How to calculate how many cubes you need for a house. Calculation of the amount of timber

Before starting the construction of a house from a bar, many consumers ask themselves: how much timber is needed for the construction of the proposed structure. To answer this question, you can go two ways:

• Use the beam calculator;
• Read the article below about calculation of the amount of timber needed to build a house.

And if everything is more or less clear with a calculator, then it is much more difficult to do it yourself. Let's look into this issue.

Factors affecting the amount of timber needed to build a house.

The main thing to consider when calculating the amount of timber per house is:

• What type of timber will be used in construction;
• How much timber do we need;
• How many units of timber are in 1 cubic meter;
• Features of the project of a house from a bar or a cottage.

Calculation of building timber in cubic meters.

And so, how calculate the amount of timber in 1 cubic meter simple method? It should be noted that the following example is not exact. To make a more accurate calculation, you must have a project of the future home.

To calculate the amount of timber in 1m 3, you must:

• Calculate the perimeter of the building;
• Multiply the perimeter by the height;
• The product of the perimeter and the height must be multiplied by the thickness of the product.

For our case, the formula will look like this: V \u003d h * b * l \u003d 0.15 * 0.15 * 6 \u003d 0.135 m 3,

• h is the height of the beam;
• b- width;
• l- length.

We find out how many units of lumber are in 1 cube as follows: 1 / 0.135 \u003d 7.41 pieces.

After carrying out all the above calculations, we will get the result of the number of cubes of timber required to build a building.

To calculate the beam needed for finishing internal walls, we use a similar method. Let's take a specific example, how to calculate the amount of timber for a bath 5 * 10 meters, 3 meters high.

We will conditionally determine that the size of 150 * 150 mm will be used during construction.

• (5 m - width + 10 m length) × 2 \u003d 30 m - the perimeter of the building.
• 30 perimeter × 3 height = 90 m 2 - wall area.
• 90 area × 0.15 material thickness = 13.5 m 3 - needed to build a box from a 5 × 10 beam 3 m high.

So here in a simple way we calculated the amount of timber for the walls, which is 13.5 m 3. But, you need to take into account that due to the presence of window and door openings, the amount of material used will be less than the calculated one.

Often, craftsmen do not take this moment into account, it is believed that it would be even better to add about 20% in reserve, as a result we will get: 13.5 + 20% = 16.2 m 3 of timber is necessary for a 5 * 10 m building.

Features of the beam, which must be taken into account in the calculation.

When building a house from a bar, the crown is laid first, which should be slightly thicker than the main bar. The first crown is made of a thicker beam, in the future the mass of the whole house will press on it, so it is additionally recommended to treat it with machine oil or an antiseptic.

In the above calculation, this nuance was not taken into account, it must be calculated separately.

Calculation of the beam in units.

After you have calculated the amount of timber in m 3, you can easily find out how much timber will be needed in units (pieces).

Consider a table of common sizes for this 6m long product:

Table of the amount of timber in 1 m 3 for calculating timber per house.

In the above example, where we indicated the cubature of the beam for the bath, we will carry out a further calculation of materials in pieces.

In order to calculate the amount of material per house in pieces, we carry out such a calculation, for this the sum of 13.5 m 3 must be divided by the cubic volume of the used timber, in our case it is equal to 0.135 m3 based on the table: 13.5: 0.135 \u003d 100 pieces.

If you correctly calculate the amount of timber in pieces, then when buying a timber, you will be able to control whether the seller ships all the material to you.

The thickness and height of the beam.

The material may have different thickness and height, the following are the main dimensions:

• 100*100 mm.
• 100*150 mm.
• 150*150 mm.
• 150*200 mm.
• 200*200 mm.

If everything is clear with the height, the higher the beam, the fewer interventional seams, the faster construction works, and naturally, the number of pieces of timber for building a house is decreasing. But the width in this case is more important, especially when building for all-season living.

Attention: Sometimes timber manufacturers indicate the dimensions of the timber, which may differ from the real ones, for example, a timber of 150x150 mm actually has a size of 140x140 mm.

The consequences of buying such a beam will be very deplorable, if a beam of 150x150 mm in size is needed for a height of 3 meters, 20 pieces, then with a size of 140x140 mm - 21 pieces and a half, and this is one and a half crown rows.

If you are planning to live in a house all year round, then it is recommended to use a beam with a thickness of 200 mm. It is also necessary to take care of the insulation of the walls from the timber, the best option will be foam or mineral wool 10 cm thick.

When constructing a bath, it is advisable to use a material thickness of 150 mm, it is quite enough to maintain the temperature for a short time. Well, if you still decide to build country house for a summer holiday, then in this case, the walls of a bar of 100x100 mm will be just right.

Building a wooden house requires careful preliminary calculation and preparation of the most detailed budget. Any big building is associated with significant costs, and it is important to initially correctly assess the financial possibilities and present all future costs.

An important expense item is the foundation, but the “box” itself will become the most expensive part, so you need to perform a preliminary calculation of the material for a house from a bar. In this case, it is advisable to consult with a professional architect and builders who know the real prices on the material market.

Which timber to choose for construction

First you need to choose the material for the house from the timber. It differs both in characteristics and in cost:

• Most cheap option – ordinary timber natural humidity. It is the most common, but the least reliable. During the drying process, it can significantly deform, which leads to the formation of cracks and crevices in the walls.
• Dried timber - wood material, which has undergone preliminary chamber drying. Most of the natural moisture is removed from it, so it will be more reliable, but the cost will also increase significantly.
• Profiled timber is an even more expensive type of material that will allow you to build a completely smooth walls without gaps between the crowns. Special system of spikes and grooves on the top and lower sides will allow you to build a building with the most durable walls.
• Glued laminated timber - the leader in cost. This is not exactly a bar, since it is not made from solid wood, but from several layers of wood glued together. Such material requires long processing, and it will be very expensive.

Thus, the calculation of material for building a house from a bar begins with an analysis of the construction market and the choice suitable material. When this issue is resolved, you can proceed directly to the calculations.

How much material is required to build a log house

The calculation of the material for building a house from a bar can be carried out using a special calculator program that is posted on construction sites. This will speed up the calculation, but the result will still only be an approximation. You can also calculate the material manually using the following parameters:

1. Bar section. It depends on the required thermal conductivity: for a house without additional insulation, a beam with a cross section of 200x200 mm is required: this is quite expensive, so future owners often prefer to purchase thinner and cheaper material, and then insulate the building with inexpensive materials. Build a building for permanent residence permissible from a bar with a thickness of 150x150 mm or 150x100 mm.
2. House dimensions. Standard project is a building made of timber 6x6 meters in size, as it will allow not to connect the timber to each other.
3. The height of each floor. Minimum Height from floor to ceiling is 2.5 m, often it is made larger, so that later you do not limit yourself in the choice of furniture and finishes.
4. area of ​​windows and doorways. It is clear that the larger the window area, the less material is required. When developing a building project, the dimensions of the openings are indicated in the drawings, these values ​​\u200b\u200bare used for calculations.

An example of calculating materials for a standard house

Great help with counting required amount timber for building a house will provide. But let's try on simple example perform simple calculations.

The calculation of materials for a house from a bar requires making fairly simple calculations that make you remember school lessons geometry.

Preliminary calculation of the material for a log house:

Required to build small house with linear dimensions 6x6x2.5 meters. For construction, you need to purchase an ordinary bar with a section of 200x200 mm. It is planned to make a door with an opening size of 800x2000 mm in the building, in addition, it will have two windows measuring 600x800 mm.

Let's move on to the calculations:

• The perimeter of the house: 6 * 4 = 24 meters. We multiply this value by the height: 24 * 2.5 \u003d 60 square meters. meters - the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls.
• We calculate the area of ​​windows. We multiply 0.8 * 2 \u003d 1.6 square meters. m. - door area, 0.6 * 0.8 * 2 \u003d 0.96 m. - area of ​​\u200b\u200btwo windows. These values ​​must be subtracted from total area walls: 60 - 1.6 - 0.96 - 57.44 sq. m. - this is the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house.
• Since the thickness of the timber is 0.2 meters, the volume of the walls is calculated as follows: 57.44 * 0.2 = 11.488 cubic meters of timber will be required for construction.

Important points when calculating the material

If you need to build a house from a bar, the calculation of materials will always be approximate. It is imperative to add at least 15% to the obtained value, which will be required for trimming, damage, arranging corners, etc.

The timber is required not only for the construction of the box, but also for the installation of rafters, floor logs, ceilings, etc. As a result, in the final calculations, the amount of timber increases by about a fifth.

The exception is the construction of a house from a finished house kit. In this case, together with the architect, the exact amount of materials that will be required for construction is calculated, and all parts are pre-treated in the factory.

A ready-made set of numbered parts arrives at the construction site, from which the building is being erected, like a large constructor. All the details are exactly adjacent to each other, nothing needs to be adjusted and modified. You only have to buy fasteners and heaters, and the work can be completed faster.

The calculation of lumber should take into account not only the purchase of the timber itself. You will need an inch board for the construction of a rough and fifty for a finished floor of a given area, material for construction roofing cake and other expenses.

Every wooden element used in construction must be treated with antiseptics and flame retardants, finished house needs to be painted or otherwise finished. The walls can be sheathed with drywall and additionally insulated.

Of course, during construction it is very important to correctly calculate the right amount of materials. After all, each log costs a lot of money, and its transportation is associated with certain difficulties. And if a mistake was made in the calculations, this can lead to serious difficulties. Our online lumber calculator will help you do this online.

With a lack of material, you have to interrupt building process, and wait until the timber is delivered in the right amount. If too much timber was bought, then there will be a few extra logs, the money for which was thrown to the wind.

But if you use a calculator when calculating the amount of timber, you will get the most accurate result. It is also important that the calculator is very easy to use, thanks to which even an inexperienced person will be able to minimum terms make the necessary calculations.

First you need to enter the approximate dimensions of the future house - the height, length and width of the walls. Of course, to know this data, you need to have

Only then will you be able to use accurate data.
The next step is to choose the length of the beam. The beam can have different lengths, usually from 5 to 12 meters. This allows you to choose optimal length for any project, without overpaying extra money and without wasting time connecting two elements.
The last stage is an indication of the cross section of the beam.

In private construction, a bar with a section from 150x150 to 200x200 is usually used. The choice of a suitable timber depends on the desire and capabilities of the future owner of the house.


But it is worth noting that the thicker the beam, the better heat and sound insulation characteristics it will have. However, at the same time, the cost also increases. building material. So, you should seriously approach the choice of material so that it meets not only your requirements, but also its cost does not make the material inaccessible to you.

10:0,0,0,260;0,290,260,260;290,290,260,0;290,0,0,0|5:171,171,0,260;0,171,111,111;171,290,160,160|1134:220,160|1334:146,39;146,122|2255:0,155|2155:65,0;65,260;206,260|2422:290,50;290,99|1934:211,-20

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Calculation of the cost of work

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Layout example 8x7 m for calculation	Structural scheme
		1. Wooden beam 150x150mm; 2. slab mineral insulation d=100mm; 3. plastic siding; 4. Ventilation gap d=20-50mm; 7. Floor beams d=150-250mm; 8. Roof made of corrugated board; 9. Foundation made of monolithic concrete slab and prefabricated blocks h=1.8m;

Timber wall with siding panels and interlayer thermal insulation

Timber wall

The high popularity of wooden-log construction among our fellow citizens is predetermined by the traditional character, accessibility and health-improving aura of forest housing construction.

The features of a wooden dwelling have been proven to normalize the amount of humidity, within the range of 45-55%, to saturate the premises with phanticides, and also to have a calming effect on the psyche of people.

It should be noted that recently there has been undoubtedly a growing interest in molded, in particular, in prefabricated glued lumber material, which is characterized, in comparison with non-glued solid wood, by increased (due to adhesive joints) heat-saving and strength abilities, as well as significantly lower shrinkage. . Without a doubt, the minus that slows down the mass use of glued laminated timber is its tangible price, which, nevertheless, is more than justified by its long service life.

In construction warehouses, it is possible to see timber products of sizes 140x140, 100x100, 120x120, 150x150, 180x180, 200x150, 150x100, of which the most used is the size of 150x150 mm, since it has an optimal ratio of structural characteristics and low cost, as well as the laboriousness of installation, expressed by the number inter-row joints.

The standard scheme for assembling a house from a bar:

• First, on the foundation, covered with a waterproof film, along the contours of the walls, a lower beam row is installed, which is connected by a tie-in into a spike at the corners and at the docking points of the internal partitions.
• In order to join the logs together, dowels are used - round oak or birch dowels with a diameter of 3.0-4.0 cm, which are installed effortlessly into holes made through three rows of beams, every 0.3 ÷ 0.4 m. quite often, dowels are replaced big nails(25 ÷ 30 cm), with the indispensable execution of a groove in the upper log, 30 ... 40 mm deep, where the nail is finished, to compensate for the linear compression of the lumber during shrinkage.
• So that in the process of shrinkage wooden house windows and doors are not deformed, door and light openings are framed on vertical sections"casing" - racks-profiles. In this case, a U-shaped spike is sawn out at the ends of the rows of timber, along which the said timber profiles move, due to the corresponding recess. Technological gaps are arranged above windows and doors, filled with fiberglass or felt insulation.
• When erecting walls, log rows are laid with a seam seal (flax, hemp, jute, flax-jute, felt, tow), which after 9-12 months (or when the log water content reaches 12-15%) will have to be caulked again to minimize heat loss through inter-beam joints.
• When choosing interior decoration seasonal deformations of timber-log walls should be taken into account and, when installing inelastic cladding (for example, drywall sheets), avoid direct connections with timber wall, by adding suspended buffer frame structures.

siding cladding

If all-season residence is planned, the log-beam cottage should also be overlaid with thermal insulation. As a rule, from the outside, in a vertical position, are attached wooden logs, with a size of 100x50 mm, with an interval of 400-600 mm, between which a heater is laid (for example, such as: P-175, Ursa, Izomin, P-125, Knauf, Rockwool, PZh-200, Isover, Izorok), after which a hydro is laid -And windproof film(Izospan, Yutavek, Tyvek), fixed with a counter-lattice, 25 ÷ 50 mm thick, along which a decorative false wall is attached (painted lining, DSP panels or plastic siding).

Due to the fact that the vinyl siding profile changes quite a lot linear dimensions during fluctuations temperature regime, then you need to use loose fixing of vinyl records.

Today, plastic siding manufacturers (for example, brands: Nordside, Varitek, Georgia Pacific, Docke, Vytec, Snowbird, Tecos, Ortho, FineBer, Gentek, Mitten, AltaProfile, Holzplast) offer a rich color palette which makes any home look different from the rest.

It is important to consider that PVC siding can retain its attractive appearance. appearance and serve for a long time, only under the condition of punctual execution of the installation instructions.

PVC siding is resistant to chemical, atmospheric, mechanical factors, does not corrode, does not support combustion.

The PVC profile in case of fire only melts, igniting when heated to at least 390 ° C (moreover, the tree is already at 230-260 ° C), quickly extinguishing when the heating source is removed, and the volume of carcinogenic heating products is not more than during smoldering wooden structures.

Basic technological rules for fixing PVC siding:

• When hanging the next siding strip, click it by the locking ledge with the underlying strip and, without pulling, fix it with screws;
• In order to mask the seams, hinge vinyl panels it is better to do it starting from the back wall of the building, moving to the front wall, and each subsequent siding strip will cover the one already installed in the row being performed, by about 2.5 ... 3 cm, for the same purpose, the resulting joints, for adjacent rows, need to be shifted horizontally.
• Mounted siding plates should move easily to the right and left, for this, do not tighten the screws in the mounting slots until they stop.
• In places where external communications are carried out (wires, brackets, cables, pipes), as well as at connection points plastic panel and fittings (H-profile, inner corner, outer corner, architraves, etc.), it is necessary to provide cuttings, about a centimeter, to ensure thermal contractions or expansions of PVC siding.
• In order not to interfere with thermal screeds and stretching and, therefore, not to provoke pitting pvc material, screwing self-tapping screws or nailing nails into the siding profile should be in the center of the finished factory holes.
• Vinyl profiles are fastened from the bottom up, according to the instructions, a special starting profile is first installed.

Slab reinforced concrete foundation with prefabricated strip

The slab-side base is arranged around the perimeter external walls buildings in the form of a solid reinforced concrete slab, on which standard concrete blocks are placed.

The type of foundation under consideration is practiced in low-rise buildings to form the basement of a house, on unstable lands, subject to a low level ground water. In waterlogged areas, side walls the foundation should be made in the form of a continuous reinforced concrete tape, using waterproof coatings: gluing, coating, impregnation.

Along with this, the prefabricated block system of vertical foundation walls, according to the already finished reinforced concrete slab, is optimal for fast construction rates, as well as for the manufacture of the "zero" cycle in the cold period.

Standard execution sequence one slab foundation side parts in the form of a prefabricated reinforced concrete tape:

• First of all, the earth is dug to the design depth.
• Crushed stone, 40/60 size, 150-200 mm thick, is poured onto the resulting sub-base, and carefully compacted.
• Sand-cement pouring is carried out, 50 mm thick.
• A waterproof film is spread with an extension along the edges of 180-200 cm, for lateral waterproofing of the sidewalls of the foundation base.
• To protect the moisture-proof layer from possible ruptures during welding of the reinforcing structure, a second layer of cement mortar, 40 mm thick, along the perimeter of which formwork is placed along the height of the foundation slab.
• The formed slab is reinforced with two rows of welded iron rods of diameter Ø14 type AII with a step of 20x20 cm.
• For the slab foundation, only ready-made concrete, grade M300, class B22.5, transported by a concrete mixer, is allowed.
• The duration of concrete hardening (when it is already permissible to install a perimeter of FBS blocks) is at least 4 weeks in warm weather.
• The installation of wall blocks is carried out relative to the axial lines, along two mutually perpendicular walls, controlling the alignment by theodolite. Prefabricated blocks are sent by a truck crane to the "bed" of the mortar.
• Installation is more correct to start with laying beacon blocks at the intersections of the axes and in the corners of the building. It is worth proceeding with the arrangement of linear blocks only after controlling the position of the landmark blocks along the horizon and level.
• On the last row of FBS blocks, in plank formwork, a reinforcement-reinforced mortar screed is produced, 250 mm high.

Beam-wood floor

Floors from wooden beams traditionally popular in cottage construction, due to the convenience and cost-effectiveness of their manufacture.

Under the logs, wood is traditionally used conifers(for example: spruces, larches, pines), with a moisture content of not more than 14%. It is known that the most durable beam is a bar with an aspect ratio of seven to five (for example, 0.14x0.10 m).

When calculating lumber for flooring, it is necessary to be guided by special tables that take into account the dependence of the beam structure parameters on the span size and loading; or you can start from the simplified rule that the width of the beam should be about 0.042 of the width of the room, and the thickness should be 5 ÷ 10 cm, with a laying step of beam boards of 50 - 100 cm and a load of 150 kgf / m².

With a shortage of a lag of sufficient size, it is permissible to use bolted boards, while leaving the overall size unchanged.

Characteristic moments of the installation of a beam-beam ceiling:

• in wooden log cabins, the edges of the beam beams are hemmed in the shape of a funnel, and then they are driven into the finished opening of the upper crown to the entire depth of the wall.
• The lag is set in the following sequence: first, the first and last, and then, with bubble level control, all the remaining ones. Beams should be led onto the wall structure by at least 15-20 cm.
• In order to avoid possible rot damage that can occur during steam diffusion in the masonry niche, the ends of the beam boards are sawn off at an angle of about 60 °, coated with an antiseptic solution (Biosept, KSD, Teknos, Senezh, Pinotex, Cofadex, Tikkurila, Biofa, Aquatex, Holzplast , Tex, Kartocide, Dulux) and cover with roofing material, keeping the end open.
• Beam bars are set aside at least 5 cm from the wall, and the distance between the bars and the smoke channel should be at least 40 cm.
• Usually, in brick structures, the edges of the beams are located in masonry openings in which moisture condenses, for this reason, between the end parts of the beams and the masonry, they leave space for ventilation, and with a significant depth of the groove, another layer of thermal insulation is installed.

The interfloor ceiling is not insulated, the basement ceiling is thermally insulated with the installation of a vapor barrier membrane on top of the thermal protection, and the ceiling of the upper level is thermally insulated with a vapor barrier layer underneath the insulation.

Since the task of constructive reliability of wood-beam interlevel ceilings is basically removed by an obvious increase in the cross section of the lag and their number, then with fire resistance and noise insulation everything does not look so clear.

One of the options for improving the soundproofing and fire-retardant parameters of wood-beam interfloor ceilings consists of the following items:

• From the bottom of the bearing logs, at an angle of 90 degrees, with the help of spring brackets, after 0.30-0.40 m, metal profiles are fixed - a crate, on which gypsum fiber boards are suspended from below.
• On top of the fabricated lattice structure, a synthetic film is laid and fixed with a stapler to the beams, on which mineral fiber slab insulation is tightly laid out, for example: Isover, Isorok, Knauf, Ursa, Izomin, Rockwool, with a layer of 5 centimeters, with a rise to the vertical surfaces of the floor beams.
• In the rooms of the upper level, chipboard sheets (16 ÷ 25 mm) are screwed onto the beams with self-tapping screws, after that, a high-density basalt fiber sound insulator (2.5 ... 3.0 cm), and again, floor preparation plywood slabs are laid.

Profiled roof

The corrugated material is sheets of trapezoidal molded metal, painted with a zinc layer, which are marked with symbols such as B-45, HC44, HC35, MP-35, H57, H44, H60, HC18, C-21, where the numbers indicate the size of the profile section.

The main benefits of a corrugated roof, in comparison with metal tiles, are the minimum costs and speed of execution.

To decorate the roof, corrugated board with a corrugation amplitude of 2 cm is used to ensure the required strength and economical use of the sheathing material. The working angle to the roof horizon is considered to be at least 1:7.

The roof is installed on load-bearing structure, folded from crate preparation and truss elements.

During the construction of private buildings, a 2.3-span structure with inclined roof trusses and intermediate supporting walls is usually designed.

Support ends roof beams descend on the Mauerlat with a section of 10x10-15x15 cm; the interval between the rafters is usually made about 600-900 mm with a section of the rafters 50x150-100x150 mm.

The standard procedure for installing sheets of profiled metal:

• A roof using profiled steel corrugated sheets, like every other roofing base made of rolled steel, when arranging a warm attic space, provides for the use of an under-roofing waterproofing membrane, such as: Izospan, Stroizol SD130, Tyvek, Yutavek 115.135, TechnoNIKOL, which covers the inter-rafter heat-insulating material from running off condensate water.
• The waterproof membrane is installed horizontally, from bottom to top, with an inter-tier overlap of 10 ÷ 15 cm and a sag between rafter legs about 20 mm, with further gluing of the seam line with adhesive tape.
• To remove unnecessary inter-tier joints, the long side of the profiled sheet is chosen to be similar to the transverse size of the roof slope, plus 20 ... 30 centimeters, taking into account the overhang.
• The interval between the bars of the crate is determined by the slope roof slope and thickness of the profile relief: if the profile grade is S-8-S-25, and the slope is steeper than 15 °, then the gap between the purlins is 400 mm, and for the nomenclature NS-35÷NS-44 - about 0.7÷1.0 m .
• In order to avoid lifting the corrugated sheets during gusts of wind, their fastening should be carried out from the extremely lower corner of the end section of the roof, opposite to the prevailing direction of the wind flow.
• The corrugated sheets are fixed to the boards of the lathing with galvanized self-tapping screws, 28 ... 40, Ø 4.8 mm long, with sealing washers, into the deflection of the wave, and the ridge corners, on the contrary, into the crest of the wave. On the eaves fixation goes on all lower zones profile relief, and the consumption of screws is considered 6÷8 units. per m2 of profiled material.
• The longitudinal overlap of corrugated sheets should be performed in one wave, but with a roof slope of less than 12 degrees - in two corrugated waves.

The calculation of the timber for the house is necessary in order to determine the required amount of lumber for the construction of the truss system, the implementation of formwork and the overlapping of the floors of the construction site. Its correct calculation is especially important when building cottages from glued or sawn timber.

How to calculate the amount of timber per house?

In order to properly navigate the needs of lumber, it is necessary to make a building project indicating the exact dimensions on which the length of the timber depends. Regarding its thickness, it is important to consider the following factors:

• for a private house or a bath, a beam with a section of 200x200 mm is suitable;
• for seasonal construction, it is possible to use wood with parameters of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm.

Based on the fact that the cost of wood building material is indicated in cubic meters, to calculate the exact amount pieces of logs in 1 cubic meter, you need to make a simple calculation:

1m3/Z/W/L, where

• Z is the width of the board;
• W is the thickness of the board;
• L is the length of the board.

The design of the house provides for the calculation of the required volume of ceiling and floor beams, the determination of lumber for the truss system, external walls, gables, internal partitions.

Often, ceiling and floor beams with a section of 100x150 mm are used in construction with a step of 0.7 to 1 meter. In order to determine their number, you must use the formula:

• Ld is the length of the house;
• Ls is the length of the applied step.

Taking into account the fact that lumber is sold by the supplier in cubic meters, the calculation of the cubature of a bar involves multiplying its cross-sectional area and linear length.

The calculation of the beam for external walls and load-bearing partitions provides for the determination of the area and thickness of the walls. Multiplying these parameters will give the total volume of timber required for the construction of these structural elements.

Calculator for calculating the cubature of timber

For an accurate calculation of the cubature of lumber on truss system require the use of special arithmetic algorithms. The beam calculation calculator will greatly simplify the task. The correct determination of the required building material guarantees the reliability of the construction of the structure of the building and saves financial costs.

The program will allow you to calculate the beam online by entering the initial data. By changing the given parameters, you can compare several projects and choose the most profitable one from a financial point of view. By processing the individual parameters of the house project, the calculator will make the most accurate calculation, eliminating the risk of overpaying for extra material. It is important to consider the possible percentage of rejects, which is about 5% of the total volume of lumber.