How to build a garage from plank. We build a garage cheaply and quickly - detailed technology and recommendations

For true car enthusiasts, a car is not only a means of transportation, but also a reliable ally, friend and “fascinating designer.” The car is looked after, spark plugs and oil are changed, excellent fuel is added. But the highest manifestation of care is building a garage with your own hands. Such structures are rightly called the most reliable, since they were erected by scrupulous vehicle owners who know better than anyone what kind of “living space” is needed for their four-wheeled “iron friend.” In addition, money is saved from family budget, since unnecessary materials are not purchased and various expensive services are not used.

Build a garage constructor in a few days

Paperwork

A self-made garage, which is built on a plot of land that is not intended for construction, is considered a self-construction from the point of view of legislation. The same applies to the situation when work is carried out on land that does not belong to the owner of the car. Permits for a finished building do not need to be issued if:

• the garage is not permanent (metal and frame buildings);
• the building was not erected for commercial purposes on a summer cottage or garden plot;
• the building serves as an auxiliary structure.

All other options for unauthorized development are subject to legalization. A plot of land is also subject to registration, if such a procedure has not been carried out before.

Types of garages

Car shelters come in different designs. It all depends on financial capabilities, personal preferences and the available territory for development. A garage can be attached to the house from the end of a country house or residential building or behind it, or built under the house itself.

There are built-in garages with offset floors, but such an arrangement creates inconvenience during operation. Collapsible structures are available for sale. If desired, you can arrange a canopy. The cost of building a garage of this type is tolerable. This structure is the simplest, but at the same time an unreliable option.

But the most popular are detached garages, which are best located closer to the entrance to the land plot, so as not to build access roads through the entire territory, which “eat up” valuable square meters. The garage can be located on the building line of the site so that the garage doors go directly to the street. Similar buildings are permanently made of brick with a gable or flat roof, part of a utility unit or prefabricated metal structures.

Construction of a garage on your site

The long-awaited time has come to begin construction of the garage. Like any other job, building a car shelter will bring a lot of trouble, but also a lot of pleasure, and it will also allow you to save a lot. After looking at the photos of the garage construction, you will get a lot of positive emotions. And the result will not disappoint you!

Garage project

The beginning of any construction project is the project. You don't necessarily need to use a roll of drawings, but if you intend to create something truly worthwhile, it's worth drawing and describing the object first.

First of all, at the design stage you need to determine the following:

1. Problems that the garage will solve. Decide whether the shelter will serve solely as a parking place for the car, or whether it will also be used for renovation work? Maybe you need an inspection hole? Write down all your wishes on paper.
2. Shelter height dimensions. These parameters are determined based on the characteristics and size of the site on which the garage will be built, and on the tasks that it will solve.

If you only need it for parking a car, an area of ​​3 by 6 meters will suffice (if your car is not a Hummer). In such a room you can freely place a car up to 2 meters wide and 4.5 meters long. Along the garage there will be 50 centimeters on both sides for opening the doors and convenient exit from the car, and in front of it there will be space for parking.

The height of the garage must be made sufficient for the passage of a car - 1.5 - 1.9 meters. But it is better to tie this indicator to the size of the gate, which has a height of 2-2.5 meters. If you are not the owner of a prestigious foreign car, which is up to 5 meters long and up to 1.9 meters wide, the size of the garage should be increased.

If you plan to place an additional cellar and workbench, the dimensions, of course, should be increased further. However, in large garage it is convenient to repair and maintain a car, and on racks and shelves you can place tools, utility utensils and seasonal tires. When constructing a shelter for two cars, in addition to the parking space between vehicles, it is necessary to provide an additional distance of at least 70 centimeters.

Selecting a location

To choose a place to build a garage, it is recommended to develop a master plan for the land plot and place all the estate’s buildings on it, taking into account fire safety and sanitary and hygienic standards. It is also necessary to take into account the location of the garage relative to the boundaries of the land plot and the house, as well as the convenience of access to the garage.

The garage can be placed on the building line and in the depths of the site, if the doors, when opened, do not interfere with the movement of cars along the roadway; at a distance of 1 meter from the neighboring plot of land, if water does not fall on it, flowing from the roof of the garage.
The entrance to the garage, according to accepted sanitary standards, should be located at least 10 meters from the windows of neighboring houses.

Fire safety standards also dictate their requirements: it is recommended to place a detached garage no closer than 9 meters from the house and no closer than 15 meters from buildings finished with polymer materials.

At this stage, it is necessary to transfer the sketches on a sheet of paper to the real area. This stage requires a dozen pegs that are about forty centimeters long, a heavy hammer, a tape measure of five meters, possibly more, and a nylon cord. To link the garage to the terrain, you should determine the point at which one corner of the garage will be located, and the position of the shelter for the car relative to this point in space.

Construction materials

When building a garage with your own hands, you can use various building materials:

• brick is the most familiar and very common material, the construction in this case is quite reliable;
• reinforced concrete allows you to build reliable garage, which will be collapsible, you can dismantle such a structure at any time;
• slag concrete costs less than brick, but is more labor-intensive in the process, and the safety of the shelter is lower;
• metal allows you to build a structure quite quickly, and the cost of building a garage is not exorbitant, since it does not require large expenses for laying the foundation;
• wood is not the most suitable material for constructing a garage; it is not reliable and requires constant care.

Excavation and foundation

When building a garage excavation performed manually. Trench under monolithic foundation you need to dig at least 40 centimeters wide. Depending on the level of soil freezing in a certain region, the depth is chosen to be 0.6 - 1.2 meters. As a rule, a meter depth is enough.

Make the bottom of the trench not loose, that is, the soil should be selected up to a layer with natural density. Use a shovel to work the walls so that they are vertical and level. There are a huge number of options for garage foundations. But we will focus on a rubble concrete foundation, which is quite simple and relatively inexpensive.

A rubble concrete foundation is made simply: it is customary to lay rubble stone in rows in a trench, and pour cement mortar into each row until the trench is filled to the very top. To fill the rubble, take a solution of at least grade 150. To do this, mix Portland cement grade 400 with sand, based on the calculation of 2.5 buckets of sand per bucket of cement. Pour water until the required mobility of the solution is achieved, near the bucket.

Garage basement

Along the perimeter of the trench for the construction of the plinth, formwork should be installed from boards about 10 centimeters wide. It is customary to set the formwork by level. If you have an uneven site, then take the highest place as a basis, add ten centimeters to the level of the base and mark the horizon from there.

Along the base it is necessary to install horizontal waterproofing from several layers of roofing material that are laid dry. Waterproofing is needed to prevent the garage walls from absorbing capillary moisture from the ground. Before construction of the garage and walls begins, it is necessary to install garage doors, which will be fixed into the masonry as the wall is built.

Garage Doors

The gate must be reliable and easy to use. They come in swing, sectional, roller and lift-and-turn types. The gate can open automatically or mechanically. The first option is preferable, since the product is opened using the control panel without leaving the car. However, it is worth considering a manual mode in case of a lack of electricity.

Make the frame of the gate leaves from wooden blocks that are 90-100 mm wide and 50 mm thick. Outside paint the frame and nail 6 mm plywood onto the wet paint. Turn the workpiece over and fill the empty cavity between the bars with insulation directly onto the fresh paint to prevent the insulation from sliding down.

After this, you should paint the frame on the other side and nail plywood or hardboard, also pre-painted over the entire surface. The result will be a warm sandwich of plywood, insulation and hardboard. Doors garage doors must be hung with three metal loops in such a way that the canvas fits into the quarter, which is selected in door block, tight.

To increase the strength of the connection with the wall, embedded parts are welded to the gate frame - round rods with a diameter of 10-12 millimeters. When laying, the rods must be sealed in the seams. The gate is installed vertically, checking with a plumb line or level. Check the vertical position along the gate frame, left and right. You can move the gate with a small crowbar or with flat stones placed under the corners.

Walls in the garage

After installing the garage door, you need to start laying the walls, lay cinder block (foam concrete or brick) with a wall width of 200 millimeters using a “brick” - ordinary chain laying: the next row should overlap the seams of the previous row. Laying should start from the corners. Next, you should stretch a thin cord between them, and lay the remaining blocks along this cord. Then we raise the corners and the process repeats.

It is recommended to check the verticality of the walls with a plumb line, paying special attention to the verticality of the corners. Use a level to check the rows are horizontal. Make sure there is an appropriate slope to ensure proper drainage of rainwater. For this purpose, make the end walls of the garage of different heights, making the upper edge of the side wall with a slope.

The slope must be arranged based on the differences in height: for every meter 5 centimeters. For example, with a garage length of 6 meters, the total difference will reach 30 centimeters. To ensure an even slope, pull the cord to guide you.

In addition, it is recommended to take care of scaffolding, which is necessary when laying walls higher than 1.5 meters. You can make scaffolding from anything - old door leaves, boards with the condition that they can easily support the weight of one person, several buckets of mortar and 5 - 6 building blocks. Total weight is about 170 - 200 kilograms.

The mortar for laying garage walls is mixed at the rate of one bucket of cement marked 400 per 4.5 buckets of sand. Do not make the solution too liquid; it should reach the consistency of thick sour cream. To make the solution more plastic and not delaminate, add about half a bucket of ordinary clay or lime paste to it.

Make the wall height on the gate side about 2.5 meters. The height of the wall into which the slope goes should be about 2 meters. If necessary, the height of the walls can be safely increased to 3, even 4 meters, but the masonry in this situation must be reinforced metal mesh every 4 - 5 rows.

Ceiling and roof

The garage floor can be made using metal beams with plank lining. To cover, you need to stock up on steel beams with a height of 100 - 120 millimeters. Such beams can cover a garage that is up to 6 meters wide. Choose the length of the beams 20 - 25 centimeters longer than the width of the garage so that they extend into the wall by at least 10 centimeters.

The beams need to be laid across the garage, parallel to the shortest wall in increments of 80 centimeters. It is recommended to lay the beams and embed them in a long wall, and then repeat its slope. After this, proceed to sewing the ceiling. Lay 40 mm thick boards along the bottom flanges of the beams, trying to move them as tightly as possible.

Place roofing felt on top of the boards, rolling the roll across the garage so that the edges bend 10 centimeters upward. Fill the roofing felt with slag, expanded clay or semi-rigid mineral slab. The roof at the front and rear should protrude beyond the garage wall by at least 20 centimeters in order to protect the wall from water. The canopies are made from boards, running beams under the top shelf.

On top of the slag, make a screed from cement mortar, which is prepared in the same proportion as for masonry. The thickness of the screed is ideally at least 20 mm, and it is better if it reaches 30 - 35 millimeters. The screed must be done without allowing strong bumps and depressions. In this form, the garage roof will absorb moisture, leaking even with light rain.

To avoid such situations, it is worth covering the roof with a waterproof material, using rolled roofing materials of the roofing material variety. Roofing material and all modifications (bikrost, aquaizol and rubemast) are usually glued to the roof using two methods: using bitumen mastic or by fusing method.

Before gluing the roofing felt, it is recommended to treat the cement screed with a bitumen primer or primer, otherwise it will not stick. You can prepare the primer yourself: to do this, you need to mix molten bitumen and diesel fuel, or bitumen and waste engine oil in a ratio of 1 to 3. It should be remembered that bitumen is poured into oil (diesel), and not vice versa.

It takes two people to glue the roofing felt carpet. They begin gluing from the low part of the roof, moving up the slope, across the glue rolls, with an overlap of at least 10 centimeters. At the end and at the beginning of the roof, roofing material is usually overlapped onto the end board of the canopy. Before installation, the beams should be painted twice, the boards should be treated with an antiseptic and painted on both sides.

Floors and blind areas

In the garage, it is customary to install the floor at the level of the plinth edge. Since a car will drive into the car shelter, the highest demands are placed on the strength of the floor. The material for the floor is concrete. The thickness of the layer reaches 8-10 centimeters. Before laying the concrete mass, the earthen base is thoroughly cleaned and leveled.

If backfilling is needed, it can be done with fine crushed stone, or with sand followed by compaction. For the floor, ready-made concrete M200 is ordered. Or they prepare the solution themselves based on the following proportion: 1 bucket of cement, 3 buckets of fine crushed stone and 2 buckets of sand. Take no more than a bucket of water.

To make the floor level, you need to tighten the laces, or level the beacons from profile pipe. When installing a floor in a garage, it is customary to lay concrete in portions without interruption. If you decide to display beacons, then lay concrete between the beacons in strips. After laying, the concrete must be thoroughly rubbed and, if desired, reinforced.

Outside the garage you need to create a blind area 50 centimeters wide. They carry out the work similarly to the floor, first arranging a crushed stone base and laying concrete on top. The thickness of the concrete on the blind area should be about 4-5 centimeters. The blind area should have a slight slope directed away from the garage, since its purpose is to drain melt and rainwater from the walls.

Finishing and heating

The garage does not require special finishing, but it would not be a bad idea to rub the walls with cement mortar, or even plaster them in one layer and whitewash them with lime. Insulating a car shelter is an open question, but no amount of insulation will save you in the winter cold without primitive heating equipment. Insulation can be carried out using foam plastic slabs 5 centimeters thick, or semi-rigid mineral wool slabs.

Attached and built-in garages are usually warm because they are heated using the home boiler. Garage heating can be water or electric. It is also possible to install oil convectors and infrared heaters. But in any case, the temperature in winter should be at least 5-6 degrees Celsius.

Remember that cars do not “live” for long in a room that is too warm. High temperatures contribute to the formation of condensation on the body, lead to corrosion of car parts and shorten its service life.

Garage ventilation

Set up a good garage supply and exhaust ventilation, through which the smell of hot oils and gasoline, as well as exhaust gases, will be removed from the room, which helps dry the car and creates normal air exchange, which for one car is 180 m3/h.

Effective ventilation implies 6-10 times air exchange. To ensure this, it is customary to use three modes of ventilation: combined, mechanical and natural. The most inexpensive and in a simple way is natural air exchange. Install supply grilles at the bottom of the gate. Air will be removed from the garage through a deflector - a special exhaust device located at the end of the exhaust air duct.

The air duct in the garage is located near the wall opposite the gate. This design works like this: a heavy load enters the garage. Fresh air by gravity through the supply grilles, displacing the less dense waste. To ensure effective ventilation, the cross-section of the supply system must be 2 times larger than the cross-section of the exhaust system. But the natural regime also has its drawbacks, because it depends on various external factors: the difference between internal and external temperatures, as well as wind pressure.

If an exhaust fan is installed in the garage, you get a combined ventilation system. It is mounted in the air duct that passes through the roof of the garage, or into the wall. The disadvantages of such a system are the constant work exhaust fan, lack of filtration and heating of air that comes from the street.

Mechanical ventilation does not have the listed flaws, because in this case special devices of the exhaust and supply systems are responsible for the removal and supply of air. Supply ventilation consists of a filter, fan and heater. Air enters the system through ventilation duct, is heated, filtered and enters the room through the air distributor. Exhaust air is removed through an exhaust fan.

Inspection hole

An inspection pit is considered a necessary part of the garage, since modern cars require maintenance and repair from time to time. For some car owners, the installation of an inspection hole is most likely a tribute to fashion and habit rather than a necessity.
But if you have decided to have a hole, then start work by marking it on the surface of the garage site. It is recommended to move the inspection hole 10-20 cm to the right relative to the central axis in order to increase the free space on the left side for the driver to move and the workbench device.

The length of the pit should be equal to the length of the car minus the width of the bumper. This is done so that you do not accidentally fall into an open hole with your foot. To repair the rear and front of the car, the car must be moved forward or backward.

Entrance to the pit better stairs do not equip it due to the risk of injury; in addition, there will always be high humidity in the pit, and therefore the wooden staircase will rot very quickly. Instead of a ladder, it is recommended to make several steps 30-35 centimeters wide and in increments of 30-40 centimeters. The steps must be filled with concrete with the walls of the pit.

The surface of the steps is good to use for tools during repairs; you can lean on them to create additional force when lifting heavy machine parts. It is advisable to frame the upper borders with a corner to protect them from destruction. The corners must be reinforced - weld metal bolts or rods on the side to rigid mounting in the concrete box of the inspection hole.

It is mandatory to install a limiting block along the edges of the contour of the pit; in this case, you need to make an oval on the outer side, which pushes the car away from the hole - when hitting it, the wheel will slide off the block to the outer side.

Then you can use different variants covering the pit with lids. The framing contour of the pit and the lid are made of shields, which consist of three to four boards that are 40 millimeters thick. To facilitate movement along the pit of the shields, balls are inserted into the lower part of the boards, which differ in diameter 15-20 millimeters.

Access to the garage

The road to the garage must be included in the project documentation. The type of coating, on the one hand, must correspond to the style of the car shelter, on the other hand, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the soil, the level of groundwater and the geology of the site. A lightweight version of masonry involves fastening bricks or tiles with mortar; some solutions involve backfilling with sand, gravel and drainage.

Finally, the access road needs to be linked into a single harmonious system with garden paths, taking into account the needs of home owners, because such “transport highways” divide the personal territory into functional zones. It is also recommended to ensure stylistic compatibility of various coatings.

The driveway to the garage must have a hard and level surface, which can be made of concrete slabs, curly paving elements or asphalt. Such a solid base will protect the path from splitting under the weight of the machine. When building an access road to the garage, it is imperative to follow the technology for constructing the garage and the road, since without this, with the onset of spring, the path may swell and the tiles may move apart.

Thus, you already know how to build a car shelter with your own hands. To consolidate the material, watch a video about building a garage, after which you can stock up on the necessary materials and tools and get to work immediately!

Many people dream of a good and inexpensive garage, especially residents of big cities. Men perceive the garage as their personal place, a refuge, a refuge. So what is the best way to make it? Let's figure it out.

About preparation

First of all, I would like to say that it is cheaper to build your own garage than to buy one. Sometimes prices skyrocket for old and rotten boxes, especially in cities with a population of over a million, where there is an acute shortage of even parking spaces.

1. Before construction it is necessary notify the administration of your locality that you are going to build a garage. Be prepared that the authorities may demand money, that’s how everything works.
2. First you need choose a place. A dry place on a small hill is ideal so that excess moisture quickly evaporates and puddles do not form. Otherwise, in cold weather you will have to literally fight your way to the entrance.
3. Do not be shy attach yours to another garage, but only with the owner’s permission. It is advisable that the foundation of the future garage be sand or clay for subsequent excavation of space for a basement.
4. When the location is chosen, you should start building the basement first. Dig with an excavator (if money is really tight, you can do it yourself) the entrance to the basement about one and a half to two meters, and then proceed to directly level the basement of any shape and size that you prefer. Then put concrete walls(concrete is recommended because wood and other wooden materials will rot quickly), floor and ceiling. The basement is ready.

Construction of a garage

Now let's move on to the ground part. Start building walls. Can be used:

• concrete plates;
• strong bricks (white);
• expanded clay blocks;
• profile pipe (for the frame);
• aerated concrete;
• cinder block;
• wood;
• sandwich panels.

Advice! Be sure to make a small hole in the wall to allow excess moisture to escape from the garage in the spring and fall.

Roof, gate and floor

Then you will need to install a strong iron gate, which you can buy or make yourself. After erecting the walls and gates, you will need to work on the roof. The roof can be made flat (the easiest option). To do this, lay concrete slabs on the wall using specialized equipment.

It is not prohibited to erect a sloped roof. Which is often not recommended, because it is inconvenient to use when applied to garage structures.

After the walls and roof are built, the floor needs to be built. To do this, place boards around the perimeter of the entrance to the basement, as if fencing it off. Fill the remaining space with concrete (not in the basement, of course) up to the level of the door. After the concrete has hardened, you will have a garage, or rather a “sub-garage.”

The most important part: electrical

To turn your creation into a full-fledged garage, you should install electricity into it. If your neighbors also do not have electricity supply, then you can negotiate with them to “chip in” money to install an electric cable.

This procedure is not exactly cheap, and if your neighbors have electricity, then simply install electricity to your place, of course, notifying the administration. The premises will not be approved without a meter, so you need to take care of the meter during the connection process.

More specifically about the choice of materials

This is the material that car houses are now made from:

Pros: When assembled reliably, the design is quite durable.

Minuses: We need lifting equipment, whose hourly wage depends on the customer’s intelligence.

1. Brick frame. This is a beautiful, expensive and durable material. Usually, it is customary to purchase broken bricks or low-grade material for garages. Well, for a private house, where everything should be brand new, they buy an additional type of facing brick.

Buildings located separately require additional insulation. Therefore, the wall will have at least 2 bricks (25 cm in thickness or more).

The difficulty is as follows: need a strong foundation. It is under the brick wall that a monolith with reinforced mesh is poured.

Pros: no need for interior decoration. The original look is already a modern classic.

1. and expanded clay blocks. Latest materials on cement based, better than brick. It's not just about the price. After all, according to their characteristics, they retain heat perfectly. The construction process itself does not take much time. Why is that? Both types of building materials are large in size and relatively light in weight.

The design feature is only reinforced belt, which is essential for the base of any garage roof.

It's easier with the foundation: a shallow tape type is sufficient. Which blocks to choose specifically is best decided at the construction site.

Pros: not inferior to brick, much lighter total weight, consumables with low costs. It doesn't take much effort.

An exception to the rule is fire retardant impregnation. Will give fire-resistant properties to any wood. And if the construction is planned to be multifunctional (there is also a storage room, workshop or even a bathhouse next to the garage), then treated wood is best suited. On the plot or in the country - that’s it.

1. Profile pipe and plastic panels. These are materials for express construction. Applicable here too. A garage made from sandwich panels and a profile pipe will be very cheap in price, but it can be assembled in less than a day. The longest time to tinker is with the base - the concrete platform under regular box for a car (it’s faster to bring and lay a regular old concrete slab or several). Using modern inexpensive materials, car owners receive unheated containers for their personal vehicles.

But everything can be solved, and such a structure can be easily insulated with mineral wool, and the interior of the garage will be created asbestos cement sheets or OSB (foam based).

The disadvantages are the following: needed welding machine and experience working with it.

Pros: there are many ready-made ones for sale plastic structures, which can be delivered to the site or assembled by installers.

1. Metal carcass. We're talking about sheet steel. Without experience in welding work, a garage cannot be completed by yourself, but a good friend will do everything beautifully for a modest price. For your information, an iron car box is much cheaper than a brick or concrete one.

Minuses: thermal conductivity of metal. Without insulation and heating devices it is impossible to create comfortable conditions even for a car.

Budget insulation

If you are going to be in the garage long time, then insulate the walls with glass wool and surround it with chipboard sheets, and also install a stove, making a hole in the ceiling for the pipe in advance.

This approach only applies to options made of refractory materials. Wood and plastic are separate situation, and such materials need to be insulated in several stages.

For example, it is not advisable to sheathe the inside of a tree (timber or timber) with glass wool. Natural material To build a garage, he likes clay and less toxic insulation materials. It's inexpensive to cover with the same board.

For plastic panels, special sheets with a front part treated with stainless steel are sold.

Let's walk on the roof

In other words, on the roof. There are two types:

Both options are the most budget-friendly types, although even in a garage it is possible to come up with something unusual (a dovecote, a guard box and much more).

1. A concrete slab is ideal for the base at all times. It is placed on the walls at a slight angle, otherwise there will be no water during the off-season.

During the installation process there are always joints between the slabs; it is easy to coat them with cement mortar and then foam them from the inside.

On the outside, several layers of roofing material, overlapping with a torch, will suffice.

Pros: compared to a gable roof it is 20 percent more profitable.

1. The following materials are used: timber, empty concrete slabs (voids). For the inside of the ceiling, plywood or lining is sufficient. A 4 cm thick board is enough for the rafter system. The cheapest way to make a lathing is from unedged boards with the wane removed. Nothing better has been invented for roofing than asbestos-cement slate sheets.

Pros: ceiling insulation. It’s easy to fill the top of a garage with sawdust, slag, and earth.

Results of construction and selection of materials

Which garage is better to build, of course, is not for us to decide. But the calculations are as follows:

1. Most quick option for garage- This is a sandwich panel with insulation.
2. Cheap, easy and practical– foam blocks with reinforcement under the roof.
3. Acceptable and heavy, but aesthetically pleasing- This is a structure made from treated wood.
4. Expensive, long, but for life– a brick garage with a thick wall and a concrete floor.
5. Prefabricated options, like already assembled boxes, are not suitable everywhere, because they have a minimum of reliability.

The garage will be thought out in great detail, if possible without adapting to the materials available from the main construction site.

Important! Let the frame be made of even the oldest, ugly, but serviceable brick. This approach specifically to protecting a private home has helped more than one family out in the event of a fire.

Budget garage made from scrap materials

The video below has received a record number of views in its topic. Not surprising. The author shows how to build a garage from pallets. The construction took 2 months; scrap materials were used for construction.

Before you start construction and avoid making serious mistakes, it is very important to create a garage project. In the project, I will be able to determine and calculate the following basic elements of the garage: first of all, these are the planned overall dimensions, then the choice wall material, and depending on this and the properties of the soil - the type and shape of the foundation. Now it remains to decide on the types of floors, rafter system and roof angle, and decide on the type of floor to be poured.

Even before starting work on the project, it is important to decide the question - what to build a garage from? What to make garage walls from - I chose foam concrete blocks, since there was a production facility near the construction site and I save on delivery and also benefit in the speed of construction with my own hands using large blocks. The foundation I chose was monolithic, reinforced, tape in the form of an inverted letter T. After the walls of the garage, a reinforced monolithic belt of concrete is made on which the mauerlat made of timber will be attached. The rafter system and wooden beams will be made of 50 by 150 mm timber. The roof will be covered with metal tiles.

How to build a garage with your own hands? After the garage project was completed, this issue became much easier for me, since it took into account everything technical aspects construction and all I have to do is put all my desire, time and physical strength into realizing the idea.

DIY garage foundation. Foundation construction.

Let me make a reservation right away: I will be pouring the foundation of the garage with my own hands. What will I need for this: the tools I will need are a concrete mixer, shovels, a hammer, a screwdriver, buckets. The materials used are mainly reinforcement, crushed stone, water, sand and materials for the manufacture of formwork.

The article, which you can go to a little lower, describes the process of building my garage foundation and walls. In this article you can see how to make a garage foundation with your own hands based on this project.

I chose the type of foundation and its depth depending on the factors below:

The groundwater level must be below the depth of the garage foundation. In my situation, the groundwater level during the period of maximum value in spring was 1.9 meters. If we subtract 20%, we get a depth of no more than one and a half meters.

The soil at the construction site consists of sandy loam and is not the best option for building a garage foundation, but by using an expanded base and thereby increasing the support area, I eliminate this factor.

And the last, but probably the most important factor- the depth of soil freezing at the construction point is 900 mm. In this regard, the laying depth was chosen to be 700 mm - that is, I get a shallow monolithic strip foundation.

How my foundation is tripled in section can be seen in the lower drawing. In the end, I chose the right option with the minimum amount of reinforcement.

Now that I have decided on the structure of the foundation, let’s proceed to choosing the dimensions of the trenches to be developed for the foundation, namely, to laying out the foundation. An important point when planning the foundation of a garage is the detail and location of the holes designed for the communication sleeves when pouring the foundation, otherwise you will have to spend a significant amount of effort working with a hammer drill.

After pouring the garage foundation with my own hands, a pit was made for pumping equipment and the floor was poured over the ground, but I did not show this in these drawings since I did not initially plan it.

You can read about building a garage foundation and foam concrete walls with your own hands in the following article...

Drawing of a garage with block layout. Wall made of foam blocks. Laying foam blocks.

In order to save and reduce the amount of materials more than necessary when building a garage from foam blocks, a drawing of the walls and gables of the garage with a row layout of the blocks was made. This allowed me to count exact amount plus 3-4 blocks and don’t buy too much.

Garage doors designed and welded by yourself.

In order to make a garage door with your own hands, you need a drawing on which we will calculate the amount of material required and determine the size of blanks made from steel sheets, which are easiest to cut directly in production. The bottom drawing shows the height and width of the garage door.

The top drawing of the garage shows that I have already decided on the overall dimensions of the gate, or rather the total height of the gate along with the frame is 2350 mm and the width is 2890 mm.

Now my list of materials needed to make a garage door with your own hands based on the garage door project:

The garage door frame requires 10 meters or more of channel. My neighbor had the channel in the quantity I needed. summer cottage and was sold to me for a purely symbolic price.

Now I’m calculating the 50th angle that will be used to make the garage door frame, taking into account two internal lintels for each leaf. With a small margin, I get a length of 20 meters.

And the last thing I need is the cutting and number of sheets of steel. I will use sheet steel with a thickness of 2 mm and a sheet size of one by two meters. Using the garage door drawing, we cut sheets with dimensions and do all the main cutting at a metal warehouse.

As I wrote above, a garage door frame welded from a channel was installed and, at the same time, wall blocks were laid. To connect these two elements, after laying each row, two half-meter lengths of 8-diameter reinforcement were welded to the box.

After the garage door frame is finally secured in the upper part with a poured monolithic belt, I proceed to self-installation garage door frames. By default, the gate frame is installed strictly level in all directions.

The leaves are made separately, the frame is cut according to the drawing, minus one centimeter to ensure a technological gap of half a centimeter between the leaves and the garage door frame, as well as between the gate leaves.

I did it quite simply; the finished frame of each leaf was installed in the box in its working position using strips half a millimeter thick and temporarily secured to each other and the frame by welding in several places. Now we weld our sheet steel blanks to the frame, fixing them with clamps, with inside We also perform seam welding. After this, we weld the hinges and, if necessary, weld the amplifiers and remove the temporary welding deposits.

All the gates are ready, all that remains is to make the latches on the doors at the top and bottom inside the garage and they can be closed.

On the outside of the garage door, a metal profile is installed with screws in the color of the planned roof, and on the inside, insulation is first inserted and also covered with a metal profile.

This photo of a garage door shows an intermediate stage without an installed metal profile.

DIY reinforced monolithic garage belt.

Having finished laying the walls, I need to stiffen the structure of my garage, and this can be done by pouring a monolithic belt with my own hands. A reinforced monolithic belt will act as lintels over the window and door and also connect the walls and garage door frame. In addition, the reinforced monolithic belt of the garage acts as a building element on which the Mauerlat of the rafter system is installed and attached.

The monolithic belt is performed as follows. Along the entire perimeter of the walls, I hammered pieces of reinforcement 40 centimeters long into foam blocks and let them out 14 centimeters to connect the wall blocks and the monolithic belt. Formwork is installed and secured to the walls of the garage, a reinforcement cage and wire rod 6 mm thick are installed in the middle with outlets in the upper part of sections approximately half a meter long. These releases are necessary for attaching the Mauerlat. More details about the construction and pouring of my reinforced monolithic garage belt can be read in a separate article, which can be found in the “Garage Construction” section of the top menu.

The appearance of the planned monolithic belt in relation to the other elements can be seen in the lower drawing.

Attaching the Mauerlat to the wall (monolithic belt).

As mentioned above, the Mauerlat is attached to the monolithic belt, through the waterproofing, using an extended wire. These releases grip the mauerlat beam on both sides and are twisted from above with a crowbar. I marked these places where the wire comes out of the monolithic belt on the rafter calculation drawing below, so that the wire does not get on the elements of the rafter system.

When creating this garage project, I did not take into account one important point that came to my mind after installing the roof. I designed the Mauerlat along the entire perimeter of the garage walls, not taking into account the fact that after the armored belt the pediment should be continued with blocks. The end sections of the Mauerlat had to be removed, and this led to the loss of precious time.

Drawing and calculation of the rafter system.

As in most cases, I need a drawing of the garage truss system to calculate the amount of materials needed for construction, and also serves as instructions and a plan for assembling the truss system. On the bottom plan of the garage rafter system, all the main elements are brought together, starting with the mauerlat, ceiling beams, rafter legs, gable overhang and wind board to the fastening elements of this entire structure. The roof plan, or rather a drawing of the location of the rafter system elements, can be seen below.

I hope that I will be able to make a rafter system with my own hands without resorting to outside help, and how it turned out for me can be seen through the top menu in the “Garage Construction” category.

Attaching the rafter system and beam ceiling of the garage to the Mauerlat.

At first, I planned to install hanging rafter legs according to the tooth-tooth principle, but creating a garage project helped me visualize this solution and I had to abandon this scheme for attaching the rafters, since the edge of the roof overhang is as low as possible to the ground, and for a low garage it looks disproportionate. Instead of attaching the rafter legs to the mauerlat in the teeth, I chose the option of mounting the rafter legs on wooden floor beams. Basically, I received a roof truss, which I thought would be more convenient to install myself.

It is most convenient to assemble roof trusses at the bottom on a flat surface, for example on a concrete platform. All dimensions are on the rafter system drawing and you can begin assembling the trusses. According to calculations, I got eight such elements. Having assembled one truss using perforated plates and screws, we use this ready-made template to make the remaining trusses. The lower part of the truss will act as a beam floor ceiling. After all the trusses have been manufactured, tie rods are installed to reduce horizontal wind loads.

Was found on the Internet small house With gable roof, with an approximate pitch of rafters like mine, and from there the cross-section of the rafter legs and floor beams was taken. The applied section is 150 by 50 mm.

Rafter installation plan. How to install roof trusses on a garage?

I have an installed Mauerlat and ready-made trusses that need to be installed. I install the roof trusses myself.

Let's look at the sequence of installation of roof trusses. The weight of the truss turned out to be insignificant and I was able to lift them to the assembly site without much difficulty. The first thing I started with was to make, in accordance with the garage design, grooves corresponding to the pitch of the rafter legs, about two centimeters deep on the Mauerlat, into which the rafter trusses are installed. First of all, I installed the outer gable trusses into the grooves, checking the horizontal installation and stretched the marking rope between their peaks. With Mauerlat rafter part It is fastened with reinforced perforated corners and a large turnkey screw, after first drilling a hole in the wood that is smaller than the diameter of the screw. The trusses are also secured with temporary spacers until the sheathing is installed. The remaining trusses are installed in grooves and fastened along stretched marking ropes with temporary slats to each other.

All that remains is to fill the crate and our rafter system ready.

Roof plan from above. Calculation of roof area.

I need a roof plan to calculate the quantity roofing material and in my situation - metal tiles, for which I need to know the roof area. Since I don’t want to cut sheets of metal tiles lengthwise, I will have to select the roof area for standard sheets metal tiles. Knowing the useful width of the sheet is 110 cm with a length of one roof slope of 730 cm, I will need 7 sheets, and 14 for the entire roof. You can order any sheet length in production.

To determine the length of the sheet, you need to know the angle of the roof, which for me is thirty degrees. Thus, the estimated length of the sheet for my project was 2550 mm, but I ordered 5 cm more, and I could cut it to fit the finished configuration in the place under the ridge strip. According to the project, the area of ​​my roof was thirty-eight square meters.

DIY garage wiring diagram.

I will do all the wiring of the garage myself. For this purpose, grooves will be made in the aerated concrete. This wiring diagram will help me calculate the amount of cable, light sockets and switches.

For electrical wiring of the garage I use VVGng wire, for the main branches the cross-section of the copper core is 2.5 mm and for lighting 1.5 mm.

Let's take a closer look at what is shown on the garage electrical panel diagram. Installed at the entrance introductory machine C40 to the meter, to ensure the possibility of replacing the meter. Then comes the counter itself. Devices are installed after it protective shutdown 32A with a cut-off current of 30 mA and 25A with a cut-off current of 30 mA for input into the house and for the needs of the garage, respectively. Next are slot machines for smaller branches of various denominations. You can also see the grounding bar from which the grounding wire goes to the circuit near the garage.

I will write about the installation of a grounding loop near the garage in a future article.

This article is detailed instructions on how to build an unheated permanent garage for 1 car. Construction will conditionally be carried out next to the cottage, in a fenced area.

To save costs, we will choose reinforced sand-lime brick with a thickness of 250 mm as a wall material.

Choosing the size of the future garage

When starting to build a garage with your own hands, you should decide on the size of the future building. Usually the footage is determined in relation to the dimensions of the standard passenger car- 1.7-2 m by 3-4 m. At the same time, you should also take into account the reserve of space so that you can easily walk around the car from all sides, and the footage should allow the arrangement of racks on which spare parts, wheels and cans will be stored. That is, taking into account the above needs, optimal size The garage will be 4x6 meters and its height will be 2.5 m. The project takes into account the possibility of changing a car without rebuilding the garage for this. In one of the side walls we will design two meter-wide windows to provide natural light.

Schematically, a self-built garage will look like this:

Determining the location for construction

When choosing a place where your future garage will be located, you should pay attention to some important points, which will help simplify operation and protect you from problems with getting your car in and out, opening garage doors, etc.

The location must be chosen as close to the yard gate as possible. At the same time, try to leave 4-5 meters of distance between the garage and the gate, so that the car can simply be left in the yard, and so that the opening of the gate is not blocked upon arrival;

The path from the entrance gate to the garage should be straight, without turns. This will make it easier to park in the yard and enter the car into the garage;

The distance from the garage to the home should ideally be 5-7 meters so that you can quickly get to the porch of the house during rain or snowfall;

When planning to build a garage with your own hands, and when choosing a place for it, make sure that the future building is not located in a low area, otherwise it will drain rainwater, which will lead to dampness and corrosion on the metal parts of the car;

House communications (electricity networks, sewerage, gas pipelines) should not pass under the garage.

We present to your attention a general plan of the site with the optimal placement of the garage relative to the entrance gate to the yard and the cottage:

Garage foundation

Before you build a garage, you need to lay a high-quality foundation for it. In our case, we will consider a strip foundation with a strip width of 300 mm. Since the garage will be low, the load of the walls transferred to the foundation will also be small (about 1.5 tons per 1 linear meter). In order to economize Consumables, you can equip a shallow foundation (depth - 60 cm) on a sand and gravel cushion 30 cm thick. A cushion under the foundation is necessary to properly distribute the pressure of the garage on the ground and prevent heaving of the floor in cold weather.

This is what our foundation will look like in section:

The finished foundation should be 100 mm higher than the ground level, for which board formwork is laid. The sequence of work on arranging the foundation for a garage built by yourself is as follows:

The selected area is cleared of bushes, debris and other foreign objects;

The future garage is measured according to the site, and its axes are taken to scale;

A trench with smooth walls, 300 mm wide, is dug (this soil will later be used as the formwork for the future foundation). A plastic film is fixed along the garage walls to prevent water from leaking out of the concrete solution;

The sand and gravel preparation is laid in layers: every 100 mm is compacted and watered;

The foundation is concreted. For this purpose, concrete of classes B15-B20 is used, which should be compacted by vibration;

When the concrete strength reaches 70%, waterproofing can be laid, consisting of 2 layers of roofing material (the entire perimeter of the foundation is covered).

Laying garage walls

If you decide to build a permanent garage with your own hands, take the laying of walls especially seriously, which is the most important stage of construction. As already mentioned, the walls of our garage are built from reinforced sand-lime bricks 250 mm thick (one brick laying). We will choose the brand of brick M-100, and we will lay it on a cement-sand mortar M-75.

To reinforce the walls we use wire mesh of class VR-1, with a diameter of 3-5 mm (cell 50x50 mm). Reinforcement is necessary not only to give strength to the brickwork, but also to protect the garage from burglars.

It is better to lay out the first 4-5 rows of masonry from clay bricks, thus creating a reliable and durable base for the future garage. One square meter of a wall one brick thick will require 100 bricks and 75 liters of mortar.

Experts recommend inviting a professional mason for this stage of work, if you have such an opportunity. Professional masonry guarantees that no cracks will appear inside it in the future, and the walls themselves will be strictly vertical and laid in accordance with the dimensions of the garage according to the project.

If you still decide to completely build a garage yourself, be sure to use these tips:

The seams of the masonry must be tied, for which the brick will need to be cut in half in some places;

Keep the joint width to 10-12 mm;

When the foundation is ready, a leveling layer of mortar will need to be laid around its perimeter so that the brick can be easily laid vertically. First, to do this, you should strengthen the slats on both sides of the foundation in a strictly horizontal position - these slats will serve as formwork. The horizontal position of the slats is checked using a level. Then the solution is poured between the slats and carefully leveled.

After this, in each of the four corners of the garage you need to install so-called “orders” - vertical wooden slats with divisions marked every 77 mm showing the height of each course of brick. A thread is stretched between the rows to check horizontality. brickwork.

The laying itself must begin from the corners of the garage, lining up 10 corners - thus, at each of the corners you will receive a “beacon” that will be easier to navigate.

Each brick must be moistened with water before laying, which will ensure better adhesion of the brick to the mortar;

Try to pay attention to the external beauty and neatness of the external seams facing the facade - it is better to lay masonry here with jointing;

The top of the side walls assumes a slope (along facade B in the figure), so that as a result the roof is located under the slope, from which rainwater will easily drain. The difference between the extreme points is 300 mm;

You should also leave nests for laying roof beams. The size of these nests should be 200x200x150 mm, and their pitch should be 1 meter;

To cover window and entrance bays, you need to use a factory-made reinforced concrete lintel or a metal lintel made of two corners measuring 100x100x7 mm;

To check the verticality and horizontality of the walls, use a level and plumb line;

Create a hole in the back wall of the garage for natural ventilation. The hole should be covered with a louvered grille, and its size should be about 200x200 mm.

Garage floor and blind area

Every car owner who has asked the question “how to build a garage” should take care of the quality of the building’s floor. The garage floor must easily withstand the load from the wheels of the car, without settling or cracking. As mentioned above, the floor level should be 100 mm above ground level. Most often, the floor in garages is made of cement or concrete. We will consider installing a floor made of B-15 concrete with fine aggregate, 150 mm thick. Concrete is reinforced with A-1 reinforcement with a diameter of 6 mm; reinforcement pitch - 200x200 mm. The garage floor should slope slightly towards the door to allow water to drain away.

Before pouring the floor, you should compact the soil and lay a 200 mm thick crushed stone cushion over it, the bottom layer of which is best compacted into the soil. To ensure that the floor is separated from the walls and lies freely on the ground, foam plastic 50 mm thick is laid around the perimeter of the walls. Then a polyethylene film is laid, and a reinforcing mesh is placed on it with a preserved protective layer of at least 40 mm. After this, concrete is placed on the grid and vibrated. After 5-7 days, when the concrete has set, it is necessary to make a cement-sand screed 50 mm thick to level the floor surface.

Along the entire perimeter of the garage outside a concrete blind area is made so that rainwater does not spoil the foundation. Sufficient width of the blind area is 500-700 mm. It is made of B-7.5 concrete laid on a sand bed. A ramp is equipped on the facade with a gate - an inclined platform for convenient entry into the garage of cars, wheelchairs and baby strollers. The width of the ramp, depending on the general terrain, can range from 500 to 1200 mm.

We install a garage roof

The most economical option for arranging the roof would be wooden beams with a section of 150x100 mm (beam pitch - 1 meter) and profiled sheets. Common beam materials are spruce, pine or larch, and a garage beam roof looks like this:

Beams 4.3 meters long are laid in nests left in advance during laying. All beams rest on the walls 150 mm at each end.

The ends of the beams are wrapped with roofing felt or roofing felt so that moisture from the brickwork does not spoil the beam and cause rotting. The ends of the beams are not covered with roofing paper. After installation, the distance between the wall and the beam is sealed with a cement mortar with fine crushed stone. It is necessary to leave a space of about 50 mm between the ends of the beams and the walls.

Roofing felt is laid along the slope of the garage roof (the slope, as mentioned above, is arranged using different levels of masonry with a difference of 4 rows of bricks). Sheets of roofing felt are fused one on top of the other using a burner (the overlap of the sheets is 10-20 cm). Steel profiled sheets are laid on top, and the direction of the “waves” should go along the longer wall of the garage. The sheets are nailed down, and in the places where they are joined, an overlap of 2-3 “waves” in width must be made.

At the end of the work, make canopies (outlets) from corrugated sheeting that extend beyond the plane of the wall by 20-30 cm, which will help protect the garage walls from precipitation.

Window units and garage doors

To equip window and door openings with high-quality windows and gates, it is better to contact the appropriate companies. Measure your openings and contact several garage door and window installation companies in your area to compare rates. Be sure to discuss with the contractor the technology for installing garage doors - whether you will need to leave the mortgages, or whether they will be fastened in place. In addition, get advice on choosing a lock - mortise, overhead or padlock.

Garage finishing and finishing touches

In order for a brick wall to be better protected, it is necessary to carry out Finishing work. The garage walls are plastered along a notch or chain-link mesh with cement-sand mortar. Plaster will level the surface of the walls and protect the brick from destructive mechanical influences.

As for the racks and shelves that you will need to store canisters, spare parts and wheels, you can buy them at a hardware store or make them yourself from wood, having previously taken the necessary measurements. Of course, these works are not mandatory, but in the future convenient shelves and shelving will make your work in the garage much easier.

Power for various appliances and lighting is usually routed into the garage from the residence.

Read more materials about DIY construction and repairs in our constantly updated section

Where do car enthusiasts hide their iron horses from bad weather? The answer to this question is simple. Of course, to the garage! It’s dry and warm there, and the tools are at hand. But how to build it yourself, with minimal investment and maximum quality - a question of interest to many car owners. That's why it exists frame garage. Its construction does not cause difficulties and does not require excessive financial costs.

Advantages and disadvantages of a frame garage

First of all, it is necessary to note the advantages of a frame garage. The main advantage is its cost. Despite the fact that this construction does not require large financial expenses, good quality and durability are ensured. This is another one positive point. In this house the “iron horse” will be dry, cozy, and warm. Moreover, you can make a frame garage with your own hands.

Another undoubted advantage of this structure is that its construction does not require the involvement of additional forces, i.e. specialists.

You can handle the construction yourself. And the work won’t take much time. The only disadvantage of a frame-panel structure is that its main material is wood. And it, as you know, allows both moisture and cold to pass through. That's why frame house

For a car you need to be well waterproofed and insulated.

Photo gallery: frame-panel garages

Drawing up a detailed project: diagram, drawing, plan

Before starting work, you need to prepare some documents. Without them, construction will be very difficult. These are plans, drawings and explanatory notes. They outline all the calculations and measurements.

By preparing the necessary sketches, you will significantly reduce the time required to build a garage. But not every car enthusiast can boast of the skills of a draftsman and artist. Therefore, in order to thoroughly prepare, you need to either contact a professional or find information in an open source.

DIY frame garage: step-by-step instructions

All work takes place in several stages. Each of them is very important for obtaining a high-quality result, so none of them should be missed.

Selecting a site for construction

• This stage must be approached responsibly. Choosing the wrong garage location can lead to unpleasant consequences. To do this, you need to take into account several factors:
• when choosing a place, think carefully about the access to it with your car;
• you should not build a garage for a specific car (you need to think in advance how many cars you can fit in the built garage if you wish);

the site must be carefully prepared: remove all debris and vegetation, level and compact the ground.

How much material is needed

And the question immediately arises: which frame is better to choose? Metal or wood. Wooden ones will cost less, and they are also environmentally friendly and easy to process. Metal will be more expensive, but it is more durable. Everything here is individual, at the discretion of the owner.

In addition to the material for the frame, you should also buy a large number of beams for walls (section 100x100, 100x50 cm). They can be made of linden, aspen or larch.

You will need concrete mortar to pour the foundation. You also need to prepare:

These are the minimum tools to get started.

Photo gallery: metal and wooden frames for the garage

Do-it-yourself foundation construction technology

The foundation in this structure must be very strong. There are 3 options to choose from:

Step-by-step instructions for constructing a strip foundation

The process occurs in several stages:

During runtime last stage work must be guided by several rules:

Photo gallery: the process of creating a strip foundation

Floor installation

The area for the future floor should be covered with a thin layer of gravel. Place reinforcing mesh on top and pour concrete. When it hardens, lay down roofing material, lay down the beams and nail the flooring to them. This is how a simple wooden floor is made. But he can be different.

If the foundation was installed on piles, then the floor laying technology does not require backfilling with a layer of gravel. It is enough to simply lay wooden boards, which are then slightly strengthened.

At this stage you need to think and do inspection hole and a cellar if necessary.

Photo gallery: types of flooring

Bright garage floor made of PVC slabs Garage floor made of ceramic tiles Self-leveling floor in the garage
The concrete floor in the garage does not need to be covered. wooden planks, but just paint it Simple concrete floor without additional finishing Wooden floor - a budget option for garage

Construction of a frame made of metal or wood

This structure can be built on a metal or wooden frame. Let's consider both options.

Metal frame made of profile pipe

A metal frame is characterized by high strength: it is resistant to fire and mechanical damage, but is much more expensive than a wooden one.

The only thing that needs to work with it is someone who knows how to use a special tool, for example, a grinder, welding, or drill. In order to make a frame garage from a pipe with your own hands, you will need rolled metal or a bent metal profile for further cladding with standard steel or profiled sheets, respectively.

The lower part of the frame is attached to the foundation with anchors and welding. You can also use self-tapping screws, but such fastening will be less reliable. Next, you should install racks in the corners. Attach the profiles to the bottom of the frame and the anchors with the corners facing outward and weld them. Then you need to assemble the upper part of the “skeleton” and connect it to the supports. And finally, weld additional vertical posts and horizontal ribs around the perimeter.

It is imperative to take care of the profile above the place where the gate will be, otherwise installing garage doors will become problematic in the future.

The choice of roof is at the discretion of the owner. It can be single-pitched, double-pitched or flat.

The garage frame can also be purchased ready-made. This is much more profitable and the installation will be faster.

Advantages and disadvantages of a wooden frame house for a car A frame made of beams will cost less than a metal one. It is built using the same method: the lower part, vertical and intermediate posts, the top, etc. are built. But unlike metal frame

There is no need to skimp on material here. It is better to buy quality timber.

When working with wood, it is allowed to use self-tapping screws and nails (except for the junction of the foundation and the lower part of the frame, leave anchors here.). The gaps between the racks should be from 30 to 120 centimeters.

Sheathing and insulation Steel or profiled sheets will be useful for covering a metal frame. They are spot welded to vertical posts

, and when all the walls are closed, the joints of the sheets need to be processed by welding. The second cladding method can be used for both metal and wooden structure

. Self-tapping screws must be attached to the profile and screwed into the frame; be sure to secure them with washers. The sheets are laid out overlapping from top to bottom to prevent water from getting inside the garage structure. Izoplaat slabs are perfect for external cladding the buildings. One more good material For exterior finishing

It is imperative to insulate a frame garage, since low temperatures can harm the car. The materials for this will include mineral wool, glass wool, penoplex, expanded polystyrene, reflective thermal insulation and other materials. They come in rolls, tiles and sprayed. Each has its own installation technology and manufacturer’s recommendations.

Photo gallery: insulation options

Video: how to build a garage yourself in just 132 hours

A frame garage is not only one of the cheapest methods of construction, but also the fastest. You will be able to install it yourself, and when you have gatherings with friends, tell them that you did everything from the foundation to the roof yourself. It's truly a worthwhile investment.