How to glue a decorative stone on polystyrene foam. Wall insulation with decorative stone (foam)

1. 
   

   Who has installation experience artificial stone for styrofoam?
   There is an article on the Internet about laying artificial stone on various surfaces; “Expanded polystyrene is fixed to the wall with the help of special plastic dowels - “fungi” with a steel core in increments of 35-40 cm. The plaster mesh is pressed against the expanded polystyrene with the same dowels. It is plastered with a special plaster mixture for expanded polystyrene”, I haven’t seen live examples, will expanded polystyrene withstand even reinforced, the weight of an artificial stone of 40 kg / m2 ??

2. Registration: 01.01.09 Messages: 124 Acknowledgments: 21
   

   Will expanded polystyrene withstand even reinforced, the weight of artificial stone 40 kg/m2??

   At least what I saw live, in this way, corners-openings are decorated. I won’t say the density of the stone, it’s with the neighbors ... So far it seems to be holding

   When he himself planned something similar, he intended to use the stone with such mortgages made of metal, kiriss, in my opinion, is a manufacturer. And fasten it to the guides, between which lay the insulation

3. Registration: 12.03.07 Messages: 13 Acknowledgments: 2
   
4. 
   

   It's up to you, of course.
   Absolutely unreasonable.

5. 
   

   It's up to you, of course.
   But I consider it unreasonable to glue a stone on such a basis.
   Absolutely unreasonable.

   I join. We ourselves have a house with 40 cm cellular concrete, we plan lining with artificial stone, we consulted with polystyrene workers, they, people interested in work, do not advise us. The weight is large for any glue, not strong adhesion of tile glue (even special) to polystyrene foam. Styrofoam still needs to be additionally plastered before gluing the stone, if you put it on the anchor system, then the same cold bridges, but the point is ... Well, no need ... I think 40 cm Huebel is enough.

6. Registration: 07.12.08 Messages: 1.262 Acknowledgments: 5.387 azemskov Alexander Zemskov
   
7. 
   

   At the Mosbuild 2009 exhibition, I talked with one builder, he is just engaged in the insulation of facades, he said: “that if with glue and mesh and even anchors, then the polystyrene foam will delaminate anyway.” Maybe someone still has a positive experience of attaching an artificial stone to polystyrene foam?

   Try instead of "fungi" to use leaf aceid. I think it will work. At least on the plinth. I myself think...

8. Registration: 24.01.08 Messages: 275 Acknowledgments: 153
   

   But if you try to use foamed glass instead of polystyrene foam. but expensive!! ... and still the joints ... IMHO ... not worth the candle.

9. Registered: 28.11.07 Messages: 4.136 Acknowledgments: 2.771 Waldschnepfer uncultured darkness
   

   I am thinking of insulating the veranda from the outside with polystyrene, and since the house is stone, then decorate the plaster under the stone.

10. Registration: 02.02.07 Messages: 8.609 Acknowledgments: 7.352 beutiflet elite proletarian
    

    Plaster - Yes.
    Even the tile will still somehow hang normally.
    But stone.
    Here are pictures of the neighbor's cottage.
    It is all covered with EPS initially.
    They also thought about the stone, but as a result they made the house “textured” with the same XPS of different thicknesses and “revived” it with a strip of mosaic tiles.
    Both in the middle and at the top.
    Around the windows, stucco molding is also EPPS
    I think it's very normal.

11. Registration: 08.04.09 Messages: 70 Acknowledgments: 20
    

    Finished the basement of the house, only with natural stone last year. Styrofoam was glued with foam to concrete, then umbrellas were also nailed. Hammered reinforcement 10 mm through the foam into concrete. Tied to her plaster mesh. After that, the stone was glued. Adhesives used different for outdoor work, stone thickness 4 cm. Maximum wall height 3 m. Holds dead.

12. Registration: 01.08.08 Messages: 479 Acknowledgments: 117
    

    Here, too, I faced a choice of how to finish the base on top of polystyrene foam.
    Who else put a stone on polystyrene foam? Or maybe some other material?

    found a link

13. Registration: 20.01.08 Messages: 73 Acknowledgments: 7
    

    In fact, everyone is right in saying that double doweling through the mesh is necessary. But no one canceled the restrictions on the load anyway. To finish the plinth, manufacturers of the material have special decorative mosaic plasters with marble chips. They are applied in the same way as finishing decorative for the facade, very practical and wear-resistant. The manufacturer of the Texcolor thermal insulation system is called DekoMarmor if I'm not mistaken.

14. Registration: 01.11.08 Messages: 294 Acknowledgments: 93 Kalyuzhkin is his own builder
    

    I'm preparing myself for this action this season. In the facade company, where I ordered materials for the “wet” facade, I was recommended to do all the operations in the places of stone inserts like the classic one. wet facade on foam before applying decorative plaster. Instead of applying plaster, it is necessary to glue the artificial stone on some kind of elastic glue (called ST 117) or ordinary glue with the addition of PVA. At the same time, it is strongly advised not to overload: 1 sq. M of the wall should not “hold” more than 20 kg of stones. True, a new composition CT84 has recently appeared for gluing foam. Its pull-off force is greater than that of the classic ST83 glue, therefore (I assume) that the weight of the stone per 1 sq. m can be increased. In my case, I plan to glue about 22 kg per 1 sqm

    Ceresit 117 is very expensive. You can use Ceresit SM 11.

    Yes, and adhesives 83-85 have been around for a long time.
    My father glued “torn stone” on foam plastic - artificial, made from sand and cement, on the corners of the building - it has been holding for about 10 years already.
    In general, the question of whether the foam will withstand is a simple one. The more anchors, the greater the bearing capacity.

15. Registration: 06.06.08 Messages: 46 Thanks: 89
    

    Try artificial stone, it is much lighter. Only the mesh must be necessarily not plaster, but (well, I'm not a builder) with 1x1 cm cells, steel and not very rusty. and at home I glued it on the isod to the pool glue, since although the overhangs are 100 cm, it’s still damp at the blind area with an oblique doge. The third year - the stone both rang when tapped, and rings

So, before finishing the penoplex, you need to prepare a certain set of materials:

• adhesive primer, for example, Ceresit CT19;
• Ceresit CT83 glue or its equivalent;
• fiberglass mesh for outdoor use;
• perforated corners;
• universal facade primer;
• decorative facade plaster;
• facade paint.

Glue Ceresit CT83

In addition, you should prepare the following inventory:

• needle roller or metal brush;
• a set of spatulas;
• plaster grinder;
• building level;
• construction mixer or drill with a special nozzle;
• paint roller and pallet;
• paint brush;
• mounting knife.

Now you can get to work.

Needle roller for foam processing

Reinforcement preparation

Preparation for reinforcement is the most critical stage of work, since it depends on it, the adhesion of finishing materials to the foam, respectively, and the durability of the entire finish. Execution instructions preparatory work looks like that:

1. first of all the surface of the extruded polystyrene foam must be roughened. To do this, treat the insulation with a needle roller or a metal brush. You can also use the usual sandpaper, stretched on a jointer;

The surface of the foam must be rough

1. then the surface should be additionally treated with an external adhesive primer. To do this, pour liquid into the roller tray and dip the roller itself into it. During the application, make sure that the primer lays down in a thin, even layer.
   After the first layer of soil dries, the procedure is repeated again;
2. then you need to stick perforated corners on the outer corners of the foam using Ceresit CT83 glue. In the process of their installation, use the building level so that they are located strictly vertically or horizontally.

That's all the nuances of preparation. Now you can start reinforcing the foam.

Penoplex reinforcement

Reinforcement

Do-it-yourself foam reinforcement is carried out as follows:

1. First of all, cut the fiberglass mesh into sheets of the desired length. Keep in mind that the mesh should be placed with a twist at the corners and an overlap of about 100 mm;
2. then prepare the Ceresit CT83 glue according to the instructions on the package;
3. after that, apply glue to the area according to the size of the mesh with a thickness of about 5-7 mm;
4. then treat the area covered with glue with a notched trowel, while discarding the excess glue that will remain on the trowel back into the container with glue;
5. now attach the mesh to the glue, having previously leveled it, and iron it with an even wide spatula. As a result, the mesh should be completely immersed in the adhesive;
6. according to this scheme, it is necessary to reinforce the entire surface of the insulation;
7. after hardening, drying of the surface, you need to apply another layer of glue about 3 mm thick. For the second layer, you can make the adhesive thinner to make it easier to work with.

In the process of applying the second layer, try to get rid of all the flaws in the surface, as if you were filling the walls.

This completes the reinforcement of the insulation.

Application decorative plaster

decorative trim

Decorative finishing of penoplex outside is carried out as follows:

1. start work with surface treatment with universal facade primer. This work is carried out according to the scheme described above;
2. then you need to mix decorative plaster in water according to the instructions from the manufacturer, which is available on the package;
3. then the surface is covered with decorative plaster using a bevel or a wide spatula. The solution should be applied as thinly as possible.

In the photo - mashing decorative plaster

1. after 5-7 minutes, when the plaster begins to set on the walls, grouting is performed. To do this, place the malka flat, and, slightly pressing it against the plaster, make circular or reciprocating movements with your hand;
2. after the decorative plaster dries, you can start painting the facade. The easiest way to do this work is with a paint facade roller.

Try to apply the paint in a thin, even layer, and, of course, avoid streaks. To qualitatively paint over the surface, paint in two or even three layers.

It is necessary to apply decorative plaster within one wall in one go, i.e. without interruption. Otherwise, the transition will be evident even after painting.

On this exterior finish completed. I must say that you can use penoplex for interior decoration walls, for example, if you need to insulate a loggia or balcony. In this case, instead of decorative plaster, you can cover the reinforced surface with putty and then any top coat.

Conclusion

Despite poor adhesion, penoplex is quite amenable to finishing, which allows it to be used as facade insulation. The only thing is that this procedure requires strict adherence to technology. Especially responsibly it is necessary to approach the preparation of the surface of the insulation for reinforcement.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Latest replies on the forum

• Cinder block walls

  How to sheathe walls from cinder block

• Walls

  Hello. Tell me, can I put a decorative stone on a putty wall?

• Bathroom wall cladding question

  Good day. Having studied quite a lot of information, I could not come to an unequivocal conclusion. Maybe you can help me. Situation …

• Mystic... scary

  Dear members of the forum, I want to know if anyone had anything like this .. I’ll say right away that alcohol and nothing else that fogs my brain, I don’t ...

You may be interested

The plaster of the basement and the foundation of the building is designed to perform several tasks at once. Such work allows you to get high-quality protection of the base from an aggressive external environment, extend the operational life of the structure and can become a real decoration of the exterior of the household.

Plinth plaster

Finishing the basement of the house

Selection rules

The main plastering is carried out by means of cement mortar, over which decorative layers are often applied.

The plastering of the plinth must be carried out in accordance with the requirements

Therefore, such a vapor-permeable material must have a high adhesion coefficient and good strength, and also meet the following basic requirements, including:

• the presence of sufficient biochemical stability;
• high rates of fire safety;
• increased hydrophobic qualities;
• resistance to low temperatures and ultraviolet;
• durability and environmental safety;
• ease of use and ease of independent work.

Plinth finished with plaster

Properly selected and high-quality basement plaster mixture allows not only to imitate the texture of almost any finishing material, but will also serve as an additional protection to the main layer.

Decorative plaster of the plinth

Main types

There are currently various material, suitable for facing the basement of the building, but due to durability, reliability and quality, it is plaster that occupies a leading position.

Mosaic plaster for plinth

Cement plaster VOLMA-SOCKOL

Cement plaster Yunis-Silin

Self-made plaster mixture

Traditionally the most popular among domestic developers and inexpensive option basement plasters are a variety of mixtures, which are based on cement and sand. To make such a working solution for plastering the basement of the building on your own, you will need to purchase the following materials:

• medium-grained sand, sifted through a metal fine-mesh sieve;
• cement mixture grade M400 or grade M500;
• pure water.

The standard ratio for a part of M400 cement is three parts of sand. When using the M500 brand, you will need not three, four parts of sifted sand. The amount of water is selected individually, but the finished working solution must necessarily be completely homogeneous, with a characteristic creamy consistency. To increase plasticity, it is recommended to supplement the solution with PVA glue or polymer dispersion.

Construction pva glue, universal

If necessary, special coloring pigments are added to obtain a decorative plastered surface.

Step 1. We sift river or high-quality building sand through a metal mesh sieve in the required amount.

How to sift sand

Step 2 We add the required amount of cement to the sifted sand, gradually mixing both loose ingredients. If dry coloring pigments are used, they are also added at this stage of the work.

Cement and sand

Dyes for cement

Step 3 If water-soluble dyes are to be used, then they should be diluted in water, observing the proportion according to the manufacturer's instructions, and then gradually poured into the mixture of bulk components.

Step 4 Pour the remaining volume of water into the mixture based on bulk components and mix the plaster mortar thoroughly, bringing it to a state of thick sour cream.

In the photo, the preparation of plaster

plaster mortar

Surface preparation

Plinth before renovation

Release the bottom of the wall from contact with the ground

The basement of any structure is often not only a monolith extending the foundation base, but can also be represented by various superstructures made of foamed fiberblock or brick. Depending on the version of the base part, carrying out preparatory activities will have some differences that must be taken into account in order to obtain the highest quality and durable plastered surface.

Brick base preparation

A feature of the preparation of this type of basement surface is the presence of a seam space, which is filled with cement mortar. After a certain period of time, such a solution actively dries up and crumbles, which can manifest itself in the formation of cracks of various sizes, and sometimes even very significant gaps in depth and width.

At the stage of preparing the brick base, it is very important to thoroughly clean and remove all crumbled or weakly adhering particles and fragments using a narrow construction brush and a metal bristle brush. All cracks formed as a result of such work must be completely cleaned, removing small elements, sand and a layer of dust.

All loose plaster is beaten off with a hammer or chisel.

Remove any fragments of plaster that do not adhere well.

To thoroughly remove all plaster residue, use a wire brush.

The detected defects in the masonry are moistened before repairing the lining of the brick basement

To fill the existing voids, you should pick up bricks of the appropriate size

The next step in repairing the basement with your own hands is to fill the voids with prepared bricks and fix them with masonry mortar.

Before plastering the surface, it must be thoroughly moistened.

Preparation of concrete base

Such a surface option will also require careful preliminary preparation, which will consist in the removal of poorly fixed and heavily worn masonry fragments, as well as their competent replacement. The loosened element must be dismantled, high-quality cleaning and return to its original place, with fixation on a standard cement-sand mixture.

Plinth preparation

Preparation of concrete-cement base

If during the visual inspection of the concrete-cement basement it was possible to identify defects in the form of deep cracks, then it is very important to check the strength of their edges and carefully remove all parts that crumble or crumble. If there are signs of even partial displacement of the foundation base, it is strengthened. Small cracks and potholes after preliminary cleaning are leveled with a conventional cement mixture.

Priming

All surfaces that need to be protected from plaster, such as window frames, must be covered with masking tape

You can get a durable and high-quality plaster coating only with correct application primer deeply penetrating composition in two layers. If it is supposed to paint the basement, then only a facade primer is used for processing, which has maximum drooping abilities. Only use quality materials and compliance technological requirements By preliminary preparation grounds for applying plaster can significantly increase the period of operation and improve the appearance.

Primer

Silicone quartz primer ST 15 Ceresit

If further execution of decorative finishing works, then it is advisable to give preference to a facade adhesive or acrylic-based primer.

Primer for decorative plasters

Plinth primer

Plastering tool

To properly produce plastering work on the basement of the building, it is necessary to prepare in advance not only Consumables, but also the entire set of tools through which measures will be taken to apply mixtures:

• construction spatulas different sizes or trowel;
• construction beacons;
• metal grid;
• lacing for marking;
• container for working solution.

Plastering tool

Plastering technology

It is not difficult to perform standard plastering activities on your own, but you need to take into account some features of the basement of the building, as well as adhere to the basic rules of the technology for performing such work.

Step 1. We apply notches on the surface that contribute to the best adhesion plaster mortar with plinth surface. For this purpose, it is necessary to make notches with a depth of a couple of millimeters using a metal object with a sharp tip.

Step 2 If necessary, we clean out all large cracks and produce quality alignment all protrusions on the surface under the plaster, and also apply a second layer of priming mortar.

Step 3 If it is supposed to pre-insulate the basement, then by means of mounting frost-resistant foam we fix the insulation on the surface in the form of sheet foam.

Step 4 With the help of special dowels, a chain-link mesh with cells measuring 20 x 20 mm is installed.

Pinned grid

Step 5 We expose "beacons", which allow not only to align. foundation, but also facilitate the work of plastering the basement. For this purpose, we draw the border lines of the plaster layer according to the level, and on the corner part and every couple of meters we set vertically directed pins, between which the threads are also stretched.

Step 6 We throw the solution over the pegs up to the threads, after which we set it by pressing the “beacons” into the mixture.

Plastering the plinth on the chain-link

Plastering on the grid

Do-it-yourself plastering of the basement

To make a uniform transition in structure from old plaster to a new one, you can process the joints with foam plastic

On final stage a little "grasped" on the basement surface plaster mixture must be very carefully and carefully aligned.

When the surface dries, it is leveled with a plaster trowel.

You can use a special angle spatula

The last stage of repairing the basement of a private house is to treat surfaces in contact with the ground. To do this, you can use waterproofing slurry or bituminous mastic.

Basement plastering work completed

Do-it-yourself basement repair

Features of decorative finishes

All further activities will depend on how it is supposed to make the basement of the structure attractive and durable. As a rule, coloring compositions are used as a finishing material, as well as facing tiles and decorative relief plasters, so you need to dry the starting layer correctly, using a waterproof film coating able to protect the surface from rain and sun for three weeks. At the drying stage, the surface must be moistened with clean water twice every day.

It is very popular and in demand to decorate the plinth by creating a relief surface using a pre-made stencil, with the imprint of which it will be possible to obtain a pattern that imitates stone or brickwork. It is fashionable to apply the same pattern using a long and thin object, making grooves in a still fresh plastered surface.

• the preparation of the basement should involve the special care of the measures taken, including work on breaking off convex layers, removing bubbles and exfoliated elements;
• before priming, it is mandatory to thoroughly remove dirt and dust deposits with a stiff brush;

  Foundation preparation

• the plaster layer should be sufficient, not less than five centimeters thick, and the exposed beacons should get the correct geometry. If necessary, it is recommended to strengthen the corners with the help of special corner profiles;

  Corner plaster mesh profile

• the standard distance between the installed "beacons" should not be equal to or greater than the length of the rule used to level the finishing mixture, and from the extreme "beacons" to the corner part should be approximately 25 cm;

  In the photo - plastering the basement on lighthouses

• plastering is carried out along the grid, so you need to fill the reinforcing frame base at a distance of a couple of centimeters from the wall, using a mushroom dowel to fix it, at the rate of 15-20 fasteners for each square meter processed surface;
• to get the best grip you need to do a clean spray of water. The second plaster layer can be applied with a trowel or mechanized means can be used.

It is important to note that the full drying of the plastered surface takes about three weeks, after which priming and topcoating can be carried out. coloring compositions, but it is strictly forbidden to artificially accelerate drying, using for this purpose heat guns, building hair dryers or other technique.

The plaster of the basement of the house is painted in a tone that matches the color of the walls

Video - Cement plaster Volma Sokol

Video - Plastering the foundation "under the stone"

When facing facades, mistakes are made very often. You can find a lot of examples by walking just one block in any city. Describing and listing all the mistakes will be inefficient in terms of memorization. It is better to dwell on a specific case and highlight the mistakes that the builders made when facing a particular building with artificial stone.

High-quality artificial stone can be compared with natural stone in terms of durability. This is with the condition that in the manufacture, production technology is strictly observed. In general, such products are made on the basis of fine fraction concrete. This means that the production uses vibrating tables, polymer additives that reduce the water-cement ratio. Cement arrives for production without intermediaries, as fresh as possible. The sand used is clean, without clay impurities. In addition, the temperature and humidity conditions of hardening must be observed. Even a cursory glance at the above shows that it is more difficult for artificial stone to overtake natural or ceramic tiles in terms of quality.

Therefore, facing with such a stone must be approached even more scrupulously than with other facing materials.

I copied this phrase from the website of the manufacturer of artificial stone:

“Firstly, many surfaces (in particular, concrete and brick) do not require any special training when laying this material, as they have similar physical characteristics ". What did they want to say? Can the brick walls of the facade be faced with artificial stone?

Facing with artificial stone

First lining error.

The basis is plastered long before the start of work Brick wall. Prior to this, the plaster itself fell off after winter frosts.

And then they hung slabs of artificial stone. All this will last until next spring at most. For the sake of interest, it will be possible to check in April 2013.

Condition of the wall surface before facing.

Second lining error.

The stone is attached not just to the facade, but this section of the wall also serves as a container for flowers. All this is made of red brick without the slightest hint of waterproofing. Autumn rains will well saturate the soil and bricks, and winter frosts will transform everything into a pile of artificial stones.

P.S.

In a few days, some changes have taken place on the porch, which somewhat change the forecast regarding the durability of a particular cladding.

The fact is that the builders used additional fastening of the plates. This is generally a new phenomenon in facing works. Additional mount facing plates with driven dowels. I missed the moment when the dowels were driven in. If this happened at the time of cladding, on non-hardened glue, then this fastener will increase the service life. If the tile was drilled the next day, and most likely with a percussion drill, then this could break the fragile adhesive. And then, the final of this facing can come much earlier.

Additional fastening of facing plates.

Another useful operation performed on this facade is painting!

A good facade paint closes all the pores and microcracks on the facade and prevents moisture from getting behind the cladding. This small detail increases the life of the cladding by several times.

If it were not for the flower bed, in the body of the porch, we can safely predict the service life of such a cladding of 5-6 years. So far, this forecast has improved, but not by much.

….Four months have passed.

The summer has passed. Heating during the day, led to the expansion of the cladding and walls. Due to different coefficients of linear expansion, cracks appeared between the tile and the structure. They are still small. But winter is ahead. Snow will fall on the upper end, melt and freeze. In the spring, the next inspection of the condition of the porch will take place.

Cracks at the end of the tile and wall.

Another year has passed. May 2013

In one area, the lining cracked at the seams - this is the first sign that the stone has moved away from the wall, and in the other it fell off completely. Plastic dowels did not help, and maybe vice versa they hurt if they clogged the next day. The wall surface is dry, without glue. It could not be primed or the glue was applied only to the stone, in the heat. Or they used cheap glue, not intended for outdoor use.

FEBRUARY 2014. Well, in February 2014, we can sum up the observations.

Facing began to massively fall off and opened inner side slabs and wall. On one side of the porch, the slippers from the glue remained on the wall, and on the other, they moved away from the wall along with the stone. Mounting on the slippers is not very good way fastening artificial stone. But in this case it didn't matter. Even if everything was done correctly - both surfaces (stone and wall) were primed and the glue would be applied with a comb, the stone lining would still fall off. Only it would fall off already with a layer of plaster.

The question of how to make a wall decor under a foam plastic stone with your own hands is quite relevant today. Such decorative panels finish all kinds of surfaces, from edging on mirrors or windows to the entire wall area.

The popularity of the material is due to the light weight of the structure and ease of installation, which is especially important in apartments located in high-rise buildings where the use of heavy bricks is not possible.

We make decor with our own hands

To make an imitation brickwork from polystyrene with your own hands, it is recommended to use polyurethane fine-grained panels, which have good heat resistance and do not crumble.

If it is not possible to purchase such material, you can replace it with ordinary ceiling tiles.

In addition, you need to prepare the following materials and tools in advance:

• stationery knife;
• electric soldering iron;
• glue, putty;
• primer, varnish.

In addition, sheets of building extruded polystyrene foam can be used, since it has characteristics that are ideal for this purpose.

Check out comparative physical properties materials can be found in the table below.

Work order

Finishing a wall or a separate element of a room under a brick or a natural stone favorably transforms the surface, making it more aesthetic and attractive. In addition, the material is good heat insulator, therefore it will act as a heater.

Procedure self-manufacturing tiles looks like this:

In addition to the described method, there is another option for making imitation brickwork from foam. It differs from the first one in that not only a light heat insulator is used for this, but also cement with quartz sand. Detailed instructions for brick imitation, see this video:

Based on the fact that other components are used, the order of work on their manufacture will also differ. However, it should be noted that there is nothing complicated in it, and even a person who has never done similar work can cope with it:

The procedure for both manufacturing methods is not difficult. The result will not keep you waiting, but will delight you with the transformed look of the room immediately after application.

To emphasize the effect of the natural equivalent, and the surface that imitates the stone is more like a real one, it is recommended to use paint in several shades. In this case, the main color is pre-coated, and the secondary shades are done with a dry brush.

cold wall in the kitchen I insulated with foam plastic *, and at the same time received beautiful decor in the form of red mountain sandstone.

It took: foam sheet (1x1.5 m, 2 cm thick), felt-tip pen (you can use a marker), knife, primer, finishing putty, acrylic paint, acrylic lacquer.

Sheet preparation

carved texture

On a note
Penoplex is well cut with an ordinary knife, practically leaves no debris and does not crumble. In places where the seams turned out to be narrow or the stones turned out to be longer and did not lay out evenly, I cut them with a knife right on the wall.

wall pasting

Painting

Similarly designed the corner under the ceiling (photoZ). After painting and varnishing, such a decorative stone has become very hard and is in no way inferior to gypsum counterparts.

Final stage

I crumpled up a sheet of paper and walked it over the area with the solution, imitating the texture of the stone. After 20 minutes, I drew the outline of the stones with the handle of a teaspoon. Dried up. Primed. Painted by analogy with foam sandstone (photo 4).

Svetlana Laktionova, Lozovaya.
Author's photo

* Penoplex (extruded polystyrene foam) - environmentally friendly thermal insulation material, not subject to decay, with low thermal conductivity, minimal water absorption and high strength.

Our advice