How to make a concrete block at home. Making concrete blocks with your own hands

Wall blocks have long been one of the most common building materials. When building a garage, residential building or other outbuildings for building walls, the cheapest building materials are cinder blocks. They are made from almost any waste material. At the same time, cinder blocks are laid into the walls not only on a sand-cement mortar, but also on a clay mortar, which further reduces the cost of construction. Unlike brick, building blocks are much easier to do at home with your own hands. The process of making cinder blocks and the technology is quite simple and accessible to anyone who wants to save money and who likes to do it himself.

Briefly, what is a cinder block?
According to the prevailing opinion, cinder blocks are usually understood as blocks made by vibrocompression (vibroforming) from a concrete solution, the main components of the solution are slag and cement as the main binder. However, today cinder blocks are conditionally called any building blocks obtained by vibrocompression (vibroforming) from a concrete solution. The presence of slag is not necessary - the components of the concrete solution can be: slag, granite sifting, granite crushed stone, river crushed stone, gravel, brick and concrete breakage, hardened cement breakage, glass breakage, expanded clay and even sand.
Usually the size of the cinder block is in the range of 200 mm by 200 mm by 400 mm or less. There are two types of cinder blocks - hollow and solid. There are a great many varieties of blocks: these are ordinary wall blocks(for example, cinder block, smooth block 140), wall blocks (used for the construction of partitions indoors, has a thickness of 90 mm), decorative blocks for walls (decorative block 190), blocks for fences (decorative block 140, decorative corner block), blocks for facade finishing facade stone), etc. At home, you can also make clay bricks - the choice is yours.

For the manufacture of cinder blocks, you need two things: shape and raw materials.

Form options for cinder blocks

Form from sheet metal 3 mm thick. Together with assistants, using a concrete mixer, you will be able to special efforts"Release" up to 300 pieces of blocks. Is it a lot or a little? Judge for yourself: a 6x4 m garage will require 450 such blocks, and 1000 pieces per floor of a 6.5x8 m house.

Concrete block mold (all dimensions are internal, welds- outside).

Block making mortar prepared like this. Knead a slightly moistened mixture (the amount of water is determined empirically) in the proportion: cement - 1 part, slag or expanded clay - from 7 to 12 (the proportion is given for M400 cement). Having set the form on a flat area, fill it with mortar, tamp manual tamper and, having aligned along the upper edge, cut off the excess with a metal strip. Now carefully remove the form (it is without a bottom) - the block is ready.

Place the form side by side and repeat the process. At the end of the work, do not forget to thoroughly wash the mold with water. After 24 hours, the blocks can already be stored (no more than three in height), making room for the next batch. The size of the form is given in case you decide to lay walls with an additional 1/2 brick cladding. If your building will have walls plastered on both sides, then you can take arbitrary sizes - if only you could then lift such a block with your hands. And when laying walls with a thickness of 50 cm, do not forget to “bandage” with a bonded brick row every two rows of blocks.

The sizes of home-made cinder blocks can be chosen "for yourself".
most the simplest form, which satisfied me the most, I made as follows. I picked up planed boards with a width along the height of the cinder block (140 mm). The length of the board should be no more than 2 m, since working with a longer form is more difficult: you have to do a lot of unnecessary movements. Next you need cross bars. The two extreme crossbars are connected to the longitudinal boards "on sliding grooves" (Fig.).

Form for three cinder blocks

WITH inside longitudinal boards(between the crossbars) every 140 mm, cut with a hacksaw and a chisel transverse grooves with a depth of 7 ... 8 mm. The kerf width depends on the thickness of the separating plates made of sheet metal, textolite, getinaks. Suitable plates from another durable sheet material as long as it's smooth enough. From fig. 1 it is clear how to make a mold. To describe it for a long time and there is no point, I just want to say one thing, that finished form before pouring the solution into it, put it on a completely flat surface. All details of the form made of wood, it is desirable to paint any oil paint, which will provide easier removal of cinder blocks from the mold. Each time before pouring into the form of a solution, all of its internal surfaces wipe with solar oil (diesel oil) or used engine oil. Rub lightly, not too much. To reduce the consumption of the solution, and cinder blocks turned out to be light and with voids, - and this is additional heat in indoors, - forms pour the solution up to half, after which champagne bottles are pressed into the solution.

Form filled with mortar

If the level of the solution does not rise enough after installing the bottles, required amount solution (to the top of the mold) is added with a trowel. After 2 ... 3 hours, the solution will significantly settle and get stronger, then the bottles are pulled out, carefully turning them around the axis, and immediately washed with water, otherwise the solution will firmly stick to them and further use bottles will be useless.
The process of removing cinder blocks from the mold is very simple. Just lightly tap the mold around the perimeter with a hammer and disassemble it. The side boards are easy to separate, but the separation plates are somewhat more difficult to remove. You will have to carefully beat with a hammer on the protruding plate from above and slightly to the side.
Every day, that is, after 24 hours, I took out the almost hardened cinder blocks from the mold and poured the solution into it again. I did not use any compaction of the solution with a rammer or with the help of vibration. A few words about the solution. Despite the fact that it was quite liquid, cinder blocks, after appropriate exposure, acquired such strength that they could then be split or hewn with great difficulty.
I took 9 or even 10 parts of slag for one part of cement of the brand "400". There was no marriage. Why did I tell this? Yes, in order to quickly make a solid number of excellent quality cinder blocks with just a few forms. I made cinder blocks in the evening after work every day, and I will say that this work was not a burden to me.I don’t have a concrete mixer and I knead the mortar manually in a pallet with a capacity of 300 p. .

And one more option self-manufacturing blocks. Sheet metal mold.

I chose the dimensions of the blocks 510x250x215 mm (the volume is 14 bricks). I welded 11 molds without bottoms from sheet iron waste. From the sides welded on 2 handles.

Right on the ground I spread the roofing material, put the form. To prevent the mixture from seizing with the walls of the mold, I wipe them from the inside with a rag moistened with used oil or diesel fuel. I fall asleep there hard expanded clay concrete. Ramming is not very strong. I remove the first form after backfilling the 11th - this is about 10-12 minutes later. The blocks stand still for 12 hours. Then I shift them under a canopy. They harden at a positive temperature for 24 days. I make a canopy from roofing material, tarpaulin or plastic film. Under it, the blocks will be protected from rain and sun.

Tried make blocks with voids. He inserted two wooden round timber, turned into a cone and wrapped with roofing iron. Hollow formers can be round, square, rectangular ... Depending on how the blocks are laid, the wall thickness is 215, 250 or 510 mm.

For thick walls, it is better to make the blocks hollow, for thin walls - filled. Conventionally, walls with a thickness of 215 mm without voids can be called cold, 250 mm - semi-warm, 510 mm with voids - warm.

To make half blocks, I insert a sheet of iron in the center of the mold. In the blanks that are used to form openings in the wall of the house, you have to make wooden plugs to secure the door and window frames.

Tried make building blocks using a vibrator, but the solution goes to the bottom of the mold and the expanded clay does not bind. To prevent this from happening, general form for multiple blocks. The vibrator was fixed on the side. I made the walls of the mold 1/3 higher - this is for concrete shrinkage during vibration.

Fillers can be local non-deficient materials: expanded clay, slag, sawdust, etc. I used cement, expanded clay and sand in a ratio of 1: 4: 1 to prepare the mixture.

The hardest work is the preparation of concrete. It is advisable to use a simple home-made concrete mixer or a ready-made purchased one.

Cinder blocks were and are one of the most popular materials for the construction various designs in construction. Their characteristic strength, as well as good thermal insulation properties, make it possible to build quickly and relatively easily and quite cheaply. Both a professional and an inexperienced bricklayer can build from them.

4.3 / 5 ( 15 votes)

The modern building materials market offers a wide range of wall blocks. But not everyone knows that it is quite possible to reduce the cost of building a private house, cottage, garage or utility room. Instead of buying a brick or cinder block, it is enough to start making them yourself. To do this, you need to use a machine for the production of blocks, and if the budget does not allow, make a vibrocompression machine yourself.

Inexpensive factory models of vibrating machines do not have high performance, but this is not required for private use. True, buy a machine for construction small house, where about a thousand blocks of a standard size are required, it will not be entirely profitable. Therefore, as an option, you can consider renting equipment for certain period. This will be enough for the procurement of building materials for the future.

Factory machine for making building blocks with your own hands

Varieties of building blocks

Brick is still the main material in the construction of high-rises, but for low-rise construction it is cheaper to use other building materials. If you exclude wood, which is now expensive, the choice will still be varied. Modern wall materials are made from:

• foam concrete;
• slag concrete;
• aerated concrete;
• expanded clay concrete.

Block characteristics comparison table

As a filler for cinder blocks, a variety of and sometimes exotic materials are used, which are waste products: screenings, glass and brick cullet, sawdust, wood chips.

Let's first consider how expanded clay blocks and cinder blocks are made independently, as the most budgetary among all the above building materials.

Expert Opinion: Cinder Block Making Machine

If you do not possess necessary knowledge and skills for self-manufacturing of the machine, we advise you to rent equipment. If you want to independently manufacture a machine for the production of building blocks, use only quality materials. We advise you to pay great attention to the stage of creating a design drawing and calculate all the nuances in advance. Take factory equipment as a sample or already finished equipment friends and acquaintances.

Dmitry Orlov

DIY claydite blocks

If there are no problems with expanded clay in your region, you can consider that you are lucky: expanded clay concrete, despite its cheapness, is rarely found on sale, but this construction material characterized by a whole range of positive properties. For the manufacture of expanded clay blocks you will need:

• actually expanded clay;
• cement;
• sand;
• water.

The main material for creating the mixture will be expanded clay of fine fraction

When mixing the solution, it is important to follow a certain sequence: expanded clay is added to the water, then cement, and finally sand. The proportions of the solution are as follows: for nine liters of water, use 54 kg of expanded clay, 9 kg of cement and 27 kg of sand. You will get a mixture weighing about 100 kilograms, with the output of finished blocks in the amount of 9-10 pieces.

Manufacturing technology of expanded clay concrete blocks

If it is not possible to use specialized machine(such equipment is not cheap), expanded clay concrete can be produced on a non-industrial scale using special matrices. You will also need an appropriate container for the solution, a flat platform and formwork made of wood or metal in the shape of the letter "E".

To reduce temporary losses and reduce labor costs will allow a concrete mixer - standard equipment in the builder's arsenal. With a shortage of time, the problem is solved by using a vibrating machine; a simple model of such a machine can be made independently.

To do this, it is enough to attach a low-power, but high-speed electric motor to the form, which is turned into a full-fledged vibrator with the help of an eccentric. Matrix oscillations force the mixture to be distributed in the mold as densely and evenly as possible, improving strength characteristics. finished products. Vibrating presses manufactured in the factory have maximum productivity: professional machines are equipped with additional equipment that allows you to automate the process, eliminating the heavy manual labor. But such vibropressing machines cost a lot.

Do-it-yourself cinder block production

Expanded clay - beautiful and inexpensive material for the manufacture of building blocks, but even more in an economical way construction is the use of cinder blocks. Possessing comparable characteristics in terms of sound and heat insulation, slag concrete is made from materials whose cost is an order of magnitude lower.

The industry is not interested in producing cinder block building material - it is more economically profitable to produce expensive analogues (building blocks made of foam concrete, aerated concrete, brick). But there is special equipment for the formation of cinder blocks on sale, and a lot. The range of prices for such vibrating machines is huge: from simple models with a static matrix, which can be assembled in garage conditions from improvised materials, to fully automated lines.

Cinder block: manufacturing technology

A modern cinder block has dimensions of 188x190x390 mm, a full-bodied building material is characterized by sufficient strength for arranging foundations and multi-storey building, hollow ones are used in all other cases. The voids can be round, rectangular or square shape, the number varies from one to 8-10 voids, the voidness index lies in the range of 25-50%. Practically not inferior in terms of strength to monolithic products, hollow cinder blocks can save almost twice as much expensive cement.

For quick and high-quality mixing of the mixture, it is advisable to use a construction concrete mixer

Concrete blocks are often used for private and commercial construction. The most popular variety of this artificial stone is aerated concrete, or in other words autoclaved porous concrete. It has unsurpassed energy-saving and heat-insulating properties, light weight and easy to handle. In addition, it is easy to do it yourself.

The technology for manufacturing aerated concrete blocks for individual needs and on an industrial scale will be the topic of today's article.

Preparatory stage

Materials for production

The use of aerated concrete blocks in construction has many advantages.

We list the main ones:

• one 30-kilogram block can simultaneously replace about 30 bricks, which affects the construction time of the building;
• the light weight of porous concrete makes it possible to build private housing construction without the use of cranes and other special equipment;
• autoclaved gas blocks can be easily processed with ordinary plumbing tools.

The simplicity of the production process makes it possible to produce the required amount of this building stone directly on construction site or next to it.

All you need is an instruction describing the whole process, and raw materials:

• water;
• cement;
• lime;
• quartz sand.

Note!
To obtain a porous structure of aerated concrete, a suspension of aluminum powder is used.
This is an active substance that can harm human health.
Remember to use protective gear.

Devices and mechanisms

Not so long ago, the complexity of the technology did not allow the production of various concrete blocks at home, without the use of specialized production lines. At present, the situation has changed dramatically. There is equipment for: for the manufacture of aerated concrete blocks, for cinder blocks, for bricks and so on.

In the case when aerated concrete is produced not for own needs, but for the purpose of subsequent sale, it makes sense to pay attention to other equipment:

• semi-automatic production lines producing 2-4 cubic meters finished products per day - good for individual entrepreneurship or medium-sized enterprises;
• automatic production complexes that allow the production of up to 100 cubic meters of aerated concrete blocks in 24 hours - suitable for a large enterprise engaged in the production of building materials.

Manufacturing process

The main part of the technological process

The production of aerated concrete blocks begins with the mixing of raw materials. Considering that this building material has a porous structure and low weight, from a small amount of sand, cement and lime, enough a large number of finished items.

For convenience of presentation, we will divide the further process into several stages:

1. Lime, water, cement and quartz sand are poured into a concrete mixer, where they are thoroughly mixed.. After 5-10 minutes, a small amount of aluminum powder dissolved in water is added there. This substance, having entered into chemical reaction with lime, promotes the release of hydrogen. It is this gas that forms pores in the block with sizes from 1 to 2 mm, which occupy the entire volume of aerated concrete.
2. Immediately after adding the aluminum suspension, the mixture is poured into special molds, where it swells, increasing in volume several times.
3. So that the pores are evenly distributed, and the aerated concrete hardens faster, the forms are placed on a special table or platform, where the future aerated concrete is subjected to prolonged vibration loads.
4. On last step with the help of metal strings, irregularities are cut off from the upper edge of the finished products, and the blocks are calibrated to the desired size.

Advice!
In order to quickly cut and calibrate aerated concrete, special milling machines can be used.

Autoclaving

Equipment for the manufacture of aerated concrete blocks includes autoclave chambers. In them, hardened blanks are subjected to 12-hour steam treatment at a temperature of 190 degrees Celsius and a pressure of 12 kgf / sq. cm.

After this procedure, aerated concrete acquires greater strength and a homogeneous structure, and also gives minimal shrinkage after construction is completed.

It can be used as:

• heat insulator;
• sound insulator;
• load-bearing wall material.

By the way, the excellent energy-saving qualities of aerated concrete, which has an excellent thermal conductivity coefficient, makes it possible to build houses from blocks up to 400 mm thick without using additional materials, retaining heat ( mineral wool, polypropylene, polystyrene).

Non-autoclave method

In the manufacture of aerated concrete, it is not necessary to autoclave it. But such material will be less durable and have worse characteristics.

Finished product properties

The aerated concrete obtained by the method described above has the following properties:

• low density (comparable to the density of a solid pine) - it is 5 times less than that of monolithic concrete and 3 times - at the brick;
• compressive strength, which allows the construction of 2 and 3-storey buildings from aerated concrete;
• moisture absorption, which does not exceed 20%, which is comparable with the same brick;
• frost resistance is 2 times greater than that of a brick;
• high thermal conductivity - 2 times less than that of pine, 15 - for concrete;
• excellent soundproofing properties - with a wall thickness of 300 mm, it completely isolates sound with a power of 60 dB;
• withstands exposure to an open flame at a temperature of 900 degrees Celsius for 4 hours;
• aerated concrete is easy to saw with a conventional hacksaw for wood;
• the cost of its purchase or manufacture is lower than that of similar materials.

Conclusion

The video in this article will help you learn more about the production technology of various building materials.

Building a house from blocks is moving faster than from bricks. You can buy them freely, but many make building blocks with their own hands.

Blocks in construction are used not only for the construction of walls. It also speeds up the use of building blocks for the foundation. Of course, these blocks must be very dense: 1.5 tons per 1 cubic meter. Making blocks with your own hands, if you look, is not such a super complicated matter.

Where to begin?

And the beginning of everything is the manufacture of forms.

Forms

On sale there are molds for building blocks standard sizes. And at home you can make building blocks sizes that suit you. We take sheet metal, cut out the required shape of the workpiece from it and weld the shape. They also make molds from wood, they are good for adobe blocks. The bottom is not needed here. But the handles on the sides will come in handy, it’s more convenient to work with them.

Material for homemade building blocks

What makes DIY building blocks good is that they use material that you already have or you can easily purchase.

Basically, blocks are made on the basis of cement with different fillers, but craftsmen, like manufacturers, sometimes do without it. Depending on the material chosen, it is possible to manufacture home-made building blocks of the following types:

• cinder concrete;
• blocks based on liquid glass;
• adobe;
• chip concrete or arbolite.

How the filler is used:

• ash;
• slag;
• screenings;
• crushed stone;
• gypsum;
• perlite;
• expanded clay;
• sawdust;
• straw;
• broken brick and more.

Blocks without cement

The manufacture of building blocks using this technology is not available to everyone, because the mixture contains liquid glass. Is it possible to negotiate with the nearest reinforced concrete plant and buy the main component there. The mix will be:

• two dozen parts of river sand;
• one and a half dozen parts of liquid glass;
• 4 parts of chalk;
• 3 parts of slaked lime;
• 2 parts kaolin.

Manufacturing process

• First, the sand is sifted;
• chalk is added;
• everything mixes well;
• slaked lime is introduced;
• kaolin or brick crushed to a state of powder;
• liquid glass.

The feedstock should be homogeneous, pasty. Before pouring this dough-like mass, moisten the molds from the inside. If you wish, you can building blocks give color. To do this, add:

• chalk of any color;
• powdered red brick.

Fillers are added to such blocks: slag, expanded clay, shavings. Their strength is high - they are much stronger than cement.

Expanded clay blocks

Expanded clay concrete blocks are one of the types of cinder blocks, where expanded clay serves as a filler.

Compound

• cement - 1 part;
• expanded clay - 5 parts;
• sand - 3 parts;
• water - about one part.

Technology

The manufacturing technology of expanded clay concrete building blocks is, in general, the same as any other:

• the starting material is placed in pre-lubricated molds;
• rammed;
• the form is removed after 10 minutes;
• the product remains in place;
• after 12 hours it is transferred to a place protected from precipitation and direct sunlight.
• in warm weather, the blocks will become hard after a little less than a month.

If you plan to make thick walls (about 0.5 m), then blocks are better with voids. To do this, inserts made of wood are inserted into the mold: round or square. And so that they can be taken out well, before inserting them, wrap them in roofing iron.

Advantages

• light weight;
• frost resistance;
• breathability;
• moisture resistance;
• strength;
• small cost.

A house made of expanded clay concrete blocks is built faster than a brick house, less mortar is needed for masonry.

adobe blocks

Components

For this type of blocks, the material in literally, is under your feet. All it takes is:

• clay;
• straw;
• river sand;
• water.

Selection features

In order for the characteristics of the building blocks to meet all the requirements, you need to know something about the features of the selection of components:

1. It is better to prepare clay in the fall, cover it with a film and let it winter - this will improve its quality.
2. Sand first sift, freeing from impurities.
3. Straw can be taken to the field where wheat, rye or barley have just been harvested. If the straw remains from the harvest of the past year, then the quality will not be the same - after all, after lying down, it begins to sing.

How to determine the percentage of components

• clay - 1 cu. m;
• straw - 20 kg;
• sand - 25%.

In order not to spoil the entire batch of blocks, you need to make a small experimental batch. So we do it like this:

• we combine all the components in small quantities and write down the proportions;
• we make a batch;
• form a ball;
• leave in the sun to dry for about 1 hour;
• We throw it on the ground at a height of a meter and a half.

If all the components are matched in the right proportions, then the ball will remain intact. Added more sand than it should? It will break or crack. Not enough sand? The ball will float. So, in a practical way, we select the most best option.

Preparation

To prepare the mixture for several dozen blocks at once, you need to make a recess in the ground: round with a diameter of about 2.5 m or rectangular 1.5x2.5 with a depth of half a meter. Line the bottom with polyethylene. Although some kind of ready-made container is also suitable: a trough or old bath. Then everything is as it was done in the old days: we put on high boots made of rubber and walk, mixing everything until smooth.

Manufacturing

• While the batch is in the manufacturing stage, we are preparing a platform for products: we select a flat sunny place;
• we bring the mixture with buckets;
• filling out forms;
• we compact;
• we remove the excess by drawing a board along the upper edges of the form;
• remove the form.

Finished blocks should dry. This usually takes several days. It is important that they do not get rain. Then they are transferred to a shelter and dried again. Will be ready in 10 days.

A house made of adobe blocks turns out to be very warm and comfortable. In addition, this building material is environmentally friendly, durable, fireproof. It is used for buildings no higher than 2 floors.

Sawdust concrete blocks (arobolit)

The technology for manufacturing blocks from sawdust concrete is similar to the manufacture of adobe blocks, but the components need not be mined, but purchased.

Components

Before you start manufacturing, you need to purchase:

• cement - M300 or higher;
• sand - a fraction no larger than 1.8 Mcr;
• not slaked lime;
• sawdust (softwood).

Preparing the Components

• sift sawdust;
• mix dry cement and sand;
• lime here and mix again;
• add sawdust and repeat the mixing procedure;
• pour water;
• In order for the components to adhere well to each other, we add calcium chloride or alumina sulfate;
• we control the quality of the mixture.

For quality control, roll the ball and squeeze it in the palms. If water flows, then there is too much of it in the mixture, if the ball crumbles, there is a lot of sawdust or sand.

Let's start manufacturing

• We line the form with plastic wrap;
• lay the mixture;
• rammer;
• without removing from the mold, leave to harden for 5 days;
• take it out of the mold and dry it further.

The drying process will take a long time - from 1.5 to 3 months: it all depends on the mass of the block.

Equipment

If the construction is to be large-scale, then it may make sense to invest in equipment for building blocks. For example: there is a mini-machine for the production of wood concrete RPB-1500 BL on sale. Its productivity is 1 sawdust block with dimensions of 19 x 19 x 39 cm per minute. Produced by a Russian manufacturer - the company INTEK.

Vibrating tables are widely used in the manufacture of building blocks. They allow you to solve the problem of ramming mixtures. The vibrating table consists of:

• movable table;
• engine;
• control panels;
• sometimes a transformer is included.

Compaction of the working mixture occurs under the influence of vibration created by the vibration motor.

Working cycle

• on the movable table we set the form;
• put in the mold half or completely dry mixture;
• start the engine;
• drying.

How to choose?

There are 3 types of vibrating plates capable of compacting material by weight:

• up to 75 kg;
• from 75 to 160 kg;
• from 160 kg.

Based on these indicators, you should choose the best vibrating table for yourself.

Manufacturers

They are released by:

• Russian company VPK;
• Stroymash LLC;
• plant "Red Poppy" in Yaroslavl and others.

Vibrating tables are also supplied by foreign manufacturers:

• Spain - Enar and Hervisa;
• Germany - Wacker;
• Italy - Batmatic;
• France - Paclite.

For the manufacture of concrete blocks, the following fillers are suitable: slag, ash, coal combustion waste, screening of crushed stone (stone, granite), brick waste, gravel, sand, sawdust (after processing), expanded clay, perlite, sand and gravel mixture, granulated slag, hall , crushed stone, sawdust, gypsum, brick fight, etc.

Solution for making cinder blocks

Solution for cinder blocks: coal slag: coarse sand (expanded clay): gravel 5-15 mm, cement M500, water (7: 2: 2: 1.5: 1.5-3). It is important to control the amount of water so that the blocks do not spread when removed. The solution should crumble when it falls to the ground, but it should unite in the fist.

For the plasticity of the blocks, you can add a plasticizer (5 grams per block - strength, water resistance and frost resistance, less cracks) during vibrocasting, it is also possible with vibrocompression, but you need to add too much for the effect, and this is expensive.

In order for cinder blocks to be durable, you need to consider:

The quality of the sand - you need a large one.

The slag is ideal for blast-furnace.

Cement - high-quality M400.

Equipment - in order to better press, you need to achieve vibrocompression.

Time of preparation and storage of concrete blocks

mother with a tape is possible in a day. Complete drying after a couple of months. A day later, the blocks can already be worn - they do not break, put in a week.

When using a plasticizer, finished blocks can be removed from the site and stored after 6-8 hours. Without UPD - in two days. It is necessary to store ready-made cinder blocks in pyramidal piles of 100 pieces with a small (2-3 cm) gap between the blocks - so that the "sides" dry out.

At first, concrete can be prepared by hand. In the future, more efficient and easier - on electric concrete mixer with a volume of 0.2-0.5 cubic meters. m.

Production site - a room with a flat floor, good ventilation/heating or a flat outdoor area under a canopy.

Advantages of cinder blocks

• low cost
• high speed of construction from cinder blocks;
• good sound insulation
• good thermal insulation
• you can make for yourself and for sale

Negative opinions on making concrete blocks with your own hands

The machine is profitable only in the presence of cheap or "free" raw materials, or with huge amounts of work.

A hollow block made anywhere is more expensive than a section of wall of the same size made by a removable or fixed formwork the more you waste your time and energy. Therefore, basically, the sale of these machines is just an opportunity to make money on others.

An example of the cost and cost of making homemade blocks

The production of one cinder block takes 0.011 cubic meters of solution, in a ratio of 1: 7 (cement: granulated slag), i.e. 1 bag of cement = 36 blocks.

Legislation

Decrees of the Government of the Russian Federation of 13.08.97 No. 1013, Gosstandart of the Russian Federation No. 86 of 08.10.2001 and Gosstroy of the Russian Federation No. 128 of 12.24.2001, the list of products requiring mandatory certification does not include building concrete blocks with various fillers (slag, expanded clay , sawdust, etc.), as well as vibroforming equipment for their production.

Making a mold with your own hands for casting concrete blocks

The form for self-production of cinder blocks is a box of 3 mm metal without a bottom with handles. To make the front of the blocks more even, they need to be dried on a rubber band moistened with a solution of some kind of detergent.

We start the manufacturing process

What is needed for that? First of all, you need to decide on the size. I propose to stop at the following sizes: 200x200x400 mm and 200x200x200 mm (these are "halves" and they will definitely be required during the work).

Now let's prepare the formwork. To do this, it is necessary to saw old furniture boards from chipboard of appropriate sizes and connect with screws through transverse and longitudinal partitions, sawn from a 40 mm board (see figure).

This form is convenient because 4 blocks can be laid in it at the same time. Next, we put the form without a bottom on a flat base under a canopy, covered with plastic wrap. Their inner surfaces are smeared with used machine oil. This is done to make it easier to screw the blocks after they harden.

Now we will prepare the material from which we will make blocks. In a concrete mixer, and in its absence, pour gravel, sand and a little lime into any container. After it is mixed, add cement.

The ratio when laying should correspond to the proportion - 1 part of cement to 4 parts of aggregate. All this is thoroughly mixed and diluted with water to the desired consistency. The solution should be such that it would be convenient to lay it in the form.

Further, two shovels of mortar, a reinforcing wire, fit into the mold. On all this, it is still necessary to place two glass bottles plugged with stoppers. The bottles will play the role of sealed glass blocks and thanks to them two air chambers are created inside the block, creating thermal and sound insulation.

After laying the bottles, a layer of mortar with reinforcing wire is poured again. From above, everything is covered with an additional layer of mortar, which is smoothed out with a trowel. When pouring the solution, it is necessary to compact it well so that voids do not form inside the mold. When the concrete hardens, it is removed side wall forms and blocks are taken out.

It is better to make blocks in cloudy weather, since the time for the evaporation of water from the solution increases, which reduces the likelihood of cracks on ready blocks. If, however, you work in hot weather, then the foms must be placed in the shade and it is advisable to cover them in order to reduce the rate of water evaporation. Using this method you save up to 60 percent of the funds.

That's about all I wanted to say about folk way making concrete blocks with your own hands at home.

Do-it-yourself concrete block making video

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