DIY plaster paintings for beginners. Bas-relief on the wall - the best ideas for design and modern sculpture (115 photos)

Once upon a time, decorating the interior with stucco molding and bas-reliefs was available only to the highest nobility, the rich and large temples. Nowadays, making a bas-relief with your own hands is just a matter of labor and patience. Achievements modern technologies allow people who do not have an art education, but who are not devoid of artistic taste and imagination, to bypass the technical difficulties of creating stucco molding at home. Create bas-reliefs like those in Fig. Below, it is quite possible for a patient and attentive amateur.

Bas-reliefs of modern work

New materials

Besides traditional material for stucco - plaster - do-it-yourself stucco can be created from modern building mixtures with polymer additives; they are often combined under common name"acrylic plasters". You can learn how to increase the volume of a bas-relief with construction putty compounds from the video:

Video: sculpting a bas-relief from putty

Hobbyists also use a basic composition of architectural plaster, acrylic plaster and PVA glue in a ratio of 1:1:0.5 by volume. Gypsum and plaster mixture mix dry and cover with water, i.e. add water to the mixture, not the other way around. Bring to a dough consistency like yogurt or low-fat kefir and add PVA, stirring thoroughly. The thickness of the mixture is selected according to the type of work with it, in which case which mixture is needed, see below.

Types of bas-reliefs

The bas-relief on the wall is made using the technique of low relief (top left in the figure) or high, with protruding figures (top right). A high bas-relief is also called high relief. Technically, high relief differs from low bas-relief in that the figures are sculpted like a round sculpture (see below). Low bas-relief looks good in any lighting, except very dim, and high relief looks better in diffused light.

Types of bas-reliefs

In living spaces, which are often lit quite brightly and evenly, it makes sense to use a mixed bas-relief technique (bottom left), without making the figures very convex. How to sculpt the bas-relief “Klimt Tree”, see for example. Master class video below:

Video: master class bas-relief “Klimt’s Tree”

The peculiarity of this work is that it uses almost all the techniques for creating bas-reliefs at home. Having become familiar with them visually, it will be easier for you to understand further and apply them in any of the techniques described below.

Note: At one time, the Austrian artist Gustav Klimt created the composition “Tree of Life”. Her style is so unique that the expression “Klimt tree” has become popular.

Reverse bas-relief, or counter-relief (bottom center in the top figure) is no longer stucco, but stone carving (the contours are cut in depth), which is technically much more complex. Therefore, we only note that the counter-relief needs bright and sharp oblique light, because the image actually draws a shadow. There is also a special type of bas-relief - shadow, bottom right, where the entire pattern is formed by shadows from small and minute protrusions and depressions a certain shape. When the direction and angle of incidence of light changes, the pattern changes, even changing facial expressions throughout the day. Shadow bas-relief is the highest art and, alas, short-lived: the protrusions and depressions become clogged and lose their shape when cleaned. The drawing fades, blurs, disappears.

Bas-relief techniques

Stucco molding on the wall at home can be done in one of the following ways, in order of increasing technical complexity:

Plastering of free ones, i.e. models that were not initially fixed to the supporting surface and cannot be removed;
Plastering of non-removable models on the supporting surface. These methods are especially good for beginners, because... allow you to receive the corresponding high and low relief, without risking the need to redo the whole work again in case of failure;
Reverse casting from plaster according to the model to be removed. The method is somewhat more labor-intensive, but also suitable for beginners, because... You can pore over the model as much as you like until it is perfect. In addition, in one mold (form, mold) made according to a model, up to 20-30 identical products can be cast at home;
Artistic plaster stucco in place, i.e. directly on the supporting surface. It requires thorough skills, but makes it possible to create large relief panels covering the entire wall, with contours around corners, going to the ceiling, and complete freedom of creative expression.

In place or on a sheet?

It is possible to make a bas-relief using methods 2-4 both locally and in parts on a table or floor. An excellent basis for fragments of a prefabricated bas-relief - plasterboard sheet, GKL. It is prepared as a base surface (see below), parts of the overall picture or complete compositions are drawn out on separate sheets or pieces of the desired shape (see figure), and mounted on a leveled wall.

Relief panels

The fastener heads and joints of the fragments are puttied with a base compound, then plastered and rubbed to match the base texture. Another good thing about prefabricated bas-reliefs is that a piece damaged due to inexperience can be remade without touching the rest. The bad thing is that the whole composition turns out to be heavy; It is impossible to attach a prefabricated bas-relief to weak walls (plasterboard, PHB partitions, etc.). however, it is generally not recommended to load weak walls with bas-reliefs - the load-bearing base must be stronger than the material of the composition.

Tool

Making a bas-relief will require you to acquire some special tools. Not very expensive, but you can’t count on success without it. First of all, half a rubber ball for kneading the next portion of the working mixture. Everything falls out of it at once if you turn it inside out, and the dried remains fly off in the same way. The bas-relief will be stronger and more beautiful the faster it is formed, i.e. the further the working solution is from the beginning of setting. The kneading ball eliminates wasted time on shaking, scraping, etc. to zero. It is also more convenient to collect the solution in small portions from a ball, because... There are no corners inside. For the same reason, the batch turns out to be more homogeneous (homogeneous), and this is one of the most important factors the ultimate artistry of the bas-relief.

Tools for making bas-reliefs from gypsum

Next, you will need spatulas for modeling - palette knives. Set of 6 pieces (item 1 in the figure) is enough for a start. For forming bunches of grapes, scales, etc. Convex-concave spatulas are also needed. Sets with these are expensive, up to 30 thousand rubles. (!) for a set of 48 items, so amateurs often use spoons of different sizes instead (coffee, tea, dessert, table), with rounded and pointed tips. However, you can’t just create low relief with spoons; the bend of the handle gets in the way. Therefore, for each spatula, take 2 spoons made of aluminum and other ductile metal. One is used as is, it will be a convex spatula. And the other handle at the scoop itself is twisted 180 degrees and bent back, you get a concave spatula.

Note: good convex-concave palette knives come out of disposable plastic spoons and forks. To obtain concave spatulas, their handles are heated with a lighter near the scoop, twisted and bent while heated.

You will also need another palette knife - an artistic knife, pos. 2. Painters use it to clean old paint from the palette, and the sculptors trim the edges, cut off the flash, and create a fine texture. A palette knife can be perfectly replaced with a wide shoe knife.

The next necessary tool is a pastry syringe with nozzles (items 3 and 4) and, possibly, a 20 ml medical syringe without a needle. It is highly advisable to take a confectionery syringe with a trigger drive (item 4). Mixtures for bas-reliefs are not nearly as fluid as cream for cakes, and you need to form twigs, roses, leaves with a syringe (well, we’ve all seen how to decorate cakes) by holding it with both hands; Hold the instrument at the tip with your left hand.

Finally, you will need 2-3 flat painting brushes different sizes and the same number of round ones, the cheapest, made of ox-ear bristles. There is no point in buying expensive squirrel and kolin for bas-relief “for the sake of coolness”, they are too soft. You will also need a very hard and rough children's nylon brush for painting. Use brushes to create texture (see below) and plaster small areas of the bas-relief.

Working with and caring for the tool

Palette knives and brushes are dipped in water before adding the next portion of the mixture. Residues and drips on the working part are the key to spoiled work. After work, the syringe is disassembled and lowered into water in parts; Palette knives and brushes are also placed there. When the instrument becomes acidic, the remaining working materials are thoroughly washed off it. clean water. By the way, a properly cared for pastry syringe after working on the bas-relief is also suitable for use for its intended purpose. All instruments must be stored absolutely clean.

Bas-relief technologies

Creating a bas-relief on the walls in an apartment (or on plasterboard sheets, if the bas-relief is prefabricated) is carried out in stages as follows:

The base surface is cleaned of old finishing, leveled with an accuracy of no worse than 2 mm/m, primed and covered with a base compound or any decorative plaster (see also below). GKL for prefabricated bas-relief does not require leveling;
The background texture is applied to the base coating: with a foam rubber or fleecy roller, by “slapping” with foam rubber or felt, etc. At the same stage, the base is tinted, see below. If the base coating is decorative plaster, texture creation and tinting are not required;
In one way or another (from those indicated above and described below), the relief is formed. During the formation of the relief, tinting is possible similar to that for the base;
If necessary, the relief is painted over the top when completely dry. It is convenient to do surface painting with special paints for gypsum stucco– they are immediately shaded into very thin halftones with a damp sponge. Acrylic paints will give sharper color transitions;
The completely dried relief is covered with styrene-butadiene latex (sold in construction stores). The colors on dried gypsum stucco fade, like on frescoes, and latex treatment restores their color;
After 1-2 weeks, so that the excess latex is completely absorbed and evaporated, the finished relief is varnished with acrylic varnish as needed.

How to tint stucco?

From the video above it is clear that the stucco bas-relief needs to be formed in layers. To tint the base for the relief and, if necessary, its details, apply thin layers, 1-2 mm each. Typically, layers of thick, low-fat sour cream are applied with a brush and smoothed with a palette knife. The batch for each layer is tinted with a color (pigment) for plaster; the deeper, the darker, or vice versa. For example, for the bark of a tree they take a brown pigment of ever-decreasing concentration, and for leaves they add green pigment as they move outward. The next layer is applied to the set but still wet previous one. The texture with shades can be applied right there with a brush or then rubbed with zero-grit sandpaper or, coarsely over large areas, with a metal brush. For more information on tinting gypsum stucco, see the following video.

Video: how to cover a bas-relief on a wall

"Free" plastering

This method is used to create tall floral bas-reliefs or low patterned overlays from disposable paper napkins. From the latter, using an inverted plate or bowl greased with lanolin as a model, you can get a plaster vase, but its practical meaning is more than doubtful. The base solution described above is not used. It is durable, holds its shape well, but its color is not pure white. Also, tinting is not used due to excessive consumption of material; finished elements are painted.

For plastering, a liquid, almost watery solution of architectural plaster is prepared. A model (artificial flower, napkin) is dipped into it and placed on a board covered with plastic film. Flowers are placed in the position in which they will be in the finished composition, see fig. When the solution has set, dip it again, then again, until the model is plastered with a layer 1-1.5 mm thick.

Drying artificial flowers during the gypsum process

Flowers for drying are placed in the same position each time. In this way, flat areas are formed on them, allowing them to be firmly glued to the base. Glue with acrylic plaster of sour cream thickness or acrylic glue. You can also glue PVA.

Plastering on site

This is perhaps the most affordable way make, say, a molded lampshade for a chandelier (see figure) without experience. Plastering the model in place differs from the previous method in that the model is first glued in place and then plastered with a brush. The plaster solution is made thicker, like sour cream. If the stucco is on the ceiling, the layers are applied very thin, translucent, so that there are no drips. Accordingly, up to 10-15 or more layers will be required.

Stucco lampshade for chandelier

The main problem here is the material of the model. They are usually made from polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, polyurethane and other soft plastics. But over time they all decompose. This happens very slowly, but still, after 3-7 years, dirty gray or yellow-brown irremovable stains begin to appear on the stucco. Therefore, models for plastering on site are best sculpted from salt dough, the same dough from which Christmas decorations with your own hands. Salt dough is glued to plaster, stone and other mineral building materials with acrylic glue or any mounting glue. Stucco molding based on non-removable salt dough models retains its appearance for 30-50 years or more.

Reverse casting...

This is the most common way to create stucco with your own hands, allowing you to obtain results of a completely professional appearance and quality without excessive work and skill. The classic procedure for reverse casting from plaster is shown step by step on the left in the figure, pos. a-e. Model 1 made of plaster, plasticine, plastic, etc., or an exemplary product that it is desirable to repeat/replicate, is placed on a flat board 2. Now, in order to facilitate the removal of the mold with the model, the board is covered with film.

Reverse casting from plaster

Then the model is coated with a thin layer of lanolin. It is not advisable to use medical Vaseline; the model may stick to the mold. A plaster and any other porous (wooden, salt dough, stone, etc.) model is coated several times, allowing the lanolin to soak in for an hour or two, until a solid greasy sheen appears on the surface.

Next, the model is coated with a layer of gypsum or alabaster mortar of 3 dough thickness, approx. 1 cm, immediately forming protrusions-anchors 4 and stiffening ribs 5. The set and almost hardened, but still slightly pliable coating is tied with a frame made of soft (annealed) steel wire 6. The branches of the frame are fastened with ties 7 made of thin copper wire.

The next step is coating 9 with a thick cement-sand mortar from M150 in a layer up to 5 or more cm thick, this is already a casting mold. Here you need to remember to form the supporting surface of the mold 8. After a time of gaining 3/4 of the strength with cement-sand mortar (7-20 days, depending on external conditions), the finished mold 10 is separated from the shield using a wedge 11. Well, what if the shield was covered film, the mold is simply removed.

Finally, inner surface The molds are cleaned with a copper brush 12 and, if necessary, defects are corrected with gypsum or alabaster mortar. The burr is removed from the side of the mold 13 and, from its internal edge, a chamfer of approx. 0.7 mm. In a mold without a chamfer, the casting will almost certainly get stuck. Before casting, the inner surface of the mold is coated with lanolin, like a model. The mold is filled with the casting mass layer by layer. As soon as its penultimate layer begins to set, eyes with mustaches are inserted into it (upper right in the figure), by which the casting is then pulled out. For small ebbs, the eyes can be made from paper clips. The last layer is poured when the eyes are already firmly seated in the penultimate layer, i.e. when it is completely hard, but still slightly damp. It is unacceptable to test the firmness of the lugs by shaking them!

Currently for runs up to 15-20 pcs. in the old fashioned way they do not cast from plaster; the mold for such cases is cast from silicone (bottom right). Model prepared as before. case, pour silicone layer by layer, in layers 1-2 mm thick, until a mold thickness of approx. 1.5-2 cm. In addition to technological simplicity, the silicone mold allows you to produce castings with shallow recesses, because it is elastic and stretchable.

Mini gypsum reverse casting

Also, small rounded plaster parts are poured into silicone molds: berries (see figure), acorns, mushrooms, etc., even small fish. In this case, a flask tray is sculpted from plasticine, and the model is also sculpted from plasticine. The silicone is poured into the flask all at once; The flask and the model are not coated with anything. Once the silicone has hardened, the mold is simply torn off and the model is picked out. This is the so-called. mini – reverse casting of plaster.

...and not the other way around

In plaster mini-casting, a removable model is already used; I mean, the model disappears and needs to be made again for the next batch of castings. A silicone mold can also be made for plaster casting using a lost wax model, then from it it will be possible to obtain up to 100-200 or more castings, but convex ones, without depressions. In this case, the flask is made in the form of a box without a bottom made of plywood with a height 2-3 cm greater than the height of the model and a size such that the gap between the flask and the model is at least 1-1.5 cm.

The model is formed from wax on a board covered with film. Then they place the flask and cover the gap at the bottom with plasticine. Next, the model is doused with silicone in layers, as in the previous one. case, and when its last layer hardens, silicone is also added layer by layer along the contour until the mold is filled to the top. As soon as the last layer is poured, fill the plywood bottom. The model is melted with a household hairdryer: the lousiest silicone holds 140 degrees, which a hair dryer does not provide.

Sculpting a bas-relief in place allows, as mentioned above, to achieve maximum artistic effect, but requires certain skills. You can purchase them without enrolling in an evening department at an art university or courses. Just practice with plasticine; The technique is the same, only when working with plaster the time is limited - work with the next section must be completed before it begins to set. Technically, plaster modeling is distinguished between low (flat) and high (round).

The technique of flat plaster modeling is shown in the selection of photos below. The rules here are like this. First, the material of thick dough or rich sour cream is applied in layers. Second, each layer is first smoothed, forming a relief at the same time, and then its contour is trimmed. The third, next layer, as in general in layer-by-layer filling with gypsum, is applied to the set but still wet previous one. Fourth, as the layers build up, they switch to smaller tools. And fifth, in each layer the work is carried out from the thinnest and small parts to thick and rough. In this case, from the leaf teeth to its petiole.

Low plaster casting

It is best to remove branches on bas-reliefs with a pastry syringe or, very thin ones, with a medical syringe. The thickness of the branches is adjusted by pressing harder and weaker on the piston (item 1 in the figure). In this case, the texture is applied with a brush, and the kinks are formed with the tip of a palette knife. The syringe is filled with the base solution, and for painting and for snow-white it is plaster, like a non-removable model in place.

Branches on bas-reliefs made of plaster

Strongly twisting branches (item 2) can be obtained by soaking a cord or twine in a gypsum solution of sour cream thickness, laying it on a board covered with film along the contour, and when dry, gluing it to the wall. If the bas-relief is prefabricated, lay out the cord immediately, it will dry firmly. To obtain branches of decreasing thickness, some of the strands are removed or, conversely, 3-5 branches of twine are twisted at the butt, then 2-3, then left alone. If the cord is visible through the plaster, the branch is gypsumed in place, applying the solution with a brush

Note: branches for bas-relief made of gypsum cord can be soaked several times in tinted mixtures. The desired color is obtained by grouting with sandpaper.

Sharp ribs

You've probably seen sharp ribs in pictures with bas-reliefs. They are formed by folding large and index fingers, and the thumbs - with the fingers of both palms bent back. The height and thickness of the rib is changed by smoothly moving/spreading the fingers (palms) in motion as the rib is formed. Fingers, as in general for hand sculpting, should be slightly damp.

The basis of the round molding is a wire frame anatomically similar to the object, i.e. with the proportions of the object and the location of the branches where the main bones of the skeleton are. The frame in a round figure works in the same way as the skeleton of a living creature. Information about skeletons can be gleaned from any course on the plastic anatomy of humans, animals and birds. Plastic anatomy is a discipline not of medical, but of artistic education. The material there is presented from the point of view of how to sculpt, and not how to treat, and is designed for listeners who are not inclined to the subtleties and rigors of science.

The figure is approx. from 30-40 cm is molded onto the frame as shown in pos. 1 pic. For smaller figures, the frame is simplified (item 2), but respecting the principle of anatomical similarity. In humans, by the way, it is not so complicated: we divide height by 8; 1/8 of it will be the dimensional module of the harmonious human body, pos. 3.

Plaster molding on the frame

The frames of small animal figurines are made in a similar way (items 4a and 4b). It is advisable to reduce the weight of larger figures so that there is less fuss with securing the bas-relief (see below). In this case:

The basic frame (pos. 5a) is made voluminous approximately along the contours of the body minus 1-3 cm for modeling, with the help of additional. branches from the same wire (pos. 5b). Auxiliary branches are attached to the main ones and fastened together with a thin winding copper wire, and even better - soldering.
In a liquid plaster solution, like low-fat kefir, rolls of medical bandage are soaked, as for plaster casting broken limbs (see, for example, the film “The Diamond Arm”), and the frame is wrapped with a plaster bandage, pos. 5th century It is the rolls that need to be soaked: as soon as the bandage begins to peel off poorly from the skein, it means that the plaster has begun to harden and the rest of the roll goes to waste.
Once the plaster frame has completely dried, it is covered in layers with a base solution (tinting can be used), the shape and texture are adjusted with tools and sandpaper, and it is plastered to pure white (if necessary) with a solution of architectural plaster.

Note: for frames of unfolded wings of birds, butterflies, elves, bats, ghouls, dragons, etc. convenient to use thin and small metal mesh. Another option is branches of the main branches, covered with paper or scraps of nylon tights.

Support for figures

Figures for homemade high reliefs are sculpted separately; the location is too difficult. Therefore, each figure must have a flat platform, and on base surface– resp. flat so that the shapes can be glued into place.

How to attach bas-reliefs

The high relief with round figures turns out to be quite heavy. If per 1 sq. dm. its supporting area is more than 1.5-2 kg, the bas-relief needs to be reinforced. Corrugated nails 80-120 mm, driven into plastic dowels, are best suited for this. The attachment points are marked in advance under the thickest places, distributing them as evenly as possible over the area. The nail in the dowel should sit in the wall at least to a depth of 50-60 mm. The protrusion above the wall is 1.5-2 cm, for which the nail driven into the dowel is bitten off. The bas-relief mass above the protruding fastening peg should be at least 1-1.5 cm.

Superbas-relief

And in conclusion - how to try yourself in the elite technique of shadow bas-relief. All you need for this is a piece of plasterboard with a layer of fresh base solution of approx. 0.5 cm and nail 100-150 mm. You need to carefully remove the flash from the edges of the nail tip to get a regular 4-sided pyramid.

We prepare the sample as follows: using a nail with a slight slope, we prick even rows of holes in a checkerboard pattern and close to each other along the still plastic gypsum board coating. The inclination of the nail and the orientation of the edges of its tip relative to the directions of the rows must be maintained as accurately as possible so that the holes are equally asymmetrical.

The next step is to take the sample on a straight line sunlight and, turning this way and that, and in some other way, we observe the play of chiaroscuro. At the same time, we try to imagine how the holes should be pricked to create a changing pattern. And, who knows, maybe you will discover a talent for this rare, but extremely effective art - shadow bas-relief.

Colorful bas-reliefs - three-dimensional stucco paintings - can rarely be seen on the walls and ceilings of private houses and apartments. The cost of handmade sculpting and painting of sculptural panels is too high and the services of craftsmen are not available to everyone. Therefore, an ordinary homeowner who wants to decorate their home in this way has no choice but to make a bas-relief on the wall with their own hands. But since not all people are endowed with artistic abilities, we propose to consider simplified techniques for creating such images.

Casting stucco moldings

To sculpt a bas-relief decoration on an entire wall, shown in the photo below, you need to have drawing skills, since its outline is first applied to the surface. If you are talented in another area, then the solution is simple: make silicone molds, cast plaster decorations in them and stick them on the walls.

Reference. Of course, you can go a simpler route: buy at affordable price decorative molding elements made from modern materials– polyurethane or foam. But it is much more attractive and pleasant to create an individual pattern to suit your taste, suitable for the design of the room.

Task number one is the production of a three-dimensional prototype - a counter-relief, the basis for the future form. As a rule, the wall details of the landscape are various flowers, vine and other elements of nature that look equally good in any room - kitchen, bedroom or living room. A prototype of a pattern you like can be made in the following ways:

mold from plasticine or clay;
carve from wood;
transfer the contours of the picture onto paper and give them relief using gypsum plaster, as shown in the video at the end of the section:
finally, apply ready-made convex images and figures.

This is what a silicone mold looks like

Note. You can involve all family members in sculpting the counter-relief, including a child who knows how to handle plasticine well.

Now you need to purchase silicone with a hardening catalyst, the amount of which depends on the size of the resulting sculpture, and then proceed according to the following instructions:

Make a bath for pouring, the sides of which are 1 cm higher than the prototype. The simplest option– lay the counter-relief on the glass and sculpt plasticine sides around it.
Mix silicone with catalyst in the proportions indicated on the package. To control the quality of mixing, you can add a little food coloring to the solution. Pour it into the bath.
After waiting for it to harden, remove silicone mold and remove the flash around the edges with scissors.
Prepare a solution of gypsum or alabaster (the consistency is like liquid sour cream) and fill the recess in the mold, remove the protruding part with a spatula. Allow 10-15 minutes to harden.
Remove the finished bas-relief, process its edges and glue it to the wall, ceiling or home fireplace.

Pouring the prototype with silicone solution

Advice. If your pattern has a thin and elongated shape, then after pouring the plaster, carefully lay 1-2 pieces of steel wire along the entire length for strength.

How a bas-relief is cast from plaster with your own hands is demonstrated in the video:

Applying a relief image - master class

If you are okay with drawing and have a desire to become a novice sculptor, then you don’t need to make molds to apply the bas-relief. Create a three-dimensional pattern of flowers directly on the wall using this technology:

Clean and level the wall surface. Prime it with primer deep penetration and wait 30 minutes for it to dry.
Prepare gypsum plaster and apply it in an even layer 3-4 mm thick. There is no need to make the surface smooth.
Taking advantage simple tool– with a plastic spoon, spatula and trowel, make the desired pattern. The photo below shows an example - an ornament of blooming roses.
When the plaster has hardened, carefully remove the protruding edges of the resulting petals with a wide spatula. If necessary, refine the drawing with a stationery knife.
Cover the bas-relief with primer. To avoid any gaps, it is recommended to add a little dye to it.

The pattern is formed with a regular spoon

Note. Apply the drawing completely, leaving no empty space. The sizes of the elements do not matter and can be different, the main thing is that the overall picture looks good.

Upon completion, the finished bas-relief remains to be painted with a brush. The ends of the petals can be tinted with a different color using a wide flat brush, as shown in the master class in the video:

We create a full-fledged bas-relief

This is the most complex technique, requiring not only the ability to draw, but also some skills in overlay textured plaster. You need to start work by choosing a picture and a place on the wall where it will be applied in volumetric form. You should correctly assess the illumination of the area, since the bas-relief looks great in the interior thanks to the play of light and shadow. If you can’t find a good place, then make a picture on any wall, but then install 2-3 lamps above it, as shown in the photo.

Advice. When applying a large relief pattern, the master is close to the surface and cannot see how the entire picture changes during the work. Therefore, it is important for a beginning sculptor to learn to evaluate the correctness of actions and often look at the result of their work from the outside.

To create a bas-relief, use the following technique:

Transfer the outlines of the selected pattern to the wall surface. There are 2 ways: simply draw them with a pencil or copy them onto transparent film. The latter is applied to the wall, where a thin layer of putty or Marseilles wax has already been applied, and the contour is squeezed out along the lines with a slightly pointed object.
Give the picture volume by applying gypsum plaster (consistency thick) to the surface. This should be done in several layers and without haste, forming the outline of each part with a spatula or other convenient tool.
Since the solution hardens for a long time (about 3 hours), give the bas-relief clarity by removing excess plaster with a utility knife or narrow spatula. If you removed too much, then correct it with finishing putty.
Once the raised design has hardened, remove any remaining sharp edges and sand the pattern.

Advice. Do not use solutions of pure plaster and alabaster for application; they harden too quickly and do not allow you to adjust the details of the design. Don’t forget to prepare the wall surface – level it and coat it with primer.

When the bas-relief is ready, it can be painted in the desired color (usually white) or painted, creating a real picture. How the master does this is shown in the video:

Conclusion

Creating a bas-relief on your own is not an easy task. Be patient and take time, and be careful while working. Without experience, you should not immediately take on a large image; first practice and apply a small 3D drawing on a board or other flat surface. This will allow you to understand the nuances of forming small parts and master the technique of working with the solution.

Once upon a time, decorating the interior with stucco molding and bas-reliefs was available only to the highest nobility, the rich and large temples. Nowadays, making a bas-relief with your own hands is just a matter of labor and patience. Advances in modern technology make it possible to bypass the technical difficulties of creating stucco at home for people who do not have an artistic education, but who are not devoid of artistic taste and imagination. Create bas-reliefs like those in Fig. Below, it is quite possible for a patient and attentive amateur.

New materials

In addition to the traditional material for stucco - gypsum - do-it-yourself stucco can be created from modern building mixtures with polymer additives; they are often combined under the general name “acrylic plasters”. You can learn how to increase the volume of a bas-relief with construction putty compounds from the video:

Video: sculpting a bas-relief from putty

Hobbyists also use a basic composition of architectural plaster, acrylic plaster and PVA glue in a ratio of 1:1:0.5 by volume. The gypsum and plaster mixture are mixed dry and sealed with water, i.e. add water to the mixture, not the other way around. Bring to a dough consistency like yogurt or low-fat kefir and add PVA, stirring thoroughly. The thickness of the mixture is selected according to the type of work with it, in which case which mixture is needed, see below.

Video: master class bas-relief “Klimt’s Tree”

Note: At one time, the Austrian artist Gustav Klimt created the composition “Tree of Life”. Her style is so unique that the expression “Klimt tree” has become popular.

Reverse bas-relief, or counter-relief (bottom center in the top figure) is no longer stucco, but stone carving (the contours are cut in depth), which is technically much more complex. Therefore, we only note that the counter-relief needs bright and sharp oblique light, because the image actually draws a shadow. There is also a special type of bas-relief - shadow, lower right, where the entire pattern is formed by shadows from small and minute protrusions and depressions of a certain shape. When the direction and angle of incidence of light changes, the pattern changes, even changing facial expressions throughout the day. Shadow bas-relief is the highest art and, alas, short-lived: the protrusions and depressions become clogged and lose their shape when cleaned. The drawing fades, blurs, disappears.

Bas-relief techniques

Stucco molding on the wall at home can be done in one of the following ways, in order of increasing technical complexity:

Plastering of free ones, i.e. models that were not initially fixed to the supporting surface and cannot be removed;
Plastering of non-removable models on the supporting surface. These methods are especially good for beginners, because... allow you to receive the corresponding high and low relief, without risking the need to redo the whole work again in case of failure;
Reverse casting from plaster according to the model to be removed. The method is somewhat more labor-intensive, but also suitable for beginners, because... You can pore over the model as much as you like until it is perfect. In addition, in one mold (form, mold) made according to a model, up to 20-30 identical products can be cast at home;
Artistic plaster stucco in place, i.e. directly on the supporting surface. It requires thorough skills, but makes it possible to create large relief panels covering the entire wall, with contours around corners, going to the ceiling, and complete freedom of creative expression.

In place or on a sheet?

It is possible to make a bas-relief using methods 2-4 both locally and in parts on a table or floor. An excellent basis for fragments of prefabricated bas-relief is plasterboard sheet, plasterboard. It is prepared as a base surface (see below), parts of the overall picture or complete compositions are drawn out on separate sheets or pieces of the desired shape (see figure), and mounted on a leveled wall.

Tool

Note: good convex-concave palette knives come out of disposable plastic spoons and forks. To obtain concave spatulas, their handles are heated with a lighter near the scoop, twisted and bent while heated.

You will also need another palette knife - an artistic knife, pos. 2. Painters use it to clean off old paint from the palette, and sculptors trim the edges, cut off the flash, and create a fine texture. A palette knife can be perfectly replaced with a wide shoe knife.

Finally, you will need 2-3 flat painting brushes of different sizes and the same number of round, cheapest, ox-ear bristles. There is no point in buying expensive squirrel and kolin for bas-relief “for the sake of coolness”, they are too soft. You will also need a very hard and rough children's nylon brush for painting. Use brushes to create texture (see below) and plaster small areas of the bas-relief.

Working with and caring for the tool

Palette knives and brushes are dipped in water before adding the next portion of the mixture. Residues and drips on the working part are the key to spoiled work. After work, the syringe is disassembled and lowered into water in parts; Palette knives and brushes are also placed there. When the instrument becomes acidic, the remaining working materials are thoroughly washed off with clean water. By the way, a properly cared for pastry syringe after working on the bas-relief is also suitable for use for its intended purpose. All instruments must be stored absolutely clean.

Bas-relief technologies

Creating a bas-relief on the walls in an apartment (or on plasterboard sheets, if the bas-relief is prefabricated) is carried out in stages as follows:

The base surface is cleaned of old finishing, leveled with an accuracy of no worse than 2 mm/m, primed and covered with a base compound or any decorative plaster (see also below). GKL for prefabricated bas-relief does not require leveling;
The background texture is applied to the base coating: with a foam rubber or fleecy roller, by “slapping” with foam rubber or felt, etc. At the same stage, the base is tinted, see below. If the base coating is decorative plaster, texture creation and tinting are not required;
In one way or another (from those indicated above and described below), the relief is formed. During the formation of the relief, tinting is possible similar to that for the base;
If necessary, the relief is painted over the top when completely dry. It is convenient to do surface painting with special paints for gypsum stucco - they are immediately shaded into very subtle halftones with a damp sponge. Acrylic paints will give sharper color transitions;
The completely dried relief is covered with styrene-butadiene latex (sold in construction stores). The colors on dried gypsum stucco fade, like on frescoes, and latex treatment restores their color;
After 1-2 weeks, so that the excess latex is completely absorbed and evaporated, the finished relief is varnished with acrylic varnish as needed.

How to tint stucco?

Video: how to cover a bas-relief on a wall

"Free" plastering

For plastering, a liquid, almost watery solution of architectural plaster is prepared. A model (an artificial flower, a napkin) is dipped into it and placed on a board covered with plastic film. Flowers are placed in the position in which they will be in the finished composition, see fig. When the solution has set, dip it again, then again, until the model is plastered with a layer 1-1.5 mm thick.

Plastering on site

This is perhaps the most accessible way to make, say, a molded lampshade for a chandelier (see figure) without experience. Plastering the model in place differs from the previous method in that the model is first glued in place and then plastered with a brush. The plaster solution is made thicker, like sour cream. If the stucco is on the ceiling, the layers are applied very thin, translucent, so that there are no drips. Accordingly, up to 10-15 or more layers will be required.

The main problem here is the material of the model. They are usually made from polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, polyurethane and other soft plastics. But over time they all decompose. This happens very slowly, but still, after 3-7 years, dirty gray or yellow-brown irremovable stains begin to appear on the stucco. Therefore, it is best to sculpt models for on-site plastering from salted dough, the same dough from which you make your own Christmas tree decorations. Salt dough is glued to plaster, stone and other mineral building materials with acrylic glue or any mounting glue. Stucco molding based on non-removable salt dough models retains its appearance for 30-50 years or more.

Reverse casting...

Finally, the inner surface of the mold is cleaned with a copper brush 12 and, if necessary, defects are corrected with gypsum or alabaster mortar. The burr is removed from the side of the mold 13 and, from its internal edge, a chamfer of approx. 0.7 mm. In a mold without a chamfer, the casting will almost certainly get stuck. Before casting, the inner surface of the mold is coated with lanolin, like a model. The mold is filled with the casting mass layer by layer. As soon as its penultimate layer begins to set, eyes with mustaches are inserted into it (upper right in the figure), by which the casting is then pulled out. For small ebbs, the eyes can be made from paper clips. The last layer is poured when the eyes are already firmly seated in the penultimate layer, i.e. when it is completely hard, but still slightly damp. It is unacceptable to test the firmness of the lugs by shaking them!

...and not the other way around

Modeling

Flat

The technique of flat plaster modeling is shown in the selection of photos below. The rules here are like this. First, the material of thick dough or rich sour cream is applied in layers. Second, each layer is first smoothed, forming a relief at the same time, and then its contour is trimmed. The third, next layer, as in general in layer-by-layer filling with gypsum, is applied to the set but still wet previous one. Fourth, as the layers build up, they switch to smaller tools. And fifth, in each layer the work is carried out from the thinnest and smallest details to the thickest and roughest. In this case, from the leaf teeth to its petiole.

About branches

Note: branches for bas-relief made of gypsum cord can be soaked several times in tinted mixtures. The desired color is obtained by grouting with sandpaper.

Sharp ribs

You've probably seen sharp ribs in pictures with bas-reliefs. They are formed by folding the thumb and forefinger, and the thumbs by folding the fingers of both palms bent back. The height and thickness of the rib is changed by smoothly moving/spreading the fingers (palms) in motion as the rib is formed. Fingers, as in general for hand sculpting, should be slightly damp.

Round

The basic frame (pos. 5a) is made voluminous approximately along the contours of the body minus 1-3 cm for modeling, with the help of additional. branches from the same wire (pos. 5b). Auxiliary branches are attached to the main ones and fastened together by winding thin copper wire, or even better - by soldering.
In a liquid plaster solution, like low-fat kefir, rolls of medical bandage are soaked, as for plaster casting broken limbs (see, for example, the film “The Diamond Arm”), and the frame is wrapped with a plaster bandage, pos. 5th century It is the rolls that need to be soaked: as soon as the bandage begins to peel off poorly from the skein, it means that the plaster has begun to harden and the rest of the roll goes to waste.
Once the plaster frame has completely dried, it is covered in layers with a base solution (tinting can be used), the shape and texture are adjusted with tools and sandpaper, and it is plastered to pure white (if necessary) with a solution of architectural plaster.

Note: for frames of unfolded wings of birds, butterflies, elves, bats, ghouls, dragons, etc. It is convenient to use thin and fine metal mesh. Another option is branches of the main branches, covered with paper or scraps of nylon tights.

Support for figures

Figures for homemade high reliefs are sculpted separately; the location is too difficult. Therefore, each figure must have a flat area, and on the base surface, respectively. flat so that the shapes can be glued into place.

How to attach bas-reliefs

Superbas-relief

Studying various materials related to the renovation and design of premises, you can notice the fact that paints and wallpapers are used less and less by craftsmen to decorate walls in residential premises. And this is not surprising, since any finishing material cannot guarantee the uniqueness of the design, since its analogues can also be found among the owners of other houses and apartments. And the design of walls made by hand is almost impossible to reproduce with accuracy, which can guarantee the originality of the design.

However, the services of high-class decorators and decorators are often unaffordable. Then you can do it differently by trying decorative design walls with your own hands. For creating original style Bas-relief fits perfectly.

So how is it done? The materials required for this are not the cheapest, since it requires primers and putties that are very High Quality And wallpaper glue. Such costs are primarily necessary to prevent the imminent loss of the results of the work performed.

Often, for the purpose of decorating walls, ready-made slabs are used, which are made independently or ordered from artists. Such ready-made slabs are installed immediately. But sometimes the bas-relief is made directly on the wall, technically representing an element decorative plaster, and more specifically, stucco molding monolithic with it. It, unlike other types of design, for example, decorative painting, does not require additional color highlighting. And without highlighting with color, a three-dimensional pattern appears due to the play of correctly arranged light artificial lighting. This gives the home owner the opportunity to create accents on decorative elements at the specific time he needs, just by turning on the lighting.

Along with decorative functions, bas-reliefs can also perfectly cope with various types of functional tasks. For example, they allow you to disguise surface unevenness, decorate engineering Communication, visually distort the space at the request of the owners, and also create smooth transitions between different areas of the room.

With the right combination of decorative painting and volumetric relief, you can create truly incredible and original decorative effects. But, nevertheless, despite the numerous advantages, the described technique is not a fairly popular method of decoration. This is due to the high cost of such volumetric decoration.

Often, unknowing people make the mistake of thinking that a bas-relief is a prefabricated structure cast from plaster, but in reality this type of decoration is done by hand, so it is original and exclusive. Thus, arranging beautiful images requires considerable effort. One way or another, if you want, you can do all the work yourself.

Required materials and tools

Approximate list necessary tools and materials for creating three-dimensional images are as follows:

putty;
putty knife;
glue;
acrylic paints;
pencil; brushes of different sizes;
cutter;
slats;
acrylic contour for stained glass and others.

Preparation for execution

Before you start self-creation, you must first choose a wall that is convenient for this and needs to be prepared. It must be thoroughly cleaned of old coatings, primed and dried.

After the wall has been selected and cleaned, and the surface is covered with putty, which has already dried, an image is drawn on it, which is planned to be made using the bas-relief technique.

The image that is planned to be placed on the wall is pre-selected. A sketch is made with a pencil. Don't try to complete complex drawings the first time. It is better to practice your skills by making images of vegetation, stylized birds and other not too complex figures. If you have no ability for artistic depiction, then you can use the familiar technique of drawing an image using cells. In this case, the area on the wall and the drawing are drawn into squares, into which all the lines from the drawing on the sketch are transferred in turn. When redrawing details, you need to remember to respect the scale of the image.

It is not necessary to immediately draw the entire picture, but rather just draw the contours and outlines of the objects and personalities depicted on the wall.

Execution technology

Bas-relief can be created from various materials, such as stone, clay, gypsum plaster, plaster, etc. However, it is easier to work with plaster or plaster at home.

The execution technology consists of the following stages:

A box is assembled from four plywood slats, which looks more like a tray. Its size and height must correspond to the slab of the future relief, since it is in it that the production will be carried out.
The form is covered with plastic film. It must be straightened so that there are as few folds as possible.
Mix the mixture with gypsum, plaster or cement-sand mixture in accordance with the instructions and pour it into the mold. The mixture can also be poured into cardboard box, for example, a candy box lined with film or in a frame, which is placed on glass and glued with tape.
If you plan to make a high relief, then you can insert wire reinforcement into the slab, which will subsequently be located inside the relief figures, firmly connecting them and the base.
Next, you should wait until the mixture initially sets. Cement requires no more than 10-12 hours, otherwise the next concrete layers will not adhere to the base. When using alabaster, this moment occurs during hardening and heating of the hardened surface, which indicates the process chemical reaction inside the stove. It can be removed from the mold at this stage. The surface on the side of the laid film will be polished, and the opposite surface, on the contrary, will be rough.
Then they begin to create the image by sculpting, drawing on the slab the outline of the planned three-dimensional image for the bas-relief. Then they begin to increase the volume inside the circuit with a newly mixed mixture. It is advisable to do this in several steps so that each subsequent layer can slightly set and harden. Working with alabaster is quite simple, as its excess is easy to cut off with a simple knife while it is wet, adjusting the material using chisels and cutters designed for wood carving. Plus, it's easy to level using sandpaper. Once alabaster or plaster has dried, it will be much more difficult to cut and sand its surface.
If it is necessary to make in-depth images, there are two methods: to deepen the drawing, selecting a certain amount of material using chisels and cutters, or to build up a background layer around the images, after which they will be in the recess, and then sand the background to a flat surface. You can wet the plate while working. The sculpting method is more economical than carving.
Another way to create an image is to stick pre-cast parts onto a base plate or wall, covering the seams between them with plaster and then cleaning them with sandpaper.

The most effective and at the same time complex method is the reverse casting method, invented by majolica masters who sold “sea” plates in the 17th century. At the same time, they took natural decorative elements, for example, shells, starfish, crayfish shells, dried fish, covered all the cracks and cracks between the background and the decoration, smeared it all with oil, pouring alabaster on top. After the slab had hardened, it was removed from the mold, and on its surface front side an in-depth image (counter-relief) was imprinted, which fully reflected the features of the decor. Such a slab could subsequently be used as a decoration or a mold, by casting new tiles in it. At the same time, the images of all the tiles were the same and looked “lifelike.”

Decor installation

In principle, wall installation is similar to standard installation. ceramic tiles. Installation is carried out using tile adhesive. The procedure for attaching plaster, stone, plastic or ceramic bas-reliefs is practically no different. When working, tile adhesive, a glue container, a notched trowel, an emery board, a spatula, a plumb line and a level are used (sometimes it is also necessary to use a drill, a screwdriver, and hardware).

Installation is done as follows:

The wall is leveled and a place is prepared for installing the slab. To do this, you can use beacon slats attached to the wall.
The slab is installed using plumb lines on the glue. You can apply glue to both the stove and the wall. If the slab is heavy, then underneath the slab it is advisable to additionally install small pins in the holes for support, which should protrude on the wall surface by a maximum of 2/3 of the thickness of the slab.
If the slab is thick, then sometimes it is necessary to select a “nest” in the wall for it, which is plastered, leveling the surface of the place where the slab and wall are glued. Then the bas-relief is installed at the required height, and the seam between the surface and the decor is closed using plaster.
In the case of large and heavy facing slabs and large patterns, thick slabs have to be glued directly to the wall, sacrificing the area of the room. In such cases, additional holes may be provided in the slabs for anchors installed with washers that secure the slab to the wall, or reinforcement elements embedded in the slab, mounted with glue in holes pre-drilled for them.
Next, the seams between the slabs and the holes in the slabs and in the images are covered with appropriate grout, for example, putty or alabaster, and cleaned.
The finished bas-relief is sanded, correcting the pattern, and the surface is impregnated with a primer or varnished. After this, the surface is painted to strengthen the surface and give it water-repellent properties, as well as enhance the decorative effect.

Bas-reliefs can be the color of the material, creating a pattern due to the play of chiaroscuro, or they can be painted. They can cover the entire wall completely or partially, or act as a decorative insert-picture.

This type of counter-relief is usually used on surfaces with a large area. With this technique, the design is transferred to the wall and then the carving is made. various depths directly on the plaster wall.

The recesses of the lines and spots of the bas-relief pattern are sometimes made to the smallest fractions of a millimeter. Then, under standard lighting, the wall looks flat, however, when using side lighting, the image becomes clearly visible on it.

Using the cord

Another fairly simple way to make a bas-relief of walls indoors with your own hands is to use a regular clothesline and plaster mortar. An image is applied to a piece of fiberboard or foam plastic, then a rope soaked in a plaster solution is laid according to the drawn lines. After the product has dried, the entire surface and its convexities are treated with gypsum mortar using a brush. This ready-made decor can be used for decoration by gluing it to the wall. The same method can be used to decorate furniture, for example, garden bench. In this case, there is no need to decorate the object with tiles, but simply lay the bench in a convenient way, first making a bas-relief on one side, and after it dries, perform the same actions on the other side. Afterwards, the bench must be painted to look like metal or stone.

Using stencils

When decorating from stencils, the image of the future bas-relief is transferred to penofol and cut out. Gypsum fiber sheet the required size is covered with a primer, on top of which a figure cut out of penofol is placed. If the bas-relief is made on the basis of a stencil directly on the wall, then the same algorithm is used, but the stencil, that is, a figure made of foam foam, is glued directly to the wall, wiping out irregularities and voids with putty. You can also sculpt smaller elements on a stencil, for example, using salted dough, which holds its shape perfectly and does not dry out quickly, allowing time for correction.

Completing the processing process

When the required image is achieved, the bas-relief is thoroughly cleaned of dust and treated with a primer using an appropriate brush. Then comes the painting. If the use of several colors is not intended, it is recommended to take white paint two shades on a water-based base, and cover with lighter paint the parts that need to be highlighted and which carry the main stylistic load. It is advisable to paint using a regular sponge rather than a brush to avoid the formation of unsightly stripes that change the dynamics of the design. Thus, the decoration can be considered ready.

Most people want to make renovations in their apartment something special and unique. First of all, this concerns wall decoration. After all, by painting the walls or covering them with wallpaper, you are unlikely to make such a finish unique and there will probably be apartments, if not the same, then very similar finishing materials. And in general, standard finishing methods have already become boring. The solution in this situation would be a bas-relief on the wall.

Such a three-dimensional image will give the apartment that much-desired zest, because this is handmade and each work is unique. Experts in this matter can create a real masterpiece on the wall. However, their services are not affordable for everyone. In this case, you can make a bas-relief on the wall with your own hands.

In addition to decorative functions, a bas-relief on the wall can hide irregularities or decorate utility lines in an original way. But, even with such numerous advantages, it is not a popular finishing option, since even if done independently, not everyone can afford it. And creating a large three-dimensional drawing is not so easy, especially for a person who does not have special creative skills. However, it's definitely worth a try.

Materials for work

To create a bas-relief with your own hands, you only need quality materials. Basically it's putty, primer and glue. The strength and durability of the bas-relief depends on the quality of materials. In addition to creating volume directly on the wall, ready-made slabs are also used. They are made independently or ordered from craftsmen and installed on the walls. Distinctive feature bas-relief from other variants of textured plaster is that the volume is created due to light and shadow. So painting the bas-relief itself is not necessary.

All you need to make a bas-relief on the wall with your own hands is:

Primer
Putty (can be replaced with plaster)
Paints and brushes (as needed)
PVA glue
Adhesive for gypsum panels
Pencil
Cutter, trowels

Technology for creating bas-relief - option 1

The first option for creating a three-dimensional image is the production of three-dimensional slabs and subsequent mounting on the wall.

We tried to make the entire process of creating a bas-relief with our own hands as simple as possible, but at the same time, detailed instructions. All you have to do is follow the steps below step by step.

1. A form is assembled from plywood slats into which the base solution will then be poured. The form can be created from any materials, the height of the walls should be no more than 3-4 cm. If you have a small image, then you can use a candy box as a form, the main thing is that there is enough area of the form for the image.

2. The form is covered with plastic film. Be careful to ensure that this film has a minimum of wrinkles. Most often, the solution is prepared on the basis of gypsum or plaster, but sometimes craftsmen add PVA glue to this mixture. Using a drill with an attachment or a construction mixer, you need to stir the mixture until you obtain the consistency of liquid sour cream. The solution is poured into the mold and left to dry for 10-12 hours.

3. Next, using a pencil, you should draw the planned image on a large canvas of paper. If the image is too large, it can be composed of several parts. Don't try to draw right away complex shapes, if you have no artistic skills. It's better to start with simple silhouettes and try to add details as you draw. You can also print the design you like using a printer.

4. Now take a transparent film, apply it to the drawing and transfer the image onto it. Be careful not to tear the material under the pressure of the pen or pencil.

5. A layer of putty must be applied to the previously prepared slab and leveled. Then wait 15-20 minutes until it hardens a little and you can start outlining the relief. Place the film stencil on the putty layer and trace all the contours and details again with a hard pencil. This way you will get a detailed relief image already on the surface of the putty.

6. This stage is the most labor-intensive, since right now the work is being done to create volume. Putty is applied layer by layer and cut with various trowels. Also, after applying each layer, they need to be sanded. After you have completely formed a three-dimensional pattern, the slab can be transferred to the wall.

7. Before you begin installing the bas-relief on the wall, it must be prepared. To do this, it needs to be cleaned of the old finish, and existing unevenness must be corrected with putty, carefully leveling the surface. At the site of the future slab, you need to knock out a “nest” for it. The depth and dimensions of the nest must correspond to the thickness and dimensions of the slab. The entire surface is treated with a primer, now it needs to be left to dry.

8. The final stage is to install the slab with a bas-relief pattern into the “nest”. To do this, “liquid nails” or “dragon” glue is applied to the wall and the slab (but it is better to select a special glue for plaster), the slab is inserted into the wall, and the gaps between the slab and the walls are sealed with putty. At the end, using the same putty, surface defects are corrected; if necessary, the bas-relief on the wall is painted with water-based or acrylic paints.

In this way, you can create various three-dimensional patterns and paintings.

Creating a bas-relief on the wall - option 2

The previous option for creating a three-dimensional image from plaster is only suitable for small paintings, but what if the required image is quite large? After all, the gypsum blank in this case is quite heavy and attaching it to the wall will not be easy. In this case, you can create a bas-relief directly on the wall using stencil technology. As in the previous case, we will need all the same materials, as well as the selected stencil.

So, how to make a bas-relief on the wall with your own hands? First you need to attach the stencil to the wall. As a stencil, you can use ready-made ones, sold in construction hypermarkets and craft stores. Or you can cut it out of thick cardboard yourself.

Let us remind you that the wall must be primed before applying the bas-relief.

Scooping a small amount of putty onto a trowel or spatula, apply images to the slots, smoothing them thoroughly. The layer thickness is from 0.5 to 2 cm, depending on the desired volume of the pattern.

When the entire stencil is filled, it can be removed from the wall. You will get a three-dimensional image that needs to be corrected:

While the plaster is not dry, using a trowel and various brushes we add the desired volume to our drawing - we draw veins in petals and plants, feathers in birds, create the texture of wood, etc.

Now you need to wait until the plaster dries - about 12 hours. Then, if necessary, sand the edges of the pattern with sandpaper.

If desired, a three-dimensional plaster pattern on the wall can be left white, because all the beauty of the bas-relief is in its volume. But it can also be painted (and dusted and primed before painting).

As you can see, creating a bas-relief on the wall with your own hands is not so difficult. And if you involve craftsmen in the work, you can get a real work of art. We hope this article was useful to you, happy repairs!