How to insulate a wooden house lined with brick on the outside. How to insulate a log house with a brick facade

We continue our traditional series of articles from Yuri Voedilo (professional builder and repairman). Yuri writes:

IN Lately Heating prices are growing enormously, so many people pay great attention to external wall insulation. Therefore, I decided to pay attention to this topic. In this article we'll talk about insulation of external walls brick house facing bricks. Next we will talk about the tricks of laying the brick itself and the need bulk insulation. Also, in the article we will give examples of laying out an arch.

The house is enclosed ceramic bricks has a very pleasant and neat appearance. But only under the condition that the brick is laid correctly, that is, the seams should be smooth and clean, and the brick itself should not be stained with mortar or have cracks.

Stage 1. Mortar for laying facing bricks

To work we will need the following tools:

• Construction trowel;
• Building level;
• Thread or fishing line
• Rod 8-12 mm (square reinforcement);
• Grinder with a circle on concrete;
• Cement, sand;
• Polystyrene foam in bulk form.

First, let's prepare a solution. All by standard scheme one part of cement grade 400 and three parts of sand, preferably not river sand, since the solution is river sand sit down very quickly. But if you don’t have any other sand, then add a plasticizer to the solution; you can buy it at any hardware store. The density of the mortar should be such that it can be easily scooped up with a trowel and applied to the brick. More and more often, they add to the mortar on which brick laying will be carried out. different types pigments (special dyes). That's why little advice: before buying a brick, consider combining the color of the brick with the color of the seam itself. In our case, the client wanted a classic seam color, that is, gray.

Stage 2. Laying ceramic (cladding) bricks

There is a lot of information on the Internet about how to lay bricks, so I don’t think it’s worth writing about the basic principles. But there is not so much about the features of laying ceramic bricks, because... High-quality insulation of a house with brick requires special attention.

Work will begin by laying out the corners. Facing brick masonry should only be laid on waterproofing. To do this, use roofing material or thick polyethylene film. In our case, the waterproofing was built into the foundation itself, so we started laying the masonry directly on the foundation. Having retreated 4-5 centimeters from the main wall, we will carry out the masonry. We retreat these 4-5 cm for air gap, I’ll explain why later. You need to lay ceramics in the same way as ordinary bricks, but only under a metal rod with a cross-section of 8 by 8 or 10 by 10, 12 by 12 millimeters.

And this is how it is done: a metal rod is placed directly on the masonry itself along the front edge of the brick, and a solution is applied near it. In such a way that the thickness of the applied solution near the twig itself is no higher than the twig itself. And on the back side the solution was ten millimeters higher. This effect can be easily achieved if you use a construction trowel to cut the mortar along the twig and hold the trowel at an angle.

The vertical seam is applied in the same way, only the rod is placed vertically to the end side of the brick (poke). The twig itself will not stand, so you will have to hold it while applying the solution.

Note: after about 2-3 hours of work, you need to rub the seams with a small brush. At the same time, if there are holes or tears in the seams, be sure to seal them! Otherwise, when the temperature changes +/- degrees, water will get in there and when it freezes, it will tear the seam, and after a while, the brick itself. All drops of solution from the wall must also be wiped off with a rag, as after drying it will be much more difficult to wipe off. By the way, after some time, white spots may appear on the wall. This is the salt that was in the sand. There is nothing scary here; it can be easily wiped off with a rag, or you need to wait until the rain washes it off.

Laying facing bricks is a painstaking process that requires care. Therefore, be patient.

Stage 3. Making a frame for a brick arch

In order to lay an arch out of brick, we first need to make a frame for it. We don't need beauty here. The main thing is strength and even bending. Take a USB sheet 10 mm thick and use a jigsaw to cut out two half-moon strips at least 6 centimeters wide. The length and curve of the crescents are individual for each window.

Next, these crescents need to be twisted together, as shown in the photo below. For this we use old bars, their thickness can be different, but the width is the same from 10 to 12 centimeters. And the length is equal to the height of our windows.

We insert the bars between the two crescents and twist them with screws 45 mm long, after which the frame is ready for use.

Stage 4. Making an arch

Having installed the frame in the place where the arched window will be, we begin to cover the frame with brick on top.

Only now we will lay the brick not horizontally, but vertically with the butt side on the face of the masonry. But since the length of the brick is 25 cm, and the width of our masonry is 17 cm (brick width 12.5 cm + air gap 4-5 cm), the brick will have to be cut to length. To cut bricks we will use a grinder with a diamond wheel for concrete.

The adjacent bricks of the main wall will also need to be cut at an angle. The arch should be flat in relation to the main wall at the same level or protrude outward by 2-4 cm, this is a matter of client taste. After a day, three arch frames can be safely disassembled. The arch is ready.

Stage 5. Insulating the brick walls of the house with polystyrene foam from the outside

We will still fill the air gap that we left between the main wall and the ceramic brick. This is an integral part of lining a house with facing bricks and insulation. The next question is: what kind of insulation should be between brick wall and facing bricks? To do this, we decided to use loose foam, which is sold in bags. Why this and not sheet foam?

Here's why. The first advantage: if for some reason the walls of the building were not level, then the loose foam plastic will not react in any way when backfilled. But with leafy ones you will have to suffer. The second advantage: mice can get into sheet foam and create a lot of passages and holes for themselves. It is impossible to make a move in loose foam because mice cannot climb on it. As they rake with their paws, they sharpen like a truck in the mud, remaining in place.

Before pouring foam into the wall, you need to close the cracks around the perimeter of windows and doors using mineral wool or sheet foam. Moreover, the latter is better, since when filling slopes it will be easier to apply putty on the foam.

Note: in order to safely insulate the walls of a brick house from the outside in windy weather, I do not recommend pouring polystyrene foam. All the foam will scatter all over your yard in the best case, and in the worst case it will even sweep away your neighbors.

Attention! We received feedback that with such insulation over the course of a year, polystyrene foam filled in this way can sag three meters in height of the house, about 60-70 cm. We have had experience in dismantling such walls. Experience shows that insulating voids has little effect. In this material, the photo showed that they had the opportunity to attach ordinary polystyrene foam to the walls, even with foam adhesive. And then lay the masonry. The difference in the price of materials is not significant.
This can be corrected by blowing perlite into the resulting voids in the upper part of the masonry.

Yuri, the author of the article answers: To ensure shrinkage, we tamped foam chips every meter of height. In addition, for filling after two or three years, it is enough to remove the hem and do the filling. And yet, the difference in price is not significant, but there are two but... 1. In such foam, mice are found three times less often and not for long, since it is not convenient for them to make moves there and they simply fall down. 2. When using sheet foam, you need a more or less flat surface; for loose foam, this is of no use.

Stage 6. Final work

Advice: few builders know this secret: when all the work on insulating a house with bricks is completed, spare no expense and buy a couple of canisters of liquid silicone at a construction supermarket. And carefully paint all the brickwork, especially the seams, they can even be filled in. After drying, a barely noticeable transparent film will remain on the wall. Thanks to it, your home will look like new for 5-10 years longer. If you don’t have enough money for liquid silicone, then replace it with a primer deep penetration, just remember no drips on the brick, otherwise after drying you will be in for a very unpleasant surprise. And so, all work on laying facing bricks and insulating the brick house is completed. Although this type of insulation is a little expensive, it will serve you for many years.

And although wooden buildings look very beautiful and rich, they also need to be insulated from the outside. This will not only allow you to create reliable protection from moisture, but also from cold. Installation work are not particularly complicated, but if you do not have proper experience in this matter, then it is better to seek help from a specialist.

Materials

A wide selection of thermal insulation materials allows every owner wooden house pick yours perfect option taking into account cost and performance.

Stone wool

This material can be cut even with a regular knife. Since the slabs are light in weight, they are very easy to transport even in a passenger car.

Stone wool

When laying stone wool it must be mounted in the space between the sheathing posts, and then a vapor barrier material must be laid on the inside and a layer of waterproofing on the outside. But how to insulate a wooden house from the outside with mineral wool under siding will help you understand this

Ecowool

This material is characterized by its environmental friendliness. Cellulose fibers were used in its production. Produced in compressed packaging. The process of insulation with the material in question can occur in several ways:

Styrofoam

This material is considered one of the most inexpensive. It does not absorb moisture, so when installing it, care must be taken to install a moisture-proof membrane. When working with polystyrene foam, maximum care is required, because it can crumble and break.

Styrofoam

It is sold in the form of two-component substances. When applied, they foam under the influence of air. The principle of applying this heat insulator is similar to polyurethane foam. With its help, all voids in the wall are filled. Excess material is cut off.

Thus, it is possible to obtain a monolithic layer of insulation that will prevent heat from escaping from the house. Polyurethane foam is also characterized by water-repellent properties. It's worth paying attention to what happens

Natural insulation materials

This category of thermal insulation materials includes slabs made of straw, clay, and sawdust. They differ in their environmental safety, cheap cost. Their main disadvantage remains the complexity of manufacturing. Flax fiber should also be classified as a natural insulation material.

Sawdust for insulation

The material has excellent antiseptic properties and prevents the formation of fungus and mold. It is easy to cut, install and does not cause allergies. But how this happens and how to do it correctly, the information at the link will help you understand and figure it out.

Installation work

The process of installing insulation varies depending on which material option was chosen. If the heat insulator is presented in the form of mats, then installation requires the following steps:

1. Treat the surface of a wooden wall with an antiseptic compound. This should be done in two layers, focusing Special attention corners and lower crown. The ends of the logs should be treated more carefully, since they are often subject to rotting. Carry out similar actions in warm weather. After this you need to wait 1-2 days.
2. Using staples, staple a waterproofing film with a vapor-permeable coating to the walls. Attach the joints of this material with an overlap and glue them using mounting tape. Attach to film vertical frame from boards, the thickness of which should be equal to the thickness of the heat insulator. The sheathing pitch should be 3-5 cm less than the width of the insulating mats.
3. Install a heat insulator onto the film between the boards, while pressing it slightly. The final fastening of the material is carried out using anchor nails. If it is necessary to lay insulation in several layers, then the next layer must be laid with the seams offset. Then the top layer will overlap the joints of the lower ones.
4. Fix the waterproof and windproof membrane film over the heat insulator using staples. The joints are overlapped and secured with tape.
5. Place a ventilated frame on top of the film. To create it, boards are also used, ensuring the distance between the heat insulation layer and decorative facade not less than 5 cm. But how the floor is insulated in a wooden house from below, and what materials are the best, is indicated
6. The boards are fixed to the lower frame using self-tapping screws. If the wall surface is uneven, then it is worth using perforated profile hangers. Thanks to them, it is possible to adjust the distance to the sheathing. For finishing metal siding or corrugated sheeting, it is worth using a profile for plasterboard instead of a board.
7. The sheathing is fastened using the technology recommended by the manufacturer.

Video on how to properly insulate wooden house outside:

If the house is lined with bricks on the outside

If a wooden house has a brick cladding, then it can be insulated from the outside using various thermal insulation materials. When choosing suitable option it is necessary to focus on thermal engineering calculations, thanks to which you can understand the effectiveness of a particular heat insulator, as well as its useful thickness.

It is also worth paying attention to what materials are the best.

Styrofoam

This material is most often used when insulating a wooden house with brick cladding. Its main advantage remains low price and excellent thermal insulation qualities. Before installing foam plastic, a brick wall should be cleaned and leveled. But what is the technology for insulating the facade with polystyrene foam, and how difficult it is to do it, is indicated

Foam plastic for insulation

Fastening is carried out using special bolts. They are screwed through the heat insulator into the masonry. Facade plaster is applied on top of the foam.

You may also be interested in information about how insulation occurs in the form of

Mineral wool

This insulation material has been in wide demand for many decades. Mineral wool has excellent sound and heat insulation properties, provides decent ventilation and has low flammability. The disadvantages of mineral wool include a decrease in thermal insulation properties over time.

Mineral wool for insulating a brick house outside

Izolon

This modern material allows you to achieve maximum heat savings inside the house. Thermal insulation is produced in the form of rolls or solution. To insulate a wooden house, you must use liquid composition. It is pumped by special pumps into the space between the wall and the brick. When using rolled material, a number of difficulties arise, so it is not used so often.

Application of isolon

Isolon is characterized by excellent impact strength, which has a positive effect on its service life. The only disadvantage of a heat insulator is that it has an unattractive appearance. So you will have to take care of additional finishing.

You might also find it useful to know how

Cladding a wooden building with brick is a common occurrence. Brickwork allows you to update and give an old house a completely respectable look. However, often at the stage of this event, many do not immediately think about insulation, but during wintering it turns out that a brick wall does not protect the house from the cold. Insulating a wooden house lined with brick is not an easy task. Experts recommend thermal insulation of the building at the stage of facing work, but, unfortunately, not everyone listens to their opinion. How to insulate log house having brick facade? Let's look into this issue.

There are three ways to solve the problem:

1. Insulate the outside of the brickwork.
2. Insulate the space between the log and brick wall.
3. Make thermal insulation inside the house.

The first method is the most acceptable from the point of view of heat preservation and safety of the wooden structure. But at the same time, choosing this option, you will have to sacrifice the aesthetic characteristics of the house, since all the beauty brick cladding will be hidden. In addition, a lot of investment in new finishing will be required.

The remaining two options have significant disadvantages, which we will discuss in more detail.

Is it possible to install thermal insulation between walls?

Many experts do not recommend filling the space between the walls with any heat-insulating material. And that's why. When facing a residential building or bathhouse with brick, be sure to leave a technological gap of about 25 cm. It is necessary for ventilation of the wooden triple. If the brickwork is made close to the wall, then after a certain period of time the wood will begin to rot, mold and mildew will appear on it, and it will all end in rotting of the wood.

This can also happen if the space is filled with insulation. Some, at their own peril and risk, resort to a similar method of thermal insulation, blowing foam insulation into the holes made in the brickwork. The material completely fills the empty cavities, depriving the wooden wall of any ventilation. We do not recommend insulating a house in this way, as this can lead to unpleasant, but very predictable consequences.

Disadvantages of internal insulation

Internal thermal insulation is also not the best option both for log and timber house. This insulation has a number of disadvantages:

1. Moisture and steam formed inside the house have no outlet, and the effect of a thermos is created in the room.
2. The dew point moves towards the room, which leads to the formation of condensation on the internal walls.
3. The house will warm up faster, but also cool down faster.
4. Decreases effective area rooms.

As you can see, it is extremely undesirable to insulate a wooden house with inside, if it is lined with brick. Moisture will stagnate in the wood, which will lead to the appearance of mold and mildew, and as a result, wooden structures may rot.

Regardless of what material and method of insulation is chosen, it is necessary to make holes in the cladding through which air will pass and ventilate the walls. In addition, the house must have a good ventilation system.

Materials for external thermal insulation

In this case, the house can be insulated with any materials suitable for.

You can insulate brick walls using:

• polystyrene foam;
• mineral wool;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• polyurethane foam,
• thermal panels.

Characteristics of insulation

• Today it is very common. This inexpensive material, which retains heat perfectly, is easy to style, and holds its shape well.
• One of the best insulation materials is extruded polystyrene foam. It has minimal water absorption and low thermal conductivity. In addition, EPS is very durable, which is why it is often used for thermal insulation of blind areas and foundations.
• When insulating a facade with mineral wool, you need to take into account that for external thermal insulation Only stone and basalt wool with a density of at least 80 kg/m3 is suitable. Less dense material may lose its shape.
• Polyurethane foam is excellent for thermal insulation of a brick wall. It has low density, high thermal insulation characteristics and good adhesion. However, the material is not resistant to UV radiation, therefore, when insulating the facade, immediately after installation it must be covered with finishing.
• Thermal panels simultaneously perform the function of both heat insulation and finishing. They consist of several layers of PPU and EPS, and their front part is made of clinker tiles, ceramics, porcelain stoneware or concrete. They have many advantages, but they are also quite expensive.

Methods of external insulation

• Insulation with polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene can be done in two ways: laying tile insulation in the cells of the frame or gluing the slabs directly to the wall. A detailed algorithm for insulating an EPS house is described in the article. Thermal insulation with foam plastic is carried out similarly.
• performed by spraying using professional equipment.
• Installation of thermal panels is quite simple. Each element is provided with a “groove and tenon” type fastening. First install starting profile, on which the elements are laid, joining them to each other. After final installation The space between the wall and the panels is filled with foam.
• When laying mineral wool, installation of lathing is mandatory. The material strongly absorbs and accumulates moisture, which causes a decrease in its thermal insulation characteristics.
  Frame method installation allows you to make a ventilation hole between the wall and the insulation, as well as install a hydro- and vapor barrier layer on both sides of the insulation. Detailed Guide instructions for installing mineral wool can be found in the article.

Internal insulation with warm plaster

For a wooden house, sawdust plaster, which consists of cement, clay, sawdust and paper, is best suited. Air passes through it, which allows the tree to breathe.

The work is performed in the following sequence.

Many people, after building a wooden house, cover it with brick. This allows you to provide the house with additional warmth and make its appearance more attractive. When facing with brick, a house can retain heat several times better. This also applies to old private houses that are built of wood.

Brick cladding wooden houses Quite a smart and competent move. It’s so difficult to do this, but you always need to follow some rules:

1. Before you start laying bricks, you should insulate wooden structure. Best to use sheet material, fortunately it is now widespread in the construction market. Before lining, it is also worth treating the wooden structure with an antifungal solution. It is necessary to process two days in a row.
2. For brickwork it is necessary to pour the foundation. Its width will be approximately 25–30 centimeters. The usual blind area is not suitable in this case, since the wall may simply collapse.
3. The finished foundation must be insulated with a double or triple strip of roofing material. In this case, it is very important to ensure that the strip protrudes from both sides of the masonry by 5–8 centimeters.
4. Now you can start laying the insulation. It is best if it is laid in two rows, since the layers will overlap each other. In this case, the appearance of cracks can be avoided.
5. Next comes the manufacture of the base. The first row of brickwork is laid dry.
6. Before starting masonry, you need to select a brand of brick and calculate its quantity. Most often, simple sand-lime brick or facing brick is used for these purposes. The brick needs to be such that there are no chips on it. Uniform color and a loud knock when struck means that the brick is made in accordance with the technology.
7. Masonry is done using the usual method. To prepare the solution you will need cement and sand. The ratio may vary. It all depends on the brand of cement. Regarding quantity required water, then it is selected empirically. The most important thing is that the solution is not too fluid. Laying takes more than one day. It should be protected from rain. For this, ordinary polyethylene film is used.
8. The cladding often retreats from the wall at a distance of approximately 6 centimeters. The connection between the wall and the masonry is carried out using nails. Sometimes knitted reinforcement is used. Concrete lintels are used for openings.

Insulation of brick walls

Insulation brick walls produced by two methods. They can be insulated from the outside or from the inside. In any case, both methods are very effective and have become widespread. Both methods allow you to save as much heat in the house as could be saved with only two meters of brickwork.

It’s worth starting with the method of insulating from the inside. This method is optimal and suitable for all types and types of houses.

Insulation of walls from the inside

The sequence of actions when using this method:

• a wooden or metal carcass. Its height is determined by the dimensions of the selected insulation;
• next comes thermal insulation material. You can use any of those that are presented on the modern construction market, but the best is a material that is made in the form of layers,
• a vapor barrier is laid and, if necessary, drywall is installed.

This method is universal in all respects. It is used not only for brick buildings, but also for wooden or reinforced concrete structures. That's why he's so popular.

Insulation of walls outside

In this case wooden wall already exists, and the insulation is laid between the brickwork and this very wooden wall. This method involves using the most inexpensive option, namely mineral wool. Although, it is worth noting that this may be another thermal insulation material.

Mineral wool is laid in two layers so that the next layer covers the cavities that form from the previous one. To fasten the outer and inner bases, special nails are used, the minimum length of which is one hundred millimeters.

You can go another way. Use reinforcement for tying. This is more effective, but much more expensive. The reinforcement is either knitted or welded to provide rigidity and structural integrity.

Is it necessary to line the walls of a wooden house? Video

Wood is a traditional building material from which residential buildings are built, in which people feel most comfortable. But no matter what remarkable properties: absorber-regulator harmful substances And excess moisture– no matter what wood has, it is not a sufficient heat insulator. With a small thickness of enclosing structures, additional thermal insulation increases the coefficient thermal resistance materials from which the walls of the building are constructed, which reduces heat loss and therefore helps save energy resources.
Insulation outer wall from the facade from the point of view of maintaining normal temperature and humidity conditions in the premises of the house is the best option. Moreover, since we're talking about about wood - a relatively moisture-intensive material susceptible to rotting, fungus and other diseases caused by moisture, then from this point of view the scheme is considered the most appropriate external insulation followed by a protective and decorative screen - façade cladding. However, if the facades are already finished with facing brickwork, then you will have to insulate the inside of the premises.
Insulation of house walls from the inside has a number of disadvantages. Firstly, the effect of a thermos is created with all the ensuing consequences, in the literal and figurative sense of the word. Secondly, the internal usable area of ​​the premises is reduced. Thirdly, the heat-cold interface point in the thickness of the wall shifts inward, while the dew point is higher and closer to the actual air temperature in the premises of the house. In addition, fourthly, such a wall accumulates heat to a lesser extent, so the house warms up faster, but also cools down faster, for example, after the furnace is fired.
The thickness of the insulation layer depends on the thickness and material of the walls, the region of residence, and the required temperature in the premises. So for home permanent residence located in St. Petersburg or in the region, with walls made of timber 100-150 mm thick, the thickness of effective thermal insulation of the enclosing structures, so as not to heat the street and save energy resources, is 45-75 mm.
Unfortunately, the message does not indicate how thick the walls of the log house are. Table 1 shows the results of calculating the thickness of the thermal insulation layer in the structure of the outer wall of a residential building made of 100 mm thick timber and 125 mm thick facing brickwork for insulation various materials. In the calculation it was assumed that interior decoration walls - cladding with eurolining 11 mm thick, while the cladding is made leaving an air gap between it and the vapor barrier layer of 30 mm.
Table 1.

Notes. 1. The calculation was carried out provided that:

• city ​​– St. Petersburg;


• estimated indoor air temperature +20ºC.

Added: 06/06/2012 18:47

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