How to attach joists to round posts. Do-it-yourself wooden fence on metal posts: design features

In order for the erected fence to fully meet expectations, it is important to take into account a number of basic factors during its construction: quality choice material, special tool and professional installation is the key to your success. Whether you plan to arrange the site yourself or use the help of specialized specialists, use the advice of a fence construction expert and instructions on how to do it correctly.

Slopes, holes, ditches, ravines and hummocks are the natural character of the land's topography. Therefore, if you need a fence made of corrugated sheets “without steps” on top, it is better to level the area before starting construction. To do this, you need to bring in soil and, using special equipment, level it. This is a labor-intensive and expensive process. Moreover, it is quite long-lasting, since over time the earth will settle and part of it will be washed away surface waters(melt water, rain) or blown away by the wind onto the neighboring territory. The soil will have to be brought in again. And only after this should you build a fence, otherwise, if you add and level the soil after installation, you can hit it and damage it with a tractor (large equipment) or move it with a pile of leveled soil. Ninety percent of the summer cottages where our company installed corrugated fences had an uneven ground surface. The photographs below show the results of the professional skills of skilled builders.

The masters of our company carefully and competently navigate slopes and uneven surfaces. A fence made of corrugated sheets with steps looks absolutely normal and natural given the height difference on the site. With wooden fences or chain-link fences, everything is simpler: the posts can be driven in along the relief, the mesh can be pulled along the slope, the boards can be nailed down, evenly lowered or raised, based on the characteristics of the construction site.

This is solely the desire of the owners summer cottage, paying the cost of the fencing. Someone is guided by considerations of safety and frame care, leaving inner side fence for themselves, others in good relations with neighbors and counting on the greater attractiveness of the colored side, they choose outside inside to the site. In any case, I would like to note that when choosing one-sided corrugated sheeting, the verified straight lines of the red-brown fence frame also look good on the white-gray side of the corrugated sheet.

Why do most companies paint the corrugated fence frame with a red-brown primer?

Metal primer GF-021 comes in two colors: red-brown and gray. And in any case, the frame of the metal parts of the fence must be tinted to prevent rust from creeping in. Most people do not do this regularly, as a result, rust is very noticeable against a gray background and is striking in its inappropriateness. With a red-brown coating, this is not noticeable; you can tint it based on your strengths and desires; besides, pillars and joists in this color look original on the white-gray side of the corrugated sheeting.

How to prevent theft of corrugated fence sheets?

In these troubled times, owners beautiful fences made from corrugated sheets, they are afraid that the corrugated sheet may be removed by intruders. There are two types of fastening it to the frame: with rivets or self-tapping screws. The following can be said about rivets: over time, under constant wind load, the aluminum part of the rivet wears out, which requires its complete replacement. They are also easy to cut. It is better to attach the corrugated sheet to self-tapping screws with a press washer that is larger in diameter than the head of the rivet. This will allow you to press the sheet better and it will not rattle when strong winds. To prevent the self-tapping screw from being unscrewed, its head must be covered cold welding or drill out. Additionally, you can use long self-tapping screws or bolts and secure them on the back side of the vein with nuts or welding. This will make it difficult to remove corrugated sheeting from the fence, and if it is stolen, there will be a significant decrease in quality, since when installed in another place it cannot be installed through the same holes.

Construction of a wooden fence is not difficult: with the help of nails and self-tapping screws, you can fasten everything - veins, picket fences, boards, hang gates and wickets. This is exactly what they do when the length of the fence is short and it is of a decorative nature, for example, when fencing a front garden.

To make a fence around the site, more durable materials are also used - for example, brick or metal. And in this case, difficulties always arise in attaching the fence elements to each other. How to weld logs to poles? Is it possible to do without welding? What types of brackets are there and can you make them yourself? How to provide correct location prozhilin?

How to weld veins?

Let's consider options for fastening veins from profile pipe 40x20 mm for posts made of different materials. This is today the most popular way to build a fence quickly and at the lowest cost. Correctly fasten the logs for the fence; filling the space between the posts will not be difficult. For this, corrugated sheets are usually used. different sizes and waveforms.

1. An option when the veins run in a continuous line along the entire fence. How many there are is determined by the height of the fence. The lower logs are fixed 30 cm from the ground, the upper ones 30 cm from the top of the sheet. At a height of more than 2 meters, an additional vein in the middle is recommended. The logs are pressed with clamps to posts made of profile or regular metal pipe, check the horizontal position with a level and weld it. The next section of the profile is joined end-to-end; the seam does not have to be placed on the post. With this method there is virtually no waste. If the pillars are made of a different material ( asbestos cement pipe, concrete), then the veins are attached to brackets or strips of metal pre-fixed on poles. Installing such posts is a troublesome task. The brackets must be at the same level. Another way is to make clamps from strip steel and install them on the pole in the desired location.
2. A sectional fence looks prettier. solid line corrugated sheeting is divided into equal intervals by columns, the appearance of which must be impeccable. Usually a pipe Ø75-100 mm or a square 60x60 mm or more is used. In this case, the veins are cut according to the distance between the posts (2.5-3 m) and welded to the posts in such a way that after attaching the profiled sheet or picket fence they do not “protrude.” To do this, take into account the wave height of the material.

Disadvantages of fastening by welding

Firstly, you must have welding machine and be able to use it. All metal parts of the fence are painted in advance. At welding work coverage is broken finished products. Welding areas must be thoroughly cleaned, primed and painted with two layers of paint. Certain difficulties are caused by installing the veins at the level: without an assistant, it is difficult to weld the logs for the fence and secure the corrugated sheets.

If you have a fence open type(picket fence, wickerwork), then there are more requirements for the appearance of welds.

Fastening without welding

There are two ways to fasten veins without welding: with bolts and nuts and with the help of special brackets.

Bolted connections must be prepared: marked, holes drilled. Then sometimes you have to hide the head of the bolt. Yes, and this is not always possible.

Fastening with X-brackets is very convenient.

They are produced in several variants, but they differ only in the accuracy of execution. This is a cross-shaped design with curved different planes edges and with holes for fastening. The vertical part “hugs” a 60x60 mm fence post, and a vein is placed in the horizontal part. After checking the correct level of installation through the mounting holes, the bracket is screwed to the post, then the vein is fixed. The connection is ready. The next vein is inserted, set horizontally, and the process is repeated on the adjacent post. All fence logs are secured in the same way.

Ease of mounting with brackets

Brackets are produced for external and internal fastening to posts, for connecting profiles along the length; with their help you can “rotate” the fence. The main size is for posts 60x60 and veins 40x20, but X-brackets are also produced for other sizes of profile pipe. Assembly is done quickly using roofing screws. You can just as quickly remove it and correct the error or use it in another place. Steel 2 mm, protective covering guarantee long term operation, and replacement during repair is very simple.

Homemade brackets

You can make a bracket for attaching the logs yourself. To do this, it is enough to weld two channels of suitable size at right angles and drill mounting holes. It may not be as pretty, but it will get the job done.

The most convenient combination of sizes and materials are fence posts and logs made from profile pipes 60x60 mm (80x80 mm) and 40x20 mm. It is easy to purchase all the mounting elements for them: fasteners, decorations, plugs.

• Carefully level the veins and pillars.
• Try to place connecting seams on the posts, especially if the fence is not continuous.
• Don't forget to treat weld seams.
• Observe safety precautions when working with tools.

It's about simple fence from C8 corrugated sheet without any frills: pillars 3m 60x60, 3x meter spans, logs 40x20, two-meter corrugated sheeting 0.4mm.
If you search on the Internet, you will immediately find two main methods of attaching lags (veins) to fence posts: welding and various brackets (nowadays it is fashionable to call it an X-bracket). In my case: welding, due to its absence, was no longer needed. Brackets are a waste of money in my opinion. In fact - no need to be clever - put two flat surfaces: a 60x60 post and a 40x20 joist - put them next to each other and fasten them together: either with a bolt or with a self-tapping screw...

I’m not the only one who’s so smart—there’s similar advice on the Internet. We recommend an M8x90 bolt with a nut. In this method, I was worried about the protruding head of the bolt - what if a wave of the corrugated sheet does not hit it?...

In the end, I took M6x90 screws with a countersunk head. With a drill with a diameter of 6.5 mm, the outer hole in the vein when drilling a joist and a post is just broken down to a suitable size. And the screw head does not fall through, and this design does not protrude too high.
It is better to tighten the nut with a washer and a lock washer, but... the length of the 90 mm screw was not enough to install the lock washer - I had to do without it.
The shear and tensile strength of M6 screws is one and a half times worse than that of M8, but the “plates” show that even in the worst case, when choosing a lousy screw material, the safety margin should be sufficient. In my case, a 6m long fence section (approximately 60-70 kg) is supported by three posts (six M6 screws).

Wooden logs are required to ensure natural ventilation underground space and better heat retention in rooms. Thanks to the use of lag flooring will last much longer. However, among people who do not have much experience in the construction business, you can often hear the question of whether it is necessary to attach the logs to concrete floor? Experienced craftsmen know that for a truly durable flooring that does not change its geometry under load, and for its long service life, it is imperative to correctly fix the logs on any supporting structure, including on a concrete screed.

Now that it is clear whether it is necessary to attach the joists to the concrete floor, it is worth noting that this task is not difficult, does not require special skills and knowledge, and, therefore, can be done by any home craftsman.

• Materials and tools
  • Fasteners
  • Tips for choosing lags
  • Tools
• Methods for installing joists on a concrete floor
  • Fastening the log to a metal corner
  • Attaching the joists to concrete pillars
• Step-by-step instructions for attaching joists to concrete with your own hands
• Step between joists

Materials and tools

Fasteners

The question of how to secure joists to a concrete floor has different answers: simple or adjustable designs. The latter use special screws, by tightening which the logs can be leveled. In addition, the choice fastening elements and fastening methods depend on what kind of logs are used.

Most often, the lags are fastened to the concrete floor with metal anchors or self-tapping screws with polypropylene dowels, the dimensions of which are selected depending on the cross-section of the selected beam for the lags.

The choice between anchor nails or self-tapping screws is determined by the following:

• Self-tapping screws are cheaper, of course, but anchors are more reliable. In practice, fastening with self-tapping screws is almost always sufficient.
• The advantage of anchors is that in addition to fixing the beams, they tightly press the logs to the base. This becomes especially important when the finishing coating is quite heavy and is regularly exposed to mechanical stress - this must be taken into account when choosing the method of how to properly attach the joists to the concrete floor.

At modern technologies the logs under the wooden floor could not be secured at all, however, such a solution would greatly increase the likelihood of the floor covering being skewed or the logs moving from their original location. Therefore, when it comes to fastening lags, it is best to rely on old methods that have been time-tested more than once.

However, fastening may not help if low-quality or unsuitable lumber or incorrect fasteners are chosen for the work.

When choosing logs for a concrete floor, you need to pay attention to the following points:

• type of wood;
• type of lumber;
• length and section;
• price.

For reasons of economic feasibility, you should not take expensive wood, because spruce, fir or pine are correct processing can last no less. Doesn't have special significance and the appearance of the material, however, it is necessary to discard specimens eaten by grinders or blackened by mold. Evenness of tone and correct geometry of the lag are of less importance. For this work, grades B and BC with a humidity not exceeding 20% ​​are suitable. As is customary to work with lumber, they should be stored in a dry room for some time so that they equalize the humidity with the surrounding atmosphere.

All wooden elements Before attaching the joists to the concrete floor, you need to thoroughly soak it with an antiseptic.

Tools

Since the task is how to lay logs on a concrete floor, you will have to use the following tools in your work:

• Drill and hammer drill.
• Carpentry tools: a circular saw, hacksaw, plane.

In addition, you will have to spend money on waterproofing, which must be spread over the entire surface of the concrete. When calculating the amount of material, you need to add another 10-15 cm overlap to the floor area.

Methods for installing joists on a concrete floor

Methods for attaching joists to a concrete floor come down to four main options, after familiarizing yourself with which, any master can choose the most suitable one for himself.

This the simplest way fastening the lag, but, unfortunately, it is not suitable in every situation.

1. First, you need to drill holes in the timber to match the diameter of the plastic dowel, and use a hammer drill to make a counter hole in the concrete.
2. Then the dowels are driven in with a hammer, after which self-tapping screws are screwed into them or dowel-nails are driven deep into the ceiling.
3. The head of the screw should plunge a few centimeters into the hole.

People often ask, what step of attaching the joists to the concrete floor is better? There is no strict standard here - the step can vary from 40 cm to 80 cm, but on average you can safely focus on half a meter.

The logs will hold securely enough only when there is a small gap between the base and the beam. This should definitely be taken into account by those who want to know how to properly lay joists on a concrete floor.

Anchors, unlike self-tapping screws, not only firmly fix the joists, but also attract them to the concrete surface. Thanks to this installation wooden beams will hold more securely, which is why most craftsmen prefer to use anchors. In addition, this powerful fastener will restrain the deformation of the wood to a certain extent, especially if it has not been sufficiently dried beforehand. But it is much more difficult to pull an anchor out of a concrete base than to drive it in, so workers will have to spend a lot of effort during dismantling.

Be that as it may, when using anchors, the floor covering will not swell, but it may sag. To avoid the latter, it is necessary to install gaskets more often.

1. Installation of logs on a concrete floor here begins with drilling through holes in the beam.
2. Then, opposite each of them, counter holes are made in the concrete.
3. After that anchor bolt inserted into both holes and tightened with a spanner or open-end wrench. It is important not to overtighten the bolt, otherwise it will bend the beam, especially when there is a gap in this place. Then and on finishing field there will be a depression here.

Before installing the anchor, you need to drill a hole in the beam larger diameter so that the bolt head fits there.

The anchors should be spaced at intervals of 60-100 cm, and their length should be sufficient for them to penetrate approximately 6 cm into the concrete. Most often, anchors with a diameter of 10 mm are used. Typically one joist is held in place by 4-5 anchors.

Video about attaching joists to a concrete floor with anchors:

Fastening the log to a metal corner

It becomes inconvenient to work with logs 10 or more centimeters high. To fasten them, it is better to use steel corners, which will touch the joist with one shelf and the concrete base with the other. In this case, fixation is carried out: to the concrete - with dowel-nails, and to the timber - with self-tapping screws. In this case, the main load should fall on the gaskets, and not on the fastening elements, because the corners should only fix the position of the beam.

In order for the lag to be better bonded to the surface, you need to use self-tapping screws whose threads do not reach the head.

You can also attach wooden elements to a concrete base using a galvanized steel corner. The installation process is as follows:

1. Attach the corner to the joist using self-tapping screws, which should go at least 30 mm into the wood.
2. Attach the corner to the concrete base using dowels.

Video on how to secure joists to a concrete floor with corners:

There is another option for attaching joists to a concrete floor. For this, a rectangular stand is used, which is attached to the base with four dowels. In the middle of this stand there is a pin that pierces the beam through and through.

By rotating the nut located under the beam, you can accurately set its height, and use the upper nut to fix the element in the required position.

This system is not that difficult to install; it is attached to the floor with dowels, and you will need to make a hole in the joist for a pin. The frequency of installation of stands under it depends on the cross-section of the log; however, in any case, it is not recommended to make an interval of more than 1 meter. This option of attaching the log to a concrete base, although recognized as optimal, however, due to its high cost, has not become very popular.

After fixing the logs, a subfloor made of boards, OSB or similar materials is laid on them. If the work is done efficiently, the appearance of the finished floor can be impeccable.

Attaching joists to concrete pillars

Logs are attached to concrete pillars in the same way. The same fasteners are used here, but intended for poles.

1. The pillars need to be waterproofed in advance by coating them with simple bitumen or bitumen mastic. The upper cut of the pillars can be waterproofed by placing pieces of roofing material pre-cut according to its configuration on it.
2. Also, in advance, you need to make holes in the bases of the pillars and in the timber into which to drive a dowel or anchor spacer.
3. The beam is attached to the post with a self-tapping screw, the length of which is 2-3 times the width of the spacer.
4. The timber can also be attached with special metal plates equipped with screws. For this purpose, they are screwed to the base of the posts with dowel nails, and a through hole is drilled in the joist, into which you will then need to insert a screw and screw the joist to the top of the posts. Thanks to this, the lag will hold tighter.

Step-by-step instructions for attaching joists to concrete with your own hands

Attaching wooden joists to a concrete floor is easy, even on your own. There are several mounting options, and below are the steps of one of the standard methods.

1. Lay waterproofing (roofing felt or simple PVC film) on the concrete base. The joints between the pieces must be secured with special tape.

1. Next, you need to lay out the logs along the floor in a certain step. This step will depend on the material from which the finishing flooring will be made: when using a 25x100 mm tongue and groove board, the logs can be laid with an indent of 70-80 cm, but for other materials the step will need to be reduced to 40 cm.
2. If the length of the material is not enough to cover the entire room, then the elements can be joined using an iron angle or by making cuts that form a connection into a root tenon.
3. Before installing the joists on the concrete floor, you need to take care of the outermost joists that will be located near the walls. They must be laid level, clearly leveling their height by placing them under the beams wooden planks or pieces of plywood. Most convenient to use laser level. When the outermost logs are fixed, a nylon thread is stretched between them, which will serve as a guide when installing the remaining logs.
4. To attach timber to a concrete floor, you need to make holes in both. You need to drive a dowel or steel anchor spacer into the hole in the concrete. Each joist must be fixed with at least four anchors, and the screws must be placed 40-60 cm from each other.

1. You need to prepare levelers for the joists in advance - cut chipboard or plywood into even strips. With the help of these elements, the joist structure is fixed in a level position (pieces of plywood are simply placed under the joists if you need to raise them) so that the finishing coating on it does not creak or move.

1. If in concrete base If, on the contrary, there are bulges, then you will have to level the lag not by placing plywood under it, but by selecting part of the material from below using a plane.
2. When all the logs are installed in their places, thermal insulation should be laid between them, for example, expanded clay.

1. Before covering with the topcoat, you should think about laying the necessary communications. It is also advisable to use a vapor barrier layer.

Step between joists

How to properly lay joists on a concrete floor, if for finishing coating will be used different materials? Below is the relationship between the thickness of the floor boards and the distance between the joists:

• with a board thickness of 20 mm, there should be a distance of 20 cm between the logs;
• for boards 25 mm thick, a step of 50 cm will be required;
• for 25 mm – 60 cm;
• for 40 mm – 70 cm;
• for 45 mm – 80 cm;
• for 50 mm – 100 cm.

If the floor is plywood, then the step between the joists is determined differently:

• with a plywood thickness of 15-18 mm, a lag pitch of 40 cm is required;
• at 22 mm – 60 cm.

Which method do you prefer to attach joists to a concrete floor, and why? Share your opinion or experience in the comments.

Handsome and reliable fence, the surrounding dacha or personal plot has long become the calling card of the real owner, and the appearance of profiled galvanized steel sheet with additional polymer protection, giving it an original appearance and a rich palette of colors, has greatly simplified and reduced the cost of constructing fences of any size.

An important element of the fence design

Load-bearing posts and logs for a fence made of modern corrugated board can be made from any available materials available to the developer and providing sufficient load-bearing capacity, determined by the size of the fence.

Fence base made of profiled sheets

Reference: The basis of any building structure, to which we can safely include a fence made of profiled steel sheet is a strong frame obtained by connecting support pillars and transverse joists, onto which the corrugated sheeting is actually attached.

Traditionally, the basis of the fence was wooden structures made of timber of a certain thickness, specially treated with various compounds to protect against atmospheric influences. IN Lately, especially when installing a fence made of corrugated sheets, a profile pipe is used as posts and logs, which ensures high structural strength with smaller linear dimensions, and the use of specialized fasteners greatly reduces the labor intensity of the work performed.

Very often used combined options fences, when the posts and base are made of artificial or natural stone, and the fence cloth is made of corrugated sheeting fixed to metal or wooden logs.

Made of wood

Wood frame

As wooden logs for a fence made of corrugated sheets, a beam with a section of 40x50 mm or 50x60 mm is used when the distance between the posts does not exceed 2.5 m. In this case, the resulting structure can withstand wind loads without damage. Wooden joists must be made from dried wood without large quantities knots and traces of damage by pests and fungi.

Logs prepared for installation are impregnated with protective antiseptic compounds and covered with paints and varnishes, preferably based on natural drying oil. This protection provides wooden joists quite long service life.

Advice: If necessary, during operation, the coating destroyed by atmospheric influences is renewed, which requires additional costs when using wood as load-bearing structure for a fence made of corrugated board.

From rolled metal

Metal profile frame

As the basis for a fence made of corrugated sheets, logs made from rolled metal of various profiles are most often used. This can be a corner with a shelf of 40-50 mm, a channel or a profile pipe of dimensions 20x40 mm and a wall thickness of 1.5 or 2 mm. Usage profile metal pipe as a lag for a fence made of corrugated sheets is most suitable both from the point of view of obtaining maximum structural strength and appearance and the safety of using the rear part of the fence, when all fasteners are hidden inside the pipe profile.

Advice: Increasing the size of the profile pipe by 10 mm allows you to increase the distance between the pillars on which the canvas is mounted to 3-3.5 m, which reduces the cost of installing pillars and allows you to divide the canvas into equal parts for any length of the fenced area. To ensure protection metal structures from weather influences are applied paints and varnishes on a glyphthalic, pentaphthalic or acrylic base.

Mounting methods

Mounting options

Depending on the material of the pillars and logs used in the construction of fences made of corrugated sheets, various fastening methods structural elements between themselves:

• Fastening by placing pillars in special niches;
• Threaded connection of elements;
• Fastening with nails or self-tapping screws, used when fastening wooden structural elements;
• Connecting metal structures using welding.

Each of the listed methods has the right to life and provides reliable connection depending on the structural materials used to construct the fence. How many fasteners are needed is calculated based on the total load on the fence and bearing capacity one fastener with some margin to ensure guaranteed strength.

To connect metal elements of corrugated sheet fencing, specialized fasteners are used to ensure the strength of the connection at the level of the welded structure. These elements have undeniable advantage the fact that assembly is carried out without the use of complex equipment and, if necessary, the structure can be easily disassembled for repair or dismantled for relocation.

Advice: Using ready-made fasteners there is no need to calculate how many of certain elements are needed. The fastener is equipped with everything necessary and is completely ready for installation. The connection of metal structures is carried out in such a way that there is no need to select the length of the logs depending on the distance between the pillars, this contributes to significant savings in material.

The required amount to ensure the strength of the fence

The strength of the fence being built directly depends on the height of the fence and the number of logs installed between the posts as a supporting structure. If the distance between the supports does not exceed 3 m, and the height of the fence is within 1-5 - 1.7 m, two logs located at the same distance of approximately 200 - 300 mm from the edges of the profiled sheet are sufficient. If the height of the profiled sheet exceeds 2 meters, it is necessary to install three pieces, and the distance from the top and bottom of the sheet remains the same, and the resulting distance between the logs is divided in half.

For the construction of fences, the so-called wall profiled sheet with a profile height of no more than 20 mm is used, for fastening which special fasteners are used, depending on the material of the supporting structure. How many fasteners are needed for linear meter flooring is specified in the manufacturer's recommendations.

Important! The number of fasteners should not be reduced to less than 4 screws per 1 meter of flooring. When attaching the upper part of the canvas, the number of fasteners even needs to be increased slightly, which will increase the wind resistance of the finished fence.

How many joists and fasteners are needed? for each type of fence depends on several factors:

• Thickness of the profiled sheet;
• Height of the profiled sheet;
• Distance between supports and total length of the fence;
• Maximum wind loads accepted for the relevant area.

When calculating the number of power elements, it should be taken into account that the use of materials with other linear dimensions or wall thickness will require an additional recalculation of the strength of the structure and some adjustments to the number of pillars, joists and fasteners.

The assembly of logs by welding is shown in the video: