Fastening a horizontal lintel from a profile for plasterboard. Drywall training

In this article we will have to figure out what profile to make a plasterboard partition from and how to assemble it correctly. In addition, we will get acquainted with putty technology plasterboard walls. Let's get started.

Installation of a plasterboard partition frame.

What is offered by the market

First, let's find out what we actually have to choose from. On sale we can find the following profiles:

• Ceiling (60x27 mm);
• Ceiling guide (28x27);
• Rack-mounted ( side walls height 50 mm, bottom - width from 50 to 100 mm depending on the requirements for structural rigidity);
• Guide (40x50-100 mm);
• Flexible arched;

Arch frame made of flexible profile.

By elimination

The last two can be immediately discarded: the first of them is intended for assembling curved frames, the second - for strengthening plaster corners.

Reinforcement of the outer corner with a perforated corner profile.

The ceiling and ceiling guide are quite predictably used for assembling suspended ceiling sheathing. With the same success, however, they can be used to level main walls with significant irregularities; in this case, the ceiling profile is attached to it using direct hangers.

Lathing for leveling the wall from the ceiling profile.

Are these profiles suitable for partitions?

No. They are sorely lacking in rigidity: a wall assembled on a frame from a CD ceiling or UD ceiling guide will deform even with a slight lateral load.

What's in the bottom line?

That's right, there are only two varieties:

Rack profile. Curved edges ensure maximum rigidity with minimum weight.

Guide profile 50 mm wide.

The first, as the name suggests, is used as vertical frame posts, the second provides fastening of the posts to the permanent structures of the building - adjacent walls, ceiling and floor.

Thickness and hardness

We found out which profiles are needed to assemble the frame. But they have different thickness. Hence the next question: what width should the bottom wall have?

There are three factors at play here:

• The requirements for rigidity that I have already mentioned. In high traffic areas ( public buildings, hallways, kitchens) it is better to use a profile with a width of 75 or even 100 mm, and when building walls that do not experience serious loads during operation, 50 mm is quite enough;

When strength is needed: frame thickness is 100 mm.

• The need to place communications in the partition - water supply, ventilation ducts and sewerage. For a sewer pipe with a nominal cross-section of 50 mm, a frame with a thickness of at least 75 mm is required;

Water supply and sewerage are routed inside the partition frame.

• Lastly, noise insulation requirements are no less important.

A children's room has special requirements for sound insulation.

Loopholes

What to do if for some reason (for example, due to layout features or lack of usable space) you do not want to use a plasterboard profile for a partition more than 50 mm wide?

For obvious reasons, nothing can be done about sound insulation: thin wall will always conduct sound better than a thick one. Communications of a significant cross-section will also not fit into a narrow frame, but the rigidity and strength of the wall can be increased without significantly increasing its thickness.

• A 50x50 rack profile can be reinforced with wooden inserts. A block of the same cross-section is inserted into the racks and greatly increases their ability to withstand horizontal loads;

The racks are reinforced with bars embedded in them.

• The same effect can be achieved by folding the rack profile for plasterboard for partitions in pairs. You can nest the racks inside each other or simply install them side by side, sewing them together with metal screws or leaving a gap between them. The rigidity of the structure will increase in all cases;

The opening is reinforced with an additional rack.

• You can make the frame more rigid by reducing the pitch between the posts. Standardly it is equal to 60 centimeters, but can be reduced to 40 or even 30 cm. The main thing is that the width of the drywall sheet remains a multiple of this step, and that the seam between the sheets falls exactly in the middle of the rack;
• Finally, the strength of the wall will increase if it is sheathed with gypsum board in two layers on each side.

Two-layer sheathing is always performed with overlapping seams between the sheets.

Project "wall"

Calculation

We found out what profile is needed for a plasterboard partition, but we still don’t know how much of it we need to buy.

The instructions for calculating the number of profiles are extremely simple:

• The total length of the guide profile must be equal to the perimeter of the partition without any allowance for cutting. The guides can be connected along the length without any restrictions;
• The height of the racks must be no less than the height of the room (it can be 3 or 4 meters);

In theory, the length of the racks can reach 6 meters. In practice, I have never seen a PS profile longer than 4.

• The number of racks is calculated based on the length of the partition and the step between them, rounded up to the nearest whole value. For a wall 4 meters long, for example, it is equal to 400/60-1=6.

The standard pitch between frame posts is 0.6 meters.

The task will become somewhat more complicated if the wall is supposed to have a doorway, shelves or skylights. Any opening is tied with a rack profile vertically and a rack or guide profile horizontally.

Stage 1: marking

What and how to mark before starting frame construction?

We need to draw the axis line of the frame on the floor, ceiling and adjacent walls, and then mark the position of the racks. For this you will need:

• One of the profiles prepared for assembly of the frame to act as a ruler;
• Plumb;

The photo shows a construction plumb line.

I do the markup in the following order:

• I draw a line on the floor;
• Using a plumb line I transfer it to the ceiling point by point;
• I close the contour with lines on the walls connecting the markings at the top and bottom;
• I mark the position of the racks on the floor;
• I transfer them with a plumb line to the ceiling.

Using a plumb line, the position of the racks is transferred to the ceiling.

Marking the position of the racks must be done so as to remain visible after covering the frame. The marks will help you find the studs when attaching the gypsum boards.

Stage 2: frame assembly

How to build a partition frame with your own hands?

As easy as pie:

• Secure the guides to the floor, ceiling and walls with dowel screws in increments of about half a meter;

IN wooden house To fasten the guides, you can use ordinary self-tapping screws with a length of 45 mm.

• Cut to length and mark all the posts;

You need to cut the profile with metal scissors. Abrasive cutting with a grinder is undesirable: in this case, zinc burns out in the cut area, leaving the steel defenseless against rust.

• Screw each post to the guide on both sides with metal screws 9 mm long.

To assemble the frame you will need a screwdriver. It is almost impossible to screw a self-tapping screw into a steel profile with a screwdriver.

When installing a door or window block into a partition, its installation is carried out at the frame assembly stage. The block is placed close to the vertical post and secured to it with self-tapping screws screwed in from the profile side. Additional fixation can be provided with a strip of foam or sealant.

Then, on the opposite side, a second rack is attached in the same way, after which the racks are connected to each other by a horizontal jumper. Don't forget to wedge the door leaf in the frame with wood chips or plywood scraps.

Harness door block profile.

A special case

If you need to ensure the highest quality of sound insulation, the frame is assembled differently:

• The guides are attached in two rows with a minimum gap between them;
• The racks in two rows are installed so that they do not touch each other anywhere.

Why is such a complex and relatively expensive scheme needed? The fact is that two independent frames make it possible to perform acoustic decoupling of the sides of the partition, completely eliminating the transmission of acoustic vibrations from one side to the other.

Sound insulation is complemented by a couple more measures:

• A porous damper tape is laid under the guide profile;
• The partition is filled with noise-absorbing material (usually glued mineral wool slabs 600 mm wide).

Construction of a noise-insulating partition: 1, 5-GKL, 2 - guides; 3- racks; 4 - self-tapping screws for drywall, 6 - dowel screws, 7 - floor, 8 - mineral wool.

Stage 3: sheathing and puttying

GKL is attached to all profiles (both rack and guide) in increments of no more than 20 centimeters. Fasteners - phosphated gypsum board screws, tool - screwdriver.

For wet rooms (bathtubs, toilets, combined bathrooms) use moisture resistant drywall. It is easy to recognize by its green front side leaf.

The cap is sunk approximately 1 mm below the surface of the sheet, and the attachment points should not be closer than 2 cm from the edge. The price of non-compliance with this simple rule is crumbled edges of the sheet.

Puttying is performed in two steps:

• First, the seam is filled through the cells of the serpyanka glued along it - a fiberglass-based reinforcing material;
• The reinforcement is then covered with a second pass using a wide spatula.

Partition after puttying the seams and fasteners.

Before painting and wallpapering, the wall is sanded sequentially ( hand grater or a grinder) and primed with penetrating primer.

Conclusion

From the article you learned that installing gypsum plasterboard partitions does not present any difficulties even for a beginner. The video in this article will help you learn more. I look forward to your additions and comments. Good luck, comrades!

obustroeno.com

Choosing the right profile for plasterboard partitions

Today we will try to give you the most practical advice so that the profile for the gypsum plasterboard partition that you build with your own hands is reliable and durable, and the structure can last a long time.

Which profile should I use?

In order to determine which profiles are needed to build a partition with your own hands, first of all, you need to navigate their types, only then will you be able to choose the right one. As practice shows, it all comes down to one thing: a gypsum plasterboard partition is built using two types of profiles - guide and rack. However, there are partition structures that include elements of non-standard shape (rounded projections, niches, doorways or columns).

In order to fully control the situation when constructing any structure and be able to independently assemble any plasterboard partition with your own hands, it is worth learning in more detail about the types of profiles.

Guide profile

It is marked ud. The main purpose of this type is to create a plane for the future surface. The guide profile is installed strictly along the perimeter future design and serves as the basis for the formation of the frame.

Standard guide profile dimensions:

• Length – 3000 mm;
• Width – 25 mm.

The thickness of the metal from which the guide profile is made is the main criterion for the reliability of the future frame.

The thicker the steel, the more possibilities the profile has.

A guide profile marked uw is used to set the direction of the future plane. The dimensions of the variety are standard for a guide profile.

Support profile

Type marking – cd. It is used for the final formation of the partition frame and assumes the main load: when covering the frame with the material, it is on it that the gypsum board slabs are attached.

Standard dimensions of the supporting profile:

• Length – 3000 or 4000 mm;
• Width – 60 mm;
• Thickness – 25 mm.

The thinner the metal of the supporting profile, the more it will be needed for the frame of the future partition.

Arched profile

When constructing structures with rounded elements, a beginner home handyman It's hard to do without it. It is the arched profile that helps give the structure curly bends. Due to the many cuts, this type of profile is somewhat weaker than other varieties.

Standard dimensions of the arched profile:

• Length – 3000 mm;
• Width – 60 mm.

Having experience in assembling plasterboard structures, you can make an arched profile with your own hands.

Rack profile

Marked cw, it is used to strengthen and strengthen the frame of the structure being built. Attached in 400 mm increments.

Unlike profiles intended for covering ceilings, walls and other planes, profiles for creating partitions with your own hands have little big sizes and, accordingly, a different purpose. They are produced in a different range of overall dimensions, which were indicated above, and their choice is determined by the requirements for the future design (protection from extraneous noise, thermal insulation, the possibility of laying communications, etc.).

As a rule, for assembling most of the simplest plasterboard structures (partitions, walls and ceilings), two types of profiles are sufficient - cd and ud. But, as practice shows, an arched profile is also necessary.

How to choose

Here the task is a little more complicated, since there are now a lot of different profiles and markings on the market. Choosing quality becomes an even more difficult task. We will try to help you determine exactly a strong and reliable profile, from a good manufacturer and made of appropriate materials.

To build a plasterboard partition with your own hands, it is important to choose the right load-bearing elements for the future structure.

Profile coating

So, we will start with the profile coating, which is made from zinc. It directly affects all profile indicators. In a quality product, the zinc content is above 99%, but now you can often find a profile with a zinc content of no more than 30%. This means that such material is not suitable for construction, since it is poorly protected. In addition to the fact that the profile easily succumbs to corrosion and rust, it can also collapse after some time, and the entire structure based on it will simply collapse. Using such a profile in damp rooms is even more dangerous. We recommend that you refrain from purchasing it altogether.

Read also: Installation of plasterboard partitions on your own

Next, about the next trick of manufacturers and sellers, which it is advisable to avoid - a painted profile. There is no need to buy such a profile, no matter how they assure you that the paint is applied to the base of the material for additional protection. In most cases, this is done only to hide the manufacturing defect. Believe me this painting the profile doesn’t mean anything anymore, especially since most paint crumbles easily during installation.

Material thickness

Pay attention to the thickness of the profile, which should be at least 0.5 mm. This thickness will provide good strength, but only for a simple design. If you need a more complex frame, you should think about this indicator.

Perforation of metal profile

Perforated knurling is another step towards lower quality. It is by this method that many manufacturers try to hide the real thickness of the profile and save a lot on material. When we purchase such a profile, we don’t even think about it, and we don’t buy what we need at all.

Read also: Design options for plasterboard partitions

Criterias of choice

There are so many shortcomings around that it is very alarming, so the question arises: how to determine a high-quality profile for a plasterboard partition?

Squeeze the profile with your hand, tightly, without sparing. Nothing will happen to a good profile from such pressure. A low-quality profile will immediately feel flimsy in your hand. By the way, the stiffer the profile when compressed by hand, the better quality it is, and the longer the plasterboard structure based on it will last.

Strength and, accordingly, durability are provided by the profile and ribs. If they are quite pronounced and are located along the entire length of the product, then such a profile is highly durable and can easily withstand the heavy weight of even a massive partition.

You can also find out how high-quality the coating is on the profile. A good product will shine in the sun, but a product of lesser quality will appear cloudy and uneven. We advise you to refrain from purchasing such a profile.

Installing a profile for drywall with your own hands (video)

Attention, TODAY only!

tvoyprorab.com

Profile for plasterboard partitions

• 1 Nomenclature profile systems
  • 1.1 Main elements of the sheathing
  • 1.2 Additional items battens
• 2 Introduction of iron parts for installing the partition
  • 2.1 Tools for profile processing
  • 2.2 Assembling the base of the plasterboard false wall

In modern design, a fairly popular element are false walls covered with gypsum board. To construct the frame of such walls, i.e. For vertical posts and sheathing, a special profile for plasterboard partitions is used for sheathing.

The choice of a suitable profile is very important, which is why our article is completely devoted to the technology of working with this element of plasterboard structures.

Range of profile systems

The main elements of the lathing

The frame and lathing for partitions with gypsum plasterboard sheathing are installed from iron panels of a special shape. The raw material for the production of these parts is strips of zinc-coated steel, which are cold rolled into a specific configuration. Metal thickness and configuration itself frame panel depends on the type of product.

All profiles for plasterboard partitions are divided into main and additional. The main ones include:

Guides (PN) - are installed on the floor and ceiling of the room, in rare cases they are also installed on the walls. The main function of this part is to provide reliable connection partitions with load-bearing elements of the room, so you should not push the choice of a high-quality guide profile. (see also the article Noise insulation of plasterboard partitions - legends and reality)

More common PN sizes include:

• 50 x 40 mm.
• 65 x 40 mm.
• 75 x 40 mm.
• 100 x 40 mm.

It is produced in panels 3000 mm long, in most cases supplied with special mounting holes every 200 - 4000 mm.

Rack-mounted (PS) - installed in guides at an angle of 900, forming the so-called “rack-mount unit”. They ensure the vertical hardness of the partition and its resistance to deformation.

More popular sizes:

• 50 x 50 mm.
• 65 x 50 mm.
• 75 x 50 mm.
• 100 x 50 mm.

Both rack and guide elements can be made of metal of different thicknesses (from 0.38 to 0.45 mm). The larger the profile dimensions, the thicker the metal used, and the higher mechanical properties products.

Pay attention! Typically, in the lines of metal structures from the first manufacturer, rack profiles are produced 0.5-1 mm narrower than the corresponding guides.

This allows you to form a rack unit without deforming the guides.

Some models from this line are produced with special technological holes created for laying communications inside the partition (pictured). This is very convenient, since the introduction of such holes reduces the risk of damage to the insulating sheath of the cables. (see also the article Installation of plasterboard partitions - a development that changed our understanding)

Additional sheathing elements

In addition to the rack and guide parts, for the construction of a frame for a plasterboard partition, one cannot do without various additional parts.

These include:

• Ceiling profiles (PP). In most cases, these parts are used to form planes suspended ceilings, but when constructing interior gypsum partitions, PP is used to form arched parts of door openings, and also to connect vertical posts.
• Corner cost elements are perforated corners made of narrow zinc-coated metal. They are used for finishing joints of gypsum plaster boards under 900 in order to protect against damage during plastering, finishing and future use. In most cases, they are used to create door openings in partitions.

In addition to profiles as such, other iron elements may be required to produce partitions with your own hands. They can be made independently from iron strips or frame scraps, but it is best to obtain these parts from the same manufacturer as the profiles themselves. This way we can be sure that their geometry and mechanical properties match each other.

Such additional equipment includes:

• Plate hangers. They are used to fasten parts of frames to walls, and also to fix them to the ceiling. Partitions made from drywall profiles rarely require the use of hangers, but still, in a number of different cases, this universal part can be useful.
• Connectors. They are used when you need to join and firmly fasten two panels. Although the cost of such connectors is low, many craftsmen prefer to do without them, joining iron parts directly. But still, to increase the strength of the frame, it is better to use special components.

All these details allow you to make the base of the partition between rooms, while making it quite strong and reliable. Next we will tell you how to use a partition profile for drywall.

Introduction of iron parts for the installation of the partition

Profile Tools

One of the main advantages that virtually no matter what profile partition for plasterboard has is its manufacturability and ease of installation.

To work with metal panels we will need the following tools:

• A metal saw is the most successful tool for adjusting panels to the size that suits us. Circular saws with cutting blades or reciprocating models are ideal for this purpose.

Pay attention! The use of a grinder with a grinding disc is not necessary, since in the highest heating zone the element loses its anti-corrosion properties, and with high humidity in the room, the sheathing may begin to rust.

• Scissors for metal work. They are used in most cases for making cuts on the sides of a profile when forming a rack unit, and also when bending arched parts.
• A punch is a good candidate for a drill, since drilling into a rather narrow metal profile is quite awkward. Punchers are used to make holes in the walls of iron parts.

• Pliers (skrepprofile) - used to connect parts of the frame without the use of screws and other fasteners. According to the mechanism of operation, this tool is identical to a punch, but when punched, two parts are connected according to the principle of rivets.
• Drill or hammer drill. Used to secure frame parts to walls, ceilings and floors. In rooms with concrete foundations experts advise using drills and augers with pobedit tips.
• A screwdriver is a tool, working with which will take 80: of your time. It is used to connect all parts of the frame to each other using special screws (3.9 x 25 mm).

In addition, we will certainly need hand tool(hammers, screwdrivers, etc.), also a tape measure, measuring cord and level. (see also the article Plasterboard partition with door: installation features)

Assembling the base of a plasterboard false wall

So, we have the materials and tools ready, which means it’s time to get to work.

Here is an annotation describing the main steps in the process of constructing a false wall box:

• From the PN panels of the chosen width, using a metal saw, we cut off parts of a suitable length. With all this, do not forget that there will be a gap in the floor part of the frame in the area of ​​the doorway.

• Having laid the panels on the floor, using a hammer drill we make fastening holes in increments of 40-60 cm. We insert dowel sleeves into the holes, after which we fasten the panels to the floor, tightening the locking screws with a screwdriver.
• We perform the same operation with the ceiling part.
• We insert rack profiles, cut according to the height of the room, into the guides.
• We connect the rack units using screws (4 screws for each connection) or a fastener profile. The connection process is shown in detail in the video.
• We form the frame of the future wall from the rack parts by installing two panels on the sides of the doorway.
• In the upper part of the door we connect the side posts with a horizontal jumper (a smaller section of PS).

Advice! To make the door clearance more rigid, we install embedded wood beams in the vertical parts of the frame.

• Using the technological holes, we lay the wires, leaving free sections of the cable for connecting sockets and switches.

This completes all work with the iron profile for the false wall. All we have to do is cover the constructed frame with plasterboard, putty the joints between the panels and fastening points, after which we can begin the final finishing.

We hope that in this article you will find the answer to the questions of what profile is needed for a plasterboard partition, and how to assemble it from this profile reliable frame for a false wall. So if you carefully study all the tips, then you will definitely cope with the work of building a partition!

www.cel-remonta.ru

Profile for plasterboard partitions

During the process of renovation work, property owners often have the question of which profile to choose for a plasterboard partition. This factor is very important and requires attention. After all, the strength and durability of the entire structure directly depends on what the frame is like.

Let's start with the fact that anyone can build a simple structure from plasterboard, regardless of whether they have a construction education or not. What will it take?

First, arm yourself with the necessary tools. Secondly, buy the necessary materials. And thirdly, study the technology of installing the frame.

It doesn’t matter what you are doing - an arch, a suspended ceiling, leveling walls with plasterboard or something else, the basis of any structure will be a frame made of metal profiles. But today we will focus specifically on how partitions are made from profiles for plasterboard and which ones are suitable for this.

Types of profiles for creating a frame for a plasterboard partition

As a rule, all profiles for drywall are made of durable steel tape with a thickness of 0.55 to 0.8 mm and are long metal slats. They have quite a lot of positive properties, which makes them in demand in a variety of fields. Such profiles add rigidity to plasterboard structures without weighing them down.

It should be added that there are several types of profiles for drywall, and each of them has its own purpose. What profile is needed for a plasterboard partition? This is the question we will now answer.

Profile guides

The guide profile for partitions for plasterboard (abbreviated simply PN) has a channel shape (U-shaped) and is available in four sizes: PN-50 (50x40 mm), PN-65 (65x40 mm), PN-75 (75x45 mm) and PN -100 (100x40 mm). Here the first number indicates the width of the backrest, and the second – the width of the shelf (see the photo for more details).

In the back of any guide profile there are holes for dowels, the diameter of which is 8 mm. All profiles have the same length – 3 meters.

Note! Sometimes profile guides are designated by the abbreviation UW. For example, UW -50 is the same as PN-50.

As you already understood from the name, PNs serve as guides for the future partition (i.e., they are fixed to the floor and ceiling along pre-marked lines). Then rack profiles are attached to them, which we will talk about later.

Rack profiles

The rack partition profile for plasterboard (abbreviated simply PS) has a C-shape and is available in four sizes: PS-50 (50x50 mm), PS-65 (65x50), PS-75 (75x50), PS-100 (100x50). You probably noticed that the back width of the guides and rack profiles is the same, which goes without saying, because the PS will be inserted into the PN.

Rack profiles come in the following lengths: 3 meters, 3.5 meters and 4 meters (this variety is explained by their undesirable extension in the case of high ceilings).

Along the shelf, the rack profiles for plasterboard partitions have 3 special grooves: the middle groove serves as the junction of the plasterboard sheets, and the two outer ones are needed for centering the screws.

Note! Sometimes rack profiles are designated by the abbreviation CW. For example, CW -50 is the same as PS-50.

Jumpers

A partition made from a profile for plasterboard, or rather its frame, is strengthened with lintels. What are they needed for?

To create a more reliable and robust structure. Where can I get them? Jumpers can be easily made with your own hands.

There are several options for their manufacture and fastening, which we will now consider.

1. We make cuts along the edges of the guide profile at an angle of 45°. Then we bend the edges along the cuts. The advantage of such a jumper is that it fits on any side of the profile. But there is also a drawback - reduced strength.

1. Along the edges of the guide profile, we again make V-shaped cuts. Then, along the cuts, we bend the edges inward and fix them together. With such jumpers the structure will be stronger, but they can only be used on profiles assembled in a box (like this - see photo).

1. Combination of the first and second methods. That is, we cut one edge of the guide profile using the first method, and the second using the second. The big advantage of such a jumper is the ability to use it on profiles, regardless of their orientation relative to each other.

1. The jumper is assembled from pieces of guide and rack profiles. We cut 2 pieces from the PN, each 10 cm long. Then we insert them into the PS jumper. The advantage is the rational use of PN residues, as well as obtaining a strong structure thanks to the use of PS as jumpers. Well, the disadvantage is, perhaps, the price - additional use of PS will lead to increased financial costs.

Installation of a frame for a plasterboard partition

So, we figured out what profiles are needed to build a plasterboard partition. Now we can safely move on to the practical side of the issue.

How to build such a frame yourself? It must be said that this matter is quite simple, but it still requires some knowledge.

Making the markings

As a rule, the construction of any structure begins with markings. To mark the future partition, you need to use a tracing cord to mark the axis on the floor, having previously decided on the location of the doorways (if any).

Then, using a plumb line and the same cord, the axis is transferred to the walls and ceiling to which the partition will be connected. After marking, we proceed to the installation of the frame.

Making one large room into two smaller ones is one way to get additional space within one living space. The construction of a non-load-bearing partition consisting of metal frame, covered with sheets of plasterboard. Next we’ll talk about the necessary details for the construction of a partition sheathing and some features of assembling a frame for a structure dividing a room.

What you will need to install a gypsum plasterboard partition - from supporting posts to screws

When assembling frames for leveling walls and ceiling battens of various configurations and geometric complexity, two types of the most used and recognizable profiles are used - guide and load-bearing, denoted by the Latin abbreviation UD and CD, respectively. Sometimes these elements are used for partition structures, although this is not entirely true - these profiles are designed for additional fastening using direct hangers, giving the racks the necessary rigidity. If you install ceiling-type load-bearing profiles without additional rigid fixation, as is the case when installing a partition frame, these rack elements are not able to withstand horizontal mechanical load, which can lead to their deflection and other deformations.

What profile is used for plasterboard? For these purposes, manufacturers offer two types metal products– guide partition and rack profiles, designated in Latin letters UW and CW, respectively. What are their features? Firstly, they differ in size. The guide parts of the partition sheathing have shelves of 40 mm, with a back width of 50, 75 and 100 mm. The racks are made with the same gradation of back width with shelves of 50 mm, and the edges of the side surfaces have bends at the end, giving additional rigidity.

The second feature of partition load-bearing and guide elements is the thicker steel used in production. The maximum metal thickness of galvanized products for installing partitions is 1.2 mm, which ensures required strength these details. Sometimes CW profiles are produced with shaped perforations in the back of the product, which are needed for laying communications if they are provided inside a plasterboard partition.

In addition to the profiles, when assembling the partition frame, special small metal screws are useful, the purpose of which is to fasten the metal parts together. Due to their small size (9 mm), builders dubbed these screws “fleas” and this slang name stuck, so in any specialized store you can safely use this name for the smallest screws.

In addition to purchasing these materials, you should immediately think about purchasing a door frame and door leaf if the partition has a doorway. It is advisable that door frame The width corresponded to the thickness of the partition covered with plasterboard. With the width of the back of the profiles, for example, 75 mm, the width of the partition with gypsum plasterboard on both sides will be approximately 100 mm (with the standard for walls being 12.5 mm). It is also necessary to have an idea of ​​the thickness of the door frame and the dimensions of the door leaf in order to know where the side posts will be installed, forming the opening, and at what height the transverse strip will be located, limiting the partition clearance from above.

Taking into account the fact that assembling the frame of a wall partition and covering it with gypsum boards is a one-day task, immediately purchase drywall and self-tapping screws for attaching it to metal parts (phosphated with fine threads 35 mm long). If the structure will be installed in damp room, it is better to purchase moisture-resistant gypsum board, which is easily recognized by the green color of the front cardboard. The usual cladding sheet is gray in color. There is no difference in thickness between moisture-resistant and ordinary materials, but the strength of moisture-resistant material is higher, which immediately becomes noticeable even during transportation. Another factor confirming the advisability of purchasing moisture-resistant gypsum board is its resistance to fungal and bacterial damage and the absence of the need to prime the work surface before subsequent finishing or cladding.

We are preparing the necessary tools - we don’t use a screwdriver to tighten screws now

To ensure that the work of assembling the partition frame and covering it goes smoothly, you need a set necessary tools, which will always be at hand. The list of tools, without which it is impossible to carry out installation work, looks like this:

• scissors for cutting metal;
• hammer drill or hammer drill with a set of drills with a pobedit tip;
• screwdriver;
• plumb line;
• building level (bubble) no less than a meter long;
• painting thread (with paint);
• measuring tape.

Profile posts and guides require adjustment to length. Sometimes the structure is reinforced with crossbars, which are also cut from the profile, with the production of special fastening protrusions formed from the shelves and back of the part. To do this, you need to have high-quality scissors on hand that cut thin rolled metal. Some craftsmen use angle grinders (grinders) equipped with an abrasive attachment (wheel) for metal to cut metal frame elements. This is not entirely correct, since when cutting a profile with a grinder, the cut area becomes very hot, which leads to local destruction of the galvanized layer. The durability of such a part can be reduced significantly due to corrosion, to which the area deprived of the protective zinc coating is susceptible.

A hammer drill will be needed when installing guide profiles that are attached to walls, floors and ceilings(or to the finished ceiling). You cannot do without this power tool if at least one of the listed surfaces is concrete. A drill is ineffective when drilling holes for dowels in concrete, since its speed is too high and the impact force is weak. A drill can be used if you need to drill through a wall made of brick or even less durable material. If the ceilings or floors are wooden, the task of installing a guide profile on these surfaces is simplified. In this case, you won’t have to drill anything - just tighten the metal parts with phosphated (black) self-tapping screws 45-55 mm long.

It is impossible to assemble a structure made of metal parts without a screwdriver. Driving a self-tapping screw into a profile with a screwdriver is very problematic, and given the fact that there will be a lot of similar actions (fixing one sheet of drywall takes on average about 50 self-tapping screws plus fleas for connecting individual parts of the frame), you can’t do without a screwdriver. It can be replaced with a compact drill for small amounts of work, but only one that has a smooth acceleration function for the chuck.

A few words about. To twist fleas, use a regular oblong nozzle with a cross-shaped tip. You can also screw drywall with it if you have the skill. When there is no special skill in such work, it is better to use a bit with a limiter, which prevents the screw from being sunk deeper than it should be. This attachment significantly speeds up the work of fixing the gypsum board to the profile, making the work hassle-free.

When the screw fixing the drywall is correctly deepened, the head of the self-tapping screw should sink 1-2 mm into the face cardboard. With a deeper fit, the self-tapping screw does not perform a fastening function.

If you have a laser level at hand and an understanding of how to use it, you can use this tool to mark the perimeter of the future partition. When this device is not there, it doesn’t matter. An ordinary plumb line will help to form a vertical plane no worse than a level - no one has canceled gravity. To align the racks vertically, you can also use a plumb line, but usually, taking into account the accuracy of installation, this is done with help - it’s faster and more convenient.

Installation of the partition frame and covering it with plasterboard

Installation work begins with marking the perimeter of the future dividing structure. This procedure usually starts from the floor, where a guide line is cut for installing the guide profile. When marking a floor guide, it is important to check the squareness of the drawn line with the side walls. Then, using a plumb line, the edges of the line are transferred vertically to the ceiling, and a ceiling landmark is marked there. All that remains is to beat off the vertical lines on the walls with painting thread, connecting the edges of the ceiling and floor lines. Further installation of the frame occurs in the following sequence.

1. 1. Using dowels or screws, we mount the UW profile along the marked perimeter. The distance between the fasteners can be varied within 40-60 cm. If the partition is supposed to have a door or arched opening, we do not install a guide within its projection on the floor.
2. 2. Cut into required size(about half a centimeter less than the distance from the floor to the ceiling) CW profile, immediately insert it into the guides and set it according to the calculated step. The distance between the racks should be a multiple of the width of the gypsum board (120 cm). The closer we place the racks to each other, the stiffer the frame and stronger the structure.
3. 3. If an opening is supposed to be constructed, we install additional racks along its edges (regardless of the location of the remaining load-bearing elements), and we turn the profiles with the back inward (the door frame or the inner lining of the arch will be attached to them). On top of the opening we install a transverse jumper made of a UW profile, which we connect to the ceiling guide with a short stand located at the place where the plasterboard sheets are supposed to join.

This completes the assembly of the frame - you can begin sheathing metal structure GKL. To install drywall quickly and correctly, use the following tips in your work. By height plasterboard sheets cut out about a centimeter less than the absolute size. When installing ready-made gypsum board fragments, we place pads of about half a centimeter under them, which we remove after screwing the sheet. This way we form the upper and lower deformation gaps necessary to allow linear expansion of the material and the absence of direct contact with other building structures.

We fix the gypsum boards to the posts and guides with screw spacing of up to 25 cm. If the supporting profiles are set at 60 cm intervals, it will not be difficult to get into them with a screw - there is always a middle marking on the drywall. If a smaller step is used to increase the strength of the partition (maybe 40 or even 30 cm), it is advisable to make marks on the ceiling and floor corresponding to the location of the racks. This will make it easier to use screws to get into the intermediate profiles, and not into the “milk”.

For repair work, for finishing interior spaces Apartments, country houses, cottages or offices often use a material such as plasterboard. With its help, it is possible not only to hide significant uneven surfaces, but also to implement almost any ideas when decorating rooms: arches, complex ceiling systems, partitions, alcoves. In this article we will look at how to make the right frame for a drywall wall.

The advantage of plasterboard walls and ceilings

• The design of the frame for plasterboard from a profile allows you to mount an LED strip, built-in lamps in an orderly or chaotic manner, or hang a classic chandelier.

• The walls can be decorated with niches and quite in an original way illuminate them.
• The resulting interceiling space will accommodate ventilation pipes, the electrical wiring will be hidden, leaving room for insulation and soundproofing material.
• And if the height of the room allows you to install cassette type air conditioner, since the thickness of the indoor unit can be from 230 to 300 mm.

Symbols for drywall

When purchasing this building material, you may encounter the following acronyms (abbreviations):

• GKL- gray plasterboard sheet, thickness from 8 to 16 mm, width 1200 mm and length 2000-4000 mm. Typically used in rooms that do not have special requirements;
• GKLV- moisture-resistant sheet (cardboard is painted in green tones), which is distinguished by hydrophobic additives. Produced in the following dimensions: 18x600x2000 mm. Used in bathrooms or kitchens;
• GKLO- fire-resistant plasterboard has pink tint, has increased resistance to open fire. Its thickness can be from 10 to 16 mm, width - 1200 mm, and length - 2000-4000 mm. This type is relevant for rooms with a fireplace;
• GKLVO- plasterboard combining moisture and fire protection characteristics, thickness 12-16 mm, width 600 or 1200 mm, length 2000-4000 mm.

It should be noted here that 9.5 mm sheets are more often used for ceilings, and for finishing walls, slopes or creating partitions, niches - 12.5 mm, for making openings of patterned, arched shapes - 6.5 mm plasterboard.

It is not recommended to use a marker to place marks on drywall, because some types have the “amazing” property of appearing on the surface of the sheet even after several layers of putty and painting.

Symbols for metal profiles for drywall

• PS- U-shaped rack profile with longitudinal grooves. Its base is called the “back”, and the sides are called “shelves”, always equal to 50 mm. The backrest width ranges from 50 to 100 mm. It is used as vertical stands.
• Mon- guide profile, its cross-section is identical to the rack profile. The width of the “shelves” is only 40 mm, the “base” is 50-100 mm. Used in the construction of wall frames or partitions. It is fixed to the floor and ceiling, forming a frame for the main structure.
• PP- ceiling profile (60x27 mm) with 3 longitudinal grooves. It is to this that the installation of plasterboard sheets is carried out.
• PNP- ceiling guide profile (27x28 mm). When constructing a suspended structure, it is attached to the walls of the room, guiding the PP.
• PU- corner profile (85°) made of perforated metal, used to strengthen corners. It can be both internal and external, differing in purpose and parameters. At further work the holes are filled with putty material, thereby ensuring reliable adhesion to the drywall.
• PA- arched profile (concave or convex). With its help, not only arched doorways are designed, but also suspended structures of complex wave-like shapes are created.

If you plan to install a heavy picture, a chandelier with significant weight, or brackets for installing any device, it is recommended to strengthen the frame at these points at the construction stage.

Additional items

• Profiles can be from 2750 to 4000 mm long; if a larger length is required, then a kind of coupling(connector for PP 60x27 mm).
• Crab has a cross shape and is used at the intersection points of profiles, ensuring the strength of the frame. Two-tier crab fits onto the upper-level PP and reliably fixes the lower-level profile.

• Direct suspension mounted to the wall or ceiling, then folded along special lines. Profiles are inserted into the resulting U-shaped opening and then fixed. After installation, the excess “ears” are bent or cut off. If you use this fastener- the ceiling space will be no more than 60 mm.
• Using clamps and traction anchor suspension You can adjust the height of the interceiling space from 250 to 1000 mm. Its supporting part ensures a stable position of the PP.

Hardware

Hardware for fastening guides and hangers are selected depending on the surfaces, for example:

• if the walls and ceiling are made of concrete, then the profile or anchor suspensions are mounted with 6x40 or 6x60 mm dowels, depending on the quality of the surfaces.

• Fastening to wooden bases is made with screws 6x70, 6x80 mm.
• It is better to fix all the metal elements of the frame together, for example, direct hangers to ceiling profiles, rack-mounted to guides, couplings, crabs - with self-tapping screws with a sharp end of 3.5x11 mm.
• Drywall is mounted to metal profiles using self-tapping screws with fine threads made of galvanized steel 3.5x25 mm. There is no need to pre-drill the working hole here.
• Attach the guide profile for the racks to plasterboard ceiling You can use special drop-down dowels, which will ensure reliable fastening.

Sequence of work

• If you plan to finish both the walls and the ceiling, then work should begin with installing the frame on the ceiling. It’s rare that a ceiling can “boast” of even angles (90°) and if in this case you start renovation work from the walls, then fitting the plasterboard sheets at the top will become very difficult.
• Conduct electric installation work, bring the cable to the location points lighting fixtures. The wire length reserve should be 10-15 cm from the “new” ceiling. It is necessary to check all connections (operability) of the wiring. When installing spotlights, you should carefully plan the passage of metal parts of the structure.
• Surfaces are marked for installation of profiles. The starting point starts from the lowest corner or hump of the base ceiling. Horizontal guides, direct hangers, ceiling profiles are mounted, and plasterboard sheets are fixed.
• The frame is mounted on the walls in the same way. Their curvature is determined and the PN is installed on the ceiling and floor; if there are windows, the marking begins with them.
• It remains to carry out puttying and other finishing stages work.

Ceiling frame installation

• First, the distance to which the new ceiling will drop is determined. It should be remembered here that if they are mounted Spotlights, then you need to know their height - for some, 5-8 cm of inter-ceiling space is enough, for others - 12-15 cm.
• Next there is a point on the wall, from which all markings will be made. With help laser level A horizontal line is determined, which can be drawn with a pencil or using a tapping cord.
• Using a tape measure, measure the desired length of the profile and cut it using regular metal scissors. If necessary, they are easily joined by inserting one into the other; in this case, the overlap should be at least 3 cm and this point must be fixed with hardware.

• PNP is mounted along the lines on the walls, some models already have working holes, if not, then they are drilled in increments of 50 cm with a hammer drill or drill, depending on the base to which these profiles are attached.
• Next, marking is carried out for ceiling profiles. Step back approximately 60 cm from the wall (since walls are not always ideal sizes), and use a level to check the accuracy of the marks. The marks must be visible on the walls. Using a profile, here it will serve as a ruler, connect the lines on opposite walls, the resulting line will become a “point” of reference. Lines are drawn parallel to it, every 60 cm, along the entire ceiling.
• In the same way, line the length of the room; in the end, almost all the cells will have dimensions of 60x60 cm. The dimensions of the cells near the walls will have different parameters.
• Direct hangers are fixed with dowels (screws) in increments of 60-70 cm, the center of the base must be exactly along the marked line. In places where any devices or equipment will be installed (fan, lamp, air conditioner), it is recommended to additionally install traverses.

• Ceiling profiles for plasterboard should not be prepared “for future use”, as stated above, the distance from wall to wall is different points rooms may vary significantly. Therefore, for each profile the length is measured separately, and it should be 2-3 cm less than the width of the room.
• Ceiling profiles are inserted into the guides, where the central groove should exit at the risk. Secure its position with one self-tapping screw. If necessary, a coupling is used.
• Using metal scissors, prepare jumpers from the ceiling profile equal to 60 cm, and crossbars intended for installation at the edge (from the wall to the first longitudinal profile) are a couple of centimeters less than the actual distance.
• It is also necessary to ensure that the profile groove coincides with the marks on the walls; at the points of their connection with the longitudinal profile, install a single-level “crab”, securing it with self-tapping screws.

• The final stage of installation of this structure is to attach the ceiling profiles to the suspensions. To do this, a level is applied to the PP at each connection point. And after the deviations are checked and, if necessary, adjusted, fixation is made. Next, the installation of drywall sheets is carried out.

Metal wall frame

• Before installing the profile wall frame, everything is carried out electrical work, wires are supplied to sockets, switches and locations of lighting fixtures and household appliances.
• It should be noted right away that the technology for making a wall frame differs from installing a ceiling structure. First, one wall is completely finished, from the guide profiles to the installation of drywall. And only then does the transition to the next wall take place, and so on.

• Technologically complex objects when constructing wall frames are considered to be rooms with windows, since slopes require special attention. If it is intended to insulate the walls, then the vertical profiles should be installed at a distance of 5 cm from the base surface (old slopes).
• The width of the window sill is of great importance if the finishing of the walls begins after its installation, because the markings for the frame are made from the window. But here the thickness of the plasterboard sheet is also taken into account, which can be 9.5 or 12.5 mm.
• The square is applied to the frame and the distance is measured, not forgetting the additional 5 cm. This is also done on the other side of the window opening. Similar manipulations should be carried out if there are several windows in the room. These marks will mark the edge of the frame. You can immediately install the PN to the “bottom” of the window sill; in this case, the pitch of the vertical posts can be less than 60 cm.

• A level is applied to these risks to transfer them to the sides of the window sill. Based on these marks, using a level, mark the edge of the frame on the floor and ceiling. To install a metal structure, it is recommended to use a 2-meter level; it shows a more accurate value.
• The marks on the ceiling and floor are connected and profile guides are mounted along the resulting lines. The first PS are placed on the sides of the window, so the verticals are marked in increments of 60 cm from these profiles. One of them must be installed in the corner of the room.
• Installation of hangers is carried out every 60-70 cm, their center should be strictly along the line. Rack profiles are inserted into the guides so that their middle groove coincides with the mark on the ceiling and floor, and are connected to each other. Next, the level regulates their verticality along the base and shelves. Then final fixation is performed with self-tapping screws.

• The crossbars are installed using a “crab” Special attention You should pay attention to their installation in the window area. The horizontal lintel is mounted above the opening.
• After completing the fastening of the metal frame to the wall, it is recommended to sketch the location of the longitudinal and transverse profiles. This diagram may be needed if in the future there is a need to place a picture on the wall, another shelf, or hang a decorative flowerpot from the ceiling.
• Here, so-called “butterflies”, “umbrellas” and so on are used as fastening elements; the principle of their fastening is as follows: the plastic dowel spreads its “wings” when screwing in the screw, thus ensuring reliable fixation on the back side of the drywall.
• If you understand the installation principle and implement it first simple design under plasterboard sheets, then during the next repair it will be possible to implement more complex solutions: two-level ceiling, niches in the walls and arched doorways.

Redevelopment of premises in modern times does not require special construction skills. The simplest way to construct a partition is a plasterboard structure. It is easy to install and can be used to partition off rooms in residential areas. Partitions can be of various types, either solid or partial. The frame is made of galvanized profiles of various sizes.

Any plasterboard partition has a “skeleton” base for attaching gypsum plasterboard sheets. The sheets themselves are quite heavy and the frame for attaching them must be reliable. The profile for a plasterboard partition copes well with this load. The structures are quite strong and perfectly level.

Profiles vary in types and sizes; they require connecting elements that will complement the structure with greater reliability and connect the frame:

• The guide profile is used to attach the frame to the ceiling and floor;
• The rack forms the basis of the frame;
• The jumper profile connects the rack profiles;
• Ceiling;
• Corner element of the invoice;
• Suspensions;
• Single-level connector;
• Two-level connector;
• Flexible arch profile is used to create arches;
• Extension cut.

Profiles can also be reinforced or non-reinforced; it is better to make a drywall frame from reinforced profiles. It is worth paying attention to the quality of the material. More details on the types of metal profiles are presented in the article:.

A galvanized profile should not have any damage or traces of rust; the best profile is one with a zinc content of more than 99%; it is least susceptible to corrosion. Factory defects are often masked by painting profiles; it is worth understanding that hidden manufacturing defects are dangerous; the partition can simply collapse.

What profiles are needed for a plasterboard partition?

Each type of profile has its own purpose in installation. For each design, a specific set of metal profiles and connecting elements to them. For hemming walls and ceilings, flat ones are used - they do not have stiffening ribs and therefore do not withstand heavy loads well. Flexible arched profiles are used for the construction of various arches. With their help it is easy to make an arch of any shape, and for interior partitions– wall or partition profiles, they have special stiffening ribs in the form of two convex grooves along the entire length.

In order to make a partition, it is important to know what profiles are needed for a plasterboard partition:

• The guide partition (UW) is used to set the direction of the partition;
• The rack support profile for partitions (CW) is used to create the frame of the partition and is attached to the guide profiles;
• For structural rigidity between load-bearing profiles transverse lintel profiles are installed connecting the entire frame.

The construction market has a huge range of profiles according to different prices, however, it is important to remember the proper quality, frame profiles must withstand the required load.

Profiles must be taken of the same size; for volumetric partitions, wider ones are used; for partial or figured partitions, it is possible to use a standard profile 50 mm wide.

Galvanized profile for plasterboard partitions: dimensions

For different frames, profiles of different sizes are used. It is important to know what a particular profile is intended for in order to make the partition as efficiently as possible.

The following material will help you mount a plasterboard partition with your own hands: .

Profile for plasterboard partitions – dimensions:

• The guide profile has a width of 28 mm, a height of 27 mm, a length of 3 or 4 meters, a wall thickness of 0.5 - 0.6 mm;
• The supporting profile has a width from 42 mm to 150 mm, a shelf height of 27 mm - 40 mm, 3 or 4 meters long.

Partition profiles with a larger width are more resistant to shocks and impacts. It is important not to forget to make technical holes for laying internal communications.

Some types of profiles have ready-made holes with rubberized edges, so as not to damage the integrity of the wiring laid inside the plasterboard partition with sharp edges.

Recommendations on which profile to use for interior partitions

In addition to separation, plasterboard interior partitions must also provide sound insulation. This can be achieved by installing noise insulating material inside the wall.

Different rooms require different thicknesses of the partition and it depends on which profile to use for the partitions:

• To achieve a partition thickness of 7.5 cm, a profile with a width of 50 mm is used;
• A partition 10 cm thick emerges from a profile with a width of 75 mm;
• The thickness of the partition is 12.5 cm when using a profile with a width of 100 mm.

It should be noted that the most shaky and weakest partition will be when using profiles 50 mm wide; such a partition is best made as a partial or decorative part of the interior.

The optimal width for a wall blocking the space of a room is a 75 mm profile. Accordingly, the strongest partition will be a design using a 100 mm wide profile. The rigidity of thinner partitions can be increased by folding one profile into another or by adding a double layer of drywall.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard partition frame

A plasterboard partition is quite simple to install and does not require special skills. The main task is to select and prepare them for installation.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard partition frame is done in stages:

• Secure the guides along the floor and ceiling along the entire length of the partition;
• Insert and secure the rack profiles to the guides;
• Secure longitudinal jumpers at each step of the rack profiles;
• Cover the frame with gypsum board sheets and finish.

Before installing the partition, it is necessary to mark the surface of the floor and ceiling, measuring the required distance from the perpendicular wall at two points and then connecting it using a cord.

Do the same on the ceiling. Next, attach soundproofing tape to the profile guides. The guides must be installed using screws or dowels. Rack profiles are inserted first into the floor guides, and then into the ceiling ones, leveled using a level, and secured with screws at the top and bottom.

Sometimes the frame is made without transverse jumpers, but it is still advisable to make them so that the gypsum board sheets have more mounting space with the frame. This will give additional strength to the structure. After covering one side of the frame with plasterboard, it is necessary to lay the communications inside and only then the insulating material. It is necessary to screw the sheets of drywall along the edge directly to the rack profiles with screws and without fanaticism, recessing the caps slightly under the face of the sheet.

Types of profiles for plasterboard partitions (video)

The frame for the partition made of profiles is securely attached to the floor and ceiling, the surface is perfectly flat. Doorway has the same width along the entire perimeter, which makes it easier to install doors. There are a great many options for further finishing of a plasterboard partition, so such a wall is in no way inferior to brick walls.