How to calculate the number of tiles for a bathroom. How to calculate the need for tiles when renovating a bathroom

Let me start by saying that you can use a bathroom tile calculator, but I’ll warn you right away - this will give you the most inaccurate result. And all I can say is that such programs are not able to take into account the nuances.

However, making such calculations yourself is easy and simple, and they will be the most accurate, down to one unit of tile (although a couple of extra pieces will still be needed in reserve). I suggest you study a short course of study, or rather, an understanding of the very principle of calculations.

Calculation of tiles according to room size

What to consider

In a room with the same square footage you may need different quantities material. Therefore, the question of how to calculate the number of tiles in the bathroom also depends on the number and location of plumbing units and pipelines.

There are several nuances that you should pay attention to, since it is possible to calculate exactly how many tiles you need for a bathroom only by taking them into account. First of all, to understand how to calculate the bathroom area for tiles, you need to accurately determine the installation of plumbing fixtures and the size of the tiles themselves.

Let's first understand this:

• The very first thing you need to consider is how the tiles will look in those places that are most visible. As a rule, they are located under the ceiling (top row), as well as above the plumbing units, for example, above the bathtub;
• but the catch here is that you can set the height of the same bath arbitrarily, but changing the height of the ceiling is much more difficult. Therefore, the main focus should be on the ceiling level;
• under the ceiling, even if they are suspended, it is advisable to have a whole, uncut row. This means that the calculation of the number of pieces vertically should come from there;

• This means we measure the number of tiles from the flow to the first row (usually 8 pieces of 200×300 mm tiles), and leave the bottom row for later;
• but it also happens when you can fit into a whole number of tiles, then you can also make an uncut row above the bathroom, as shown in the bottom photo;

• on the walls where the bathroom will be pressed, calculation tiles You shouldn’t do it for the bathroom - you can leave an empty space there, since no one needs tiling in an invisible place;
• the same can be said about the tiles on the floor - there is no need for tiles under the bathroom and no instructions require installing them there. The bath sits perfectly on the screed, especially since it’s easier to adjust its height this way ;
• some also save tiles under the cabinets, but I don’t recommend doing this, the place is too “slippery” - after all, the doors open and everything is visible there;
• Another point in the question of how to calculate tiles more economically is a shower stall or box, although I don’t quite understand the point of installing a box in a tiled room - this is simply absurd or a thoughtless waste of money;
• There is no need for tiles under the pallet, but this depends on the owner’s wishes (the area is small), but why put a box where you still need to put tiles on the walls, since they will be noticeable?! I repeat once again - this is absurd and it’s unlikely that anyone will have any arguments to convince me otherwise;

• Another point on how to calculate the consumption of tiles is the presence or absence of it on, but there usually the calculation is pure, without any resets;
• and finally, these are boxes that can be in any bathroom, although again I believe that they a large number of- this is the negligence of the plumber. They are needed only where vertical or horizontal pipe impossible to hide in a groove.

Calculation examples

As they say in Odessa: “What will I get from this?” In our case, it means how to correctly calculate the tiles for a certain layout of plumbing units? Let's start with the total area.

Let's imagine that our area is 3.0x2.5 m - this, of course, a private house, but for the example there is no difference. We will take the height of the walls to the rough ceiling to be 2.6 m, therefore, the entire room will be 3.0 x 2.5 x 2.6 m. The cubic capacity will be of little interest to us, since the tiles should be counted by area.

Again, let's move on to abstract images and by default take a tile with a size of 200x300 mm, since it is used most often. Our spacer crosses will be 3 mm thick (also the most popular).

I will say right away that the thickness of the seam should not be taken into account - this, of course, also applies to determining the quantity, but even the most experienced tiler can experience force majeure. Any of the tiles may fall and break, or simply burst during cutting.

Then one row will require exactly 3000/200=15 pieces. But here, for symmetry, you will need the width of the seam. This means that between fifteen pieces there will be 13 seams of 3 mm each, in total, 13 * 3 = 39 mm (we count 40 mm). This means that the outer tiles will need to be trimmed by 2-3 cm each, leaving 180 mm, although their number will remain the same - 15 pieces.

Next we move on to the vertical - everything is calculated in the same way. And if we have a room height of 260 cm (2600 mm), then we will need 2600/300 = 8.6 pieces for this. That is, the first row will be a little more than half. A little wrong!

The price of the material will decrease if we make the correct calculation:

1. first, we have seams;
2. and, secondly, it is not necessary to place the tiles close to the ceiling, because there will still be floor tiles.

Therefore, the number of copies can be reduced to 8.5 pieces, then the bottom row will go one after two. This means that below you will need not 15, but only 8 pieces!

Now, let's identify areas that can be skipped, especially if they are expensive tiles, such as 3d. Since it is not needed under the bathroom, then its quantity can be calculated from the total square footage. For example, let’s take a bathtub with dimensions in length/width/height of 1700x700x570 mm (this is a regular standard bathroom).

So, if we have a height of 570 mm, it means that the row of tiles above the bathroom will begin (third row 150+300=450 mm) from 570-450= 220 mm, that is, practically from the whole row.

We do the same with the end and side width - we calculate the absence of tiles in this segment. If you want to tile the bathtub, and not install a plastic screen there, then you shouldn’t make such calculations - everything will remain in its place.

A thoughtful approach to the preparatory period during repairs will eliminate the repeated hassle of purchasing building materials and eliminate the formation of a large unused, but paid, balance. And for this it is important to know how to calculate the tiles for the bathroom correctly.

To calculate the number of bathroom tiles as accurately as possible, you need to measure the room, know and decide on the type of installation.

To begin with, the required measurements are taken using a tape measure. If the bathroom has square shape, then it is enough to find out the dimensions of only one wall, or two if it is rectangular.

Area of ​​a rectangular parallelepiped: S = 2 (A x B + A x C + B x C).

Perimeter: P = 2 (A + B).

Legend:

• S – area, m?;
• P – perimeter, m;
• A – length of the room;
• B – width;
• C – height.

Existing niches and protrusions must also be fully measured. Then the total working area is the sum of the areas of all surfaces. Then the area of ​​the doorway and areas that are not planned to be lined are subtracted from the result.

Wanting to save money, sometimes they don’t put tiles under the bathroom. This space can be covered with a special screen, and the height to the desired level is measured starting from the side of the bath.

Different installation options differ significantly in the required number of tiles. You can lay it in different ways:

• standard;
• with friezes, borders (wide, narrow or alternating them);
• diagonal;
• in a checkerboard pattern.

With the last two, you will have to trim all the tiled parts adjacent to the corners in order to lay them out neatly, which causes the consumption to increase significantly. In addition to the installation method, you need to decide what color scheme will be used, whether adjustment to the pattern will be needed, whether only tiles will be used or the design includes any decorative details.

Should be taken into account. It is advisable to start the first rows at a certain distance from the edge in order to make possible unevenness of the walls less noticeable.

Modern manufacturers produce facing materials of the most different shapes and sizes, therefore, having made a choice, you must first measure one plate and calculate its area. Initially, the planned consumption is calculated in square meters, and then specified individually.

You cannot make a purchase back to back, since it is necessary to provide a reserve for trimming, as well as in case of damage or defects, for the repair of any area damaged during operation. Based on this, the calculated amount facing material it is worth increasing by 5% if the selected tile small size or there is a simple drawing. The larger the tile, the larger the cutting residue. Or if the pattern is not simple, but a composite of several tiles, you need to add 10%.

Examples of calculations for walls depending on the type of installation

For example, let's take a room with dimensions: A = 1.7 m, B = 1.5 m, C = 2.7 m, doorway 2 m x 0.7 m, tiles 20 x 30.

Regular or standard

The rows are laid out parallel to the floor. The result will be more accurate if you calculate it separately for each wall surface:

• 270 cm (C) : 30 cm (tile height) = 9 elements in a row in height;
• 150 cm (H) : 20 cm (product width) = 7.5 = 8 pieces (after rounding) in width;
• 9 x 8 = 72 units per wall.

We repeat the steps for a wall whose length is 170 cm, the result is 81. We remove the door size: 200 cm (door opening height): 30 cm = 6.7 = 6 pieces in height (after rounding down):

• 70 cm (door width): 20 cm = 3.5 rounded = 3 pieces in width;
• 6 x 3 = 18 pieces;
• Total: 2 (81 + 72) – 18 + 10% = 316.8 317 pieces will be required.

When the walls near which the bathtub is installed are completely tiled, the amount of tiles can be easily calculated using the proposed method. If it is planned not to make cladding around it, in this case the calculation is made as for a wall with a door.

We choose wall tiles 30 x 20, borders 10 x 20, pencil borders 1.5 x 20.

Let's calculate how many borders and pencils are needed: the perimeter is divided by the length of the element, not forgetting to reduce it by the width of the door. The mathematical calculation looks like this: 2 (1.5 + 1.7) – 0.7 / 0.20 = 28.5 rounded up = 29 curbs. This amounts to 0.58 m?.

Usually a pencil is placed on both sides of the border, which means that you will need twice as much of it, which means 58 pieces and 0.174 m².

From the total area of ​​the walls without a door, we subtract the area of ​​borders and pencils 15.88 - (0.58 + 0.174) = 15.126 m?. S of one tile: 0.3 m * 0.2 m = 0.06 m?.

Combined

The bottom is dark tiles, the top is light 20 x 30 and the horizontal frieze is 8 x 20. In this case, we divide three zones: the border is 0.08 m, let the height of the dark “bottom” be 1 m, then the light “top” is 1.62 .

Laying tiles with decorative borders and pencils

Find the number of dark tiles: bottom area without door 2 (1.5 + 1.7)*1 – 0.7*1=5.7 m?. Area of ​​one tile: 0.2*0.3 = 0.06 m². Divide the values ​​and add 10%: 5.7:0.06 * 10% = 104.5, round to 104.

We calculate how many light tiles are needed: area of ​​the light strip 2 (1.5+1.7)*1.62 – 0.7*1= 9.668 m?. The area of ​​one tile is already known: 0.06 m2, divide them: 9.668: 0.06 = 161.13 (pieces) plus 10% = 177.24 or 177 pieces.

How much frieze: 2 (1.5+1.7) – 0.7: 0.2 = 28.5 with 10% = 31 pieces.

You will need 104 units of dark tile, 177 units of light tile and 31 units of frieze.

If you plan to place decorative panels or inserts sold individually, the quantity of the main tile is reduced accordingly.

Example calculation for a floor depending on the type of installation

Calculations are carried out similarly to the previous ones - the area of ​​the floor and the element is calculated, the amount required to cover a given area is found:

• Floor dimensions – 150 cm x 170 cm;
• Tile – 33x33 cm.

Options for laying tiles on the floor

Parallel, solid color

The calculation for the floor is similar to the calculation for walls with the same installation.

Find the number of tiles in 1 row with a width of 150: 33 = 4.54, round to the nearest whole number - 5 pieces.

How many rows are there in length: 170: 33 cm = 5.15, rounded to 6.

5 x 6 = 30 in reserve 2-3 = 33 ceramic tiles.

If the calculation were made only on the floor area: 1.70 m x 1.50 m = 2.55 sq. m, divided by S of one tile 0.33 m x 0.33 m = 0.11 sq. m, rounding up 24 tiles, then 9 tiles would not be enough. The first method, piece by piece, is more correct; it takes into account the inevitable generation of waste when cutting plates.

This method is suitable when using single-color tiles. If a combination of several colors is used, then the quantity of each type must be counted separately.

Diagonal or diamond

The tiles are laid at 45 degrees. Since when diagonal laying The tiles are trimmed at the beginning and end of the rows; the percentage of margin should be made not 10, but 15. The floor area is divided by the area of ​​the tiles. IN in this example this is 56 pieces, with a 15 percent reserve (8.4) this will be 64 pieces. Large quantity It is not recommended to purchase, since the cut off parts are also used in work.

How much glue is needed

Glue costs depend on: the evenness of the wall surface, their condition, and the thickness of the adhesive layer. If the surface is without flaws, then less glue will be needed. Besides, great importance The thickness of the layer itself directly depends on the height of the spatula teeth, which is selected based on the dimensions of the selected tile: for example, for a size of 20 x 20 you need a spatula of 6 x 6 mm, for 30 x 30 a spatula of 8 x 8 is required.

Sometimes, it is difficult for non-professionals to choose the correct tooth size. The angle of inclination of the tool when applying glue is also taken into account. By making the slope closer to 90, a thick layer is created; by pressing it at 45 or less, it decreases. The following table shows the dependence of the thickness of the adhesive layer for all sizes of tiles on the teeth and inclination of the trowel. If you need to find out exactly, we offer you more detailed information.

Based on the instructions for use on the packaging, you can calculate how much glue of the selected brand is used per 1 sq. m. But this information is very approximate. Basically, adhesives for facing work are divided into three categories: cement-based, dispersion and epoxy. It would be incorrect to compare consumption data between them, since they differ fundamentally not only in composition. Tile adhesives are available in powder or liquid form, ready to use, or as a set of components that you need to mix yourself. Average volume any glue mixture based on cement per 1 sq. m of already prepared plastered or plasterboard wall with a glue application thickness of 10 mm is 17-18 kg. Therefore, with 2 mm of glue (6 x 6 spatula), the consumption is: 2 mm x 17 kg / 10 mm = 1.7 kg per 1 sq. m. For a bathroom floor 1.5 by 1.7 m, 1.5 x will be consumed 1.7 x 1.7 = 4.33 kg.

Table of approximate consumption of dry tile adhesive of the “Ceresit” type.

Video

Drawing of one wall

The calculator calculates the number of tiles not by area, as is done on most sites, but by the number of tiles by the height and width of the room. In this case, the number of tiles is first rounded to a larger whole number, and only then the total number of tiles is calculated by multiplying the number of whole tiles in width by the number of whole tiles in height. The number of tiles is calculated in the same way, taking into account voids. This approach takes into account the amount of tile waste when the position of the void changes. Any tiler knows that when the door in the room is adjacent to the wall, there will be less waste. But most similar calculators that calculate the number of tiles by area do not take this feature into account.

X – wall width

Xd – width to void

X1 – void width

Xp – width after void

Y – wall height

Yd – height to void

Y1 – void height

Yp – height after void

FY – tile height

EX – tile width

Enter all the dimensions one by one in the appropriate places on the form. Dimensions must be given in mm. If the wall is completely covered with tiles, that is, there are no doors, windows or voids on the wall, then in the form where the dimensions “to void”, “Void Width”, “Void Height” are indicated, you need to enter zeros.

If there are voids on the wall (where the tiles do not stick), you need to carefully measure the distances to the void in height, width and the dimensions of the void itself. The calculator automatically calculates the size above the void in height and behind the void in width.

If the dimensions are entered incorrectly, there will be a warning “Unfittable”.

The calculator is designed to lay out tiles from bottom to top, left to right. This means that the cut tile (if any) is located at the top of the wall and to the right when looking at the wall. If you need the layout of the tiles from right to left, this can be taken into account by changing the dimensions to an empty width and when laying out the tiles, consider the pattern in a mirror. Specify the size of the seam between the tiles; the amount of cut tiles depends on it and, accordingly, an increase in the amount of waste is possible. If the wall size for cladding is small, the size of the joint affects only the amount of tile waste; if the wall size is 10 or more tiles, the size of the joint can also affect the number of tiles that need to be purchased. When laying tiles, do not cut the entire tile at once (for example, if there is a tile that needs to be cut up to the void height, then see the calculation; you can use parts of already cut tiles). This way, tile waste will be minimal. Similarly for the last row in height and width of the wall. If the remainder of the cut tile exceeds the size of the tile that needs to be glued, then it is better to cut it off from the already cut one.

The Tiler Skill Qualification indicator takes into account the skill of the tiler. It is known that most waste occurs when cutting tiles. Therefore, this calculator calculates the number of cut tiles and the percentage of defects during cutting, depending on qualifications.

This parameter is subjective. It indicates that 10% of all cut tiles will be damaged if the tiler is qualified by the number “1”. Accordingly, 20% of the cut tiles are damaged when the number “2” is entered. And so on. This parameter can be specified from your own experience, if you know the tiler well, or you can ask the tiler himself how many tiles can be damaged when cutting.

Taking into account the tiler's qualifications ensures the possibility of a one-time purchase of everything required quantity tiles There are situations when the number of tiles is incorrectly calculated and you need to buy more, but the tiles from the same batch have already run out. But similar tiles from a new batch may differ in tone and this will be an unpleasant surprise.

After entering all required sizes In the form, you must click the “Add” button. The name of the tile, calculations of the number of tiles and the price are recorded in the specification. When you complete the calculation for all walls with the same tiles, click the “Total” button. A corresponding line will appear in the specification with the calculation of the total number of tiles and its total cost. Make sure that only the same type of tile is included in the specification, otherwise you will get an error. If you accidentally added a tile of a different type, you can remove it before clicking on the “Total” button. If necessary, you can delete the entire BOM table.

In a situation where there is both a void for a bathtub and a window on the wall, that is, several voids, it is better to divide the wall into two or three, depending on the number of voids. The conditional dividing line should be made in the place where the tiles are laid multiple times, taking into account the seam. For example, with a tile height of 300 mm, the section height can be made at a height of 900 mm. plus the thickness of two seams. Then, in the specification, these parts of the wall will be summed up automatically.

Getting started finishing works in the bathroom, you first need to calculate and purchase the required amount of material. It is advisable to buy the entire volume at once, since the next batch may differ in tone, so calculations must be made very accurately. In this case, tiles are used to finish the walls and floor. Manufacturers offer material various shapes and size. The number of tiles needed for the bathroom will largely depend on which collection is preferred. There are several calculation methods that we will introduce you to today.

Preparatory stage

Before you begin the calculation, you need to carefully measure the bathroom using a tape measure or rangefinder. The following parameters are required for the calculation:

• Wall height.
• Width of walls.

If the walls have the correct shape, it will be enough to take two or three measurements. If there are niches or various protruding elements, you will need to measure their parameters too and clarify the dimensions of the door.

Even if at first glance the walls seem perfectly smooth: square or rectangular, be sure to take several control measurements. This will avoid errors in calculations.

Required quantity of floor tiles

First way

Calculations begin with determining the floor area. To do this, its length is multiplied by its width. Then the area of ​​one tile is calculated in the same way. After this, the first value is divided by the second, and the resulting result is rounded up. The result is an approximate value, which experts recommend increasing by 5%, multiplying by a correction factor of 1.05. The resulting value is again rounded to the nearest whole number.

As an example, consider a bathroom that has a ceiling of 2.65 m, walls of 1.8 m and 1.7 m and a door 0.6 m wide. In this case, if the floor tiles are 33 cm by 33 cm, you will need: ((1 .8*1.7)/(0.33*0.33))=28.1 pieces; 29*1.05"31 tiles.

Second way

We begin calculating the number of tiles for the bathroom by determining the number of tiles that will need to be laid in length and width. To do this, divide the length and width of the room by the length and width of the tiles, respectively. We multiply the resulting values ​​by each other, round to the nearest whole number and also increase by 5%.

Based on the above example, we obtain the following sequence of calculations:

1. 1.8/0.33=5.5 pcs.;
2. 1.7/0.33=5.2 pcs.;
3. 5.5*5.2=28.6 pcs.;
4. round the value obtained in step 3 to 29;
5. 29*1.05=30.45 pcs., i.e. To finish the floor (after rounding up) you need to purchase 31 tiles.

If one of the calculation methods results in a larger value, you should choose it. However, it is worth noting that sales consultants prefer to use the first option.

Required quantity of wall tiles

First way

To determine how many bathroom tiles are needed for wall cladding, we calculate the perimeter of the room. To do this, we sum up the lengths of all its walls. If we're talking about For a standard bathroom, just add the length and width and multiply by 2. In our example: (1.8+1.7)*2=7 m.

Based on the perimeter, the required number of friezes is calculated. To do this, the width of the door is subtracted from the perimeter of the bathroom. The resulting value is divided by the length of the frieze or border, respectively.

If you wish, you can save money by not covering the part of the wall located under the bathtub. In this case, it will be necessary to subtract the area pertaining to this area from the general calculations.

So, for example, assuming that the dark tiles will be laid to a height of 1 m, we find that the height of the light top will be equal to: 2.7 m -1 m – 0.08 m (frieze height) = 1.62 m. Now you can calculate the required number of tiles. For this:

• We calculate the area that light and dark tiles will occupy.
• We divide the resulting values ​​by the area of ​​one tile.
• Round to the nearest integer value.
• We increase by 5%.
• Round to the nearest whole value.

In our example we will need:

• Dark tiles: (7-0.6)*1/(0.2*0.4)=52.5 pcsÞ53 pcs * 1.05=55.56Þ56 pcs;
• Light tiles: (7-0.6)*1.62/(0.2*0.4)=55.05 pcsÞ56 pcs * 1.05=90.3Þ91 pcs.

If decorative inserts are planned, then the number of light or dark tiles should be reduced by the amount of decor purchased

Second way

In this case, we lay out the layout of each wall to understand how many tiles can be placed in horizontal and vertical rows. In this case, the tiles that need to be cut are taken into account as whole. We increase the resulting value by 5% to insure ourselves in case of marriage or battle. We calculate the required number of dark, light tiles and borders and go shopping.

Thus, knowing the above methods, everyone can independently calculate how many tiles are needed for a bathroom. You just need to take the correct measurements, decide on the type of tile, as well as how it will be placed on the wall and floor.

There are several such methods, each good in its own way. But, from the point of view of calculation and the process itself, the simplest is invariably direct masonry.

Direct laying of tiles

Standard, familiar masonry, this method can be recommended for beginners.

Advice! If the ceiling in the room is low, then you should choose high rectangular tiles and lay them using the direct laying method. This will visually “raise” the walls.

For high-quality installation diagonally you will have to work hard. But the result is worth it. It should be noted that diagonal masonry visually hides the curvature of the floors.

Important! Laying tiles diagonally requires additional material consumption, since you will have to cut a lot of tiles, moving from the corners in the center of the room. But don’t rush to throw away the leftovers, in case they come in handy in another corner of the room.

Laying tiles in a checkerboard pattern

This option is usually used when they want to put ceramic tiles several colors. The resulting bathrooms are very interesting from a design point of view, worth a try.

Laying tiles with offset

This type of masonry involves shifting each subsequent row by the same distance. This option looks more elegant and you can always experiment with various inserts, for example, use small square tiles, as was done in the photo.

How to calculate bathroom tiles

So, to avoid unwanted losses, we need to take measurements of the walls and floor.

On a piece of paper, write down measurements for all the walls of the room, subtracting windows and doors. You can safely go to the store to choose the tiles you need. Measure the tiles and write down the dimensions. Now we can calculate how many tiles we need.

There are two ways to calculate - separately by length and width or by area.

Counting the number of tiles (method 1)

To calculate the required number of tiles, first, we need to take measurements of the length and width of the surface.

Now we divide the height of the wall by the height of the tile. On at this stage You should already decide how you lay the tiles if they are rectangular in shape - horizontally or vertically. If you are laying tiles on the floor, measure the length of the floor and the length of the tiles accordingly.

For example, the wall height is 2.7 m, the tile height is 0.3 m.

2.7 / 0.3 = 9 tiles

That is, 9 tiles fit in a row in height.

2.25 / 0.2 = 11.25 tiles

When the number is not an integer, we always round up, in our case it’s up to 12. We get the number of tiles by width.

9 * 12 = 108 tiles

But this is not the final number yet, since 5% of the reserve should be added to the resulting quantity:

108 * 1.05 = 113.4 tiles

We round and thus we get 114 tiles for this surface.

We also do similar calculations for the remaining walls, add up the results and have the total number of tiles per room.

We take into account the doorway and window frame

In order to obtain the number of tiles required for the wall in which the door or window is installed, we need to subtract the number of tiles that correspond to the dimensions of the door or window opening from the number of tiles on the opposite wall.

Divide the height of the opening by the height of the tile:

2 / 0.3 = 6.7 tiles

round down - 6 pcs. in height. We round down in order to subtract a smaller number of tiles and you have a reserve left.

0.8 / 0.2 = 4 tiles

We multiply the results obtained and get 24 pieces, which we subtract from the total number of wall tiles. In a similar way, we can calculate the number of tiles for a wall with a window.

We calculate by area (2nd method)

We measure the area of ​​the floor (wall) by multiplying the length (height) by the width:

0.33 * 0.33 = 0.1089 square meters

After this, we divide the floor area by the tile area:

4.5 / 0.1089 = 41.32 tiles

As you can see we get approximate quantity tiles, so we round up, we have up to 42 tiles.

But don't forget to add 5% for the reserve.

42 * 1.05 = 44.1 tiles

We round up in this way, for laying tiles on the floor we get 45 tiles.

Advice! Sales consultants prefer to calculate using the second method - by area.