If the groundwater is above this distance, the development process will be very weak, namely, the one-year growth (in cases where the planting was carried out in the fall) will not have time to mature and will simply freeze out during winter frosts. It is not uncommon for the tops of trees to dry up.

If it is impossible to drain the area for planting, it is recommended to plant tree seedlings on mounds with a height of 40-50 cm and a width of 2-3 m. For mounds, it is necessary to use the top layer of soil, which is well cultivated and fertilized.

For an apple tree, light chernozem, deep soddy and sandy loamy soil is best suited, and for a pear - loose loamy, nutritious soil, for plums - fertilized clayey, provided with moisture, for cherries - light sandy loamy.

Determination of the soil on garden plot. Depending on the mechanical composition, soils can be divided into - clayey, silty loams, sandy loams, sandy loams, sandy, etc.

In light soil, as a rule, the amount of nutrients contained is slightly less than in heavy soil.

Soil analysis is carried out in special agrochemical laboratories at the MTS. But in order to determine the mechanical composition of the soil suburban area you can use this table:

How to prepare the site when planting trees in the fall?

Usually, fruit trees are planted in pits, but in order to improve the growth and development of the plant, before planting, the soil must be completely cultivated (dug) to a depth of 40-60 cm. In cases with podzolic soil, this depth must be reduced.

If planting will be done in the fall, then the pits are best prepared in spring, and if in the spring - in the autumn.

Digging holes should have a rounded shape with sheer walls.

Planting trees in autumn

When planting trees, both in autumn and spring, the distance between pears and apple trees should be 6x6 m or 5x6 m, and in cases with plum and cherry - 3x4 m.

Landing itself must be taken responsibly. As already mentioned at the beginning, in many respects from proper fit and the success of survival, growth and, most importantly, fruiting will depend.

It is also necessary to remember that the younger the seedling, the easier it will be to plant. Also, young seedlings take root much better.

A lot of gardeners, along with vigorous plants, also plant dwarf varieties.

For those who do not know - dwarf trees are plants grafted on rootstocks that have weak growth.

For example, apple trees that are grafted on low-growing rootstocks receive a code name - dwarf, differing both in strength of growth and in some other characteristics.

Unlike apple trees that were grafted on a vigorous rootstock, in which the period of growth and development lasts from 70-80 years, dwarf apple trees can grow for 20-25 years.

But dwarf species have their advantages. They can bear fruit as early as 3-4 years (some varieties even earlier), compared to vigorous ones, in which fruiting begins at 6-12 years.

Dwarf species are more productive, the fruits are larger and better colored. On the site, they can be placed at a distance of 3x3 m, which means that, compared with vigorous ones, they can be planted twice as many in the same area, and therefore the yield is doubled.

It is necessary to plant and care for dwarf species in the same way as with ordinary trees.

Landing dates . In the middle lane of our country, landing is best done in early spring, that is, until the seedlings began to bud. But when planting trees in the fall, you can also get very good results.

IN autumn period planting can be done in early October, that is, 3-4 weeks before the onset of frost.

How to prepare seedlings for planting?

Preparing a seedling for planting. The dashes show the places where branches and roots are pruned.

The first thing we will need to do is to carefully examine the roots of the seedling, and in cases where diseased, dried, broken and damaged parts are found, then carefully cut them out with a garden knife.

The ends of healthy roots also need to be trimmed (trimmed) a little.
Remember, the longer and better branched the roots, the better the seedling will take root, and will develop better in the future.

Each branch of the seedling crown is shortened by about 1/3 of the length. When shortening the branches, we will need to cut them into the so-called external (external) kidney. When carrying out this procedure, the side shoots will begin to develop to the sides, and therefore the crown of the tree will not thicken.

Pruning of branches can be done both before planting and after it.

In the center of the board there should be a triangular cutout to a depth of 4 cm. Similar cutouts are still on both ends of the board, at a distance of 75 cm from the middle one.

Fruit tree planting scheme

How to protect the garden from the wind?

A necessary condition for the successful growth, development and productivity of trees is also protection from the winds. Protective plantings must be planted simultaneously with the planting of fruit plants, and even better if you do this 2-3 years before planting.

It is necessary to arrange horticultural plantings approximately according to the scheme, as indicated in the figure below. In addition to planting garden protection plantings, we will also need to fence our site.

In cases with collective garden plots in some areas, garden protection plantings may not be needed. In such a situation, your garden array can be protected from the wind by plants planted along the road, alley, or along the border of the land.

It is also necessary to remember that the species of horticultural plants used must be resistant to the climatic conditions of your region, durable, fast-growing and with a fairly dense (not sprawling) crown.

Excessive root shoots should not come from them, and it is very important to have diseases and pests in common with fruit trees

How to care for a young garden?

A young garden needs constant and thorough care. In cases with household and collective garden plots, some vegetables (potatoes, strawberries, etc.) are also grown in the aisles, and some gardeners even grow currants and gooseberries. But in no case should raspberries, tobacco, sunflowers, corn be sown or planted between rows.

These plants on fruit trees can have negative effects.

In a plot with apple trees, aisles can be used for 10-15 years, and with cherries or plums - 7-8 years.

But at the same time, one should also not forget that inter-row crops should not occupy near-trunk circles.

The width of the near-stem circle depends on the age of the plant itself. In the first 2 years after planting, the width of the trunk circles should be about 2 meters, and every 2 years the width of the circles increases by 0.5 m.

It must also be remembered that the trunk circles during the entire period of growth and development of the plant must be in a loose state, and also cleared of weeds.

You will need to loosen the soil 3-4 times.

The last loosening can be done in early August.

After each irrigation or past rain, the soil is necessarily loosened to a depth of about 5 cm.

For mulching the near-stem circle, you can use peat or humus (thin layer).

In autumn, trunk circles need to be dug up (to a depth of 10-15 cm), but at the same time, you will need to try not to damage the roots, which is especially important near the trunk.

In the early spring period, we re-dig the trunk circles, but this time to a slightly shallower depth.

In areas where fruit trees are not sufficiently moistened, they will need good watering in the first years after planting.

During the entire spring period and in the first half of summer, trees need watering in the amount of 3-4 times. In dry areas, the amount of watering is doubled.

For one young tree, one watering will require from 2 to 4 buckets of water (depending on the amount of precipitation). As the age of the tree increases, so does the rate of watering.

How to take care of a fertile garden?

soil care . The soil in the trunk circle of a fruit tree, as well as in ordinary strips, in the early spring and autumn (after leaf fall), must be dug up using a shovel or garden pitchfork for this purpose.

But at the same time, you also need to try not to damage or expose the root system. In early spring, before digging, it is necessary to apply mineral and organic fertilizers.

Watering . The first watering is done in the spring, that is, before the buds on the trees have blossomed. The second 12-15 days after the end of the flowering period. The third - 15-20 days before the harvest period. With a little rainy period, watering is also necessary in the fall.

There are several ways to water trees: watering into circular grooves (grooves) made around the circumference of the near-stem circle, or into holes that can be punched with a crowbar.

After the water has been absorbed and the soil has dried out somewhat, we loosen it and use manure, humus, and peat to shade it.

How to thin out tree crowns? As the crown grows, the tree becomes denser. In this regard (in a thickened crown), branches and leaves receive insufficient sunlight, the consequences of which may be poor ripening and insufficient coloring of the fruit.

Diseases and pests in a dense crown can cause sensitive damage. Therefore, we will need to remove unnecessary branches.

Crowns are thinned out in autumn (after leaf fall) or early spring (before the start of the sap flow period).

Thinning is carried out as follows: at the beginning, we need to cut out all the shrunken, diseased or frost-damaged branches.

Then we proceed to the removal of old branches that have ceased to bear fruit. Next, cut off the broken branches (below the break point, to a healthy place).

In cases where there are two branches that interfere with each other's development, then the less valuable of them is removed or shortened.

It is also necessary to cut out branches that grow inside the crown, as well as thicken it.

We will need to remove the cut branches from the garden plot and burn them.

A sharp garden saw can serve as a tool for pruning trees: the edges of the wounded area garden knife smoothly clean and coat with putty, but you can also paint over them with paint (ocher on natural drying oil).

Every spring, all gardeners are overcome by "planting disease". It begins as soon as the snow melts, and it is hardly possible to get rid of its symptoms until the end of May. Occasionally there are summer residents who do not run around the markets and nurseries in the spring in search of seedlings - they planted everything in the fall. So when is the best time to plant trees - in the fall or in the spring?

When can trees be planted?

Theoretically, trees can be planted all year round as long as the ground is not frozen. The most important thing for a planted tree is the fullest possible contact of the roots with the ground. If the soil is frozen, it will not be possible to compact it enough to provide such contact. If the roots of the tree hang in the void, it will not be able to replenish the moisture evaporated by the aerial part. After all, the fact that trees “sleep” in winter does not mean that they do not lose moisture.

If you plant a tree in the middle of summer, for example, the biggest problem there will again be increased evaporation of moisture, which, however, can be replenished by frequent watering.

Thus, trees can be successfully planted at any time of the year.

The main thing is to land correctly and provide thorough care. True, why create additional difficulties for yourself and the seedling, if there are optimal timing landings that reduce these difficulties to a minimum?

When is the best time to plant trees?

The period of physiological or forced rest, when the trees "sleep" in anticipation favorable conditions for vegetation, and is optimal for planting. "Hibernation" begins as soon as foliage falls from the trees, and lasts until the buds open. The tree does not care when exactly during this period it will be planted. However, there are a number of factors that are important for the gardener. Let's consider these factors in more detail.
Cons and pros of autumn planting

So, consider the reasons why you should not plant trees in the fall:
If the winter is exceptionally cold (as it was literally two years ago), the planted trees may freeze slightly. In addition, they can be damaged by heavy snow, ice, wind and other weather disasters.
Trees planted in the fall can be damaged by rodents or simply stolen if your garden is left unattended during the winter.

At the same time, there are significant advantages of autumn planting seedlings:
In autumn, there is a rich choice of planting material, since it is during this period that nurseries begin selling seedlings.
If you plant trees in autumn, one watering will be enough, coolness and frequent rains will take care of your pets even without your participation.
If the winter is not too severe, the soil will not freeze to the depth of the roots. In this case, the planted tree will grow suction roots over the winter and heal the wounds caused by the transplant.
In the spring, the gardener-gardener has a lot of work: he needs not only to plant trees, but also to take care of the old garden, prepare the garden for planting, and so on and so forth. It's not so bad to do something in advance, freeing up time for other worries.

As you can see, there are more pluses in the autumn planting than minuses. So if you've been planting trees in the fall, keep doing the same. Now let's see if you should succumb to the "planting disease" in the spring and plant a couple more seedlings.

Should I plant trees in the spring or not?

Why is it problematic to plant trees in spring:
During spring planting, it is necessary to water the seedling twice: during planting and a day later, loosen the ground and cover with mulch. Further, you will also have to water the planted tree often, especially if the weather is hot or windy.
If the spring planting is late, then the planted tree will have a significantly reduced chance of surviving. If the tree has not yet taken on, as it should, and the sap flow has already begun, then it will only come out by providing special care, which not every amateur gardener can do.
In the spring, the market for planting material is poor - much is sold out in the fall.

Benefits of planting trees in spring:
During the winter, you have the opportunity to prepare theoretically, draw up a planting plan, on the basis of which you can already order seedlings - there will be no hasty decisions.
Winter is not such a “dead” season for a gardener: you can prepare pits, tools, and generally put the garden in order without rushing.
If you can't secure the site, you won't have to worry about planting trees all winter.
If you plant trees in the spring, they get one more year of vegetation - if you plant in the fall, you would have a crop a year later.

As you can see, there are more pluses here. So, if your “hands itch” to plant a tree, plant without looking back at those who mumble that it’s not right. That's right, this way, and that way. After weighing all the pros and cons, choose the most suitable time for you to plant trees.

Be sure to take into account local weather conditions and features. Residents of the southern regions, of course, are better off planting trees in the fall. There, the autumn is long and warm, and the spring is too quickly replaced by a hot summer. And the northerners better watch out for the harsh winter and plant trees in the spring. However, if you did not have time to plant something in March-April, postpone it until the fall. And if you don’t have time in the fall, fill in the gap next spring. Most importantly, plant trees and take care of them with love!

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How to plant a tree?

I hope you don’t think that planting a tree means digging a hole, sticking a seedling in there and filling it with earth?

In scientific terms, for a successful planting process, a number of rules must be followed under which the tree could form an active functional root system as quickly as possible, i.e. so that it takes root and receives the necessary substances and moisture for the development of the crown.

I wanted to talk about these rules, and for this you need to answer 3 questions, namely, what? How? When? Almost? Where? When?)

What to consider when buying, unless of course you buy this seedling, and do not dig it up in the forest or in a neighboring area. I think it's worth highlighting a few simple rules:

Acquire in a specialized horticultural economy or a large firm, where you can get the necessary advice.

It is desirable that there be a label indicating the variety and breed.

So that the seedling does not have any distortions of the crown, a crooked trunk, an uneven distribution of branches along the trunk. And at least there must be 3 skeletal branches.

There should be no signs of injury or disease.

If the seedling is in a container, then the roots should not break through the drainage hole.

If the seedling is in a package, then the earthen ball should be dense and proportional to the above-ground part.

Seedlings with an open root system should not have damage on the roots, signs of disease, the roots should not be overdried. And also all the leaves of such seedlings must be removed.

When to plant? Here I see two options:

In autumn. The leaves have fallen off and the tree does not need to spend energy on feeding the crown, so it is engaged in the development of a new habitat. But one thing - winter-hardy varieties are planted in autumn, for example, apple trees, pears, berry and ornamental shrubs.

Spring. More heat-loving varieties are best planted in early spring, otherwise they will not have enough time to prepare for winter. This applies to apricots, cherries, plums, cherry plums, low-hardy varieties of pears and apple trees.

The time of planting a large-sized plant differs from, for example, the planting of lilac, which is planted from the second half of July to the beginning of September.

P.S. In this case, I meant the landing time in those areas where summer and relatively good weather last only 3-4 months.

P.P.S. Seedlings in containers can be planted in the summer, the main thing is that the roots are not overdried.

And now the landing itself, only 9 stages:

Designate a landing site. Here we think and plan the development of the future tree for years to come, so that it does not interfere with anything and has the opportunity to grow unhindered. We outline a place and designate a pit, which should be 2 times as wide as an earthen clod with roots.

Dig a hole. We separate the top excavated fertile layer from the bottom and pour them on opposite sides of the pit.

Loosen the bottom of the hole. This is done in order to make it easier for the roots to go deeper into the lower layers of the soil.

Fertilize planting soil. The top layer of soil that we separated is diluted with mature compost or humus (Where to prepare compost can be found here). Add more pre-prepared fertile soil and mineral fertilizers. The lower unused layer of soil can be used to fill holes in the area, if any)

Drive in the stake. We install the support even before planting so as not to damage the roots, as a rule, it is needed for large plants.

Place the seedling in the hole. At the bottom of the pit we pour a little prepared earth and set the seedling vertically. At the same time, we do not sink the root system into the soil (we do not bury it), the root ball of the earth should only be lightly sprinkled with earth on top. After all the work, the soil level in the planting pit, taking into account future precipitation, should be about 5 centimeters higher than the level of the rest of the site.

Fill the hole with earth. I think it is obvious that before filling the hole, you need to remove what the root ball of the earth was wrapped in, it can be burlap, paper, etc.

Tie the seedling to the support. In the form of a figure eight, tie a seedling to the support with soft twine. The twine should not cut hard into the bark of the tree.

Water the plant well. We compact the earth around the trunk, and along the edges of the pit we make a roller for irrigation. We water the near-trunk circle well (so that the roots come into contact with the soil), after which we sprinkle (mulch) it with peat or humus by 5 cm.

How to plant a fruit tree?

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When is the right time to plant trees and shrubs?

It is preferable to plant deciduous trees at the time of the vegetation break, that is, in early spring before the leaves bloom or in the fall after the foliage has fallen.

The best time for autumn planting is mid-September and all of October, but you should focus on specific weather conditions.

Spring planting is carried out after thawing of the soil, which in temperate latitudes usually occurs in mid-April - early May.

On wet, heavy and compacted soils, it is recommended to plant trees in the spring.

In areas with early harsh winters, it is also preferable to plant seedlings in the spring.

Heat-loving trees and shrubs are planted in the spring after late spring frosts, as when planted in autumn they may not survive the winter.

When planting trees in the spring, you need to make sure that the ground has thawed and does not have frozen areas.

Conifers and evergreens should be planted in late autumn, late summer or early autumn, so that they have time to take root in winter time fed the above-ground part with moisture.

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Pit preparation and seedling planting

What trees to plant in autumn? This question is the most popular autumn time. And the soils of all regions are different, and the weather conditions are different in the regions of our country. What should be done when planting young seedlings, in spring or autumn? Let's try to understand this issue in more detail.

Theoretically, you can always plant, as long as the ground is not frozen. But if you start to take into account the accompanying natural climatic factors, then you can get confused. All the same, it will be more comfortable for each type of tree to take root in a new place under certain conditions. Now it is autumn in the yard, so it would be more logical to consider autumn varieties trees.

Positive and negative factors when planting a tree in autumn

Planting trees and shrubs in the fall has its own characteristics, which are worth understanding. When the beds and harvesting were finished, the auspicious free time for planting seedlings. There is still some time before frost, during which the tree will get used to the new conditions a little.

Benefits of an autumn planting:

Benefit.

In autumn there big choice from nurseries and from private gardeners. As a rule, leaves may be present on the branches, their appearance, as well as the appearance of the roots, makes it possible to judge the health of the seedling, and there may even be fruits that can also be immediately appreciated.

Simplicity.

Now a planted tree can be watered occasionally, that's, in fact, all the care for this stage. Mild autumn and rains will help to take root and adapt to a new place. The roots will continue to grow until the soil temperature is +4C, during which time the absorbent roots will have time to stretch out, and in the spring they will immediately go to active growth, unlike newly planted trees, which need time to adapt.

Saving time.

In the spring, the chores in the garden and vegetable garden will be so full, and we will also spend time planting, while in the fall we plant in the time already free from active work.

If you live in the southern regions, then there are generally mild winters, the ground is free from freezing, and the trees are not in danger of freezing.

Cons of the autumn landing:

• If winter comes early, frost can kill young trees.
• Snowfalls, icing can break fragile branches.
• Both in late autumn and winter, rodents can damage seedlings.
• Newly planted trees in the absence of the owners can simply be dug / stolen.

Here we are talking about which trees are best planted in the fall. Unless the varieties are winter-hardy, then do not plant in the fall:

• cherry.
• Almond.
• Apricot.
• Apple tree.
• pear.
• Plum.
• Peach.
• Sweet cherry.

If seedlings were brought from the south, they should not be planted before winter either, they simply may not survive it.

Trees with shrubs that take root well in autumn planting

• Winter-hardy varieties of pears and apple trees.
• Coniferous trees.
• Aronia.
• Chestnut.
• Currant.
• Nut.
• Gooseberry.
• Raspberries.
• Birch.
• Honeysuckle.

The best time for autumn planting

Of course, it is worth observing the timing of planting seedlings of fruit trees in the fall. Look at the weather, usually the time favorable for planting is the end of September and the whole of October - the month, but if the autumn turned out to be long and warm, then even the beginning and middle of November will do.

• In the middle zone of our country favorable landing falls between mid-September and mid-October.
• In the northern regions, the beginning of September - the beginning of October.
• In the south - from October to mid-November.

Focus on the weather. Every year, due to it, the deadlines can be shifted in both directions. The seedling will let you know that it is time to replant it, throwing off the last foliage.

If you suddenly missed the landing time?

What to do if there was no money at the right time, did not find the right variety, waited for the last sale, and chose another variety that is undesirable to plant in the fall?

There are ways to help you out in a similar situation. It is only necessary to create conditions for the seedling for wintering. It can be done:

• I dug into the ground.
• snowing method.
• Store the tree in a damp cellar or basement.

Snowing.

Having properly packed, covering the seedling with a thick layer of snow, which will protect it from freezing, it can be stored until spring and planted when the frosts finally recede and the earth warms up.

Basement storage.

We moisten the roots and lower the tree into a container with peat, which is also moist. At a temperature of 0C - 10C and with a humidity of 87 - 90%, there is every chance to survive until spring, just do not forget to water the container with peat once a week.

Now you have learned which fruit trees can be planted in the fall. For the middle zone, the Urals and Siberia on autumn planting zoned varieties are best suited, they are already acclimatized and will quickly take root. If the varieties are Ural and Siberian selection, then this is a guaranteed success when planting, these apple and pear trees, cherry plum, mulberry and mountain ash will survive the winter without any problems.

In the southern latitudes, landing in autumn - the best option, because the mild and warm autumn will give the trees abundant watering, while the spring there is quickly replaced by a burning summer.

If the seedlings are dug up before the last foliage has flown, then this is a risk group in terms of freezing in winter due to unripened shoots.

And if tempted to beautiful view, bought a seedling with not fallen leaves. then it will be unripened, and even overdried, through the leaves there is an intense loss of moisture.

Finally

From this article, you were able to find out until what time you can plant trees in the fall. If you correctly guess the landing time, then nature will do everything itself, the main thing is not to interfere with it. A well established tree long years will delight you, and even your grandchildren, with rich and tasty harvests.

" Trees

A transplant for a plant is a traumatic operation, which is best done during a period of natural dormancy, then it takes place practically “under anesthesia”. This is especially true for seedlings with bare roots.

Most fruit trees are best planted on permanent place after the completion of the vegetation processes - in the fall. Tentatively, this is a month before the freezing of the topsoil. Some trees are best planted in the spring. Let's talk in more detail about the timing of planting seedlings of fruit trees, how to fertilize and properly care for them.

Determining that a tree is ready for transplanting is very simple. The main criterion is that the tree dropped half of the leaves. They are guided when planting apple trees, as well as all berry bushes.

The roots of bushes and trees do not have a dormant period; they continue to grow in winter. Optimum temperature for rooting +4 o C and above. Given that the ground does not freeze so soon, root growth continues almost without a winter break.

Varieties of apple and pear trees with insufficient frost resistance, as well as all stone fruits(cherries, sweet cherries, plums, apricots and peaches), best planted in spring. Moreover, it is necessary to do this as early as possible - until the moisture has left and the buds have not blossomed.

In any case, the landing pits are prepared in advance - for spring planting, for example, from autumn (August - September). Extreme minimum term for the preparation of pits - 2 weeks.

How to choose a seedling for planting in the suburbs and other regions

In order not to throw money away and grow a really fruitful fruit tree, the choice of a seedling should be approached with understanding and responsibly.

Choosing a seedling with an open root system

1. First of all, variety must be zoned.
2. To increase the likelihood of buying the desired variety, buy them in a specialized nursery, and not "from the hands" by the road.
3. Roots must be no shorter than 25 centimeters fresh and undamaged. The more branched thin roots, the higher the likelihood of success.
4. On the roots there shouldn't be any bumps is a symptom of root cancer. The cut of the root should be white.
5. Attentively inspect the trunk for cortical damage.

When buying a seedling with leaves, carefully cut them off - the seedling will not lose moisture.

Wrap the roots with wet burlap or newspaper in several layers. If the seedling is still dry, immerse it in water for a day or two, until the bark returns to its fresh appearance.

You can treat the roots with stimulants before planting(Kornevin or Heteroauxin) according to the instructions.

Especially make sure that the roots are not soaked. These areas will probably rot - they must be carefully removed to a healthy part.

Choosing a seedling in a container

Such planting material expensive. If you choose it correctly, you can land at any time convenient for you. Survival guaranteed...

How not to make a mistake

The easiest way to check how long a tree has been growing in a pot is to gently lift the plant by the root part. If the earth ball is removed along with the roots, you need to buy - the seedling "lives" in the container for a long time.

Additionally, it will help you make sure you make the right choice. a root that has grown through a hole in the bottom of a container.

When choosing a container seedling, of the two - take the younger one in age. Its roots are most certainly not pruned before planting in a pot for sale.

The tree is installed in a prepared planting hole, without violating the integrity of the earth coma. Watered and covered with prepared soil mixture without deepening the seedling.

Rules for planting a seedling in a garden plot at different times of the year?

The choice of a place for planting a fruit tree - it is produced once and for all, success or disappointment depends on this choice. If the place turns out to be unsuitable for a fruit tree, after a few years it will be impossible to correct the mistake.

Choose a sunny spot to plant, sheltered from the wind.. The close location of groundwater is unacceptable - a tree can successfully develop for 5-7 years, and when its roots reach the aquifer, it will die from decay. At this age, replanting a tree is already incredibly difficult.

Preparatory activities

Even the choice of soil is not so critical for planting a fruit tree. By improving the soil structure and correct dressings almost any area is suitable for gardening.

Landing hole preparation

Even in the case of fertile black soil, it is necessary to start planting a tree by preparing a landing pit. It must be dug at least a month before planting a seedling. During this time, the dug up earth will have time to compact. This is a factor of extraordinary importance - there will be no problems with the correct deepening of the root neck of the seedling.

Root neck - where is it?

It would be useful to clarify what this “root neck” is. Often, inexperienced gardeners take the grafting site for the root collar, and as a result, they deepen the seedling by an extra 10 centimeters. In fact, this is the area where the trunk meets the root. At this point, the dark color of the root turns into a lighter bark of the bole.

The most common mistake is landing in a fresh hole. Strictly speaking, it's not in the pit itself. Until the earth sags, it is very difficult to properly deepen the root collar of the seedling. It is known that it can neither be deepened nor exposed - the tree will not be able to develop normally in both cases.

After planting, the seedling should not experience a lack of nutrients, at least until it takes root. At this stage, very often, out of good intentions, gardeners “overfeed” seedlings with fertilizers.

It is especially dangerous for young plants to add fresh organic matter and too much mineral fertilizer to the pit. These two extremes act equally depressingly on soil microorganisms, namely, they help the roots of the seedling to absorb nutrients from the soil and air.

1. For a conditioned seedling of 1-2 years of age, it is necessary dig a hole about 80x80 centimeters in size and the same depth. In the process of digging a hole, fold the upper, more fertile layer separately from the lower one. Remove all stones and roots of perennial weeds. The bottom of the pit must be dug up with a shovel bayonet.
2. To the bottom of the pit to improve the water balance, it is desirable pour last year's leaves, house debris, wood ash. This will not only be good drainage, but also an excellent additional top dressing for the tree.
3. into the pit add 2 buckets of compost or humus, and proceed as follows.
4. One bucket is mixed with the more fertile soil of the upper layer and poured into the bottom of the pit. You install a seedling on this mound, straighten its roots and pour the second part of the compost directly onto the roots. At the same time, shake the seedling so that there are no air voids that are not filled with soil.
5. I water well t (minimum 2 buckets of water).
6. The pit is filled to the top. For this, only the upper fertile layer is used.
7. From the bottom layer of the earth form a root hole around the trunk circle.
8. Water again into the formed hole and cover it with mulch(peat, rotten sawdust, foliage, wood chips), this will not only retain water, but also prevent a dense crust from forming.

When planting, it is better to deepen the root neck insufficiently. This option is easy to fix by pouring earth into the trunk circle.

Planting scheme for fruit trees and shrubs

The density of planting trees depends not only on the species, but also on:

• type of root stock of a seedling,
• way of further formation,
• site planning features.

The most common mistake novice gardeners make is planting too tightly.. It is very difficult to see trees at least 2.5 meters high in twigs of one-year-old seedlings in 10 years. The recommended scheme for planting shrubs and trees is given below.

and pears on vigorous rootstocks are located at a distance of 5 meters, medium-sized - 3.5-4 meters, dwarf - 2.5-3 meters. Columnar forms can be planted even after 0.5 meters in a row.

No less distance should be laid when planting seedlings near the house, this especially applies to tall fruit forms, and especially pay close attention to the location- over time, it will be a 10-meter sprawling tree.

To rationally use the area between the seedlings, plant currant bushes between the rows for the time being (in 10 years it will still have to be uprooted - the bush will grow old) or garden strawberries.

Caring for a newly planted tree in spring and autumn

After planting a young tree, in addition to feeding the seedling, there must be proper aftercare for it. The first time after planting, most seedlings need watering. Among experienced gardeners old school there is an opinion that seedlings need watering for 2 years, even if they have taken root successfully. Even trees planted in autumn need to be watered until frost.. Only then will the tree grow strong and healthy.

No matter how great the desire to try the harvest from a young tree, the first flowers must be removed. This is especially true for the first year after planting, otherwise the tree will give all its strength to the first few fruits, and it will not be able to grow the root system and a developed crown.

In addition to watering, a young tree requires preventive measures to protect against pests and fungal diseases. Do not bypass them during each garden treatment. The loss of branches and leaves from pests or disease can be critical for a young tree.

Preparing young trees for winter includes:

• mulching trunk circle,
• whitewashing the trunk for the prevention of solar and frosty winter burns,
• rodent protection and hares.

The mulching layer must necessarily cover the near-stem circle, not only in the summer to preserve moisture in the root zone. Mulch is especially necessary in the autumn-winter period. Even under conditions Middle lane and Moscow region, the roots of a tree or shrub seedling may suffer from freezing, especially if the snow cover is negligible.

Fertilizers and top dressing for a fruit tree

A well-filled planting hole provides nutrition for a planted tree for 2 years. In practice, it only needs watering.

Fertilizing the garden is carried out according to the established rule:

1. spring- nitrogen and organic fertilizers,
2. autumn- potassium and phosphorus.

Fertilization is usually carried out in the near-stem circles in early spring (1) or autumn (2).

Fertilizers are applied to the root zone at the rate of 1 hectare of the garden:

• organic 300-500 kg (every 2-3 years),
• inorganic N:P:K in proportions 1.5:1:0.6 (in terms of kg of chemically pure substance).

In addition to root dressings, gardeners often practice foliar dressings. In this case, the so-called “tank mixtures” are used - joint solutions chemicals, for example, against pests and a complex of foliar dressings.

Foliar dressings, unlike root dressings, have an effect almost instantly. Through the surface of the leaves they are absorbed garden plant already 4 hours later. This process is especially active on the underside of the sheet.

Another "plus" of such processing- fertilizer consumption is minimal. For example, for nitrogen fertilizing, a solution of 1 tablespoon of saltpeter is prepared for 1 bucket of water.

The only inconvenience is that it cannot be processed immediately before the rain.

Another important point, it is better to “underfeed” the garden with any fertilizer ...

Conclusion

The optimal time for planting fruit trees depends on many factors:

• From the climatic conditions of your region.
• From the winter hardiness of the seedling.
• From the type of seedling - container or with a "bare root".

In order not to get confused, Ukrainian gardeners have an old rule, which is all the more necessary for colder regions- all stone fruits are planted in spring, pome fruits - in autumn.