Production and installation of plasterboard partitions. How to make a partition from gypsum board

Today, you can change the layout of any room very quickly, using not heavy brick partitions, but light and durable interior partitions made of plasterboard. Using such frame structures possible in short time and it is relatively inexpensive to change the area and location of rooms, using decorative partitions to divide them into zones, and plan the interior from scratch in a new building.

The bulk of housing was built back in the USSR, when the main goal was not the design and convenience of living quarters, but the quantity of housing. As a result, the old layout does not meet the needs modern man: the kitchens are too miniature, the corridors and hallways are very cramped. Modern new buildings also do not always correspond to personal preferences in the arrangement of rooms.

The way out of the situation is a complete redevelopment by demolishing the old partitions and erecting an interior partition from plasterboard with your own hands. This is the simplest, fastest and most inexpensive way.
In addition to redevelopment, such structures can be used to design studio apartment, highlighting areas for rest, work, eating and sleeping.

Problems that can be solved by installing frame partitions:

• increase the kitchen area by combining a separate bathroom and moving the partition, or arranging a studio;
• expand the corridor or hallway by “moving” the partition;
• completely change the area of ​​the rooms, their purpose, or even location, demolishing all non-load-bearing partitions and installing new ones;
• remove unnecessary storage rooms in the apartment, adding extra meters to the bathroom, kitchen or living room;
• plan a new arrangement of rooms in a new building apartment;
• make separate rooms from passage rooms.

Using technology such as installing an interior partition made of plasterboard, you can solve almost all problems of changing the layout of any apartment.

Materials and tools for plasterboard partitions

The construction of light and durable interior partitions from plasterboard is done on, after which they are carried out Finishing work. To complete such a design, you need a certain list of materials:

• drywall;
• profiles or wooden slats;
• fasteners: screws, press washers, dowels, nails, ;
• sound insulation of interior partitions is provided by mineral wool;
• finishing materials: mesh, gypsum plaster mixtures;
• : level and tape measure, grinder and screwdriver, stationery knife with blades, bits, spatulas, trowel.

These are the basic materials and equipment, without which the installation of interior partitions is impossible or significantly more difficult.

Drywall

Drywall, which is used in residential construction, is: wall, waterproof and fireproof. Wall view used for finishing walls and constructing partitions in rooms that will not experience increased exposure to moisture.

Simply put, for living rooms. It is the cheapest, but it is better to take drywall from famous manufacturers. The cost is 160 rubles or 220 per sheet of 3 meters.

Waterproof sheet, worth purchasing for partitions in bathrooms, bathrooms and kitchens. It costs a little more. It is better to make interior partitions from materials from well-known brands. Fireproof plasterboard is used in the construction of structures where there is a high likelihood of exposure to high temperatures. Its price is higher than previous varieties, so installing partitions from such material is impractical.


The required number of sheets is taken based on the length of the partition. Standard size plasterboard 2500×1250 mm, that is, for a wall 3 meters long you need 2.5 sheets.

Read also

Installation instructions for plasterboard partitions

Profiles

An interior partition made of plasterboard can be assembled using wooden frame, however, the material must be well-dried, smooth, preferably without knots and treated against rotting. Such requirements make it difficult to use wood, and “high-quality” means expensive. It is best to install partitions made of metal profiles. Several types of metal profile will be required.

As with drywall, the amount of profile is calculated based on the parameters of the future wall.

Fasteners

Fastening material can be divided into two subgroups: for frames and drywall. The profile base elements are connected to each other using small metal screws - press washers. The guide profiles are attached to the surface of the floor, walls and ceiling with dowel nails. It is important that the fasteners must match the material of the supporting structures and provide rigid fixation. If necessary, purchase the appropriate anchors.


mounted with self-tapping screws with a length of 20 mm (sheet thickness 12 mm + insert into metal). To secure one unit of material it takes 25-30 pieces of such screws.

Soundproofing material

Soundproofing of interior partitions is done through the use of mineral wool. It is sold in rolls or cut into squares. The thickness of the layer will determine the quality of sound insulation. Required quantity insulating material taken based on the area of ​​the wall.

Decoration Materials

The completed partitions are prepared for final finishing: the joints between the sheets are sealed and the surfaces are puttied. You need to purchase primer and gypsum plaster. Reinforcing tape, or serpyanka, can be simple and self-adhesive. It is better to purchase the latter option, as it is easier to use. The width is selected as needed.

The primer is treated before. It is advisable to buy such material with antiseptic properties. Plaster mixtures There are three types, for the simplest finishing for painting or wallpaper, you can purchase a finishing or universal mixture. The quantity is calculated based on the area of ​​the wall. The putty consumption is indicated on the packaging. It is calculated in the mass of material per 1 mm of layer.
When all materials are available, we begin to assemble the interior partitions.

Installation of a plasterboard partition: step-by-step instructions

A do-it-yourself plasterboard partition is built according to an algorithm in three stages.

• frame installation;
• finishing.

Frame installation

Before you start making an interior partition from plasterboard, you need to prepare the place. The guide profiles are attached to the floor slabs, which means you need to remove the flooring and finishing materials from the ceiling.

After marking, the production of the base begins with the installation of UW guide profiles. To do this, holes are drilled on the load-bearing surfaces for dowels and nails in increments of 30–40 cm. The profile is laid and dowels are inserted. The mounting screws are hammered.

If you are planning plasterboard partitions with a door, then you will need to install a door profile, which is secured to the guides with “bugs”. To ensure that the structure can easily support the door fastenings, a wooden beam of the appropriate size is placed in it.

After this, we build the frame by installing racks. The rack profile is connected to the guide rails using press washers. The number of racks is placed at the rate of 3–4 pieces per gypsum board.

From the rack profile for walls CD or from the same CW, we install transverse jumpers that are attached to the racks. To do this, you need to cut off the shelves from the transverse slats. Fastening is carried out with metal screws - press washers or “bugs”.

It is important to remember that if you plan to hang shelves or household appliances, you need to lay wooden blocks (minimum 50 mm thick) into the installed frame and draw a diagram of their location. But if this moment is missed, you will need to purchase special types of dowels. You also need to do the wiring for household appliances and lighting. When the structure of the frame is ready, they begin to cover it. Watch a video tutorial on installing a plasterboard partition.

Sheathing with plasterboard

Installation of plasterboard on the frame of the interior partition is carried out with a gap from the floor and ceiling of 10 and 5 mm, respectively. The sheets must be installed upright. The length of the material may not be enough, so then small pieces are added, alternating their location at the top and bottom. The pitch between the screws should be no more than 25–30 cm.

When screwing in the fasteners, the caps are slightly sunk into the surface carefully, without damaging the cardboard layer. They start screwing in the screws from right to left or vice versa, in no case from the initial fixation of the corners. When one side of the partition is built, they make soundproofing backfills, after which they begin covering the opposite surface.

Holes are cut out in the material for the sockets and the wiring is brought out into them.

Finishing work

The advantage of drywall is that after creating the structure, you can immediately begin finishing it. They begin work by sealing joints and fastening points. The joints are covered with sickle tape and puttied ready-made mixture. The attachment points are covered gypsum plaster. Before puttying, the walls are treated with a primer and allowed to dry for 30 minutes.

The surfaces of the partition are puttyed with universal or finishing putty, with a layer of 1 mm. To do this, use spatulas or a straight trowel. The gypsum mixture will dry for several days, after which it is rubbed down and the final design of the room is made. The advantage of such partitions is the speed of their construction, lightness and strength of the structure. You can quickly build beautiful, perfect smooth walls. A simple algorithm of work makes it possible to do everything yourself, without resorting to outside help.

Using drywall to redesign movements is an excellent choice for quality and ease of installation. And gypsum board sheets are cheaper than glass, forged metal or natural wood. Installation of plasterboard partitions is easy to do yourself if you choose quality materials and tools to make the process easier.

Before planning and destroying old floors, you must obtain permission from the building management, otherwise independent intervention in the apartment layout may affect the safety of the entire house. If the redevelopment is planned in a private cottage, then there is no need to approach the process so strictly.

The main material for installing plasterboard partitions is sheets. They are divided into several types according to different indicators. The main one is thickness. If the structure is erected in a purely decorative purposes, there will be no door, and there are no shelves or other heavy parts on the sides, then the thickness of the product can be minimal.

Important! The thickness of the sheets is not selected “by eye”, but according to calculations: the sum of the thickness of the insulation layer, all layers of drywall and frame.

Regardless of the type of drywall used, builders highlight a number of advantages of this material:

The optimal thickness for sheets is 12 mm. This material is used in rooms with normal humidity levels. If the partition is being made in a bathroom or shower, you need to take moisture resistant drywall(it has a delicate mint color).

Types of drywall

Next essential material– this is a profile. Regular ceiling profiles cannot be used because they are not reliable enough. Most often, reinforced guides and rack profiles made of metal are used. They are different types and thickness - from 50 x 40 mm to 100 x 40 mm.

Additional materials:

• dowels;
• self-tapping screws with a press washer;
• screws for metal;
• sealing tape and reinforcing tape for seams;
• acrylic primer;
• putty;
• serpyanka mesh for sealing seams.

The tools required to construct the partition are marked with a separate item.

Tools needed for work

When installing a gypsum plasterboard partition, construction tools are used.

It’s better not to replace them with improvised means, but to prepare everything in advance:

This set of tools and equipment for installing a partition is used if it is straight, without curved shapes or additional angles. Additionally, you can buy a riveter for processing metal profiles.

How to install a plasterboard partition

Before installing a plasterboard partition, you need to make sure you have all the tools. It is better to start the process in daylight. Installing a partition with your own hands takes place in several stages, and one of the most important is applying markings. Never skip it, especially if you are installing such a structure for the first time.

Marking

It is necessary to begin the installation of plasterboard partitions by applying markings. Do this on the floor using a long ruler, a level and a construction angle.

The line must be perfectly straight, because subsequently the profile guide is attached to it:

It is necessary to make markings on the ceiling with extreme precision, otherwise the structure will turn out crooked, which will lead to premature wear and impossibility of installing the door.

Frame installation

After the markings have been applied and the alignment is ensured, guide profiles are installed. First, place the part on the floor and secure it with dowels, bypassing the space for the door.

Advice! Holes for fastenings are made when the guides lie on the floor strictly according to the markings, after which the guides can be moved.

Having removed the guides, the master hammers dowel plugs into the holes in the floor. Then the guide profiles are put in place and screwed with self-tapping screws. Then they make a final check of the markings, comparing the floor profile with the line on the ceiling. To do this, use a plumb line.

Next, attach the rack profile along the lines on the walls, constantly checking the position of the metal according to the level so that there are no deviations to the side. The bottom of the vertical element is installed in the horizontal guide. If fastening occurs to concrete walls, use the same method as on the floor. If the walls are wooden, then screws are screwed in without dowels. After installing the side strips, proceed to installing the ceiling rail.

Advice! Screws must be screwed in at a distance of up to 300 mm from each other.

Attaching to the ceiling is done using the same method as to the floor. The next step is to determine the position of the door on the ceiling profile. To do this, use a plumb line, checking the floor markings with the ceiling. Measure the height of the frame parts that will frame the door. The required blanks are cut out with scissors.

The vertical profile should be perfectly straight at this point.

The height of the door is marked on it, the crossbar from the profile is screwed according to the marks and strengthened wooden beam. Vertical posts are attached to it. Self-tapping screws are installed at the end.

If the ceilings in an apartment or house are high, then the installation of interior partitions is accompanied by the use of additional vertical profiles. They are attached approximately every 500 - 700 mm.

Now you need to measure the space between the door and the openings and calculate how many vertical posts are required. They are mounted 300-600 mm from each other. Cut from a metal profile required amount racks, then install their ends inside the guides. The process is controlled at the construction level. The profiles must be fastened with self-tapping screws with larger heads.

Electrical wiring

When the frame is completely ready, the inside is made electrical wiring. This can be done after the installation of plasterboard partitions - sheets - on one side is completed. You need to make holes in the profiles through which the wires are pulled. All wiring must be covered with corrugated or smooth tubes to protect against possible damage.

Covering the frame with plasterboard

The big stage is covering the frame with gypsum board sheets to size. It is necessary to screw drywall with visible self-tapping screws (most often they use black ones, created specifically for fastening gypsum boards). The fastener heads are deepened by 1 mm.

If the sheet sizes are too large, they are cut off:

If the sheets are cut, they lose their chamfer. This impairs the installation of plasterboard partitions. To make a chamfer, you can use a plane with a beveled blade.

Advice! If the partition will use elements to turn on electricity, then holes in the sheets are cut with crowns of the required diameter. Wires are routed through them after complete installation designs.

You can also install a box for a switch or socket on the finished half. As soon as one side is installed, insulation is laid out in the space: isover, mineral wool, polystyrene foam. Space cannot be left empty, otherwise it will lead to an echo in the room and other undesirable consequences.

Door frame installation

The remaining empty doorway is processed last:

1. Set by level doorjamb with hinges using larger self-tapping screws.
2. The heads of the screws are deepened into the wooden posts of the box.
3. The door is hung (it is advisable to choose the lightest possible material).

If problems arise due to insufficiently level installation of the profiles, or if the opening is slightly larger, use wooden spacers. The remaining gaps are filled polyurethane foam. When it is completely dry, the protruding parts are cut out with a knife.

Sealing seams

The final stage of installation of gypsum plasterboard partitions is the sealing of all seams, including the heads of screws and nails. At this stage, a sickle mesh is used. It is best to choose a material with glue applied, then installation will be faster:

After all the procedures, they move on to the stage of finishing the finished partition.

Finishing

Careful finishing is necessary to decorative materials lay flat and correctly on the sheets. A sloppy appearance will negate all the efforts of the builder.

Finishing is completed with a final layer of putty, after which it is processed sandpaper with fine grain.

After clearing the wall of dust, apply an additional layer of primer and wait until it dries completely. Now you can paste wallpaper or other decorative elements.

Creating a partition from plasterboard with your own hands is not only simple, but also exciting process, which even a beginner can handle. The main thing is to strictly follow the recommendations and not skip steps.

Many modern apartments do not have a layout and therefore the owners independently break down total area for rooms using interior partitions, or use decorative ones.

The simplest, fastest and in an accessible way creating interior partitions are plasterboard structures. Such partitions can be either solid or with a door, and if you have the desire and time, then you can make them yourself.

Drywall is a universal building material that is used both for finishing a room and for creating new structures in it, including interior partitions, and for creating apartments. The only things that can compete with it in terms of characteristics are: or

Benefits of using drywall if it is necessary to create an interior partition with a door, they will be as follows:

• it's light material, so the load on the structure of the house will be insignificant;
• All work with it is done by hand, without the involvement of assistants, since the material is light;
• the cost of drywall is low, as well as the materials necessary to create the frame and surface finishing ;
• material is easy to cut, it bends easily, so even arched structures are created with its help;
• installation of the frame and sheets is simple and quick;
• finishing of such structures is carried out with various materials;
• plasterboard sheets consist of natural materials, therefore they are safe for human health.

Eat different types drywall, so before buying it, you need to decide which one you need:

1. ordinary, most often gray in color, used in rooms where humidity is no more than 70%;
2. moisture resistant, has green or Blue colour and is used in rooms where there is constantly high humidity;
3. refractory, usually used in the kitchen, where there is a possibility of strong heating of the wall, it contains fiberglass and other additives, it is red or gray in color;
4. fire-resistant moisture-resistant, it is rarely used in rooms with difficult conditions.

The thickness of a regular sheet is 12.5 mm, and to create arches they use sheets 6.5 mm thick, to give them flexibility, they are pre-moistened.

Installation of an interior partition

At the first stage of the work, it is necessary to determine the location of the future partition. To mark, use a plumb line and a cord, parallel lines are drawn on the floor and ceiling.

Much easier to work with laser level, but buy it only to create plasterboard wall inappropriate.

Taking into account the presence of a door, the profile is not laid on the floor along the entire length of the partition, but space is left for the doorway. When laying the profile, keep in mind that the distance left for the door is 1-2 cm greater than its width in order to be able to install the door frame.

When marking, the width of the partition is also taken into account, if it is sheathed in one sheet, then 2.5 cm is added to the thickness of the frame, and if the gypsum board is laid in two layers, then 5 cm is added.

To perform the specified work, you will need the following tools:

• building level;
• measuring instruments;
• cord and plumb line, or as their replacement - a laser level;
• corner;
• electric drill;
• metal scissors or jigsaw;
• pencil;
• stationery knife;
• putty knife;
• container for plaster.

After marking, we cut the profile to the required length, and cover the rear walls with sealing tape.

Installation of profiles

Work begins with laying and securing the guide profile to the floor, after which it is installed along the entire perimeter of the future partition. The profile is fastened using self-tapping screws or dowel nails, it all depends on the material of the walls.

Now, using the rack profile forming a doorway, this must be done carefully and carefully, so that the distance between the posts at the top and bottom is the same. The verticality of the racks is checked by level, after which they are fixed.

To increase the strength of the doorway, it is recommended to lay wooden blocks of the appropriate size in the racks and secure them with self-tapping screws.

On next stage the remaining rack profiles are mounted if you have gypsum plasterboard standard width, then the distance between them is required 60 cm.

To increase the strength of the future partition, between vertical posts needs to be secured horizontal lintels, which are cut from the same profile.

The transverse profile located above the doorway is also installed and secured wooden block, it should fit into it easily so as not to disturb the shape, using a square check that the angles are 90 degrees.

The remaining transverse profiles are attached to the racks; special short screws are used for this.

After the frame is created, you will see that its structure is quite rigid and durable, start laying electrical wiring. The rack profiles have holes through which it will be convenient to thread wires.

The wiring is placed in special corrugated non-flammable insulation.

Fastening drywall

At home You can use a utility knife to cut drywall and a long ruler or staff. To do this, apply a ruler to the sheet, make a cut along the line several times, the deeper it is, the better, and then carefully break the gypsum board and get the required size.

To simplify finishing work, make a chamfer at the cut site at an angle of about 45 degrees, a plane or knife is used for this.

During the calculations, It is necessary to foresee in advance the places where you plan to mount hanging furniture or equipment.

Here additional profiles reinforced with wooden blocks must be installed, it all depends on the weight of the suspended structures.

Left place the sheet on the posts and secure it, this is done using self-tapping screws; they are installed in increments of 20 cm and slightly recessed into the sheet.

If you forgot to chamfer the sheets before installing them, do this with a knife when they are installed on the wall.

Carrying out finishing work

Installation of the frame and gypsum board is only the beginning of creating a plasterboard partition. At the next stage All seams are sealed. To do this, use sickle tape and putty. The entire surface of the wall is also puttyed.

After the base has dried, begin leveling the surface. The wall is covered with primer, which will allow the plaster to adhere better and provide additional protection for the plasterboard. Leveling is carried out with a wide spatula and finishing plaster.

Door block installation

In the prepared opening is performed installation of a door frame, do this with wedges, screws and polyurethane foam. First, the frame is aligned using wedges and fixed with self-tapping screws, after which they proceed to installing the door leaf.

The correctness of the work is checked, and the door should open and close easily. If everything is normal, then the remaining gaps are filled with polyurethane foam.

At this time, the door is in the closed position, or spacers are inserted into the frame so that when the foam hardens, it does not deform it.

The foam is cut off after it has completely hardened; if the canvas was removed, then it is hung only a day later, after installing the box.

Finishing

On last stage creating a wall from plasterboard, it is carried out finishing, for this it is usually use paint or wallpaper. The frame is covered with platbands, which help hide the door attachment points.

Features of insulation and sound insulation

It is not recommended to leave a hollow partition; it will be filled with sheet or roll insulation. They are laid after one side of the wall is covered with plasterboard, and only then is it sheathed on the other side.

If you plan to install it in such a wall engineering communications or sliding door, then in the place where they are located, insulation is not laid.

To create sound insulation, use mineral wool or isover. From below, when installing the sheet, you need to leave a small gap, so stands of the appropriate thickness are installed.

In order for you to be able to create a plasterboard wall with an opening for doors yourself, You must adhere to the following expert advice:

1. During the installation of partitions in the room must be at least 10 degrees Celsius.
2. You need to calculate the required number of guides and rack metal profiles, only then purchase them. Cut them according required size You can use a jigsaw or metal scissors.
3. The sheets are laid tightly to each other.
4. To create holes for sockets, you must use special drill attachments.
5. In the places where the sheets are joined, be sure to use a sickle and seal the heads of the screws well with putty, after which the entire wall is puttied.
6. As finishing materials, you can use paint, wallpaper, tiles, cladding panels and others.

Conclusion

Now you see that there is nothing complicated in the construction of plasterboard partitions and all the work can be done independently. Having studied the technology of performing the work, advice from experts and prepared necessary tool, feel free to begin performing the specified work.

Useful video

How to make a partition from plasterboard with your own hands, step-by-step instructions in the video:

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Although plasterboard partitions have become widely known relatively recently, today many builders, as well as owners of offices and even residential apartments, cannot imagine their lives without them. Their installation is quite simple, easy and cheap, but at the same time they make it easy to zone a room. Therefore, learning more about them will be useful for many people - perhaps the use of plasterboard partitions will be a good solution for them.

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Advantages of plasterboard partitions

These designs have quite a few important advantages that you should keep in mind. Here are just the most obvious and important ones:

1. Excellent sound insulation. Just install metal carcass with one layer of plasterboard 12 millimeters thick to achieve sound absorption of up to 47 dB. If you sew a double layer of material onto the frame, this figure will increase to 45 dB;
2. The material is extremely lightweight. Unlike brick and concrete partitions, plasterboards are quite light (a sheet with an area of ​​1 square meter weighs from 25 to 50 kg, depending on thickness), which allows not to create a significant load on the supporting structure;
3. Drywall has a flat surface, which is perfect for covering with any finishing material - from paint and wallpaper to decorative stone slabs;
4. Modern drywall is a non-flammable material, which increases the safety of its use;
5. Its relatively large porosity allows it to be classified as a “breathing” material. That is, it not only allows steam to pass through, but also absorbs excess moisture from the air, and, if necessary, releases it, making the microclimate in the room more stable;
6. Ease of installation is an even more important indicator. Any room can be transformed beyond recognition in a matter of hours. And it is not always necessary to resort to the help of specialists, spending extra money. You can build plasterboard partitions with your own hands - all you need is simple tools and at least basic construction skills. At the same time, the quantity construction waste minimal when working.

As you can see, the advantages of such partitions are very numerous. But it is equally important to have an idea of ​​the shortcomings, so as not to later regret a bad choice.

Disadvantages of plasterboard partitions

Alas, just like anyone else construction material, drywall has certain disadvantages. First of all, it is fragility. Unlike wooden ones and even more so brick walls, plasterboards are easily damaged.

Although drywall is a “breathable” material, it does not tolerate high humidity and, especially, direct contact with water. That is, if your upstairs neighbors flood you and water gets on the plasterboard partitions, the latter will be hopelessly damaged - you will have to change them.

It is not advisable to hang shelves and cabinets on such partitions - they will become a serious additional load on the metal profile, and it may simply not withstand it.

This is where the disadvantages of this material end. Yes, there are significantly fewer of them than advantages. This is why installation of plasterboard partitions is such a popular service today.

How to choose material?

If you decide to install plasterboard partitions in your apartment or house with your own hands, you will need: profile, plasterboard, self-tapping screws. At first glance, this all sounds quite simple. But when they come to a hardware store, many people who do not work in the construction industry are lost. Therefore, it will be useful to talk about these materials in more detail.

Types and purpose of metal profiles

Profiles may vary functional purpose and, accordingly, the section:

• Guide profile. Its cross section resembles a channel. Used as a base if you need to secure a rack profile. Its shelves are 40 millimeters wide. The backrest can have a width from 50 to 100 millimeters. The labeling mentions all the necessary parameters. For example, if you see a material marked PN 40-75, then this is a guide profile with a back 75 mm long and a shelf 40 mm long;
• Rack profile. It differs from the guide by the presence of special inward bends at the ends of the shelves. In addition, its width is slightly larger - 50 millimeters. May be marked as PS 50-75. But it should be remembered that usually the back has a smaller width - instead of the indicated 50 mm, no more than 48.5.
• Ceiling profile. Used to create a ceiling frame followed by plasterboard covering;
• Corner profile. Needed to create smooth and attractive outside corners. Able to protect soft plasterboard corners from any mechanical damage;
• There is also an arched profile. It is used to create arched openings. The back and shelf of the profile are divided into equal sections, this allows it to be easily bent, giving it almost any shape;
• The beacon profile is used if you need to level the walls to a given level. The profile is used as a stop that allows you to set the rule to the desired level.

All profiles have different lengths - from 2750 to 6000 millimeters, which allows you to choose the right one for any job.

It is also worth noting that the profile can vary significantly in the thickness of the metal used. Typically the thickness ranges from 0.4 to 0.55 millimeters. Of course, if the thickness is greater, then the profile has greater strength, but it costs more and weighs more. Therefore, you should approach its choice as carefully as possible in order to choose exactly the one that is suitable for making plasterboard partitions with your own hands.

Drywall can also vary in a number of ways. For example, the thickness of the sheets can be from 6 to 15 millimeters. Thin sheets are suitable for forming complex surfaces and arches. And to make partitions, minimum thickness must be at least 12.5 millimeters. Otherwise, the sheets may not withstand possible mechanical loads.

Drywall is also usually divided into several groups:

• Standard drywall. Used for finishing any surfaces. Gray color with blue markings;
• Moisture-resistant drywall. Suitable for rooms with high humidity. Green with blue markings;
• Fire-resistant plasterboard. It is used in ventilation shafts, electrical panels, and attics. Gray color, with red markings;
• Fire-resistant and moisture-resistant plasterboard. Green, with red markings.

Of course, choosing suitable material, you need to pay attention not only to the thickness of the sheets, but also to the purpose of the drywall in order to make right choice. Based on the thickness of the sheets, you should choose the length of the screws. They should securely fix the drywall to the profile, but not stick out after screwing.

Work progress

List of tools needed to complete the work

To install a plasterboard partition with your own hands, you need to use not many tools: a building level, a stationery knife, a hammer, a screwdriver, a hammer drill, metal scissors, a 5-7 meter tape measure, a plumb line and a pencil.

Some professionals prefer to use a more convenient laser self-leveling level. Indeed, with its help you can quickly complete a significant amount of work. But this is a rather expensive tool, so in most cases you can get by with the simplest hydraulic level.

If you don’t have a screwdriver or an electric drill at hand, you can get by with a screwdriver. Yes, you will have to spend a lot of time and effort to do all the work manually. But, nevertheless, it is quite real.

When all the tools are collected and necessary materials purchased, you can start working. And for many people doing this work for the first time, it would be a good idea to know how to install plasterboard partitions with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction below will help you with this.

How to install a guide profile

The first stage of work is the installation of the guide profile. It is necessary to mark a line on the floor (preferably with chalk, as it is easily erased). A new partition will be installed along it. We install the guide profile in the marked place.

If work is carried out in a room with wooden floors, the profile is simply fixed with self-tapping screws. It's more difficult if you have to work with concrete floors. Holes are pre-drilled in them into which dowels are installed. The distance between the screws should not exceed 30 centimeters for reliable fixation.

The next stage is fixing the profile on the walls. For this purpose, the first profile is used as a place for lower fastening. Using a plumb line, we strictly monitor vertical arrangement profile. It is mounted on the wall, just like it was mounted on the floor. If the wall is made of silicate blocks or aerated concrete, it is better to use special dowel nails. They must also be installed at intervals of no more than 30 centimeters.

At the joints, the profiles are connected to each other using short (no more than 15 millimeters) self-tapping screws.

In the same way, you need to install a ceiling profile, thereby closing the contour for the future plasterboard partition.

Installing a vertical profile

The design of a blind partition that does not include a doorway is simple. Vertical profiles are installed on guides, and must be installed from the wall. Places for installing the profile should be marked in advance. The distance between them must be determined individually - it depends on how wide the drywall sheets are. On one sheet you need to install three racks - along the edges and in the center. For example, if a sheet 120 centimeters wide is installed, the racks are installed at intervals of 60 centimeters.

Before you start connecting profiles, you need to know how to do it correctly. First, you should fix the screws closer to the back, and only then - closer to the edge. In this case, the risk of shelf deformation is eliminated. This means that the quality of the profile and its load bearing capacity will not be harmed.

To increase the rigidity of the structure, additional sections of the profile are installed between the vertical posts. Their length should correspond to the distance between the installed profile - during installation it is advisable to use short self-tapping screws that can reliably fasten the entire structure.

The minimum distance between the horizontal profile is 40 centimeters. In general, it depends on the length of the sheets. You need to make sure that their edges lie in the middle of the profile. If you plan to hang light shelves or a hanger on a plasterboard partition, in pre-marked places the profile is reinforced with wooden blocks - they will bear the load.

If you need a regular interior partition, then you can use whole sheets of drywall. Where this is not possible, the sheets will have to be cut with a stationery knife. How to do this carefully? You just need to lay the ruler down and run the knife several times in one place, gradually deepening the cut. Of course, this should be done by carefully measuring and marking everything so as not to spoil the building materials.

When fastening drywall to a profile, you should ensure a gap between the floor and the bottom edge of the sheet. The gap should not be too large - about 5 millimeters.

After this, the sheet is attached to vertical and guide posts. Optimal distance between screws – 15-20 centimeters. In this case, it is advisable to recess the heads of the screws into the sheet by 1 millimeter. When the sheet is secured, its horizontalness can be checked with a level.

As you can see, the technology for constructing plasterboard partitions is not fraught with anything complicated.
When construction is completed, paint or wallpaper is applied to the surface, as provided for in the design project of a particular room.

The installation process will be a little more complicated if you are interested in a partition with a door.

In this case, the vertical profiles should be installed not from the wall, but from the marked opening. When installing guide profiles, a suitable gap must also be provided. The installation of the rack profile is carried out so that the width of the doorway in the lower and upper parts is the same.

The main thing to remember here is that both the door and door frame. Otherwise, you will have to redo a lot of work later.

To increase the strength of the opening, a wooden block is inserted into the profile. To fix it, it is better to use self-tapping screws with a length of at least 35 millimeters.

When the profile around the doorway has taken a finished form, you can continue installing the rest of the profile, starting with it and moving towards the walls.

That's all. If you master the theory presented in the article, you will probably be able to install plasterboard partitions with your own hands without any problems.

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The modern choice of finishing materials allows you to carry out repairs of any complexity without any problems. own apartment or home. The main thing is that you have the necessary set of tools and detailed instructions.

Delineating space in a room has long ceased to be a problem, since you can easily make a simple plasterboard partition with your own hands. Drywall is a fairly affordable and easy to process material. It has a lot of advantages and virtually no disadvantages.

1. Light weight.
2. Low price.
3. Ease of processing.
4. Good sound insulation.
5. No “wet” or dirty work during installation.
6. Variability of finishing of the outer layer.
7. A frame that allows the laying of any communications.

Plasterboard structures of any configuration are usually mounted on a metal profile. Use wooden structure frame is impractical: wood rots, deforms over time, working with it requires additional effort and availability special tool. And the cost of wooden bars is no lower than a metal profile.

Other required materials

1. Sealing tape.
2. Reinforcing tape for fastening seams.
3. Self-tapping screws for metal.
4. Self-tapping screws with press washer.
5. Dowel nails.
6. Putty for sealing seams between sheets of drywall.
7. Acrylic based primer.
8. Plasterboard sheets 12-14 mm thick.

What types of profiles are there for drywall?

Conventional and familiar ceiling profiles for siding cannot be used for installing plasterboard structures. They are too fragile and unreliable. For drywall, special fittings are used: reinforced guides and rack-mount metal profiles. Guide hardware is used to attach drywall to the ceiling or walls. There are 4 markings for guide profiles, depending on the thickness of the material. The thinnest are 50 by 40 mm, the widest are 100 by 40 mm. The length for all sizes is the same - 3 meters.

Rack fittings are also divided into 4 types: from 50 by 50 mm to 100 by 50 mm. As can be seen from the markings, the widest profile is the strongest and most reliable. The length of the rack profile varies from 3 to 4 meters. Rack profile from which it is formed vertical frame plasterboard partitions, it is not recommended to increase their length, otherwise the structure will not have sufficient strength.

Tools required to construct a plasterboard partition

After everything necessary tools and materials purchased, careful consideration should be given to future design partitions and their location in the room.

Exactly the same marks are made on the second wall. They must match. You can check the accuracy of the markings as follows: you need to draw a straight line along the floor from one mark on the wall to the second. If the lines coincide, then the markings are applied correctly. Along these lines will be attached plasterboard partition to the wall and to the floor.

Marks on the ceiling are measured in the same way. It is important that the line on the floor is strictly perpendicular to the markings on the ceiling. In this case, the future partition will not tilt or skew in any direction.

Once the markings have been applied, you can begin installing the profile on the walls, floor and ceiling. The guide fittings are screwed onto the ceiling. A rack profile is attached to the walls and floor.

A sealing rubberized tape is placed between the wall and the profile. This material is intended for tight coupling of load-bearing wall structures with the partition. Also, the sealing tape plays the role of a buffer when the temperature and humidity climate in the room changes, due to which plasterboard construction may shrink or expand slightly. The tape will protect it from cracks and deformation.

To get into a room fenced off by a partition, you need a passage under which profiles are specially mounted. If you plan to insert a door into the partition structure, then the doorway needs to be strengthened. This can be done in several ways.

1. Insert the rack profiles into each other and fasten them together.
2. Insert a wooden beam inside the profile.
3. Reinforce the profile with a steel frame.
4. Place two rack profiles side by side.

According to experts, the first method is the most optimal, but only if the proposed door is made of lightweight materials and the estimated weight does not exceed 45 kg. For heavier ones door leaves It is recommended to purchase a special reinforced rack profile, the thickness of which exceeds 2 mm.

You need to leave the required width (leaf size) under the doorway and add another 8 cm to the existing size for the door frame.

After the door profile is positioned, the top lintel is positioned and fastened between them.

The next step is to reinforce the structure with reinforced rack profiles. From the mounted doorway it is done vertical lathing from fittings, from floor to ceiling, step - 40-50 cm. After completion of the work, you get a kind of cage, with a vertically attached profile.

It is important to know

Mounting rack profiles is required in a certain order: The stiffener should be directed in the direction from which the frame will begin to be covered with plasterboard. This is due to the fact that the first sheets of drywall need to be attached from the edge side, the subsequent ones - to the remaining part of the rack profile. If you do not follow the recommended technology for covering the frame, the partition will turn out to be convex or deformed.

If you plan to lay communications ( electrical wires, computer and television cables), It is desirable that the holes for the wires are at the same level.

If you plan to hang a picture or lamp on the partition, then you need to install it in the metal frame in advance. crossbar from profile. The location of the jumper must be marked in order to later attach the accessory to the profile using self-tapping screws.

The width of the partition can be varied. The thinnest partition consists of a single frame. If you need stronger and reliable design, then the profile can be mounted in several layers. Thanks to this, it is possible to improve the soundproofing and heat-saving performance of the partition.

Cladding the erected profile frame with plasterboard

Rules for cutting sheet material

When attaching the material to a metal profile, the sheet should be less than the height of the walls and spaced 1 cm from the floor. When cutting facing material Care should be taken to cut the cardboard and gypsum core special knife for cutting drywall. This will protect the material from cracking and breaking during cutting into the required size fragments.

It is advisable to process the edges with a roughing plane, then using an edge plane, a chamfer having an angle of 20-22 degrees is cut out at the ends.

It is worth knowing that sheets can only be joined on a metal profile, so when cutting drywall, you should take into account the spacing between the rack fittings.

The sheets obtained after cutting are attached to the metal profile using self-tapping screws, at least 3 cm long. Screws must be screwed to the profile after 15-20 cm; at jumpers and joints of sheets, this distance can be reduced to 10 cm. Also, screws cannot be attached near the very edge of the sheet , optimally - 15 mm from the edge.

When attaching the facing material, you do not need to embed the screw heads into the drywall too much, maximum - 1 mm. The sunken caps can be puttyed later.

After one side of the partition is lined with plasterboard, you can begin installation soundproofing material and laying communications inside the structure.

Communication wires are routed through special holes in the metal profile.

For sound insulation, you can use mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, and isover. Each type of material has a whole set useful properties, for example, expanded polystyrene can be used in rooms with high humidity.

To soundproof a partition, the material is cut into fragments and placed inside sections of the profile. It is important to choose a material of a certain thickness that will not stick out due to the edges of the metal profile. After placing the soundproofing material, you can begin lining the second side of the partition.

After erecting the gypsum board structure, it is necessary to give it a presentable appearance. To do this, a layer of primer is applied to the surface of the material, which will protect the wall from moisture and corrosion.

After priming, the drywall is puttied, smoothing out all the unevenness, hiding the fastener heads and seams. Putty is applied to the seams between the sheets, leveled, then, until it dries, a reinforcing tape is attached to the top of the putty and pressed down using a spatula.

Video - Installation of a large partition in a private house

It is worth knowing that if a plasterboard partition is to be covered with wallpaper, then its surface must be completely puttied. This is due to the fact that seams can show through thin wallpaper and spoil the entire appearance of the structure. There is another reason: the surface of the material is made of cardboard. If you stick wallpaper on cardboard, then after a while it will be impossible to remove it. You'll have to put new wallpaper on top of the old ones.

Can not use façade putty For interior work. This material may release toxic substances and be harmful to health.

To erect partitions in places with unstable humidity and temperature conditions, it is recommended to use special sheets of plasterboard. They are painted in green color and have good moisture resistance. You can lay tiles on this material.

Video - Installation of a partition made of plasterboard from KNAUF