What is the best plaster for a concrete ceiling. What is the best plaster for walls and ceilings

To repair a home or office, they start, starting with finishing the ceilings. Aligning the ceiling with your own hands without the help of specialists is a rather laborious step in this difficult process. Consider the most relevant method - leveling by plastering.

Ceiling leveling tools and accessories

We will need the following tools and accessories:

• Plastic or galvanized buckets of sufficient volume (15 liters minimum);
• An electric drill with different attachments (a mixer is required) and a power of at least 800 W;
• A set of spatulas - 50, 100, 200 mm;
• Trowel (trowel) made of stainless steel;
• plaster comb;
• Plaster float;
• Metal trowel (grater);
• Stucco falcon, long enough to match the size of the room;
• Sponge grout;
• Wide brush or roller;
• Small pickaxe, hatchet, scoop;
• Aluminum rule 2-2.5 m long;
• Bubble level (preferably laser);
• Plaster mixture Rotband (Knauf);
• Screws 6x45 mm;
• Beacon profiles 6 mm;
• Primer "Betonokontakt" (Feidel);
• Gloves to protect hands, respirator, tape measure.

Types of plaster mixtures for the ceiling

The finishing stage begins with the preparation of a working solution - gypsum, cement or lime. Currently, gypsum plaster mixes are popular. Materials of German origin, such as Rotband (Knauf), are especially convenient in the work of leveling the ceiling with your own hands. Let's compare plaster mixtures for leveling ceilings.

Cement plaster for ceiling

The advantages include low cost, durability, strength. In addition, it does not freeze when kneading in large volumes for a sufficient time to work.

Disadvantages: it dries for a long time (up to two weeks), it is difficult to work with it without sufficient experience, final putty is required, poor adhesion to a smooth concrete surface, work is accompanied by an abundance of dust and dirt.

Cement mortars are more durable, resistant to frost and high moisture compared to gypsum mortars, but this fact is not particularly relevant in a residential area.

Lime plaster for ceiling

Its advantages are: ease of application, rather fast curing, excellent antibacterial and thermal insulation properties, resistance to high temperatures, vapor permeability, which contributes to the creation of a comfortable microclimate in the room, environmental friendliness, good adhesion to any surfaces, the lowest cost.

Disadvantages: record holder for fragility, does not tolerate moisture.

Gypsum plaster for ceiling

There are few shortcomings, and they are completely covered by its advantages: it quickly hardens during operation, therefore portioned kneading is recommended, does not tolerate mechanical damage, high cost, is afraid of water.

We list the advantages of gypsum mixtures:

1. They make it possible to apply a thick layer of up to 50 mm in one run without the risk of cracking during the operation of the premises.
2. Gypsum practically does not shrink, therefore, when solidified, it does not form cracks.
3. When leveling the ceiling with gypsum plaster, less material is consumed for the same area, compared to cement mortar.
4. Gypsum plaster is a very plastic material, record-breakingly easy to work with, productivity is up to 40 m 2 by one person per day.
5. Good adhesion to the surface, low specific gravity makes this material problem-free for leveling the ceiling.
6. Lower thermal conductivity and better sound insulation compared to cement.
7. The ceiling, lined with gypsum mixture, "breathes", creating a comfortable atmosphere in the house.
8. With its help, it is much easier to level smooth, for example, concrete ceilings, it does not slip.
9. It generates very little dirt and dust during operation.
10. Lies down evenly, does not require final putty.
11. Eco-friendly mixture, harmless to humans.
12. Prevents heat loss, absorbs and releases moisture well.

Preparing the ceiling for leveling with plaster

It is possible to plaster a ceiling covering made of any material - wood, stone, concrete. Before leveling the ceiling with plaster, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work.

Disinfection of the ceiling before plaster

For disinfection, you can use the following disinfectant solutions from domestic manufacturers (some are made on the basis of copper sulfate) or imported products:

• Homeenpoiste (Finland);
• Pufas (Germany) - in the presence of small spots of mold and mildew;
• Feidal Schimmel - Ex-concentrate (Russia);
• Belinka (Slovenia);
• Bagi Anti-Mold (Israel);
• Deo-anti-mold (Russia);
• Sepotosan-T (Russia);
• Mogel-Fri (Sweden);
• NEOMID (Russia).

In case of large-scale infections of the ceiling surface, it is better to subject the "mycelium" to firing with a blowtorch or plasma welding. Chlorine-containing mold repellents do not give long-term results and require careful handling.

Cleaning the ceiling before leveling with plaster

Depending on the coating material, various cleaning agents and methods are used:

1. Whitewash can be removed with hot water.
2. To remove plaster, wet the ceiling with a sprayer or sponge roller, and you will not only get rid of dust, but also its removal will become less laborious. When cleaning plaster, use a hammer chisel, an ax or a crowbar.
3. The enamel is removed with a spatula in layers, and a particularly durable variety will require the use of a drill with a special brush head (do not forget to wear a respirator and goggles).
4. Removal of old paint is carried out with special solvents - domestic (Schelkovo, Volgograd) or Pufas (Germany). If the paint is applied to the plaster and "grown" with it, then they are removed together 30-40 minutes after coating with the product.

Ceiling primer before plastering

If there are a lot of potholes and they are deep, then it is advisable to purchase a quick-hardening cement-based putty "Spatter" or "Uniflot" from Knauf. Wide seams and cracks are additionally sealed over the putty with a serpentine tape. With a few damages, it is sufficient to seal them with Rotband gypsum putty.

The entire surface of the ceiling is treated with Knauf-Betonokontakt or a similar primer. With a brush dipped in a ready-to-use mixture for the primer "Betonokontakt", work through all the rusts - the connecting seams of the ceiling, chips, places where pipes pass. This primer makes the surface slightly rough, which contributes to good adhesion of the plaster.

The work is carried out with a medium-sized rectangular spatula. Defects are covered with small strokes, so that there are no gaps. After a strip of putty about a meter is formed, the excess is removed with a large spatula.

Priming of smooth surfaces is carried out as follows:

• Concrete primer. Smooth concrete surfaces do not adhere well. To increase the adhesion of concrete to the soil, the surface roughness is first created with a sandblaster or notches, cuts are made on it, for example, with an ax.
• Priming wood and steel surfaces. On such complex surfaces, the plaster will not hold without the use of a special plaster mesh with 10 * 10 mm cells. The metal mesh is attached to the ceiling with staples or wide-head nails.

Installation of beacons on the ceiling for alignment

Ideally horizontal ceilings do not exist in nature - experienced plasterers believe. If the ceiling is needed not so much horizontal as just visually even, then this step can be skipped to save consumables and perform alignment “by eye” with the rule. Another thing is if the surface of the ceiling is so curved that a global correction is needed. Then the installation of beacons cannot be avoided.

Beacon installation technology consists of the following steps:

1. Level the ceiling. To do this, you need to measure the height of the walls in all corners of the room, find the smallest one and mark the zero level with a pencil. Using a water level, this distance is applied to the remaining (large) corners and a pencil mark is made.
2. With a whitewashed cord on the walls, horizontal lines are beaten off between the marks. This is the mark of the lower boundary of the future corrected ceiling.
3. Under the beacons on the ceiling, you should draw parallel lines with a pencil or simply mark the beginning and end of each profile. We must try to draw lines in high areas in order to reduce the amount of mortar.
4. Carnations are driven into the pencil line and marks in the corners, or screws are screwed in, a fishing line is pulled between them with effort. The number of beacons depends on the size of the room. It will take about 2-3 rows at a distance of 130-180 cm from each other.
5. Beacons are placed along the stretched line. To do this, stepping back 10-15 mm from the wall, a solution is applied from a rotband or fugenfüller, on which a beacon rail is glued.
6. The ends of the lighthouse profile are leveled along the broken line on the wall, then leveled using the building rule and a small level (they can be fastened together with wire).
7. The next row of the beacon profile is located at a distance slightly less than the length of the rule. For example, if the building rule is 1.5 m long, then the distance between the beacons will be approximately 1.3 m.
8. Leave the beacons installed on the ceiling to dry for 2-6 hours, otherwise they can be accidentally knocked down when plastering.

When leveling the ceiling with Rothband, keep in mind that the plaster dries quickly, and the process of installing beacons must be done very conscientiously. To get some margin of time for leveling the beacon profile, it is better to fix it with a regular starting putty.

Features of leveling the ceiling with plaster

Having finished preparing the ceiling for leveling, we proceed to the main stage of finishing - the actual application of plaster. This method is indicated if a perfectly horizontal ceiling surface is not an end in itself. If the ceiling is with a large curvature, but you want an impeccable result, then the use of plaster in this case is not justified, since a large amount of work and material will be required.

Applying plaster to the ceiling

The technology for applying the leveling mixture is as follows:

• The solution is applied with a small spatula to the falcon, then to the ceiling with spreading movements, filling the space between the beacons.
• The entire prepared mixture is laid out and a rough leveling of the plaque is made with a large spatula towards you. The rule should be firmly pressed against the beacon profiles so that there is no excess solution left.
• The layer is leveled with an aluminum rule in zigzag movements towards itself. The recesses left by the rule are immediately filled with mortar.
• If it is necessary to apply several layers, each subsequent layer is applied no earlier than after 20 minutes. The layer is immediately leveled, referring to the level of the beacons.
• After leveling the area between the beacons, after 10-15 minutes, with a sponge moistened in water, the treated area is grouted to impeccable smoothness.
• Hard-to-reach places around pipes and in corners are cut off and leveled with a spatula.
• The ceiling is leveled, it is necessary to remove all the beacons and close up the furrows left by them.
• Check the ceiling for evenness using the rule. Cut off the excess, add where there are holes. Seal the corners and junctions of the ceiling with the walls with a trowel.
• The leveled ceiling should dry for some time until dullness appears. Once the plaster has acquired the desired state, it should be smoothed with a steel spatula or grater in a circular motion.
• To get rid of the need for finishing putty, it is necessary to re-grind the ceiling with P150-170 sandpaper or a metal grater within 24 hours. Moisten the ceiling generously with water beforehand.
• Leveling the ceiling with plaster is almost finished. The surface is almost perfect and ready for painting, gluing, tiling. Smoothness "under zero" can only be achieved by subsequent finishing putty and grinding.

Important! Until the layer of plaster dries, do not open windows to ventilate the room.

Features of working with gypsum plaster

Features of mixing the solution are as follows:

1. Gypsum mixtures quickly harden, so they are prepared in an amount sufficient for half an hour of work.
2. During the plastering of the ceiling, the addition of dry matter, water, and other components to the mixture is unacceptable, as this will upset the balance.
3. To level the ceiling, the solution is made less thick than for walls. Then it sticks better to the surface, and gravity will not cause the plaster to collapse.

Materials of German origin, such as Rotband (Knauf), are especially convenient in the work of leveling the ceiling with your own hands. They allow you to process the ceiling without involving any additional materials. When leveling the ceiling with Rotband, it is important to process the entire ceiling in one day so that the stripes between the beacons do not dry out. So they are easier to dock, and they will not differ from each other.

In this article, we will consider a method for leveling the ceiling with plaster and gypsum mixtures. It is optimal for old apartments with low and uneven ceilings, as it practically does not “remove” heights in comparison with suspension systems.

Foundation preparation

Preparing the base is perhaps the dirtiest and dustiest part of the job when leveling the ceiling with plaster or gypsum mixtures. Where to start work, you ask, and we will answer you - first of all, you need to completely empty the premises. If it is impossible to do this, cover all things with plastic wrap and seal them tightly with adhesive tape, because dust and debris cannot be avoided in any way.

To start, we need:

• Sharp spatula;
• Bucket;
• Washcloth;
• Respirator.

So, let's start repairing our ceiling:

Removing old paint

1. First, no matter how silly it may sound, it is worth starting with destruction. Namely, to remove traces of the last repairs accumulated over the years (read). Remove all layers of whitewash, water-based and other types of paint from the ceiling with a spatula. To do this, everything just needs to be torn off mechanically.

Tip: Alternatively, you can attach a long handle or stick to the spatula, while you will be able to work with two hands, which will greatly facilitate the task.

• To facilitate the task, you can use the so-called "wet method". First dampen the ceiling with water using a roller, brush or spray bottle. Let it soak well and peel it off without waiting for it to dry.

Tip: When peeling off layers of whitewash and plaster, the spatula should be sharp, so it is recommended to sharpen it from time to time.

There are several methods proven over the years that can greatly facilitate our task.:

• Hot water can be used to soften old whitewash.
• Water-based paint will be much easier to remove using an aqueous solution of iodine. To do this, dissolve one vial per bucket (about 10 liters) and saturate the ceiling with this mixture using a roller or brush.
• Paints such as enamels or water-dispersion paints are not washed off with water. They have to be removed only mechanically (read on). You can also make your work easier by using a “grinder” or a drill with a wire nozzle, however, while the amount of dust increases to impossibility.
  There are many products on the market for washing off such paints. They are applied to the surface and after 15-20 minutes are removed with a spatula along with the paint.

Removing plaster

1. The next step is to check the plaster for integrity. All places where the plaster layer staggers or falls off must be removed with a spatula to the ground. Particular attention should be paid to the seams between the panels and tap them with a hammer for reliability.. Indeed, over time, all houses shrink, their panel ceiling “walks” a little and shifts, as a result of which the mortar at the joints begins to fall off. Tap the seams between the floor panels and, if necessary, remove the mortar

Sealing of interpanel seams

1. Now you can proceed directly to the repair of the ceiling. The first step before leveling the ceiling is to seal the seams between the panels.

It's done like this:

• The seam between the panels is filled with mounting foam and left until completely solidified.
• All seams should be treated with a primer for high-quality adhesion of the solution to the concrete surface of the panels.
• Seal the seam between the panels with a "Rotband".
• A sickle mesh is glued to the "Rotband".
• Level the putty at the level of the panels and smooth it. Method for sealing interpanel seams (rusts)

It should be noted that the use of sickle for large and uneven seams does not exclude the appearance of cracks in the future (see). In this case, it would be better to use a plaster fiberglass mesh, gluing it in layers.

Getting ready to level up

1. Now we need to measure the horizontal of the ceiling and set the beacons. But if you don't care about how horizontal your ceiling is, and you just want to remove the differences between the panels, you can skip this step. Without the installation of beacons (when leveling only along the plane), the layer thickness is significantly reduced, which means that less materials will be consumed. True, most people, for some reason of their own, or because of pedantry, cannot come to terms with the idea that their ceiling will be sloping.

In this case, there are several options:

• With a large deviation from the horizontal, only suspended or stretch ceilings can save.
• If the difference is within 5 centimeters, you can use plaster by installing beacons.

Before installing beacons, it is required to determine the lowest point of the ceiling:

• Using a tape measure, measure the distance from floor to ceiling at all corners of the room. The smallest distance will be the lowest point of the ceiling.
• Using a laser level or hydro level, it is necessary to mark the height of this point along the perimeter of the room. It will be easier to do this if you put marks only in the corners and use a chopping cord. To do this, stretch the cord between the marks and, slightly pulling it away from the wall, release it - you get a clear and even line.
• Every 60-80 centimeters, screw self-tapping screws into a line on two opposite walls. Stretch the construction line through the room and, pulling it, tie it to the caps of the self-tapping screws. Such a landmark will greatly simplify the task of installing beacons for us.
• Next, we glue the profile of the lighthouse to the ceiling using the Fugenfüller or Rotband putty using the dot method in increments of 30 centimeters. This refers to the application of dots of putty on the ceiling and gluing the profile by light pressing. All beacons must be aligned along a line stretched perpendicularly.
• The last thing that requires preparation for the application of plaster layers is the cleaning of the putty protruding beyond the beacons and the primer of the entire ceiling.

Leveling with mixtures

1. When the base is ready, you can proceed directly to the application of leveling layers of putty.

They have their own characteristics in the work, which must be mentioned.:

• When mixing putty, do not make a portion more than you can use in 20-25 minutes.
• After the putty is mixed and stood for several minutes, do not add water or dry mix to it. This has a very negative effect on the quality of its structure.
• Do not dry the ceiling in a draft.
• The layer applied at one time should not exceed the allowable value (it is indicated on the bag).

The mixture after kneading is applied to the ceiling with a small spatula and slightly leveled.

Tip: Before applying each layer, it is very important to allow the previous one to dry completely. After all, if the technology is violated, all our work may simply fall off over time, despite the price and quality of the putty.

Each layer should be pulled together using the rule for installed beacons.

1. After the leveling layer has dried, it must be checked using the rule for the absence of irregularities. To do this, simply run the pressed rule along the surface of the ceiling - it should fit completely. All protrusions are removed with sandpaper, and the pits should be puttied.

Ceiling finish

1. The last step will be the sticker of the grid at the joints of the panels and the finishing putty:

• When the leveling layer is ready, it must be treated with a primer.
• Before finishing putty on the ceiling, it is worth sticking fiberglass at the joints of the panels (rusts) to avoid cracks.
• Fiberglass is glued on top of the leveling layer by pressing it into a fresh layer of putty.
• After the putty has dried, carefully remove all the protrusions with a spatula and sand the surface with sandpaper.
• It remains only to apply two more layers of finished finishing putty "Acryl-Putz" or "Shitrok". You can see the process in more detail in the photo below.
• The final sanding will complete all our dusty work on the ceiling.

Painting

Before painting, clean the room from dust and prime the ceiling. It is not necessary to use special primers for this purpose, just apply the first coat with well-diluted paint. The diluent must be selected only as indicated by the manufacturer on the package.. You should not experiment: if the paint is water-based, then only water can be used when diluting it.

Tip: The painted ceiling must not be dried in a draft, as the top layer becomes crusted, while the bottom remains wet and the plastic properties of the coating are destroyed.

We hope that by reading this article, you have learned how to properly level the ceiling. Now do-it-yourself ceiling repair at home will not be any problem.

The condition of the ceiling surface depends on many factors, but it is close to ideal only after a recent repair. In all other cases, on the ceiling - the most visible base of the room - there are defects that homeowners seek to eliminate as quickly and efficiently as possible.

The main criterion for the quality of ceilings is their evenness, if you do not take into account some original methods of finishing, for example, with wooden beams. Only on a leveled base or hiding a defective surface under a masking shell can a decorative or, at least, a classic finish of this structural element of the room be performed. Consider some of the most common ways to level the ceiling with your own hands, depending on the significance of its defects.

Types of ceiling bases

In modern housing construction, beam or beamless reinforced concrete floors are most common, which can be of the following design:

• monolithic;
• prefabricated;
• prefabricated monolithic.

There are other technological solutions - arched brick, tent, wooden and other structures, but homeowners face the problem of leveling such bases much less often.

Monolithic ceilings are made by pouring concrete into the formwork with reinforcement, installed in place - in the interfloor plane.

Prefabricated roof structures are made of prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs (hollow or monolithic) mounted end-to-end on beams or load-bearing walls.

Prefabricated-monolithic floors are a relatively new technology, which consists in the installation of hollow aerated concrete blocks butt-to-beam between beams, on top of which cement mortar is poured, connecting the structure into one.

Each of the methods has both certain advantages and disadvantages, which subsequently need to be neutralized.

Ceiling defects

The degree of need for leveling ceilings after the installation of ceilings depends on many factors, but even with an impeccable performance of the base, it is largely due to the installation technology.

The ceiling surfaces of monolithic reinforced concrete coatings require the least correction - they are located in the same horizontal plane and do not have joints.

The situation is different with prefabricated and prefabricated monolithic structures.

On prefabricated floors, there are differences in the level of the slabs, which can also be located at some small angle to the horizontal. In addition, builders often cut rustication along the seams to mask such installation defects or cracks, which eventually collapse and require repair or sealing.

The prefabricated-monolithic floor structure has a flat surface of the ceiling base, on top of which plastering is performed to hide the joints of the blocks. But the difference in the materials for the manufacture of blocks, mounting mortar and leveling compound causes cracking in the plaster.

Ceilings of any design need ongoing maintenance and repair, but the list and volume of finishing work required for execution can vary significantly depending on the types of defects that require a certain elimination technology.

The complex of finishing works to eliminate defects in ceilings can be combined with a general definition of "alignment", which, depending on the method of execution, will include certain operations.

Methods for leveling ceiling surfaces

In fact, the methods of leveling ceilings can be divided into wet and dry. Wet include leveling with the help of various hardening mixtures, dry - installation of drywall, suspended and stretch ceilings.

Wet and dry leveling methods, of course, differ in the composition of the work required to be performed.

In general, wet leveling methods include:

• removal of poor-quality or worn-out coating;
• sealing old or cutting new rusts;
• filling potholes and cracks;
• bringing the base of the ceilings into a single horizontal plane;
• final leveling of the surface.

Dry methods consist of the following main operations:

• installation of a frame with leveling;
• ceiling installation.

Consider these methods, equally widely used in the repair of ceilings.

Repair of ceilings with leveling compounds

If the ceiling base is concrete, the height of the premises is around 2.5 meters, and there are no large differences in the surface level, then the most rational way to repair is to level the ceiling with special mixtures, since installing the frame will significantly reduce the height of the room.

Surface preparation

The preparatory work is especially important, since the leveling layers will constantly be affected by gravity, aimed at breaking.

If the ceilings are finished with water-based paint, then it must be completely removed. The whitewash is moistened and impregnated with water using a paint roller, after which it is easily removed with a narrow spatula.

If the finishing material is oil paint or enamel, then the amount of work to remove it depends on the condition of the substrate. If the ceilings are even, then the surface is tapped with a hammer, and the paint together with the plaster is removed only where the plaster has peeled off.

In case of differences in height or deviations from the horizontal of the plates, when leveling mixtures have to be applied to them, the oil paint from the ceiling must be completely removed. This is done by a grinder with a dry-cutting steel disk - a layer of paint is peeled off the surface along with a part of the plaster, unevenness in the form of small convex sections can also be removed by a grinder.

Important! Work as a grinder (grinder) is performed in goggles and a respirator.

The joints between the slabs are also cleared of aggregates - damaged rustications are knocked down manually with a chisel and a hammer.

After cleaning up construction debris, the room is ventilated and vacuumed, and then the ceilings are primed with a ready-made hydrophobic primer composition or a 1: 4 proportion of latex prepared by yourself. In this case, it is convenient to apply a primer coating with an airbrush.

After a day, the surface is ready for the application of leveling compounds.

How to level a defective concrete ceiling?

Do-it-yourself ceiling alignment begins with rustication. The gaps in the joints of the plates are filled to the maximum depth with mounting foam, the excess of which, after curing, is cut off with a clerical knife, deepening into the seam by 2-3 cm. A layer of base cement-based leveling mixture is applied over the cut of the mounting foam. If the ceiling plane is flat, has no drops, then after the composition has cured in the embedded rustications, the ceiling is waterproofed, and then the finishing putty is applied with a gypsum-based composition, preferably with preliminary reinforcement over the seams with a serpentine tape.

The number of layers depends on the skill of the performer, usually two layers are applied - the second after the first has cured. Then the surface is polished, cleaned of dust with a vacuum cleaner and covered with a primer.

If the ceiling slabs have differences in height, then the amount of work on leveling increases significantly. At the same time, the range of differences is important, since the decision of the question depends on it, with what exactly, with what mixture to level the ceiling.

It is necessary to proceed from the fact that the ceilings are leveled in a wet way with height differences of up to 50 mm - a plaster layer of even smaller thickness, made with technology violations, is life-threatening when peeling and collapsing.

Plastering ceilings with a cement-sand mortar requires professional skills - it is difficult to apply a freshly prepared mortar to the ceiling base with its fixation on it, and the slightest deviation from the recipe or the correct execution technique leads to a mixture falling. Therefore, taking on the independent execution of this work without practical experience is an empty undertaking. And with height differences of up to 30 mm, leveling the ceiling with your own hands is quite realistic - the characteristics of special mixtures based on cement or gypsum simplify this operation.

Marking the horizontal plane of the ceiling

Under the ceiling surface, you need to designate a horizontal plane, to the level of which it is necessary to lower all points of the base. To do this, first of all, determine the lowest corner of the ceiling. The easiest way to do this is with a laser level - the device is placed in the center of the room, leveled and, by rotating it in a horizontal plane, one mark is applied to the vertical corners of the walls of the room. Then they measure the distances from these marks to the ceiling and choose the smallest value - at this level the new ceiling plane should be located after alignment.

In the absence of a laser level, horizontal marks along the perimeter of the walls under the ceiling can be set using a transparent flexible hose with water - if you fill it with water, then, according to the law of communicating vessels, the liquid levels at the ends of the hose will be located at the same height.

Holes are drilled along the perimeter of the walls at the top and self-tapping screws are screwed in with a step of 0.5 m, along which control cords are pulled along and across the room, forming the plane of the future ceiling.

Important! If some section of the ceiling surface is located below the level of the cords, then it must be cut off with a grinder with a dry cutting disk or lower all control cords to the required value.

Having a contour of the future area, measure the maximum thickness of the layer required to be applied to level the base. If this value is from 30 to 50 mm, then, as mentioned above, it is better to entrust this work to professionals who will plaster the ceilings with cement-sand mortar. If the layer does not exceed 30 mm, then you can level the ceiling in the apartment yourself using cement and gypsum mixtures.

Construction of control beacons

It is better to make a layer with a thickness of 20 to 30 mm from a cement-based mixture, laying it on a reinforcing steel mesh, fixed to the ceiling with brackets or fixed with self-tapping screws. The reinforcement will exclude the collapse of the layer even in case of its delamination from the base due to some factors.

Beacons are installed on top of the grid - rows of cones made of cement mixture with a height equal to the distance to the cord in this place. After the cones have cured, they are connected with the same mixture in such a way that even and smooth guides for the rule are obtained, which will remove the excess of the subsequently applied composition.

The leveling composition prepared according to the instructions is applied to the base with a wide spatula, if necessary, in layers, after the mixture of the previous application has cured and dried. At the same time, the surface of the previous layer must be “combed” before setting - draw a notched trowel over it to create a profile to which the next layer will adhere more firmly.

Important! It is impossible to accelerate the process of curing and drying of the plaster or by creating a draft or by increasing the temperature in the room.

After completely filling the gaps between the guides, excess plaster is removed by drawing the rule over a fresh, slightly seized layer - the fixture is led along the guides, pressing against them and at the same time performing movements in transverse directions. The shells remaining after the rule are filled with the same solution and overwritten.

The alignment of the ceilings is completed by applying the finishing putty - this is done in two or three layers with intermediate drying and removal of convex traces from the movements of the spatula. Then the surface is polished with sandpaper fixed on a flat bar or a special holder. The polished base is primed with one of the hydrophobic compounds, after which the surface is whitewashed or the surface is finished with decorative tiles.

Alignment of plasterboard ceilings

This method of repairing ceilings is less laborious and, unlike plastering, does not require strong practical skills, although there are enough rules in this technology, non-observance of which is fraught with damage to the coating soon after finishing.

Foundation preparation

Exfoliated putty and plaster are removed from the ceilings, ceiling rusts are freed from old filling materials and sealed after priming, along with significant potholes. Then the ceiling is completely waterproofed - this will reduce the consequences in case of flooding from above, since drywall, even moisture resistant, is not designed for direct contact with water.

Frame plane marking

Consider the design of the simplest, even plasterboard ceiling, as many other, more complex types of design are used.

Along the perimeter of the room at a certain distance from the ceiling (depending on the choice of the design of the future finish), using a level or a transparent hose with water, marks are applied to the starting level - a horizontal line along which the boundary profiles will be installed.

On the ceiling, the layout of the frame parts is marked, which can be of two types:

• a solid crate with cells measuring 60x60 cm - the junction of two adjacent plasterboards should be located on the same profile, along it;
• linear arrangement of profiles - for longitudinal installation of gypsum boards along them with a distance between parallel guides of 40 cm, and transverse jumpers are mounted only under the joints of the sheets.

Material consumption calculation

Both frame designs are reliable, so the one that, with the specific dimensions of the room, will require less material consumption is selected.

According to the markup, the calculation of the need for material is performed:

• ud-profile - along the perimeter of the room plus 20%;
• cd-profile - the total length of the jumpers on the ceiling plus 20%;
• suspensions - based on a step of 60 cm.

The standard dimensions of a drywall sheet are 2.5 x1.2 (m). With a simple ceiling configuration (flat, single-level), a sketch with dimensions is drawn and the GKL is assembled on it, taking into account the design of the selected frame.

The number of self-tapping screws for mounting drywall is taken as 100 pieces per 1 sheet.

Screws with hollows - twice the number of hangers plus the cost of mounting the ud-profile in increments of 40 cm.

Frame installation

Work begins with the installation of ud-profiles around the perimeter of the room along the starting level. Then, suspensions are attached to the ceiling according to the marking of the frame with screws, which, after installing the cd-profiles, will be bent for attaching jumpers to them with self-tapping screws.

The connection of perpendicularly located elements of the frame is performed using a special cross - "crab". To increase the profile in length, a special device is also used, but you can do without it - make an overlay on the part of the next fragment with an overlap of 10 cm and side fastening with self-tapping screws.

In a room with a flat, but not smooth ceiling, metal profiles can be replaced with wooden bars, but they need to be treated with an antiseptic and primed with nitro-varnish to protect against moisture.

Plasterboard laying

GKL installation is best done together, so as not to make special T-shaped supports.

Sheets are cut by cutting the product on one side with a clerical knife along the ruler, followed by a break in the direction of the cut.

If the humidity in the room is high, then moisture-resistant drywall is used - with the GKLV marking and a green shell. In addition, the cutting surfaces of the sheets are covered with a primer nitro-lacquer - gypsum is hygroscopic. It will not be superfluous to cover the GKLV with a layer of hydrophobic composition on the inside - this will save the sheets from deformation with a slight leak from above to the stone base.

Basic rules for installing drywall on a frame:

• a gap of 2-3 mm is left between the sheet and the wall;
• installation of elements is carried out in a checkerboard pattern so that the transverse joints of the gypsum plasterboard do not match;
• fixing screws are screwed in in increments of 15-20 cm, also in a checkerboard pattern, deepening the cap into the sheet by 1 mm to hide it later with putty;
• a chamfer is removed from the ends of the GKL sections at the joints at an angle of 30-40 degrees (with nitro-lacquer treatment) for the possibility of subsequent filling with the mixture to the full depth.

Plastering plasterboard ceilings

The ceiling mounted from GKL with the help of a paint roller or spray gun is primed at the joints with a latex-based composition.

A day after priming, it is necessary to putty drywall, starting with filling the joints along the perimeter of the walls and between the sheets, on which the chamfer was removed before installation. Joints with a narrow spatula are filled with a special mixture, for example, "Fugenfüller", at the same time covering with putty the caps of self-tapping screws recessed into the sheet. A reinforcing serpentine tape is laid over the layer of freshly laid putty along the seams, which is sunk into the mixture with a spatula and additionally coated on top with the same composition.

The ceiling is given time to dry (1-2 days), after which the putty is treated with sandpaper over the sickle at the seams and in other areas where it was used. The polished base is primed over the entire area, and the ceiling is ready for painting or other type of finish.

Leveling the ceiling with plastic tiles

Another way to level ceilings is to install strip or rectangular plastic tiles. The essence of the principle is the same - the creation of an additional shell below the ceiling, which will hide the defects of the supporting base.

The technology of laying tiles resembles the installation of drywall:

• ground preparation;
• frame installation;
• laying tiles.

At the same time, the edges of the tiles are made with a locking device, eliminating the need to putty them after installation.

It is not difficult to veneer an uneven ceiling with plastic tiles even alone - by analogy with drywall, a frame is mounted, which is more convenient to make from wooden blocks - the tile is attached to it with small nails hammered into the bottom.

The advantages of this method are that PVC tiles are not afraid of water, are easy to maintain on a daily basis and are available in the entire price range.

Dropped ceilings

This type of work can be considered not only as a way to level ceilings, but also as an independent type of finish, the main purpose of which is the artistic lining of the ceiling base, while its alignment is a passing result.

The method is far from always budgetary, except to consider a variety of suspended ceilings made of drywall. Suspended structures require a significant ceiling height, as well as professional skills, since, depending on the characteristics of the room, the finishing frames may differ in both the material of execution and the method of installation.

Therefore, there can be no universal instruction on how to level ceilings by installing a suspended finish - each specific case needs an individual approach.

Stretch ceiling

This is another technology that allows you to hide an unaesthetic ceiling base under a decorative shell. Stretch ceilings differ in the material of manufacture (elastic, fabric), the method of fastening to the base and artistic performance.

Without professional skills, it is not reasonable to take on leveling the ceiling with your own hands using this material - correcting mistakes made during the installation process reduces the aesthetics of performance, and the cost of such a cladding is quite high.

Conclusion

Since there are many ways to make an uneven ceiling even, when deciding to do it yourself, you should choose a technology that is close to your existing skills. Even being far from painting or plastering, you can level the ceiling by applying monotonous, often spaced strokes of putty, which will hide defects that were previously noticeable on a relatively flat surface. Therefore, if desired, you can find a correction method that is available both in technical design and in terms of cost.

The main gist of the article:

1. Ceilings are an integral factor in evaluating the aesthetics of home decoration.
2. An analysis of surface defects is necessary when choosing a leveling method.
3. Concrete ceilings are the most common ceiling design.
4. Budget technologies for leveling concrete foundations.
5. A variety of ways to level ceilings allows even non-professionals to do this.

• Ceiling plastering
• Grouting a plastered surface

In order to describe as clearly as possible how to plaster the ceiling with your own hands, let's take a small room as an example. For this we need the following materials:

• laser or water level;
• rule;
• lighthouses;
• gypsum plaster;
• self-tapping screws with a dowel;
• gypsum plaster.

Plastering tools.

Before you start plastering, you need to carefully mark and prime the surface.

Marking the surface of the ceiling and its primer

First you need to correctly mark the ceiling.

Beacons on the ceiling should be placed in the direction of light falling from the window.

This is necessary so that if some kind of error occurs when installing the beacons (most often the middle beacon is installed with a violation), then it would not be so noticeable. Such subtleties must be taken into account, because when placing beacons across the room, the light falling from the window will reveal such an error.

Scheme for marking a room with beacons.

Beacons are installed depending on the width of the room. Up to three meters - two rows of beacons are placed, each row is installed at a distance of about 60 cm from the walls. The process of plastering ceilings with your own hands takes place in the following sequence: first, the middle strip is plastered, then two side strips. In rooms with a width of 3 to 5 m, beacons are placed in three rows. If the width of the room is more than 5 m, then there can be four rows, and so on.

As an example, we took a room 3.5 m wide, so we need to install three beacon rows. We install two rows near the walls, retreating from them about 20 cm, and put the last one along the center of the room, thus, as if dividing it in two. In this case, you can start the plastering process in the direction from the center of the room to its wall. In this case, the length of the rule allows you to do this. The first beacon in each row should be about 2.5 m, slightly less than the length of the plaster rule. The size of the second can be any.

Then it is necessary to note in which places the self-tapping screws will be screwed in, they are needed for the correct marking of the difference in heights in the room. On the ceiling, for your convenience, you can immediately write where which beacon will be located, so as not to re-measure them. After the marks for the self-tapping screws are applied, using a perforator, we make holes in the places of the marks and determine the dowels in these holes.

The sequence of applying primer layers to the ceiling: 1 - the first layer; 2 - the second layer; 3 - the direction of the rays of light from the window.

Before you start screwing in the screws, you need to treat the entire ceiling with a primer. There are a lot of primers for plastering work in hardware stores, so choose it in accordance with the surface that you are going to plaster. If the surface is smooth, then a stronger primer is needed, such as betokontakt. When processing the surface, you should not spare the primer. After you have completely processed the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling, you need to let it dry.

When the primer is dry, you will need to find the lowest point in the room. To find this point, you can use a laser level, if you do not have one, then a simple, water level will do. To measure the water level, you need to bind it to the rule and measure it, starting from the corner of the room, while marking the height level of each section near each hole for self-tapping screws. The purpose of these measurements is to find the lowest point where the thinnest layer of plaster will be. If you make a mistake when measuring, then the plaster may be overused, the layer will come out very thick. Or at the end of the work, you can rest against the plane of the ceiling, on which even the thinnest layer of plaster cannot be applied.

Methods for applying decorative plaster on the ceiling.

When the lowest place near the drilled holes is found, we screw in the self-tapping screw there so that it peeks out by about 5-7 mm. This thickness has a plaster beacon. Since the self-tapping screw was screwed into the lowest point of our ceiling, the other self-tapping screws will peek out a little more. We take the second self-tapping screw and screw it in at approximately the same level as the first. We check the horizontal line between them using the rule, we check the second self-tapping screw with a water level relative to the first.

Depending on what the level shows, we screw in or unscrew the screw, while not forgetting to check each action with a level. In the same way, we adjust the following screws, be sure to check the level between them. To markup using a water level, you will have to spend about 2 hours of your time. With laser, everything is much simpler, the whole process will take about 20 minutes.

Back to index

Ceiling plastering

Rotband plaster has the following features: it is impossible to apply more than 1.5 cm of plaster, while the second layer cannot be applied either. Such rules exist in European countries. With us, everything is much more prosaic, most often a second layer is applied up to 5 cm thick.

The principle of plastering the ceiling is the same as that of plastering walls, that is, apply plaster to the ceiling and remove excess. You can apply the solution with different tools, depending on the thickness of the layer. If the layer thickness is less than 1.5 cm, then it is better to use a steel trowel.

Scheme of applying plaster with a crumb gun.

It is necessary to impose a small amount of the solution on it and gently smear it on the ceiling with light movements with pressure. If your layer is more than 1.5 cm, then it is better to work with a spatula. When you mix the solution, you need to remember that a solution that is too thick will be poorly applied to the ceiling and fall off under its own weight. Therefore, the solution must be made not quite thick so that it adheres better to the surface.

If the thickness of the solution is large, so-called bubbles may appear. These are places where the solution did not adhere to the surface of the ceiling, it sagged under its own weight, and thus an air bubble formed. Most often, such bubbles appear in the corners. To avoid this, you must first apply a thin layer of plaster, and then apply the main one. The point is that the solution adheres very well to the solution and no voids are formed.

The second layer must be applied before the first one dries to better bond the layers. If you apply a second layer after the first one has dried, then cracks may form on the surface of the plaster, and you will have to remove the entire layer so that it does not fall off later on. And with bubbles it is even easier, you need to wait until the solution dries up and remove the place of its formation with a spatula to the very base. And then put a new plaster on this place.

The plastering process is best done with your back to the window, so the light will not bother you. Removal of excess solution occurs by moving the rule or trowel towards itself. The finishing movement, on the contrary, is done from oneself, so the light from the window will allow you to see the gaps between the plaster and the rule and quickly respond to possible problems.

After applying the plaster to the main places of the surface, there may be places along the walls that have not yet been plastered, you also need to remember to unscrew the screws. They can prevent you from leveling the mortar with a rule, and after grouting they can be visible even under a layer of putty. Holes from them and places along the walls are sealed after the plaster dries. After that, we remove all beacons and close up the resulting furrows.

Whether it is necessary to plaster the ceiling is up to you. You can always use other finishing materials, but plaster remains the most popular material to this day. In principle, this coating can be applied to any material with your own hands and then the price will not be significant.

Today we will talk about the implementation of this work in detail. Also on the video in this article and the photo you will see the most difficult moments and this will greatly speed up the work.

What is attractive plaster

What kind of plaster to choose for the ceiling is decided primarily on the material of manufacture of the ceiling itself. After all, today it can be several materials. It is also worth understanding how much this coating is suitable for your case, it is probably better to just make a lining with another material. So let's immediately figure out what we will achieve by applying this coating.

Pros:

• This is the most economical option. Plaster allows you to ennoble the ceiling without large financial investments. Cassette and stretch ceilings are much more expensive than building mixtures.
• Almost all plaster solutions are environmentally friendly for humans and the environment. After all, neither cement nor gypsum emit any substances harmful to health.
• Plastering the ceiling has another indisputable advantage - it does not hide the height of the room. The thickness of the plaster layer does not exceed 5 centimeters.
• It is worth noting that suspended and stretch ceiling coverings also slightly reduce the height of the room. It depends on what materials are chosen.

• • Plastering the ceiling surface does not require large expenditures if it is done on its own. If you use the services of a master, then you will have to pay a lot of money for the work. After all, this work is quite expensive.
  • Plastering hides differences in the levels of ceiling surfaces and walls only within a limited range of 5 cm. The reason for this is not so much the colossal consumption of building material as a threat to life. A thick layer of plaster may not stay on the ceiling and, falling, cause irreparable damage to human health, even death.
  • For plastering, you must have experience in performing this type of work.. Many types of suspended ceilings can be installed quite well even by a person who has never done this before. But plastering large surfaces is unlikely to be within the power of a beginner. From the first time it is very difficult to achieve a smooth ceiling surface, which is necessary for painting (see How to paint the ceiling with paint: do it yourself).

How to do plastering

What are the first steps to be taken when plastering the ceiling surface, now we will consider. Here, the ceiling material is in the first place, and the preparation of the plane will depend on it.

Surface inspection

First of all, you need to decide: is ceiling plaster really necessary?

• If the surface level differences are five millimeters or less, then you can get by with just puttying the ceiling. To do this, use a wide spatula and the rule.
• If the differences are more than five centimeters, then plastering is a danger to humans. Beginners should limit the plaster layer to a level of 3 centimeters.

Surface preparation for plaster

Consider the most unfavorable option: the old plaster layer is destroyed in places and has fungal infections, the ceiling surface is replete with numerous cracks and height differences.

How to prepare the surface in this situation:

• First you need to moisten the entire surface to be treated with water. The procedure should be repeated twice with a frequency of 2 - 3 hours. This will soften the old plaster layer so that it can be removed more easily in the future. Wetting significantly reduces dust levels.
• Using a hard spatula, you need to clean the ceiling surface so that the floor slabs are visible. To clean difficult areas, use a perforator. The seams between the plates must be freed from plaster, which is weakly held.
• The remaining cement dust and lime can be washed off with a sponge dipped in water.
• At the next stage, the areas affected by the mold fungus are treated. The minimum surface area to be treated should be 20 cm. In rooms with high humidity, the entire ceiling is treated.

Attention: It should be noted that any liquid containing chlorine in its composition is suitable for the destruction of mold and fungus (this can be an ordinary “Whiteness” or a similar agent). But the antiseptic primer, in addition to getting rid of the fungus, does not allow it to appear again. In this case, the savings are inappropriate.

• The final stage of preparatory work includes priming the ceiling surface with any primer. This will strengthen the outer concrete layer and improve its setting with the plaster mixture.

Which plaster to choose

It's no secret that plastering concrete ceilings is significantly different from how plaster is applied to a clay ceiling. It just uses different ingredients.

The preparation of the solution and the application rules will depend on them. Let's immediately consider what we eat on the sales market and why a certain composition is better suited. On each package there is of course an instruction that should be studied, but you also need to approach some features of the material.

Cement-based plaster mixes

If you are thinking about how to plaster a concrete ceiling, then this composition is suitable in most cases. The highest strength and long service life distinguishes plaster for ceiling surfaces based on cement.