We need to glue linoleum. Is it necessary to glue linoleum to the floor: how to make the right decision

According to the technology, linoleum should be laid on an adhesive layer, which ensures reliable fixation of the coating to the floor. Since linoleum can be different, the appropriate glue must be used in each specific case, otherwise a high-quality result will not work.

What types of glue exist, how to choose the right composition, and is it possible to do without gluing the canvas to the surface?

Should I glue linoleum or not? Manufacturers of this coating clearly advocate glue method styling, but there is no consensus among buyers. As practice shows, a lot depends on the quality of the coating and the intensity of the load: in some cases, linoleum lays well for years without glue, in others, the glued one goes in waves and becomes deformed.

And yet, some kind of fixation must be present to prevent the canvas from moving.

There are several ways to fix linoleum to the floor:

• the coating is glued to double-sided tape, which is attached in parallel strips at certain intervals over the entire area. The fabrics are secured to the seams with the same tape or “cold welding” glue;
• if the room is spacious and the covering is laid in one large-width sheet (from 3 m), the glue is applied to the floor in a continuous, uniform layer;
• To fix standard sheets, glue is applied in strips along the perimeter of the area and at the seams.

The first option is the most convenient and fastest, but it is not intended for intense floor loads. But the adhesive method is suitable for any premises, the main thing is to choose and apply the composition correctly.

Using glue has many advantages:

• the adhesive layer ensures reliable contact of the canvas with the base, increasing the wear resistance of the coating;
• prevents the formation of waves and other deformations on the surface;
• reduces the risk of damage to the canvas when moving heavy objects;
• ensures the integrity of the seams between the canvases, due to which the coating retains its attractive appearance longer;
• extends the service life of linoleum by 30-40%.

Cons this method There are also, but there are not many of them:

• installation costs increase;
• Before using the coating, you must wait until the glue has completely dried;
• In case of dismantling, linoleum cannot always be removed without damage.

As for leveling the floor under linoleum, there is no difference: both for laying on a dry base, and in the case of gluing the canvas, the working surface must be perfectly flat and smooth. The adhesive layer is quite thin and cannot compensate for differences of more than 1-2 mm, so any defects will appear on the surface of the linoleum.

The exception is special mastics, the application thickness of which ranges from 3 to 7 mm. They fill small irregularities well and, after hardening, form a durable solid foundation for covering. But such installation will not be cheap, since mastic is more expensive than glue, and its consumption is greater.

Types and characteristics of glue

The choice of adhesive depends on the surface on which the installation is being made and the type of coating itself. At the moment, linoleum adhesives are presented in dispersion and reaction compositions.

Dispersive

This type includes water-soluble compounds containing cellulose acid, acrylic, latex, rubber, chalk. They are the safest for health, do not emit a smell, and have good elasticity. They are used for natural and PVC linoleum on different types of bases - felt, fabric and foam.

The presence of water in the composition causes some restrictions: dispersion adhesive can only be applied to an absorbent base, in dry rooms where the temperature does not fall below 15°C and the humidity does not exceed 60%. The adhesive layer must not be allowed to freeze, as this will cause the material to lose its elasticity and begin to crumble.

The group of dispersion adhesives includes:

• acrylate glue– a mixture based on acrylic resin. It is characterized by high adhesion and viscosity, which ensures excellent adhesion of the coating to the floor. Can be used for homogeneous and heterogeneous linoleum with jute and synthetic base;
• boostilate– a synthetic water-soluble composition with latex, chalk and cellulose thickener. It has high tear strength and elasticity, best suited for thick linoleum on a dense felt base;
• gumilax– the composition is based on a mixture of rubber and latex, thanks to which the adhesive is easy to apply, has high elasticity and adhesion to various types surfaces. Suitable for natural and synthetic linoleum with felt and fabric backing.

Reactionary

This type combines two-component compositions containing polymers and epoxy resin. Bonding of surfaces occurs as a result of a chemical reaction, which is caused by mixing the components. This type The glue contains a solvent, therefore it has a pungent odor and is a flammable substance. The advantage of such compositions is the absence of shrinkage, plasticity and resistance to moisture, and they are used mainly for sealing joints between sheets and repairing damage.

Three types of two-component glue are available, differing in their consistency:

• type A– the most liquid, used for all types of linoleum on a rigid basis. It is used to seal joints when laying a new coating, as it forms an almost invisible, but very strong seam. It takes about an hour to fully cure;
• type C– a viscous transparent composition, used for sealing broken seams on used flooring. Capable of closing gaps up to 4 mm;
• type T– paste-like composition for fastening seams on PVC linoleum with a polyester base. Created for professional use, therefore it is rarely used by home craftsmen.

Advice. When applying these compounds, you must do everything very carefully, because glue that accidentally gets on the canvas will melt the top layer of the coating and leave a noticeable mark.

Popular brands of adhesives for linoleum

So, the main criterion when choosing an adhesive is the type of subfloor. Absorbent and non-absorbent substrates use different formulations, and if you use the wrong adhesive, a strong bond will not work. Absorbent surfaces include cement and concrete screed, solid wood, plywood flooring, chipboard, fiberboard, OSB.

Linoleum is glued to them with water-soluble compounds, but this also has its own nuances. Plate materials, such as plywood, fiberboard and others, can be deformed from excess moisture, so for them you need to choose thick adhesive mixtures with minimal water content. For concrete floor glue consistency special significance does not have.

Floors covered with natural stone, porcelain stoneware, tiles. Here, water-soluble compounds will be ineffective, since there is nowhere for moisture to escape, and high-quality adhesion between surfaces will not work. For such bases, reaction adhesives are used, when applying which it is necessary to take precautions - use protective gloves and masks, ventilate the room.

You need to buy glue along with or after linoleum to make sure that the composition is suitable for of this coverage. The glue packaging always indicates what types of linoleum it is suitable for and what the coating base should be. Be sure to check the expiration date, because expired glue will not hold the canvas. It is best to buy adhesive compositions in construction supermarkets or large stores where there are conditions for proper storage of such materials. This is especially true for water-soluble adhesives, which completely lose their adhesive properties after freezing. The exception is special dispersions with frost-resistant additives: they can withstand 3 to 5 cycles of freezing and thawing without losing their basic characteristics.

To avoid overpaying, you should calculate before purchasing required amount glue. To do this, you first need to take measurements of the room and calculate total area coverings. As a rule, consumption varies between 200-500 g per m2 (this is influenced by the type of working surface and coating base). For example, a fabric or felt base requires more glue than foam and rubber, and a plank floor is more than a concrete screed.

Advice. You cannot mix glue of different brands, even if the name of the composition is the same. Each manufacturer has its own manufacturing technology, so the compositions may differ in the number of components, drying time, peel strength and other characteristics.

Linoleum and glue must be kept in the room where the covering will be laid for at least 24 hours. Work should be carried out at a temperature not lower than 15°C and air humidity not higher than 75%. In this case, the humidity of the floor base should not exceed 8% for wood and 2% for screed.

Immediately after applying the glue, you cannot lay linoleum; you need to let the composition dry a little for 5-10 minutes ( exact time drying is indicated on the packaging). Also, you should not apply glue in a thick layer: this will not make the fabric stick better, and excess glue will appear as thickenings and bumps on the surface of the linoleum.

Procedure for laying linoleum on glue

Laying and gluing linoleum is not difficult, although many beginners still make mistakes. Let's look at how to properly lay the coating with glue so that you don't have to redo anything.

Step 1. The floor is cleared of debris, dust, old paint or glue, mastic, grease stains. Eliminate cracks and unevenness, if necessary, use leveling mixtures. The base must be smooth, strong, dry and clean.

Step 2. The surface is treated with a primer using a roller. It is recommended to use primer and adhesive from the same manufacturer. After applying the primer, leave the room until the floor is completely dry.

Step 3. Roll out the linoleum sheet on the floor and align it with the walls. If the coating consists of several strips, mark the location of the canvas with a pencil so that the layer of glue does not protrude beyond the edge. After this, turn the linoleum halfway towards the center of the strip.

Step 4. The glue in the container is thoroughly mixed; if a film has formed on top, it must be carefully removed. Apply the composition with a special spatula A2 or B1 with small teeth. The mixture is evenly distributed over the surface so that there are no sagging or dry areas. Let it dry for a few minutes.

Step 5. Slowly and carefully, the folded edge of the linoleum is returned to its place, while straightening the edges. There should be no creases, folds or other irregularities on the canvas.

Step 6 Having rolled out the coating, begin to smooth it out. It is very important that there are no air bubbles left under the canvas, otherwise the linoleum will not stick completely and will swell in places.

Step 8 After gluing, trim the material near the walls and clean the seams from glue residues. After this, take a break for 1-2 days until the adhesive layer dries completely.

Step 9 Now you can glue the seams. Special tool or using a sharp mounting knife under a ruler, cut off all the irregularities at the joints of the strips, clean the seams along the entire length. Cold or hot welding is used for connection. Processing seams requires great care and should not be rushed, because uneven joints will be clearly visible on the coating.

After hot welding, it is necessary to cut off the welding cord protruding above the surface of the linoleum. First, a rough trim is performed, then the remaining defects are cleaned up.

If cold welding is used, the seam must first be sealed with masking tape, then cut with a knife exactly in the center. The tip of a tube of glue is inserted into the hole and passed along the joint, squeezing out the mixture into a thin strip. After this, wipe off the remaining glue and remove the tape.

Repairs should be worth the effort, and the price should not be too high. This motto often encourages the owner of the room to choose economical and “hardy” materials for renovation, such as linoleum. Manufacturers of this flooring invest in it not only a number of service advantages, but also a generous range of colors and textures. A buyer who wants to save money on repair work often asks the question: how to glue linoleum on their own and is it necessary to do it?

As a rule, any neat and practical owner will be able to apply linoleum stickers. Before moving on to the advice of experienced craftsmen, it is necessary to understand why gluing is needed for linoleum.

Why glue when you can just lay it down?

Long-term practice of laying linoleum reveals the following facts:

Important! Glued linoleum is extremely difficult to dismantle, so adhesive installation implies a long service life of the flooring material. The glue must be of high quality so as not to leak onto the surface of the panel. The covering cannot be laid on soft surfaces (carpet or laminate underlay). But it is allowed to stick linoleum on linoleum if the owner is sure that the old layer holds strong enough.

Required Tools

Whether it is necessary to glue linoleum - each owner decides based on personal considerations and the technical characteristics of the room. Based on this decision, the foundation will be prepared. To conveniently lay and properly glue linoleum, the master will need a number of the following tools:

• roulette;
• masking tape (and double-sided);

  

• marker;
• notched spatula;
• long screws;
• belt grinder;
• dense rubber roller;
• scissors large and small;
• metal ruler;
• glue and rubber gloves (respiratory mask).

Particular attention should be paid to the glue: the entire result of the repair will depend on it. To decide what is better for gluing linoleum, you need to pay attention to the type of material and type of floor.

Watch the video to know about the tools:

Which glue to choose?

There are two main types of linoleum glue:

• dispersive (for use in residential premises);
• reactionary (for “cold welding” of sheets).

Dispersion types of glue are intended for continuous gluing of a single piece of fabric. This glue is very elastic and environmentally friendly, but has its drawbacks. Low temperatures and excessive humidity are unacceptable during transportation and storage of glue: it will lose its binding properties.

Types of dispersion glue:

• acrylate (for rooms with high traffic);
• bustilate (suitable for a dense type of coating on a warm felt base);
• humilax (contains rubber/latex, which is suitable for natural types of materials);
• bitumen mastic (for soft coverings with a fabric base);
• conductive (needed in rooms containing many electrical appliances).

Using a notched trowel, apply any of these types of glue to the entire surface of the floor - a thin layer of approximately 0.5 mm in thickness. Then the linoleum panels are pressed firmly to the floor. Use a thick rubber roller to walk over the canvas, squeezing out excess air.

The reaction type of glue implies chemical reaction. It has a distinct pungent odor and is quite dangerous for household use, so you must carefully study the instructions on how to properly glue materials with it. A reaction type of glue is used to join the edges of canvases - this procedure is called “cold welding”. The reaction group adhesive itself is divided into types of density.

Types of reaction glue:

• A - liquid composition for joining new hard-type panels. After joining, a transparent, strong, invisible seam is obtained. To carry out such “welding”, you need to do a few simple manipulations. The gap between the sheets must be cleaned, dried and sealed with masking tape. Next, you need to carefully cut the tape where the panels join and squeeze the glue into the gap through the slot. It is recommended to keep the seams short - up to 60 cm. The adhesive tape can be removed after 20 minutes, but the glue will completely harden after an hour.
• C is a semi-liquid composition for restoring the divergent seam between the sheets of the old floor covering. The glue forms a thick seam and is capable of restoring a gap up to 5 mm wide.
• T – thick composition for joining PVC sheets to polyester. This subtype of reaction glue is approved for use only by professionals.

Important! When carrying out procedures with reactive glue, it is dangerous to work without gloves and a respiratory mask. If the reaction glue gets on the linoleum, a mark cannot be avoided, so it is better to always keep the tube above a rag. If a drop of glue does get on the linoleum, you need to wait for it to harden and then carefully separate it with a knife.

Laying linoleum on a wooden floor

Linoleum is often used for economical renovation of Khrushchev-era apartment buildings, where the floor is made of boards. Before you figure out how to glue linoleum, you need to take a closer look at wooden floor and assess its condition. In 90% of cases, unsightly wood requires pre-treatment.

Linoleum can be glued to a wooden floor when:

• the floor surface is perfectly flat (otherwise the linoleum will take on crooked shapes);
• the boards are firmly fixed, do not creak or rattle (an unstable floor will sooner or later lead to a defect in the canvas);
• the floor is free from mold and does not contain traces of paint (otherwise a reaction will occur with the glue, which will cause stains on the surface of the material).

By laying linoleum on a wooden floor, the owner receives another economic advantage: the boards serve as a high-quality heat insulator, so an insulating layer for linoleum will not be needed. But if at least one requirement for the condition of the boards is missing, then it will not be possible to properly glue linoleum to a wooden floor. Therefore, preparatory procedures will be needed.

Removing paint marks

Before gluing linoleum onto the boards, you need to clean them of paint:

• with a belt grinder - you can also level the boards from unevenness;
• a special penetrating agent - it softens the paint so that it can be easily removed with a spatula;
• construction hairdryer ( blowtorch) is a quick, but not always easy way to remove paint, because... the room gets very hot, and soot may remain on the walls and ceiling.

Surface treatment and leveling

Among all the materials used to level the floor, birch plywood is the most economical and safe. Under linoleum you will need sheets 6-12 mm thick. But, before gluing the linoleum to the plywood, you need to process individual fragments of the floor. After tearing off the baseboard (or one floor board), you need to find out where the joists are located. Each board will need to be additionally screwed to the joist using a long self-tapping screw. Place wooden wedges in the gaps between the boards to eliminate squeaks. Rotten areas will need to be replaced. Then you need to go over the floor with a belt sander and remove any unevenness, otherwise the flexible plywood will take them over. Vacuum the floor.

Next, you should measure the sheets and place them on the floor in the optimal way. The plywood should rest for several days, after which the sheets can be fixed with small self-tapping screws. The step should be no more than 15 cm, otherwise the sheets will swell and creak when walking. There should be no gaps between the sheets, but a gap of 1 cm is needed near the wall (to prevent bubbles when the humidity in the room increases). If one layer of plywood does not eliminate all height differences from the floor, then you can lay a second layer on top.

Watch the video to find out more:

Preparation of linoleum

Before gluing linoleum to plywood, it must be brought into finished look. Usually the material is stored rolled up. If you fold linoleum in layers, it can be ruined. The canvas, warmed to room temperature, must be laid out on the floor, the material allowed to rest and smooth out for up to 3 days. It is necessary to provide a supply of material on each side (the excess can then be easily cut off). Cut the corners to fit the size of the room - bend the canvas and make marks on the back side with a marker. You always need to cut the fabric with a margin, since there can be no corrections.

If the owner still doubts whether it is necessary to glue linoleum in small room, you can try using double-sided tape. Such fixation can easily be replaced with adhesive in the near future. In this case, the linoleum will not be damaged. The method of attaching with tape is very simple. The resting material must be rolled up halfway across the room and glued to the floor with strips of tape (along the room at intervals of 40 cm from the wall). Then you need to remove the protective film from the strips and carefully return the canvas to its place, avoiding its displacement. Smooth with a roller. Repeat the same procedure with the second half.

Before gluing linoleum to a complex-shaped floor with different niches, radiators, etc., you will need to make special patterns from thick paper sheets, which are then transferred to the canvas on the reverse side. For ease of cutting, you need scissors of different sizes.

Gluing

In the video you will learn more:

Before gluing linoleum, dispersion glue is placed on the plywood over the entire surface. If the room is large and you need to join the pattern on two canvases, you will have to use the “cold welding” method. First, one half of the room is treated with glue, the one further from the door. Then the adhesive is applied to the canvas. The linoleum is laid on the floor and carefully rolled with a roller to remove excess air from under the canvas. The second sheet is glued in the same way, but it should overlap the bottom layer. Thus, by cutting 2 sheets at once with a knife along a ruler, you can achieve a perfectly even seam. The docking will need to be coated fresh glue. Then, according to the instructions, use reaction glue to “weld” the canvases.

It is necessary to take into account many nuances, since gluing linoleum to the floor yourself is both a simple and complex task. The quality of the interior and the service life of the linoleum will depend on how seriously the owner takes the procedure.

Glue is rarely used in everyday life for laying linoleum. The need for it arises in the case of active movement of people or movement of large, heavy objects through the premises. You can easily handle the work of gluing the coating yourself if you know how and with what to glue the linoleum to the concrete floor, which should be done to securely fix the flexible coating.

Specifics of gluing linoleum to concrete

Under concrete base refers to all types of base floors in the construction or production of which cement powder was used. Depending on the purpose of the premises, linoleum is laid on floor slabs with joints pre-filled with mortar and a leveling layer applied, and on numerous types of semi-dry and wet screeds.

The listed base options differ in the percentage of sand, gravel or crushed stone filler. Despite the difference in composition, they all belong to the category of absorbent subfloors - i.e. capable of absorbing, “pulling” and holding liquid, gaseous and even solid components of adjacent materials.

The adsorption characteristic of concrete floors is a remarkable quality if the coating is planned to be laid forever. However, it is rare that the owner of a house or apartment does not want to periodically change the interior; moreover, the most durable brands of commercial linoleum tend to wear out. Therefore, gluing technology involves the use of compounds that make it possible to remove the material without problems.

At the same time, adhesives must hold the coating tightly during operation. Modifiers should not be “washed out” from linoleum if they were present during production. Therefore, when gluing, you should use only those adhesive options that are recommended by a specific manufacturer for fixing a specific brand of their product.

Suitable for gluing to a rough concrete floor:

• Linoleums with an insulating base. The back side of them is equipped with a woven or non-woven backing that prevents the passage of heat and sound waves.
• Alkyd linoleums. Otherwise, glyphthalic type of coating. It is made with a base of woven or non-woven fabric.

You can stick both household and commercial brands of linoleum. More often this is done with the latter, because the former need not be fixed with glue at all.

Baseless brands of linoleum cannot adhere directly to a concrete sub-base. To lay them on a concrete floor, a preliminary layer of dry leveling made of plywood, fiberboard, chipboard and similar materials is required. OSB boards are suitable for use as a dry screed under linoleum if the thickness of the laid coating is more than 4 mm.

When gluing linoleum, the following are used:

• Dispersion compositions. These include the well-known Bustilat, ADM-K, AK, Gumilax and their foreign analogues. They are used for fixing linoleums on insulating substrates and fabric bases. Gluing is carried out immediately after applying the dispersion adhesive system with a layer of 6 - 7 mm on the concrete base.
• Bitumen mastics and adhesives. These include “Biski”, domestic and foreign bitumen-polymer compositions. Used when gluing linoleums with a fabric base. Gluing is carried out 15 - 20 minutes after application with a layer of 4 - 5 mm.
• Mastics based on synthetic rubbers and resins. These are various variations of oil-chalk, varnish-chalk, bitumen-chalk, casein-cement systems, such as KN-2, KN-3, “Perminid”. Used for gluing PVC and alkyd linoleums without substrates. Apply in a layer of 3 – 4 mm.

Mastics, created on the basis of artificial resins and rubbers, are applied to the base and to the back side of the floor covering with a spatula or even a brush. Linoleum is not glued to this glue immediately, but after waiting until it becomes “tack-free” - i.e. spontaneous weathering of excess solvent from the composition applied to the subfloor. Only then the back side of the material is covered with a 2-3 mm layer of mastic, and after 10 - 15 minutes it is glued on.

The first two of these types of adhesive systems are applied to the rough base using plastic, metal or notched spatulas. The size of the teeth is determined by the required thickness of the applied layer. When applying mastics with a synthetic base, you should not use a metal spatula due to the risk of fire and the likelihood of an explosion upon contact with metal.

Excess glue that appears in the seams after gluing must be immediately removed with a rag. Any mastic that gets on your hands is removed with a suitable solvent; dispersion adhesives are easily washed off with water.

Depending on the dimensions of the room, gluing is carried out over the entire area, along the perimeter, or only along the butt seams, if any. The joints are glued with Perminid or TGF-70M. In rooms up to 20 m², full gluing is not necessary. In residential areas it is generally better to use double-sided tape, placing it exclusively around the perimeter.

Gluing technology step by step

If the optimal coating has been selected and, in accordance with it, it has been determined what to use to glue the linoleum, you can begin to study the technology and subsequent work. Let's consider two main methods according to which household and commercial brands of linoleum are fixed to a concrete floor.

Conditions for performing work

Please note that the base must be carefully prepared before gluing and repaired if necessary. Under the two meter rule or building level, applied to the rough base in all directions, there should be no gaps larger than 2 mm. The baseboard should be removed. The floor needs to be swept thoroughly, vacuumed if necessary, and dried thoroughly.

If you plan to glue with compounds KN-2 or KN-3, the maximum moisture content of the leveling concrete screed must be no more than 4%. Its optimal value for the use of all other listed systems is 5%. However, when using bitumen mastics The humidity of the subfloor is allowed to be 10%, although it is recommended to dry it better.

The temperature in the room being finished should not be lower than 15ºС. In addition, the material needs to “get used” to environment. Adaptation will take at least a couple of days, during which the coating is simply left in the room. Rolls that adapt to upcoming operating conditions are not rolled out.

Mandatory preparatory stage

Before gluing, the concrete floor must be covered with primer, the composition of which is suitable for use in conjunction with the selected adhesive. Compatibility is usually specified by the manufacturer. If the coating will be glued to bitumen and bitumen-polymer mastics, then it can be primed with the same mastic diluted with gasoline in a ratio of 1:2 or 1:3. The first number indicates the proportion of mastic.

When using adhesives with a synthetic base, priming is carried out with drying oil.

In general, there is an opinion that the back side of the linoleum should also be covered with primer. To do this, it is first cut out and laid out in an inverted position in adjacent room. However, it is not always possible to carry out such priming, therefore in most cases only the subfloor is primed.

Before the start of work, i.e. Even before preparing the concrete floor, you should drill holes in the walls for installing the plinth. The installation height of the plinth must be calculated in advance. It should not press the linoleum, but only touch its surface. We equip the holes with dowels or wooden plugs, depending on the fasteners used. The attachment points for the threshold strips in the floor are formed in the same way.

Instructions for gluing household linoleum

Household grade linoleum is usually laid as a single sheet. The width of the material is 4 - 5 m, which allows us in our apartment realities not to strain with cutting, fitting and making seams. Trimming of the whole canvas is carried out exclusively around the perimeter. Moreover, you don’t have to worry too much about the quality and evenness of the cut; all flaws will be covered up when the work is completed with a plinth.

Household linoleum is not as hard and fragile as its commercial counterpart, therefore it does not require close attention and accuracy when laying out and folding/unfolding. But they last less than commercial options, whose fragility is explained by their increased abrasion resistance.

Despite the flexibility and ability to quickly level, household linoleums still need to be given time to rest before applying the sticker. They say goodbye to waviness faster than their commercial counterparts.

However, until the material becomes perfectly smooth, you should not start fixing it with glue. If the panel significantly exceeds the size of the floor, it must be trimmed, leaving approximately 5 cm on each side.

Algorithm for cutting household linoleum:

• We roll out and lay the linoleum panel so that its edges extend onto the walls of the room by about 5 cm.
• We remove air accumulations under the coating - “drive them out” with a brush, working from the center to the periphery. You can do all this with your feet wearing felt boots. Then we forget about the coating until it goes wrong.
• Having made sure that the waves have disappeared, we proceed to cutting the linoleum. We press down the covering with a metal ruler along the line where the wall meets the floor, and cut it off strictly along the ruler. Please note that there should be a gap of about 0.5 cm, maximum 1 cm, between the wall and the edge of the canvas.
• Carrying out trimming external corners. To do this, bend the fabric with the inside facing up. We place a piece of board or fiberboard under the hem so as not to damage the part of the covering lying on the floor. 5 cm from the corner we make an incision on the bent part and finally cut it.
• We make trimming internal corners. Here, first we fold the edge of the panel in the form of the letter V. We cut the fold into two parts in the center, then we put the cut edges on top of each other and cut along the corner line.

Material around pipe penetrations and in doorway First we cut it with some margin. They will need to be carefully cut after the final fixation of the linoleum.

After cutting, we again forget about the coating for a couple of days so that the waves formed by the roll delivery format straighten out. In addition, the material must be accepted stable shape: It will stretch or shrink slightly. At this time, we remember or find out what kind of glue we can use to glue linoleum to a concrete floor, and purchase it according to the consumption specified by the manufacturer.

After the required technological break, we will begin gluing:

• Let's peel back half of the resting linoleum.
• Using a notched trowel, apply it to the concrete base and distribute the adhesive composition evenly. IN small spaces it can be applied in the form of a grid or only along the edge of the panel.
• We return half of the coating back either immediately if we use dispersion adhesive, or wait the period required by technology if we used products with a bitumen or synthetic base.
• Smooth the coating until the glue sets. For smoothing, it is advisable to stock up on a construction roller, a large-sized rolling pin or similar device. We carefully and methodically expel air accumulations from under the linoleum, moving from the middle of the room to the periphery.
• We do the same with the second part of the cloth.

The edge of the covering must be placed under doorjamb. To do this, the platband will have to be slightly filed. In the area of ​​the doorway, it is desirable that the material runs through the center.

If on the floor large room If you need to fix two panels, then both parts of the coating are glued according to the described scheme. The difference is that glue is not applied in strips under the edges of the sides to be joined. The width of the “dry” strips is approximately 10–15 cm. And the linoleum panels are laid with an overlap of 2–3 cm.

The joint line needs to be thought out during the cutting period. The fabrics must be laid out and cut so that the factory edges appear along the seam line. Those. First, one strip is actually cut, then the roll is turned over and directed in the opposite direction. It should be taken into account that when working according to this scheme, the coating with a pattern must be carefully combined so that there is no discrepancy in the ornament.

Two, or better yet, three days after gluing the panels, the elastic coating assumed a relatively stable size. Relative, because during operation, linoleum will still stretch and shrink somewhat due to temperature changes. However, you can start cutting the seams without fear.

Taking into account the combination of the ornament, we apply a rule or a metal ruler to the line of the upcoming cut. You need to cut two layers at once. Afterwards, we will remove the trimmings and fold back the unglued edges of the panels. We apply the same glue again using the same method that we used to glue the main body of linoleum.

Glue the edges, press to expel the air and remove any excess glue that appears in the seam. Then we roll the joint with a roller, press it down with a board or similar weight and forget about it for another 2 days. Finally, we attach the baseboard. We install a threshold strip in the doorway. All.

A Guide to Commercial Linoleum

The standard width of commercial grades is 2 m plus/minus 10 - 20 cm. It can be laid without joints only on the floor of narrow covered terraces, corridors or small rooms. A big plus is that there is no need to combine the design when cutting, because The design of most options is simple and non-marking. The color is maintained in one tone or resembles a concrete floor with marble chips.

When working with commercial linoleum, you should handle it with extreme caution. It is brittle: it cannot be tightly rolled up or loaded when rolled up. Do not bend it too much to form an overlap on the wall. You can only roll it into a roll for applying floor glue. large diameter. The material should be unbent carefully so as not to damage it.

In general, gluing work is carried out in the same order as that used when fixing two sheets of household linoleum. However, there are specific rules for cutting and gluing commercial linoleum.

Commercial linoleum options:

• They are considered non-shrinking, therefore there is no need to leave a technological gap between the walls and the coating.
• They can be cut into walls in the form of original plinths or strictly along the line where the floor meets the wall.
• When replacing the floor during repairs, cutting along the edge of the baseboard is allowed if it is not planned to replace it.
• The air from under the newly glued covering is squeezed out with a piece of chipboard or similar material wrapped soft cloth in several layers. By analogy with the household option, bolsters and your own feet in felt boots can be used in this case.
• The rolls, rolled up to half, are laid on the floor treated with glue, rolling out gradually while forcing out the air.

Cutting butt seams is also no different from the previous method. But it is not necessary to cut two layers at once. If they are too thick, it is permissible to cut through the top edge first, then the bottom. After cutting, the edges of the panels are also folded back, the base is glued and the material returned to its place is fixed. If the seam diverges in places, correct the position by welding.

The video will help you understand how to properly glue linoleum to a concrete floor: the video clearly presents the process:

The work of gluing linoleum cannot be called easy, but there are no particular difficulties in the technology. To perform it, you do not need the skills of a finisher. If you follow the rules, the floor will be perfect.

Linoleum floor coverings Although wear-resistant, they still require replacement over time. In such cases, many people wonder whether it is possible to lay new beautiful linoleum on the tarnished old one? You will learn about how to glue linoleum and in which cases it is better to remove the old coating from this article.

Is it necessary to glue linoleum to the old flooring?

Features of laying linoleum over old

Although many experts may object to this method, it also has certain advantages. So, is it possible and necessary to cover it with linoleum? What are the benefits of this?

• Providing a level base, which greatly facilitates the installation process.
• Short preparatory work. You just need to sweep and degrease the surface.
• Old linoleum will serve as a substrate, which is not exactly cheap.
• There is no need to dismantle the old coating.

Important! Before laying linoleum over the old coating, you need to make sure that this decision is correct.

An inspection of the old covering can help you decide whether it is possible to lay a new one on top of the old flooring.

• It should not have strong elevation changes. The maximum permissible difference is 2 mm. After all, the new canvas will completely repeat the shape of the base.
• Defects in the form of potholes or waves are also unacceptable. There should also be no sharp areas on the surface.
• The old coating should provide a rigid base.
• Linoleum should not be wet. It is also not recommended to carry out installation when low temperatures. Optimal temperature installation 16–18 degrees.

When buying new linoleum, it is advised to consider thick products that will have a solid base. Since as a substrate there will be old linoleum, then thickness is not the most important parameter.

How to glue linoleum to an old linoleum floor

How to glue linoleum to the floor without much difficulty? It is enough to do the following.

Preparatory stage

The first stage will consist of preparatory work. At this stage, you need to remove all the furniture from the room, remove the baseboards and strips that connect several panels.

Prepare necessary materials and means to make a smooth and reliable base: gloves, reaction glue for cold welding, masking tape, knife, spatula.

After all the baseboards and decorative thresholds have been removed, you need to make all the connections of the panels tight and even. To do this, do the following:

• At the junction of the canvases, masking tape is glued. It will serve as a limiter to prevent the glue from spreading over the entire surface.
• In the masking tape, you need to make a cut along the entire length with a knife.
• A special adhesive for cold welding must be applied to the prepared cut seam. For convenience, use a pointed tube.

• After 10-15 minutes have passed, you can remove the masking tape.
• After another hour or so, the glue will dry completely, then it will be possible to level the surface. Using a sharp knife, cut off the excess and protruding parts of the seam.

After the seams are sealed, it is necessary to clean the surface from debris and dust, and then degrease the surface.

Material cutting

The preparatory stage will not be accompanied by an immediate transition to installation. The first step is to cut the roll to cover the entire area of ​​the room.

Important! It is best to use a whole cloth. How to properly glue linoleum with a solid sheet? This is much easier because there is no need to seal the seams.

You need to cut the canvas with a margin so that the linoleum extends slightly onto the walls. The excess will be subsequently cut off. Having cut the roll into several parts, it is necessary to lay the sheets at the installation site and leave them for a day so that they rest and take the correct shape.

Moreover, if there are two or more canvases, then they should overlap before gluing the linoleum. After gluing the linoleum is completed, it is imperative to weld the seams cut along the ruler.

Gluing linoleum

The new linoleum will be glued using glue. There are two types of adhesives:

• water-based dispersive;
• reactionary.

The peculiarity of the first is that it does not stick strongly to the base, so it is used over the entire area of ​​the base. Reactive adhesive binds the coating to the base at the molecular level, so the places where it is used are at the edges and a couple of points in the middle.

The installation process with dispersion adhesive is more complicated because it requires more work. First, the linoleum is rolled in half into a roll. The glue is spread on a notched trowel and spread over the exposed part of the base. After which they begin to roll out the roll on the floor, gradually attaching it with glue. Then the other part is glued in the same way.

It's much easier with reaction glue. The roll is also folded in half and the two parts are glued alternately, with glue applied only to some areas. To ensure the best adhesion, it is recommended to use a roller that is rolled over the surface.

Sealing seams

The final stage of installation will be sealing the seams. As already noted, the canvases are laid overlapping each other. Take a ruler or a long rule, according to which both canvases are cut at the same time. The resulting seam is sealed in the same way as described above.

As you can see, installation is not at all difficult. The main criterion for durability will be the choice of adhesive composition, which I would like to dwell on in more detail.

How to glue linoleum

As already mentioned, the choice may fall on dispersion or reaction glue. The first type of glue requires more mass, while the second is more expensive. But due to the peculiarities of use, the consumption of linoleum glue will result in one cost.

Let's take a closer look at representatives of dispersive and reactive adhesive compositions: how to glue linoleum to linoleum reliably and safely for health?

Dispersion adhesives

Almost all representatives of the dispersion composition have water base, which is easily diluted and reduces its quality when exposed to moisture. Because this type glue is not very suitable if the humidity of the screed exceeds permissible norm.

Positive trait is that laying linoleum on dispersion glue will not be accompanied by sharp unpleasant odors. They do not contain substances harmful to health, therefore they are absolutely safe.

As already noted, the low cost of dispersion adhesives is also an important factor.

Dispersion adhesives can be divided into the following subtypes:

• Acrylate. Intended for material of commercial and semi-commercial classes. It adheres well to concrete and wood, as well as to old linoleum.
• Bustilate for felt linoleum. It has latex, chalk and polyvinyl acetate resins in its structure and is used for felt linoleums for laying on concrete, fiberboard and wood.
• Gumilax. The base is latex and rubber. Intended more for natural homogeneous linoleums.
• Bitumen resin. It is waterproofing and intended for conditions of high humidity.
• Antistatic adhesives. Scope of application: rooms with a high content of electrical equipment.

Important! Most adhesive-based compounds can lose their properties when exposed to negative temperatures. Therefore, it is worth paying attention to the date of manufacture and the degree of resistance to low temperatures.

Reaction adhesives

These compositions were called reactive because high gluing results are achieved through complex polymerization at the molecular level.

The reaction compositions form a durable and load-resistant layer that is not so easy to dismantle. In addition, they improve the soundproofing qualities of the material.

Due to the fact that the coating becomes durable, they are used to a greater extent for installing linoleum in commercial premises. There is no need to use it for domestic use, because the intensity of use will be much lower, and the adhesives contain harmful components.

There are the following types of reaction adhesives:

• Polyurethane. This type has good adhesion and is suitable for use with various types building materials. The hardener consists of a non-toxic substance, so it can be used for residential premises.
• Epoxy. Two-component adhesive consisting of epoxy resin and a special hardener, it is characterized by increased strength, but can be harmful to health. Verdict - a coating mounted on epoxy adhesive is not suitable for domestic conditions.

Regardless of the choice of adhesive composition, in order to improve the adhesion of the adhesive to the linoleum covering, it is recommended to use a primer layer.

Laying linoleum on linoleum is not at all difficult. In this case, you need to decide what kind of glue to glue the linoleum with, because not every composition is able to provide reliable adhesion to the linoleum surface.

How to glue felt linoleum on the old coating:

Glue for linoleum - not everyone uses it when laying, however, according to technology, the use of adhesives is mandatory. Adhesives are used both for fixing linoleum to the floor and for gluing seams, which cannot be avoided in any case.

In this article you will find detailed information on how to choose the right glue, information on prices, how to glue linoleum and seal seams.

Indeed, not everyone understands the need to use it. However, this element is quite important.

Gluing the linoleum in the first place will prevent it from shifting and “wavy”, which often happens when such flooring is actively used. And if you don’t use glue, if the canvas moves or “waves” appear, you will have to remove all the furniture from the room, dismantle the plinths and re-lay the covering. Agree, not too much pleasant procedure, which could have been prevented simply by using special glue.

However, we note that glue is needed for large rooms, more than 4 meters wide. If your rooms are smaller, then using glue is not necessary. Glue is also required for commercial coating technology (Tarkett).

Adhesives are also used to seal linoleum seams. This gives the floor more aesthetics and will also save you money. Savings are achieved because in the case of cold welding linoleum with glue, you do not have to buy metal thresholds, which cost at least 100 rubles each.

Watch the video below for an example.

What glue should I use to glue linoleum to the floor?

The main question in this article is what glue to use for gluing linoleum to the floor.

First of all, it is worth noting that the correct glue should be selected depending on the type of coating, i.e. One type is suitable for a concrete floor, another type is suitable for a wooden floor (plywood, boards, etc.).

The most common PVA is excellent as a glue for linoleum on a wooden floor. After all, the task of gluing linoleum is not to glue it “forever.” PVA glue will cope with its task on plywood, OSB, chipboard, fiberboard, etc.

With a concrete floor, everything is a little more complicated, but for this case there are special compounds that can be easily found on the shelves of hardware stores.

What glue should I choose in this case? — It’s better to read the packaging, because... different manufacturers can make adhesives for different types of surfaces or universal compositions.

In particular, the following are popular: Khomakol, Forbo, Bustilat, Tomzit, Sintex, etc. When you come across these names on the construction market, read the purpose on the packaging and what materials they are glued together, and then pay attention to the price, because you don’t always want to overpay for such a trifle. As reviews show, these compositions have proven themselves well.

The glue consumption for linoleum is on average 0.4 kilograms per 1 square meter. Consumption greatly depends on the type of coating (wooden or concrete) and on the size of the room, because in small rooms there is no need to strongly glue the new covering.

Glue prices

Because We are considering adhesives for two different activities (gluing and sealing seams), then we will study prices for both types.

Universal dispersion adhesive for linoleum, in a 3 kg jar, will cost from 500 to 1000 rubles. In general, this should be enough for an average apartment.

The cost of adhesives for welding both types of seams, sold in small tubes, is about 170 rubles.

How to glue linoleum to the floor

According to the technology, moisture-resistant dispersion glue must be applied in a thin layer to the linoleum. However, it is not at all necessary to apply the composition to the entire surface. It is enough to make “strokes” in places over the entire area, in the corners and joints.

When laying linoleum, the adhesive composition is usually applied to the floor.

After applying the glue, it will “give” for some time, so you can level the linoleum sheet before the glue begins to harden. Each quick-drying glue has its own characteristics, so read the instructions before use.

Watch a video with an example of gluing linoleum. If work is carried out in an apartment or small house, then you can use liquid nails, gluing the linoleum in places after completely leveling its surface.

What adhesives to use for seams

There are different types of glue for butt gluing linoleum. First of all, some differ in the “naturalness” of your coating. After all, there are natural linoleums, and there are synthetic ones. Depending on this, you need to select glue.

Also, for seams there are several types of adhesive compositions: A and C types.

A-type glue used if the linoleum seams are smooth and the gap between them is minimal. In this case, such glue will fill the gap and glue the linoleum securely and unnoticeably.

C-type glue used if the cracks are not even and quite wide (from 1 to 3 millimeters). This composition is more viscous and will completely fill the gap.

How to glue linoleum seams

In order to glue the joints of linoleum, special compounds are used, sold in tubes. We wrote about them a little higher. So, in order to glue the seams, according to the instructions, stick a strip of tape on them (usually paper masking tape) and make a cut on it with a stationery knife at the joint.

After this, carefully pour glue into the gap. The tape will prevent excess glue from getting onto the linoleum. After the glue is applied to the entire joint, you need to wait the time indicated on the tube (usually 10-15 minutes). After which you can remove the tape and enjoy the result.