Linear storm drainage work stages. Do-it-yourself storm drainage - an example of performing work from “A to Z”

Sometimes for a summer resident, long-awaited rain at the height of the season becomes a real natural disaster. As a result of a prolonged summer rain, as well as during a spring flood, a real lake may form on the site.

In order to avoid stagnation of water, a system for collecting and draining it from the territory is needed. If built storm drain with your own hands, then the costs of its construction will be minimal.

The article presented for review describes in detail the principle of constructing an atmospheric water drainage system and describes the components of the structure. We will tell you how best to build it and how to maintain it. Taking into account our advice, organizing a storm drain will not cause the slightest difficulty.

Storm drainage is a specific design. The water discharged through this system contains both small and large debris. Therefore, there must be primary cleaning in the storm drain.

The system may differ in the volume of water it is able to accept, design, and duration of effective operation.

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Storm sewerage is a system of canals, water inlets, sand traps, inspection and collector wells built in the ground. It is designed to collect and drain rainwater from the territory.

The installation of a storm drain will prevent watering of the site during flood periods and during heavy rainfall, which is especially important for areas with clay soils

The storm drain will protect the underground parts of structures from erosion by water and will prevent subsidence of the foundations due to eroded soil underneath them.

Connection with drainage system

The principle of point sewerage

Paving a storm drain area

Types of storm water inlets for sewerage

The purpose of a rainwater inlet is to collect moisture coming from pipes and yard coverings. This element is the first to absorb the entire volume of water coming from the drainpipes. When choosing a rainwater inlet, we are guided by such data as the average volume of precipitation, its intensity, topography, and the area occupied by the storm drain.

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The method of installing a storm sewer depends on the type of water intake device chosen for its construction

A system with point water intakes located directly under the drain risers is arranged in the form of pipes laid in the ground

A storm drain with linear water intakes is a network of channels covered with a grid made of steel alloy, plastic or cast iron, depending on the required load-bearing capacity

Both point and linear water intakes are covered with protective and decorative grilles. They are needed for ease of movement around the site, preventing accidents and protecting the system from clogging with leaves, branches, dust

Storm drain with linear water inlet

Point rainwater system

Installation of storm drainage trays

Protective decorative grille

You can buy a cast iron or plastic storm inlet. The former are preferable in case of heavy loads, while the latter are attractive due to their moderate cost, low weight, simplifying installation. More cheap option- make a rainwater well for storm drainage at your dacha yourself from brick.

The walls of the pit are lined with brick, leaving a hole for the pipe, then plastered from the inside. Better yet, leave a gap between the soil wall and the cover and fill it with concrete. The bottom of the rainwater inlet must be concreted.

No storm drain can do without a rainwater inlet. It preserves both the foundation of the building and the covering around it. If you try to save money on its installation, then water falling on the foundation will lead to shrinkage and cracks on the walls of the building

Do this important element and from concrete rings. Then the bottom ring can be purchased with a finished bottom and you won’t have to fill the slab. Sometimes factory rain inlets go on sale complete with a basket, siphon, and decorative grille.

Most often used for private construction, rainwater inlets made of plastic or composite materials are produced in the shape of a cube, each side of which is 30-40 cm. There are adapters for inserting pipes from below and on all sides of the product.

In order not to clog the pipes with debris falling through the grid cells, rainwater inlets are equipped with baskets. Once they are full, they are removed and cleaned, then returned to their place.

The design of the factory rainwater inlet includes partitions dividing it inner space into compartments and creating a water seal. As a result bad smell from decaying organic matter does not penetrate outside.

The efficiency of a point storm drain depends not only on its volume, but also on the installation location. It should be located under a drain or in a place where moisture constantly collects. If it is installed under a pipe, then the jets must accurately hit the center of the grate, otherwise some of the water will fall on the foundation or yard surface in the form of splashes.

Why are sand traps needed?

Rain and melt water in any case contains a certain percentage of insoluble particles. If sand traps are not included in the scheme, dirt will settle in the sewer and it will cease to function fully. Flushing the system is expensive.

A sand trap is a chamber installed behind point receivers in places where water is discharged into underground pipes. It is designed in such a way that the flow of water entering it reduces its speed.

As a result, under the influence of gravity, suspended particles sink to the bottom, and the liquid released from them leaves through a special hole. The shape of the sand catcher is a trap with many chambers located horizontally or a chamber in a vertical design.

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Point storm water inlets are equipped with devices for retaining sand and filtering water. In fact, such a system does not require additional sand-collecting components

In combined stormwater systems, sand traps are installed in linear sections and before discharge into the collector/absorber.

The dimensions and volume of sand traps depend on the volume of collected water and the class of the storm sewer itself

Regardless of the size, all types of sand catchers are equipped with devices for collecting sand, allowing you to empty the device in a simple and accessible way

The sand trap is built into the rain inlet

Sand traps in combined systems

Sand catcher for public storm drainage

Trap device for household system

What are drainage channels?

If the blind area around the house has already been completed, but the drainage system has not been taken care of, drainage gutters, which are also called linear rainwater inlets, can be used as a way out of the situation. Channels made of concrete or plastic are laid outside the blind area parallel to the paths and roof overhangs with a slight slope.

Linear drainage channels receive water from roof gutters and from the entire yard covered with asphalt or slabs. Such a sewer can cover much more objects than a point one. When purchasing ready-made trays, you need to pay attention to such important parameters as class permissible load and mechanical strength limit.

The tray, at first glance, is a very simple product, but if the calculation is done incorrectly, the system will not work fully. It is necessary to take into account the throughput of the storm drain, the type of coating, and the degree of contamination of the drained water.

The weakest products are marked A15. This means that their use is permissible with a maximum load of up to 1.5 tons. They are installed around the perimeter of the house, in pedestrian and bicycle areas. Trays of class B125 can handle loads of up to 12.5 tons without compromising their integrity. They will not be damaged by the weight passenger car, so they are appropriate in the garage area.

For private construction, you should not buy massive concrete gutters; plastic trays are quite suitable here. They have strength classes A, B, C. The material for their manufacture is polyethylene or polypropylene.

An important parameter when selecting trays is the hydraulic section, denoted by the abbreviation DN. It must correspond to the diameter of the pipes supplied to these elements. For plastic gutters, the DN value ranges from 70 to 300.

The length of a standard tray is 1 m. The products are equipped with a locking system, with its help the gutters can be lined up in one line, connected to pipes or branches can be made. A rational choice for a summer house, private home - models from DN100 to DN200.

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Manufacturers of storm sewer assembly kits offer a wide selection of trays that vary in bandwidth and the material used in production

To equip areas with pedestrian traffic, storm sewer system components are made from galvanized steel. This is not the most durable option, attracting mainly due to its simplicity of construction.

Concrete and polymer-sand products will last at least 50 years. They handle transport loads without problems, including the weight of cargo units. However, due to the weight of the trays and the need to use construction equipment for installation, they are rarely used in the private sector

As in any system consisting of underground pipes There must be a well in the storm drain.

Its installation is advisable in the following circumstances:

• if 2 or more flows converge;
• when it is necessary to radically change the height, direction of the pipeline or its slope;
• if there is a need to switch to a larger pipe diameter.

Wells are also provided at established intervals of straight sections of the system. If the diameter of the well does not exceed 150 mm, then the next one is located at a distance of 30 to 35 m. With a diameter of 200 mm - from 45 to 50 m, and if the diameter is 0.5 m, the interval is increased to 70-75 m.

The diameter of a well in a private house does not exceed 1 m. The deeper the well, the larger its diameter should be.

Some owners lay out wells the old fashioned way from brick or reinforced concrete rings. Others prefer more advanced materials - plastic and fiberglass. According to their design, wells are either collapsible or solid.

They have the shape of a cylinder with a completely sealed bottom and a hole at the top. There are nozzles for connecting pipes. Several assembled storm water inlets are also used as wells.

All fluid flows are redirected to the collector after combining them into one. The choice of material for this storm drainage element is individual and depends on the preferences and capabilities of the owner

To redirect the collected water to ground treatment facilities or to a sewer, a collector is included in the system. Sometimes his role is played by a big one. It is converted into a storage tank by hermetically sealing the outlet pipes. To use water, a submersible pump is used.

Large cross-section pipes are also used for the collector - reinforced concrete or plastic with all pipelines connected to them. On the construction market you can also purchase ready-made containers for underground use. There are multi-chamber tanks where rain and melt water are treated according to the same principle as in septic tanks.

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If there are no conditions at the site for the disposal of collected water into the ground, then storm water is redirected to social system or an off-site drainage ditch

If the conditions and size of the site allow, the collected rainwater is disposed of through an absorption well. When constructing a well in sandy loam soils, the walls are assembled from perforated rings to increase the outflow rate

An almost free, but quite suitable option for discharging rainwater is a filter well made from old tires

We fill the bottom of the trench with moving concrete to the depth of the tray so that the tray shelves are flush with the surface. We give the bottom of the trench a slope of 2 - 3 cm per 1 m. The slope should be directed towards the collector well

Having beaten off the storm sewer lines with twine stretched between the pegs, we assemble a system of trays with a protective and decorative grille. We level the channels according to the design slope until the concrete begins to harden

We install sand traps in the places indicated in the project and connect them to the channels laid in the trenches

We construct formwork from boards along the side of the trench and pour concrete mortar between it and the tray laid in the trench

While filling the free space in the formwork with concrete, we level the poured mass. At the same time, we check the slope and, if necessary, adjust the position of the trays

We expect the solution to harden for at least 14 days, it is better to wait 28 days. At this time, it should be covered with polyethylene and periodically sprayed with water.

Any a private house constantly exposed to precipitation. If, in addition, the soil on the site contains admixtures of clay, then the constantly soggy soil and puddles in the yard will in no way add aesthetics to your home. Storm drainage in a private house can cope with the problem of draining rainwater. It is quite possible to build it yourself, at the beginning of building a house. Or lay it purposefully, near an already built house, if such work was not carried out at the time.

The main purpose of a storm drain in a private house is the collection and subsequent removal of melt and rainwater from the house and from the site to special drainage devices, into reservoirs, into a deep drainage system, off site or into the general sewer system. In addition to collection, a properly installed storm drain in a private house with your own hands is capable of purifying the water that gets into it from impurities and sand. The water leaving the system is quite clean and does not pollute the surrounding areas.

As a device for surface drainage, a storm drain protects buildings standing on the site from movement and destruction. If the soil on the site is constantly wet, then the impact of multidirectional skewing vectors on the foundation will affect its strength. As a result, subsidence, tilting of the house, and the appearance of cracks on its walls are possible.

Main system components

The installation of a storm sewer in a private house requires the presence of the following elements:

• located on the surface or channels closed type located underground. Installed taking into account the slope towards the water collectors. Through them, water flows into reservoirs or is discharged directly outside the site.
• storm water inlets. They are designed to collect water flowing from the roofs of buildings. The most suitable places for their installation are under drainpipes. Storm water inlets are made of plastic or polymer concrete in the form of rectangular containers of various volumes and are equipped with a basket for collecting various debris that comes with water. From them, water passes through a system of canals into water reservoirs;
• door pallets;
• inspection wells. They are intended for preventive inspections and cleaning of channels and pipelines in case of clogging. As a rule, they are installed at the junctions of channels and at places where they intersect, since it is in these places that the risk of channel clogging is most likely;
• serve to collect solid particles in the water entering through the channels. Installed on surface storm drains;
• collector well designed for collecting and subsequently filtering water into the soil.

Types of storm drainage

Stormwater in a private house can be linear, point, or mixed. Each of these types differs in its design and purpose.

Linear (open type) sewerage

This system easy to make and quite effective. It is a network of surface metal, concrete or. Water enters these channels through drainpipes, heading into the general sewer system or special tanks. The gutters are covered with gratings on top, protecting them from debris and also performing decorative functions. Individual gutters are joined together using sealant to prevent water from penetrating between the joints.

Read also: and its characteristics.

Such a storm drain in a country house or in country house has a larger coverage; it collects water from paths, sidewalks, various areas, and not just from roofs.

Tip: When laying an open-type storm drain with your own hands, the slope of all gutters must be taken into account. Otherwise, despite the presence of surface channels, water will not flow through them, but will cover the entire area without having time to go into the catch basins.

Point (closed type) sewerage

If the choice fell on a point-type storm drainage scheme in a private house, then all water intake pipelines should be located underground. Water flowing through pipes from the roofs enters rainwater inlets covered with gratings, and from them into underground channels. They carry water to designated places or simply drain it outside the boundaries of the site.

Advice: Since laying underground communications presents design and construction difficulties, its arrangement should be carried out only at the design stages of the house itself. Later it will be almost impossible to do such work.

Mixed sewerage

This type of sewage system is used in cases where it is necessary to save on labor or financial costs. This system can include both open-type elements and components of a point sewage system.

Calculation of volume, depth and slope

If you want your house and site to be reliably protected from flooding, siltation and flows of dirty rainwater, you need to correctly calculate and install storm drainage into the project. The main calculation of storm drainage comes down to ensuring that all water entering the territory equipped with storm drains goes without residue to the places allocated for it and is regulated by SNiP 2.04.03-85.

Calculation of channel laying depth

If the cross-section of underground pipelines does not exceed 0.5 m, then they are buried to a level of 30 cm. With large channel diameters, the depth of storm drainage in a private house increases up to 70 cm.

If the site has already been laid, then the storm drainage system in a private house is located above this system.

Advice: It is recommended to deepen all elements to the level of soil freezing, but in practice you can place them closer to the surface, providing them with insulation by backfilling with a layer of crushed stone and laying geotextiles. This will reduce the cost and labor intensity of excavation work.

Calculation of the volume of wastewater discharged from the site

To calculate the volume of wastewater, you must use the following formula: Q=q20 x F x ¥, where:

• Q is the volume that needs to be removed from the site;
• q20 is the amount of precipitation. This data can be obtained from the weather service or taken from the same SNiP 2.04.03-85;
• F is the area from which water will be drained. With a point system, a projection of the roof area onto a horizontal plane is taken. In case of equipment linear system all areas involved in drainage are taken into account;
• ¥ - coefficient taking into account the covering material with which the site is equipped or the house is covered:

— 0.4 — crushed stone or gravel;

— 0.85 — concrete;

— 0.95 — asphalt;

— 1 — roof.

Calculation of the required channel slope

A correctly selected slope guarantees the free flow of water through pipelines under the influence of physical laws. The required slope of the storm drain is determined depending on the diameter of the pipes used. If the pipes have a diameter of 20 cm, then a coefficient of 0.007 is taken into account. That is, 7 mm at linear meter pipes. With a diameter of 15 cm, the coefficient will be 0.008.

Channel slope in open system fluctuates between 0.003-0.005 (this is 3-5 mm). But the pipes connected to storm water inlets and storm wells must have a slope of 2 cm for each linear meter.

Stormwater installation

Before starting work, you must make sure that the house is equipped with water collection and drainage systems (downpipes, risers and gutters).

Rainwater sometimes turns out to be a very valuable natural resource to be scattered left and right. Therefore, modern storm drainage systems are becoming more and more complex, and are often equipped with special elements designed not only to minimize the negative consequences of rainfall, but also to effectively collect water.

Classic storm drainage device

The basis of storm sewerage is the system of direction and distribution of water. In a simplified version, storm drainage includes the following elements:

• Pipe. Most often it is laid in the ground and covered with a layer of turf, concrete or a hard surface of asphalt and paving slabs;
• Drainage channels or trays. The most important element of storm drainage, from correct location the water collector depends on the effective removal of water from the surface of the walkway or area at the front door;
• Filtering and distribution elements. Their participation in the operation of storm drains is invisible, and most people do not even suspect their existence, but they are vital for the normal operation of the entire system.

Important! Storm drainage not only and not so much helps to effectively drain water, but above all, it protects the soil and foundation from oversaturation with water.

Basic elements of storm drainage

All elements of storm drainage are equally important for the effective removal of water from the surface of the site. Failure or abnormal operation of any of the above elements can reduce the throughput of the sewer system to a minimum.

Device for receiving storm water flows

Stormwater inlets or, more correctly, water inlets and trays for storm drainage, gutters that serve to collect water flows on the surface of the earth, are the most vulnerable to mechanical impact from feet, wheels, Vehicle, even icicles and freezing ice. Water receivers are most often made in the form of a rectangular or cylindrical box made of plastic or fiberglass reinforcement.

They are installed directly below the drainage hole of the downspout and serve to receive the flow of rainwater collected by the gutter system. The inlet opening is always covered with a metal or fiberglass grill. There is a hole in the side wall where the drain pipeline is connected. Some water intake designs provide additional element for filtering large parts garbage, tree branches, wood chips, small pebbles. This element does not retain sand and small particles of dirt well. Often even experts are confused and believe that this is a sand trap for storm drainage.

Storm water inlets for storm sewers must ensure shock-free intake of water flows without splashing, even if part of the receiving device is covered with leaves or pieces of ice. The condition of part of the foundation and wall of the house depends on the efficiency of this element of the storm drainage system.

In addition to water intakes, rainwater drainage trays, or gutters, collect water. Most often they are installed along paved walkways. Paved areas and paths are especially sensitive to excess water. paving slabs. Incorrect or ineffective work leads to swelling of the masonry due to frozen water in the sand cushion.

Storm drainage trays are long plastic gutters laid directly on a sand cushion in the ground and covered on top with a protective cover with holes. Required condition When laying trays, it is necessary to maintain a drain slope in the direction of the receiving pipe. In some cases, storm drainage gutters stop working effectively if people step on the installed gutters or vehicles run over them. To avoid this, a stone or tile border is laid on the sides of the tray.

The cover can be plastic or lattice, but the latter option is used less frequently due to its poor ability to trap large debris and dirt entering the sewer system.

In addition to tray systems, point-type inlets are also used in rainwater collection systems. These elements are designed to collect rainwater in a certain area where it is impossible to install gutters or trays. Most often, this is a concreted area, on the surface of which there are slopes and a grid of profiled grooves for water drainage.

A separate element in rainwater collection systems is a receiving box or tray installed directly in front of the front door to the house. Such a device is used to catch rain and storm water that enters the entrance area of ​​the porch. The design of the pan corresponds to the structure of the rain inlet, but differs in size.

Prefabricated, distribution and filter elements

All drainage elements of rainwater collection systems direct flows through pipes to places where it is collected, settled, filtered and, if necessary, discharged into the central storm drain. The use of polyvinyl chloride or polypropylene corrugated pipes is considered standard today. The diameter of the pipeline, depending on the load, can range from 100 to 200 mm. This version of the pipe is highly flexible, resistant to frost, clogging, and can easily withstand any subsidence or soil movement without destruction.

In addition to polymer pipes, asbestos-cement pipes are used. They are highly resistant, but their use is currently limited due to the presence of asbestos fibers in their material. Cast iron, steel, ceramic pipes are practically not used due to the high price.

A mandatory element of modern rainwater collection systems is a sand trap, which frees water from the smallest particles of sand, dust and dirt. Essentially, this design is a large container in which rainwater settles and is separated into sediment and clean water. The design provides the ability to remove sediment and contaminants. Less commonly used are vortex sand traps, in which grains of sand and tiny gravel are separated from the storm flow as they pass through an annular chamber.

In some cases, in addition to the sand trap, a filter can be installed to separate petroleum products, oils, heavy organic matter, insoluble in water. Typically, such elements are a mandatory attribute of storm drains at gas stations, parking lots, auto repair shops, and are used quite rarely for domestic purposes.

The most expensive and largest element of rainwater collection systems is the distribution well. This device is a barrel-shaped container to which pipelines from water collection devices in a certain area are connected. Depending on the size of the plot, 2-3 distribution wells can be installed in one household. This element is buried in the ground so that the water column in the container is at a level lower than the pipelines connected to it. In this case, the collected water will not flow from the well back into the storm drain.

In some regions there are showers, in others - snowy winters. In such situations, it often becomes necessary to install an entire system for draining rain and melt water. This question is relevant for both settlements at different levels and for private households.

When we are talking about such an important structure as storm sewer, SNiP, GOST and the like regulations very important. After all, only properly constructed storm system drainage will work properly and for a really long time.

This is a utility network whose purpose is to collect excess moisture from a certain area and then drain it away. Requirements for the construction of storm sewers (storm drains) are established by SNiP 2.04.03-85.

It is this document that must be followed at all stages: during preliminary calculations, design and construction itself. It is important to note that SNiP 2.04.03 - this is the spelling that is sometimes found - does not actually exist, this is an incorrect spelling of the norms, the number of which is indicated above.

Sometimes the question arises about the need to comply with SNiP: is the sewerage system small areas cannot be built without complex calculations and design, “by eye”?

No, because non-compliance certain rules often results in disruption of the entire system, problems due to stagnation of water, as well as losses. Hence the conclusion: if a site really needs storm sewerage, SNiP is a mandatory document.

What are storm drains like?

The execution of storm drainage according to the type of system can be point or linear. In the first case, everything is relatively simple. Point storm drainage is a number of storm water inlets that are installed under the drainpipes of buildings and then connected into a drainage system. One of the main elements of such a storm drain is special sand catchers and protective grilles.

The linear type of storm drainage is much more complex in its organization. Here we are talking about drainage of wastewater not only from buildings, but also from the adjacent land plot. A network of channels is added to the storm water inlets (it is arranged using drainage trays or pipes), as well as the main collector. Door trays may also be required - the same rain inlets, only used in front of gates, wickets and doors.

Construction of storm drainage systems over large areas land plots also assumes the presence of inspection wells. With their help, you can check how the entire system works and carry out preventive cleaning of storm drains.

When installing a linear type storm drain, you have to take into account the mass important points. Here are just some of the parameters taken into account by SNiP:

• pipe type,
• burial depth plus much more.

Depending on the type of location relative to the surface of the earth, storm drainage can be external or internal.

External storm drainage

The most common example is the installation of drains along paths. A system of this type involves the installation of special drainage trays covered with gratings.

External storm drainage often serves aesthetic purposes, since the external elements of the system can be decorative. The undoubted advantage of an external system for drainage of storm and melt water is the relative simplicity of the device, as well as ease of use: easy washing in case of blockages and contamination, replacement of damaged elements if necessary.

Internal storm drainage

Such a system is much more complicated, as it involves serious calculations. Internal storm sewerage involves a significant amount of work on digging and equipping trenches in the ground, laying pipes, and installing inspection wells. At the same time, internal storm drainage, when properly equipped, copes well with any volume of waste and melt water.

Where does design begin?

Storm sewer calculation – the most important part. SNiP for sewerage contains the necessary formulas, as well as a number of values ​​that will be required for substitution. To start the calculation, you need the following information:

1. How much precipitation does the area receive on average?
2. What is the drainage area? This value consists of the areas of all roofs and other waterproof surfaces (concrete-filled paths, canopies).
3. What type of soil is on the site?
4. Where are underground communications located (if any).

All the data has been collected - it’s time to calculate the theoretical volume of water according to SNiPs. It is important not to forget about the correction factors and calculated values ​​of precipitation, which are collected in a special table in the rules.

Installation of a storm drain is impossible without these preliminary calculations. Storm sewerage, the calculation of which is incorrect, is unlikely to completely solve the problem of drainage. The essence of the error is not particularly important: an incorrectly selected storm pipe, inclination angle or collector volume.

An error on the downside usually results in overloading the entire system during significant rainfall and/or snowmelt. If you oversupply materials, installing storm drains can become a very expensive undertaking.

A complete design of a storm drainage system must take into account not only SNiP for sewerage. Storm drainage involves following GOST 21.604-82, which is dedicated to external water supply and sewerage networks.

The document contains a list of sections that must be included in a full-fledged project.

At what depth should the pipes be laid?

Here, a lot depends on the diameter of the pipes, the climate, and the type of soil. As a guide, let’s take the average values: in middle lane pipes with a diameter of 50 cm or less can be laid to a depth of 0.3 meters. This depth of storm drainage is considered sufficient. At larger diameter The pipes should be large and the depth should be 0.7 meters.

If the storm sewer pipes are not deep enough, during frosts it is possible that ice jams may form inside and even pipeline ruptures. Repairing such damage is time-consuming and often expensive.

Why is it so important to maintain slope?

Everything is simple here: if the storm sewer pipes are laid at the right angle, wastewater“will go” to the collector by gravity. If the slope is insufficient, stagnation of water forms in the pipes/trays, which can turn into ice in cold weather. If you make the slope too large, this can lead to rapid siltation of the pipeline.

Calculate minimum slope recommended according to SNiP. There are situations where it is impossible to lay pipes at the proper angle (usually in rocky or frozen soils). In this case, the design must take into account the use of special drainage pumps.

Storm drain to sewer

This is one of the frequently asked questions. Experience shows that private homeowners sometimes have thoughts of combining their house sewer system with a storm sewer system. Typically, such ideas are related to the fact that in both types of systems we are talking about wastewater disposal.

It is strongly not recommended to implement such ideas. Stormwater discharged into the sewer system can seriously hamper the operation of the liquid waste disposal system. Storm sewers are characterized by sharp increases in the filling of pipes.

During heavy rainfalls or massive snow melting, the sewage pipeline may simply not have enough capacity. Due to the reasons stated above, stormwater drainage into the sewer system becomes simply an unacceptable option for draining rain and snowmelt runoff.

What is a storm drain protection zone?

This concept is confusing to many. But the establishment of a storm sewer security zone is a direct requirement of SNiP. We are talking about the distance in both directions from the location of any element of the drainage system (or from its projection onto the surface of the earth, if the system is buried). This distance is five meters. It is not allowed in the specified zone.

To ensure that there is no flood on the site after each rain, so that the foundation does not get wet and collapse, it is necessary to ensure the removal of precipitation. This requires rainwater drainage. We can see it in cities - it is a system of water receiving devices and canals. Storm drainage in a private house is smaller in size, but its essence is the same. This is not to say that it is easy to do, but you can do it yourself, especially if you have already done something on the site with your own hands.

What is a storm drainage system for a private house and what types does it have?

In regions with big amount precipitation, rain and melt water must be drained somewhere. If this is not done, the paths gradually collapse, the soil in the yard becomes soggy, and then dries out for a long time. If you do not make a blind area around the house, rainwater will wash away and gradually destroy the foundation. In general, storm drainage in a private house is the key to the longevity of your home, order and neatness. appearance on your site. This kind engineering systems also called storm drainage or rainwater drainage.

The composition of the system is as follows:

Where to put the water

Most of the questions arise about what to do with the rapidly arriving sediments. Firstly, storm drainage in a private house can become a supplier of water for irrigation. To do this, all the pipes of the system are brought into a large container or several containers, and from there, using a pump, they can be pumped into the irrigation system.

Secondly, if there is nothing to water or nowhere to put such a volume of liquid, you can drain stormwater into a centralized sewer system, a drainage ditch, or a body of water located nearby. If these possibilities cannot be realized, a system for discharging water into the ground is installed. These are perforated plastic pipes, buried below ground level.

Types and their features

Storm sewerage in a private house can be of three types:

In each specific case you have to design your own circuit - there is no single recipe. Each has its own site with its own characteristics: the absorbency of the soil, the topography, the building, the layout.

What exactly needs to be done is to divert the water away from the house. This can be done as in the photo above - by installing gutters in the path and draining the water onto the lawn. But this is only one of many options. The second place where it is advisable to drain water is a large paved area. As a rule, large puddles form here, which are difficult to deal with. You can solve the problem by making one or more water collection points - installing point rainwater inlets and draining the water according to one of the recipes.

Combined or separate

Often in a private house it is necessary to install three drainage systems at once:

• drainage;
• storm

They often run parallel or are located close to each other. Naturally, there is a desire to save money and combine stormwater with some other one. In particular, use an existing well. I must say right away that it is better not to do this. Why? During a rainstorm, water comes at a very high speed. On average - from 10 cubic meters per hour (maybe more). At this rate of water flow, the well fills up very quickly. Sometimes it gets full.

If the reset goes to sewer well, water begins to flow into the sewer pipes. It won’t rise above the ground level, but you won’t be able to lower anything either - everything will be stuck in the plumbing. After the water level drops, debris remains inside. It interferes with the normal operation of the sewer system, so you have to clean it. Not the most pleasant experience.

Simultaneous installation of all systems on the site - the main thing is not to get confused

If the discharge goes into a drainage well, the situation is even worse. During a rainstorm, water enters the system under high pressure. It fills the pipes, then pours out under the foundation, washing it away. You can imagine the consequences. There are still things that are not so obvious. For example, silting of drainage pipes. It is impossible to clean them; you have to replace them. And this is a lot of expense and a lot of work.

So from all that has been said, we can draw a conclusion. First, storm drainage in a private house must have its own well. Second - it is desirable that it be large. This is if you are unlucky to have a pond, lake or river nearby.

Components of storm drains and their types

All elements of storm drainage in a private house must be connected into a system. Here's what it might consist of:

• Well. It must be large in volume. How big depends on the amount of rainfall, the size of the roof and the area from which the water is collected. Most often it is made from concrete rings. It differs from the water one only by the need to make a bottom. To do this, you can put a ring with a bottom down (there are factory ones), or you can fill the slab yourself. Another option - plastic wells for rainwater drainage. They are buried to the required depth, anchored (chained) to poured concrete platforms so that they do not “float up”. The good thing about this solution is that there is no need to worry about the tightness of the seams - such vessels are completely sealed.

  

• Hatch over the storm well. It is best to take a ring and a separate hatch (plastic, rubber or metal - your choice). In this case, you can dig in the rings so that the upper edge of the installed lid is 15-20 cm below the ground level. To install the hatch, you will have to lay out a brick or fill the neck with concrete, but the lawn planted on top will feel good and will not differ in color from the rest of the planting. If you take a ready-made cover with a hatch, you can add only 4-5 cm of soil. On such a layer of soil, the lawn will differ in both color and thickness, paying attention to what is underneath it.

  

• Point storm water inlets. These are relatively small containers that are installed in places where precipitation accumulates. They are placed under drainpipes, at the lowest points of the site. Stormwater inlet bodies can be plastic or concrete. Concrete is used when constructing deep storm drains. They are placed one on one, achieving the required height. Although today there are already built-on plastic storm water inlets.

  

• Linear storm water inlets or drainage channels. These are plastic or concrete gutters. These devices are installed in areas of the highest rainfall - along roof overhangs, if a drainage system is not installed, along pedestrian paths. Can be installed under gutters as gutters. This option is good if no pipes have been installed to drain the water. In this case, the receivers are placed outside the blind area, and the second end of the tray is connected to it. This is a way to make a storm drain without destroying the blind area.

  

• Sand traps. Special devices in which sand is deposited. They usually install plastic cases - they are inexpensive but reliable. They are installed at some distance from each other on long sections of the pipeline. Sand and other heavy inclusions are deposited in them. These devices need to be cleaned periodically, but this is much more convenient than cleaning the entire system.

  

• Lattices. In order for water to drain away better, the holes in the grate should be large. They are:
  
• Pipes. For storm drainage it is best to install polyethylene pipes for outdoor use (red color). Their smooth walls do not allow sediment to accumulate, and they also have greater conductivity than pipes of the same diameter made of other materials. Cast iron and asbestos pipes are also used. A little about the diameter of stormwater pipes. It depends on the amount of precipitation and the branching of the system. But the minimum diameter is 150 mm, and better yet, more. The pipes are laid with a slope of at least 3% (3 cm per meter) towards the storm water inlets, and then towards the well.

  

• Inspection wells. These are small plastic or concrete wells that are placed along a long section of the pipeline, in places where the system branches. Pipes are cleaned through them, if necessary.

  

  On extended sections, inspection points are needed to clear possible blockages in pipes

The storm sewer system in a private house does not always contain all these devices, but from them you can build a system of any configuration and complexity.

Construction order

In general, first you need to create a project. If there is no opportunity or desire to use the services of professionals, draw it to scale (on a piece of paper or in one of the programs). This way you can decide quite accurately what you need and how much. Having purchased necessary materials you can start working.

First, a drainage system is installed. Then the installation of storm drainage begins. It makes sense to carry out this work simultaneously with laying drainage and sewer systems, as well as carry out preparation work for laying paths and blind areas. All of these jobs require soil removal, so why not do it all at once?

Installing a rainwater inlet - fill it with concrete and “weight it down” with something heavy so that it doesn’t squeeze out

If other systems are already ready or they are simply not needed, you can dig trenches. They should be 10-15 cm greater than the required depth. Crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the trenches, and pipes are laid in it and devices are installed. Crushed stone will neutralize heaving forces: it always remains mobile, so that under load it simply moves from place to place. As you know, the devices installed in it hardly feel the load.

When installing rainwater inlets, they are concreted. They put formwork around it and fill it with a 15-20 cm layer of concrete. It needs to be calculated so that it fits normally. finishing coat which you are going to lay.