How to attach an extension to a door frame. How to attach the accessory to the box

Quite often, when installing a door frame, there is an urgent need to cover the remaining part of the slope with something. Often, for frontal tasks, “extras” are used, which are usually purchased together with door leaves, as well as platbands. Still, in the vast majority of these additional elements need to be adjusted, because the addition must be attached to the box as tightly as possible, and strictly according to the dimensions of the visible part of the slope.

Types of door frames

There are two types of door frames to which extensions are often attached - with and without a groove.

In the first option, the additional element must be inserted into the groove of the box with its long side, and the second side must be unattached. In the second case, the extension will need to be attached to the slope, without fixing it directly to door frame.

Classification of extras

Extensions are nothing more than planks made of laminated MDF. The coloring of the elements in question often matches the color of the door frame itself, as well as the trim. However, if you want, you can get accessories of a different color, if in this situation your room looks more stylish.

We also note that the extensions cover the slopes only from three sides, namely - from above, to the right and to the left. Considering this fact, it is highly desirable that the upper extension be longer than the span of the door, and that the standing ones rest against it at an angle of 90 degrees.

The different widths of the extensions make it possible to select them for slopes of essentially any possible width. The most important thing is that the additional element is not already necessary. Often a situation arises when it is not possible to choose the necessary accessory that would be ideal. In such a situation, you can simply trim it. However, it is not recommended to do this yourself - it would be better to contact a good furniture maker. There you also need to order a sticker for the edge tape for one or two ends of the trim.

Installation of extensions with a groove

First, let's look at how to attach the extensions to the door if the door frame has a special groove:

• First you need to install and secure the door frame in the opening. You can even hang the door - this will not affect the work with the extensions.
• Then you need to cut the extensions to the required length.
• Then you need to measure the distance from the outer edge of the wall to the door frame. This must be done in at least three places. If it happens that the distances do not converge, then the extension will need to be trimmed by a specialist. You need to glue the edge tape to one of the good tors to which you are going to attach the platband.
• Now you can insert the extensions directly into the grooves of the door frame. This should be done in the following sequence: first insert the top horizontal one, and then you can insert the side vertical ones. The extensions must be placed strictly at right angles to the surface of the door frame.
• After this, make sure that they are horizontal and vertical.
• Now you need to stick it in 4-5 places around the perimeter of the extension masking tape. Moreover, do this in such a way that it can be used to fix the accessory in the desired position.
• After this, the gap between the wall and the extension should be filled polyurethane foam.
• When the foam hardens, you can cut off any excess foam that appears.
• Finally, attach the trim.

Installation of extensions without a groove

After installing the door into the doorway, you will need to measure the remaining uncovered part of the wall, that is, the slopes. If the extensions need to be trimmed, then again, you will have to go to a furniture workshop.

In the case where the slopes have not yet been plastered, the installation of the extension should be done as follows:

• It is necessary to get a wooden plank (a small beam will do) and attach it to the slopes so that it would be possible to attach the extension to this plank on top.
• Make sure that the vertical and horizontal extensions and the 90-degree angle between it and the surface of the door frame are strictly observed.

If the slopes are smooth and plastered, then you do not need to resort to using a wooden plank. However, this is the case if there is no need to leave space between the extension and the wall.

Installation of the top panel

• First you need to attach the extension to the bar
• Then fill the voids between the wall and the ceiling with polyurethane foam
• Remove any remaining foam
• Secure the trims.

Why is it better to use extras?

As you may have already noticed, the technology for installing extensions makes it possible to bypass such a tedious process of plastering slopes. If you choose the right additional element, it can easily make the slope perfectly smooth and beautiful.

We also note that if you cannot purchase factory-made additions, you can make them yourself from laminite or MDF panels.

Video

Why are extras needed and what are they? Before answering this question, we need to remember a little, and young people need to study history. As it was before? Each production plant building materials strictly complied with the current state standards for its products. The sizes of bricks, blocks, panel slabs, etc. were regulated. d. Construction organizations had standards for the thickness of plaster. This allowed woodworking enterprises to produce woodwork (windows and doors) with standard door frame sizes. After installing them in the openings, no additional adjustment with additional trims for the platbands was required.

Today everything is different. The vast majority of enterprises are not guided by state standards, and their own technical specifications. This has led to the fact that the same brick or block from different manufacturers can have various sizes. Now no one can confidently determine the thickness of the walls, make several standard sizes door and window frames are not possible. The solution was found simple and effective. The box is made with the minimum permissible width, which guarantees its physical strength, and the missing width, depending on the thickness of the walls, is gained by installing extensions.

Due to the fact that most modern door frames are made of MDF in order to reduce costs, the same material is also used during the manufacture of extensions. There are, however, door frames and trims made of natural wood, but they are rare and cost much more. Principles for installing wooden and MDF dobor are no different.

Extensions are ordinary boards made of MDF, have a width from 100 mm to 200 mm, are produced by door manufacturers, and have the same color and texture as the doors. By structural device can be ordinary (simple) and adjustable. Simple extensions rest against an L-shaped cutout in the sides of the box; adjustable ones with the box have a tongue/groove connection. This allows you to accurately adjust the protrusion after taking the preliminary dimensions and preparing the extensions. In addition, the presence of the connection somewhat simplifies and speeds up the foaming process.

We will look at installation methods for both types of extensions, starting with the simple ones.

Prices for extras

Installation of simple extensions

Simple additions can be connected with foam (the most quick way), nails and screws (the most long way). Choose the method that seems most appropriate to you, experienced builders install extensions only on foam. The method of installing the extensions has almost no effect on the reliability of fastening the platbands, and the work is significantly simplified and accelerated.

Adjustable extensions are installed only on foam.

Measuring and preparing accessories

The technological task of the extensions is to serve as a platform for attaching platbands. In order for the platbands to lie correctly, the end of the extensions must lie in line with the plane of the wall. Measurements should be taken on an already installed door frame. Sizing is performed in the following ways.

Now you need to find out the height of the left and right elements and the length of the horizontal one. At the top of the box, the extensions are connected by the letter P, take this into account when taking dimensions.

You can cut additional boards hand saw, jigsaw, portable electric saw or stationary machine. The latter option is preferable - the work is much faster, its accuracy increases and the risks of chipping are minimized.

First, cut the pieces to length, then make width marks on each one at the ends. Draw a straight, even line and carefully cut off the excess part. It is better to draw a straight line using the same extensions; you don’t have to look for straight and long wooden slats. At the cut site, you need to remove a small chamfer, so the board will fit more tightly to the door frame.

Jigsaw prices

jigsaw

Video - Measuring extras

All elements are prepared, you can start installing them. Let's start from the very beginning complex method and let's finish with the simplest one.

Installing extensions with self-tapping screws

Step 1. On the extensions, make a hole for the screws.

The thickness of the MDF boards is 10 millimeters; for melting you need to take a drill with a diameter of no more than 9 millimeters. The exact diameter should be coordinated with the diameter of the screw head. The diameter of the caps, in turn, changes with their length. The length of the screws is selected so that they fit into the door frame two or three turns, otherwise it may crack.

It is advisable that the drills be made to look like wood; they have thin needle-like protrusions at the end, which allow more accurate centering of the hole and prevent the drill from moving during drilling.

Important. Always leave at least 1.5 mm of board thickness on the side of the front part of the extension; there is nothing to worry about if the hole for the countersunk completely drills out the side of the extension from the back side. The depth of the hole is regulated by the length of the screws; the main condition, as we have already mentioned, is that they should be screwed into the box no more than two or three turns. In total, it is enough to install 4 screws for the long vertical part, and make the same number of holes.

Step 2. Drill holes for screws. The diameter of the drill must match the diameter of the screws. Drilling these holes is somewhat more difficult; you need a keen eye and dexterity.

How to drill them?

1. It is better to drill holes on the back side of the holes for the countersunk.
   Very important. You will need to drill not perpendicular to the plane of the board, but at a slight angle. This is done so that the self-tapping screw is directed towards the center of the door frame - the possible risks of cracking on the front part are reduced. If the end of the screw comes out from the back of the box, there is nothing to worry about.

   

2. Place the drill perpendicular to the drilling plane exactly opposite the hole for the countersunk.
3. Drill a few millimeters deep, turn off the drill. Set the drill bit at the desired angle and continue drilling until its tip appears in the countersunk hole.

   

   

We have already mentioned that this method is the most difficult; we do not recommend using it. But, if someone has convinced you, then we will continue to talk about him. Prepare all the elements of the accessories using the described method.

Step 3. Insert the screws into the holes and twist them until the ends appear on the opposite side.

Step 4. Screw on the vertical extensions first, then the horizontal ones. If the self-tapping screw is tightly screwed, do not use much force, unscrew it a few turns, and then screw it in again.

Step 5. Check the position of the accessories if there are places with loose fit to the door frame - press them with any available materials.

Step 6 Prevent the boards from bending with polyurethane foam.

To do this, you can fix them in two ways: with construction paper tape or spacers. Construction tape has high tensile strength in the perpendicular direction and calmly holds the force of the foam. If the wall is smooth, use carpenter's tape and stick it to the paneling and the wall in three or four places on the vertical elements and two or three on the horizontal ones.

If the tape does not stick to the wall, use spacers. They can be made from wooden slats. The length of the slats should be 1÷2 centimeters shorter than the width of the doors. Subsequently, the spacers are pressed with various pads.

Step 7 Fill the gap between the wall and the extensions with polyurethane foam.

Very important. It is rare to find responsible builders who, before foaming any structures, clean them of dust and wet the surfaces. And foam has very weak adhesion to dry surfaces; there is nothing to say about dust and dirt. Try to touch fresh foam with a wet finger - then you won’t be able to wash it off with anything.

For foaming, use any foam, the extensions are not a door frame, they do not carry any load, you can use the cheapest brands. The main thing is don’t leave any gaps. If the gap between the wall and the extension is narrow and deep, fit various extensions to the nozzle. For very thin cracks, we used cocktail tubes - we taped them to the existing outlet of the foam can and worked. This design, however, is disposable, but you don’t need more.

Step 8 Wait at least 24 hours for the foam to cool, and use a sharp mounting knife to cut off any excess. Check the stability of the position of the extensions by tapping. If you find problem areas, add foam to them.

Prices for polyurethane foam

polyurethane foam

Video - Installing extensions with screws

That's it, the work on installing the extensions is finished, you can start working with

Installation of extensions on studs

In this section we will talk about another way to measure the dimensions of the extensions. They need to be inserted one by one into the seats of the door frame and using the sharp side of the rule to draw a wall line.

You must act carefully. If you inserted additional elements in the position in which they will be fixed, then the marked line must be symmetrically moved to the other side of the board and only cut along it. But you can insert the board rotated, then the line will immediately be in its place. Further, all cutting operations are identical to those described above.

Step 1. Using a small-diameter drill (should correspond to the diameter of the finishing nails no more than one millimeter), drill holes at a distance of approximately 20 cm in the end of the extension adjacent to the door frame.

In the photo - the finishing nail next to the finisher

Important. Drill carefully, keep the drill strictly in vertical position. The depth of the holes should be 3-5 millimeters less than the length of the nails.

Step 2. Insert the nails into the drilled holes until they stop. Before doing this, you need to bite off the caps with pliers; the carnations are inserted with the sharp end outward.

Step 3. Carefully insert each accessory element one by one into its place in the door frame. Using a hammer, drive the sharp protruding ends of the nails into the door frame through the wood spacer. Take your time; before fixing, firmly press the additional element against the side of the protruding seat of the box. If you are inattentive and miss a gap, you will have to remove the additional element and start all over again or seal the gap with sealant that matches the door. Both options are highly undesirable. In the first case, because you will have to pull out the “wrong” nail and drill a hole for it in another place. The fact is that the incorrect fastening is located a few tenths of a millimeter from the correct one. And in this case, the nail will never make a new hole for itself, but will always slide into the existing one. In the second case, any sealing of cracks with sealant will not go unnoticed and will indicate the low professionalism of the performer.

Step 4. Wedge the extensions on the back side, secure their position with tape or spacers to prevent them from bursting with foam.

Step 5. Clean the surfaces from dust and dirt, moisten them with an ordinary water spray (spray).

Step 6 Fill the gap with sealant over the entire plane. After the foam has cooled, carefully cut off the protruding part.

Video - Installing extensions on studs

We deliberately left the simplest method for last, this will give you the opportunity to compare all the described methods and make right choice. Marking and cutting out elements is no different from the first two.

And then everything is simple. Place the extensions in place, wedge them from the inside until the surfaces are completely pressed against the seats of the door frame, prevent them from bursting with tape or spacers, and foam them after cleaning and wetting the surfaces. As you can see, there are no steps, drilling or hammering. Why do we recommend using this particular method?

1. The strength of such an installation is no different from complex methods.
2. You never run the risk of damaging the extensions while drilling holes or driving in nails for one simple reason - there are no holes or nails.
3. While the “big” specialist is drilling holes for screws or nails, you will completely install the extensions on two door frames yourself with the same quality of work as him.

We compared how much fewer technological operations there are, how much less there is the risk of damage to the extensions and door frame, and how much more benefits? Now make your decision.

Video - Installing foam extensions

Installation of adjustable extensions

Adjustable extensions have several advantages.

1. Connecting the elements into a tongue/groove allows the elements to be tightly pressed with visible planes. The appearance of cracks is completely eliminated; there is no need to wedge them.

   

2. The extensions can move up/down or out/in in the door frame. These few “free” millimeters allow you to precisely adjust their location and compensate possible mistakes during measuring or sawing.

   

   

Such extensions also have a drawback - they cannot be installed without a stationary circular. The fact is that only a stationary circular saw can be used to cut a tenon on additional elements required thickness and depth.

How are they installed?

Step 1. Take measurements, while taking into account the depth of the groove on the door frame. You can measure it and add it to the resulting width values, or you can take a piece of thin plywood or a ruler, insert it into the groove and measure the width of the extensions in this position. Take measurements in several places around the entire perimeter of the doorway; walls are often uneven.

Step 2. Mark the left and right extensions and transfer the dimensions to the blanks.

Important. In order to simplify the installation of all elements in the future, reduce their width by 2–3 millimeters. This reserve will make it possible to move the extensions in the grooves in the desired direction.

Step 3. Cut the blanks to length and width.

Step 4. Set the circular saw stop to the width of the tenon, raise the saw table in such a way as to ensure the required height of the tenon. Place the board on the edge and carefully cut out the tenon.

Step 5. In the same way, prepare all the remaining elements of the additions.

Everything else is simple. Install them in place, align them at the joints and along the plane of the wall. To prevent expansion, stick construction tape to the wall and extensions, clean the surfaces from dirt and dust, wet them and foam them. The presence of a tongue/groove connection eliminates the need for wedging; the extensions already hold their size perfectly and are tightly pressed to the door frame.

Video - Installation of adjustable extensions

When installing accessories, do not create unnecessary problems and difficulties for yourself, use only the third most in a simple way– installation on foam. Why?

1. Firstly, the extensions are never affected by pulling forces; in any case, they will reliably hold the platbands.
2. Secondly, the nails serve only to securely press the extensions to the door frame, and do not keep them from being pulled out. Ordinary wedges made of foam plastic, paper and other available materials cope with the same task no worse.
3. Thirdly, any “drilling” in thin boards and in the door frame can cause the appearance of front side cracks You will have to change the accessory or repair the box.

No one needs the first, second, and third. Why are there the first two installation methods? We think this is one of the effective methods undeserved increase in wages for unscrupulous builders. They importantly tell customers that for such complex work they need to pay appropriate amounts.

You should not nail the horizontal expansion to the vertical ones in the corners of the joints; it is already perfectly pressed with foam. If you are worried, press it in these places with any wedges. Extra nails in thin trims are an extra chance to see a hole on the front part, and this is a direct defect in the work.

Do not nail the planks together

Before installing the extensions in the door frame, you can find advice to connect all the elements with the letter P. We do not recommend doing this for two reasons.

1. Firstly, it does not reduce, but increases installation time.
2. Secondly, the connection is “flimsy”; during the movement and installation of the structure, the nails will still move a little and a gap will appear between the horizontal and vertical extensions. In any case, it will need to be eliminated on the spot.
3. Thirdly, the structure may become so distorted during transportation that the nails will compromise the integrity of the front side of the extensions. This is very unpleasant situation, it will never be possible to repair a crack “to its original state.” An experienced master will always see the problem area.

AND last tip. Sometimes there are times when you have to invite a specialist to help. You install several door panels yourself, and a few must be installed by a professional. Perhaps you want to finish this stage of building a bathhouse as quickly as possible, or you don’t have enough time, your vacation is ending, but you want to finish finishing the bathhouse as soon as possible, the reasons may be different.

The master has come - look what tools he has. If they are dirty, it is immediately obvious that they are not being looked after - refuse the services of such a master. If among his tools you see sealants for cracks, shake the “craftsman’s” hand and send him back. Modern doors made of MDF must be installed so accurately that the presence of cracks only indicates carelessness, inexperience or irresponsibility of the master.

Video - Installing a door extension

This article discusses everything about door trim elements: their types and sizes, the materials from which they are made and how to install them correctly different types this attribute.

What it is?

Often when installing doors it is clear that the canvas alone is not enough to complete the picture. It is necessary to complete the work so that the opening is completed and looks most aesthetically pleasing. To achieve this goal, additional fees are used entrance doors. Additional elements are a U-shaped structure consisting of three overlays - two vertical and one horizontal. They are necessary to complete the installation of the door frame.

Kinds

When choosing extras for entrance group you need to know that they are divided into three types:

1. Plain without edge. This is the simplest option. It has the appearance of an untreated straight plank. The cuts are hidden, but if there are changes in humidity, this design will not serve you for long.
2. Plain with edge. When choosing such extensions, all edges will be covered with an edge that will protect the material from moisture. When using these two types of extensions, the structural elements must be perfectly matched, otherwise part of the covering will have to be cut off.
3. Telescopic. They are the most convenient and most versatile among all presented. The reason for this is that the “groove + tongue” system is used in manufacturing, which allows the use of panels of absolutely any size.

Materials

These devices are made from materials such as fiberboard or laminated boards, metal and wood. If you select an element to metal door, preference should be given to wooden panels. In combination, this will create a reliable and beautiful design. PVC trims are used only with doors of the same material, otherwise a mismatch of materials will be noticeable in the interior.

Advantages

The additions provide the following benefits for the door leaf:

• Moisture resistance;
• Resistant to physical influences;
• Soundproofing;
• Thermal insulation;
• Opportunity self-installation;
• Fast installation speed;
• There is no need for putty to fill visible imperfections;
• Big choice colors;
• Attractiveness;
• Resistance to subsidence of the door frame during operation;
• Long-term operation.

Dimensions

Dimensions additional elements depend on size doorway. The width of simple additional elements can vary from 10 to 20 centimeters. Most often, platbands are available in widths of 10, 12.15 and 20 cm. But options with arbitrary, predetermined and required widths for a specific opening are possible.

Usage telescopic extensions allows you to line an opening in a wall of any width. Although there are standards for the sizes of such extensions (90, 120 and 150 millimeters), thanks to their characteristics, such elements can ennoble even the largest opening.

It is necessary to select the dimensions of elements with particular accuracy. Even an error of a centimeter can ruin all the work you have done. It is better to take elements with a reserve, because in the process of work it is easier to remove the “extra” size than to increase the missing millimeters.

Calculation of the number of elements

There are standards to which door manufacturers make doors. In Europe standard height doors - 210 centimeters, in Russia - two meters. The extensions, accordingly, must be of identical length. And they can have different widths: from 5 to 55 centimeters. Quality wooden elements or MDF elements have a width of 10 millimeters.

It is difficult to select parts for private houses. They were built without taking into account modern standards. This often makes it difficult to choose extensions of the required length and width.

• During installation, the extension will go a little deeper, and accordingly, its size will decrease;
• The distance between the edges of the door frame is measured with a tape measure;
• All measurements are checked in three places: on the left, top and right of the opening;
• The working value will be the largest.

Here is an example of the calculation. The partition has a width of 240 millimeters, the door frame is 80 millimeters. This means that an additional 160 millimeters is required. A blade 200 millimeters wide will suit you; excess is removed with a saw or jigsaw.

Installation process

Each element has its own installation features. Let's consider the installation of each type of extension:

Installation of conventional extensions

You can immediately notice that cladding begins only after the foam has dried and the door leaf has been completely assembled. It is necessary to prepare the surface for cladding. To do this, you will need to clear the foam from a place about 1-2 centimeters deep behind the door frame.

Next comes the installation process itself. The top additional strip is prepared first. First, it is sawed along the length (if possible, you need to make sure that the product is slightly larger than the opening), then the width. To select the correct width of the workpiece, you need to inside Use a pencil to draw two marks using the wall as a guide. For quality work To cut out the part you will need a jigsaw with a wood saw installed on it. After this, the top element is ready to be installed in place. But for final installation it is necessary to make both side parts. They are adjusted in the same way as the top element.

You should also pay attention to the length of all elements.

There should be no gaps between all three extensions, and the top part should be placed in a horizontal groove.

When all of the above has been done, you begin attaching this structure. To begin, take wooden wedges or thick cardboard and wedge it into the box and opening. This is done in order to get rid of the gap between them.

Next, the evenness of the installation of the extension is checked. In this case, it is necessary to check all the gaps: at the joints of the elements, do not forget to check the bottom of the side parts. If necessary, we correct or wedge it with various inserts.

After this, you need a foam balloon with low pressure, when it hardens, we fill all visible voids with it. We first fix the entire structure point by point with foam, then fill all the voids. If it is necessary to install platbands, you will have to wait for the foam to dry completely.

Installation of telescopic extensions

This type finishing elements must be installed if there are cracks and chips on the walls; protruding wires can also be the cause. Thanks to them, aesthetics and tightness are achieved. Another factor may be size - when the wall thickness is more than 140 millimeters, there is a need for such special panels, with which you will close this gap.

When installing telescopic extensions, you need: precise eye, accuracy, attention to detail and slowness. There are three ways to install them:

• with the top bar located between the side bars;
• with the top bar located above the side ones, top part“lies” on the sides;
• with cutting down the joints of the parts at an angle of 45 degrees.

The last method is the most difficult to implement, so if you have the slightest uncertainty, you must either choose another option or contact a specialist.

The installation process of such extensions is similar to the installation of conventional extensions. The production of parts begins only after the box with the already hung door leaf. It is necessary to wait for the foam to dry completely, remove the excess pieces of foam that “stick out” and then begin installing the extensions. Their peculiarity is that the width is adjusted not by cutting the part, but by using slats. The width of the additional panel depends directly on the number of slats.

The first step is to install slats around the entire perimeter of the door jamb. Only after checking the accuracy of the work performed can you install the second row, and, if necessary, the third and fourth. Experienced craftsmen can collect finished design all at once, but it’s not worth the risk during installation. It is much better to do this job slowly and carefully.

It is necessary to carefully adjust the horizontal and vertical elements to get rid of possible gaps. When installing, you also need to pay attention to how tightly the ridges fit into the grooves. In the absence of tightness, additional cracks may appear when the parts are driven together. Because this design It is not heavy in weight and it will not experience frequent mechanical stress, that is, there are two options for fastening structures: finishing nails or liquid nails.

Often you may encounter a situation where doorjamb is far from perfect and there is a bias. But even in this case, you can mount the extensions correctly and beautifully. If there is a skew, then during installation the top part will deviate from the side parts. If there is a deviation of 5 degrees or more, it is recommended to correct the distortion and only then begin to install the elements. When starting work with a warped jamb, over time you may end up with additional cracks that will ruin the entire interior.

Not everyone knows what it is door panel and why it is needed. This is a kind of “extender” of the door frame. In fact, this is an ordinary strip, matched to the tone of the frame and trim, which allows you to quickly and aesthetically tidy up the doorway when installing a door or during repairs.

To frame the wide doorway, they came up with the idea of ​​installing a special board - an extension

Most modern factory-made boxes are produced in a width of 7-8 cm. In most cases, the walls are much thicker. It is in order to quickly and beautifully cover the area that the box does not cover, and there are extensions. Almost all manufacturers make a groove at the end of the box to install this board. Then there are no difficulties during installation at all: cut a strip of the required width from the board, insert it into the groove (you can coat it with glue), and you can install the platbands. In any case, installing the extensions yourself is possible. To do this you need a saw, nails, a hammer, or self-tapping screws and a screwdriver, polyurethane foam, and a miter box. That's the whole tool.

Most often, the additional board is made of MDF, covered with veneer or laminated with PVC film. The color and texture are matched to match the door leaf and door frame. It’s easier to do this right away when purchasing a door: compare shades and appearance on the spot.

The dimensions are as follows:

• board thickness - from 5 to 30 mm;
• its width is from 30 mm to 250 mm;
• length is usually about 2.10-2.2 m.

You need to take it with a margin of length and width - the walls are rarely even, so you often have to cut the plank not straight, but “to a cone”.

There are even special, width-adjustable door frames - telescopic. They come already with additions and platbands. Very convenient, and no problems with choosing colors, textures or joining.

Installation Methods

Installation methods depend on whether the box has a groove or not. If there is a groove, installation is very simple: the bar is inserted into it. All. Great view, no problems. In this case, the depth of the groove is 10 mm. Due to this, you can correct a small error in the thickness of the wall, if any.

If there is no groove, there may be several options:

Choose one of the options that seems more acceptable to you. The result will be the same: a beautifully designed doorway.

Installation

Now you need to figure out how to put the extensions on the door. This can be done in two ways: in the form of the letter “P” or by filing the ends at 45 o.

Cutting the strips to width

First of all, measure the required width. You will need three planks: two long on the sides and one short on the top. For each, take measurements separately, at three or four points. Cut each extension to the maximum width for that side. The excess can then be removed with a plane, but it will definitely not be possible to grow it. If there is a groove in the box, do not forget to add 1 cm to the measurements - this is its depth.

Installation procedure

With a “U”-shaped installation, you support the top bar from below flush with cut side strips. In this case, it is important to guess the height of the side elements down to the millimeter, otherwise there will be a gap. It is better to grind it down a little by hand if necessary.

When measuring, pay special attention to ensure that the bar rests evenly, with its entire plane, on the floor. At the same time, make sure that there is no debris, even grains of sand, under it. This is the only way to install the extensions with your own hands without any gaps.

Carefully, with a very sharply sharpened pencil, or better yet, a knife (the line will be thinner), make a mark in the place where you need to start cutting (where the top bar begins). Then saw off at exactly 90 o. Place the top bar, then the side bar. If everything is fine, move on to the next one. It must also be measured carefully. Do not make a copy of an existing one; most often, there is at least a small difference. And even one or two millimeters will result in a noticeable gap.

When cutting corners at 45 o, the order of work is different: first one side plank is attached, then the top one, then the second side one. Afterwards, everything is assembled for fitting, adjusted if necessary, and only then installed finally.

With this option, the accuracy of the marks is no less important, but it is also necessary to accurately file the corners. When using professional equipment this is not particularly difficult, but without it you will have to try. You definitely need a carpentry device for cutting boards at different angles - a miter box. By securing the bar in it, you can cut it at the desired angle with sufficient accuracy. Just use a metal blade: this will give you a smoother cut and fewer nicks.

After fitting, you install all the planks completely: with glue, nails or screws, depending on which method you chose. Almost everything, just a few touches remain and the doors will be ready.

Final touches

Having installed the extensions on the doors, they are wedged at the joints with wooden wedges, pressing tightly at the joints. Now you need to foam the gaps between the wall and the extension. Take a can of polyurethane foam and blow it in small portions with foam. Squeeze out the foam little by little. Better later add, than the foam, expanding, will move your structure from its place (and such a possibility exists if there is too much of it). After it dries, the excess is cut off with a knife flush with the wall. You can install platbands.

Watch the installation process in the video. This is what professionals do. You can learn. Very precise and neat.

Results

Door extensions (additional boards and or strips) allow you to beautifully design a doorway if the width of the wall is greater than the width of the door frame. If you have minimal skills in handling a saw, glue, nails and foam, you can install them yourself.

During repairs, you may be faced with the need to install additional panels, but you can do this yourself, since installing planks for interior doors easy to learn.

These strips are installed to maximize the perimeter of the doorway. They consist of two vertical supports with one horizontal bar. This modification is needed in two cases: if the width of the door frame less wall or just to frame the opening and. They often come with door block and have no complex design, which means you can try to make them yourself. Moreover, this skill will come in handy on the farm more than once. They are made from different materials, such as MDF, fiberboard, metal, wood, which allows them to fit any furniture, wallpaper, interior.

Material for door trims

The simplest extensions are made from straight boards. You just need to buy the material, cut off the excess from it, and adjust the connections for the fasteners. A groove mount would be best. On the front side of the board, mark the contours for cutting. Using a router, chisel and drill, cut down unnecessary material. Then clean the surface sandpaper. We make a tenon on the wrong side; to do this, you need to remove the wood from the marked mark. Now about aesthetics. To obtain the required shade, you will need a stain, which will also protect the material from aging. Then you should varnish them several times or paint them in the desired color. If the structure needs to be installed in a bathroom, then the coating must protect against high levels of humidity.

The extension is assembled from three parts, it looks like the letter “P” and is attached to the door frame, the wall in the area of ​​the opening and to the mounting beam. Liquid nails or galvanized self-tapping screws are used to secure the planks. When fixing with outside To mask the caps, plugs are installed or covered with special mastic.

Doors after installation of accessories

Also, additional strips can come complete with the door, and special grooves will be placed on them, which will allow you to quickly install the entire structure yourself without any unnecessary manipulations and measurements.

In another case, when there are no grooves either on the box or on the extension, the connection point can be improved. Sometimes in a set of expensive doors you can find a gasket for the junction of the frame and the extension. There is nothing stopping you from using the technique for an option that you made yourself. It is enough to take transparent silicone rubber bands and lay them around the perimeter. Naturally, you don’t have to call a specialist; this is also easy to do with your own hands.

It is quite difficult to talk about the assortment of accessories because of their specificity. There are only 2 designs - conventional (laminated slats, sometimes covered with veneer) and telescopic (stacked). Extensions of the first type can differ in cladding materials and width (100, 120, 150, 200 millimeters). The second can be used to finish the opening in the wall, whatever its thickness. They have a groove on one side and a ridge on the other, this allows you to assemble shields of different sizes. They also differ in design and width. Dimensions for interior doors – 100, 120, 150 millimeters.

Another variety is combined extensions that combine several functions - door strip and platband. They are considered decorative corner and are used with a special box of a specific design, in the sides of which there are deep grooves. A special platband is made in them. It is unrealistic to install them on too thick walls, but they can slightly increase the width of the doorway (up to 50 mm).

Installation without assistance – quickly and cleanly

In order to properly install the extensions, you must follow the instructions.

Installation of heating cable

Step 1: Cable Installation

First we need to dig a hole around the well, the depth of which should slightly exceed the freezing level of the soil. Following around casing pipe and cutting the pipeline that is connected to the well, we wrap the heating cable. The number of turns of the product is usually indicated on the cable packaging.

Step 2: Additional insulation

A layer of thermal insulating material must be laid on top of the pipes that are wrapped with cable. When choosing a material, you should pay attention to the maximum temperature at which the insulation will not lose its properties. If you do not take this point into account, then when the cable gets too hot, the insulation may simply melt. We close the structure from above waterproofing layer, which will protect the insulation and heating cable from exposure to groundwater.

Step 3: Completion of work

We check the structure to make sure it is stable and does not allow water to pass through, and fill the foundation pit.

Using this algorithm, you can install extensions on interior and entrance doors with your own hands. Only the width of the planks will be different. Making the box wider is allowed in different directions. And if there are no limiters, and the door can open in both directions, the frame is mounted flush with the outer plane of the opening. The extensions are placed on the side opposite to the closure. They will not interfere with the operation of the door.

As a rule, additional strips are installed on the opposite side door hinges sides. But it happens that you have to put it differently. In this case, it is better to make sure that they do not interfere with opening and closing. If, in a fully open state, there remains a gap between the edges of the frame and the door equal to the thickness of the product being installed with a margin of at least 2 mm, then there will be no problems. And when they are adjacent to the frame, you need to install backing strips, having first removed the plaster on the slopes.

Interior doors