How to make a hipped roof at home. The device of the truss system of the hipped roof

Presentable appearance, reliability, durability - all this is a hipped roof, the drawing, calculation and installation of which, of course, is quite difficult to do on your own, but you can always turn to qualified specialists for help.

A noticeable advantage of hipped roofs is that it is very convenient to equip attic floors in such buildings. The premises are very comfortable and spacious, ideal for living, unlike houses, for example, with gable roofs.

Currently, more and more buildings made according to such a plan began to appear. The advantage of a multi-pitched roof is the possibility of using it on completely different buildings, from a bathhouse to a large private cottage.

Houses with hipped roofs look really solid and expensive, and therefore, you should not spare time and money for its arrangement.

The main types of hipped roofs

There are no pediments (these are the triangular completions of the facades of a building, bounded on the sides by two roof slopes, and at the base by a cornice) on such a roof there are no, and attic windows are placed in the slopes.

This roof is much more economical than a gable roof in terms of the cost of wall building materials, but the inclined ribs at the junctions of the hips and frontal slopes require the installation of a very complex truss structure and additional measurement and adjustment of the roofing material.

The slopes are often made with different levels of inclination, due to which the silhouette of a sloping roof is created.

Semi-hip (Danish) design. It differs from the previous one in the presence of a pediment, which has a small hip at the top. Protection from wind loads in such a roof is provided by a ridge (the upper horizontal edge of the roof, formed due to the intersection of two slopes). Most often, such a roofing device is found in regions with frequent strong winds.

Tent construction. It looks like a pyramid: four triangular slopes, converging at the tops in one place. Such roofs do not have gables; they are erected on small buildings in the form of an equilateral polygon or square. Installation of a truss system on such a roof is very difficult.

Creating a pitched roof project

Before starting work on the arrangement of the roof, it is necessary to design it, carry out calculations for the structure, and also create its drawing.

The project of a hipped roof provides that the slope of the slopes of such a roof can be in the range from 5 to 60 degrees. It depends on atmospheric loads, the purpose of the attic and the type of roofing materials used.

In areas with frequent and heavy precipitation, the slope of the slopes should be significant (from 45 to 60 degrees). In regions with strong winds and rare rains, the slope of the slopes is usually made much less.

If the angle of inclination is approximately 5-18 degrees, the use of a roll coating is recommended; 14-60 - asbestos-cement sheets, roofing metal; 30-60 - tiles.

The height of the roof ridge is calculated using a trigonometric expression for right triangles.

Calculation of rafters is the beginning of drawing up the entire project of the house. Their cross section is determined depending on the expected load (weight of truss structures, roof pie, external influences), and the degree of slope of the roof. With the help of calculations, the step between the rafters is also determined, their bearing capacity is checked.

The plan of the rafters of a hipped roof provides for which rafters it is advisable to use - layered or hanging. It also turns out whether additional elements are needed: braces, puffs, etc.

If it happens that the standard lumber parameters are not suitable for the future roof, you can modify them. For example, you can lengthen the rafters or double the beams. You can also use glued or type-setting rafter legs (they are noticeably more powerful and longer than usual).

The impact of loads on the rafter system

The rafters are subjected to constant (mass of roofing, battens, rafters, etc.) and temporary (wind, precipitation) loads. The main design parameter of snow load, adopted in Russia for the middle lane, is 180 kg / m?. A snow bag can increase this figure to 400-450 kg/m².

If the roof slope is greater than 60 degrees, the snow load is not taken into account.

The standard design value of the wind load for central Russia is 35kg/m².

If the roof slope is less than 30 degrees, the wind correction is not taken into account in the drawing.

The load parameters are adjusted for local climate conditions through special coefficients. The total mass of the roof is calculated based on the amount of materials used and the total area of \u200b\u200bthe structure.

Payload indicators for the system are included in the calculations if ceilings are suspended from the trusses, water-heating tanks, ventilation chambers, etc. are installed.

It is obligatory to calculate the strength of the rafters and the degree of possible deformation under various conditions.

The most commonly used as rafters are: a rectangular beam with a section corresponding to the calculated loads, boards with parameters 5x15, 5x20 cm.

Most often, the choice is stopped on softwood lumber (spruce, pine) with a moisture content in the range of 18-22%, treated with antiseptics and fire retardants.

To increase the rigidity and stability of the geometry of the truss system of a multi-pitched roof, steel elements are sometimes introduced.

Installation and installation of the truss system

Before proceeding with the installation, you need to select the necessary materials and tools. In addition, it would be nice to get a drawing of the entire structure on paper. Of the materials you will definitely need: thermal insulation (mineral wool, for example), waterproofing, vapor barrier, wooden beams, roofing material, wood for the crate. Necessary tools: drill, screwdriver, hammer, nails, self-tapping screws, level, tape measure, measuring stick, etc.

The scheme of a hipped roof assumes the presence of rafters, support beams, braces, and other elements necessary to stiffen the entire structure.

Rafters having a cross section of 5 × 15 cm will add reliability to the structure. When you go shopping for lumber for rafters, don't go for wet, twisted, or severely flawed lumber.

Roofing is always done from the bottom up. First of all, support beams (Mauerlat) are laid, on which rafters are subsequently installed. So you get a lower frame, which should extend beyond the walls by 40-50 cm. It is not desirable that the rafters protrude from the edges of the walls exceed the limits specified above, otherwise the object will look inharmonious.

Do not forget to check the correct installation using the building level.

If the building has wooden walls, support beams are not needed, since the upper crown of the log house will act as a Mauerlat.

After that, frame rafter legs are installed from each corner of the building, they are called oblique (diagonal). The upper parts of the rafter legs, if necessary, can be supported by a system of braces and racks. Their main task is to unload the rafters by redistributing the load along the internal walls or supporting pillars, and also to give the entire structure sufficient rigidity.

Special care should be taken with the attachment points of the rafter legs to the Mauerlat. These are the main points that are responsible for the strength of the truss system as a whole. The overhang of a hipped roof is regulated by the length of the diagonal rafters.

A special table of coefficients will help in the work with the length ratios presented in it and the laying of the rafters for different slopes of the roof slope. In one of its columns, the coefficients for intermediate ones are indicated, in the other - for the corner rafter legs. In order to calculate the required length of the rafter, multiply the laying by the coefficient. You can easily find such a table on the Internet.

In those places where there are no load-bearing walls, the heels of the rafters can be placed on the longitudinal beams (side runs). In addition, a beam is mounted in the center, it is mounted on three supports: in the middle and at both ends.

If you have a large roof area, you can not do without the arrangement of truss trusses, which will take on part of the load from the rafters. Sprengel trusses need puffs on which they will rely. Sometimes they can be fixed on existing transverse or longitudinal beams.

The parameters associated with the height and degree of slope of the roof are determined precisely by the height of the rafters and the horizontal upper beam (ridge run).

After installing the guide rafters, proceed to the construction of the main frame. Attach the inclined (outdoor) rafters to the support beams, as well as to the ridge run.

They should be installed in increments of 40-50 cm, no more. If the gaps are too large, the rafter system may not withstand the loads from the snow that has fallen. The scheme of the truss roof system must take into account this fact.

Fasten the inclined rafters together at a distance of about a meter from the upper rafter beam. This can be done using boards with a cross section of at least 4 * 12 cm.

It is not necessary to select outdoor rafters strictly in length, because they will most likely have to be cut. The main thing is to make sure that they are not too short.

in order to reduce the likelihood of errors to a minimum, use not a tape measure, but a special measuring rod when measuring;
mark the center line along the top trim of the end wall. After that, measure half the thickness of the ridge beam, draw the placement line of the first of all the central intermediate rafters;
align the end of the lath and the placement line of the rafter that you marked a little earlier. On the other end of the measuring rail, copy the line of the inner contour of the side wall (thus you will lay the intermediate rafter). Transfer the line of the outer contour of the wall and the overhang of the roof to the measuring rail;
to determine the future location of the second of the central rafters, move the measuring rail to the wall from the side, transfer the desired laying of the rafters to it from the inner corner of the upper trim;
repeat the entire algorithm of actions in each of the corners. Following this scheme, you will determine the location of the ends of the ridge beam, as well as all the central intermediate rafters.

After installing the truss system in accordance with the plan, they make a crate, vapor barrier, waterproofing, counter-lattice, as well as roof insulation.

The final stage of the construction of a hipped roof

After installing the entire structure, a hipped roof (like any other) provides for the creation of a crate. For this purpose, wooden boards with a thickness of 50 or 40 mm are used. The main thing is that the material is of high quality and well dried.

Before installing the crate, it is necessary to lay a film that insulates the roof from steam and moisture. Such a film is attached with a stapler. In addition, in no case should you lose sight of the thermal insulation that should be equipped in the attic. Thermal insulation is necessary to maintain a normal temperature in the building. And after that, the installation of a hipped roof is carried out.

And the last stage is laying the roofing. You are not limited in choice, be guided by your own taste, material capabilities and design features of your roof. The main thing is to attach the material firmly enough, carefully, so that rain cannot penetrate into the room through the joints, and the wind cannot tear off fragments of the roof.

The scheme of the hip roof truss system is very complex, as has been said more than once above, but do not be afraid of it. The most important thing is to make all the calculations and measurements correctly, and also not to make a mistake with the markup. Having thoroughly understood this once, you can easily repeat a similar construction. Of course, it will be quite difficult for one person to cope with the amount of work ahead, so a couple of assistants will not hurt.

In our country, you can find buildings of various types. This also applies to the types of roofing houses. The four-slope roof, as the most common type of upper part of buildings, enjoys well-deserved authority for its relative simplicity of construction. Its construction does not require architectural knowledge. Therefore, the construction of such a structure on its own will not take much time, effort, and will not even require serious financial costs.

Complex structure design

Before starting work, you will need a sketch of the future design. It is more rational to calculate the design of the roof along with the building itself, when the system of its fastening is mounted in the walls in advance.

Roof appearance sketch must take into account the local features of neighboring housing construction, so that the future creation does not look pretentious. At the same time, it can have its own original design, thereby standing out from the background of similar buildings.

The simplest and cheapest option is a pitched roof with one "working" surface. This option is used for non-capital, utility rooms and extensions to the main building. For residential or presentable capital real estate, a shed building is unacceptable.

The design of such a building is best left in the hands of professional construction companies, which will help create not only a beautiful view of the building, but also provide for high quality and durability of the coating. Experts will help you decide on a coating for such a roof, advise the best manufacturers at affordable prices, and also make sure that further installation is simple and quick.

Multi-pitched roofs

The variety of modern buildings is amazing. At the same time, for each type of building, a separate type of roof is being designed today. They are considered the most practical and have an aesthetic appearance.

Multi-pitched roof has two or more inclined surfaces, which forms an attic with a system for attaching such a roof. It is worth noting that the attic space in this case can be advantageously used for useful living space in a dwelling.

There are a lot of designs of multi-pitched roofs, their choice depends on the desire and financial capabilities of its future owner. The most common are hipped roofs. They are always elegant, reliable and easy to repair.

Tent, hip and Danish

It is not surprising that these coatings for houses have taken the honorable place of the leader in our country. They not only look harmonious, but also have a long service life. And repair work on them can be carried out both on their own and using the services of qualified specialists and professional construction companies.

The main types of this type of structures:

Shatrovaya.
Hip.
Half hip (Dutch or Danish).

A feature of the hipped roof is one upper corner above the center of the building. It is formed by the convergence of the inclined surfaces of the roof into it.

For hip roofs, two forms of inclined surfaces are inherent:

trapezoid;
triangular.

The triangular surface is called the "hip". At the same time, the trapezoidal surfaces that are interconnected from above form a horizontal joint in the form of a line called a “ridge”. If the hip has a broken surface, for example, under vertical glazing (Danish version), or the trapezoidal sides of the roof have bevels (Dutch version), then these types of roofs are called semi-hip.

The half-hip roof is a wonderful touch in the decoration of the entire building.

Mounting Features

A four-pitched roof, like other types of roofs, is mounted on a wooden square or rectangle made of beams. It's called Mauerlat. Mauerlat is rigidly attached to the upper part of the walls and fixed on them in such a way as to prevent it from shifting or falling off along with the roof under the influence of winds.

The convergence of inclined surfaces at the hipped roof is provided by a vertical beam, a rack, the installation of which can be a Mauerlat design. For light structures such as arbors, a vertical beam is sometimes absent.

The convergence of the trapezium at the hip roof fixed on a ridge beam. This is the topmost part of the roof (not counting the chimney). Diagonal rafters connect the corners of the Mauerlat to the two edges of the ridge. The joints of the triangular and trapezoidal sides of the roof are fixed to them.

The longest vertically inclined beams on which soft and hard roofs are laid are called hip and trapezoid rafters. In this case, the latter are divided into main and intermediate. The main ones fix both edges of the ridge, the intermediate ones are located between them. Rafters of shorter length are called shortened or "spiders". The first are mounted on the edges of the trapezoidal slopes, the second - on the hip.

The fixation of the Mauerlat, all types of rafters, the ridge between themselves is carried out by braces, puffs, struts, which are short beams. Sometimes "kerchiefs" are used, surfs cut from wide boards. In shape, they are triangles or trapezoids and are used as an additional fixation to inclined beams.

Fastening of all these parts of the roof structure is carried out with nails at least 200 mm long and staples corresponding to this size. The thickness of the side and bearing bars has dimensions in diameter of 150 by 200 mm. For the rest, it is enough to have a diameter of 50 × 100 mm and 100 × 150 mm. The boards that carry the roof are 20 × 100 mm in diameter. The distance between the rafters under the slopes in most cases is 200 mm.

Be sure to provide for cornice overhangs for the drain - the continuing parts of the inclined surfaces of the roof, protruding beyond the dimensions of the building itself.

Hip construction of the surface of the house

The four-slope hip roof can have glazing on the hip or without it. Triangular glazing is located directly under the edges of the ridge and provides satisfactory visibility in the attic in daylight conditions. In addition, mounted vents allow you to periodically ventilate the attic. The glazing of the attic allows it to be designed in the form of an attic.

If a Dutch or Danish semi-hip roof is chosen, then the length of the small part of the hip should be 2.5–3 times less than the rest of the sloping surface.

With reference to the end distribution of the wind rose relative to the roof, it is advisable to build a Dutch type of half-hip. Then the window is mounted in a solid wall, and the hip upper bevel of the roof perceives end wind loads better than with a built-in Danish window.

Do-it-yourself roof installation

Do-it-yourself hipped roof, quite a doable task. The uniqueness of this type of construction lies in the fact that all construction work can easily be done independently. However, experts recommend at least consulting with specialists before starting work.

To start work, the following conditions are required:

a spacious building site with a seating area;
a zone for lifting building materials to the dome construction sites;
manual load-lifting mechanisms;
no sources of open fire on the leeward side.

After the sketch is ready, it is advisable to carry out a trial fitting at the place of the Mauerlat and the rack with the sprengel, rafters and struts. This will make it possible to assess the actual complexity of the work and in advance to supplement the places of their installation with auxiliary means to ensure safety.

Process of creation

The Mauerlat is installed first. Usually, it is fixed to the walls of the building on anchor bolts or on a pre-prepared reinforced belt with studs, on which the Mauerlat is mounted. A waterproofing material is laid under it.

To provide cornice overhangs, puffs are mounted on the Mauerlat. They can have a solid length and subsequently form the base of the floor, logs.

In parallel, the production of a sprendel truss is underway. Its fixation should be carried out in mounted puffs. The farm and racks are fixed with strut beams. The verticality of the installation of the racks is checked with a plumb line and a level device.

The four-pitched hip roof will require further fastening of the ridge to both racks. The ridge is reinforced with braces and scarves. For a tented four-slope structure, a scarf around the perimeter of the rack is required.

After that, the required bevel angle of the ridge or kerchief stand is checked with twine from the installed top to the edge of the puff, if necessary, it is adjusted manually. Further laying of beams begins with diagonal rafters. Seats for puffs are cut out in them and the corners for the skate are bevelled.

The main and hip rafters are mounted with maximum precision, which ensures that they form a single slope plane with the side rafters. After a visual check, the rest of the rafters and sprues are mounted. Ensuring the strength of the Dutch or Danish hip is achieved by inclined supports, slope beams and scarves.

Upon completion of laying all the beams, the surface upholstery boards are installed. If interior decoration is provided, then it is done first. A vapor barrier layer is laid on such a filing, then a heater, and waterproofing on it. And only after that the fastening of the fixing horizontal boards is carried out. A soft roof or metal tile is laid on the resulting lattice.

Drainage on roofs

The final stage of the installation of the roof is the equipment of its drainage system. Here, additional finishing of the entire structure is possible due to the parts of the slopes or puff beams protruding beyond the dimensions of the building.

The catchment gutters are fixed in place, taking into account their inclination to the catchment vertical pipes. It is worth noting that such structures are extremely important for houses of any type. So, weirs not only ensure the dryness of the foundation of the house, but also allow in the winter season to avoid the formation of ice and freezing.

With the help of a simple installation of weirs, you can not only protect your house from dampness, but also significantly increase its service life.

Most often, a hipped roof for a house is chosen because of its external attractiveness, not taking into account that this design has other advantages: the ability to withstand large wind loads, increase the level of protection of walls from moisture, and allow equipping living quarters in the attic space.

Do-it-yourself four-pitched roof. A photo

Four slopes are considered the best option for regions with strong winds and high rainfall. When deciding to build a hipped roof on your own, it must be taken into account that this design is t Requires accurate drawings and increased attention to measurements and markings.

Preparatory work

The main difference between a four-pitched (hip) roof with four slopes and a design with two slopes is the absence of the need for side gables. The four-slope structure consists of two trapezoidal and two triangular slopes, the latter replacing the pediments.

Under the roof, there can be just an attic or a residential attic. The construction of a hipped roof begins with determining its purpose and selecting materials, taking into account climate features. It is important to take into account the amount of precipitation and the strength of the wind when choosing the angles of the slopes, the thickness of the materials for the wooden components and the type of roof.

Important! The slope of the slopes can vary from 5 to 60° . The stronger the winds and the more precipitation, the greater the slope.

Wooden components should be thicker than for a gable structure. If the slope does not exceed 18 °, roll materials are suitable for roofing. With a slope of 18-30 °, it is better to choose metal or ceramic tiles.

h calculation do-it-yourself pitched roof. A photo

Upon completion of the first stage, an accurate roofing scheme. You need to know what materials and in what volumes you need to buy.

Stages of building a hipped roof with your own hands

For the construction of a hipped roof, coniferous wood without defects with a moisture content of 18-22% is used. First of all, a foundation is arranged that evenly distributes the load on the supporting structures. A layer is laid around the perimeter of the building waterproofing and mounted Mauerlat- a solid beam 10x15 cm or 15x15 cm. Connections are made into an overlay, metal brackets, plates and corners are used to connect the corners.

The next step in building a hipped roof is bed installation. This is a beam that serves as a support for the racks and is located on the base. Next, racks are mounted on the beds (beam 10x10 or 10x15 cm) with a rafter spacing (no more than 2 meters), a ridge beam (10x20 cm) is installed, temporarily based on special racks.

Important! It is necessary to pay special attention to the angle of mounting racks.

When constructing a hipped roof, it must be taken into account that it consists of 4 planes. Trapezoidal slopes require lateral rafters, for triangular - diagonal (oblique). This is a solid beam 10x15 cm or 10x20 cm, which is mounted in increments of 50-150 cm. If necessary, docking is mounted on lining, fixed in several places.

Do-it-yourself four-pitched roof. A photo

At the points where the rafters rest on the base, you need to make cuts and fix the structure with metal elements. From above, the rafters abut against the ridge beam, connected to the uprights with the help of grooves. To strengthen the structure, it is recommended to use diagonal supports, struts, steel connecting elements.

Roof installation

The final stage of building a hipped roof with your own hands is the installation of a waterproofing layer, a counter-lattice, a crate (or a solid flooring). Fitted on the rafters waterproofing material. Its purpose is to prevent the destruction of the truss system due to the ingress of moisture from the attic under the roofing material. The film is overlapped and fastened with adhesive tape for tightness.

The next step is the device counter-lattices. This is a bar or board treated with an antiseptic. It is attached to the rafters, allows you to fix the waterproofing material, creates an air cushion between the roofing material and the insulation.

For the crate, dry boards 4-5 cm wide are used, which are attached to the counter-crate at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other. If it is not planned to equip living quarters in the attic space, then roofing material is mounted further.

On device warm attic on the rafters from the inside, with the help of staplers, a vapor barrier material (film, foil, glassine) is mounted, preventing moisture from entering the insulation from a warm room. A heat-insulating material with a thickness of 15-20 cm is laid on the vapor barrier.

Benefits of a pitched roof

The construction of a hipped roof allows you to:

convert the attic space into a residential attic, that is, increase the useful area of the house;
increase the level of resistance to external influences in the form of wind and rain, thereby increasing the strength of the roof and extending its life;
make your home look more attractive.

Despite the fact that the planning and installation process requires a lot of time and material costs, do-it-yourself hip roof construction is possible with basic carpenter skills. The household should have: a gasoline, circular saw or a hand saw, a drill, chisels, hammers, a level, a cord, a tape measure. Before starting work, it is advisable to carefully watch the video that is suitable for the content.

A four-pitched roof is a very popular type of roof that allows you to give the house an original look. It is often used in projects of fairly large houses, as it looks more compact and neater than a gable with gables. The design of a hipped roof can be simple or include various elements - dormers and dormer windows, for example, really enliven the structure, make it unique.

A four-pitched roof compares favorably with a gable roof not only in appearance. It protects the building much more reliably from rain, snow and wind. The design of such a roof is more complicated than that of a gable roof, but for a small house or gazebo, a do-it-yourself four-slope roof is not particularly difficult.

Varieties of a hipped roof

A simple hip roof consists of two trapezoidal slopes and two triangular hip roofs. During its construction, techniques are used to make layered rafters and four-pitched rafters.

Four-pitched roof for a country house

The semi-hip roof consists of two trapezoidal slopes and two cut-off hips, under which there is a pediment. This design allows you to make an attic floor with large panoramic windows in the attic and at the same time does not reduce the reliability of the roof.

A hipped roof differs from a simple hip roof in that all its four slopes are exactly the same, they are isosceles triangles converging at one point.

A complex hipped roof may contain vertical attic windows with gables, valleys and adjoining other elements of the building. To perform such a roof, it is better to resort to the services of specialists or use a ready-made project and calculation of materials.

Elements of a pitched roof

A four-pitched roof as a whole consists of the same elements as a gable roof, but the features of its design require the installation of additional frame components. The elements of a hipped roof include:

Mauerlat - a beam laid on the upper part of the outer walls and taking the main load from the roof;
Beds - internal support bars laid on load-bearing walls or columns;
Rafters - lateral and diagonal, or slanting. The side rafters form a trapezoidal roof slope, the sloping rafters form a hip. The hipped roof has no side rafters;
Racks and sprengels - vertical supports supporting the truss system;
A ridge beam or purlin is a horizontal support for the rafters at the top of the roof. It is laid on racks and fixed. The hipped roof is made without a ridge beam;
Puffs or crossbars - horizontal elements connecting the side rafters and not allowing them to move apart;
Narozhniki - elements laid on diagonal rafters and forming a slope frame;
Struts and wind beams - struts that increase the strength of the roof and its ability to withstand loads;
Filly - boards that form the necessary overhang of the roof and are fixed to the rafters in their lower part.

Depending on the design of the roof, other elements can also be used, such as battens, protective strips, cornices above the windows and porch.

To calculate the required amount of materials, you need to draw a sketch of the roof in advance, decide on its shape and dimensions, then draw a scale drawing and calculate the required material.

Technology for the construction of a hipped roof

In order for the load from the rafter system, roofing and snow swept onto the roof in winter to be evenly distributed, longitudinal elements are laid on top of all load-bearing walls - Mauerlat and beds. They are made from a bar 100x150 mm or 150x150 mm, and in some cases from reinforced concrete beams. In self-construction of a house, wood is usually used - this material is easier and more convenient to process, so we will consider it. The beam is placed on the walls and fixed with anchor studs. Studs are installed even during the construction of walls, deepening them into the masonry. In wooden buildings, the upper crown of the frame serves as supports. Between the Mauerlat and the wall, waterproofing is necessarily performed from two layers of roofing material. The beds are placed on the load-bearing partitions on which the support posts will be installed.
If there are no internal partitions in the house or they are not located in the center of the roof, the racks are placed on reinforced floor beams. Overlappings are usually made of boards 50x200 mm. The beam, on which the racks are installed, carries an increased load, so it is made from two spliced boards or from a bar 100x200 mm.
Install the support posts on the beds or floor beams. They are leveled using a plumb line or water level, after which they are fixed with temporary supports from boards to self-tapping screws. Racks are attached to the bed or ceiling with the help of a corner and metal plates-overlays. Racks for a hip simple roof are placed in one row in the center of the roof, under the ridge. The distance between them should not be more than two meters. For the construction of a hipped roof, racks are placed on diagonal lines at an equal distance from the corner. At the same time, the racks should form a rectangle that repeats the shape of the perimeter of the house. The height of the racks is determined by the roof project.
Runs are laid on the racks. For a simple hip roof, this is a ridge run laid on racks and forming a roof ridge. For a hipped roof, the girders are placed on racks in the form of a rectangle. Fix them on the corner and self-tapping screws.
Proceed to install the rafters. The side rafters on a simple hip roof are installed similarly to the rafters of a gable roof: they apply a board with a width similar to the width of the rafter board - 150 mm to the ridge beam in the area of \u200b\u200bthe extreme rack. A template is made on it. The board for the template can be taken not so thick and heavy, 25 mm thickness is enough. On the template, mark the upper gash, with which the rafter will rest on the ridge beam, cut it out. Having attached the template to the ridge, they also mark out the lower gash, with which the rafter will rest on the Mauerlat. The finished template is applied to the ridge run at the installation sites of the side rafters, checking the need to fit each rafter in place. If the template fits perfectly, the rafters are marked and cut according to the template in the right amount. They are installed on the ridge run and Mauerlat and fixed with the help of corners and self-tapping screws or on brackets. The pitch of the rafters is from 0.5 to 1.5 meters.
Diagonal rafters carry an increased load, so they are made of two boards spliced in thickness. The diagonal rafter pattern is performed in a similar way. Diagonal rafters rest on the upright with their upper side, and on the Mauerlat angle with their lower side, so the cuts in the boards must be made at an angle of 45 degrees to the plane of the board.
The distance between the diagonal rafters on the hip slopes is filled with sprigs. They are installed in increments equal to the calculated pitch of the rafters, and the upper part is supported by the diagonal rafter, and the lower part is supported by the Mauerlat. Usually a less thick board is used, since the spears do not carry a significant load. In the upper part of the board, they make a wash down, and according to this template, half of the sprigs are performed, the second half - in a mirror image. The lower cuts are marked in place, and the ends of the sprigs, forming an overhang, are cut along the stretched cord after installation.
The lower quarter of the diagonal rafters experiences the greatest load, so vertical supports - sprengels are placed under them. These racks are placed similarly to ridge racks on reinforced beams - when pre-calculating the floors, you need to immediately lay them. Braces are placed under the side rafters, resting their lower edge on the bed or floor beams, and the upper edge on the rafter leg at an angle of about 45 degrees to the horizon.
Perform a crate. Almost any roofing material can be used on a hipped roof, and the choice between or is a matter of taste and the features of their installation. Often, soft tiles are used as a coating for complex roofs; in this case, the crate is made of solid plywood. The issue is decided depending on the design of the house - when building a residential attic in it, insulation is necessary, but if the attic is cold, it is not easy to build a hipped roof with your own hands, but with a good skill in working with wood and roofing materials, this is quite a doable task. For a better understanding of the construction process, you can also watch the video.

A four-pitched hip roof is considered a rather complex and material-intensive structure, which few homeowners undertake to build with their own hands. But if you decide on independent construction, first go through the preparatory path - study the theoretical materials, including those presented in this publication. Then assemble a layout of a small rafter system in order to deal with the nodes, the nuances of their manufacture and the calculation of the amount of timber. So, let’s take the first step and consider…

Design features

This type of roofing structure, shown in the photo, is an ordinary ridge roof, but without vertical gables. Instead, 2 additional slopes are made on the sides of the building - hips with a different slope angle.

Reference. If all 4 planes are tilted at the same angle, then another type of roof will be obtained - hipped roof. Since its slopes converge at one point in the form of a dome, there is no ridge as such.

The hip roof truss system consists of the following elements (shown in the diagram):

mauerlat, bed - a powerful strapping beam mounted on the upper plane of the walls along the perimeter of the building and internal partitions;
roofing slopes are formed due to inclined beams installed with a calculated interval - rafter legs;
together with stiffening elements - puffs, racks and braces - the rafters form roof trusses;
ridge run - a beam connecting the upper points of the trusses;
in some designs, the lower part of the rafter legs is lengthened due to an additional detail - a filly.

Along the line of convergence of the planes, hip rafters are installed, resting on the corners of the building. Their slope coincides with the angle of the main slopes. But the end rafter legs, called sprigs, form steeper or gentler slopes on the sides of the house.

In the construction of 4-pitched roofs, 2 types of trusses are used - hanging and layered. In the first, the lower belt (puff) relies only on the external fences of a private house, therefore it is irrational to put them on too long spans due to the increased consumption of materials for stiffeners. Hanging truss device, see the drawing:

The advantage of layered structures is the ability to rely on a capital interior partition and overlap large spans without increasing material consumption. Roofing beginners should pay attention to these trusses, as they are more reliable and easier to install.

If it is planned to arrange a residential attic on the attic floor, then the slope of the main slopes increases, and the farm receives 2 supports in the form of racks that form the walls of the room. It is customary to put these details on the beds or floor beams of a wooden house. The ceilings of the attic room are formed thanks to horizontal puffs connecting the rafters on top, as done in the diagram:

Hip roof device step by step

Like any serious structure, a hip roof is built by hand in several stages:

Creation of a project with the calculation of load-bearing structures.
Logging and other roofing materials.
Installation of the truss system.
Laying a coating with insulation (if necessary).

Design advice. So that you do not have to worry about the reliability of the building, it is strongly recommended to entrust the design work to engineers, regardless of financial costs. They will calculate all the parameters - the installation step of the rafters, their cross section, the number of struts and puffs in accordance with the weather conditions in your area.

Above, as an example, a drawing of a hipped roof with layered trusses covering 2 spans of 4.5 m is shown. The length of the main rafter legs is 6 m, the height of the ridge is 4 m, the angle of inclination is 41 °. This design can be taken as a basis if the width of the building does not exceed that indicated on the drawing (9 meters). Consider an important point: the more the hips are tilted, the greater the load experienced by the sprigs and the central ridge knot, where they rest. In this example, the hips are best placed at an angle of 45-50 °.

The most difficult thing in the construction of hip roofs is the correct installation of the splicing units of the corner rafters with the Mauerlat and the upper belt of the trusses in different designs. This is another reason to consult with designers who design individual junctions. So that you understand what we are talking about, we present drawings of the upper support node, where the hip rafter leg adjoins the ridge.

Some designs do not provide for the manufacture and installation of a ridge run between trusses. Then the hip ribs are attached to the puff and additional struts, as the drawing prescribes:

The lower support node of the leg on the Mauerlat and the splicing of the rafters looks somewhat simpler, although in reality it requires careful sawing of the boards at various angles, which is reflected in the diagram.

For a visual acquaintance with a more complex system, where the hip is combined with a bay window, we suggest watching a training video:

Lumber selection

Before you make a hip roof truss system, you should choose high-quality and dried wood. In terms of price-quality ratio, the most suitable option is coniferous wood - spruce, larch or pine. Pronounced knotiness, rot and traces of vital activity of insect pests are unacceptable.

We present the most "running" sizes of lumber used for the phased construction of hip roofs:

main rafter - single board 50 x 200 mm or double 40 x 150 mm;
mauerlat: minimum section - 100 x 150 mm, optimal - 20 x 20 cm;
narozhniki - board 5 x 15 cm;
runs - timber 50 x 150 or 50 x 200 mm;
struts, crossbars - a board with a thickness of 25 to 50 mm;
racks - a bar 5 x 10 cm.

A set of mounting plates and corners will also not be superfluous

Note. If roofing structures are calculated for you by design engineers, then they will also draw up a specification of all materials with dimensions.

On the crate for laying corrugated board or metal tiles, boards with a thickness of 25-32 mm are traditionally used, and bars 5 x 5 cm are used on the counter-lattice.

Mounting the strapping beam on the walls

Unlike gable roofs, where the Mauerlat is installed on the side walls, under the hips, the strapping is done around the entire perimeter. An exception is frame, log and lumber houses, where the upper wall crossbar or the last tier of logs acts as a Mauerlat. Then grooves are made in it, where the rafter legs are inserted, as shown in the photo.

On the walls of light cellular stone - aerated concrete and foam block - before laying the strapping, a reinforcing reinforced concrete belt is arranged. Mounting studs are embedded in it, on which a strapping beam is subsequently put on. Step by step the order of work looks like this:

Installation of panel formwork, knitting of the reinforcing cage with embedded parts and pouring the belt with M200 concrete mix.
Waterproofing the concrete surface with roofing felt or bituminous primer.
Installation of the beam and its fixation on the studs.

Mauerlat corner connections are made by cutting into half a tree. In the same way, the timber is increased in length if the standard size of 6 m is not enough. Also, horizontal struts are made in the corners or iron brackets are driven in, which do not allow the beams to move apart under the load of the main and hip rafters.

Advice. Be sure to treat all wooden parts with an antiseptic and flame retardant. One protects the wood from decay, and the second increases its fire resistance.

Assembling the truss system

Roof trusses of large sizes are usually mounted on site, because it will take twice as many workers to lift them from the ground. In wooden houses, first of all, all ceiling beams are installed, and temporary flooring is arranged on them. For the installation of a high ridge, scaffolding will also be needed.

The phased assembly of the hip roof structure is carried out in the following order:

As with the construction of a gable roof, the first step is to place the central supports, where the ridge run is attached.
The installation of the main rafters is carried out, which are cut from above and below at the desired angle. On the ridge, the oncoming rafter legs are brought out into one plane and fastened with steel plates on self-tapping screws (yellow, not black). Beams are fixed to the Mauerlat with corners.
After installing the main trusses, tighten them with crossbars and struts according to the drawings, using bolts for fastening.
Install the ribs - the extreme hip rafters. Their connection with the ridge and strapping timber is carried out according to one of the schemes proposed above.
Saw off and nail the sprigs to the frame. Each of them is cut at different angles, determined by measuring at 4 points (along each edge of the board).
If necessary, fix the fillies to provide an overhang of 0.5 m, and hem the eaves with boards.

Advice. Since the hip ribs are very long, they must be increased and additional supports should be placed. Make the joint near the ridge, where the load on the roof is less, and mount the supports closer to the Mauerlat.

How the elements of the hip structure are attached in reality, see the following video:

Laying the finish coat

This final operation is performed according to the traditional technology, which provides for ventilation of the under-roof space and the installation of a waterproofing layer from a diffusion membrane. The latter does not allow moisture to penetrate from the street into the attic, at the same time, the film freely passes water vapor out. There is only one difference from covering ordinary gable roofs: additional flashings are placed along the fracture lines (on the hip ribs).

The coating material is laid in the following order:

The rafter system is completely covered with a diffusion membrane. The canvases are rolled out horizontally with an overlap of at least 100 mm, starting from the bottom. Joints must be sealed with adhesive tape.
The film is nailed to the outer edges of the rafters through the bars of the counter-lattice with a section of 5 x 5 cm, providing ventilation under the metal tile or other material.
Perpendicular to the direction of the rafter legs, the boards of the crate are nailed. The installation interval depends on the selected coating, and for soft tiles, the packing is continuous.
Roofing material and all fittings are mounted on the ends of the roof, as well as around ventilation and chimneys.

Note. The bars of the counter-lattice, nailed to the rafters, should not become an obstacle to the ventilation air. Therefore, they are specially shortened to a length of 2-3 m and nailed with a gap of 5-10 cm between adjacent elements.

The insulation of the hip roof is done both during the installation of the coating and after it, the main thing is to assemble the correct “pie” shown in the diagram. In the first case, the mineral wool is laid from above, under the waterproofing, and in the second - from the inside.

Conclusion

It must be understood that the advantages of a hip roof over a gable roof are few. Firstly, it is a beautiful architectural solution, and secondly, it reduces the wind load on the side facades of a private house. But for this, the homeowner will have to pay for the increased consumption of timber and the complication of construction, and hence the time costs. Hence the advice: do not rush into a decision and think carefully about the pros and cons. But if you have already taken it, then do the roofing with high quality, for yourself, without saving money on consultations with civil engineers.