What is the distance of the fence posts. Fence: optimal distance between supports

What is the distance between the fence posts from corrugated board - this question worries many when installing a fence from corrugated board. Many of us will go to Yandex and ask the all-knowing search engine. He will no doubt give you a quick answer - 3 meters. But is everything so obvious? As you may have guessed, not at all.

Let's deal with the distance between the pillars. First, the pillars can be different:

• brick pillars;
• metal poles, overlapping logs;
• metal poles, logs end-to-end.

Secondly, the professional sheet can also be different. The total width of the C8 corrugated board is 1200 mm, the working width of the C8 corrugated board is 1150 mm. For corrugated board C10 and C20, similar parameters: 1150 mm and 1100 mm.

Now let's try on our professional sheet for 3 types of pillars.

1. Brick pillars. The corrugated board on the fence should have a minimum overlap width. The overlap width corresponds to the difference between the normal and working width, that is, 0.05 m. Now we need to decide how many sheets we will arrange. If 2 sheets, then the width of the sheets C8 \u003d 1.20 + 1.15 \u003d 2.35 m. If 3 sheets, then 1.2 + 1.15 + 1.15 \u003d 3.5 m. 3.5 m - extremely an unpleasant distance in terms of windage. Therefore, the distance between brick pillars with sheet C8 is 2.35 meters.
   We will make calculations for the profiled sheet C10 and C20. 2 sheets: 1.15 + 1.1 \u003d 2.25 m. 3 sheets: 1.15 + 1.1 + 1.1 \u003d 3.35 m. 3.35 meters using 3 sheets. If the fence is low, then 3.35 meters between brick pillars will look bad, so opt for two sheets and a distance of 2.25 meters.
   But there is another side to the issue - the economic one. Laying fence posts is not cheap. Therefore, from the point of view of investing money, it is better to use a layout with a minimum number of brick pillars.
2. Metal poles, overlapped logs. There are no problems. It is best to use a distance of 3 meters along the axes of the pillars. But important condition is the material lag. If the pipe is 40 * 20 * 2, then 3 meters is possible, if 40 * 20 * 1.5, it is better to take a shorter distance.
3. Metal poles, butt joists. Calculations for brick pillars are also relevant here with the only amendment that the installation of metal pillars is not as expensive as brick ones. If you start up 3 logs and 80 * 80 pillars, then with C8 corrugated board make 3.5 meters between the posts, and with C10 and C20 corrugated board - 3.35 meters.

But for all calculations there is a significant catch: the standard cutting of profile pipes is 6 meters. Six times 2 and 3. If it is possible to increase the lags to the desired lengths, no problem. But if the supplier of materials for your fence refuses to make logs of the required length, then you will have to be content with the usual distance between the fence posts of 3 meters.

That's so much different values we made it. We hope they help you with self installation corrugated board fence.

AT last years sheet corrugated board has taken a leading position among the materials used for fencing.

Low price, easy installation and durability. These three factors are decisive in his choice.

Stability and strength metal fence provided with poles. They are the most critical element of the design.

If the step and depth of their installation is incorrectly chosen, mistakes are made when attaching the skin, then the owner of the estate will soon have to deal with repairs.

In this article, we will talk about what kind of posts are needed for a corrugated fence and how to install them correctly. Having received useful information, you will avoid annoying mistakes and unjustified expenditure of funds for restoration work.

Which poles are suitable for corrugated fencing?

Strictly speaking, any. However, we are interested in a material that is as durable and strong as possible. wood is the least suitable option. Its service life is much less than that of metal.

Having installed corrugated board on pine racks treated with an antiseptic, you will have to remove it after 6 years and start work again. The use of larch or oak prolongs the life of the frame, but increases. Therefore, wooden posts are most often used for temporary fences.

You can eliminate the contact of wood with the ground by making a metal adapter and concrete it in the foundation. However, this option is not suitable for high fences that experience intense wind loads. Another similar option is to use a piece of a profile pipe as a steel sleeve into which a post is inserted and then concreted.

The next contender for the title of the supporting structure is asbestos-cement pipes. They are inexpensive, do not rot and are quite durable. Their disadvantages include the fragility and difficulty of fastening the runs.

Leave asbestos-cement pipes can't be opened. Rainwater, hitting them like a well, in winter it will freeze and break the walls. Therefore, after installation, they are filled cement mortar or, before starting work, they put plugs on both ends.

Reinforced concrete is also suitable for making posts. The only requirement that needs to be taken into account at the pouring stage is the installation of metal embedded plates to which the runs will be attached.

The technology of industrial casting of concrete in recent years has stepped far forward. Therefore, instead of labor-intensive “home needlework”, we recommend buying aesthetic prefabricated structures.

Metal is the undisputed leader in the field of "fence construction". It goes well with corrugated board, holds wind loads well and retains strength for 50 years. The only thing that is required from the owner is to update the anti-corrosion protection once every 3-4 years.

The cross-sectional shape of standard steel posts is round, square and rectangle. A profiled pipe is more convenient to install and for this reason is used more often than a round one.

Fastening runs can be done different ways using welding, additional elements and threaded connections. This is another advantage of steel racks.

Pillars for a fence made of corrugated board are often made of brick. However, even in this case it will not be possible to do without metal. It is required for the manufacture of embedded parts to which the logs are fixed, and to give the structure sufficient rigidity.

The basis is reinforcing bars or a profile pipe. The space between the masonry and the metal is filled with mortar.

The disadvantages of brick racks include the high price, the laboriousness of the masonry and the heavy weight, which requires pouring a solid foundation. In terms of aesthetics and durability, they are superior to other types of fence supports.

To install a fence made of corrugated board, it is advantageous to use screw posts. These are hollow steel pipes of a square or round profile, equipped with a wide blade.

Using them, you can assemble a solid frame without earthworks and concrete. The pile rack is screwed into the ground to a depth of 0.8-1.2 meters and is firmly held in it due to wide blades. On soft soil, screw posts can be placed manually using a special mechanism for gripping and rotating.

The main points of installation

In order to correctly install the poles, you must select best way their anchorage in the ground. To do this, take into account the composition of the soil. If it is sandy and dense enough, then the racks can be placed without concreting in prepared wells or by driving.

The main danger for any fence supports is the forces of frost heaving, pushing them out of the ground and warping the frame. On sand, which passes moisture well, deformation of the fence does not threaten. Concrete in this case is used to increase the contact area of ​​​​the support with the ground.

On dense sandy soil, it is recommended to deepen the posts by at least 1/3 of their length. On loose and heaving soil the embedment depth remains the same, but the well should be drilled with a diameter of 100 mm more than the width of the column and always below the depth of seasonal freezing of the soil.

Having done this work, the bottom of the pit is covered with rubble and sand to the level of the installation of racks. After mounting the support around it, a mixture of crushed stone and sand is poured in layers with tamping. By letting water through, it will prevent the pole from being pushed out by frozen soil.

Concreting can be done in one of two ways:

• Traditional (digging a hole, lowering a support into it and pouring it with concrete);
• Combined (a well is drilled to a depth of at least 80 cm, a stand is placed and a wide hole 40 cm deep is dug around it for concreting).

Note that the second option is more economical than the first in terms of concrete consumption, although it is more difficult to implement.

Fence posts can be tied together with a shallow tape grillage. It increases the rigidity of the fence and improves its appearance.

For a fence from steel pipes You can use different sections of the profile. Most often, supports are made of square pipe 60x60 mm with a wall thickness of 3 mm or rectangular 60x40 mm (3 mm wall). Racks made of round pipes are less convenient when installing girders. Therefore, they are used less often.

The second issue that should be resolved before starting work is the distance (step) between the pillars. Profile pipes are supplied in the form of 6-meter whips, therefore, to reduce losses, it is more profitable to cut them into 3-meter pieces.

The optimal size of the section of the runs (lag) is 40x20mm, the wall thickness is at least 2 mm.

The distance between the lags depends on the height of the fence and ranges from 1.2 to 1.6 meters. From the bottom of the sheet to the ground or to the upper mark of the foundation grillage, a gap of 5 to 10 cm is left.

Installation of metal poles and frame

The first stage is marking the contour of the fence with a tape measure and a cord. In the course of this work, pegs are driven into the ground, marking the places for digging holes.

First they put, level and concrete the pillars at the corners of the site. After that, they dig holes for ordinary racks. A cord is pulled between the extreme supports and ordinary posts are placed along it.

Attention! To protect against corrosion, the lower part of the support must be welded with a steel plate and coated protective composition. The top covers are welded to the racks after their installation is completed or special plastic plugs are placed in them.

Double control of distances during installation is necessary. When drilling and digging holes, there is a deviation from the intended installation points for the supports. Metal does not forgive mistakes, so the distances between the centers of the racks must be maintained with an accuracy of 1 cm.

Having exposed the supports, they are temporarily fixed with wedges or pieces of brick and once again check the verticality and step. After that, you can pour concrete or fill the pits with a sand-gravel mixture.

After giving the concrete 7 days to gain strength, you can proceed with the installation of the log (runs). They are attached by welding or threaded connections. Welding technology is used more often because it is simpler and faster. Having aligned the run on the level, it is grabbed to the rack, the “horizon” is checked again and fixed with a working seam.

Having collected metal carcass, you can proceed to attaching corrugated board to it using special self-tapping screws.

When installing a fence, we first determine what goal we are pursuing, other than how to fence off a piece of land. What fence do we need? For many who want to save a little, is the best option price quality.

For relative durability and cheapness, it is more logical to install supports made of metal pipes. But do not forget that the metal supports for the fence must be prepared for digging into the ground. Coated with primer and paint, anti-corrosion agent.

Calculation fence post spacing calculated taking into account some parameters.

• fence height
• support section
• fence length
• number of fence posts

If the fence and supports are made of bricks. That distance between metal supports inside each brick pillar there will be 2.5 m.

If the supports are wooden, with a fence height of 2 meters, then the distance between the posts will also be 2.5 meters. Such columns need to be deepened to a depth of 1.2 meters.

Before installation wooden fence poles are dried, processed blue vitriol and coated with a primer or oil paint. Then we wrap the lower end of the fence with roofing material. Install such a column "top down".

Wire mesh is an ideal material for lightweight fencing. It does not obscure the light, and therefore is widely used for fencing beds, gardens, marking the boundaries of neighboring areas. To put up a chain-link fence with your own hands, you do not need to be an experienced craftsman, it is enough just to familiarize yourself with and choose the right materials.

Fence materials

The appearance, durability and cost of a chain-link fence directly depends on the quality of the mesh. Metal grid available in three versions:

• non-galvanized;
• galvanized;
• plasticized.

The cheapest of all. It is not suitable for permanent fencing, as it begins to rust after the first rain. Usually untreated black mesh lasts no more than 3-4 years. To extend the service life, the non-galvanized chain-link should be coated either with paint or with special compounds, which, after application, form a water-repellent coating on the mesh. Periodically, such processing must be repeated, which as a result is more expensive than the purchase of a galvanized mesh.

Moisture is not afraid and does not require protective treatment. Her appearance is much more attractive, such a grid looks especially good in sectional fences. The cost of galvanized mesh is higher than regular black mesh, but since it lasts longer and does not need to be painted every 2-3 years, this option is more practical.

plasticized mesh has a special polymer coating corrosion resistant. The coating is not only durable, but also a variety of colors, so you can choose a mesh to match the main fence or roof of the house. The most popular is the netting of blue and green, less often you can see a white, red or yellow mesh fence.

Special attention should be paid to the supporting pillars of the fence. Chain-link mesh can be attached to metal pipes, steel profiles, concrete posts and even wooden posts.

The most convenient and practical supports are metal pipes square section. Manufacturers offer pipes with hooks already welded on, especially for installing mesh fences. To reduce the cost of installing the fence, used pipes are also used, and the hooks are welded on their own. In addition, hooking is not the only option, it is possible to fix the mesh with steel wire.

How to calculate the amount of materials

The most popular for the manufacture of fences is considered to be a chain-link mesh with a width of 1.5 m and mesh sizes of 40-50 mm. A standard roll of mesh has a length of 10 m. To prevent the mesh from sagging, support posts must be installed in increments of 2-2.5 m. This means that no more than 5 posts will be required per roll. The above-ground part of the supports should exceed the width of the grid by 10 cm, and the posts should be dug into the ground by 1/3 of their height.

So, if you need to install a chain-link fence 30 m long and 1.5 m high, you will need 3 rolls of mesh and 16 posts 2.3-2.5 m long. 3 hooks should be attached to each post - top, bottom and middle . Multiplying the number of supports by 3, they find out how many hooks will be needed. If the fence is sectional, additionally calculate the amount metal corners for the frame. The height of each section is equal to the width of the grid, and the length of the run is 2-2.5 m. The most convenient corner for a 40x40 mm frame with a thickness of 5 mm.

Netting prices

Rabitz

Tension fence manufacturing

Tension fencing made of chain-link mesh is faster than sectional fencing, and is cheaper. The installation process includes marking, preparation of pits for poles, installation of poles and fence canvas.

For work you will need:

Step 1. Marking the site

They take wooden pegs and a long string and start marking. First you need to determine the location of the extreme pillars. In these places, pegs are driven in, a twine is pulled between them at a height of 10 cm above the ground. If the fence line has breaks, a beacon is also placed on each of them and a rope is fixed. Further along the marking line, it is necessary to drive in pegs where the intermediate supports will stand. The distance between the pegs must be the same and correspond to the width of the run.

Step 2. Preparing holes for poles

In places marked with pegs, holes are made with a garden drill from 80 to 120 cm deep. The denser the soil, the shallower the depth. Hole diameter should be slightly larger diameter pillars. At the bottom of each pit, a sand cushion 10 cm thick is arranged.

Step 3. Installation of load-bearing poles

Prepare pipes: clean their surface from oil stains and rust, grind, weld hooks. The welding points are cleaned, the scale is removed, and then the pipes are primed and painted. After that, the columns are lowered into the pits, leveled, strengthened with spacers. If all supports have the same height and are located strictly in one line, you can fill in. During the pouring process, the mortar is pierced several times with a steel bar to remove air bubbles from the concrete.

Step 4. Attaching the chain-link mesh

To fix the net on the poles, the roll does not need to be unwound. It is lifted vertically, put on the first support and hooked on hooks. If there are no hooks, the mesh is screwed with steel wire in three or four places. It is recommended to leave 10-15 cm between the surface of the earth and the lower edge of the grid. It can also be attached close to the soil, but then the cells will quickly become entangled with grass, debris, branches, and fallen leaves will accumulate under the fence.

Having fixed the chain-link on the first pillar, they move on to the second. The roll is unwound for 2-2.5 m, put on a support and the mesh is pulled. In order for the tension to be uniform, a steel bar 1.5 m long is threaded into the cells along the height of the roll. It is best to perform this process with an assistant: one person pulls the mesh, the other fastens it with wire or hooks it.

Even a tightly stretched netting sags over time, especially at the top. Reinforcing wire or long steel bars threaded into cells along the perimeter of the fence at a distance of 5-7 cm from the top and welded to the posts will help to avoid this. Sometimes the wire is threaded both from above and along the lower edge, stepping back from the ground 20 cm. Finally, the ends of the wire and hooks are bent inward, plugs are put on all the support posts.

Production of a sectional fence

The marking and installation of support posts for a sectional fence is carried out according to the technology described above. The only difference is that the posts should not be with hooks, but with welded metal plates. These plates have dimensions of 15x5 cm and a thickness of 5 mm; they are welded from above and below to the racks, stepping back from the edges by 20 cm.

To assemble the sections you will need:

• Rabitz;
• steel corners 40x40 mm;
• Bulgarian;
• roulette;
• rebar bars.

Step 1. Assembling the frame

Measure the distance between the bearing columns and subtract 15-20 cm from it - this will be the width of the frame from the corners. The height of the section is equal to the width of the grid or the height of the column minus 20 cm. The steel corners are cut to the size of the section and into a rectangle. Then the scale is removed, the inner and outer surfaces of the frame are ground.

Step 2 Preparing the Mesh

A chain-link roll is laid on the ground, unwound 2-2.5 m and carefully cut with a grinder in width. Now reinforcing bars are threaded into the extreme rows of cells on each side. The rods do not need to be connected to each other.

Step 3 Mounting the section

The mesh is laid on the frame and the top reinforcement is welded to inside corner. Next, the mesh is well pulled down and the lower rod is welded, after which the sides are fixed. The finished section is lifted vertically to the posts and welded to metal plates. You can also fix the section with bolts by drilling a hole of the desired diameter in the protruding part of the plate.

When mounting the next section, it is necessary to ensure that the edges of adjacent frames are in line. Even a difference of 1-2 cm will be noticeable and will give the fence a sloppy look. Finally, the sections are primed and painted. Thus, you can make a fence of any size without much hassle.

Video - Do-it-yourself chain-link fence

Fences are various types- from modern fences with horizontal metal fences, which can be ordered on the website zabor2000.ru, to brick or chain-link fences. The choice is always up to the owner suburban area, but with its independent installation or construction, it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the structure, and most importantly, the distance between the pillars in the 1st span. The stability, reliability and durability of the entire structure depends on this.

The length of the span between the supports is selected depending on the type of fence. Enclosing structures made of the following materials are in the greatest demand:

• brick (stone);
• corrugated board;
• wood;
• Rabitz.

Brickwork

When building a fence made of brick or stone, the pillars are usually made of a similar material or reinforced concrete. The distance between the pillars is mainly provided within 2.5-3.5 m. There are spans up to 6 m, when the total length of the fence is too large, and the finances for the purchase of building materials are limited. In this case, in order to increase the strength characteristics, it is recommended to additionally reinforce the structure - in the seams between the rows of bricks (for their entire length), additionally lay steel wire with a cross section of 4-6 mm. It is more expedient to reinforce every 2-3 rows.

There are many design options brick fences- with forged sections, inserts from corrugated board, wood, mesh, etc. But this should in no way affect the length of the span between bearing supports- it should be no more than 3.5 m.

Installation of pillars for the installation of a fence made of corrugated board, boards and chain-link mesh

As poles for fences made of these materials, it is advisable to use profile pipe section 40 × 20 or 40 × 40 mm. Applicable round pipe with a diameter of 40 mm or corner No. 63.

For the installation of supports, it is necessary to prepare a pit with a depth of 500-600 mm and a width of 300-400 mm, place a prepared pole in it and hammer it into the ground a little. Compact to a height of 100-200 mm with dump slag and pour the base with concrete to the level with the ground. This will significantly increase the rigidity of the fence.

When creating a fence between the pillars, a distance of 2-3 m must be observed. This optimal values, subject to which high structural strength and minimal labor intensity of the process are ensured. An increase in the step leads to a decrease in the reliability of the fence, its increased tendency to deformation, and as a result, unjustified financial costs for restoration.