How to enclose a stove in a sauna. Installation of a metal stove in a bathhouse

Electric stove in a finished ITS sauna.

The electric heater is the heart of the sauna. And a lot depends on what it is and how this “heart” works! For example:

Will the air temperature in the steam room reach the range you require?

Will the surrounding walls and ceiling of the sauna around the stove overheat;

What is the risk of the steamer getting burned on the heated parts of the electric heater...

And most importantly: unqualified installation of a sauna stove can cause a fire! Contact a professional ITS company. Our main recommendations for installing electrical equipment in a sauna are as follows:

1) The sauna heater must be connected to a stationary power supply.

2) For a certain steam room volume, an electric stove of the required power (from 3 kW and above) is selected. Small electric heaters (up to 4.5 kW) can operate on single-phase current; more powerful - only three-phase (3 × 220 V). You can determine the stove power required for your sauna using the empirically derived formula: 0.8-1.2 kW per 1 m 3 .

3) The operation of the electric furnace is regulated using a control panel, which can be either built into the furnace design or remotely located in the sauna dressing room. Installation of the remote control system must be done according to the attached instructions!

4) Consider in advance the possibility of connecting a sauna to an electric stove copper cable a certain section:

5) When installing an electric heater, you need to ensure that the distances between the stove and the sauna surfaces are no less than those recommended in its installation instructions - these distances are determined by the design features of the heater. You should also ensure that the floor on which the sauna stove stands is not covered with flammable materials. At a minimum, it is recommended to lay out the area of ​​the floor under the heater with ceramic tiles.

6) The distances between the protective fence of the electric furnace and the shelves, as well as other objects made of flammable materials, should be as large as possible - for each heater, on average, at least 7 cm.

7) it is necessary to rinse thoroughly in running water and place in the required quantity and order between and on top of the heating elements of the oven. It is forbidden to operate the electric oven without placing bath stones in it! This may damage the electric heater and cause a fire!

8) To illuminate the sauna, special “splash-proof” lamps are used that can withstand temperatures up to 140 °C. produced by ITS® are additional protection against splashing water and make the lighting of the steam room softer, scattering direct rays of light...

Air exchange in the sauna: fresh air enters through the ventilation hole behind the stove...

9) Proper ventilation should be provided in every sauna. The inlet should be located behind the stove at a height of approximately 5-10 cm from the floor. The air outlet hole is located on the wall of the sauna opposite to the stove, for example, in the lower part of the steam room.

The minimum indicators for ventilation and fresh air supply should be as follows:

Regulation of air flows in the steam room is possible using, for example, produced by ITS®.

By observing the above requirements for installing electrical equipment in a sauna, you will make your life calmer, safer and more comfortable. Highly qualified electricians from ITS are ready to help you with this. We are waiting for you in our !

Stove heating is considered a fire hazard, and therefore is allowed according to SNiP 41-01-2003 only in one-story baths when the number of seats (people) is no more than 25. The stove is dangerous primarily because wood burns in it. If the stove is used carelessly, burning logs may be dumped, sparks and flames may be ejected from the firebox door, or fire may be emitted in the event of emergency destruction of the stove walls.

The formation of cracks in brick and metal stoves, although an emergency, seems to be a common occurrence in everyday life. These cracks are especially dangerous in areas that are inaccessible to routine visual inspection, such as areas adjacent to wooden walls and ceilings. Even small cracks with a thickness of only 2-3 mm can be dangerous, and in brick kilns due to the fact that fluffy soot can accumulate in them: either resinous at the beginning of the fire in the chimneys, or dry in the chimney. Dry soot, but fresh, is more dangerous. A layer of soot more than 2-3 mm thick is already capable of igniting from sparks in flue gases. A smooth, dull hum suddenly appears in the chimneys, a smooth yellow glow without flashes appears in the cracks of the cleaning holes and valves, and a wide, blurry plume of smoke emerges from the chimney on the roof with the possible appearance of sparks and even flames. Soot combustion occurs in smoldering mode in much the same way as tissue paper smolderes - with a slow front that easily penetrates into all the nooks and crannies of the smoke system, including emergency cracks, burnouts and technological openings (doors, valves), also usually clogged with soot.

Heated surfaces of ovens can also pose a danger. In accordance with SNiP 41-01-2003, the maximum temperature of the furnace surface “should not exceed 120°C on a furnace area of ​​no more than 5% of the total surface area of ​​the furnace” (and on areas of more than 5% it can exceed 120°C?!). This inarticulateness has been living in SNiPs since 1975! In rooms with temporary occupancy, when installing protective screens, it is allowed to use ovens with a surface temperature above 120°C. Such norms are very vague and are perceived by summer residents simply as measures to prevent burns from touching. In particular, it is not explained what a screen is, what screen designs are permissible, and whether stoves with wall temperatures above 120°C are allowed in rooms where there are no people at all. At the same time, SNiP 41-01-2003 does not limit the temperature of cast iron flooring, doors and other stove appliances.

The state standard GOST 9817-95 is more specific, without any reservations it is established that the temperature of the outer surfaces of the apparatus (domestic, solid fuel-burning) should not exceed 120°C on the front and rear walls and 80°C on the side walls, and the floor temperature is below the device should not exceed 50°C. At the same time, the standard, providing for the availability hob, does not stipulate the temperature requirements for it in any way.

Norms fire safety NPB 252-98, also recognizing a temperature of 120°C as the maximum for the external surfaces of stoves, nevertheless allows in rooms with temporary occupancy of people (up to 2 hours a day) a temperature of the external surfaces of stoves up to 320°C. The temperature of cast iron flooring and similar parts of devices is not limited. The temperature of the firebox door should be no more than 320°C. The temperature of the contact points of heated furnace elements with flammable materials should be no more than 50°C.

Typical spontaneous combustion (spontaneous combustion) temperature of wood, the main source fire danger in baths, is 330-470°C. Therefore, the above regulatory requirements are an attempt to ensure, supposedly, the fire safety of the stove during its normal operation, although everyone is well aware that there are no fireproof stoves at all, especially if the danger of ignition remains on hot cast iron (cooking, heating, technological) floorings.

Fire safety is a multi-level concept. The first level is, of course, the safety noted above during normal operation. As a second level, you can take insurance against possible emergency situations, and fire hazardous. For example, if the firebox of a metal stove burns out, the metal outer casing (protective screen) of the stove should ensure safety. And if the furnace masonry collapses and bricks begin to fall out of the walls of the firebox, then the metal cover (case) of the furnace must be saved before repair. And such cases have long been widely used in the 17th century. Western Europe, and then in urban estates in Russia. Under Soviet conditions, it was forbidden to convert stoves laid in a quarter of a brick and without a metal cover to gas. If burning firewood or firebrands fall out of the firebox, then a metal sheet on the floor can save you from a fire, although it most likely should be classified as the next third level of safety - to prevent a fire in the room in the event of a possible fire hazardous accident of the stove, as well as in the event of careless or inappropriate operation of the stove, including a faulty or improperly installed one. Fire prevention is achieved by protecting the building envelope (floors, walls, ceilings) with non-flammable, low thermal conductivity and heat-resistant materials (fireproof). The fourth level is ensuring the possibility of evacuation and rescue of people in case of fire, restrictions material damage. Finally, the last, fifth level is ensuring the ability to effectively extinguish a fire and preserve the building. The specified gradation is arbitrary. Each summer resident has the right to prioritize the list of requirements of SNiP 21-01-97 “Fire safety of buildings and structures” in relation to his bathhouse. In any case, the actions of the summer resident must contain the meaning of the normative rules, since they are drawn up so declaratively.

It is clear that the concept of fire resistance of structures discussed in the previous section refers primarily to the fourth and fifth levels of fire safety. As for the first three safety levels, they seem to be the most difficult for engineering analysis and must first of all be provided by the developer (manufacturer) of the furnace in accordance with state regulations regulatory requirements, and the standards allow the developer of factory products to install own rules installation of the stove indoors in accordance with the technical quality of the product. However, the reality of rural and country life is such that the bulk of stoves are built independently, often according to their own understanding, and are sometimes in such a depressing state that the main concern is the integrity of the stove and pipe. Under these conditions, keeping the furnace away from combustible walls seems to be a priority. Therefore, it is quite natural that, methodologically, SNiP 41-01-2003 places the main emphasis on the third level of safety - on preventing fire in the event of emergency destruction of the furnace. This can be solved with the help of setbacks and furnace cuttings, as well as fire protection of the walls.

A setback (setback, gap, air gap) from the fire to foreign combustible objects is the oldest method of protecting the habitat from the flammable effect of fires. It is possible to normalize the amount of offset for fires only very conditionally, since everything depends on the type of fuel, its quantity in the fire, the presence of wind, etc. Thus, in bathhouse life it was believed that the distance from an open flame to log walls was equal to one fathom (1 fathom = 2 arshins = 2.13 m), quite enough in the conditions of smoking baths, otherwise the fire should have been “planted” in a hole in the ground or in a depression in a pile of cobblestones. In warehousing, the conventionally safe distance between stacks of lumber is 12 meters. In forest areas, in order to prevent the spread of fires, the width of clearings is increased to 20 meters or more.

The greatest fire hazard of all sauna stoves is posed by unshielded metal stoves (“potbelly stoves”), which can become “red-hot” or even “white-hot” (white-hot). The US National Fire Protection Association standard NFPA No. 211-1984 provides for a setback of 1 yd = 0.91 m for unshielded solid fuel stoves from combustible surfaces. Actual measurements of temperatures developed on the surface of a wooden wall facing an unshielded metal stove give the following typical values: at a distance of 100 cm from a hot stove 80°C, at a distance of 50 cm - 110°C, and at a distance of 25 cm - 150°C (SI. Taubkin. Fires and explosions, features of their examination, M.: VNIIPO, 1999 G.). In the manual on military engineering in the USSR (1966), instructions were given: for fire safety purposes, stoves and chimneys (standard or made from scrap materials, including metal) should be placed no closer than 25 cm from flammable parts of dugouts or other field residential or commercial buildings. In dacha conditions, a retreat of 25 cm is too small (although such a recommendation, unfortunately without explanation, is found in popular literature). In accordance with SNiP III-B.3-55, the distance from metal furnaces (without lining) to adjacent (this unsuccessful, but preserved term in SNiP 41-01-2003 means “next to each other”) combustible structures was determined to be 100 cm to the walls , not protected from fire, and equal to 70 cm to walls protected from fire (Fig. 165). For metal pipes, the setback was determined to be 50 cm in size from combustible walls protected from fire and 70 cm in size from unprotected combustible walls (recall that the terms “flammable” and “combustible” were subsequently replaced in SNiP 01/21/97 by the terms “flammable” and "flammable").

In subsequent editions of the stove heating design standards (SNiP II-33-75, SNiP 2.04.05-86, SNiP 2.04.05-91 and SNiP 41-01-2003), the above requirements for the size of deviations disappeared without a trace, apparently on the grounds that SNiP II-33-75 determined that for stove heating only such stoves should be provided whose surface temperature should not exceed 120 ° C (except for cast iron flooring, doors and other stove appliances). This means that unshielded stoves have become prohibited for design, but the trouble is that at the same time absolutely all metal stoves have remained without design standards to this day. The only thing that SNiP 41-01-2003 normalizes for metal stoves is the distance between the top of a metal stove with a non-insulated ceiling (stove, hob) and an unprotected ceiling of 1200 mm (previously in SNiP II-33-75 this distance was 1000 mm). To clarify the situation, SNiP 2.04.05-91 and SNiP 41-01-2003 determine that the deviation values ​​must be established by the manufacturer of metal furnaces. However, it is clear that in conditions of market relations, rarely does any plant want to take on the responsibility and costs of determining its own standards (especially in conditions when the State Construction Committee of the Russian Federation and the Fire Supervision Authority have withdrawn themselves from standardization). Therefore, as a rule, technical factory documentation is limited to requirements such as that “the furnace must be installed at a distance of at least 500 mm to combustible structures in accordance with GOST 9817-95 in compliance with current fire safety standards NPB 252-98” (although GOST 9817-95 applies only to devices with a water circuit, and fire safety standards NPB 252-98 do not contain any requirements for deviations). Under these conditions, individual manufacturers of metal furnaces have essentially the only legally flawless option for installing any furnace - close to a fire-resistant wall (see above). Unfortunately, in most cases, a summer resident does not have such fire-resistant walls in his bathhouse, and the setback of the stove from non-flammable fireproof (but not fire-resistant) walls is also not defined by the standards. So, the summer resident has to rely not on official norms and rules, but on engineering considerations.

: 1 - unshielded wall of the firebox, 2 - shielded wall of the firebox, 3 - combustible wall, 4 - protection of the wall or ceiling (steel sheet 0.55 mm over a layer of asbestos cardboard 10 mm), 5 - combustible ceiling, 6 - metal sheet cutting without protection of the end of the ceiling opening, 7 - metal sheet cutting with protection of the end of the ceiling opening according to the method pos. 4, 8 - lower part of the welded steel groove, 9 - upper part of the welded steel groove, 10 - insulation. Dimensions without stars correspond to current standards SNiP 41-01-2003. Dimensions with stars correspond to the canceled SNiP III-B standards. 3-55 and SNiP II-33-75.

: 1 - shielded stove, 2 - unscreened chimney, turning at the ceiling into a screened and insulated one, 3 - steel stove screens, 4 - combustible wall, 5 - steel wall screens, 6 - combustible ceiling, 7 - pipe screen, 8 - insulating layer of basalt wool, 9 - non-flammable sealant (insulation), 10 - technological air gap, playing the role of a heater gap (indentation), 11 - ventilation holes (undesirable for steam baths).

As an example, we give recommendations from Finnish companies for installing shielded metal furnaces (Fig. 166). The essence of the solution is that in order to reduce the surface temperature of the furnace and thereby reduce the flow of radiant heat, the furnace is screened in the usual way using metal or brick screens. These screens simultaneously play the role of fire-retarding surfaces, preventing the creation of fire hazardous situations in the event of emergency destruction (burnout, cracking) of the firebox. Installation of these screens allows you to reduce the size of the setback from 1000 mm to 500 mm (even according to Russian standards). Further, to prevent a fire (ignition of a combustible wall in the event of a fire hazard due to the destruction of the firebox and screens), the surface of the combustible wall is screened with steel sheets, and one screen, spaced at least 30 mm from the wall, reduces the size of the indentation to 250 mm and two screen - up to 125 mm. This size of deviation is already unprecedented for Russian conditions: even factory-made metal gas boilers with cold water-cooled walls are usually located, according to factory technical documentation, at a distance of no closer than 100 mm from fireproof walls (but not fireproof ones). To explain their standards, the Finns claim that the screen protection of the walls does not allow them to heat up above 50°C under normal operating conditions. But the concept of normal operation in Russian conditions is very vague: due to careless installation and careless handling, sheets of screen protection can be deformed, shifted, etc. (for example, when the frame of a building wobbles, including seasonally, during shrinkage, when trying to store in metal, supposedly very cold, dry gaps, firewood, wood chips, paper), and the screens themselves can be used for drying linen or clothes. Narrow gaps (hard to reach for a brush) can also become a source of fire hazard due to the natural accumulation of dust, wood flour, and sawdust. Therefore, the Finns, moving in a generally very promising direction of screen protection, quite wisely introduce factory-made specialized hollow air-blown metal double panels (“light insulation protective casings”) that are resistant to temperature fluctuations, mechanical compressive loads and protected from excessive penetration of flammable air suspensions. It is clear that in terms of thermal protection (but not in terms of thermal insulation), such hollow panels are more effective than conventional “sandwich” panels filled with heat-resistant basalt wool. At the same time, the “sandwich” principle is indispensable for insulation 8 (namely insulation, not protection from overheating) of chimneys 2, although the principle of a hollow panel is sometimes secretly present in Finnish-made shielded chimneys in the form of an air gap 10, maybe even blown 11 (Fig. 166).

The current Russian standards SNiP 41-01-2003 do not yet use the principle of screen protection of walls from fires. To protect combustible walls, it is prescribed to use plaster 25 mm thick over a metal mesh or a metal sheet over asbestos cardboard 8-10 mm thick (previously SNiP II-33-75 also allowed the use of construction (natural wool) felt in one and the same in the absence of asbestos cardboard on the ceiling in two layers, impregnated with clay mortar, followed by plaster over a metal mesh). Metal sheet protection against asbestos is very reliable mechanically even in Russian conditions, but the fire-retardant efficiency is not so high: the thermal conductivity of asbestos is at the level of the thermal conductivity of wood, and the fire resistance limit of plaster and steel against asbestos does not exceed EI15. Increasing the effectiveness of metal-asbestos protection can be achieved by installing an additional metal screen spaced from the metal sheet pressing the asbestos to the wall at a distance of 20-50 mm. Wavy ones look very good as a screen in baths. roofing sheets or corrugated sheeting that goes well with the lining. We also note that reducing offsets to sizes less than 250 mm in baths is inconvenient; it is also undesirable to close these offsets even on one side. It is advisable to insulate the floor in retreats, even open ones, with at least a metal sheet. Let us note in this regard that at all times in closed (closed at the ends) floors have always been protected with steel or brick, and according to current standards, a non-combustible floor in a closed retreat should be located 70 mm above the floor of the room.

In addition to the walls in the furnace unit, it is necessary to protect not only the walls, but also the floors and ceilings. Moreover, in bathhouses a particular danger is posed by the high temperature of the ceiling, which is quite high even during normal operation. In the case of powerful metal furnaces, the 1200 mm offset of the unprotected ceiling from the top of the furnace, provided for in SNiP 41-01-2003, seems insufficient. The ceiling above a metal stove must always be protected, including with metal screens, which on the ceiling can have a variety of shapes, providing both protection from radiant flows and deflecting hot air flows to the sides (item 11 in Fig. 165).

As for the floor, it is always directly adjacent to the stove, and it would seem that fire safety rules should categorize floors according to the degree of fire resistance. However, SNiP 41-01-2003 does not impose any restrictions on the design of floors and only provides for a setback from the fire in the stove (in the firebox, in the ash pan, in the smoke circulation, in the smoke duct) from the floor (Fig. 167):

The minimum distances from the floor level of flammable materials to the bottom of the ash pit are 140 mm, to the bottom of the gas circulation - 210 mm,

In the case of frame stoves, including those with legs, the floor made of flammable materials should be protected from fire by sheet steel on asbestos cardboard 10 mm thick, and the distance from the bottom of the stove to the floor should be at least 100 mm,

When constructing a ceiling or floor made of non-combustible material, the bottom of the ash pit and gas circuit can be located at floor level,

The floor of combustible materials in front of the stove under the combustion door should be protected with a metal sheet measuring 700x500 mm, placed with the long side along the stove, and the floor around the stove “at a distance of at least 150 mm exceeding the dimensions of the stove” (as amended by SNiP 41-01-2003 ), protected with a steel sheet on asbestos cardboard 8 mm thick.

Thus, you can focus on two sizes of indentation from the fire to the combustible floor: 210 mm of air or brick in the absence of floor protection and 100 mm in the presence of protection. Often the floor under a metal stove is protected with brickwork, but in low-heat-capacity baths it is advisable to use low-heat-conducting and low-heat-capacity materials such as foam concrete, expanded clay concrete, rigid basalt wool slabs and even Finnish hollow air-blown metal panels 10 instead of concrete slabs 9 (Fig. 167). Let us note in passing that air-blown gaps 11, which increase the heat-shielding properties of the plates, are permissible only in dry high-temperature saunas, where condensation of vapors between the plate and the floor is not observed.

: a - a layer of fireproof material A from the floor (or combustible structure) to the bottom of the ash pit (fuel pit, gas circuit); b - for frame (including metal) stoves with an air gap B while simultaneously protecting the floor with sheet steel on asbestos cardboard 10 mm thick; c - a concrete slab with a gap under it (Finnish recommendation); g - a lightweight pallet made of two parallel metal sheets with a gap between the pallet and the floor (Finnish recommendation). 1 - firebox of the stove, 2 - outer screen (casing) of the stove, 3 - combustible floor, 4 - steel sheet along the entire floor of the stove assembly, 5 - brickwork in two layers on the subfloor to the level of the finished floor, then continue laying another layer on a metal sheet inside the furnace to form a solid bottom (hearth) of the firebox, 6 - metal sheet on a layer of asbestos cardboard, 7 - a layer of asbestos cardboard 8 mm thick for walls and 10 mm for the floor, 8 - metal screen, 9 - concrete slab, 10 - a lightweight pallet made of two parallel steel sheets welded around the perimeter, 11 - an air gap between the slab or pallet and the combustible floor. Standardized dimensions, no less: A = 210 mm, B = 100 mm (SNiP 41.01-2003), C = 60 mm, D = 300 mm (recommendation of Finnish companies for their furnaces).

As for brick kilns, the rules for their installation in SNiP 41-01-2003 are developed in more detail. In methodological terms, the safe characteristic size of the retreat from the fire (in brick oven) to unprotected combustible walls is at least 500 mm, and protected - 380 mm. The same dimensions are accepted for cuttings near stoves and smoke ducts. Cuttings were born historically as local thickening of the walls of chimneys at the points of passage through the ceilings. Then, when the stove business developed so much that stoves began to be installed in wall openings, the gaps between the stove and the walls to the entire height of the stove and above began to be filled with brick, and this brickwork, which was not necessarily connected to the stove, also began to be called cutting. The furnace groove is a non-combustible part of the furnace that increases the thickness of the furnace wall at the point of contact with the combustible walls. We can say that the cutting is a bricked retreat. Since the modern cutting size is very large (500 mm), part of the cutting can be done by expanding the pipe with brick, and part with metal, and so that possible seasonal “festivities” do not lead to its damage. The summer resident must, in addition, provide for the settlement of the log (timber) structure and make the thickness of the pipe cut greater than the thickness of the ceiling (or the thickness of the wall, which can move).

Cuttings, of course, are also made for metal pipes, but not from brick, but from metal, a flexible material and therefore more reliable in conditions of movement of enclosing structures relative to the pipe. Cutting metal pipes is often done in bathhouse life as needed; there are dozens of specific technical solutions. The simplest cutting is a whole sheet of metal in the ceiling opening with a hole for a pipe in the middle. In this case, it is necessary to maintain a distance of 500 mm from the pipe to the combustible structures (most likely to the ceiling lining). A fireproof heat-resistant backfill (insulation) can be laid on top of a sheet of metal, and a second sheet of metal (can be split) with holes for passage can be laid on top of the upper surface of the ceiling chimney. Such a groove 6 (Fig. 165) can be supplemented with metal floor protection 7. Welded grooves 8 and 9 are more convenient, forming a sealed passage (channel) for repeated pipe reinstallation without affecting the insulation 10. Note that according to Russian standards, shielding and insulation metal pipe(Fig. 166) do not give the right to reduce the pipe cutting size to less than 380 mm, while Finnish recommendations give this opportunity for thin wooden floors with a thickness of less than 30 mm. Moreover, chimneys were previously prohibited from being adjacent to non-combustible metal load-bearing elements of the building, since the mechanical strength of the metal decreases at high temperatures. Indeed, in the event of a burnout of a pipe or an emergency blockage of the pipe head (for example, by a dead bird), the flue gases will be forced to escape through emergency cracks in the masonry or leaks in the pipe, heating adjacent structures (including sparks).

A summer resident installing a stove in his small, cramped bathhouse for the first time may have a lot of questions about providing effective protection against possible fires. Let us emphasize once again that safety rules are not developed for the normal functioning of the facility, but specifically for cases of unforeseen accidents of buildings or equipment. Therefore, in ordinary cases, it is better to simply play it safe and choose the size of the cuts and offset to the maximum (even to the detriment of comfort) with reliable protection of the walls. Behind the annoying silences of the official rules lies traditional Russian negligence, which is even more clearly manifested in the actual construction of bathhouses, replete with a myriad of violations: in almost any bathhouse you can find facts of non-compliance with the standardized sizes of cuts and deviations. The most dangerous (and, unfortunately, the most frequent) violations are observed when inserting metal stoves into combustible walls, especially in terms of compliance with height standards. Therefore, it is absolutely clear that if Russian standards are liberalized in Finnish style, then it is possible that summer residents will sometimes install metal shielded stoves close to wooden walls, if only for the simple reason that the outer walls of another shielded stove are completely cold (with a temperature no higher than 50 °C).

Proper installation of the stove in bath room requires the laying of its main elements at the stage of planning and designing the steam room of the bath. It is very difficult to build a full-fledged brick stove with a heater in any other way, and the result does not always meet expectations. Another thing is installing a metal stove in a bathhouse. This stove design is lighter and simpler; it can be installed in almost any steam room.

Does it make sense to install a metal stove?

It's no secret that the vast majority of home baths are heated with metal wood-burning or electric stoves. A professionally made stove of good quality, lined with a brick screen, has whole line advantages over the traditional construction method:

• This design in a bathhouse is installed faster, easier, and most importantly - much cheaper. In addition, for a small-sized steel box there are many more options for how to install the stove so that it is comfortable to use at any time of the year;
• To install a stove, you do not need to dismantle half of the bathhouse and spend a lot of money on rebuilding the floor and ceiling;
• The sealed steel or cast iron shell of the stove makes using the sauna much safer, since the possibility of carbon monoxide poisoning due to a cracked firebox wall is practically eliminated.

For your information! According to statistics, two thirds of fires in private households occur in bathhouses with wood-burning stone stoves.

Installing a stove in a bathhouse with your own hands is no more difficult than any other heating system. Even if there is no experience, but there is a desire, most of the work can be done, guided by the recommendations and instructions of the manufacturer. You can install a homemade wood-burning stove in a bathhouse in the same way, but only on condition that the firebox and all the main components have passed the fire test and have been heated in a full cycle at least 20 times.

Where and how to install a metal stove in a bathhouse

There are no particular problems in installing a stove with your own hands; it is enough to ensure that several conditions are met during installation:

• Provide maximum fire protection and safety precautions;
• Create optimal conditions for normal combustion of firewood in any weather and wind direction;
• Provide for the presence of supply and exhaust ventilation, which guarantees protection from the most dangerous enemy in the bathhouse - carbon monoxide;
• Install the stove so that the heat generated is used in the sauna in the most efficient way.

Advice! Before looking for a way to install a stove, you will need to solve two problems. ?First, find the optimal location of the chimney for the stove. The design of the chimney can greatly affect the operation of the stove itself and its efficiency. In addition, a steel chimney heats up to a very high temperature and often causes a fire in a bathhouse. Secondly, it is necessary to determine how it is most convenient to service the stove, where it is most convenient to install it, and, accordingly, come up with lining the steel body with a brick screen.

The bodies of steel and cast iron sauna stoves tend to heat up to a very high temperature, at which the concentration of air oxygen in the steam room atmosphere quickly drops. Therefore, it is imperative to install a screen around any metal firebox, preferably a brick one. Moreover, ordinary red brick, unlike metal screens, always plays the role of a heat accumulator; this solution allows you to level out the heat output and not have to run to the firebox every five minutes to load firewood, which is not very convenient, especially if the loading opening is facing the street or in the utility room of the bathhouse.

The most rational solution would be to install the stove in the wall of the steam room so that the body with the screen and the heater are inside the steam room of the bath, and the “face” with the doors combustion chamber and the ash pan opened into the dressing room or onto the street.

The last option is very convenient for summer country baths, especially if the design of the bathhouse is combined with a summer kitchen or terrace.

Selection of base for installing the furnace

After you have previously selected a place in the bathhouse where it is most convenient to install and maintain the stove, you need to make a small estimate of the weight of the future stove and determine the type of base or foundation for the building.

Existing SNiP standards set a limit on the weight of the structure; a stove with a heat-insulating layer, foundation, brick screen and chimney can be installed directly on reinforced wooden joists provided that total weight does not exceed 750 kg. The weight of the future sauna stove must be checked by calculation.

The weight of the steel or cast iron furnace body can be taken from the product passport. A typical steel structure of a stove with a remote firebox and a mesh for stones weighs about one hundred kilograms. Cast iron stove for a bathhouse like the one shown in the photo, it weighs about 200 kg.

In addition, on steel and cast iron options the furnace is supposed to install up to 100 kg of stones to produce steam. Eventually total weight a stove design for a bathhouse can easily reach 300 kg.

The chimney pipe is made of thin sheet steel; its weight together with the hot water tank rarely exceeds 30 kg.

The weight of a brick screen depends on its size. To lay half a brick on 1m2 of surface, you will need to use 53 pieces of solid single brick. Accordingly, for a screen with a total area of ​​2 m2, 106 pieces will be used. With one stone weighing 3.5 kg, the mass of the screen is 321 kg. In total, the total weight of the stove that is supposed to be installed in the bathhouse is 550-650 kg. This is less than the ceiling of 750 kg, but even with such a mass it is not always possible to install the stove on logs.

First of all, it is necessary to check the cross-sectional size of the joists and the method of their installation. To install a sauna stove weighing 650 kg on the floor, you will need to distribute the load across at least two beams with a cross-section of 70x100 mm. Otherwise, you will have to make a real foundation.

How to install a stove in a bathhouse according to science

After completing the calculations and selecting a location for the stove, the further installation procedure will include the following operations:

• Preparing the base area for the stove in the bathhouse;
• Arrangement of an opening in the wall, thermal insulation of the body and fire protection of the walls;
• At the final stage, you will need to install the chimney pipe.

Experts advise making a full-fledged foundation for the stove in two cases, if the construction of the bathhouse is not completed at the time of installation, and there is technical feasibility cast the base painlessly. In the second case, the stove can be installed on the floor of the bathhouse if the safety margin is at least 1.5 units.

Construction of a base for installing a furnace

The easiest way is to install the housing on a wooden bath floor. The vast majority of steel and cast iron sauna stoves have special supports that raise the firebox body above the floor level. To ensure the stability of the stove, a durable heat-protective cake will need to be installed in the base of the structure. First of all, using the hammered nails and floorboards, we find the location of the joist beams in the bathhouse.

Next, we mark the area relative to the joists so that it is possible to install a stove with uniform distribution loads on supports. Using an electric planer, we remove a 3-4 mm part of the surface of the floorboard to remove the protective coating and make it as rough as possible. We impregnate the wood with an antiseptic and fire retardant, which increases the wood's resistance to high temperatures.

On next stage The area on the floor must be covered with a coating of white clay, cement and liquid glass. Without waiting for the applied mixture to harden, place a thick sheet of metal on top of the coating. Next, a layer of mineral thermal insulation and a layer of brick are laid. For the bond, use ordinary masonry mortar for fireplaces from a ready-made cement-sand mixture. You can install a sauna stove.

To install a full-fledged foundation, you will need to remove the boards and dig a pit for casting a base of brick and concrete. We make a hole for the foundation in the form of a square, with a side 10-15 cm larger than the maximum size of the oven with a screen. We dig a pit to a depth of 50-60 cm. Next, we pour and tamp a sand cushion at least 150 mm high, and cover it with a layer of rubble stone with crushed stone. Before pouring concrete, it is necessary to waterproof the walls and pits from roofing material. Fill the last layer in the form concrete slab 20 cm thick, of which at least 15 cm must be above ground level.

A couple of hours after pouring, you need to go through the rule horizontal surface foundation to level the reference plane horizontally.

Installation of the stove body and chimney pipe

The place where it is planned to install the furnace body must be coordinated with the direction and location of the chimney pipes. An opening 30 cm larger than the dimensions of the firebox and ash pan is cut out in the wall of the bathhouse using a hammer drill or electric saw. The surface of the wall, located at a short distance from the furnace body, will need to be covered with mineral bulk thermal insulation and a sheet of metal installed. The remaining surface adjacent to the body is finished with heat-resistant tiles, as in the diagram.

If the walls of the bathhouse are made of timber, then the adjoining area will need to be laid out with red brick on cement masonry mortar, without clay, and only after that the thermal protective tiles will need to be glued.

The stove can be installed and secured to the base using spring loops screwed to the anchors.

At the base of the flood area, a layer of thermal insulation and a steel sheet 2-3 mm thick must be laid. The dimensions of the sheet must exceed the dimensions of the firebox by 30 cm in each direction.

Ideally, the first section of the chimney should be made without turns or bends. The first one and a half meters of pipe length are made of heat-resistant stainless steel. Since it gets very hot, all fastenings to the walls will need to be made of a sliding type, so that the expanding pipe does not tear off the fastenings. It is advisable to install a housing with gaskets made of heat-insulating material, and cover the chimney itself with a protective casing.

The rest of the chimney can be manufactured and installed using sandwich technology with basalt wool insulation.

The most convenient would be a remote chimney design, which can be installed on almost any wall of the bathhouse, even on a surface sheathed wooden clapboard. But for this you will need to specifically select the configuration and location of the stove in the bathhouse. A hole is punched in the wall and a special steel adapter with thermal insulation around the perimeter of the device is punched.

To lead the chimney through the roof, mounting windows are marked and cut out along a plumb line in the ceiling and in the roof, as in the photo.

After installing the adapters, the space between the pipe is covered with sheet asbestos and filled with mineral wool. On the roof of the bathhouse, the chimney pipe is covered with a protective metal cover, which is attached to the sheathing through a layer of heat-resistant rubber.

Conclusion

In general, installing a stove in a bathhouse takes two to three working days, but it is recommended to postpone the test for at least a week so that all masonry materials of the foundation and brick screen gain the required level of strength. It is recommended that the first starts of a stove with a heater mesh filled with stones should be carried out no earlier than two weeks later, when the foundation gives the first necessary settlement.

What is the best way to decorate a wall in a sauna? wood stove? Welded metal stove, metal 4mm thick. From the stove to the wall about 20-25cm. The best way to finish the wall is to prevent the lining from charring and catching fire. Are soapstone or coil slabs suitable? And is it possible to glue them directly to the lining?

You're right. For the safe operation of a metal stove, the distance specified by you (20-25cm) to wooden surface a wall is not enough. Metal stoves are characterized by active thermal radiation, at peak moments the firebox becomes red from heating. A wooden wall surface or ceiling partition, when heated to 100 °C, is guaranteed to ignite. This is especially true for wood in a steam room, where it is constantly dried until minimum values humidity.

One of the ideal options for a metal stove in a bathhouse is shown in the photo. The oven is partially covered with brick on three sides, which allows for additional heat accumulation. There is also a screen made of fireproof material installed on the wall. This can be a layer of basalt cardboard or cotton wool, with a galvanized sheet on top of it.

Double wall protection

It is better to connect the heat-insulating material of the screen with “grooves”.

Combining thermal insulation joints

Soapstone is an excellent decorative material. It is most often used for lining stoves and fireplaces, and sometimes even for laying stoves. Its main advantages in our case become disadvantages. This material perfectly accumulates and transfers heat, as evidenced by the heating of the surface on which it is installed. Therefore, if your choice fell on this stone, we can suggest replacing part of the wall (or flammable internal lining) with brick. It can even be decorative. And in this area it is already possible to lay soapstone tiles on heat-resistant adhesive for lining stoves and fireplaces.

The same recommendations apply to products made from coils. If done well, this protection option will not only look harmonious and be the highlight of the sauna, but will also provide you with almost 100% fire safety.

Option with soapstone

Have an easy and safe steam!

• How to decorate the wall behind the stove in a sauna: cladding options

  
  What material is best to use for finishing the wall behind the wood-burning stove in the sauna, so that the lining does not char and catch fire. Cladding of sauna stove and walls

Protecting walls in a bathhouse from stove heat: how to properly make a protective screen or casing

When you heat the bathhouse for procedures, the surface of the oven can heat up to 300-400 degrees. In the process, it emits infrared rays and itself becomes a source of heating. The radiated heat is distributed throughout the steam room, but first it touches the walls, which are located near the wall. If the walls in your steam room are made of wood, then due to the high temperature they will begin to char. And this can cause fire and fire. Despite the fact that various means for protecting wood and other options for eliminating this problem are advertised, the most effective method isolation was and remains the arrangement of a protective screen and casing made of non-flammable materials.

In what situations is wall protection needed?

There are situations when protecting the walls near the stove is not necessary. For example, if between the stove and the closest surface there is a safe distance from the point of view of fire regulations. This distance should be enough to disperse the infrared rays so that they weaken and do not damage the wall.

fire safe distance from a metal stove to the walls of the bathhouse

The safe distance from the wall is:

• to a brick stove (with ¼ brick masonry) - no less than 0.32 m;
• to a non-lined metal furnace - at least 1 m.
• to a metal furnace lined inside with brick or fireclay - no less than 0.7 m.

Such a safe, fire-safe distance can generally only be organized in steam rooms with impressive parameters. In smaller family-type steam rooms, when there is a need to save every centimeter, installing a stove at such a distance is not a justifiable luxury. Therefore, for such small steam rooms, it is better to use screens or special cladding to protect the walls.

Protective screen around the oven.

Shields are insulating shields that cover the sides of the oven and reduce the intensity of heat rays.

Screens can be made of brick or metal. They are mainly used for metal stoves.

Option No. 1 – metal screen. The most commonly used protective screen is made of steel or cast iron sheets,

which is bought ready-made. It is mounted around the stove at a distance of 1-5 cm from the walls of the firebox. There are side and front screens, choose depending on which side of the stove you need to cover. Manufacturers often make furnaces already equipped with a screen - a casing.

bathhouse wall protection - metal screen

The protective screen makes it possible to reduce the temperature of the external surfaces of the stove to 80-100 degrees, thereby reducing the safe distance to 50 cm. As a result, the distance from the firebox to the wall, including an installation gap of 1-5 cm, will be 51-55 cm. Install The protective screen is not complicated, it is usually equipped with legs that simply need to be bolted to the floor.

Option No. 2 – protective screen made of brick.

With such a screen you can cover all the side parts of the stove, thus making an outer lining for it. As a result, the stove will stand in a brick casing.

Or you can simply separate the oven and the fire-hazardous surface with such a screen. The material for the screen used as wall protection is solid . For the binder, take a solution made of cement or clay. Craftsmen advise making masonry in half a brick (12 cm thick). But if you don’t have enough material, you can make a screen in ¼ brick (6 cm), but this will lead to a reduction in the thermal insulation performance of the protective wall by half. And then you need to take such changes into account when calculating the safe distance.

bathhouse wall protection - brick screen

When laying, you need to leave small holes in the lower part (sometimes with fire doors). They will serve to create air exchange in the space between the stove and the screen.

The height of the brick screen should exceed the height of the stove by at least 20 cm. There are cases when the protective screen is laid out up to the ceiling.

Such a screen is not made close to the stove - you need to leave 5-15 cm. So that the walls are protected reliably optimal distance between the screen and the wall should be from 5 to 15 cm. Using a protective brick screen, you can reduce the distance from the stove to the wall to 22-42 cm. (stove + gap 5-15 cm + brick -12 cm + gap 5-15 cm. + wall),

Non-combustible wall cladding for protection.

Any wall that is adjacent to a hot stove is not immune to spontaneous combustion. To prevent overheating of the walls, it is recommended to use special sheathing, which consists of heat-insulating and non-combustible materials.

Construction of a bathhouse

Sheathing, which includes non-combustible thermal insulation and metal sheets, has proven itself to be excellent. So, you need to attach a heat-insulating material to a wooden surface, and then a stainless steel sheet on top of it.

Some people use galvanized steel, but there is information that when heated, it can release harmful substances. So it is better to use stainless steel. To increase the effectiveness of such cladding, you need to polish the metal sheet well. The specularity of the surface will improve the reflection of heat rays from the wood and naturally prevent its heating. Another advantage is that by redirecting hard IR rays back into the steam room, stainless metal

makes them softer and people perceive them more easily.

reflective wall cladding

• You can install the following thermal insulation material under a sheet of metal: Basalt wool - it has high thermal insulation and increased hygroscopicity. It is safe even in extreme conditions
• steam room, and it doesn’t burn.
• Asbestos cardboard is a fire-resistant heat-insulating material in sheets. It is characterized by excellent strength, durability and the ability to protect surfaces prone to fire from ignition.
• Minerite is a non-flammable slab that is made specifically for creating screens near stoves, fireplaces and other surfaces in a bathhouse or sauna that can easily catch fire.

The following cladding scheme is popular:

Wall – ventilation gap 2-3cm. – insulation 1-2 cm. – metal sheet. The safe distance from the stove to the wall will be at least 38 cm.

Ceramic bushings are used to secure the sheathing to the wall. They do not heat up and additionally serve to create a ventilation gap between the wall and the layer of heat-insulating material.

If you were unable to install the stove at a safe distance, then you need to cover it with two layers of heat-insulating material. In this option, the sheets are secured through bushings, maintaining a gap of 2-3 cm, and the top sheet is covered with a metal sheet.

Russian bath project

Reflective cladding is an excellent protection for wood walls from heat and fire, but it may not always look beautiful or appropriate in a steam room. If you have a steam room with a certain design or decor, you can disguise such cladding with heat-resistant tiles. To lay such tiles you need to use heat-resistant adhesive.

Protection of the wall near the stove with lining can be made of the following materials:

• Terracotta tiles are made from fired clay and have excellent strength, heat resistance and service life. Terracotta can be matte or glazed, with shades ranging from pastel yellow to brick red.
• Clinker tiles are clay tiles similar to facing bricks. Its structure is denser than that of terracotta. The color may be your favorite, even white or black, or something completely unusual for tiles - blue or green.
• Tiles are a type of ceramic tile. A characteristic feature is embossing in the form of a pattern or ornament on the front part.
• Porcelain tiles are tiles of increased strength and heat resistance. Different way processing the front side forms a different surface. Porcelain tiles can imitate stone, brick or wood. The color palette includes natural shades, from white to black.
• Soapstone is a natural mountain stone of gray or green hue. Distinctive features: fire resistance, water resistance, strength.

protective cladding with cladding

Using fire resistant tiles to cover a wall will not provide thermal insulation. The walls will heat up anyway. The tile serves only one component in this design:

Wall – ventilation gap 2-3 cm. – fire-resistant material in sheets – tiles. The distance from the stove to the tiles should be at least 15-20 cm.

Refractory material can be:

• Fire-resistant drywall (GKLO) is a drywall containing fiberglass. It does not deform under the influence of heat.
• Minerite is a non-flammable cement-fiber board. In addition, it is moisture resistant and not subject to rotting or decomposition.
• Glass magnesium sheet (SML) – slab material, which includes fiberglass and magnesium binder. This material is famous for its heat and sound insulation properties, and its resistance to temperature changes and the influence of water.

If the wall protection is carried out in compliance with all the rules and the organization of a ventilation gap, then such cladding will have a low heat absorption rate, and the wall will hardly heat up. In addition, using tiles for cladding will mask the protective layer well, and you will not spoil the style and design of the steam room.

Protecting the walls in the bathhouse from stove heat: how to properly make a protective screen or casing

Protecting the walls of the bathhouse from the heat of the stove: rules for constructing protective screens and casings

During the heating of the bath, the surface of the stove heats up to 300-400°C. At the same time, it begins to emit infrared rays and itself becomes a source of heating. The coming heat is distributed throughout the steam room, but first of all it hits the walls adjacent to the stove. If the walls are wooden, then under the influence of high temperatures their charring begins. And there it’s already a stone’s throw away! The only truly effective way to insulate wooden walls from heat is to create protective screens and cladding from non-combustible materials in the bathhouse.

When is protection needed at all?

Installation required protective casings and screens do not always occur. If a fire-safe distance is maintained between the stove and the nearest flammable surface, additional protection is not needed. At this distance, the IR rays are scattered, weakened, and the amount of them that the wooden wall receives can no longer lead to damage.

It is believed that the safe distance from the wall to the brick stove (quarter-brick laying) is at least 0.32 m, from the wall to the metal stove (not lined) - at least 1 m. For a metal stove lined from the inside with brick or fireclay, the distance decreases to 0.7 m.

Therefore, maintaining fire distances is more possible in large baths, where the issue of saving space is not relevant. In family steam rooms, where every centimeter of space counts, installing a stove 0.3-1 m from the nearest walls is impractical. In this case, the safety distances established by the standards must be reduced using screens and casings.

Protective screens near (around) the stove

Protective screens are insulation shields that cover side surfaces furnaces and reducing the intensity of thermal radiation. Screens can be metal or brick. As a rule, they are used for metal furnaces.

Method #1 - metal screens

The most common protective screens are factory-made steel or cast iron sheets. They are installed around the stove, at a distance of 1-5 cm from the walls of the firebox. Depending on the need to insulate one side or another of the furnace, you can purchase side or front (front) screens. Many metal furnaces are initially manufactured with protective screens in the form protective casing.

Protective screens make it possible to reduce the temperature of external metal surfaces to 80-100°C and, accordingly, reduce the fireproof distance to 50 cm. The total distance from the firebox to the wall (including a gap of 1-5 cm) will be 51-55 cm.

Installing protective screens is not difficult. Thanks to the presence of legs, metal panels are easily bolted to the floor.

Method #2 - brick screens

A brick screen can cover all the side surfaces of a metal furnace, representing its outer cladding. Then the stove will be in a casing made of brickwork. In another case, a brick screen is a wall separating the stove and the flammable surface.

To lay the protective screen, solid fireclay bricks are used. The binder is cement or clay mortar. It is recommended to use half a brick (thickness 120 mm). But, if there is a lack of material, it is possible to make a wall of a quarter of a brick (60 mm thick), although in this case the thermal insulation properties of the screen will be reduced by half.

Small openings (sometimes with fire doors) are left at the bottom of the shield for air convection between brick wall and a stove.

The brick walls of the screen must end at least 20 cm above the top surface of the oven. Sometimes the masonry goes all the way to the ceiling.

The brick screen is not installed flush against the walls of the stove, the optimal distance is 5-15 cm. The acceptable distance from the brickwork to the flammable wall is 5-15 cm. Thus, the use of a brick screen allows you to reduce the distance from the stove to the wooden wall to 22-42 cm (stove - ventilation gap 5-15 cm - brick 12 cm - ventilation gap 5-15 cm - wall).

Protective non-combustible wall coverings

Walls adjacent to the hot furnace walls are susceptible to spontaneous combustion. To prevent their overheating, special casings consisting of heat-insulating and non-combustible materials are used.

Option #1 - reflective trim

Effective are claddings consisting of a combination non-combustible thermal insulation and metal sheets. In this case, thermal insulation is attached to the wooden surface, which is covered with a stainless steel sheet on top. Some use galvanizing for these purposes, but, according to some data, when heated, it can release harmful substances. It’s better not to risk it and buy a stainless steel sheet.

For greater efficiency, the metal sheet of the screen must be well polished. Mirror surface promotes the reflection of heat rays from the wooden surface and, accordingly, prevents its heating. In addition, a stainless steel sheet, directing IR rays back into the steam room, transforms hard radiation into softer radiation, better perceived by humans.

The following can be fixed under stainless steel as thermal insulation:

• Basalt wool - it has high thermal insulation properties and is absolutely safe when used in a bathhouse. It has increased hygroscopicity and does not burn.
• Basalt cardboard is thin sheets of basalt fiber. Used as a fireproof, sound and heat insulating material.
• Asbestos cardboard is a sheet fire-resistant heat insulator. It has high strength and durability, protects flammable surfaces from ignition.
• Minerite is a non-flammable sheet (plate) specially manufactured for shielding stoves, fireplaces, and easily flammable surfaces in baths and saunas.

A popular example of cladding using a metal sheet is this “pie”: wall – ventilation gap (2-3 cm) – insulation (1-2 cm) – stainless steel sheet. The distance from the wooden wall to the stove is at least 38 cm (SNiP 41-01-2003).

Ceramic bushings are used to attach the sheathing to the wall. They do not heat up and allow the formation of ventilation gaps between the thermal insulation and the wall.

If the distance between wooden wall and the stove is minimal, then the cladding is made of two layers of fireproof insulation, for example, mineralite. In this case, the sheets are fixed through ceramic bushings maintaining a gap of 2-3 cm. Top sheet closed with stainless steel.

Option #2 - sheathing with cladding

Of course, protective cladding with stainless steel perfectly protects wooden walls from heat and fire. But it can spoil the impression of the most expensive finish. Therefore, if the steam room is maintained in decorative style, the fire-resistant cladding is masked with heat-resistant tiles. The tiles are laid on heat-resistant adhesive, for example, produced by Terracotta.

The best materials for cladding walls near the stove:

• Terracotta tiles are made from baked clay. It is characterized by strength, heat resistance, durability. Terracotta tiles can be matte or glazed (majolica), and the color varies from pastel yellow to brick red.
• Clinker tiles are also made of clay and look similar to facing bricks. Unlike terracotta, clinker tiles are denser. The color range covers almost all colors, ranging from white to black, including green and blue tones, unusual for clay.
• Tiles are a type of ceramic tile. It usually has embossing on the front surface in the form of a design or ornament.
• Porcelain tiles are heat-resistant, durable tiles. Depending on the method of processing the front surface, tiles can imitate natural stone, brick, or wood. IN color scheme– all natural shades, from white to black.
• Soapstone is a rock of grayish or greenish color. It is fireproof, waterproof and durable.

Attaching fire-resistant tiles directly to walls will not have any thermal insulation effect. The wall will still heat up, which can lead to spontaneous combustion. Therefore, tiles are used only as an element of a protective “pie” of the following design: wall – ventilation gap (2-3 cm) – fireproof sheet material- tile. It is recommended to maintain a minimum distance of 15-20 cm from the tiles to the walls of the oven.

Any material from this list can be used as a fire-resistant element in the cladding:

• Fire-resistant drywall (GKLO) is drywall supplemented with fiberglass fibers. Resists thermal effects without structural deformation.
• Minerite is a cement-fiber board, absolutely non-flammable. Minerite slabs are moisture resistant, do not rot, and do not decompose.
• Glass-magnesium sheet (FMS) is a material in the form of plates made on the basis of magnesium binder and fiberglass. It has heat and sound insulating properties and is not destroyed by water and temperature changes.

The protective cladding, which must comply with the ventilation gap, has a very low heat absorption coefficient, so the wall underneath it practically does not heat up. In addition, the use of cladding allows you to disguise the protective “pie” and maintain the finishing of the steam room in the same style.

Protecting the walls of the bathhouse from the heat of the stove: installing protective sheathing and screens

How to decorate a stove in a bathhouse

Metal stoves have gained great popularity among home bath owners in recent years. The reason for this was the ease and speed of installation and affordable pricing. However, they have a number of disadvantages, ranging from unpresentable appearance to the likelihood of a fire. The finishing of the stove in the bathhouse is carried out to reduce negative factors.

During operation, the temperature of the metal furnace in the bath reaches about 400 0. Metal heated to such a temperature can cause a fire in nearby wooden structures. For fire safety purposes, there are permissible distances from a metal heating source to the wall established by SNiP. In the absence of protective screens, the distance should be at least 1 meter.

In large rooms, maintaining such a distance is not difficult. But if the question concerns a small home bath, every centimeter of space is important.

To reduce the permissible distance, a number of measures are taken:

• install protective screens around the stove itself;
• sheathe sections of walls located in close proximity to the source of ignition.

Metal screens

Installation of steel sheets allows you to reduce the fire hazard distance. From the wooden surface to the steel screen it is enough to maintain 50 cm.

Protective screens made of metal can be either factory-made or welded independently. During installation, it is necessary to create a ventilation gap between the heating part of the stove and the metal screen. The presence of a ventilation duct helps heat the casing to 100 0 . Factory screens are equipped with legs and fasteners; using them, installing the sheets will not be difficult.

Brick screens

There are two options for installing a brick screen:

• a brick partition is erected only between the wooden wall of the bathhouse and the metal stove;
• The oven is covered with brick walls on all sides.

It is enough to leave a distance of 10-15 cm between the wooden wall and the brick screen.

Covering walls with heat-reflecting screens

Reflective cladding is a heat-insulating material covered with a stainless steel sheet on top. This option allows you to reduce the distance from the protective coating to the working surface of the oven to 38 cm.

Non-flammable, durable materials with low thermal conductivity are used as a protective layer that prevents the wooden surface from catching fire:

• basalt wool(basalt canvas, basalt slabs, basalt cardboard), sometimes it is called - stone wool. Made from rock (basalt), it is environmentally friendly pure material. It does not emit harmful compounds when heated, withstands temperatures up to 600 0 without collapsing or losing its properties. It has good water-repellent ability, does not absorb moisture at all and does not cause corrosion of adjacent materials;
• mineralite slabs- the main component in them is cement. Capable of withstanding temperatures of 600 0, however working temperature, at which the properties do not change, is 150 0. Absorbs and releases moisture well. Minerite is harmless to the respiratory tract when heated;

• asbestos boards or asbestos cardboard. Some consider it a carcinogenic material that is harmful to health, but this has not been scientifically proven. Asbestos dust can cause harm to the body if inhaled. Covered with a metal sheet on top, asbestos has proven itself to be a good thermal insulation material;
• expanded vermeculite slabs do not contain asbestos and are made of mountain mica. They have low specific gravity and high mechanical strength. Such slabs can be coated with a layer of plaster and covered with ceramic tiles.

The heat-insulating layer is covered with a stainless steel sheet on top. In some cases, galvanized iron is used, but it is “transparent” to IR rays. The polished surface of the steel is able to reflect heat rays, directing them back into the bathhouse.

Metal sheets are mounted on ceramic mounts that are not subject to strong heat. For free circulation of air flows, preventing heating of the wooden wall, it is necessary to provide a ventilation gap. To do this, a ventilation gap is provided between the heat-insulating layer and the wall. The screen is mounted, leaving a distance above the floor and above the ceiling.

Sheathing followed by cladding

You can ensure an aesthetically presentable appearance of the bathhouse by decorating the heat-insulating layer with fire-resistant tiles, the installation of which must be done with heat-resistant glue.

To ensure high thermal insulation protection fireproof materials are mounted on the wooden surface from the heat of the stove, which can be used as:

• glass magnetic sheets resistant to high temperatures and high humidity environment. They are characterized by high elasticity and mechanical strength. When heated, they do not emit toxic substances;
• expanded vermiculite sheets;
• mineralite slabs.

Facing types: tiles

The following types of tiles have proven themselves well for cladding thermal insulation areas:

• Terracotta tiles. Eco-friendly unglazed tiles made from colored clay without mechanical impurities through long-term firing in ovens. It has increased heat resistance and does not emit harmful substances or specific odors when heated. During operation it does not lose its original color. It has a color palette from gray to beige. It has textured options for wood and stone. Able to retain heat for a long time.
• Clinker tiles made from shale clay. It is fired at a temperature of about 1200 0 in one cycle. Does not cause harm to health during the heating process. Such tiles are durable, have increased resistance to abrasion and color loss. The palette of produced colors ranges from black to white.

• Porcelain tiles. Artificial finishing material consisting of clay, quartz sand and kaolin. It withstands humid environments and high temperatures well and is not destroyed by thermal shock. Has a long service life. Manufacturers produce glazed, matte, polished porcelain tiles, structured to resemble leather, wood, and stone.
• Soapstone tiles. Natural material of mountain origin, most often gray in color, but interspersed with brown, cherry, yellow and green shades. Withstands repeated heating and high humidity, accumulates and releases heat well.

Installation of a brick casing around a metal plate

The brick casing for shielding the furnace has significant weight, and a prerequisite for its installation is the presence of a foundation.

Foundation structure

If the brickwork around a metal stove is made in a bathhouse that has already been built, the floor covering will have to be dismantled.

The size of the concrete base is calculated by adding the size of the brickwork 20 cm + ventilation gap 10 cm + horizontal dimensions of the metal furnace.

Installation begins by selecting a layer of soil. The depth depends on the degree of soil freezing and is about 60 cm.

In the case of close groundwater, geotextiles or roofing felt, well coated with bitumen mastic, are laid on the bottom and sides of the pit.

A sand cushion is installed on the base of the resulting pit. The sand is laid wet and compacted thoroughly. A layer of gravel or crushed stone is poured on top and compacted.

Add another layer of sand 15 cm thick.

• assemble a reinforcing lattice from reinforcement or metal rods, with cell size 10*10;
• pour concrete mortar, not reaching the edges of the pit by 10 cm;
• after this, the concrete needs time to “mature” for three weeks;
• on top of concrete base lay several layers of roofing felt and install a heat-resistant slab;
• lay a continuous row of bricks, which should not protrude beyond the boundaries of the refractory sheet; voids in the masonry are also unacceptable. Excess solution is immediately removed;
• the second row is laid similarly to the first, but with offset seams;
• observance of the horizontal plane is considered a mandatory condition.

Preparation of mortar for masonry

You can purchase a ready-made solution in a store or use a sand-clay mixture. To determine the best ratio of sand and clay, make a small batch from which a cylinder or bar is formed. Pay attention to the possible appearance of cracks, the absence of which is an indicator of quality.

It is preferable to use clay used for masonry from deep layers, without earthen and mechanical impurities.

To give the clay the required consistency and plasticity, it is kept in water for several days, after which it is ground through a sieve to remove debris.

A 1:1 proportion of clay and sand is considered good; liquid is added to it in small portions.

A high-quality mixture does not stick to the trowel and does not drip from it. When running a trowel over the solution, the mark left behind should not blur or have a torn structure.

To improve the quality of the masonry, add rock salt at the rate of 0.1 kg per bucket of finished mortar. It is also good to add cement and fireclay powder.

Technological process of furnace lining

The laying of a protective casing around a metal plate is carried out:

• red solid brick, which has a high degree of heat resistance and a long service life;
• fireclay brick, which has the same characteristics, but a higher cost;

• ceramic refractory brick: it has all the positive properties of solid brick, but at the same time it has a more aesthetic appearance and can be used as a cladding brick.

In some cases, masonry is carried out with hollow bricks, but it must be taken into account that it has worse heat retention characteristics.

It is advisable to soak the brick before starting work. Dry brick is able to quickly absorb the liquid fraction through capillaries and does not allow the binding part of the mortar to penetrate inside to increase the adhesion of the masonry. In the summer, this method is not difficult.

If the construction process takes place in the autumn-spring period, in cold, damp weather, dry the wet brick in finished product quite problematic. Heating for drying means dealing a blow to the strength even before the stove starts operating: uneven heating will destroy the seams. It is also impossible to leave the stove undried over the winter; the cold will tear the masonry under the influence of negative temperatures. In this case, make a more liquid solution and slightly wet the surface of the brick.

If there is insufficient construction experience, for the convenience of maintaining a horizontal plane, stretch a cord or fishing line around the perimeter of the masonry. Inconvenience this method consists in the need to raise the fishing line with each row.

You can pay 30-50% less for light, depending on what electrical appliances you use.

Finishing a stove in a bathhouse - how and with what material to finish a stove in a bathhouse

A stove in a bathhouse is an important and dangerous element, so it is better to understand in advance the issues of installing it and protecting it from its heat, so that you can then use the bathhouse for as long as possible, protecting yourself from fires.

What types of stoves can be used in a sauna?

Today, the choice of steamer is extremely diverse: you can buy a stove and make it yourself, or buy it and modify it, but there are a lot of options. Let's reduce them to several main types. Ovens are:

• brick;
• metal (including);
• electric.

Brick kilns

Traditional “in white” are brick. They have a number of advantages, since there is a direct connection between such a stove and the requirements of a Russian bath.

In particular, the brick kiln provides uniform heating, and most importantly - light steam, that is, formed at a high temperature, from which the steamer does not have breathing problems, as from heavy low-temperature steam.

But the brick oven also has its own flaws. Built entirely of brick, it will heavy, expensive and will require some skill in maintenance(!inexpensive stove options are presented in). You need to decide at the design stage, because there will be costs for .

Heaters in brick kilns come in all types:

• flow-through, where they are washed by fire;
• deaf, where the stone is separated by a solid sheet of metal from the fire;
• open– with stones on the surface;
• – with a door covering the heater compartment;
• bell-shaped- a type of closed blind with more efficient heating.

Metal furnaces

A very common option because it more budget-friendly compared to with a solid brick stove. , or steel- both of different brands.

IMPORTANT! A metal stove without a surround will overheat the room. This is good for a sauna, but not for a Russian bath.

The fact is that metal heats up quickly, and stones heat up slowly. And always during the heating Most of the heat is released into the room. Bare metal will give off too much heat to the room, which should not heat above 40-60 degrees. And the stone must heat up to 400 degrees to produce light steam. This creates a big contradiction: to heat the stone to get good steam, you will have to overheat the sauna very much.

The solution to this problem is usually to install brick lining around . This redistributes the heat released during combustion, the brick accumulates it and releases it more softly and for a long time than metal.

On the other side, they are suitable for saunas, where the air temperature is higher and the steam is several times less.

TO shortcomings This type of oven also includes the fact that they not only heat up quickly, but also cool down quickly. Therefore, the bath procedure has to be interrupted in order to heat the stove again.

The cost of a metal stove will be lower than a brick one also because for it no need for this solid foundation . A foundation is sometimes necessary, but it can be shallow, and in some cases they are generally limited to a layer of refractories under the stove and that’s it.

There are a lot of varieties of metal stoves - both homemade and factory-made. One of them is worth mentioning separately.

Electric heaters

Electric ovens were originally. But then models appeared that are capable of working in Russian bath mode. Those who decide to opt for should find out whether the selected model has one or two modes. However, there is a simple criterion:

IMPORTANT! Models with a load of stones of 20-40 kilograms are intended exclusively for saunas; you simply cannot pour a lot of water on them. Models for Russian baths begin with a load of stones of 60 kilograms.

Electric heaters are usually bought by those who expect to receive quick results with a minimum of effort. There is no need to cook firewood or wait for the stove to heat up (! wood stoves dedicated). It all comes down solely to electricity costs (well, electric heaters themselves cost a lot). The second advantage of these stoves is that they are quite compact, and up to a certain weight they can also be mounted on the wall, freeing up space in the steam room. Floor-standing models allow free rearrangement - they are not connected to chimneys and foundations.

Where to put the stove in the bathhouse?

The location of the stove depends on many factors, in particular, on its type, as well as on the location of the firebox (in the same or in an adjacent room). In addition, fire safety is important - all fuel must be at least half a meter away.

So, those who decided to install it make a foundation for it, so the location is already determined at the sketch stage. But with a metal stove, sometimes people delay until the last minute, not knowing which model to buy. Therefore, it happens that the walls are already ready have to cut, and do other extra work.

IMPORTANT! The location of the supply air depends on the location of the stove, so it’s better to think in advance.

In addition to ventilation, it is worth thinking about fire safety, especially in a bathhouse with flammable walls. Often, in order to provide it, part of the wall is made of brick. Which again speaks to the need for planning.

The location of the stove in a bathhouse with a separate steam room

There can be two options:

• or the stove, together with the firebox, is located entirely in the steam room, which means it only heats it;
• or the firebox is moved to the adjacent room, which allows for partial heating of that room too.

The location of the stove in a bathhouse with a separate steam room: option with a firebox from the rest room. Scheme from

In the first case, in the cold season you will have to think about how and with what to heat neighboring rooms, in the second - the same problem remains only partially.

Stove in a bathhouse with washing and steam room

Here you can also find several solutions. The firebox can be taken not to the rest room or dressing room, but to the washing room. But this is problematic from the point of view of storing firewood. Therefore there are other options.

Stove in a bathhouse with washing and steam room

IMPORTANT! A separate foundation for a brick oven is made so that it has its own shrinkage, not related to the shrinkage of the house.

Such a foundation is made thoroughly, deepened to the load-bearing layer. If the stove weighs more than 700 kg, but not by much, then you can make a shallow foundation.

Usually the foundation for the furnace is not brought up to the height of the subfloor, because then the bricks are laid and the height is compared. The area of ​​the furnace foundation should be 15-20 cm larger than the stove base area on each side.

The video below clearly demonstrates the process of pouring a foundation for a bathhouse yourself. The video is a little dark, but it gives you an idea of ​​the process.

Finishing before installing the stove

Installing a stove is the final stage, which is preceded by numerous preparatory work, especially in a bathhouse with flammable walls. There are general rules according to which you can safely place a stove in a bathhouse.

Fire requirements

The floor, walls, and ceiling must be protected from a burning stove.

IMPORTANT! The first rule states that the minimum distance from a very hot object should be at least half a meter.

Let's consider the option when the furnace firebox is located in the room adjacent to the steam room. If the wall is wooden, then an opening is made in it either immediately or after construction is completed. Its size is significantly larger than the size of the fuel channel.

Those who build a special brick wall around the fuel channel do the right thing. Its dimensions can be determined either by the requirements that are in the oven passport(If we're talking about about a metal stove purchased in a store), or, if the stove is homemade, then the minimum distance to the wood of the wall is 38 cm, but it’s safer to make it 50 cm. If you use heat insulators resistant to high temperatures, then the distance can be cut a little - to 25-36 cm.

IMPORTANT! The brick should not touch the fuel channel; a layer of heat insulator is placed between the metal and the brick, capable of withstanding temperatures of 800-1000 degrees. Glass wool is not suitable. Like mineral wool with binders, because the latter are organic matter that will evaporate into the air when heated and will poison people.

The chimney also needs thermal insulation, because the metal one heats up to high temperatures. The insulation material is the same able to withstand intense heat.

The ceiling above the stove often causes fires, so it is recommended to decorate it with fireproofing ( mineralite,basalt cardboard). The area of ​​the latter should be one third larger than the area of ​​the top of the oven.

When using electric heaters, grounding should not be neglected.

IMPORTANT! Make a separate grounding loop for the steam room.

Floor protection is usually done like this: regardless of whether there is a foundation or not, a base of bricks is made under the stove, on which a sheet of asbestos cardboard 12 mm thick is laid, and a steel sheet is placed on top of it. In some cases, the first brick layer is not done.

IMPORTANT! Asbestos cardboard and steel sheet in front of the firebox should protrude half a meter, and on the remaining three sides they can be 3 cm wider than the base.

By the way, some people place stoves not on bricks and metal, but on porcelain stoneware or other durable tiles made of natural or artificial stone.

IMPORTANT! For those who are afraid of asbestos, we can recommend basalt cardboard. In addition, it holds up to 700 degrees instead of the limit of 500 for asbestos cardboard. There is also fireproof boards, withstanding up to 1100 degrees.

Useful video

And here is a video on the topic: fun and quickly the guys laid out a brick wall for.

Flood sheet

It can be done yourself from a sheet of tin, or you can buy it in a store that sells good stainless steel flood sheets.

You can put such a sheet under the entire stove, or just in front of the fire door to protect the floor from sparks and embers. There are flooding sheets of different sizes on sale: from small to meter-long.

Instead of metal, it is permissible to use any other heat-resistant material. As already mentioned, this can be tiles made of stone or other material.

Tiles for the steam room in the bathhouse near the stove

Let's take a closer look at the tiles for the steam room. Despite the fact that it can be used more widely in the bathhouse, we are only interested in the stove area. There are suitable tiles with the following properties:

• heat resistance;
• thickness from 8 mm;
• low porosity.

Since we are not talking about decorative cladding, but about a simple refractory base on which the stove will stand, you should not pay attention to glazed types of tiles. They are, of course, double fired, but this glaze will crack and crumble under the influence of temperature.

Tiles for the steam room in the bathhouse near the stove

Porcelain tiles wouldn't fit if you decided to put it where people would walk, but under the stove - quite suitable.

Also suitable: metlakhskaya, clinker, terracotta tiles When choosing, be guided by the characteristics mentioned above.

In addition to ceramic tiles, it is quite acceptable to place the stove on tiles made of natural stone– here the choice is yours; any not too thin stone tile suitable for a bathhouse will do. That is Not marble(!), and, let's say, coil, gabbro and so on.

Decorating wooden walls near the stove in the steam room

If the stove was not located next to the wall, then no protection for the wooden wall would be needed at all. So it's all about distance - for a brick oven it is 32 cm, for metal without lining – 1 m, with lining – 70 cm. But there is usually not enough space in the steam room, so the stove is placed almost flush with the wall or even in a corner. Or her firebox is brought into an adjacent room, and the length of the fuel channel is 25 cm - there’s no way to keep it further away.

Therefore, they often place in a wooden bathhouse brick wall where the oven will be located. The scheme has already been described above - with distances and thermal insulation.

It is permissible to put a layer on top of the wood plaster more than 25 mm thick on a metal mesh.

You can also use sheets of one or another heat-resistant material, but this is called “ protective screen"and about its varieties we'll talk below. In some cases on top of screens decorative heat-resistant tiles, for example, terracotta, are glued. Or metal sheets are attached to the same refractory base.

Depending on the type of finishing, you have to do it either before, or you can do it after. For example, a brick wall or screen must be made in advance.

Video

Video on the topic: a video about how to take into account the shrinkage of a log house when installing refractories.

Installing a stove in a steam room

Installation of a purchased stove is always described in detail in the instructions supplied with it. If the stove is brick, then it is installed by a stove maker. Homemade options remain.

Heavy stoves are placed on a foundation, while light stoves are placed only on a brick or other heat-resistant base.

We have already told you how to protect the wall from overheating if the firebox is in an adjacent room. If the firebox is in a steam room, you need to take care good room ventilation, because otherwise the oxygen will quickly burn out.

Walls, floor and ceiling protected by fireproof materials. After installing the stove on the prepared base, you still need to prepare a system for heating water and install a chimney. The latter needs special attention because he also represents fire danger.

Box for the passage of the chimney through the ceiling for installation

The chimney should be wrapped with heat-insulating material (basalt cardboard, for example) from the exit point through the ceiling of the steam room and to the roof top. At the exit through the ceiling, the chimney passes through a metal box for the heat insulator, and at the exit from the roof (if the roof is insulated) - through another layer of heat insulation, bonded to the pipe with a heat-resistant sealant or (if the roof is cold) - through a special sealed penetration.

Features of installing the stove on a wooden floor

This is also done if the total weight of the stove with all screens and chimneys is less than 700 kg. However, if your stove is supported by 4 legs, then they will put more pressure on the base at the support points than the same stove without legs. Hence, need to distribute the load, placing the stove on a solid base between it and the floor.

IMPORTANT! Another condition for installing a stove on a wooden floor is a thick floorboard and strong joists under the floor.

You can lay a sheet of refractory material on the floor - asbestos or basalt cardboard, with a sheet thickness of 12 mm. On top of it is a metal sheet. We have already written about how they should protrude beyond the furnace.

Instead of metal, you can put brick, ceramics or natural stone.

Oven protection for people and walls

It's time to talk about protective screen, as well as about a fence that will protect steamers from accidental burns.

Video

Watch another short video about how this is done in one bath:

Protective screen for the stove in the steam room

Only metal stoves create problems with overheating in the bathhouse. To combat this, several types of screens have been created, each of which is better or worse suited to solving the following problems:

• protection of the steam room from overheating, hard infrared radiation, transforming it into a softer one and accumulating heat;
• protection of a wall made of flammable material from overheating and fire;
• regulation of heat exchange in the steam room.

In first place in popularity will be brick screen. This is a masonry of solid bricks on either 2, 3, or 4 sides around the stove. Wherein There must be a distance of 5-10 cm between the screen and the oven.

IMPORTANT! Masonry is most often done in half a brick - this is the middle position between masonry in a quarter of a brick and in a whole brick. The thinnest one does not prevent overheating, but it does not take so long to heat the bathhouse. The thickest masonry is closest to the parameters of a brick oven - the temperature will not be high, it will take a long time to heat, but the heat will be soft and long-lasting.

For heat exchange, holes are made at the bottom of the brick screen. They can be closed with doors, or you can simply insert bricks into them. When they are open, hot air from the stove enters the steam room and accelerates heating.

IMPORTANT! Holes are required at the bottom of the screen. In other places - at the request of the owner.

The height of the brick screen should not be lower than the height of the oven, but how much higher it will be than the stove is up to the owner to decide. With one caveat: you shouldn’t build it all the way to the ceiling, because otherwise you’ll have to invest in the foundation as well. Add the weight of bricks and mortar to the weight of the stove and chimney to calculate the total weight and stay within the weight limit for a stove without a foundation.

By the way, masonry mortar is a mixture of clay and sand, without cement.

Watch the video to see what the mortar should be like and how to lay bricks correctly:

Another type of screen is made of metal. Metal screens are available with convection and without convection.

Convection– two-layer, hollow inside. The voids between the ribs are filled with air, and it conducts heat poorly, so it acts as a heat insulator. Such a screen is enough to lower the temperature and prevent the wall from catching fire. The holes in the screen are designed to allow air to circulate.

There are other screens that are simply a polished sheet of metal. Polishing reflects part of the IR radiation, reducing its absorption by the metal. This screen is designed to be mounted on a wall, but not directly on wood, but on a layer of refractory or on slats of thermal insulation. In the latter case, cooling occurs due to air gap, so the rail should be several centimeters thick.

Refractories such as basalt or asbestos cardboard is attached directly to wooden wall , and already to them - a sheet of metal. It is good to use ceramic dowels for fastening.

Often the furnace lining natural stone accompanied by insulation of the stove corner with the same material. This combination looks good.

Cheap metal screen option you can make it yourself from two sheets steel for roofing and 3/8 inch metal pipes. The tubes are attached to the wall, then the first layer of profile is placed on them. Then another layer of tubes and a second profile sheet. The structure should be 10 cm above the floor level and below the ceiling level by the same amount.

A type of screen can be plaster wall between the stove and the wooden wall.

Stove fencing in the steam room

Fencing a sauna stove in a steam room: the “brick + tile + wood” option

For the safety of those in the steam room, a fence is usually placed around the stove to prevent them from accidentally touching the hot metal. It differs from the screen in that usually made of wood and is not intended to interfere with thermal radiation.

Knowing who will visit the bathhouse in the future, it is worth making a denser fence in advance, which will prevent small children stick your hand into the stove. If the bathhouse adults only, then simple railings around the stove with supports in the corners are sufficient.

Tree species matter: resinous ones are not suitable. The best thing alder or Linden.

Now all that remains is to apply the acquired knowledge in practice. Good luck!