Sewage system in the apartment. Sewerage in an apartment - features of self-replacement of the system

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To install a sewer system, you need a sewerage diagram in the apartment, which involves the arrangement of a non-pressure structure. In it, wastewater and sewage move through an inclined pipeline towards the sewer riser. The lowest point of waste water discharge in an apartment is considered to be the tee entering the building's riser.

IN residential buildings, built three decades ago, the bathroom and toilet are located next to the kitchen area. With this version of the sewer system, wastewater is collected starting from the kitchen, then it passes through the toilet and bathroom and is ultimately sent to the common house riser. Due to the fact that its upper part faces the roof, the entire sewerage system has good ventilation.

How is sewerage installed in an apartment building?

It is at these slopes of the sewer pipeline that high-quality self-cleaning of its internal surfaces occurs. In addition to the slope great importance For efficient work sewer system has the degree to which the pipes are filled with liquid. If the slope is excessive, the speed of movement of wastewater increases and at the same time the filling capacity decreases. In turn, reducing the angle leads to the opposite effect. In both cases, the result of self-cleaning worsens. It is necessary to understand how sewerage works before starting any repair work.

That is why the sewerage scheme in the apartment provides only two ways to lay the network:

• at a slope of 2-3%;
• strictly vertical.

Will apply vertical wiring sewerage in an apartment when the optimal slope of the sewer pipe is not able to ensure that the pipes reach the height of the plumbing fixture.

Do-it-yourself sewerage installation in an apartment

Typically, do-it-yourself sewerage installation in an apartment is done as follows:

• a toilet is connected to the main pipeline branch with a diameter of 100 millimeters;
• the first of the main lines (its diameter is 50 millimeters) is connected to devices located in the toilet and bathroom - this is a bathtub, a shower stall, washing machine, wash basin;
• kitchen plumbing is connected to the second main branch with a diameter of 50 millimeters, or rather - dishwasher and a sink.

Connection diagram for plumbing fixtures

Since the pipes are routed with a uniform upward slope, the further the plumbing fixtures are located from the riser, the higher the drain needs to be raised relative to the entry point. Sometimes when performing repairs it is necessary to replace the sewer riser in an apartment. It's better to do it right away. than having to redo all the work later.

In order for drainage to be effective in an apartment, you need to know how to properly install a sewer system in an apartment and connect plumbing fixtures. For example, you need to connect a kitchen sink and sinks at a height of 50-60 centimeters from the floor surface, while there is no need to lift the plumbing fixtures, since the drains in it are located at a distance of 70-80 centimeters from the plane on which they are installed.

Types of sewer pipes

• polyethylene;
• polypropylene (read: " ");
• polyvinyl chloride.

Features of sewer pipe installation

In this case, the pipe is inserted to the final stop and then moved back approximately 10-15 millimeters. As a result, a damper gap is formed at the junction to compensate for the thermal expansion of the product.

When laying out the sewer system, it is advisable not to make right angle turns. Experts recommend using two 1350 corner fittings instead of one 900 corner fitting, which will significantly reduce the possibility of blockages and will facilitate the smooth movement of drains.

Purpose of a water seal in a sewer system

To connect kitchen sinks, shower stalls, bathtubs and sinks to the sewer system use siphons, which have dual functions:

• water seal;
• connecting element between the pipe and the plumbing fixture.

The solution to the question of how to make a sewer system in an apartment relates to important stage preparations for the repair work. But for this you need to have a clear understanding of how the sewer system functions during its operation.

Often, in the process of renovating an apartment, they do not only new finishing walls, floors and ceilings, but also the transfer of plumbing fixtures - sinks, bathtubs, washbasins or showers. And this, in turn, leads to the re-routing of the apartment sewer system, changing the network configuration, and replacing the elements from which the sewer system is installed.

Since the project is not always carried out by specialists before this design organization. Therefore, the transfer of networks may lead to a violation of current sanitary and construction standards that apply to sewerage installations.

To prevent this, you should adhere to the recommendations set out in SNiP.

Let's find out in this article how to make a sewer system in an apartment to ensure the removal of wastewater from sanitary fixtures and not violate current standards.

Principles of sewerage design

The main condition for the reliable operation of any sewer network is the correctly selected diameter and slope of the pipelines. It would seem - what could be simpler? I took bigger pipes, that's all. But this is not entirely true.

To wastewater along with the contaminants they contain, move freely through the pipes, the correct slope should be chosen. The slope is directly related to the diameter of the pipe. And the diameter of the pipe is dictated by the flow of wastewater.

If the selected sewer diameter turns out to be larger than required, the requirements for filling the pipeline and non-silting speed of drainage will not be met, which can over time lead to the appearance of silt deposits inside the pipe, which cause subsequent blockage.

In turn, a diameter less than the required one can lead to the fact that the water simply will not have time to leave, since the pipe will not be able to pass the required volume of water.

The fillability of pipes with water with a diameter of up to 200 mm should be approximately 0.6. Filling capacity is defined as the ratio of the liquid height to the pipe diameter (h/d):

Sewage diameters and slopes

In order not to rack our brains every time when connecting each sink or bathtub, we decided that for laying the in-house sewer system it is enough to use certain diameters and slopes, which are guaranteed to meet all the requirements for the sewer system - its slopes and diameter.

These diameters and slopes directly depend on the type of plumbing equipment that is connected to the sewer network and the per second costs from them. All these costs can be found in Table A.1 of Appendix A SP 30.13330.2012 “Internal water supply and sewerage of buildings”.

Thus, the highest second flow that sewer pipes in a residential building should be able to pass is approximately 1.6 l/s. This is the flow rate at which the drains move when you flush the toilet. To pass such a flow, pipes with an internal diameter of 100 mm are used.

From sinks, washbasins and shower cabins the costs are much lower and for their disposal, as a rule, pipes with a diameter of 40-50 mm are sufficient.

In general, for laying sewerage in an apartment, you can use the slopes and diameters shown in the table below:

A slope of 0.02 means that when laid, for every 100 cm of its length the pipe will drop by 2 cm. And with a slope of 0.035, for every meter of pipe the drop will be 3.5 cm.

If you stick to these diameters and slopes, you can't go wrong.

In general, sometimes it is convenient to use minimum slopes, which are very easy to determine. To do this, simply divide the unit by the internal diameter of the pipe in millimeters. In this way, you can quickly estimate offhand how much the sewer pipe will go down during installation in order to understand at what level to start laying. For example, a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm can be laid with a minimum slope of 1/200 = 0.005.

You can watch a video on how to lay a sewer with the required slope below:

Requirements for laying sewerage

It has already been said above that each section sewer pipes must ensure the passage of necessary expenses and have a certain slope. But there are still some sewer installation requirements that you should know before starting the sewer project.

One of the main rules (clause 8.2.2. SP 30.13330.2012) states the following:
“Sections of the sewer network should be laid in a straight line. Changing the direction of laying is done using special connecting parts.”

That is, you cannot take and bend, for example, a polymer pipe, simply by heating it with a burner. All changes in the direction of laying must be carried out using bends, half-bends, tees, and crosses.

Another rule (clause 8.2.5. SP 30.13330.2012) tells us that:
“Bilateral connection of drain pipes from bathtubs to one riser at the same level is allowed only with the use of oblique crosses. Connect sanitary fixtures located in different apartments on the same floor, to the same pipeline is not allowed.”

That is, in other words, you can connect the drain pipes from the kitchen appliances and from the bathroom plumbing to one riser, but for this you will need to use an oblique cross. A straight cross will not work here.

But it will no longer be possible to connect plumbing fixtures located in different apartments to one riser. And in fact, suddenly a blockage occurs, you will need to quickly take measures to clear it, but you won’t be able to get to the place of the blockage, since the owner of the apartment has simply left somewhere.

In addition to these requirements, when designing indoor sewage systems, the following rules should be taken into account:

1. Sewerage is allowed to be laid openly in underground, technical floors, as well as in special premises for laying utility networks. In other cases, sewer pipes must be laid hidden in special attached boxes (for example, in plasterboard boxes), in false ceilings, under baseboards in the floor, in special shafts and grooves.
2. To provide fire safety SNiP prescribes the laying of sewer pipes from polymer materials hidden behind structures whose flammability level is not lower than G2.
3. Passages of sewer risers through interfloor ceilings should be done with cement mortar covering the entire thickness of the floor, and above the floor - to a height of 8-10 cm.

It seems that no questions should arise here, since each of the requirements is quite reasonable and is aimed at ensuring sanitary and fire safety standards in the premises.

Just below you can watch a video on how to make a pipe box in the bathroom and tile it:

Where can you not install sewerage in a residential area?

In accordance with current standards SNiP installation of sewerage is not allowed under the ceiling, in the walls and in the floor living rooms, kitchens and sleeping areas. Therefore, before installing a sewer system in an apartment, you should make sure that the wiring diagram excludes network passages that are prohibited for its installation.

As a rule, when installing sewerage in an apartment, this requirement is rarely violated. And in fact, who would even think of laying a sewer under the ceiling in the bedroom or living room?

But now, if you own own home, to comply with this rule it is necessary in advance at the stage architectural project layouts, arrange the rooms so that the rooms are above the rooms, and the bathrooms and baths are above the bathrooms and bathrooms.

Sewerage outlets for residential and public premises

If there are residential apartments and public premises (post office, store, etc.) in the same building, the sewer outlets for them must be arranged separately.

At enterprises, it is not allowed to connect industrial sewerage systems transporting wastewater containing flammable and flammable liquids to the domestic sewerage network and drains.

But this rule is unlikely to be useful to you when relaying pipes inside your home. However, this requirement is very relevant where flammable liquids are discharged. In addition, this requirement results in a ban on flushing various solvents (acetone, gasoline, etc.) into the toilet during repairs

Where are sewer inspections and cleanings installed?

Clogging of the sewer during its operation is not such a rare thing, and therefore, in order to be able to quickly clean the internal sewer network, it is necessary to install special elements - cleaning and revisions.

The inspection differs from the cleaning in that it is installed on a sewer riser, while the cleaning is installed on a horizontal section of the outlet pipeline. They are small hatches directly on the sewer pipe, closed with a lid held in place with bolts (on cast iron pipes) or threads (on plastic pipelines).

If a blockage occurs, the plumber will need to open the revision or clean it out and destroy it with a plumbing cable:

Inspections and cleanings are not carried out at random, but in strictly defined places. The installation locations for cleaning and inspection are listed in clause 8.2.23. SP 30.13330.2012:

• on risers, if there are no indentations on them - in the lower and upper floors, and in the presence of indentations - also in the floors located above the indentations;
• in residential buildings with a height of 5 floors or more - at least every three floors;
• at the beginning of sections (along the movement of wastewater) of drain pipes when the number of connected devices is 3 or more, under which there are no cleaning devices;
• at network turns - when changing the direction of movement of wastewater, if sections of the pipeline cannot be cleaned through other sections;
• in passage tunnels.

As you can see, the installation locations for cleaning and inspection allow for the use of a short length of plumbing cable for cleaning, located in close proximity to places of possible blockage - before turns and indentations.

The distance between inspections and sewer cleanings is determined according to Table 4 of SP 30.13330.2012:

Inspections and cleanings are installed so that there is access to them easy access. If the network is laid under the ceiling, then the cleaning should be carried out to the floor above, and if the network goes under the floor, the inspection hatch is located in a small recess in the floor, closed by a lid (hatch).

Installation of hatches for sewerage maintenance

In order to provide access to the sewerage system for its maintenance, hatches should be installed in certain places to allow access to cleanings and inspections if necessary (clause 8.2.13. SP 30.13330.2012). The size of the hatch should be no more than 0.1 square meters.

Installing plumbing fixtures in the basement

In some cases, it may be necessary to install a sink or other plumbing fixture in the basement or ground floor. In this case, the side of the plumbing fixture is lower than the neck of the hatch sewer well and if it floods, the basement may be filled with sewage.

To prevent this from happening, such plumbing fixtures are connected to a separate sewerage system that is not connected to the sewerage system of the upper premises, and an automated system is installed at the outlet. shut-off valves, which, in the event of flooding, closes the outlet, preventing wastewater from entering it from the external network and flooding the basement.

Instead of an electric valve, you can install a pump that will turn on when water is used and pump the wastewater to a higher level, as shown in the figure below:

Length of sewer outlet to first well

If you own your own home, you should know that maximum distance from cleaning to the axis of the first well in the direction of movement of wastewater in the external sewer network is regulated by the values ​​​​given in Table 5 of SP 30.13330.2012:

Why do you need a water seal?

To prevent the stench from the sewer network from penetrating inside our apartments, engineers came up with a very simple, but very effective solution– connect all plumbing fixtures to the sewer through a water seal.

A water seal is a bend in a pipe that drains drainage from a plumbing fixture, in the form Latin letter S. You can see what the water seal looks like in cross-section in the figure below:

The design of the water seal is simply genius. After draining the water, a small amount of liquid remains in it, which reliably blocks the pipe, preventing odors from leaking through it from the sewer.

However, in some cases, a water seal may not prevent unpleasant odors into the room. Typically, this happens in two cases:

• the water in the water seal has dried up and air from the sewer began to freely penetrate into the room;
• the water seal failed.

In the first case, everything is clear - if you do not use the plumbing fixture for a long time, the water in the water seal simply dries out, opening the passage unpleasant odors. Therefore, if you are planning to go somewhere for a long time, you can protect against drying out by pouring vegetable oil into the toilet or sink, which will prevent the water from evaporating and protect the water plug from drying out.

In the second case, everything is somewhat more complicated. A water seal failure can occur due to the fact that when a large mass of water moves along a riser, a vacuum is formed behind it, which can cause a failure. The water from the water seal will simply be sucked out by this vacuum.

Sooner or later there comes a time when replacing the sewer system in an apartment is inevitable. The owner will need to purchase new sewer pipes and begin installation work.

Many people wonder how to properly install a sewer system in an apartment on their own. Of course, sewer installation skills will not hurt, but you can cope without them.

When preparing for installation, all water intake points in the apartment must be taken into account. It would not hurt to develop a diagram in which the dimensions and placement of plumbing fixtures will be preserved.

In order for the installation of sewerage in an apartment to be carried out efficiently, you need to know some nuances.

Helpful information:

So, the scheme has been drawn up, the materials have been purchased, all that remains is to prepare the available tools. To perform installation work you will need the following tools:

1. Hammer.
2. Bulgarian.
3. Chisel.
4. Hammer.
5. Screwdriver Set.
6. Wrench.

Having acquired everything you need, you can begin dismantling the old sewer system.

Dismantling of old sewerage

To prepare the basis for installing a new sewer system, you need to dismantle the old sewer system.

It is advisable to dismantle the sewage system in an apartment in stages.

Stages of dismantling an old sewer:

These are the main stages of sewer dismantling. However, first you should pay attention to the layout of the sewage system in the room.

Principles of wiring

There are two principles by which sewerage design is carried out. Adhering to these two principles, the sewerage installation in the apartment will be done correctly.

1. Slope. It is believed that the sewer system is able to function normally if the slope fluctuates between 2-3%. You also need to take into account the fact: the farther the plumbing fixture is from the riser, the higher you need to raise it to it.
2. Straightness of sections. According to this principle, the apartment’s sewer system should have a minimum number of fittings and outlets. After all, it is at the joints that the greatest number of blockages are formed. In general, it wouldn't hurt to install a revision.

Piping in the bathroom

The bathroom is the most saturated in terms of the number of plumbing fixtures. Therefore, installation work here will be more labor-intensive. For a plumber, installing sewerage in a bathroom is a responsible, but not difficult, task. The same cannot be said about the common man.

The difficulty of installing a sewer system in a bathroom is that the installed sewer network will force you to lift the plumbing. In addition, the bathroom should have several outlets, thanks to which a large amount of water can be drained at the same time. Here you need to take into account all the little things and nuances that only a competent person knows about.

When installing sewerage in an apartment, you need to remember:

• The height of the toilet drain is approximately 180-190 mm. If the toilet is attached.
• In this case, the height of the sewer outlet under the washbasin should be equal to 530-550 mm from the floor level.

More detailed information about the sewer system can be obtained by studying regulatory documents (SNiP, GOST).

Sewage installation

Installation of the sewer can begin after fixing the new rubber cuff in the socket of the tee with sealant. You need to keep in mind that the price of replacing the sewer system in an apartment will depend on the material chosen.

To install a sewer system, it is better to purchase. Affordable price, a light weight and ease of installation are the main advantages of these pipes.

Features of installation work:

The entire sewer system is very easy to assemble. You just need to connect the sewer pipes through gaskets. Gaskets guarantee excellent sealing. Just in case, you can use silicone sealant.

By the way, the sewage system in Khrushchev is much simpler than in new buildings. It has two elements: a riser and internal wiring. The riser is the main pipe of the drainage system, and the internal wiring is the sewer pipeline in the room. A feature of the Khrushchev sewer system is that wastewater must move to the main riser by gravity.

Forced sewerage

When standard arrangement sewer riser causes inconvenience to the apartment owners, then forced sewerage in the apartment will correct this situation.

Forced sewerage is a pump that is equipped with grinders.

Thanks to its small dimensions, it will be invisible if installed behind some plumbing fixture. The pumped out wastewater is crushed by grinders and then moved through the sewer pipe to the sewer or septic tank. It is important that the size of the sewer pipe should be small, namely from 18 to 40 mm.

Despite the fact that forced sewerage in an apartment involves the use of thin pipes, its performance is at a high level.

It turns out that if the owners of the apartment are not satisfied with the location of the main riser, they can purchase forced sewerage and eliminate the previous inconveniences.

Allowable distances

If water supply and sewerage systems are developed independently, this does not mean that the requirements of SNiP can be neglected. During construction, the minimum distances regulated by the regulatory document must be taken into account.

During construction, the distance between the water supply and sewerage networks must comply with the minimum values ​​of SNiP. SNiP requires that the horizontal distance between the water supply and sewerage be at least 1.5 m. At the same time, the vertical distance between the water supply and sewerage must be at least 0.4 m. Taking into account the diameter and material of the pipe, the distance from the water supply to the sewerage will be 1 .5-5 m.

According to SNiP, the distance between the water supply inlet and the sewer outlet must also be taken into account during construction work. Therefore, before starting to install a sewer system, it is necessary to study the norms and requirements of SNiP.

To know how to install sewerage in an apartment without violating the requirements regulatory documents, you need to systematically take an interest in the updated editions of SNiP.

Replacing a sewer system in an apartment with your own hands is a complex, responsible, difficult, troublesome and dangerous task. Where there is still old cast iron, replacing it with plastic, as they say, simply screams. But plumbing work roads, and for good reason. Therefore, it is recommended to undertake sewer repairs in an apartment yourself only if there is an acute shortage of funds. And first you should clearly understand the sewerage system, otherwise a small inaccuracy can turn your apartment into a gas chamber. In this regard, the work of a plumber can be compared to the work of a sapper.

Sewage device

A typical sewage system in an apartment is shown in the figure. The main principles of its design are that under any external conditions, the pressure in the riser is slightly higher than atmospheric pressure and accurately maintained slopes.

If the first rule is violated in a smaller direction (low pressure) atmospheric air will squeeze sewer gases into the apartment and can form an explosive mixture with them. If there is excess pressure, harmful gases will eject water from the siphons and break into the home themselves.

About pipe slopes

Installation of sewer pipes is carried out at a slope within strictly defined limits. If the slope is small, the liquid simply will not flow down them, and if the slope is too big water will drain quickly, but the contamination will remain in the pipe. Paradoxically, excessive “leaking” of the sewer pipe leads to chronic blockages. SNiP give the following values MINIMUM slopes sewer pipes:

1. With a diameter of 50 mm – 30 mm/m.
2. 110 mm – 20 mm/m.
3. 160 mm – 8 mm/m.
4. 200 mm – 7 mm/m.

The MAXIMUM slope should not exceed 150 mm/m, with the exception of bends for plumbing fixtures up to 1.5 m long. Connecting sewer pipes at right angles is allowed only in a vertical plane.

It is difficult to maintain slopes in a residential area, but this is a very responsible task. Therefore, when completely replacing the sewer system or designing it for a new house, it is recommended to use the capital guidance of A.A. Lukins. and Lukinykh N.A. " ". This fundamental work, which, in addition to ready-made values ​​for most life circumstances, also contains formulas by which you can independently carry out calculations for exceptional cases.

About neighbors

Do-it-yourself sewer replacement in apartment building is impossible without good neighborly relations: after all, during your work, the neighbors “on the risers” (above and below) will have to sit without water and endure it or go to the bucket instead of the toilet. And any secret ill-wisher, having opened the taps of the risers of cold and hot water in the basement, will give them a sign that the work is supposedly finished. They will start using it “from the heart”, and everything from above will come to you. Non-trivial options are possible here. The author of these lines knows of a case where an evil and irresponsible alcoholic was successfully neutralized during work by getting him drunk to death.

Protective Equipment and Precautions

When repairing a sewer system, the riser outlets, even if they are not changed, will have to be released for some time. Let’s say everything is settled with the neighbors and the water is turned off. But where is the guarantee that one of them will not be “grabbed” to the point that he forgets, does his job in the toilet and flushes out of the bucket? And all this will be yours. And on you. Therefore, before starting work:

• Remove the toilet and clean the toilet completely.
• Close the walls and floor of the toilet plastic film on tape.
• Stock up on a plastic raincoat, rubber boots, gloves and a helmet with protective glass. A separate glass on the hoop will not work: you will have to work with heavy, brittle cast iron hanging above your head.

Securing the riser at the top

A prerequisite for do-it-yourself sewer repair is a securely fastened top of the riser. You should not rely on standard fastenings (if they still exist) on the floors: over time, they weaken, rust, and during repairs, all the upper sections may end up in your apartment. Replacement, of course, at the expense of the culprit.

Moreover, old cast iron riser may burst from vibration when working with a power tool or impacts even at a sufficiently distant area from it. A properly executed fastening unit is also a damper that absorbs vibration. And in any case, a securely fastened riser will reduce the likelihood of a sewerage accident.

To secure the riser at the top, right under the ceiling, but always above the very top joint of the pipes on both sides of the riser, install it into the wall cement mortar two strong crutches, at least 12 mm in diameter. Threaded rod pieces or ready-made studs with a metal mounting collet work well; in this case, you can do without cement. The embedment depth is at least 120 mm. The stud must protrude at least 40 mm beyond the middle of the riser pipe.

The riser is secured with two semicircular brackets (half-clamps) 2-3x40-60 mm in front and behind. Strips of thin, dense rubber, for example, from a car inner tube, are placed under the staples. In the “ears” of the half-clamps you need to drill holes for the studs. The staples are attached to the studs between two nuts, tightening them alternately to prevent lateral forces from appearing on the riser. It is also unacceptable to secure the riser with one clamp or bracket, pressing it against the wall. If the riser is already adjacent to the wall, you need to carefully knock out a groove under it for the rear bracket. And don’t forget – cast iron is very fragile!

Pipe material

What plastic pipes certainly better than cast iron, it is known. But plastic comes in different varieties, and the reliability of the sewer system largely depends on the material of the pipes. Quality and comparative cost pipes from various types plastics are as follows:

1. Polyethylene is cheap, but it is definitely rejected: it is subject to deformation, is not heat-resistant, and does not seal reliably. Polyethylene pipes come on sale from “alternative” manufacturers; Repairing the sewer system “temporarily” is nonsense.
2. PVC is cheaper than propylene and has the lowest hydraulic resistance; it is glued with dichloroethane glue. But heat resistance is limited to 80 degrees, and its strength and chemical resistance are not very high: you can clean PVC sewers only with a plunger or an ultrasonic emitter.
3. Polyisopropylene (propylene) is quite expensive and not as smooth as PVC. But it holds up to 130 degrees, and in terms of strength and durability it allows mechanical cleaning cable or spiral and chemical active means, except for concentrated acids and alkalis.

Pipe diameters

The diameter of the sewer pipes of 32 mm is acceptable in two cases: if the sewer system with separate risers and the drainage from plumbing fixtures goes directly into the riser or the length of the wiring from the farthest point to the riser does not exceed 7 m. In other cases, you need to use 40 mm or 50 - mm pipes.

The minimum diameter of the riser pipe is 110 mm. Sometimes there are risers of 160 mm and even 200 mm. Accordingly, you need to select the elements of the new riser, see the section on replacing it.

For PVC sewer, if the drain from the kitchen is only from the sink, you can run a 32 mm pipe from the kitchen to the bathtub. But the drain from the bathtub and further to the riser must be at least 40 mm in any case.

Work order

Replacing the apartment sewer system is carried out in the following order:

• We determine the installation locations for plumbing fixtures if it is planned to reconstruct the system or install additional equipment.
• We draw a diagram of the sewerage wiring in the apartment. We indicate on the diagram the location of the pipes, the distances between them, their sizes and the slopes of the sections.
• We perform a revision (inspection) of the old wiring and choose a method for dismantling it.
• We calculate the amount of materials and components needed for repairs. We purchase pipes, fittings, sealant, transition couplings from plastic to cast iron in accordance with the wiring diagram.
• We try on pipes with fittings in place.
• We install the system in sections in free space (on the floor).
• We dismantle old equipment.
• We install new pipelines and customize them in place.
• We carry out final installation of the system with sealing of joints.
• We install and connect plumbing fixtures.
• We connect the system to a ventilated riser.
• Once the sealant has hardened, check for leaks.

Now let's give some explanations of the individual stages of work.

Devices

We select places for devices based on the following:

The maximum length of the rigid connection to the siphon is 1.5 m; corrugated - 0.8 m. The minimum permissible angle in the horizontal plane is 120 degrees. It is highly desirable that there are no horizontal corners at all. You may have to re-determine the types of devices, so you should not purchase them in advance.

Scheme

If you just need to change old sewer to the new one, and the old one is generally in good working order, we draw the diagram according to the “as it was” principle. If there were problems with the previous sewer system, or a new one is being installed, we accurately maintain the slopes and diameters; in doubtful cases we make calculations. We hand over the finished diagram to specialists for verification: it’s much cheaper than drawing up a project with a call to the site, and it’s no good doing something for yourself.

The diagram should indicate:

1. The premises of the apartment in which the work will be carried out. If the pipe simply passes through the closet, then it is still considered that there will be work there.
2. For each room - the location of the system elements, indicating the dimensions and distances from the walls. The elements are not devices, it’s all the wiring. For a pipe passing through a closet, its parameters in the closet must be indicated, even if they are the same in the kitchen. If a solid pipe passes through a wall, then its total length should be indicated, as well as the length of each section.
3. All fittings and service elements: cleaning and inspection bends, etc.
4. Location of the central sewer riser.

An example of a sewer system in a private house:

Inspection and dismantling methods

The purpose of the audit is to determine how to dismantle the old wiring. Depending on its condition, disassembly is carried out in the following ways:

• In rare cases, when changing from plastic to plastic, sections of pipes are simply removed with a rocking motion.
• In the rarest cases, when cast iron pipes are free on all sides, the old pipeline is disassembled in the same way, but the sealing of the connections is first selected with a chisel or chisel.
• In other cases, the pipes are sawed in sections, as far as will fit, with a grinder with a diamond wheel, then a wedge or a powerful flat-head screwdriver is inserted into the cut, and hammered with a 1-2 kg hammer or sledgehammer until the pipe bursts along the bridge of the cut.

In any case, the pipeline to be dismantled is first disconnected from the riser, and disassembly begins from the far end.

Notes:

1. Breaking cast iron pipes with a heavy sledgehammer is only permissible on the first floor of a private house with a slab reinforced concrete floor floor.
2. With a corundum wheel for metal, work is difficult, the wheel wears out quickly, and in terms of cost, disassembling with a diamond wheel turns out to be only slightly more expensive. The diamond wheel will serve for a long time.

Materials

We calculate materials so that as few pipes as possible have to be cut. It is advisable to first find out from your seller what standard sizes he offers; special meaning has the length of sections. The ideal case is when only one pipe is cut. It is possible that the sewerage scheme will have to be modified to optimize costs for materials.

Trying on site

This operation has three goals:

• Find out whether there will be some kind of coupling on the wall, whether there will be “tails” of pipes behind the walls sufficient to fit into the couplings and mark the places of the couplings on the wall.
• Mark out the installation locations for supporting crutches or clips and determine their number.
• Identify places that are especially inconvenient for work, think through and verify the sequence of operations in them.

Rough editing

Preliminary installation of pipeline sections is carried out without sealing: we simply insert the ends of the pipes into the pipes with gaskets. We cut ONLY the free ends of the pipes to size with a margin of 10-15 mm; The mounting pipes must not be touched under any circumstances. We do the pruning hand hacksaw on metal in a miter box strictly at 90 degrees, cut off the burrs with a mounting knife and remove the chamfers. The “hairy” end of the pipe will become a source of constant blockages. We immediately turn the rotary tees/splitters to the desired position.

Dismantling old pipes

Dismantling methods have already been described. In general, dismantling is carried out as follows:

1. The sealing of pipes in the walls is knocked out or removed by others in an accessible way. The pipes must be “wall free” before dismantling.
2. We remove appliances from the kitchen to the bathroom, emptying the bathroom and kitchen.
3. We outline the installation locations of new devices (or old ones in a new place) with a pencil on the wall.
4. We warn the neighbors and shut off the water to the floors.
5. We remove the toilet from cistern, prepare the toilet for use as described above.
6. To disconnect the distribution pipeline from the riser, we make TWO cuts 120-150 mm apart, and first drive the wedge into the cut FAR from the riser, and only after disconnecting the entire pipe do we break out the piece.
7. We drill along the contour or hammer with a chisel and a hammer no heavier than 200 g the seal of the pipe into the outlet of the riser, we take out (more precisely, we pick out, using our working ingenuity to the fullest extent) the rest of the pipe. Once again, don’t forget, cast iron is very fragile!
8. We clean the inside of the outlet pipe and toilet and plug it tightly with rags.
9. We supply water and inform the neighbors that they can use it for now.
10. Next, we dismantle the pipeline, starting from the far end.

Note: long cast iron pipe- a good resonator. If you violate the shutdown order, the neighbors will lose all goodwill towards you due to the roar and ringing, and the riser may burst, and not necessarily on you.

Video: example of dismantling cast iron pipes

Finish installation

Finish installation is carried out FROM THE Riser. The authors of the recommendations to conduct it from end to beginning only used plumbing. The main rule: the PREVIOUS pipe is adjusted to the size. If you break it, the entire wiring will go away... let's not get distracted by the professional jargon of plumbers. The operating procedure is as follows:

• In the outlet of the riser, according to the instructions, we install a plastic-cast iron transition collar.
• We insert the first section of pipe into the cuff and check whether its mounting pipe is in place.
• We cut it exactly to size, clean the cut, and chamfer it.
• We finally mount it using sealant.
• In the same way, we assemble the entire pipeline section by section to the end.
• If the riser is not expected to be replaced, we adjust the toilet pipe to the exact size, put it on the sealant and install the toilet back.
• After the sealant has hardened, check for leaks and.

Notes:

1. There are transitional cuffs different designs, therefore, a description of the installation of specific samples is not given: each model is accompanied by detailed instructions. To select, you need to know the connecting dimensions, and check the quality of rubber and plastic parts when purchasing.
2. All of these operations, if the riser outlets have been securely plugged, can be performed without turning off the water supply.
3. Plastic pipes are thin-walled and very slowly develop plaque from the inside. It's good, but plastic sewer very loud. Therefore, its sound insulation is necessary, but its description is the subject of a separate article.

Sealing connections

Sealing of joints is carried out as follows:

• The sealant used is neutral (non-acidic), silicone or polyurethane. For propylene, any is suitable; for PVC, only silicone.
• Each plastic gasket treated with a thin layer of sealant. Rubber gaskets are installed in couplings dry.
• The sealant is applied to inner surface installation pipe with a minimally thin layer and on the outer surface of the mating pipe with a layer of normal thickness, according to the instructions for the sealant.
• We insert the pipe into the coupling. The squeezed-out bead of sealant should have a diameter of approximately half the flange of the mounting pipe and be uniform in thickness. If there is something missing somewhere, we add a little.
• We wrap the joint with thin plastic film and use a spatula, brush or fabric swab to smooth the sealant through the film with slight pressure. A fillet should form at least 2/3 of the flange and the same amount along the pipe.
• Leave the film on the joint until the sealant hardens.

Checking for leaks

To check for leaks completely, so that the water goes into the overflow, fill the bathtub. Then we fully open all the taps, cold and hot, and the bath plug. Everything should flow out without leaving a drop on the floor.

To check for leaks, plug the toilet drain with a rubber plunger and fill the bucket to the top. We take out the plunger; When the water has gone, we look to see if a puddle has formed.

Replacing the riser

Replacing a sewer riser in an apartment is one of the operations that amateurs are strongly advised not to undertake. It is only permissible to change the riser yourself, where no one except you will get hurt. And you definitely need at least one helper. Experienced plumbers allow an assistant, who is already jokingly changing the wiring, to replace the riser for the first time only under strict personal supervision, especially since it is impossible to replace the riser alone.

If you do decide to do this, remember: all possible consequences are your full responsibility.

To replace the riser you will need the following:

1. Rubber transition cuffs plastic/cast iron and cast iron/plastic.
2. Plastic cross with diameters 110 mm/110 mm/110 mm/50 mm, having a 50 mm outlet in the right side(right or left).
3. Two pipes with a diameter of 110 mm of the required length.
4. Compensator 110 mm for plastic pipes. Without it, it will not be possible to assemble the riser, since the riser does not have a free end.
5. Metal clamps with studs or crutches for attaching the riser to the wall.
6. 2 plastic 45 degree swivel elbows for leveling or moving the riser to the side.
7. Plastic insert with a cleaning hatch for the riser made of propylene pipes. PVC pipes for a riser are applicable on the top floor or in a private house.

The procedure for replacing the riser is as follows:

• We strengthen the old riser from above, as described above.
• We turn off the water and warn the neighbors.
• In the middle of the old riser we make two cuts, as when disconnecting the wiring from it.
• Insert TWO wedges or screwdrivers into the BOTTOM cut at 45 degrees on both sides from the middle.
• By beating one by one, we achieve chipping along the lower bridge. This operation requires a lot of experience and skill: if it is performed incorrectly, the entire column of pipes can collapse either towards you or downwards from you.
• We rearrange the wedges into the upper cut and break off the cut piece.
• An assistant (preferably two) holds top part pipes, and you use a chisel or chisel to remove as much of the sealing of the upper joint as possible.
• Carefully, but shaking with force, loosen the upper joint and remove the pipe. This operation is no less important than cutting out the middle.
• We select the seal of the lower joint (after the cross-splitter) and just as carefully and forcefully rock and remove the lower pipe with the same cross. This stage is even more responsible.
• We assemble the new riser roughly according to the diagram, from top to bottom: pipe - adjusting bend - compensator - cleaning - adjusting bend - pipe - cross. We mate the top and bottom of the new riser to the cast iron with appropriate cuffs.
• During the rough assembly process, we adjust the lower pipe exactly to size.
• We do the final assembly using sealant, connect the wiring, and install the toilet.
• We supply water and notify neighbors.
• We secure the riser with clamps on studs or crutches at at least four points: a third of the length of the pipe from the upper and lower ends and at each adjusting bend.

Notes:

1. Under no circumstances should you hammer on old pipes or pull them to loosen them. When loosening, you need to monitor the end of the pipe in the coupling and adjust your movements to the state of the seal. Just rocking it back and forth won't keep it loose forever.
2. Particular care and attention should be exercised with intelligence when loosening down tube. If it turns out of the crosspiece, then it is extremely difficult to loosen and remove the latter without already having a long lever, and completely impossible for a beginner. You will have to call on a specialist for help and prepare to patiently listen to everything that he deems necessary to say to you. And pay as much as he orders: not every plumber will undertake such work.

To mount sewer system in an apartment, it is important to choose the right pipes and prepare the pipeline for assembly. Strict adherence to installation rules will help to avoid mistakes and reduce the risk of problems during sewer operation.

To equip indoor drainage systems, pipes made of cast iron or polymers are used: polyethylene, polypropylene and polyvinyl chloride.

Cast iron products are strong, durable (service life is up to 100 years), resistant to temperature changes, chemical and mechanical influences and absorb sound well, but they are expensive, and without special tools and installation skills it is difficult to install a cast iron pipeline with your own hands; here you cannot do without the help of specialists .

A self-contained drainage system is often installed from polymer pipes: polyethylene, polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride. Pipes made of polymers are easy to install and are much cheaper than cast iron, but they have two significant drawbacks: lack of sound absorption and a shorter service life - up to 50 years.

Each type of plastic has its own characteristics and operating temperature:

Note! For internal sewerage use plastic pipes gray, orange ones are for outdoor drainage systems.

An important factor in choosing pipes is throughput. This parameter depends on the diameter of the pipe and the functional purpose of the pipeline section.

Installation of sewerage in an apartment

It is necessary to install sewerage in an apartment in as soon as possible, because the drainage network in an apartment building is common, and installation work causes inconvenience to neighbors. Therefore, you need to plan the procedure in advance, decide on a set of building materials, carry out necessary preparation workspace.

Process Features

The installation of a sewer system in an apartment has nuances depending on whether the old pipeline is being replaced or it is being installed from scratch.