Laying walls from blocks. Step-by-step instructions for laying expanded clay concrete blocks with your own hands

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Masonry of blocks is carried out during the construction of walls and partitions inside in the construction of buildings. Next we will look at the features this process from point of view home handyman, who decided to start laying blocks with his own hands.

They begin to erect the blocks on a horizontally leveled base and on a foundation that has gained the required strength.

When preparing blocks, they are guided by their types:

Blocks that can be placed on the solution. The geometry and dimensions of such concrete products may not be close to ideal. Since it is recommended to lay the masonry mortar with a thickness of 1.5, it is able to mask all the resulting irregularities. However, the heat conservation of this type of masonry leaves much to be desired. Therefore, the outside is insulated with mineral wool or polystyrene boards.
Device for laying blocks on glue. These products are distinguished by geometric accuracy. The thickness of the glue at the seam is 2-3 mm, due to which walls made of this kind of blocks are warmer and do not require compulsory work on thermal insulation.

Despite the fact that blocks with mortar cost less, their use is only advisable for walls combined type and in buildings for utility purposes. For a home, it is still better to build walls using the adhesive method.

Preparation work for the block laying procedure is limited to the procurement and delivery of materials, their unloading at the site, and the installation of a horizontal waterproofing layer. After necessary preparation They are starting to build block walls.

How to lay cellular concrete blocks on glue yourself?

What is prepared for the process:

concrete mixer or any container for mixing the mixture;
electric drill with a mixer attachment or electric mixer;
hydraulic level or level;
Master OK;
builder's level;
rubber mallet;
plumb line for the builder;
a saw with solders from pobedit on the teeth;
angle that guides the saw;
a brush with stiff bristles;
a spatula-comb or a special scoop with a jagged edge;
materials: glue composition, cement with sand and water;
ware for shutters.

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Laying the first row of blocks

The quality of the masonry of the blocks, coupled with the accuracy in the first row, determines the entire process of building walls in the future. When everything is done correctly from the very beginning, all the walls will fit together, just like in a construction set. To give the horizontal plane the required evenness, the first row is made with a masonry mortar made of sand and cement. A seam with a thickness of about 2 cm allows you to make unevenness and differences in the base invisible. The classic ratio of parts is used: 1 to 3. In order to increase the viscosity, a plasticizer or liquid soap is used.

Masonry begins by laying elements at the corner. They are mounted so that each individual corner of the building from the outside is located exactly in its place. This is achieved through marking. The direction of installation is one way. When laying out the next row, the laying orientation is changed to the opposite direction.

Control the repositioning of the elements of the joints and seams of the previous row.

The solution is poured over the place of the corner, the product is placed and tapped on it with a rubber mallet, correcting its placement according to horizontal level and markings. After completing the installation of the corner elements, they proceed to laying the walls between the corners.

Please note: it is important to immediately check the diagonals between the corners, since it will be almost impossible to correct the error in the future. Similarly, each laid out block row is checked using a plumb line. At the same time they use modern devices, and more proven means (for example, when the reference point is gravity).

Before embedding into the wall, all products are dusted and cleaned of dirt with a brush dipped in water. Many craftsmen note that a block surface treated with water (especially in hot weather) more effectively absorbs adhesive composition, which has a beneficial effect on the strength characteristics of the masonry.

When filling the inter-corner distance, colored thickened fishing line is often used. It is pulled between the upper edges of the blocks from the outside to get a clear line of the upper edge of the wall from the outside.

The ends of each product are coated with glue using a special scoop with teeth on the edge or a spatula-comb.

Spread the solution onto the base in an even layer. A block product is installed on it, one edge of which is trimmed with a mallet in accordance with the stretched fishing line. Using a building level, the horizontal is controlled throughout its entire plane. The block along the edges between the corners is cut to size, taking into account the thickness of the layers of glue at the ends. Even sawing of blocks is facilitated by a special kind of saw with pobedite solders and a tool for making smooth right angle. In this sequence, product after product is placed in the first row.

After laying out the row, control over protruding irregularities at the joining points is carried out. Having discovered such, they are eliminated special grater. This will prevent waviness in the next row. The leveled surface is cleaned with a dampened brush.

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Second and subsequent rows of block wall

The masonry is carried out strictly using glue, the composition of which is made using a mixer or an electric drill with a mixer-type tip. Before mixing, be sure to read the instructions on the package.

The glue is distributed across the entire width to the end of the side and the top edge of the already laid blocks below. High-quality installation involves sealing a seam thickness of no more than 3 mm. Then the glue consumption will be as follows: a 25 kg bag per 1 cubic meter of products.

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How are wall lintels installed?

Installing jumpers involves choosing one of several methods:

installation of factory-made lintels with reinforcement made of cellular concrete;
installation of reinforced concrete lintels from the factory;
production of jumpers using U-shaped cellular material;
production of monolithic lintels using formwork.

When installing reinforced cellular concrete lintels from the factory, special attention is paid to the correctness of their location. It is unacceptable to cut jumpers to length. On each side, the depth of support for the lintel is 25 cm. In accordance with the thickness of the walls, one or two combined opening lintels are used. On each there is an inscription indicating the permissible load and the method of placing reinforcement in it. Cellular concrete lintels with reinforcement are the best option in terms of thermal insulation.

The ease of installation lies in the fact that they are similar in size to blocks and are laid using glue.

However, there are also arched lintels. They are installed in the same way as standard ones. And their use eliminates the need to install complex formwork and wait for hardening concrete material. Therefore, their use is economical both in time and in finance.

The manufacture of lintels using U-shaped cellular products requires the construction of wooden scaffolds with reinforcing supports in the openings. U-shaped products are placed on such scaffoldings to prevent removable formwork.

In order to increase the heat-saving properties of such a lintel, U-shaped products are placed with their widest edge outward.

The span to be covered using U-shaped materials should be a maximum of 2.5 m. The length of the supports in the case of using U-shaped products should be no less than 0.2 m if the span is 1.5 m long and no less than 0.25 m if the spans are longer.

The reinforcement frame is placed in a block tray along its entire length and filled with concrete.

The masonry mixture is compacted well until air bubbles are completely removed from it.

Remove the scaffolding with supports placed for the blocks when pouring concrete required strength. It should take approximately 28 days.

Installation of reinforced concrete lintels from the factory or produced at the construction site using removable formwork is carried out indoors, where high quality Thermal insulation from the wall is not required. The installation conditions are similar to the installation of reinforced cellular concrete lintels (U-shaped products). There is a small difference: the finished jumpers are placed on sand-cement mixture for masonry. After pouring the reinforced concrete lintel, removable formwork is installed.

Posted By: 03/03/2017

In the previous article we told how we found it. It is with this that the construction of the first row of walls made of aerated concrete blocks will begin. This is done due to the fact that by changing the thickness of the sand-cement mixture, we can later easily level the first row of blocks, which will become the basis of the entire masonry.

By the way, we also checked our measurements using a water level. To do this, they poured water into it, installed it on corner blocks, and then checked the values. This measuring instrument and we will definitely devote one of our future articles to its use. Now let’s just summarize that our measurements with water level are completely identical.

Now we will tell you step by step about the procedure for installing and laying aerated concrete blocks, and to be precise, about how we did it and what nuances we encountered.

How to lay the first row of aerated concrete blocks.

Installation of corner blocks on the foundation. First of all, we placed 4 corner blocks. I would like to note that at first we carried out all the manipulations by eye, then we took measurements. Our blocks are located outside the foundation. Thus, when installing the blocks, we checked the dimensions of the outriggers several times different parts block. To ease your conscience, we checked the indicators using a water level laser level. Then we needed to check the distances between the blocks, they must match the design of the house. And it would be good to check the diagonals; they, as when marking a house, should be equal. Unfortunately, we did not have the opportunity to check the diagonals, since the foundation was filled with flying blocks, but everything agreed on the size of the future walls.
Guide for laying blocks. We stretch the mooring. Now we need to tighten the guide, which will later serve as a guide when installing the first row of aerated concrete blocks on the foundation of the house. For this we used the most regular rope(construction cord) bright yellow color. It is better to choose a brighter color so that it is clearly visible. We tried 2 options. The first involved stretching the rope between the remnants of reinforcement driven into the ground. The second involves attaching metal corners to the blocks, and then tightening the lace in a similar manner. In both cases, the rope must pass through the corners of the blocks. With its help, you not only set the masonry guide, but also double-check whether the corner blocks are aligned correctly. If the lace clearly passes along the border of the blocks, then you have done everything correctly, and you can begin full-fledged masonry. By the way, we liked the second option with the placement of the mooring more.
Laying corner blocks on the mortar. We laid the first row of blocks on a ready-made sand-cement mixture, to which you just had to add water according to the instructions. We started with corner blocks. To ensure that the blocks do not move from the proven location during installation, we pre-circled the boundaries of the block with a white construction marker, not only on the foundation itself, but also on our roofing felt sides, which we talked about in the article about waterproofing the foundation. Thus, having accidentally moved an aerated concrete block, we clearly understood to what place on the foundation it needed to be returned. Then they applied sand-cement mortar to the foundation and then laid the block on it, clearly understanding the boundaries beyond which it should not go. Using building and water levels, as well as a rubber mallet (special hammer), we achieved even masonry. Then the first 4 corner blocks were allowed to dry on sand-cement mortar to secure the position.
Laying the first row of blocks. The corners were ready. Now you need to continue laying the first row. By the way, before laying the blocks, we recommend that you quickly clean them by walking over them literally a couple of times with a spatula and brush to remove any possible irregularities, and then construction dust. Let's return to the masonry. After counting required quantity blocks per row, it became clear to us that we need additional blocks, i.e. blocks that need to be adjusted to length. It is not recommended to make an additional block less than 10 cm. If such a small gap remains, it is better to first reduce 2 blocks in order to eliminate the need to install one. It is better to place smaller blocks not in a row, but one by one to different parties. This will simplify the laying of aerated concrete in the future. The entire first row is placed on a sand-cement mortar, and the bases are lubricated with it. We lubricate the sides of the blocks special glue, intended for aerated concrete. In the future, glue will be used when installing all other rows except the first one instead of sand- cement mortar. We use a mallet to level the blocks and remove excess mortar. At the same time, we knock down the blocks not only from above, but also from the sides, constantly checking their location and joints with a level. I would like to remind you that we started laying blocks with top corner foundation, so now is the time to turn Special attention to level out all foundation defects using sand-cement mortar. That is, in the place where the highest corner of the foundation was located, the layer of mortar will be smaller than in the lowest corner of the foundation. Thanks to this manipulation, we lay the first row in such a way that it removes all the unevenness of the foundation and prepares good foundation under the remaining rows, ensuring us in the future smooth walls Houses.

This step by step instructions laying aerated concrete blocks is theoretically correct, but we encountered some nuances that caused our masonry to go downhill. We will now tell you about these mistakes and tricks.

Attempt No. 1 of laying the first row of aerated concrete blocks.

Everything was done according to the instructions. At the stage of laying corner blocks, it was discovered that the building level, when changing its position, slightly changes its indicator. At a distance of 11 meters, this error in calculations can give quite unpleasant results.

Conclusion: for laying aerated concrete or any other blocks, it is necessary to use the most accurate building level. In this case, the proverb “the miser pays twice” is directly related to the situation...

Attempt No. 2 of laying the first row of aerated concrete blocks.

We acquired a new, more accurate construction level. We installed corner blocks, then installed the entire first row around the perimeter. All measurements showed excellent results. But we encountered another problem, which you can find out about in the second part of the article HERE.

In the meantime, we offer you a video from our YouTube channel with a detailed step-by-step story about installing corner blocks on the foundation and complete installation the first row of aerated concrete blocks. Enjoy your viewing and look forward to your feedback and comments.

Best wishes,

Yana and Zhenya Shigorev.

Walls built from expanded clay concrete blocks have good strength characteristics comparable to brick ones. The adhesive properties of this material with other cement-based materials are also good, which is why there are no fundamental differences from brickwork few. It is permissible to build a small one-story room from expanded clay blocks yourself, without a preliminary design. However, you need to know some features, follow the manual and follow the entire construction technology step by step.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to prepare the following tools: a tape measure, a level, a plumb line, a rubber mallet, a trowel for applying mortar, a cord for marking, a square, a power tool for cutting blocks and grooves for reinforcement.

Where to start laying blocks is by preparing the foundation on which it is supposed to be built. The surface of the foundation must be as flat as possible so that the difference in height between the corners of the building does not exceed 3 cm. To do this, arrange a leveling layer of cement composition. After this, you need to lay out waterproofing that separates the foundation from the masonry walls so that there is no capillary suction of water from the foundation.

Laying the first row

Laying of expanded clay concrete blocks can be carried out either with special glue or with regular DSP. However, if you plan to use additional insulation of the facade, there is no need for adhesives with reduced thermal conductivity. The thickness of the seams should be on average 12 mm.

Note: during construction in winter time years, frost-resistant additives should be added to the solution according to the instructions.

The laying of the first row begins from the corner of the foundation, and from the highest. This is determined by the leveling method. But when building walls with your own hands, you can limit yourself to the building level. The first expanded clay block must be placed on a minimum layer of composition; it should be leveled as much as possible in the plane according to the plan, as well as vertically and horizontally, using a level. Then the corner blocks are left for a while to allow the solution to set. This way the laid element becomes a kind of beacon to which the entire row is led.

Laying the second and subsequent rows

Step-by-step instruction for laying expanded clay blocks:

1. Mark the area according to the layout, mark the locations of window and doorways.

2. At the corners of the walls, install a vertical strip with markings according to the height of the rows. It is possible to do without it; often they simply use a “mason’s corner”. Pull the mooring cord under the laying of the new row.

3. Transfer the required number of blocks and ready-made solution for one row directly into work area. Provide Free access to auxiliary tools.

4. Apply a layer of glue and lay the brick on it.

Note: when laying walls from expanded clay concrete blocks with your own hands for the first time, it is better to start by spreading the composition only under one block; later, as you develop dexterity, you can lay 3–4 blocks at a time.

5. Level using a level and light tapping with a suitable tool (you can use a trowel to distribute the adhesive mixture).

6. Lay the next brick.

Laying schemes, bandaging and joining

Laying expanded clay concrete walls begins at the corners, the blocks are carefully leveled, and the mortar is given time to set. Then a cord is tied to the corners and the entire row is laid out along it. The last element is usually non-standard and needs to be sawn to size.

Note: the height of self-supporting walls should not exceed 3.5 m, and the free length should not exceed 8 m.

The walls may be different designs, the most common are:

In one row (half a block thick), these are obtained when laying expanded clay concrete blocks in the longitudinal direction. Here there is a classic ligation of the spoon rows with an offset of at least 0.4 from the height of the block (100 mm).
In two rows (one block thick), dressing here is carried out by shifting the spoon rows relative to each other by at least 100 mm both in the longitudinal direction of the wall and in the transverse direction. In this case, it is necessary to do a tie dressing every 2 rows - this is when expanded clay blocks are located across the wall, across its entire thickness.

Pairing interior walls with external ones, it can be done by tying the masonry or by anchoring blocks, mortgages or reinforcing elements in increments of 600 mm (the permissible minimum is two tyings per floor height). All steel products used in dressings must be corrosion-resistant (stainless steel or specially coated).

Reinforcement and lintels

In order to smooth out subsidence and shrinkage deformations of the masonry, as well as reduce the risk of cracking, girdle reinforcement is installed for every third row. For this purpose, when carrying out work on their own, steel rods of periodic profile with a diameter of 8 - 10 mm are more often used. For them, you need to make a groove of such a depth (up to 25 mm) that the rods are completely immersed there, without sticking out anywhere. The reinforcement should not be interrupted at the corners of the structure; it would be correct to bend it with a certain radius. Next, you should lay the solution in the groove, “drown” the rod in it and cover it on top.

Reinforcement is required in the following support rows:

1. Under door and window openings. In these places it is necessary to place two rows of reinforcement 500 - 900 mm longer than the width of the opening on each side.

2. Under the ceiling. Here, around the perimeter of the walls, encircling double-row reinforcement or frame reinforcement is installed, laid in U-shaped blocks.

If the masonry is carried out independently, without a preliminary design and calculations, then, giving in to the desire to “work better and stronger,” you can make girdle reinforcement every 3 rows, this will increase the crack resistance of the structure as a whole.

Over window and door openings, lintels can be arranged as follows:

Using U-shaped products. To do this, a support formwork is constructed, trays are laid out on it with an overflow of at least 250 mm onto the wall. They fit reinforcement cage, and everything is poured with concrete, which is compacted by bayonet, then the surface must be leveled.
Using ready-made . They are laid on a layer of mortar with an overflow of 100 mm for non-load-bearing structures and at least 250 mm for load-bearing structures.
You can also use rolled steel profiles (angles, square pipes) as permanent support formwork. You can simply lay expanded clay blocks on top with a regular dressing.

The floor should be supported on a support row with encircling reinforcement, which will evenly redistribute the load along the entire perimeter. If used reinforced concrete slab or beams, it is recommended to anchor the floor to the walls using bent reinforcement rods (for example, Ø8 A240). One side of the bent rod is hooked to the mounting loop of the ceiling, and the other is placed along the expanded clay blocks. It is also advisable to additionally protect the ends of floor slabs in external walls with a layer of insulation.

In cases where you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to turn to specialists. The cost of masonry per cube in the regions of Russia varies from 900 to 1600 rubles, the highest prices are in Moscow. Also, the cost depends on the types of work included in the estimate; for example, loading is sometimes considered separately.

If you are building new house, then you definitely want it to end up being reliable and of good quality. Currently the most common building materials are gas blocks (this can be gas silicate or foam concrete, as well as ceramic block). The main nuances that you need to pay attention to during construction:

1. Marking the corners of the wall box (perimeter).
2. Laying blocks and raising walls.
3. Work with door and window openings (installation of lintels).
4. Construction of a monolithic (reinforced) belt.
5. Interior partitions.

To lay a gas block, both cement mortar and “profile” adhesive for gas blocks can be used. If you intend to carry out work using cement mortar, you must take into account that in this case the formation of so-called “cold bridges” cannot be avoided, that is, additional heat loss through the interblock joints. The advantages of this particular option are that it increases the strength of the entire structure.

When special glue is used in the work, you need to leave an “air strip” between the layers - this will allow you to perform additional thermal insulation walls

First, you should align the block in a horizontal plane using a rubber hammer. The most important process can be called placing four supporting corner blocks - this operation requires both skill and attention. It should be noted that half the success depends on how these four blocks are installed, including the evenness of future wall structures. Subsequently, you should pull a thread between the support blocks and along this thread, lay the blocks in a row using an adhesive solution, carefully lubricating them together. If there is a need to cut blocks, then for these purposes you should use a special hacksaw with pobedit tips. It should be noted that such a tool can be of two types: with tips “through the tooth” and “on each tooth”. The difference in price in this case can be about fifteen percent, but a saw “for each tooth” is much more convenient to use, and besides, the quality of cutting with such a tool will be higher.

Standard size wall block is 600x300x200, so the length building level should be no more than eighty centimeters. In order to check the horizontal plane of the block, it is necessary to place the level in two positions diagonally across the block. The alignment of the wall is carried out along a stretched thread. For getting construction mixture the glue is diluted with plain water and mixed with a mixer until it has a consistency similar to sour cream. To apply the glue, use a fifteen-centimeter notched trowel. The solution is applied in the form of two strips along the edge of the block so that a narrow strip without glue remains in the center.

If you use this particular method of application, then the block should be leveled - this is much more convenient. In addition, due to air gap between the blocks the thermal characteristics of the wall will improve. After all, as you know, the very “bottleneck” place through which heat loss occurs is precisely the adhesive seams. Since the gas silicate block perfectly absorbs moisture, it is advisable to moisten the blocks with water before applying glue, because if the glue is applied to a dry block, it will dry immediately. Naturally, this will not have the best effect on the strength and bond of the entire structure, since dry glue will not provide the required strength.

Initially, the block should be aligned in a horizontal plane, after which, with several blows to the end, the block is pressed against the previous block in the row. It should be noted that blocks crumble quite easily, so you should not apply excessive force upon impact.

In the process of laying blocks, starting from the second row, it is imperative to carry out the so-called “ligation”, that is, each subsequent row must shift at least fifteen or twenty centimeters relative to the previous one. It is imperative to check the presence of dressings in those places where the joints of load-bearing walls occur.

As for roofing felt, it is needed for the entire first row around the perimeter of the house. It is also important to leave a gap - for example, the roofing material should protrude 15-10 centimeters from under the block. An allowance of ten centimeters should also be made between the sheets of such a substrate.

Start window openings is located at a height of one hundred centimeters (level of the fourth row). Subsequently, the height of the window will be eighty to eighty-five centimeters (taking into account the screed and insulation on the floor). As for the end of the window openings, it will be at the level of the tenth to eleventh row (depending on the height of the ceiling). According to existing aesthetic standards, the distance from the ceiling to the opening should not be more than 35 cm. Regarding doorways, it should be noted that they will end at the level of the ninth row, that is, at a height of 2.25 meters. After the subfloors are poured and insulation is laid, the height of the openings will be 2.10-2.15 meters. Jumpers must be installed above the openings. There are two ways to do this. The simplest is the installation of a reinforced concrete lintel made in a factory. However, the specific features of such a design should also be taken into account. Thus, reinforced concrete has a fairly high thermal conductivity, which is why in the cold season such a structure will freeze with all the ensuing consequences. Moreover, sometimes it is problematic to acquire ready product, ideally suited to your geometric dimensions. Moreover, the cost of a factory jumper includes not only the direct cost of the product, but also the cost of its transportation. That's why the best option manufacturing of a jumper is considered on our own. This method can even be called less labor-intensive compared to the previous one. You should start by installing spacers for the future product. The spacers can be nailed to the block using regular nails (150 or 120). It will also be necessary to strengthen the monolithic lintel from below, and this must be maintained for at least a month.

Strictly maintaining the level of the previous row of blocks, it is necessary to set the guides. Next, you should prepare the formwork (non-removable) for future design- these will be blocks with hollows cut into them. The overall dimensions of these hollows are as follows: width 20 cm, height 15 cm. To prevent the block from “slipping out” of the monolithic lintel, when sawing out, you need to form a small extension to the base of the block. When the tray blocks are ready, they should be installed on the spacers, as always, applying glue to each other. To prevent the formation of chips and cracks in the wall, as well as to prevent the lintel from sagging, you should ensure that the tray block extends at least twenty centimeters onto the load-bearing wall.

When the tray is ready, concrete (M200 or higher) is poured into it. The composition ratio of cement-sand-crushed stone will be 1:1.5:3. At the end of the process, reinforcement should be laid in the concrete (2 or 3 pieces, cross-section - 10...12 mm). This should be done as low as possible to the base of the block, since this is where the tensile load is maximum. After this, the finished lintel should be left for about a month, but the laying of blocks can continue. Naturally, it is impossible to load the lintels with floor slabs.

Monolithic belt

After the last row of blocks has been laid, it is imperative to pour a monolithic reinforced concrete belt. Based on the minimum block thickness allowed according to SNiP, which is 400-500 mm, the belt must have dimensions of at least 200x150 mm. Of course, the belt is not poured over the entire width of the block - thermal insulation is mandatory.

To do this, use one of the two most acceptable methods:

A gas silicate block can also be used directly as a heat insulator,
use polystyrene foam for thermal insulation.

The high practicality of the first method should be taken into account, since polystyrene foam is less durable than gas silicate. In addition, thermal insulation made from blocks does not require the installation of formwork - the blocks themselves are permanent formwork.

Thermal insulation made of gas silicate. The blocks are cut in such a way that two types of pieces are obtained - 15x15 and 5x15 cm (belt height - 150 mm). The resulting pieces are laid as follows - the larger one is laid on the street side, and the smaller one on the room side. As a result, a hollow measuring 200x150 mm is formed between the blocks. The structure should be left for two to three days to allow the glue to dry. This is necessary to prevent the blocks from bursting during the concrete pouring process. Such permanent formwork constructed on all load-bearing walls without exception. After the glue has dried, you need to begin laying reinforcement around the perimeter of the belt. Two rows of reinforcement with a diameter of 8...12 mm will be sufficient. It is important to complete all work very quickly, no more than one day, to avoid concrete hardening. Otherwise, cracks may appear at the joints.

Subsequently, floor slabs are laid on this belt - the floor is covered. Similarly, a monolithic belt is made under the roof.

Partitions

As for interior partitions, as a rule, blocks with a thickness of one hundred to two hundred millimeters are used for their manufacture. The choice of block thickness depends both on the purpose of the premises and on the desired sound and heat insulation properties. For partitions there is no need to fill in a monolithic belt, but they must be tied to the load-bearing walls. Basically, for this purpose, reinforcement is used in pieces 20-25 centimeters long, which are driven half of its length into the load-bearing wall. The entry point of the reinforcement into the block is outlined, because in the future this place will be connected to load-bearing wall. To prevent the block from splitting, a hole is drilled in it slightly larger than the length of the reinforcement, and all joints are coated with glue in advance. A dressing must be used between rows. To bandage partitions and ceilings, they often use construction foam. Foaming must be done across the entire width of the wall, first going through one side and then the other. When the foam dries, its excess can be removed using a regular stationery knife. Since foam has weak compression and fracture characteristics, the gap between ceiling covering and the block should not be more than one or two centimeters. The method of laying partition walls is similar to the method of laying blocks in load-bearing structures. It should be noted that the load-bearing partition must be made of wall blocks, since such a structure will be subject to the load of the floor slabs.

It should also be noted that by following the above technologies and rules, you will be reliably insured against all those common mistakes that are widespread among inexperienced house builders who try to perform any work without the appropriate knowledge.

Lightweight (so-called structural-thermal-insulating) blocks have many advantages over other materials. This affordable price, good insulating ability and quick laying, because each block is equal in volume to several bricks. Of course, there are also disadvantages, such as low strength and moisture resistance (this is especially true for popular products made from cellular concrete). However, modern technologies make it easy to overcome these shortcomings. Sometimes it is more difficult to solve problems that arise before construction begins - to decide on the type of blocks, thickness and design of the walls.

Thermal insulation capacity of walls made of light blocks

According to the current SP 50.13330.2012 “ Thermal protection buildings", the required reduced heat transfer resistance of the building (R0), for example, for Arkhangelsk is 3.56 m2 °C/W, for Moscow and St. Petersburg - about 3.2 m2 °C/W, for Krasnodar - 2.34 m2 °C/W

To find out required thickness single-layer wall made of a certain material, you need to multiply R0 by the thermal conductivity coefficient of this material (we have given their values in the table). Solving this problem is complicated by the fact that the thermal conductivity coefficient of light blocks varies over a fairly wide range depending on the production technology. Thus, in the case of expanded clay concrete, the gravel fraction is important, and the microstructure influences the thermal conductivity of porous blocks ceramic stone, volume and configuration of voids.

When purchasing blocks made of cellular concrete, you should request a copy of the GOST 21520-89 certificate of conformity from the company and independently check the strength of the material with an impact sclerometer.

It is worth noting that single-layer block walls of a “reasonable” thickness at the latitude of Moscow do not reach the norm. Let's say R0 is a fence from gas silicate blocks grade D500 (density 500 kg/m3) 400 mm thick is approximately 2.9 m2 °C/W. Therefore, many developers choose multi-layer insulated construction.

How to make lintels over openings. Large manufacturers of modern ceramic and gas silicate blocks, such as Wienerberger and Ytong, offer reinforced lintels, but these products are quite expensive and are not available everywhere, so more often the openings are blocked with pieces of rolled metal - corners and channels, embedded in grooves.

Layered masonry options

Masonry made of porous blocks 250 mm thick with insulation with mineral wool (100 mm) and brick lining. A ventilation gap of 50 mm (a) is left between the insulation and the brick. Wall made of foam concrete blocks 400 mm thick with half-brick cladding; flexible connections (thin steel plates or rods) are located in increments of 400–600 mm vertically and horizontally (b). Visualization: Igor Smiryagin/Burda Media

Climate in the house

Walls made of lightweight blocks provide a comfortable indoor microclimate, as they remove excess moisture from the air (with the exception of polystyrene concrete). This quality is especially valuable in the absence of modern ventilation system.

Many experts do not recommend covering block walls from the inside with vapor barrier films, as this will worsen the microclimate in the house. It is necessary to ensure intensive evaporation of moisture from the outer surface of the walls. From this point of view in the best possible way finishing a house from light blocks is with a ventilation gap or installation curtain façade.

Insulation and finishing

Light blocks, including ceramic ones, are not decorative enough and also need protection from atmospheric moisture. The most common finishing methods block walls are facing (lining) with bricks, plastering, on glue solution and installation. All of them allow you to additionally insulate the walls.

It is not advisable to use polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam boards, as well as sprayed polyurethane foam, to insulate walls made of lightweight blocks. These materials have low vapor permeability and prevent the wall from releasing moisture that penetrates into the structure with room air.

Walls with brick cladding belong to the construction “classics” and are still popular to this day, despite the fact that this is a rather expensive and labor-intensive method of finishing; moreover, to implement it, it is necessary to increase the designed width of the foundation strip (grillage) by 150 mm, and if provided insulation, then 200/250 mm.

In Russian cities for centuries, houses were built with the first stone and second wooden floor. Modern finishing techniques allow for “architectural inversion”. Photo: Planken.ru

Vapor permeability brick cladding is small, and it is able to trap moisture inside the load-bearing wall. Therefore, a ventilation gap of 20–40 mm is provided between the brick and the blocks. If the masonry of walls and cladding is carried out simultaneously, then the brick is connected to the blocks with embedded lintels.

When cladding an already built house, anchors are used. The insulation is most often pressed against the blocks using plastic washers placed on the jumper rods.

When installing a warm plaster facade, first slabs of mineral wool high density(or two-layer), using support profiles, special glue and disc dowels. Next, the first layer of solution is applied to the insulation. Photo: Vladimir Grigoriev/Burda Media

The grid is closed finishing layer plaster. An attempt to apply plaster in one layer (on top of a somehow fixed mesh) will lead to delamination of the structure. Photo: Vladimir Grigoriev/Burda Media

The plaster façade must be resistant to peeling and have a vapor permeability of at least 0.09 mg/(m h Pa). It is most reliable to use ready-made cement and cement-lime compositions, for example Cerzit ST24, weber.stuk 411. It is recommended to plaster walls made of foam concrete, aerated concrete, polystyrene concrete and ceramic blocks using a mesh.

Clinker cladding has become fashionable due to a slight reduction in the price of this beautiful and durable material. Clinker tiles are glued to the wall, leveled with a base layer of plaster. When insulating, first slabs of high-density mineral wool are attached using special glue, then a layer of plaster is applied and the tiles are installed.

One of the fashionable ones today finishing materials- wooden plank. The boards are nailed with gaps so that the sheathing does not swell when wet. Photo: Dörken

The curtain façade is the fastest to install and allows you to finish the house with the most different materials- blockhouse and lanken, vinyl and metal siding, panels made of fiber cement and wood-polymer composite, concrete and stone tiles.

Curtain façade option

Construction elements: 1 - bearing wall; 2 - insulation (fibre boards 100 mm thick); 3 - hydro-windproof membrane; 4 - double-sided tape for joints; 5 - facade board. Photo: Dörken

Types of light blocks

Arbolite

Arbolite (sometimes not quite correctly called sawdust concrete). It is made from sand-cement mixture and wood chips. The material is difficult to ignite and does not support combustion; it can be sawed with a hacksaw, but at the same time it holds fasteners well (unlike aerated concrete).

Aerated concrete

The raw materials for its production are fine quartz sand, binders (lime, gypsum, cement) and aluminum powder. When aluminum reacts with an alkaline cement or silicate solution, hydrogen bubbles are formed, due to which the material acquires a cellular structure. The set voluminous monolith is sawed into blocks, which are then dried in an autoclave or electric oven. The technology allows you to vary the density of blocks. Products with a density of 500 kg/m3 or more are considered structural (that is, capable of absorbing force loads).

Gas silicate

Variety aerated concrete block, manufactured without the use of a cement binder. This is the technology used by leading manufacturers (for example, Ytong). Silicate blocks are somewhat less durable than cement blocks, but have a more uniform structure.

Expanded clay concrete

It is made from sand cement and expanded clay gravel as a filler. There are hollow (double-hollow, four-slit) and solid blocks. The former are cheaper and easier, but the presence of large cavities makes some difficult construction works, for example, stabbing. The main disadvantages of expanded clay concrete blocks are their relatively low thermal insulation capacity and instability geometric dimensions(tolerance up to 5 mm).

Ceramic porous block

Otherwise - ceramic porous multi-hollow block. It can be considered the last step in the evolution of red slot brick. The block is also made from fusible clay, but its dimensions are 5–8 times larger, and its voids content reaches 55%; the voids have the shape of narrow channels, and intensive convective heat exchange does not occur in them, which improves the insulating ability. The ceramic block must be placed only on a plastic mortar that does not fill voids. The material is more difficult to process than cellular concrete, but has significantly greater strength and durability.

Foam concrete

This cellular block is similar in basic characteristics to aerated concrete, but differs in production technology: synthetic or organic foaming agents are added to the mixture of cement and sand. Foam concrete is superior in strength to gas silicate, but has a less uniform structure.

Perlite concrete

It uses expanded perlite sand as a filler. The block’s heat-insulating ability is not inferior to aerated concrete, but is much more heat-resistant and durable. The material is produced in Russia in extremely small volumes, and its price is clearly overpriced (from 6 thousand rubles per 1 m 3).

Polystyrene concrete

Expanded polystyrene granules occupy more than 50% of its volume. This block is very “warm”, but has low vapor permeability.

Slag concrete

Today it is produced only in some regions of the Non-Black Earth Region. The material is very cheap, but has low thermal insulation characteristics.