Don't know how to level the walls in the bathroom? Review of modern methods and recommendations on technology. Plaster, drywall and other alternative methods for leveling walls in the bathroom How to level a wall with tiles

Tiling is often used when decorating surfaces inside the bathroom. Counts the best option due to the properties of tiles, large selection various colors and reliability of coating.

Requirements for wall surfaces under tiles

Interestingly, the requirements for the wall surface for tiles are not strict. There is no need to achieve a coating that is even under the ruler. 0.5-1 cm irregularities are eliminated later, at the time of installation. Therefore, leveling the wall will be cheaper and faster. Exception - small mosaic tiles. You will have to carefully prepare the wall, removing recesses and bumps. Therefore, mosaic installation is done by professionals.

Materials for leveling under tiles

What methods and materials will the master need for leveling:

Plaster – classic version, the dry mixture is diluted following the instructions. The cement base is strong, durable, and convenient to use. Capable of “freezing” the brick, preventing the process of destruction. There are special waterproof varieties. Inexpensive.
Gypsum mixture - bad option, interferes with the increased hygroscopicity of the material. Manufacturers are improving its components, but builders are trying not to use drywall. Plus - it sets quickly, which reduces the duration of work. The downside is that it is difficult to use, accessible to professionals, and, in addition, it is hygroscopic.
Gypsum plasterboards, OSB are among the available leveling methods and craftsman materials construction companies choose them. The leveling procedure is carried out quickly, the total cost of work will be higher, which accordingly increases the company's profit. Moisture-resistant OSB and plasterboards are also suitable.

Algorithm for leveling walls under tiles

To select the material suitable for the planned work, you should inspect the surfaces of the walls.

What factors are important:

Check the degree of verticality of the walls. A plumb line and visual assessment will help. The main indicator, tilers usually rely on it when choosing a laying technology. The peculiarity of the tiles is that they are laid vertically, otherwise the tiles in the corners of all walls will have to be cut. This is ugly and at the same time shows unprofessionalism. Secure the plumb line - drive a regular nail on top, tying a long thread to it. Hold the end of the thread and apply a ruler. Measure the area near the ceiling and below, the base of the walls. The actual difference in readings +/- centimeter is normal. If it is more, you need to equalize. Plaster or waterproof drywall will help.
As a long rule, check surfaces step by step. Lean the tool you are using more tightly, look for protrusions and small depressions. There are many irregularities, all small - there is a need for leveling with OSB or separate plasterboard boards. You can glue the tiles directly without installing metal profiles.
There are many irregularities, large ones - you will have to build a frame or plaster the walls.
Smooth walls automatically reduce the duration of preparatory work. Sometimes it is enough just to cover them with putty, cutting off the protruding edges and sealing individual recesses.

When leveling bathroom walls under tiles, the condition of the surfaces is assessed individually. Small cracks are not a problem; they will be covered with glue during installation.

The surfaces under the mosaic will have to be prepared more carefully. Treating with plaster is reliable, although it takes a long time, plus it is expensive, or with slabs.

Leveling bathroom walls with cement-sand mortars

It is considered a traditional and common way of preparation. A special dry mixture will be required; its quantity is calculated depending on the volume of work to be done.

How to level the walls in the bathroom, what tools are needed:

dry mixture, sand concrete;
plaster spatula;
cutting;
ladle;
scoop;
scoop;
collapsible falcon;
saucer falcon;
lighthouse, lighthouse details;
pin designs;
headscarf;
corner;
construction hammer;
Bulgarian;
key;
protective mask, gloves;
work clothes.

The tools are ready, it’s time to line the walls inside the bathroom with tiles:

Using a hammer/chisel, carefully remove the outermost crumbling fragments of bricks. Try to get to the ones that are further away. Remove completely outdated covering.
Use a grinder to cut off the protruding reinforcement.
How to level the walls in the bathroom - make a batch of mortar. Find out the thickness of the plaster to be applied, then place the beacons, with the first one being 20-30 cm from the nearest corner. The average distance between 2 attached beacons is less than the rule.
Installation of beacons. Sketch the finished mass with an even vertical strip, following the height of the room. When you're done, drown the lighthouse there. Correct its position using a level, achieving the required verticality. Repeat the operation at the opposite corner of that wall. Look, the room is larger (longer) rules - install additional intermediate beacons. A couple of ropes stretched evenly or a rule will help. Wait for the applied mass to cool for 2-3 hours.
Install limiters that correct the thickness of the applied plaster in the corners, also doorway. Nail thin boards, placing them in the corners (attach, glue - whatever is more convenient). Their position is leveled later, by beacons. After finishing the bathroom, when the plaster dries, remove the boards.
Plastering. How to level the walls in the bathroom for tiles other than plaster? Drywall and OSB boards are suitable. Plaster is considered the most affordable and easy-to-use material. Throw it on, working actively from bottom to top, and the thickness will be 1-2+ cm of the installed beacons. It is easy to remove excess solution by lifting it and moving it left and right, guided by the protruding beacons. You can seal the gap between the bathtub, as well as large recesses.
Use solution 3 to level the walls, periodically wetting it if it hardens.

How to level the surface of a wall efficiently - you need to actively apply portions of plaster using a trowel. Do not smear or smear. Just sketch it out.

Immediately seal all large cavities found earlier with plaster. Moreover, if the layer being formed turns out to be uneven, somewhere thicker, it’s okay. It will not affect ceramic tile cladding.

Video tiling a bathroom

The procedure can be seen more clearly in the video of bathroom tiling; the master carries out the work step by step and gives advice.

Leveling large uneven walls with slabs

In addition to plaster, various slabs are suitable for leveling. The cheapest are individual moisture-resistant plasterboards.

Operating procedure:

Marking the walls. The plates are fastened through metal profiles, the dimensions of which must correspond to the material and be located strictly along the axes, 60 cm. When trimming, it is important to maintain the fixation area - the edge of the perfect cut. Additionally, simple vertical profiles should be installed; they will support the slabs from the inside, preventing them from sagging.
Secure the main guide profile below with dowels to the floor. Install more than 2 perforated canopies on the wall, placing them side by side (50-60 cm). Look, the hangers are only positioned vertically.
Installation of profiles - using a level, secure all the outer profiles. Once you have finished setting, secure it with a self-tapping screw. Remove long pieces of perforated tape.
Pull the ropes, tying the corners of the outermost elements. Install the remaining vertical profiles along them. If the surfaces to be processed are complex and there are many uneven surfaces, install additional horizontal small jumpers.
Fasten the drywall more tightly to the previously installed profiles. Place the slabs evenly, leaving a gap for subsequent fixation of another fox.
There is no need to putty the seams if you plan to install tiles. Simply clean the surface and begin installation.

Install more profiles, they increase the strength of the new coating. Secure the joints with jumpers.

Near the bath you need a thicker slab (1.5-2 cm), at the same time reduce the distance between installed racks frame. This will enhance the overall performance and at the same time the durability of the structure.

Leveling the walls in the bathroom with plasterboard slabs using glue

The technique is justified when there are enough irregularities, but small ones.

Advantages of frameless drywall installation technology:

speed - comparing it with the classic installation of slabs;
low cost - thinner slabs are suitable, without a frame, and accordingly the cost decreases;
strength is increased - the glue fills the voids from the inside, which reduces sagging;
technological effectiveness - the work is accessible to beginners.

What you will need: a drill + pobedit drills, several long dowels (30-40 cm are suitable), drywall, glue, a special mounting knife.

Operating procedure:

Marking the wall - place special support beacons. Align several vertical slats using a level. Install beacons on them. Connect the outer ones by stretching the threads. Guided by them, following 40-50 cm, position the dowels so that their caps are in one even plane. They will serve as support for the slabs.
Prepare glue and adjust the dimensions of the slabs.
Apply glue above the caps of the installed beacons (2-3 cm), using a trowel. Place application points periodically (15-20 cm).
Position the slab while leveling it. Then, using the rule, press it more tightly onto the protruding caps of the beacons. Tap the slab with the rule, preventing it from sagging.
Fix whole slabs step by step, then sections. Remove excess glue.

Glue carefully, do not then lean against the renewed wall. Remove concave or cracked slabs.

Video of leveling bathroom walls with plaster

A video of leveling walls in a bathroom with plaster will help you study the nuances.

The above techniques help prepare the walls. Laying the slabs is considered the most difficult. It will require an assistant; it is impossible for one person to adjust the position and glue at the same time. High-quality alignment will affect the installation process later.

The only room in the apartment where the owners think least about the material for wall cladding is the bathroom. In 9 cases out of 10, these are ceramic tiles, which is due to difficult conditions operation: high humidity and temperature changes. Otherwise, it can be paint, PVC panels or waterproof wallpaper. At the same time, laying tiles, painting, and wallpapering are impossible without preparatory work, among which leveling the walls in the bathroom takes a leading place (for plastic panels you can skip this operation).

There are two reasons to level the wall:

aesthetic - finishing it looks neat on a flat wall and does not spoil the overall impression of the apartment’s interior;
technical - associated with the risk of voids forming under the tiles during the drying process of the glue due to its shrinkage. At any time in such places facing material may be damaged. The second scenario is possible - as the adhesive mass contracts, it drags away individual slabs of tiles, disrupting the harmony of the laid tiles.

Therefore, the procedure for leveling the walls is a mandatory step when finishing a bathroom. Currently, several methods are used, the pros and cons of which we will discuss below.

Drywall

The simplest and most affordable way to level the walls is to use drywall, but not ordinary, but moisture-resistant. The method has many advantages:

the leveling process takes several hours;
the technology does not require special knowledge or experience - the work is done with your own hands;
you can hide significant plane defects;
Communications are hidden under the plasterboard.

Among the disadvantages it should be noted:

moisture-resistant drywall does not withstand in areas of high humidity: near the bathtub and above the sink. Here it is necessary to use plaster;
installation of gypsum plasterboard on the sheathing significantly reduces usable area bathroom - at least 3 cm on each side;
in many cases waterproofing work is necessary.

Plaster

The classic way to level walls is to apply plaster. The method has many positive aspects:

you can achieve a perfectly smooth surface;
after drying, the wall is ready to withstand any mechanical loads;
indispensable in wet areas;
withstands any tile, including porcelain stoneware;
the area of the room is practically not reduced;
consumables (cement and sand) are not very expensive.

The method also has disadvantages:

using the method when the height difference near the wall is more than 3 cm will be very expensive, since it will require a large number of materials;

the technology is complex and requires skills;
the process takes several days.

Bathroom wall surface requirements

Various finishing materials have their own requirements for the surface of the walls. Some materials require a perfectly smooth surface, while others generally reduce preparatory work to remove mold.

Under tiles

Tile laying specialists are often faced with a situation where the walls in the bathroom were not leveled for tiles - height differences were compensated tile adhesive. The results of such work appear very quickly - the glue shrinks when it dries (the shrinkage of a 5 cm layer of adhesive reaches 1 cm). It’s not hard to guess what happens to the tiles: they either crack or fall through with the glue.

However, ideal smooth walls are not needed for laying tiles. Glue will cope perfectly with a height difference of 1 cm. The exception is mosaic tiles. It requires a smooth wall. The explanation is simple: in any case, the glue shrinks. It's not noticeable under standard tiles. Under the fine mosaic, all irregularities immediately become visible.

PVC panels

The only one finishing material, which does not respond to the curvature of the walls - panels made of polyvinyl chloride. The plastic decor is mounted on the lathing, which hides any errors and defects. Here is the preparation for finishing works comes down to sealing cracks and potholes, as well as removing mold and black spots if they have appeared.

Coloring

IN Lately The fashion for painting bathroom walls is back. Under a layer of paint, any unevenness: height differences, potholes, cracks on the surface of the walls immediately become visible. Painting them does not hide, but sticks out. Therefore, before painting the bathroom, it is necessary to bring the surface of its walls to perfect condition.

Instructions for leveling walls

There are two ways to level the walls: plaster or sheathe plasterboard sheets. Each of them has their own strengths and weak sides, which you can read about in the work: "". But there are several clarifying points regarding the bath:

1. It is better to plaster the walls under the tiles. There is no need to install beacons. The small area of plaster and a curvature tolerance of 1 cm allow you to carry out the work yourself, even without experience.

As a last resort, if still not required plane, the wall can be puttied, smoothing out any mistakes. Leveling the walls in the bathroom with plasterboard to match the tiles is justified only if the surface slope is more than 2.5 cm.

2. It is better to use gypsum board for painting, which allows you to get perfectly smooth walls. If the curvature of the surface is slight, you can do without a frame and glue the drywall directly to the walls. If there is significant curvature, in any case, you will have to install a sheathing and cover it with gypsum board.

Drywall

Apartment owners who have dealt with plasterboard will easily figure out how to line the walls in the bathroom with this material. For those who are encountering gypsum board wall cladding for the first time, we will describe the entire process step by step.

In practice, two methods are used to level gypsum board walls:

without frame;
with lathing.

No frame. This method existing species glue and technology make it possible to level a wall with a curvature of up to 4 cm. But only under wallpaper or paint. A thick layer of adhesive will not withstand the tile, which must be taken into account (tile tiling using gypsum plasterboard is carried out with a thickness of the adhesive mass of no more than 1 cm).

Step 1. The wall is cleaned of dirt, old plaster and mold. All types of recesses are sealed with putty. The ledges get knocked down. Using a plumb line and a level, the curvature of the wall is determined. If it does not exceed 1.5 cm, the gypsum board is glued directly to the wall.

Step 2. The wall is primed and then hung. Planks are attached to the sides of adjacent walls to control the vertical, and a line is drawn on the floor with chalk to set the horizontal. Drywall sheets are cut to fit the size of the wall.

In this case, technological gaps are left at the bottom and top (see photo).

Polyurethane foam (for painting) or Perlfix gypsum adhesive (for tiles) is applied to them. You can also use dry gypsum plaster.

Attention: when using dry plasters, professionals recommend adding PVA glue to the solution in a ratio of 3:1, where glue is 1 part.

Step 4. The sheet is applied to the wall and leveled in the horizontal and vertical plane (a level is required). You can change the plane of drywall only by pressing it against the wall. It won’t be possible to pull it inside the bathroom - the foam (glue) is not rubber and won’t pull out.

Step 5. After the glue has dried, the surface of the plasterboard is treated with a primer, and the joining seams are sealed with serpentine. Every other day, the surface of the drywall is puttied.

If the curvature of the surface exceeds 1.5 cm, spacers will help. To do this, the places with the greatest bend into the wall are determined. Strips of plasterboard are glued onto them, and then the gypsum board is glued. Application polyurethane foam excluded as an adhesive mass. It is advisable to use ready-made Fugenfüller putty or Perlfix dry mixture.

The technology is not complicated. If something remains unclear, you can read the material on this topic: “”.

With lathing. Large curvature of the walls requires the installation of sheathing. The work is performed in the following sequence:

the wall is hung to determine the attachment points of the guide profile (NP);
places of passage are determined ceiling profile(PP);
hangers are attached to the line of passage of the PP profile;
holes for dowels are drilled on the floor and ceiling;
all types of profiles are cut to size using a grinder or a hacksaw;
guide profiles are attached with self-tapping screws that are screwed into driven dowels;
a ceiling profile is placed in the guide profile and secured with self-tapping screws;
the vertically installed profile is additionally strengthened with hangers;
Sheets of gypsum board are screwed onto the resulting sheathing with self-tapping screws.

Important: in materials on leveling walls in the bathroom you can find a recommendation to use wooden slats for lathing. Practice has shown that this cannot be done - they spin over time. A metal profile is needed.

The process is described in more detail in the material: "".

Plastering

The second method of leveling walls is plaster. How to properly level the walls in the bathroom using this method, we will consider below. There is no need to install beacons here. It is enough to draw a line along the floor, walls and ceiling along the surface of the plaster. The work algorithm is as follows:

the walls are cleared of old decoration: tiles or paints (such an operation is not required in a new building), as well as old plaster;
loose bricks are removed, cracks and potholes are sealed;
masonry seams are opened for better adhesion of the plaster to the wall;
the surface is cleaned of volatile fats, blackening and mold;
the surface is treated with a primer;
hanging is carried out, during which the most convex point of the wall is determined;
3 mm is added to the found point and a contour of the future plaster surface is drawn along the walls, floor and ceiling;
a solution is prepared for the first layer of plaster in a 1:1 ratio;
the spray is applied in a thin layer - rubbed with a grater, spatula or paint brush;
After the first layer has dried, the second layer is applied - primer. A solution is prepared for it according to a different recipe: 1 part M400 cement and 2 parts sand;
plastering small area in the corner. The rule and level constantly control the surface horizontally and vertically;
You can continue up or along the floor until you get a closed perimeter. Work continues again from the corner of the looped plaster. Here the reference point will be the already plastered wall.

There is nothing complicated, but constant monitoring of the plaster plane with a level is necessary. It is not advisable to perform the last operation, which is called “covering”. All roughness will be removed by glue.

Plaster without beacons is discussed in more detail in the work: "".

The nuances of working with different surface materials

The fundamental difference in the technology of leveling walls depending on the material from which they are composed is modern buildings No. Exception - old brick houses, where the walls of the bathroom and bathroom are laid out in one brick, and the plaster is made over a metal mesh.

It is very difficult to remove the plaster layer, since there is a high probability of destroying the wall. Therefore, they resort to partial cleaning of the peeling plaster after tapping the walls.

If you had to remove the mesh and remove the plaster completely, the brick must be treated with coating insulation before plastering. This way the wall is protected from destruction due to high humidity.

If the walls are made of plasterboard or wood, they are easier to replace.

At independent work There are always nuances that can affect both the quality of work and the speed of its completion. Professionals advise:

Walls under plaster must be thoroughly cleaned. Any negligence can lead to peeling of the plaster layer along with the tiles;
to avoid mistakes when preparing the solution, it is better to buy ready-made mixtures;
the plaster must match the material of the walls;
When choosing a mixture, you should pay attention to which phase plastering works it is intended (spray, primer, covering);
You cannot experiment when preparing the solution - strictly follow the instructions;
treating walls against fungus and mold is mandatory;
It is advisable to buy primers and mixtures from the same manufacturer.

Conclusion

How to line the walls in the bathroom for tiles or painting is up to the owner to decide. Right choice will allow for a high-quality finish.

It is best to level the walls with plasterboard before painting. In this case, it can be placed on glue or screwed to the sheathing with self-tapping screws. For tiling a bathroom, plaster made without beacons is better suited - small errors can be removed with glue.

Leveling the walls in the bathroom is usually required when preparing the surface for finishing work. The quality of preparation depends on the material that is planned to be used to cover the walls.

Thus, leveling the walls in the bathroom under the tiles allows for small errors in vertical deviation (up to 10 mm). In order to prepare the base for painting or wallpapering, it is necessary to obtain a perfectly flat surface, and when finishing a bathroom PVC panels, it is enough to eliminate chips and cracks.

In addition to the aesthetic function, it is also necessary to level the walls from the point of view of the technology for carrying out the work. For example, when laying tiles on the adhesive solution, the thickness of the layer on the wall should not exceed 10 mm. Leveling out the differences above specified value with the help of glue leads to the formation of voids when the mixture dries.

How to properly level the walls in the bathroom? Methods for eliminating defects depend on the degree of unevenness of the base and the material for subsequent finishing. The following methods are usually used:

Drywall. This method allows in short time obtain a perfectly flat surface for subsequent painting or gluing of tiles. For work in the bathroom, special moisture-resistant (green) sheets are used. Installation is carried out as with the construction of a base from metal profile, and without a frame, by gluing sheets directly to the surface.

TO pros This method includes the ability to do the assembly yourself, the speed of work, the ability to level out strong differences, and the ability to mask communications.

TO cons One can attribute the fragility of the plasterboard preparation near the mixer and around the bathtub, because Even moisture-resistant plasterboard becomes unusable due to excess humidity. In addition, the frame preparation “eats” at least 30 mm of space from each wall.

Using plaster. Leveling the base with plaster solutions allows you to achieve a perfectly flat surface that can be used for any type of finishing.

TO positive The qualities of plaster in the bathroom include: the possibility of obtaining a strong base that can resist significant loads, the immunity of the base to high humidity, maintaining the volume of the room in almost its original form, low cost of materials.

TO negative qualities include: complex technology, the impossibility of eliminating problems when the difference in vertical marks is more than 30 mm, the duration of drying of the plaster solution.

Instructions for leveling walls

Plastering is initially suitable for further installation of tiles, but is also recommended when painting the surface, but in this case the quality of surface leveling must be high.

Plastering

For such small rooms like a bathroom, it is not necessary to use beacons when plastering the base. As a boundary pointing to required thickness applying the solution, use marks on the walls, ceiling and floor, or pull the cord diagonally.

An important condition for obtaining a high-quality surface in rooms with high humidity is the use of the appropriate type of solution. For bathrooms, it is recommended to use a standard cement-sand mortar. The use of gypsum mixtures is unacceptable; they can only be used in dry rooms.

When plastering walls in a bathroom, use the following step-by-step plan:

The surface is cleaned of the old coating (paint, tiles, old plaster are removed);
If the walls are made of brick, you need to remove the falling out elements, fill the voids with new material, and re-embroider the seams to ensure high adhesion to the mortar;
The wall surface is treated with an antiseptic solution, mold and mildew are removed;
The base is primed suitable look primer;

To determine the boundaries of applying plaster, find the most convex point on the base. Add 3 mm to its level and use laser level or plumb line, mark the walls, ceiling and floor;

Using a laser level.

Plumb.

To apply the first layer, prepare a solution in a ratio of 1 to 1 (one part cement and one part sand). The spray is applied in a thin layer and distributed evenly over the entire surface;
For the primer layer, the solution is mixed in a ratio of 1 to 2. They begin to add the main layer from the lower left corner and gradually move up and to the right, controlling the thickness of the layer according to the marks using the rule;
If the wall is planned to be painted in the future, apply a covering layer. In this case, the solution is prepared with a predominant proportion of cement, essentially producing cement laitance. A thin layer, no more than 1 mm, is leveled over the surface with a grater;
If the surface is being prepared for subsequent tile gluing, a covering layer is not applied.

Drywall

Leveling the walls in the bathroom with plasterboard for tiles or painting is done in two ways. If the base is fairly level, you can use gypsum board gluing without installing a frame. If the differences are significant (more than 30 mm), a metal profile frame is used to secure the sheets.

Manipulating drywall is not difficult for beginners, so it is not necessary to invite specialists to level the surface in the bathroom. When performing work with gypsum boards without frame installation, it is recommended to use the following algorithm:

The base surface is freed from the previous coating. Pockets of mold and mildew are removed. Noticeable imperfections (cracks, pits) are repaired with putty, sagging and protrusions are cut down.
Using a level or laser level, find the maximum and minimum points. If the difference between these values does not exceed 15 mm, you can start gluing drywall without a frame.
The surface is pre-treated with a primer and antiseptic solutions.
Lines are drawn on the floor and walls, which will serve as a guide for installing gypsum boards. The sheets are cut to the size of the wall, taking into account technological gaps of 5 mm at the junction of the sheets with the floor and ceiling.

Gap at top.

Gap at the bottom.

To install gypsum boards, special foam or glue is used. If you plan to paint in the future, it is enough to use foam; if you plan to install tiles, use only glue.

Places for applying glue to gypsum boards.

When installing sheets, you should remember that alignment is only possible by pressing; you cannot pull the sheet towards yourself.
The drying time of the glue or foam is determined according to the instructions for this material. After drying, the sheets need to be primed, the joints glued with sickle and putty.

Serpyanka.

Drywall installation with frame performed using the following technology:

Using a laser level or level, the most protruding point is found. Taking into account the overlap of this protrusion, mark the mounting locations for the guides.
According to the markings, guides are installed on the floor and ceiling.
Hangers are attached to the walls strictly vertically.
The profile is attached to the walls with dowels, and the profile is connected to each other using self-tapping screws. To cut a metal profile, you will need a grinder or a hacksaw.
Drywall is screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws.
When marking vertical and horizontal guides, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the sheets so that the guides exactly fall on the gypsum board joints.

The nuances of preparing walls in the bathroom

Before leveling the walls in the bathroom, it is necessary to assess the condition of the base and the material from which the wall is made. In new buildings, most often the walls are made of brick and left in their rough form without plastering.

In apartments with history it is possible various options. This brick walls, panels and monolithic standard blocks of bathrooms. The walls can be painted, plastered or tiled.

The most difficult thing is to prepare an already plastered surface. It is often impossible to completely remove the old layer to the base. Old plaster falls off along with pieces of brick, which can lead to complete destruction of the base, so only the most damaged areas are dismantled.

It is best to completely dismantle plasterboard bases.

Under tiles

Before leveling the walls in the bathroom with tiles, it is important to decide on the type of tile. For standard ceramic tiles It is enough to prepare the surface with a height difference of no more than 10 mm.

Tile mortar easily copes with such unevenness. If you plan to cover the base with mosaic flexible tiles, you will have to be more thorough in preparation. The surface for the mosaic must be ideal.

When working with tile adhesives, it is important to consider that this material has strong shrinkage, so using large volumes of mortar to eliminate defects is fraught with the appearance of voids and chipping of the tiles.

Coloring

To paint the surfaces in the bathroom, you will need to eliminate all unevenness, roughness, cracks and pits. It would be correct to first plaster the base and then putty it, otherwise all the imperfections of the painted surface will be visible under artificial lighting.

PVC panels

To install plastic panels, it is not necessary to level the base. This material is mounted on a frame made of wooden slats or metal profile. When installing the frame, the unevenness of the base is successfully leveled, so no preliminary preparation the walls are not fulfilled.

To protect the new coating from the appearance of mold or mildew, the base must be treated with antiseptic agents.

Video on the topic

The base for the tiles must be prepared; cracks, drops and potholes are not allowed. The durability of the cladding depends on this. Leveling walls for tiles is not a complicated process, but it is labor-intensive; let’s look at the main points of this work.

Why is it important to level the base?

A smooth surface helps reduce tile adhesive consumption. When the wall is level, the tiles are laid on a thin layer, which is adjusted with a comb. Otherwise, the tiles will need to be laid in layers, which is longer and more difficult.
The durability of the cladding depends on whether the base has been prepared. A thick layer of glue under the tile will shrink over time, voids may form under the tile and because of this the cladding may crack and not withstand mechanical stress.
Aesthetics and evenness of installation. If the tiles are laid on a layer, it is difficult to lay them in one plane, because of this, some parts may protrude and corners may bulge.

Let's consider existing methods leveling walls for laying tiles.

There are several options for leveling the walls:

plastering the surface along beacons;
using starting putties;
using drywall.

Before choosing a leveling method, it is necessary to inspect the surface and evaluate the complexity and volume of work.

A budget option for leveling walls using beacons - video

Inspection of the base

To check the wall's plane, use a two-meter long building level. Attach it to the base and see where there are differences and irregularities. Outline problem areas with a pencil: you can partially level the base with starting putties.

The choice of materials is determined by the volume of work, the thickness of the layer to be applied and the specifics of the room. For rooms with high humidity, it is better to use plastering with cement-sand mortar or moisture-resistant drywall.

Plastering walls

Leveling the walls with plaster is a reasonable option when the differences are significant and it is easier to bring out the plane in a new way. It is better to plaster brick bases or block walls.

Inspection of the wall, marking.
Surface priming.
Installation of beacons.
Plastering.

Wall inspection

Using a building level and rules, check the plane and determine what differences there are. This way you can determine how to install the beacons so that you get one plane.

The thickness of the beacons is from 1 cm, which means that the thickness of the plaster layer will be from 1 cm and thicker. The beacons are installed at a distance of the width of the rule, which will then be used to tighten the solution.

Padding

The primer improves the adhesive properties of the base, reduces moisture absorption, due to this the surface does not absorb moisture so quickly. You can prime using a roller or brush. Make sure there are no gaps.

You can prime more quickly using a regular garden sprayer. Pump it up and spray primer.

Installation of beacons

Metal beacons are used for plastering surfaces. Beacons are mounted on starting putty, which has a high viscosity and dries quickly.

Beat off vertical lines from the ceiling to the floor along which the beacon will be installed. The layer of putty depends on the curvature of the wall.
Prepare a solution with a thick consistency. Apply it to the wall along the line you marked.
Apply the beacon to the putty.
Install the second beacon according to the instructions above.
You check the plane with the rule: the beacons must be located in the same plane.
Using a level, check the beacon along its entire length. Set it level so that there are no holes or differences anywhere.
Apply putty to the lighthouse to securely fix it to the base.

Another way to install beacons

Installing beacons directly onto the solution requires skill and experience. A novice builder can play it safe:

Drill several holes along the broken vertical line.
Insert dowels into the holes and screw in screws.
Place a level and adjust the position of the screws so that they are in the same plane.
Install the beacon on the screws and secure it with gypsum plaster.

Plastering

Plastering is carried out in three stages:

applying a contact layer or spraying;
base layer;
alignment.

Aligning walls using self-tapping screws - video

The contact layer is a liquid solution that is applied to the base to improve adhesion. The layer thickness for concrete and brick bases is 5 mm. Before doing this, wet the surface with water, because brickwork draws a lot of water.

The main layer is applied to the wall with a trowel or plaster ladle. The excess is cut off by a rule that extends along the beacons. A solution of thick consistency is used, a layer of up to 1 cm.

The finishing layer will level out all unevenness and defects; sifted fine-grained sand is used to prepare the solution. If the previous layer included debris, blades of grass, and coarse sand, then it needs to be leveled with a homogeneous mixture.

After plastering, the surface is rubbed with a wooden float using counterclockwise movements. The surface must be moistened with water, and uneven areas must be immediately sealed and rubbed with a liquid solution.

A plastic grater will wear out quickly, so it’s better to buy one wooden instrument. You can make a wooden grater from scrap materials, the main thing is a flat surface.

Using putty mixtures

Is it possible to use gypsum-based mixtures to level bathroom walls? Gypsum-based mixtures absorb moisture and will swell over time, so the cladding will not last long.

But many people use Rotband plaster to level the walls under the tiles in the bathroom. The discussions are endless, let's look at the facts.

Advantages:

You can apply a layer from 5 to 50 mm. If “Rotband” can cope with differences of up to 5 cm, then the plaster is applied in a layer of no more than 2 cm at a time.
When applying a 10 mm layer, the glue consumption will be 8.5 kg per m2. Consumption is half that of conventional cement-sand mixtures.
Ideally smooth and even surface, no additional leveling required.

What about indoor humidity?

On the package with the dry mixture it is written that the glue is suitable for leveling and puttying walls and ceilings. Used for concrete, brick foundations; for rooms with normal humidity, in bathrooms and kitchens.

The base for plastering with “Rotband” must be treated with antiseptics, which will prevent the appearance of mold and mildew. Consider a ventilation system in your bathroom.

How to level walls with gypsum mortar?

Drywall with glue

Plasterboard gluing is used:

if the differences are up to 2 cm;
there is no way to completely knock down the old base, remove the plaster and apply a new layer;
work needs to be completed in a short time.

Plastering will take a lot of time: installing beacons, applying a contact layer of plaster, then the base and leveling layer. Then you need to wait until the plaster dries. With gluing drywall everything is faster.

Note!

Moisture-resistant plasterboard is used for the bathroom.

Preparing the base

Make sure the base is strong and not peeling off anywhere.
Use Betonokontakt primer containing quartz sand. It will improve adhesion.
If there is a risk of mold and mildew, treat the base with antiseptic primers.

Should I take it off? old paint or plaster?

If the plaster holds firmly and does not peel off, then it is not necessary. You can make notches in the paint and open it with Concrete Contact.

Pasting depending on the curvature of the surface:

For gluing, gypsum-based glue is used - “Perlfix” from the manufacturer “Knauf”. You can work with Perlfix when temperature conditions from +5 to +20 C.

Elasticity, a lifetime of 30 minutes, and low glue consumption - 5 kg per 1 m2 - make Perlfix an ideal composition for gluing drywall. There is a temporary gap for gluing and adjusting the position of the sheets.

Key points of gluing technology

The base is prepared: cleaned of dust, dirt, grease, soot, etc. Covered with primer.
Perlfix glue is applied to the back of the drywall. The bloopers are located around the perimeter of the leaf and in the center. The thickness of the layer depends on the curvature of the base.
Before starting work, measure the base, see where and what differences there are.

The glue is diluted according to the instructions; for better mixing, use construction mixer. The consistency of the glue is thick, but the solution remains elastic.

The sheet is applied to the wall. The position of the sheet is corrected with light blows of the palm or a rubber hammer.
Check the flatness building level or a rule.

The drywall is attached with a gap of 5-7 mm from the floor and ceiling; place wedges or drywall scraps from below.

Bottom line
The method of leveling walls for tiles is selected depending on the size of the room, the curvature of the base and financial capabilities.

Anyone who decides to decorate this room themselves will have to level the walls in the bathroom. Let's look at the sequence of actions and stop at important points that you will have to face.

Leveling the walls in the bathroom always has its own characteristics, especially if it is carried out in “service” premises modern apartment– bathroom, toilet, kitchen, where temperature changes and high humidity require a completely different attitude to the process. It is impossible to lay tiles on a surface with imperfections, including those with a slope. That is why the alignment process is considered basic and necessary. As a rule, builders do not pay much attention to the quality of the walls; it is more important for them to meet the deadlines for the construction of the entire building.

A slope not exceeding 3 cm is allowed. If the deviation is higher, you will either have to forget about this design or start correcting the curvature. There are two ways. The first is the use of special mixtures, the second is using panels (PVC, plasterboard, etc.). Both will work for tiles. The only question is the specifics.

The preparation of the wall surface should be divided into a number of stages. First, it is recommended to dismantle all lamps, switches, holders and other parts. It would also be a good idea to temporarily de-energize the room, and also carefully insulate the ends of the electrical wires protruding from the wall. If there was already a coating on the walls, you need to use a hammer drill or impact drill separate the tiles from the surface, and subsequently clean the wall from mortar residues and irregularities. However, in houses of different eras the arrangement of walls in bathrooms is different! Therefore, let's look at the features of surface preparation in various types of housing.

Preparing the wall surface for tiles

Brick houses built in the 40s–60s

There will be only one solid wall here, and the rest will be partitions made of either dry plaster or thick plywood. And it’s not a fact that the bathroom will be adjacent to the main wall. There is no question of leveling here, and if the room we are interested in is separated by just such “shields”, optimal solution– complete demolition of partitions and construction of new ones using modern materials.

Plaster on a main wall is unlikely to be durable and it is also pointless to restore it. It’s better to beat it down to the brick and restore the coating modern materials. Reinforcement mesh(if any) it is advisable to remove it, and before plastering it is necessary to treat the surface with a waterproofing layer.

Panel houses built in the 60s–80s

The peculiarity of such buildings is the presence of a ready-made plasterboard cell installed inside a concrete capital niche. Some technologies allowed the use of these cabins from concrete or asbestos-containing material. The latter, by the way, had a very negative impact on the human body, especially during heating when taking water procedures.

Bathroom made of concrete

The ideal option is the complete destruction of the cabin. The positive is that the volume of the room increases and you can buy a bath bigger size. If it’s a pity to demolish the cabin or you just don’t want to bother, then the surface does not require special leveling. It is best to treat it with a water-repellent material and then reinforce it metal mesh and plaster.

Modern monolithic houses

These are ideal walls for tiling. There is no need to invent anything here, just treat the surface with a primer and then apply plaster to cement based. It is also recommended to use reinforced mesh, and apply a layer twice. The wall turns out just perfect!

We begin to level the wall under the tiles

If the wall has already been cleaned, you can begin the main work. Leveling the walls in the bathroom involves a few steps.

How to level a bathroom wall with tiles - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Beacons

After you have beaten old tiles and cleaned up traces of cement or glue, it is necessary to install beacons, thanks to which it will be possible to level the plaster. They are made simply: in one of upper corners room, a nail is driven in so that its head protrudes from the wall at a distance of approximately 3 mm. A thread (preferably nylon) is attached to it, at the other end of which there is a small weight. The length of the thread may not reach the floor by about 2–3 cm.

When the thread has stopped swinging, you need to drive a second nail into the wall so that the edges of its head are flush with the thread. This must be done in every corner of the room being treated. The lower ends of the threads should be secured, but they should not touch the surface of the walls. The final touch is a thread that is pulled diagonally across the wall. It is also located at a distance from the wall. It should be noted that the method with beacons is by far the most economical and effective.

Step 2: Primer

Once the beacons are installed, we proceed to alignment. First of all, prime the surface. It should be noted that in a series of tips on how to level the walls in the bathroom, many do not mention priming. Meanwhile, this is one of the the most important conditions not only for strength, but also to eliminate such phenomena as fungus. We will deliberately not name the brand of primer: each surface has its own material.

Those who treat a brick surface have the opportunity to save a lot of money, since it is enough to wet it generously with water and immediately begin applying plaster.

If the viscosity of the solution allows, you can cheat by applying it to the wall not with a brush and roller, but by spraying it from a spray bottle. It is also recommended to apply a primer between layers of plaster during further processing. This will not only increase strength and create additional protection from moisture, but will also make the surface as smooth as possible.

Step 3: Plaster

It should be immediately clear that one layer cannot be used here, and the process itself must be divided into three stages:

"Spray." The name comes from the method of application. The plaster solution is taken with the edge of a trowel and thrown onto the wall. Then it must be smeared with a layer not exceeding 2 mm in thickness.
Primer. This is exactly the stage mentioned above. The height of the layer should be no more than 3–5 mm, and it is applied after the previous one has dried slightly.
Finish coating. The layer at this stage should be made thinner than the first, and therefore it is more advisable to use putty - a universal material for all types of surfaces. If you want to save money, you can use the same plaster that was originally used. It won't be a big mistake.

How to use drywall?

The method described above is classic. But its disadvantage is that it is difficult for a person who has no experience in renovating premises to prepare the surface for the first time. Another thing - . The algorithm of actions here will be as follows:

Preliminary priming of the walls is carried out. Finishing material with appropriate waterproofing is used. For example, surfaces with average moisture absorption can be treated universal primer, and if the water resistance parameters of the wall are quite high, it is best to use a material with a much deeper degree of penetration.
While the primer is drying, sheets of plasterboard are being prepared, and work related to connecting communications is underway. No, this is not wall slitting (such an operation should be carried out before priming). Holes are made in the plasterboard for sockets and electric lamps, and the sheets themselves are cut so that there is a gap of 10 mm between the floor and the plasterboard covering, and from the ceiling to the edge of the sheet it is 5 mm.
On the side of the sheets that will be facing the wall, glue is applied with a spatula over the entire surface, in clumps, the distance between which should be approximately 30–40 cm. From the edges of the sheet to the clumps, the distance is at least 5 cm.
A sheet of drywall is applied to the treated surface of the wall and pressed firmly against it. After application, it is necessary to tap the sheet around the entire perimeter with a rubber mallet.
As soon as the glue sets, the drywall sheet is treated with a primer with high level absorption, after which it has hardened, the tiles can be laid.