How to make a floor in a bathhouse in a washing room - rules for planning and installation. Waterproofing a bath - we protect the structural elements of bath rooms from moisture Waterproofing in a steam room

High temperatures and humidity, which form the microclimate of the bathhouse, can negatively affect the durability of the structure itself. Water protection is necessary for a bath made of any building material, but it is most relevant for wooden buildings. All structural elements need waterproofing: walls, ceiling, floor and foundation.

If the waterproofing work was carried out incorrectly, this will lead to the growth of mold inside the building. It is worth examining in more detail how waterproofing measures are carried out for each structural element of the bathhouse.

Carrying out waterproofing measures for the foundation, floor, walls and ceiling is possible using different materials.

To properly waterproof a foundation, it is necessary to place drainage material underneath it. A cushion consisting of sand and gravel is suitable for this. Its thickness is approximately 20 centimeters. Including it in the design ensures that water does not stagnate under the foundation itself.

After installing the drainage, the formwork is installed, then the foundation is poured. After the concrete base has hardened, the foundation is waterproofed using horizontal and vertical methods.

Creating reliable hydraulic protection of the foundation is possible with the combined use of vertical and horizontal insulation.

Horizontal waterproofing is carried out using several layers of roofing material, which is laid directly on the foundation. The number of layers should be three or more.

Vertical waterproofing is more difficult to implement than horizontal waterproofing. It should start from the base of the foundation, and from above it should be joined to the horizontal waterproofing.

There are two main technological methods for implementing the vertical waterproofing technique:

• Pasting. To implement it, fused rolled materials are used, which include bitumen and polymer substances. Also, adhesive waterproofing can be carried out using polymer membranes. Important feature membrane material is considered to lack continuous adhesion to the base. As a result, the durability of the membrane does not depend on the deformation of the elements and the entire structure. Membrane materials can be installed on a damp base. The structure of some membranes includes stabilizing components that make them resistant to aggressive substances (alkali, acid, salt) and biological agents. In order to protect membranes from the action of oils, solvent compounds and fatty substances, needle-punched geotextiles are used.
• Coating. Capable of highly reliable protection of the foundation from capillary penetration of liquid. Produced using bitumen-polymer or bitumen mastics. As a result, you can get a seamless coating, which is applied either manually or mechanically using spraying. Before starting waterproofing measures, the foundation should be cleaned of dirt and unevenness should be eliminated using cement building mixtures.

The waterproofing composition is applied in layers, the number and thickness of layers are determined by the depth of the foundation. The next layer must be applied after the previous one has completely dried.

If you use polymer mastic materials when creating a waterproofing foundation for a bathhouse, then the requirements for the surface will not be so stringent: the moisture content of the base can be up to 8%. To check the readiness of the surface to continue work, it is necessary to 1 square meter lay polyethylene over the area. If condensed moisture does not appear on the film during the day, then a waterproofing compound can be applied.

To improve grip concrete base and coating waterproofing, you need to use a primer. A primer is a type of primer used to prepare the base for coating. Bituminous primer (which is used as a primer composition) can be purchased at finished form, but you can also use a mixture made by yourself. You should select a primer that matches the composition of the mastic material.

Plaster waterproofing of the foundation is carried out using a mineral-cement mortar, which includes additional components to increase moisture resistance. The thickness of all applied layers can reach 22 millimeters.

If the construction of a bathhouse is carried out near a reservoir, the quality of the foundation waterproofing is special meaning, they should not be neglected.

Upon completion of waterproofing the foundation, it is necessary to fill the pit with rich clay around the perimeter. This allows you to form an additional waterproofing layer.

Waterproofing walls in a bathhouse

To waterproof bath walls (in the wash room, steam room and relaxation room), a new foil material is used.

In addition to providing waterproofing, it provides heat and vapor protection. The foil material is easy to install, its use does not affect the area of ​​the room.

The foil material option must be chosen based on the purpose of use. So, for the steam room, materials from kraft paper are suitable, and for the washing room and rest room - isokom, isolon, penofol.

Material for hydro- and vapor barrier, based on foil kraft paper, reduces the loss of steam, reduces heat loss through the walls, and prevents the accumulation of liquid in the walls. The absence of polymers in the material makes it possible to use it at a steam temperature of more than 100 o C.

• Implementation of waterproofing using foil material is carried out according to the following stages of work:
• It is necessary to vertically nail bars to the wall with cross-sectional characteristics of 40x40 mm.
• Between the bars you need to place insulation (40 mm thick).
• A foil waterproofing material is laid on top of the beam, which is fixed to it with a construction stapler.
• To join the sheets of waterproofing, use aluminum-based tape.
• On top of the sheets, slats are nailed to the bars.

Next, the boards are fixed for the purpose of cladding.

The boards at the bottom of the walls are not nailed so that after the waterproofing of the floor is completed, it remains possible to isolate the joints of the waterproofing materials of the walls and the floor.

Waterproofing the floor

Waterproofing the floor in the bathhouse is carried out after the insulation of the walls is completed. The technology of waterproofing measures in this case is determined by the material from which the floor is made. The most common flooring materials in a bathhouse are concrete or wood flooring.

A concrete floor is provided in the washing room and steam room, due to the fact that wood quickly rots in high humidity conditions.

• Waterproofing the concrete floor in the steam room and in the washing room is carried out according to two options: Coating.
• The most popular type of waterproofing. To carry it out, the surface is leveled and bitumen or polymer mastic is used. If the instructions specify the application of a number of layers, then they are applied in a perpendicular direction. Pasting. First on are fixed plywood sheets, waterproofing is laid on top of them. This material is asbestos-cellulose or asbestos cardboard, which is impregnated with petroleum bitumen. The edges of the waterproofing are placed on the surface of the walls, after which the joints of the waterproofing with foil wall insulation are secured with aluminum tape. After this, a reinforcing mesh is applied to the waterproofing and a cement screed is poured. Construction tape is used to protect the walls. Tiles are laid on top of the screed.

If the bathhouse is made of logs, then the floors are poured after 1-2 years of shrinkage. If you do this earlier, on concrete floor cracks form.

The best waterproofing of concrete floors in washrooms and steam rooms is achieved in a situation where an additional layer of coating waterproofing material is applied on top of the screed.

Waterproofing a wooden floor in a bathhouse is extremely important because wood is not resistant to moisture. Two options for floor insulation have been developed, which is determined by the design option. Floors come in leaky and non-leaky types.

Based on this, the waterproofing option is determined:

• The leaking type of flooring is used in warm regions and is a variation of cold flooring. In such a structural scheme, liquid flows down through the cracks between the boards and is absorbed into the ground or brought to the surface, which is determined by the type of soil. Such floors are simple and inexpensive to install. In order to increase the service life of a leaking floor, the logs must be treated with a special anti-rotting compound, the supports for the logs must be insulated with roofing felt or glassine, and drying oil must be applied to the boards twice. The completed subfloor must have high-quality ventilation, which will ensure that the floors dry out quickly.
• A non-leaking floor is more difficult to install, but it has the advantage of being warm. This floor option is installed with a ten-degree slope towards the central part in which the drain is located. How to waterproof the floor in a bathhouse if it is not leaking? Beams should be placed on the logs for support, a subfloor should be laid on them, and then roofing felt or polymer film in several layers should be laid. The edges of the roofing material are lubricated with heated bitumen, and the joints of the film are covered with tape (insulated). Next, a layer of heat-insulating material (glass wool or loose expanded clay) is laid. To achieve waterproofing of the insulation, several layers of roofing material coated with bitumen are used. Next, the finished floors are installed.

To ensure effective ventilation and prevent rotting of the wooden floor, after the waterproofing layer, a gap is left in front of the finished floor.

Ceiling waterproofing

It is carried out in a similar way to how waterproofing measures are carried out for walls. First, bars are nailed to the rough ceiling, and insulating material is fixed between them. Next, foil waterproofing is secured to the beams (the metallized side should face the inside of the room). Then he nails another row of bars, and the lining (finish ceiling) is fixed to them. This allows for optimal waterproofing protection of the entire room.

Requirements for waterproofing materials

In order to waterproofing works were effective, it is necessary to select materials that meet the following requirements:

• Weather resistance.
• Resistance to microorganisms.
• Water resistance is the property of not allowing liquid to pass through.
• Water resistance is the ability to retain characteristics when exposed to moisture.
• Durability.
• Vapor permeability.
• Resistance to temperature changes.
• Chemical resistance.
• Resistance to mechanical damage.

If the material meets all the listed requirements, it can be selected for waterproofing measures. When purchasing, you should also consider how to waterproof each structural element of the bathhouse.

Video: finishing and insulating the bathhouse

Thus, waterproofing a bathhouse from the inside is not difficult, although labor-intensive. It is important that this approach allows you to protect the structural elements of the bathhouse from the effects of excess humidity. For waterproofing measures to be most effective, it is necessary to use high-quality and suitable materials, and when choosing them, focus on the design features of the building.

Waterproofing a bathhouse is the best way to increase its durability and functionality. The correct combination of materials and methods of carrying out waterproofing measures will significantly increase the service life of the structure.

High quality waterproofing ensures long-term operation of any building. Bath buildings are particularly special - high humidity and temperature changes, so their protection requires increased attention. Today we will talk about waterproofing the floor in the bathhouse.

Content:

Insulation of the floor in the bathhouse is needed to protect its insulation from getting wet due to capillary action of soil moisture on the structure. The work is carried out sequentially, so before the “gender” issue it is worth paying attention to the waterproofing of the foundation. It is he who creates the first and most powerful barrier to penetration groundwater to the walls of the building. After protecting it with bitumen and roll materials, they begin to install the floor.

Traditional waterproofing of a bathhouse floor

There is traditional and penetrating bath floor insulation. Traditional insulation is, in turn, divided into two types - pasted insulation and coating insulation. Their use depends on the type of materials and purpose of the structure. Let's consider the question in more detail.

Laminated waterproofing of bathhouse floor

Pasted waterproofing of the floor is carried out in the following sequence: first, 2-3 layers of bitumen mastic are applied to a clean, prepared floor surface, then a roll of waterproofing material is laid, and on top of it - finishing material or wooden floor joists.

Polymer films, glass roofing material, hydrostekloizol, reinforced concrete and others are used as roll materials for bathhouse floor waterproofing.

The main disadvantage adhesive waterproofing the bath floor is bad smell bitumen, which is released during work.

Coating waterproofing of the floor in the bathhouse

Coating waterproofing also includes single-component cement and cement-polymer materials. They are applied to the surface using brushes, brushes and rollers.

Penetrating waterproofing of bath floor

Features of using penetrating waterproofing:

• Concrete waterproofing has high density and resistance to low temperatures. It is used in the construction of concrete structures.
• Inorganic waterproofing is used in rooms with high humidity levels.
• Polymer cement materials are environmentally friendly, have high strength and good adhesion. They are universal and suitable for waterproofing concrete and wooden floors. When applied layer by layer using a reinforcing mesh, such compositions, in addition to protecting against moisture, can act as a screed.
• Seamless waterproofing is most effective. It can be used in any premises.

The technology for doing your own waterproofing of a bathhouse floor depends on the material it is made of. In the steam room and washing department You can make a concrete floor, since wood is susceptible to rapid rotting in conditions of high humidity and insufficient ventilation. The plank floor can be laid in the rest room or dressing room.

Waterproofing a concrete floor in a bathhouse

Another option for protecting the floor is to cover it with roll materials:

1. Plywood is fixed to the subfloor, on which the waterproofing is laid. This product is made of cellulose asbestos cardboard treated with petroleum bitumen.
2. The edges of the material are brought onto the walls under the loose lower ends of the front cladding.
3. Foil joints wall material and waterproofing of the floor is insulated using aluminum tape.
4. Then a reinforcing mesh is placed on the waterproofing sheets, which is filled with a cement screed.
5. Floor tiles are laid on top of it.

Advice: ideal protection can be provided by coating waterproofing of a concrete floor in a bathhouse, applied as an additional layer to the surface cement screed.

Waterproofing a wooden bath floor

Waterproofing protection of a wooden floor is of paramount importance, since wood has extremely low resistance to moisture. Wooden flooring in the bathhouse is designed in the form of leaking floors and non-leaking floors. Depending on the type chosen, their protection technology is implemented.

Waterproofing a leaking floor in a bathhouse

Leaking floors are classified as cold floors and are used in the southern regions. Their design provides for the natural flow of water between the cracks of the floorboards and its removal to the outside. The type of soil under the bathhouse depends on its absorption by the soil through the prepared layer of crushed stone or discharge into the sewer or drain hole.

The advantage of leaking floors is that they are simple and inexpensive to install. For a long service life, the logs of such floors are treated with an antiseptic, the log supports are insulated with roofing felt or glassine, and the floorboards are thoroughly impregnated with drying oil. It is recommended to install effective ventilation under the floor - thanks to it, the floors will dry faster.

Waterproofing a non-leaking bath floor

The edges of the roofing material are coated with melted bitumen, and the joints of the film are insulated with tape. On top of the roofing material there is a layer of thermal insulation made of expanded clay granules or mineral wool mats. The insulation is covered with roofing felt in three layers, which are coated with hot bitumen.

The waterproofing of the wooden floor performed in the bathhouse must be protected by finishing flooring boards. Between the finished floor and the insulation layer it is necessary air gap for ventilation of underground space.

Drainage device in the bathhouse to protect against water

The receiving drain ladder is installed in the lower part of the bathhouse floor. Its slope can be achieved by forming a cement screed relief.

When building a bathhouse on sandy soil It makes sense to fix leaking floors. Through them, the water goes into the sand through a 25-centimeter layer of crushed stone, previously prepared under the drain. In other cases, water is discharged through a receiving ladder into a specially equipped pit and transported through its pipe into a drainage ditch or pit.

Proper installation of the drain is in addition to waterproofing the floor. The faster its surface is dried, the longer it will not need repairs.

Watch a video about waterproofing a bathhouse floor:

A bathhouse is a structure in which there is always high humidity. And this has a very negative impact on the entire structure and leads to its destruction. In order to maximize the lifespan of the entire structure, waterproofing of the floor in the bathhouse must be provided, which must be performed using appropriate technology.

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Types of floor waterproofing

Traditionally, floor insulation is divided into coated and glued. To perform coating waterproofing, the floor is covered in several layers with mastic, then covered waterproofing materials, which are produced in rolls. After this, the floors are covered with finishing materials. This type of insulation greatly protects the surface from water ingress, but takes up an extra 6 cm of floor height. One significant drawback is that such insulation will emit an unpleasant bitumen odor.

To make adhesive insulation, you can use reinforced concrete, hydroglass, glass roofing felt and polymer films that do not rot.

For use in a bathhouse, a penetrating type of insulation is more practical. To do this, the floor surface must first be cleaned, treated with a primer, and after hardening, covered with a waterproofing material.

Floor insulation

Often, coniferous wood varieties are used when making bath floors. Because they retain heat perfectly, then they are optimal choice for the steam room and dressing room. However, despite all the wonderful advantages of a wooden floor, it is susceptible to mold and rot and can soon become unusable. You can read how to get rid of mold. To exclude this you need perform waterproofing.

A wooden floor may or may not leak. The coating is leaky if water flows through the cracks in the floor, and if it does not leak, but goes through a special hole for draining outside the structure, then the floor is not leaky.

In order to protect the wooden floor in winter time Thermal insulation measures must be taken to protect against ice. This is done as follows - bars measuring 5x5 cm are fixed under the logs, and covered with rough boards. Polyethylene film or roofing felt in two layers is spread on top of these boards.

Materials for thermal insulation are laid on this flooring - slabs of glass wool or mineral wool. You should not use polystyrene foam, as it is highly flammable. Moisture-proof materials are laid on top of the heat insulators. This way you can protect the floor in cold weather.

However, to protect against moisture penetration into the rough boards, you need to waterproof it as follows:

• We lay several layers of roofing material;
• Coat the surface with bitumen.

After these simple operations, you can begin installation floor coverings. In such cases, it is preferable to use coniferous wood varieties, because they initially have resin and are more resistant to high humidity and rotting. The boards for the floor in the bathhouse must first be planed. Despite the existing moisture-repellent properties, holes must be made along the floor surface that will help remove accumulated water.

Concrete pavement insulation

It is also possible to make a concrete floor in a bathhouse, both in the steam room and in the washing room. The service life of such a floor is up to 25 years, while a wooden one is no more than 6 years. But even in this case, the floor in the bathhouse must be waterproofed. This can only be done when the concrete has completely dried.

A 2 cm thick concrete screed is made on the floor, and waterproofing material is laid over its surface. The surface must first be removed from defects and leveled. To begin with, waterproofing mastic is poured in several layers, and then waterproofing material.

If you waterproof the floor in the bathhouse correctly, you will ensure long-term reliable protection from exposure to moisture.

Video.

The bathhouse - the room in which you steam - is designed to maintain high temperature and humidity. Therefore, it has certain specifics in the choice of materials and designs, namely:

1) To maintain high temperatures even in winter, the structure must be well insulated. This applies to all structures - walls, ceilings and, especially, the floor, since it cools more than other structures and is in maximum contact with water.

2) Since the bathhouse is always humid, when setting it up it is important:

• properly drain water;
• make hydro- and vapor barrier of its structural basis;
• use materials for cladding that do not deteriorate from moisture.

3) Internal facing materials in the bath they are operated at high temperatures (up to 80°C with wet steam and up to 130°C with dry steam). This means that you need to line internal surfaces materials that withstand well high temperatures and do not emit harmful substances.

Choosing flooring material

The pros and cons of each of them are assessed individually by the customer. Wood is a “warmer” material, pleasant to contact with human skin and absolutely environmentally friendly. Being in humid conditions most of the time, the wood will become damp, blacken and rot (and it cannot be treated with antiseptics, because it will “release” chemicals into the atmosphere when the temperature and humidity rise). Therefore, the wooden floor in a bathhouse is usually replaced every 5-8 years, depending on the frequency of use. Concrete is not susceptible to rotting and colonization by microorganisms, so it is more durable.

Bath floor options

Perhaps we should start with the fact that the floor of the bathhouse must have a drain through which water is drained, connected to the sewer or going into a drainage hole. For water to flow by gravity, the floor must have a slope going either to the center of the room or to one of its corners. Typically, this slope is 1-2 cm in height per 1 m of floor length.

Two main types of bath floors, with different constructive solution- wooden and concrete.

1. The wooden floor in a bathhouse is made similarly to the floor in a house, but differs from it in its enhanced waterproofing protection, since it has to deal directly with water and steam. It is a structure of beams that rest on a foundation grillage and free-standing columns. A subfloor is sewn underneath them (the boards must be impregnated with antiseptics and water repellents), on which the insulation is laid. The latter is covered on top with a reinforced waterproofing layer, on which it is laid finishing coating. These can be boards or ceramic tiles laid on a layer of glue on a cement-sand base. The wood must be dense enough so that it does not absorb water, and the tiles must have an anti-slip coating that protects a person from falling on a wet surface and getting injured.

It is important that the subfloor boards and insulation do not become damp from moisture coming from either above or below, otherwise the insulation will lose its heat-saving properties. And if a layer of waterproofing protects it from moisture from above, then from below it is necessary to ensure insulation of the foundation, drainage and external waterproofing of the basement so that water and cold, which cause frost or condensation, do not penetrate into the basement space.

2. The floor in the bathhouse can be made of concrete. Because the bathhouse is small room, and such a floor, although quite material-intensive, has guaranteed period operation.

For comfortable use of the bathhouse, it is important to make the floor warm. Its optimal design is as follows: first, the soil under the foundation is compacted at the required height, then the area is covered with crushed stone, which is leveled with a layer of 12-15 cm. It is advisable to impregnate the crushed stone with bitumen. Concrete is also laid out on this base in a layer of 12-15 cm and leveled using the rule. Then the concrete gains strength in a humid environment for 2-3 days. The next layer is heat insulating. To make it in concrete mixture Expanded clay or polystyrene foam chips are added. In principle, it is possible to lay extruded polystyrene foam, which will need to be protected with waterproofing, and again filled with concrete mortar on top. The top layer of concrete is also necessarily covered with a layer of waterproofing, on which, in turn, the finishing coating will be placed.

What is possible waterproofing of the floor in a bathhouse?

As already mentioned, in the case of a wooden floor structure, waterproofing is installed on top of the insulation, protecting it from moisture that can penetrate through the finishing material of the floor. The waterproofing layer can be made of a coating material on which roofing felt is laid in several layers. As a coating waterproofing material, you can use mastic, which is sold ready for use. or molten bitumen.

You can also use euroroofing felt as insulation, a new generation material that is less labor-intensive to install. It can be used if the insulation can withstand high temperatures, since euroroofing material is a weldable material.

Waterproofing the floor in the bathhouse, if it is made of concrete, it can be roll-coated, penetrating, polymer-cement and cement.

The first condition for a high-quality waterproofing device is the preparation of the base, which should be as smooth as possible and free from bumps and depressions.

Before laying waterproofing consisting of roll-coating materials, it is advisable to prime the surface. After which hot bitumen or cold mastic, on which roofing material is laid in several layers.

Penetrating waterproofing is done using a special powder, soluble in water (for example, “Penetron”, “Infiltron-100”), the effect of which is that it crystallizes in the pores of concrete, not letting water into it, but leaving it permeable to steam.

Polymer cement waterproofing is ready mixture(for example, “Ceresit CL 50”), or a two-component composition in which a mixture of cement with additives is mixed using liquid polymer(“Maxseal Flex”). The good thing about the material is that it can bridge cracks up to 5 mm.

Waterproofing, called cement waterproofing (“Hydrostop”), is a dry mixture specially prepared for waterproofing rooms with high humidity. It contains hydrophobizing and polymer modifying additives. The prepared mixture is called coating waterproofing and applied over the primer onto the prepared and moistened base.

If sheet insulation is used when installing a concrete floor, it should be protected from moisture on both sides using plastic film or roofing felt, covering the ends and ensuring that the seams overlap.

If the territory suburban area allows you to build a bathhouse - there is no doubt about it. It’s worth, perhaps, even postponing other plans, but finding the strength and means to build this structure. In order for it to last a long time and be as comfortable as possible, you will need reliable warm walls, a well-thought-out water supply and drainage system, appropriate heating equipment (stove or boiler), and a concrete floor in the bathhouse.

For the owner country house Having your own bathhouse at your disposal is by no means some kind of unnecessary whim, but a completely reasonable approach. The bathhouse has always been considered not only and not so much as a place for taking hygienic water procedures. A visit to her is always a source of vivacity for the coming days, a burst of vital activity, and getting rid of accumulated negativity both physiologically and psychologically. And how many pleasant minutes do “get-togethers” with friends or girlfriends give in a warm dressing room for a discussion? latest news or rumors, or watching a football match! But in order for the bathhouse to really turn into a kind of “club of interests” or “therapeutic and preventive center”, a lot of work will have to be put in. And installing reliable and comfortable floors is one of the main conditions for success.

If we consider in detail the question of what floors are generally possible in a bathhouse, then all options can be divided into three large groups:

• Clay - used since ancient times. The dense compacted layer of clay served as an excellent water seal, which organized the flow outside the bathhouse. In order to by The llamas could move freely; a wooden flooring was used, which was taken outside for ventilation and drying after each use. (similar wooden flooring are actively used now, with almost any type of flooring in the bathhouse).

Nowadays, when it is possible to use more advanced materials for flooring, clay flooring is no longer used by almost anyone.

• Wooden floors. It would seem that everyone is good for a bath, especially if you use wood of those species that are not afraid of prolonged contact with water (for example, larch). Such floors are quite easy to install, quite warm, and it is not difficult to organize a water drainage system in them. But wood and water remain “antagonists” in any case.

Any wood is always a breeding ground for many microorganisms, insects and rodents. This is combated by impregnating wood with special compounds, but in this case the environmental friendliness of the material is reduced. It is never possible to completely get rid of water absorption by wood, and dampness is the first step to the emergence of putrefactive processes leading to decomposition of the material. Even if a particular type of tree is quite resistant to this, there is still no escape from its absorption of odors, which become very persistent and unpleasant over time.

• Concrete floors - perhaps this the most optimal option. There is no need to talk about durability compared to others. With proper preparation of the base and high-quality filling, they will last a very long time - the service life is comparable to the service life of all other elements of the bath structure, and may even exceed it.

There may be objections - they say that the concrete floor is too cold. And what prevents you from giving it reliable thermal insulation in this case - there are a lot of options for its design. In addition, a heating system can be installed in the thickness of the concrete floor, which is turned on as needed.

The concrete floor is also distinguished by its high versatility - if you do not want to leave a bare surface, you can lay on top of it any type of covering suitable for the conditions of the bathhouse - tiles or porcelain stoneware, stationary or easily removable wooden flooring, which is easy to take out from time to time for preventive drying.

So, everything speaks in favor of a concrete floor. You can move on to considering options for its arrangement. It can be laid directly on the ground, or raised above ground level, with a ventilated subfloor.

To begin with, consider a water drainage system

The main feature of a concrete floor in a bathhouse is the need for drainage large quantity water. This, firstly, involves ensuring the required slope, and secondly, a well-thought-out drainage system.

• The simplest solution, which, however, is applicable only on light sandy soils with high absorbency, is an absorption pit. It can be dug directly under the washing room of the bathhouse - there the water will be collected in one pipe and drained down. The pit itself is about 500 ÷ 1000 mm deep, and with approximately the same side dimensions. The resulting volume is filled with large crushed stone, fragments of broken brick, sand, etc. – so that the filler does not interfere with the free passage of liquid. To prevent the pit from becoming a source of unpleasant stagnant odors, it is imperative to provide a ventilation system for it, leaving vents (vents) in the base with the possibility of through air flow.

• A more reasonable option would be to move such a pit beyond the foundation, and if it is dense or clay soils this will be the only one possible solution. In this case, only a pit is installed under the drain, from where the water will be drained through a pipe system into an absorption pit or drain. If the site is equipped with a sewerage system with water purification in a septic tank, then it is best to install the bath water drain there. The only thing that needs to be done is to organize a water seal so that odors do not penetrate into the bathhouse.

A small hole is also dug for the waste pit, so that after cementing the walls and bottom, its dimensions on all three sides are about 300500 mm. A pipe is built into one of the walls to drain water by gravity into drainage system. The pit itself can be covered with a metal grill. Do not forget about the possibility of its ventilation - leaving air vents in the base is necessary.

• The listed methods are used when the floor is raised above the ground. If the concrete floor of the bathhouse will be poured directly onto the ground, then you need to think through the drainage system in advance so that the pipes installed in the right place are immediately embedded in the screed. There is no need for a pit then - water will be drained directly from the washing room directly into the drainage system. This method is universal; it can also be applied to a pile construction of a bathhouse.

Installation of a concrete floor in a bathhouse on the ground

This method is used when the entire structure of the bathhouse is supposed to be placed on a solid strip foundation. The work is carried out in several stages.

After the device strip foundation you can proceed to work on the concrete floor of the bathhouse

• To begin with, in the space between the finished foundation, the top layer of soil is removed to a depth of about 400 ÷ 500 mm.
• A preliminary backfill is made with gravel up to 150 mm thick, which is compacted with maximum care. It is advisable at this stage to begin planning the slope of the surface towards the drainage hole in the future floor, in order to greatly simplify your task later.

Further actions depend on how many layers of concrete screed you plan to lay. This way you can fill one screed, or make a “layer cake”, where there are two layers concrete surface will be separated by a layer of insulation.

• In the first case, a sand layer with a thickness of 300 to 500 mm is laid on the gravel backfill, which will also require careful compaction.
• The next stage is the installation of a waterproofing layer on top of the sand cushion. For this purpose, roll material is used - roofing felt, which is laid in one or two layers, with a mandatory overlap of each sheet by 100 mm and additional coating of joints and approaches to the walls of the plinth bitumen mastic. If roofing felt is laid in two layers, then the second should be perpendicular to the first.

Fully covered layer of waterproofing - with a slight “approach” to the walls

• So that the floors in the bathhouse are not cold, next step will be the installation of thermal insulation material. For this purpose, ordinary slag from the boiler room can be used - sometimes this is the cheapest option. Expanded clay has excellent performance - it is much lighter, and its thermal insulation efficiency is even higher. You can lay construction felt impregnated with tar - this is a long-known insulation technique. Mineral wool slabs will cope well with this task. high density. The use of expanded polystyrene is somewhat questionable, but it is often used.
• The thermal insulator layer depends on climatic conditions region - it should prevent the penetration of cold from the ground into the bathhouse during the winter. Typically it ranges from 300 to 500 mm. The laid insulation must extend slightly up the walls so that a “cold bridge” does not create at the junction of the floor and walls.
• If used as insulation mineral wool, then another layer of waterproofing is required, for which it will be possible to cover it on top with a thick polyethylene film - one whole sheet, or with overlaps of 200 ÷ 250 mm with mandatory sealing with wide tape.

  mineral wool insulation

• Next, a reinforcing mesh is laid, for which a Ø 5 mm rod should be used.
• A system of beacons and guides for pouring screed is installed taking into account the required slope towards the drain. It will be much more convenient to place the drain hole in one of the corners of the room. If you do it in the center, the configuration of the slopes will turn out to be quite complex in execution.
• The minimum thickness of the finished concrete screed to be poured must be at least 30 mm. As a solution, you can use ordinary cement-sand mixture in proportions 1: 3 (with M400 cement). However, a wide range of Modern construction stores allow you to select ready-made dry mixtures that are perfectly adapted to rooms with high humidity. Their advantages are much more short time final ripening, excellent plasticity, facilitating the pouring process and eliminating the appearance of voids in the thickness, micro reinforcement fiberglass, which gives the floors special strength.
• If you managed to fill the screed with high quality, with a well-leveled surface, then after it has fully gained strength it can already serve as a basis for laying on it ceramic tiles. However, many prefer, after appropriate procedures for hardening the concrete surface, to leave the coating as it is and use removable wooden flooring through which water in the washing room freely passes into the drainage system. Sami wooden gratings It’s easy to dry it in the fresh air for a while.

If you plan to pour a concrete floor in two layers, then the sequence of work changes slightly:

• The initial pouring is carried out directly over the sand and gravel cushion, with the obligatory inclusion of a fairly large fraction of gravel in the concrete solution - about 30 mm. Rough screed it is pulled out along the beacons, and then it is given time to completely harden.
• Waterproofing is installed on top of the hardened rough screed - in the same way as described above.

  roofing felt

• Next, lay a layer of insulation. Again, the options here may be different, but one of the most successful and durable will be the inclusion of a layer of expanded (perlite) sand in the “pie”.

This material has the highest thermal insulating properties, and even a layer of 30 ÷ 40 mm will become a reliable barrier to the cold. From positive qualities sand - its porosity and lightness, comes with one significant drawback - it generates a lot of dust, it is impossible to work with it even in the weakest wind - only indoors or after taking the necessary measures to create a reliable cover. To create a layer of thermal insulation, it is lightly bonded with cement, adding additional fiberglass to the solution for greater strength. However, in the case under consideration, the thermal insulation will be covered with a finishing screed, and micro-reinforcement can be dispensed with.

It is important to correctly observe the proportions and mixing technology. The simplest option:

20 liters of perlite are mixed with 10 liters of water in a concrete mixer;

Add 5 liters of cement (M400), continuing the mixing;

Having achieved complete homogeneity, add another 10 liters of perlite and 1 - 2 liters of water. Stirring continues until the mixture becomes free-flowing.

A technological pause is made for 10 minutes. No supplements should be made at this time.

Then kneading is continued until the solution will not gain plasticity, releasing excess water from its composition.

• The solution is placed on the first screed (on the waterproofing layer), leveled and given time to harden for at least one week.
• Next - everything is as in the first option - floor reinforcement metal mesh, installing a beacon system and pouring screed with a thickness not less 30 mm in compliance with the required slope to the drainage point.
• After the top layer of the insulated concrete floor has completely hardened, it will be ready for further work for external decoration.

cement m400

The video presented to the reader's attention shows the basic principles of laying concrete floors directly on the ground

Concrete floor with ventilated subfloor

The floor of the bathhouse can also be raised above ground level by pouring it along powerful joists. In this case, effective ventilation of the underground space will be ensured (for which special vent windows are left in the basement. This principle is often used when the characteristics of the soil allow the construction of a bathhouse only on a pile foundation.

General diagram of a concrete floor with a ventilated subfloor

• A subfloor made of 30 mm thick boards is installed on these “shelves”. All wooden parts structures must undergo antiseptic treatment in advance.
• When installing a subfloor, pipes must be immediately installed to drain water from the washing room.

• Insulation is laid on top of the waterproofing between the joists - mineral wool or expanded polystyrene panels. You can also use dry expanded clay backfill. The thermal insulation layer on top is covered with a waterproofing film.
• Reinforcing mesh is laid, beacons are installed taking into account the required floor slope.
• Next, fill the screed with a plastic solution, at least 30 mm thick, exactly as described above.

An important note that concerns specifically the installation of the floor in the bathhouse. To avoid problems with damp walls, the floor level is calculated in advance in such a way that, taking into account all the insulating layers and the planned decorative covering, it was not higher than the upper edge of the plinth (flashing crown).