How to weld an iron door with your own hands. Metal door with window and cold forged decor

Even a novice master can handle this if he knows how to handle a welding machine.

Of course, you won’t succeed immediately with a complex model, but it’s quite affordable to make and install a basic model of an entrance door.

The importance of the front door cannot be underestimated.

This is not only the first and main frontier preventing the penetration of dishonest citizens into your home, but also one of the key details of the interior of a residential building.

Noise isolation and regulation of the air temperature in the room are two more functions of the entrance metal door.

And if you start a major overhaul in the apartment, then the question of installing a new entrance metal door is one of the first to be decided.

A finished door purchased in a store does not at all guarantee that there are no hidden defects in it, and the prices there are not always affordable, adjusting it will be difficult, and sound insulation will probably not suit you.

Well, self-made shaped doors are still ahead of you, and we will start with the simplest.

As in other cases, the manufacture of a metal door begins with paperwork, in other words, we have to create a drawing.

In order for the drawing to be accurate and true to reality, you have to decide on the dimensions.

The design diagram of the front door offered for review will introduce you to the names and location of the main components and elements.

We are preparing a scheme

The drawing of the entrance metal door is a large-scale diagram of the door leaf, according to which the assembly and installation of the product will be carried out, with the dimensions of the door frame applied to it, the locations of the stiffeners, hinges.

We arm ourselves with a tape measure and take measurements from the doorway.

The standard door size is 90 x 200 cm, if the actual dimensions of the opening are much larger than the data, it makes sense to install a separate block on top or on the side of the door leaf.

The side block can be made deaf or hinged, and the top block can be closed with sheet iron, glazed or barred.

All this is also applied to our drawing.

The dimensions of the door frame should be 2 cm less than the doorway - this will be the mounting gap in which the installation of the unit is adjusted to avoid distortions. Below is a sectional diagram of a metal door.

Most often, the door is attached to 2-4 hinges, their number depends on the weight that your design has.

Loops are external and hidden, the second option is more difficult to manufacture and requires certain skills.

Since we are trying to make a "door for beginners", we will focus on the first option.

To evenly distribute the load, the hinges must be made at an equal distance between each other, and the uppermost and lower hinges must be located at a distance of 15 cm from the edge of the door.

You can make stiffeners in any direction - horizontally, vertically or with a mesh, as well as diagonally - everything is up to you.

The ribs must be made so that they do not pass in places where the installation of the lock, peephole, door handle will be performed.

You determine the number of ribs yourself, it must ensure the inflexibility of the door under its own weight, otherwise the door will need to be repaired after a while.

So, the drawing is ready.

We prepare materials and tools

Having decided on the dimensions, we prepare a set of tools that we will need during the work, calculate the amount of materials needed and go to the store.

We offer you an approximate list of tools:

welding machine;
drill;
a set of screwdrivers or a screwdriver;
Bulgarian;
clamps;
files or grinder;
goats or door table for assembly;
measuring instruments (corner; tape measure, etc.);
building level.

For a metal door of a standard size, you will need:

steel sheet 2-3 mm thick - 100 x 200 cm;
metal corner 3; 2 x 3; 2 cm - 6 p.m. (for door frame);
profile pipe 5 x 2; 5 cm - about 9 running meters. (for the door frame and stiffeners);
metal plates 40 x 4 cm 2-3 mm thick - at least 4 pieces (for attaching the door frame to the walls);
door hinges;
lock;
accessories;
anchor bolts;
anti-corrosion coating;
paint for metal;
assembly foam.

Fittings and lock choose to your taste. Manufacturers offer a wide range of locks, the most reliable of which are three-way.

A lock with crossbars on three sides, of course, is more difficult to install, but it is also not easy to crack it.

If you are making a metal door for a utility room (barn), then it is allowed to make a lightweight economical option - in this case, a thick reinforcing bar is used instead of a profile pipe for stiffeners.

Door assembly

The work on assembling a metal door is carried out in several stages.

Assembling the box

From the professional pipe, it is necessary to make blanks for the box, cut the corners inward at an angle of 90 °, lay out the corner with a rectangle, fix it with clamps and grab it by welding.

After we check the perpendicularity of the sides with a square, and also measure the distance between diagonally opposite pairs of corners and compare, the measurements obtained should be equal.

If there is a skew, then additional adjustment will be required. If everything is in order, then we perform the final welding and grinding of the seams.

The same scheme will later be used by us to assemble the door frame.

We weld metal mounting plates to the box.

Assembling the door panel

Here we need a new measurement - we take measurements along the inner walls of the door frame.

Stepping back 7-10 cm on each side, we get the actual dimensions of the frame of our metal door.

We cut segments of the required length from the corners and perform pre-processing, similarly to the blank for the door frame.

We lay the prepared corners inside the finished box, forming a rectangle, and carry out a control measurement of the correctness of the design.

If necessary, we make adjustments and weld the joints tightly.

We proceed to the manufacture of the door leaf, for which we lay the steel sheet on the table (goats), place the finished frame on top and draw a contour of the desired dimensions, departing from the outer edges of the frame by about 10 cm.

We cut the sheet along the contour, grind the cut points and weld it to the frame.

Be careful, in order to avoid deformation, do not weld with a continuous inseparable seam.

It is much more functional to weld in lengths of about 30 mm at intervals of 15-20 mm in the direction from the center to the edges of the product.

Take your time, periodically let the doors cool down, otherwise hidden defects may appear, and the door will have to be repaired in a short time.

We lay the door leaf on the table with the outer side down, you need to install the door frame on top.

Using pads 2-5 mm thick around the entire perimeter, the position of the box relative to the frame is adjusted.

In this gap, a sealing tape will later be installed, which will improve the qualities of the door, such as sound insulation.

On the finished door leaf, we make cuts for the internal lock and, if necessary, under the peephole, drill holes for attaching the door handle, and carefully grind the edges of the holes.

The size of the cut for the lock should be such that its installation is without play, but provides access to the lock if repairs are required.

We will embed the lock itself and install the fittings a little later.

If you use a padlock, then you need to install the door leaf and the lining box for it at the same level.

We fasten half of the door hinges with grooves to the door frame, weld the second parts of the hinges (with pins pointing upwards) in the appropriate places to the door frame so that they are located on the same axis, grind the welding points.

Some hinges are equipped with holes for lubrication, in which case their installation should provide access to technological holes and the ability to remove the door if repairs need to be made.

We wipe the metal structure from dust and chips so that hidden defects do not appear after painting, apply anti-corrosion protection, on top of which, after drying, you can tint or make a decorative finish.

You can learn more and visually about the process of manufacturing an entrance metal door using the video below.

We mount the door

We place the door frame in the opening and carry out the adjustment with the help of a plumb line and level, so that repairs do not have to be done in the near future.

Having achieved the correct position of the box, we make the installation, fixing the steel hinges to the wall with the help of anchors, we hang the door leaf on the hinges.

We check - if the installation is done correctly, then the metal door will close and open without distortions, without catching on the door frame, and the hinges will move effortlessly.

At the final stage, the peephole is installed, the lock is inserted and the handle is installed.

The lock and handle are bolted to the door so that they can be easily repaired or replaced later.

Having completed the installation of the lock, we rub the end sides of the crossbars with chalk and make marks on the door frame. We cut the metal according to the resulting marks, forming grooves for the crossbars.

For additional protection of the lock from possible breaking, we weld a piece of the corner to the door leaf at the exit points of the crossbars, it also makes sense to reinforce the door leaf at the place of installation of the lock by welding a 6 mm thick steel sheet from its inside.

At the same stage, the operation of the lock, the density of closing the door are adjusted.

Another video for those who make repairs gives very relevant recommendations on how to properly strengthen the door and embed the lock, how it is adjusted.

Now you can start finishing.

At the very beginning of the article, it was already mentioned that the metal door at the entrance to the house should perform some functions, such as sound insulation, preventing foreign odors and low temperature air from entering the room.

The most practical, effective and cheap insulating material for finishing doors is generally recognized as ordinary foam.

We cut the foam into pieces of the desired size and lay them without gaps in the space of the door leaf between the stiffeners.

For better sealing, we will use mounting foam, which will seal the space between the foam plastic and the stiffeners, around the lock, and also seal the inner space of the stiffeners through pre-drilled holes.

Noise isolation is also excellently provided by mineral wool.

From the inside, a metal door can be sheathed with wooden slats, MDF panels or other finishing material, and we glue a sealing tape along the perimeter of the door leaf.

We foam the mounting gaps between the door frame and the slopes of the doorway. Our design is ready to go!

Now you can be sure that there are no hidden defects in this design, the quality of the entrance metal door is 100%, and doing the work yourself made it possible to save a considerable amount from the family budget when doing repairs.

The installation of the entrance metal door is demonstrated to us by the masters in this video tutorial.

Among other types of doors, metal ones stand out for their durability and reliability. They are installed at the entrance to the house or landing, where increased protection is needed. With the help of a simple tool and equipment, each person will assemble a metal door in one day. This also requires certain materials and knowledge.

Is it possible to make metal doors with your own hands

Reliable metal doors have long won the sympathy of consumers. They are used wherever additional protection is needed: in houses, garages, apartments, warehouses. According to demand, the supply market has also grown, a great variety of ready-made steel doors can be found on the pages of newspapers and Internet resources.

There are various types of metal doors on the market.

However, many craftsmen prefer doors of their own manufacture to purchased products. Their advantages are lower financial costs and independent choice of design and materials. These factors allow you to assemble a door of any shape, including non-standard options, and also give confidence in the quality of the finished product.

Thin steel of the frontal surface of finished metal doors is cut without much effort

Self-assembly of a metal door requires not only special equipment, but also certain skills. This is especially true for welding joints. To sew a seam of the desired quality, you need skill and a certain skill. The cost compared to the factory door will be 30-35% lower, but the quality may be higher.

Manufacturing technology of metal doors

In the manufacture of metal doors, the main emphasis is on reliability. This factor depends on:

door leaf and frame designs;
materials used;
installation quality.

Reliability also implies the strength and durability of doors. Additional devices - closers and electronic eyes - make the operation of the structure more comfortable.

Varieties of door hinges and locking devices allow you to choose the right components depending on the specific situation.

All these innovations are also used for self-made doors. First of all, when drawing up a project, it is important to think over in detail all the elements included in the future design and select the necessary materials. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the technological sequence, the order of assembly, installation and finishing of the door block.

Do-it-yourself drawings for making a metal door

To create a working drawing, it is necessary to make measurements of the doorway. The sketch is applied to paper in the selected scale. Using a tape measure, the width, height and depth of the opening are measured.

Doorway parameters: W-width, H-height, T-depth

There is a certain standard for metal doors. It is undesirable to make the dimensions of the door leaf more than 200x90 cm. This is due to the fact that the weight of the structure increases and, accordingly, the requirements for the quality (or quantity) of the loops increase. If the doorway is larger, it is more advisable to install an additional top or side block. The top block is often equipped with glass inserts for additional lighting. Lateral can be hinged or deaf.

The drawing should reflect in detail the design features of the door

All these nuances are reflected in the drawing. It is customary to lay the dimensions of the box taking into account the mounting gap, which allows you to set the structure in the horizontal axis. It is subsequently filled with foam. To adjust the position of the door and eliminate distortions, a gap of 2.5–3 cm is sufficient.

To evenly distribute the mass of the door leaf on the frame, from 2 to 4 loops are used. Canopies can be of internal or external design. Most often use external loops. The distance from the edge of the leaf to the hinges at the top and bottom is 15–20 cm. If the door is heavy and there is a need for additional suspension, one or two auxiliary hinges are mounted between the main hinges. The drawing marks the exact location of the canopies, taking into account their own dimensions.

Support ball inside the sleeve softens the working stroke of the hinges

Any door is equipped with stiffeners. They are metal corners or pipes of a tetrahedral section, located along, across or diagonally on the canvas. When placing them, two factors are taken into account:

the location of the lock and the door handle (for ease of installation, the stiffeners do not intersect with the place where the locks are installed);
method of door insulation (because the heat-insulating material is attached in the recesses between the ribs).

Insulation is located between the ribs of the door

On the drawing, you need to display the exterior finish of the door and the structural components necessary for this. For example, if one of the sides is planned to be sheathed with clapboard, wooden blocks are laid inside the canvas, to which the lining is subsequently attached. If the sash is covered with paint or laminated film, there is no need to install bars, but more attention is paid to the plane of the leaf. The surface is carefully polished, metal streaks formed during welding are eliminated.

Do-it-yourself equipment and materials for the manufacture of metal doors

After the working sketches are completed, you need to prepare tools and materials. Here is the main equipment list:

Electric drill with a set of drill bits for metal. The angle of sharpening the drill should be 110–130 °, tool steel, increased strength, hardened. It is convenient to use a core to make a hole.
Using a core and a hammer, a metal drilling point is prepared
Screwdrivers or a screwdriver with a set of necessary nozzles, including those with cross-shaped and flat slots.
Welding machine, preferably of the invector type. Electrodes with a rod thickness of at least 2 mm.
The power of the welding machine must match the thickness of the door metal
Angle grinder (grinder) and cutting discs. One peeling disc is also needed to remove metal deposits.
Vice and clamps for fixing structural elements during assembly. The solution of the working planes of the tool is selected based on the dimensions of the workpieces.
Clamp securely holds the workpiece while working with it
Metal files with a fine structure.
Workbench or goats.
Locksmith workbench simplifies and speeds up the assembly of a metal door
Roulette, square, marker (or chalk) and other measuring tools.
The presence of a variety of tools speeds up the assembly process
Hydraulic level or laser level.

As for materials, the set will vary depending on the design of the door. Here is the list for a standard product:

Steel (frontal) sheet 1x2 m in size. Thickness from 1.5 to 3 mm. Cold-rolled steel is preferable, as its strength is higher.
Corner metal, size 35x35 mm in the amount of 6 running meters. Other options are possible depending on the dimensions and arrangement of the door frame.
The corner takes on the main load and does not allow the door leaf to deform
A profile pipe with a rectangular section of 50x25 mm - 9 m. If the door is intended for a utility room, reinforcement is used, which is welded to the canvas from the inside. At the same time, the step of the stiffeners is reduced, the crossbars are placed more often.
The size of the pipe must correspond to the thickness of the door leaf and insulation
Metal plates (thickness 2–3 mm and section 400x40 mm) - 4 pcs. (for fastening the door frame to the walls of the opening).
Loops - from 2 to 4 pcs. In the "advanced" models, ball bearings are inserted.
Bearings facilitate and prolong the operation of the hinges
Anchor bolts, diameter from 10 to 12 mm.
Polyurethane foam with a low coefficient of expansion, fast setting.
A special gun is used to direct the foam into the gaps.
Primer, anti-corrosion coating. Well proven automotive primer.
Door furniture. Lock with pads, handle, peephole, door closer (the last two elements are optional). Locks are selected according to the functions of the door. Sometimes, to increase reliability, crossbar structures with three-sided fixation of the web are installed. Their installation is more difficult, but it is much more difficult to crack such a door.
The crossbar lock fixes the door leaf on three sides

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a metal door

It is advisable to adhere to the following sequence of work:

Metal corners are cut according to the given dimensions. The blanks are laid out on a workbench in a rectangle in the shape of a door frame. The control is carried out with a locksmith's square and a tape measure. All parts of the structure must be perpendicular to each other. The lengths of the diagonals can differ by no more than 1.5–2 mm. Permissible error in frame height - 2 mm. It is recommended to connect the corners to each other at an angle of 45 °.
Plates are immediately welded to the frame, which will fasten it to the wall
Welded composite structure. First, "tacks" are placed in all corners. Final measurements are being made. If all dimensions correspond to the working drawing, the box is finally welded. Clamps are used for convenience. Corner seams are processed by a grinder.
Welding work must be carried out in a well-ventilated area or outdoors.
When the door frame is ready, the exact dimensions of the door leaf are measured (starting not from the drawing, but from the specific dimensions of the frame). 10 mm is taken from all sides. For the manufacture of the sash, a corner is cut, a longitudinal hole is made at the place where the lock is installed. The grinding disc on the grinder is replaced with a cutting disc of the desired thickness.
Wooden slats are placed inside the metal profile. With their help, future finishing work on the door is simplified.
In order to weld the hinges, the frame of the door leaf is inserted into the corners of the frame. The location of the canopies must be accurately measured and secured with clamps.
Before fixing the hinges, you need to mount the frame of the door leaf
The rest of the leaf profiles are installed if the frame of the door leaf is congruent to the box (minus technological gaps) and the hinges work in the desired mode.
A prepared metal sheet is welded onto the frame of the canvas. It is cut to size in such a way that the catch is 1 cm on each side, from the side of the lock - 1.5 cm. Before welding, they try on by applying the plate to the frame. If the calculated dimensions are maintained, the structure is turned over and the joints are sequentially welded.
The metal sheet is welded to the frame from the inside
First of all, a part of the sheet is attached at the loops (from the inside). Then the canvas is scalded around the entire perimeter.
The porch is being installed. To do this, a sham bar is attached to the inside of the sash with two seams.
The porch ensures the reliability of the door
On the inner plane of the canvas, stiffening ribs are installed and fixed, consisting of shaped pipes.
"Forging" and cleaning of seams from slag is carried out. The reliability of welded joints is checked. All irregularities must be smoothed out. After that, the structure is coated with an anti-corrosion primer. Drying time is 24 hours.
The seams are cleaned with an angle grinder and a file
The lock, the striker, then the door handle and the rest of the auxiliary fittings are installed. When mounting the components, it is recommended to follow the instructions in the accompanying documents of the products.
Insulation, sound insulation, decor of the outer and inner plane of the door leaf are being carried out.

A metal door is a means to secure a home, so it is reasonable to take precautions when making it. Bulgarian, perforator, welding - these useful tools become dangerous for human health and life if handled carelessly. The use of personal protective equipment - a respirator, a welder's mask, gloves, etc. - is a natural labor norm, it is unwise to forget about it. In addition, a fire extinguisher and a bucket of sand are needed in the welding area.

Video: how to cook loops

Thermal insulation of a metal door

During the cold period, icing, drops of water or frost sometimes appear on metal doors. This suggests that the structure freezes through. Warm air inside the room hits the metal surface and cools sharply. As a result, condensation forms, which either drains or freezes and turns into ice. To prevent this from happening, the door leaf is insulated. Previously, they used synthetic winterizer or dermantin, but this did not bring effective results. Today, the arsenal of heaters includes:

Styrofoam;
mineral and basalt wool;
polyurethane.

Styrofoam

It is considered a very good insulation, since it contains 98% of air “sealed” in plastic bubbles. The advantages include ease of installation, low price and absolute resistance to corrosion. Most of the doors of industrial production are completed with foam plastic or its modification - foam plastic. In addition to thermal insulation properties, the material has good sound absorption. The disadvantages include fusibility and the release of a large amount of toxic gases during combustion and heating. Therefore, it is not recommended for installation directly in residential premises. The ideal location is the entrance doors of garages, warehouses, multi-storey buildings.

Styrofoam reduces the thermal conductivity of metal doors in garages and utility rooms

Video: insulation of the garage door with foam

This category includes basalt and glass wool. They differ in their initial raw materials - basalt is made from rocks, and glass wool is made from sand and glass, stretched into thin long fibers. There is no noticeable difference in thermal insulation properties, but glass wool is more environmentally friendly. Both materials are characterized by high fire safety and ease of installation.

When laying mineral wool inside metal doors, certain rules must be observed. For example, you can not crush the mats between the stiffeners - this reduces the thermal insulation characteristics. It is necessary to cut the material with an accuracy of 1-2 mm.

Mineral heaters are available both in the form of mats and in the form of rolls of various thicknesses.

A significant disadvantage of mineral wool for insulating a metal door is hygroscopicity. The fact is that with a large difference in air temperatures on both sides of the door, the dew point shifts into the interior of the leaf. This leads to the fact that the condensed excess moisture is immediately absorbed by the fibers. Over time, water accumulates and heat-insulating characteristics are reduced to 80%. You can avoid this scenario with the help of an additional vapor barrier film, which is attached over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe sash. The hydro-barrier neutralizes the effect of moisture accumulation, but there is no full guarantee. It is for this reason that mineral wool insulation is recommended in doors that are not exposed to significant temperature differences. For example, at the entrance to the apartment.

Video: insulation of a metal door with mineral wool

Polyurethane, or inflatable insulation

Quite expensive, but effective technology. The inner cavity of the door leaf is filled with polyurethane foam. Hardened polyurethane is a synthetic substance that is not subject to corrosion, an excellent heat insulator. The difficulty lies in the fact that special industrial equipment is required for inflation, which combines a diffuser and a compressor. But using foam from household spray cans is too expensive.

Polyurethane coating is not afraid of water, is a solid sealed layer

Regardless of the material chosen, preparation for insulation consists in planning the locations of the stiffeners. Experts recommend placing them in such a way that the insulation is securely held inside the sash without additional fastening. That is, the crossbars are placed not only vertically or horizontally, but they are also combined so that the insulation does not sag over time.

Cotton wool fits tightly between the stiffeners inside the door leaf

Stages of installation of insulation on the door leaf

Experts advise laying insulation in doors that are in a horizontal position - on a table or goats. The key to successful thermal insulation is the thoroughness of laying the entire plane, minimizing gaps. The process is performed before sewing the inside of the canvas:

The dimensions of the frame cell are measured.
Blanks are cut from the insulation with an error of a maximum of 2 mm (in the big direction).
The material is placed in the sash:
- if foam plastic is used as a heater, several points (4–5) of liquid nails are applied to the surface of the workpiece, the resulting cracks are leveled with mounting foam;
- when insulating with mineral wool, a waterproofing film is preliminarily laid over the entire area of the door, moreover, with a release (reserve), then the insulation is laid out and covered with another layer of film, the edges of which are folded into a single “cocoon”, only after that the door is sewn up from the outside (to increase the impermeability air, the edges of the membrane are carefully glued with adhesive tape).

Video: how to insulate a metal door with foam

door frame insulation

For good insulation, it is necessary to insulate the door frame. The method depends on the design of the frame, which may consist of an all-metal frame or a hollow profile. It's easy to do. Inside the profile, polyurethane mounting foam is poured from a household can. If necessary, holes are drilled on the surface according to the diameter of the tube, into which polyurethane is blown. It fills all free space.

The internal cavity of the frame is filled with mounting foam

It will not be possible to insulate an all-metal box in this way, so you need to carefully process the gap between the frame and the doorway with foam.

Insulating paint of the Akterm series, produced on the basis of modern nanotechnologies, is considered an innovative means of insulating a metal door. The composition includes microscopic ceramic balls (several microns in size). A layer of paint of 1 mm is equivalent in terms of its thermal insulation characteristics to 5 cm of foam. The disadvantage is the rather high price and the difficult application of the composition to the metal surface.

Video: insulation of the door frame with mineral wool

Soundproofing a metal door

An important property of the front door is the ability to contain noise from the outside. Metal does not help in this regard. On the contrary, it enhances the sounds. Therefore, the door is supplemented with special internal and external coatings that reduce the level of penetrating noise.

Outer coating

It is carried out using sound-absorbing and vibration-insulating materials. These include:

polystyrene;
vibroplast;
bitoplast;
bimast.

These are synthetic coatings that are a canvas that actively dampens any sounds and vibrations.

Sound-absorbing materials consist of several layers of different densities

The order of work is as follows:

The material must be spread over the surface to be insulated and smoothed out. Some types are equipped with an adhesive layer, it is enough to release them from the protective film and press them against the plane of the door.
For others, you must first clean and degrease the canvas. Then spread the waterproof adhesive evenly, cover the surface with the material and wait until it dries completely. Pasting is desirable to carry out both from the outside and from the inside.

Installing the seal

The tool is simple but effective. Previously, felt was used as sealants, today there is a wide range of ready-made rubber and rubber products. There are no difficulties with installation, you just need to remove the protective coating and carefully stick the profiled strip along the perimeter of the sash. Its width must not exceed 25% of the size of the door frame support strip. The thickness is chosen in such a way that in the compressed state (with the doors closed) the seal is reduced by half.

The seal consists of rubber tubes of a special section

Finishing metal doors

The exterior finish of the door performs two important tasks. Hides the unsightly appearance of bare metal and protects the canvas from adverse factors. It is especially important to protect the steel surface from excessive moisture, as this can cause corrosion.

The choice of finishing materials is huge. But the most popular are:

MDF panels;
kozhvinil;
tree array.

Microwood fiber (MDF) is a mixture of wood and carbide shavings pressed under high temperature and pressure. The material retains the color, texture and tactility of wood, but is not inferior to plastic in terms of strength and elasticity. A big plus of MDF panels is their low price. However, this type of finish belongs to the “premium” class and, in terms of aesthetics, is not inferior to natural solid wood.

The front door, finished with MDF, is difficult to distinguish from the natural array

Professionals also note a number of other advantages of MDF:

high heat and sound insulation;
increased resistance to fire, fire safety;
combination of high strength and ease of processing;
resistance to the influence of biological factors: mold, fungus, dampness;
ecological cleanliness, the composition of the plates does not include toxic and harmful chemicals.

In retail chains, you can find four types of MDF panels:

painted with RAL dye;
coated with a polymer-based composition;
laminated panels;
veneered products.

In addition to products in the form of sheets, there is a wide range of additional decorative elements of the door - architraves, extensions, etc.

Kozhvinil is a type of exterior finish made of artificial materials that imitate natural leather. Vinyl leather and dermantin belong to the same group. Subject to the technology of tightening and operation, the lining retains its properties for a long time. Kozhvinil is a champion among inexpensive ways to protect doors from noise and hypothermia. Easy to clean with common cleaning products.

The disadvantages include the combustibility of the material and defenselessness against vandalism. It is customary to drape the door in this way in the interior. Contact with open air and direct sunlight quickly leads to loss of color and gloss of the coating.

One of the solutions for finishing a metal door in the middle price range is covering the sash with an anti-vandal film. This wonderful tool is not produced in Russia, so the price is high. The most popular film from Israel is Vinorit. PVC coating has a variety of colors, textures and thicknesses. Resistant to UV radiation, mechanical damage and fire.

Natural array is the most expensive type of finish for iron doors. The overlay panel is made by gluing wood lumber and their further processing: grinding, milling, polishing, etc. Expensive wood species are used for production - oak, beech, mahogany, alder, ash. As a rule, the form of release of the panel from the massif - an overlay 18 mm thick. This allows you to encrust the surface with various "plots". Often, the outer metal cladding imitates the paneled structure of the sash. Drawing ornaments, drawings and other decorative elements is possible. In the factory, wood is not only coated with paint or varnish, but also impregnated with special compounds, thanks to which the material becomes resistant to the adverse effects of the atmosphere, does not dry out and almost does not burn.

The array compares favorably with other finishing materials:

elegance of appearance;
absolute naturalness and environmental friendliness;
durability;
increased performance in terms of thermal insulation and sound absorption;
the possibility of restoration.

Oak flooring only gets better with age.

The entrance metal door lined with natural wood is a symbol of respectability. Most often found in expensive restaurants, five-star hotels, reputable organizations and offices of large companies.

Video: interior decoration of a metal door

Do you need a normal iron door, but the prices on the market “bite”? There is an option to build it yourself. Let's take a look at how a metal door is made with our own hands, starting with preparing a tool, purchasing material and sketching a sketch, and ending with insulation and a fine finish.

Making an iron door yourself is quite realistic.

Making a metal door with your own hands for an amateur is a very real task, but there is one caveat: you must work freely as a grinder and own a welding machine at least at the initial level. But before you make the door itself, you need to prepare the tool and material.

Tool selection

Bulgarian;
Welding machine;
Screwdriver or a set of screwdrivers;
Electric drill with impact function or hammer drill;
Round "bastard" file;
Hammer;
Roulette;
Kern;
Level (preferably 1.5 m);
Square.

Home craft tool.

In addition, you will need a variety of accessories for power tools. This refers to discs for a grinder for metal, a cord brush for a grinder, drills for a drill, emery and other small things without which it is impossible to make a metal door with your own hands.

Purchase of material for the manufacture of a metal door

For iron doors you need to buy:

Metal sheet with a thickness of 1.5 to 3 mm;
Profiled pipe 40x20 mm - at least 7 - 8 m;
Corner 50x50 mm - about 7 m;
Strip 40x4 mm - 2 m;
Loops are ordinary father-mother or articulated - 2 pcs.

If you do not have much experience in welding work, then it is better to take a thicker sheet for front doors, at least at least 2 mm, and preferably 3 mm. Welding of metal doors the matter is not particularly difficult, but a thin sheet is very easy to burn through.

Material for metal doors

You will also need a good flat table or some kind of goats, it is very difficult to make a metal door on the ground, and for a novice master it is not realistic at all.

Making a sketch

Professional drawings for standard iron doors can now be found, but the problem is that these documents were made in accordance with GOST 31173-2003, that is, 2200x900 mm or 2200x1200 mm (for wide openings).

Professional drawing for a door welded from metal

The entrance metal door in an apartment or a private house does not always meet the standard, so it is better to draw up a sketch. Otherwise, on a non-standard opening, you will either have to cut out part of the slope, or somehow close up the gap next to the door.

An example of a sketch for a non-standard iron door.

Since we are already making an iron door with our own hands, then at the stage of creating a sketch, you need to take into account some tolerances, they are shown below in an example:

The starting dimensions of the doorway are 216x90 cm;
It is impossible to make a frame (loot) close to the walls, since there will be nowhere to fill in the mounting foam, therefore, along the upper edge we leave 10 mm for the foam, plus 5 mm thickness of the corner;
At the bottom we make a small threshold, respectively, 25 mm from the corner will be cut off, the total remains 212 cm frame height along the inner perimeter;
On the sides, we also leave 10 mm for the foam, plus 10 mm is the thickness of the metal in 2 corners, the total width of the internal opening is 87 cm;
The steel door itself, or rather the frame under it, cannot be made close to the loot, if the house starts to “walk” and the loot moves a little, then the canvas will jam. Therefore, we leave a gap of 5 mm along the outer perimeter, respectively, it turns out 211x86 cm;
We take a larger sheet (90x215 cm), as it will overlap with part of the loot.

The tool was prepared, the material was bought, the sketch was made, now you can start building iron doors with your own hands.

Seven stages of steel door assembly

You can make metal doors with your own hands only from a corner or only from a profiled pipe, but the mixed version is more reliable and practical. It is better to weld the outer frame (chute) from a corner of 50x50 mm, and the frame for the door leaf from a profiled pipe 40x20 mm.

Stage number 1. We weld the loot

First of all, we cut off the corners according to the scheme and fix them on the desktop or goats with clamps. It is important here that the bottom plane is even, and the corners are connected at 90º. We check the rectangle of the box along the diagonals, if they are the same, then the corners will be right.

Fixing the frame with clamps.

It’s not worth scalding the corners right away, they can lead, first we grab at several points and again measure the diagonals until everything is boiled, you can still adjust minor inaccuracies.

Spot grip.

When scalding corners, first we apply all vertical seams, and then move on to horizontal ones, so the metal will overheat less. We will cut out the extra part of the corner later.

Corner welding.

Now we turn the frame over and check the plane with a long level or any even standard. There should not be any distortions and bends.

Checking the plane of the frame.

We boil the outer joints and immediately grind these seams with a grinder.

Welding of external seams.

As shown in the photo above, we still have a piece of the corner not cut out from the inside, it needs to be removed, as it will interfere with installation. To do this, turn the frame over again and cut out the extra parts with a grinder. Lootka is ready, now you can move on to the frame for the iron door.

Cut out the excess parts.

Stage number 2. Frame for the door leaf

When cutting profiled pipes under the frame of the door leaf, first measure all the long parts, and then cut out the short ones from the remnants. Otherwise, you may not guess even then, large vertical racks will have to be welded from pieces.

It is better to make a slot under the lock immediately. To do this, we measure 1 m from the bottom of the rack and make 2 vertical cuts along the dimensions of the lock, and cut this strip obliquely in the middle. To make it easier to break the pieces, we make small cuts on them, the arrows in the photo indicate these cuts.

Primary fitting of the castle.

In order for the frame of the door leaf to clearly fall into place, we fix the profiled pipes with clamps on the inside of the loot. Do not forget: there should be a gap of 5 mm between the profiled pipe and the corner, for this we insert gaskets. As gaskets, you can use the same trimmings of the corner.

Fixing the profiled pipe on the frame.

Here it is important how to put profiled pipes, any such pipe has a welded seam, and so, this seam should “look” inside the canvas.

Welded seam of profiled pipe.

When constructing a frame for a door leaf, it is no longer necessary to check the diagonals, since we are “attached” to the outer frame. The corners are welded by analogy with a loot, that is, we grab at several points, and then weld the joints from the center to the edges.

Welding the corners of the door frame.

Here, while the frame is in the loot, we weld the transverse stiffeners, they are made of a profiled pipe.

Fastening ribs.

Now we remove the clamps, remove the outer frame and weld the ends of the joints in the corners, after which we grind all the seams. Be careful, the metal is thin and burns easily.

Grinding welded seams from the outside is mandatory.

Always control where you have the top, bottom, hinges and lock. At this stage it is very easy to confuse and then it will be difficult to correct the situation without losses.

Stage number 3. Sheet fastening

First we need to cut the sheet to size. From the frame of the door leaf, to the edge of the sheet, we leave 20 mm (5 mm for the gap, plus 15 mm for the overlap of the loot). To cut the sheet exactly according to the markup, you can use a profiled pipe, just fasten it with clamps and cut it with a grinder along the edge.

Standard for cutting a sheet with a grinder.

We put the door frame on the cut sheet, check that the overlap is clearly observed everywhere and spot-weld the profiled pipes to the sheet (a step of about 100 - 150 mm). To prevent the frame from moving during welding, it can be fixed with clamps.

Grab the frame not along the perimeter, but diagonally. That is: they welded one point, then switched to the opposite one, and so on until everything is scalded. Otherwise, the design may lead.

Spot welding door leaf.

Stage number 4. How to weld loops

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Canopies we buy usual, such as father-mother (dad with a pin). Before installation, canopies must be lubricated immediately.
	From the edge of the canvas to the canopies there should be 20 - 25 cm, both above and below.
	The canopy should be slightly raised so that the sheet does not cling to the frame when opening.
	The canopy is set so that when viewed from above, there is a gap of 1 - 2 mm between it and the sheet.
	Before how to cook construction, place a gasket under the sheet (a piece of the same sheet). The gap is for the rubber seal.
	We weld the awnings.
	To keep the canopy more secure, you can weld a metal plate with an overlap on the canvas frame, but this is more a recommendation than a rule.

Stage number 5. We cut the lock

The lock has already been inserted into the door frame, now you need to try on and mark the places of cuts in the loot.

Marking for holes in the corner.

We drill holes for the keyhole with a large drill, after which we bring it to the desired size with a round bastard file.

Keyhole hole.

The holes in the corner for the lock itself are cut out by a grinder and also processed with a file. It is advisable to close the lock bolts from the inside with a metal casing, it can be made from a profiled pipe or corner, the casing must be welded.

Cover to protect the bolts of the lock.

Now it remains to try on the overlay on made earlier holes and you can proceed to facing work.

Installing the padlock.

Stage number 6. Facing and insulation

It is cheaper and best to insulate iron doors with polystyrene, as a rule, PSB-S-25 plates 40 mm thick are taken. The plate is cut out a little less than the opening, and the gap is then blown out with mounting foam.

Insulation of entrance doors with foam plastic.

It is not necessary to insulate entrance doors with mineral wool. The fact is that any cotton wool is afraid of moisture and sits down after getting wet, so after a couple of years such a heater will stop working.

From the inside, the structure can be sheathed with any plate you like, from OSB to laminated MDF.

Laminated MDF door trims.

You can also read a more detailed article on the insulation of metal doors -.

The outer front of the doors can also be finished with a laminated plate, but it will be easier and cheaper to paint the metal with hammer paint, this is done like this:

All metal is cleaned with a cord brush (it is convenient to use a cord nozzle on a grinder);
The structure is degreased with acetone or gasoline;
The metal is covered with primer under the previously selected hammer paint;
2-3 layers of paint are applied with a brush, roller or spray gun.

Painting iron doors with hammer paint.

Stage number 7. Installation of metal doors

To fix the iron doors, you must first weld on the perimeter of the loot a kind of shanks from a strip of 40x4 mm.

Shanks for fixing iron doors.

The design is installed in the following sequence:

Insert the loot into the doorway;
With a perforator, drill blind holes in the slopes through the shanks;
Then you can hammer metal crutches or fix the structure with anchor bolts;
Hang the door leaf;
Blow out the gaps around the perimeter of the loot with mounting foam;
The door is installed, now it remains to cut off the excess dried foam and equip the slopes.

This is how an iron door is installed with your own hands.

Conclusion

As you can see, at home “production”, without professional schemes and expensive equipment, a good iron door was assembled by hand and it cost about half as much as the factory counterpart.

With good decor, a homemade door will look no worse than a factory one.

Sections of the article:

In the market of entrance doors, steel structures rightfully occupy one of the leading positions. The manufacturing technology and the positive characteristics of the material make it possible to prevent unauthorized entry into the premises and withstand all illegal opening attempts by selecting door keys, destroying or deforming the door leaf. The range of finished products in specialized stores is quite extensive, however, making an iron door with your own hands is not only possible, but also accessible to virtually everyone. It is only important to have the desire and experience to work with a welding machine, as well as to strictly adhere to the sequence when working with materials and tools.

The main reasons for the manufacture of steel doors on their own include:

Non-standard dimensions of the structure, which should be the result;
The embodiment of the exclusive idea of the designer;
Use of special materials;
Opportunity to obtain a high quality product;
Economic component.

A high-quality iron door has high protective properties, provides sufficient heat and sound insulation, and has a long service life.

Iron structure design

The process of manufacturing an iron door should begin with the creation of a drawing, which indicates the actual dimensions of the product. The resulting scheme will serve as the basis for the assembly and subsequent installation of the door.

You need to start by measuring the width and height of the doorway. The measurements obtained are transferred to paper, a diagram of the future design is drawn with the specified width and height of the door leaf.

The standard size of the metal structure is 900 mm x 2000 mm. If the dimensions are larger, then an additional block is installed on top, closed with sheet metal, glass, grating, or a blind or swing block is welded on the side. All elements are specified in the project.

The dimensions of the door frame should be 2 cm smaller than the size of the doorway. The resulting gap will subsequently greatly simplify the process of installing the box and allow you to adjust it if necessary.
The number of loops is calculated taking into account the weight of the structure, as a rule, 2 - 4 canopies are used. To evenly distribute the load, the hinges are welded at the same distance from each other. In this case, the first and last are welded at a distance of 15 cm from the outer edge of the door.

The next step is to reinforce the door frame with additional stiffeners. The main stiffener is located in the middle of the door leaf, and additional stiffeners can be put in from the corners of the product or from the hinges, which will evenly distribute the load over the entire door area. The main thing is that the stiffeners do not interfere with the insertion of the lock, the installation of the handle and the peephole. The stiffeners must ensure the strength of the finished product, their number is also chosen at your own discretion.

Materials and tool kit

The necessary tools for assembling an iron door with your own hands include:

Electric drill;
Screwdriver;
Bulgarian, equipped with a cutting disc for metal;
clamps;
A set of files, a grinder;
A set of measuring tools.

Materials for the manufacture of a standard design include:

Steel sheet (2 - 3 mm thick with a dimension of 100 x 200 cm);
Metal corners for the frame (3.2 x 3.2 cm 6 p.m.);
Profile pipe for the frame and stiffeners (5x 2.5 cm 9 p.m.);
Canopies for doors;
Reinforcement plates for fastening the door frame to the wall (40 x 4 cm, thickness of which is 2 - 3 mm, in the amount of 4 pcs.);
Door fittings (locks, handles);
Anti-corrosion protective compounds, paint;
Mounting foam, anchor bolts.

The range of door fittings and locks is quite diverse, the choice depends solely on personal preferences. But the most popular mechanisms are locks with crossbars on three sides. Such products are much more difficult to install, but their protective functions are much higher.

If the iron door is intended for utility rooms, you can apply a more simplified and cost-effective option in financial terms: the reinforcing bar will perform the function of a stiffener.

Assembly steps

The process of assembling a metal structure consists of the following steps.

collection box

Frame parts are cut from a profile pipe and laid in the form of a rectangle on the welding table. Once again, all dimensions are checked, including diagonally. The control measurement will allow you to set the angles clearly at 90 degrees. A correctly adjusted design is tack welded.

After completion of welding work, it is necessary to check the perpendicularity of the sides and measure the distance between opposite pairs of corners. Compare source data.

If everything worked out correctly, you can proceed to the final welding work. Upon completion, the seams must be sanded. Then reinforcing plates are welded to the door frame.

Door leaf assembly

To assemble the canvas, it is necessary to measure the inside of the door frame. On each side we retreat 7 cm - these are the dimensions of the future structure.

From the metal corners, the blanks necessary for the length are cut and pre-treated to eliminate burrs. The prepared corners must be laid inside the structure to form a rectangle. After that, control and measuring actions are performed.

If there are any nuances, they must be eliminated and fit all the details in size. Docking points are welded tightly.

The next step is to cut the material for the stiffeners, they are welded tightly to the door frame. It is important to take into account all the places indicated in the project for installing the lock and related fittings.

The fabrication of the blade begins with the laying of the steel sheet on the welding table or gantry. A finished frame is laid on top of the sheet and a contour is drawn according to the dimensions specified in the project, while 10 cm must be indented from the outer edges of the frame.

According to the outlined contour, a steel sheet is cut out, the cut sections must be polished. The prepared canvas is mounted to the frame using a welding machine.

An important point: in order to prevent distortion, welding cannot be done with a continuous seam.

The best option for a welding seam is 30 mm pieces with an intermediate distance of 15 - 20 mm. To avoid subsequent hidden defects, the product must periodically cool down during operation, otherwise it may need to be repaired in the near future.

Having finished with the outside of the door, the canvas must be turned over and the door frame laid on top.

For the convenience of fitting the box to the frame, you can use linings, the thickness of which is from 2 to 5 mm, they are laid around the entire perimeter of the structure. In the resulting space, a sealing tape will be installed in the future to improve the soundproofing qualities of the door.

When the door leaf is completely ready, special cuts are made to install the internal lock and peephole, a hole is drilled for the door handle. The edges of the holes must be sanded.
An important point: the size of the hole for the lock at the same time should allow the installation of the lock without play and provide free access to it in case of repair work.

For a padlock, special pads must be provided.

Installation of door hinges

The upper canopies, equipped with grooves, are attached to the door frame, and their lower parts with pins are welded to the door frame. Docking seams must be polished.

The assembled metal structure must first be cleaned of foreign particles (dust, chips) and treated with an anti-corrosion compound. The final chord is either tinting or decorative door trim.

In order to understand in more detail and clearly how iron doors are assembled with your own hands, it is recommended that you first study the videos that clearly show the whole process from A to Z.

Assembly work on the installation of the door

A box is placed in the doorway and the structure is adjusted relative to the opening, all actions are carried out using a plumb line or building level.

Installation work on the installation of the door frame takes place exclusively with its geometrically verified location. Anchor bolts are used to fix the steel hinges to the wall. After that, you can hang the door leaf on the awnings.

Checking the correct installation: the iron door should both open and close freely, and the hinges should work smoothly and without undue effort.

Installing the lock and door handle

After installing the lock, the end sides of the crossbars must be rubbed with chalk and make marks on the door frame with them. In the marked places, holes are cut out - grooves for the crossbars.

If there is a need for additional protection of the lock, a corner of the required length should be welded to the door leaf in those areas where the crossbars come out. Another way is to strengthen the door leaf in the place where the lock is mounted. For this, a 6 mm thick steel plate is welded on the inside. At this stage, it is recommended to adjust the operation of the locking mechanism and take care of the tight fit of the door to the frame.

After studying the detailed manufacturing instructions, you can understand how to properly make a metal structure. It is quite possible to assemble an iron door with your own hands at home, the main thing is to arm yourself with the necessary material and tools.

A high-quality steel door, even with a budget hammer painting, now costs good money. Of course, cheap Chinese products opened with a can opener are not taken into account. Therefore, a homeowner with incomes below the average has no choice but to make a metal door and install it with his own hands, or have it done by some garage handyman. But if you are familiar with the welding machine firsthand, then there is no need to pay for someone else's work - read our article on the manufacturing technology and get down to business yourself.

Preparation for work

At this stage, you need to measure the entrance opening and prepare all the necessary materials. The list of tools is standard - measuring devices, welding and a grinder with a drill.

Advice. To fix the nodes to be welded, be sure to prepare 2-3 clamps, it is much more difficult to work without them.

The opening at the entrance to an apartment or a private house is measured in several places, especially in width. It is necessary to identify the bottleneck in order to focus on this size during manufacture. Apply the measurement results to the scheme according to which you will begin to harvest the metal.

It is assumed that you do not have personal experience in assembling iron doors, so for starters, we suggest making the simplest design. Even if it doesn’t turn out to be too beautiful, you will subsequently line the sash with insulation and decorative overlays that will hide all minor flaws. From constructive materials you will need:

1 standard sheet of steel, preferably cold-rolled, 1.5-2 mm thick per sheet;
for the frame and door frame, take a profile pipe with a section of 40 x 20 mm with a wall thickness of 1.5-2 mm;
canopies 2 pcs. (must be ordered by a turner) and metal plates 4-5 mm thick for their installation;
a simple and reliable door lock, you can - homemade.

Design drawing from the corners

Advice. It makes no sense to take too thick metal (for example, 3 mm), since it will still not work to weld a real armored door, and the product will come out too heavy. The thickness of the sheet and the professional pipe of 1.5 mm is quite enough. Instead of the latter, you can use an equal-shelf corner 45 x 3 mm.

If your welding skills are not yet perfected, then it is better to take a steel sheet 2 mm thick, it is more difficult to burn through due to lack of experience. Also think about future exterior decoration in order to select materials in advance. More information about the preparatory stage for the manufacture of a metal door with wooden lining is described in the video:

Door Manufacturing Guide

The first operation is the preparation of parts. It is performed according to the following scheme:

Cut 4 profiles for the vertical posts of the door frame (or 2 corners), guided by the drawing.
Prepare 4 crossbars of the box from a professional pipe or corners.
For the frame of the canvas, cut 4 horizontal jumpers and 2 racks.
Using a grinder, adjust the dimensions of the steel sheet to fit the dimensions of the door frame.

Drawing of a door from a professional pipe in the entrance opening

Note. Between the door block and the wall, provide gaps of 1 cm around the entire perimeter, as shown in the drawing. At the porches, a gap of at least 4 mm must be observed for the sealing tape.

After cutting the elements of the product, clean the sharp ends and remove burrs, and then proceed to assembly. To make it easier for you to process before painting, at this stage it is recommended to remove all rust from the surface of the workpieces with coarse sandpaper and an iron brush.

Making a door leaf

Traditionally, do-it-yourself welding of an iron door begins with the manufacture of a box, where the finished sash is then inserted. But the personal experience of many craftsmen suggests that it’s worth starting with the canvas - it’s easier to maintain an angle of 90 ° and prevent a “helicopter” in which the product is skewed relative to the frontal plane.

First of all, lay a sheet of metal on a table or stands and level it on a plane, using a building level and pads in the right places. Then proceed in this order:

Lay out the frame blanks on the sheet, departing from its edges by 1 cm and observing 90 ° angles. Catch the upper and lower crossbars at several points by welding, fixing them with clamps.
Repeat the same operation with vertical posts, tacking from the inside of the profile. How it looks visually is shown in the photo above.
Finally weld the frame elements to the sheet and to each other. Install 2 intermediate jumpers and fasten them in the same way.
At the end, grind all the welds with a grinder.

Attention! When connecting the profile pipe to the canvas, do not make continuous seams, otherwise the metal will lead and you will get the same “helicopter” at the exit. Fuse on the inside of the dot every 10 cm.

We weld the box

In our case, the outer frame is assembled from two profiles set at an angle of 90° relative to each other (see above in the drawing). Therefore, first form the outer frame by laying the profiles around the entire perimeter of the canvas and fastening them with tacks.

The next corrugated pipe is laid flat on the 2 previous ones with an overlap and forms the inner frame of the box. Carefully study the photo to understand this combination.

When all frame profiles are in place, grab them, and then spot weld them together. Be careful not to weld the frame to the door leaf by mistake. A visually finished box lying on the sash looks like this:

Before the next operation, you need to separate the canvas and the box, and turn the last one over and put it on the desktop. Now you can carefully boil the joints from the outside and grind them with a grinder. Do not suture from the inside where the sash will fit.

From the inside, the joint does not need to be sealed, only from the outside

An important point. Before removing the frame from the door leaf, put marks on both elements in order to remember their position and not to confuse the top and bottom during assembly.

We mount canopies

To continue work, you must again put the finished sash on the table, only now on top of the box. At this stage, it is important to clearly align all the gaps: the indents from the edge of the canvas to the outer cut of the loot should be uniform around the entire perimeter and be 1 cm, the gap of the porch for laying the seal should be 4-6 mm. To ensure it, slip a gasket of the desired thickness under the steel sheet.

Now about how to properly make canopies:

Determine the position of the canopies by measuring the same distance from above and below - 25 cm. Mark and cut grooves in the canvas with a grinder to weld the hinges directly to the frame profile, and not to the sheet.
Weld a thick plate to the top of the canopy, fitting the parts in place to the end of the loot.
Attach the hinge with the plate to the box in such a way as to maintain a gap of 3-5 mm between it and the plane of the sheet. Grab the part by welding.
Put the second amplifier on the door leaf and weld it to the canopy and sash. Repeat all operations on the other loop.

When the iron door is held on with tacks, check its opening and fit, then weld the canopies completely and clean the seams.

Installing the lock

When a freshly made front door has not yet been placed in the opening, do-it-yourself insertion of constipation is not a problem. First, attach the lock to the end of the canvas and outline its outline.

To cut a groove for a lock, use a grinder and a drill. When you remove the cut piece of metal, align and clean the edges of the opening.

Insert the lock into the groove and drill holes for fastening. Cut an M5 or M6 thread into them and fix the product.
Opposite the hole in the case for the handle and the keyhole, put marks on the door leaf. Cut the same openings in it and put a handle with an overlay on the outside.
Determine the location in the door frame where the bolts of the lock should fit into the holes when closing. Make these grooves, clean them up and check how the constipation works. Adjust or widen the opening if necessary.

When finished, make 4 mounting holes in the box, where the anchor bolts will enter during installation. You can learn more information and important points about the manufacture of an iron door by watching the video:

Product cladding

Whatever way you choose to finish the door, you must first protect it from corrosion - primed and painted. To do this, remove the slag from the welds, clean them and degrease the entire surface, and then apply 2 layers of primer. After drying, paint the product 2 times, starting from the back.

Ennoble entrance doors in the following ways:

insulate from the inside with polystyrene plates, putting them on glue, and sheathe them with plastic panels;
fasten with self-tapping screws the outer and inner lining of wood, in particular, lining;
cover the canvas with leatherette, laying a layer of insulation under it;
buy and install a ready-made kit for MDF doors.

You can make platbands from iron and paint in the same color

The finished product is installed in the entrance opening on anchor bolts, and the slots are traditionally sealed with mounting foam. Here it is important to observe the horizontal and vertical, so that the sash closes well, and the loot is not “littered” inside the apartment. To hide the foam, the box is sheathed on the outside and inside with platbands made of wood, metal or plastic. The correct painting of the door leaf is described in detail in the last video:

Conclusion

Home-made entrance doors made of iron are not inferior to the factory ones in terms of service life, if the technology was followed during the manufacturing process and the design was welded without distortions. Otherwise, problems will appear, first of all, with the lock, which will begin to close poorly and jam. To prevent this from happening, spend more time adjusting all the elements during the assembly process, when mistakes are easier to fix.

Structural engineer with over 8 years experience in construction.
Graduated from East Ukrainian National University. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.