“Hobby live” – Internet magazine about hobbies –› Beginner aircraft modellers. Tips for a beginning modeler - Guide: How to assemble good models Glue for transparent parts

Modeling is a fun and rewarding hobby for children and adults. By assembling models of cars, ships, and airplanes with your own hands, you develop imagination and creative thinking, attentiveness and perseverance.

There is a large selection of sets and individual parts in model shops for gluing, so it won’t be difficult to find interesting ideas for yourself or your child.

It's a rare modeling process that can be done without glue. Manufacturers offer a wide range of options. Let's figure out what types of mixtures are suitable for this hobby.

Types of glue for assembling models

• Universal standard glue. It has been used since Soviet times for working with plastic models. It is based on polystyrene and butyl acetate. It works due to the so-called welding effect. First, partial dissolution of the plastic occurs on both surfaces when the edges of the parts are connected. After the connection between the parts and the composition itself hardens, a solid joint is formed, that is, the two parts become one. The polystyrene included in it also provides grip. A special feature of this glue is that it is recommended to apply it to the products before joining, that is, first the mixture must be kept for a couple of minutes on each part, and only then connect them.

• Superfluid glue. It is distinguished by increased penetrating ability and liquid composition. The parts are held together by partially dissolving the plastic. The advantage of this glue is its ability to penetrate between folded parts. Another important plus is that it leaves almost no traces after hardening, only a slightly rough, cloudy surface remains. This glue for airplane, car, and ship models sets very quickly. For ease of use, it is recommended to use a synthetic brush.
• The glue is transparent. Designed to work with transparent parts. The parts are held together not due to the welding effect, but due to the base, which becomes transparent when dried. The mixture is applied to the surfaces of the parts for 5-10 minutes and then combined.

VIDEO ON THE TOPIC

• Cyanoacrylate glue. In our country it is better known as superglue or Super Glue. It was invented in the USA during World War II by scientists looking for transparent plastics for optical sights. The substance was not used then; this only happened in 1951, when the Americans needed a heat-resistant coating for the cabins of military aircraft. Then, after another seven years, the composition hit store shelves and literally amazed everyone. Today it is produced under the brands “Clayberry”, “Second”, “Monolith”, “Super Moment” and others. This is an instantly setting adhesive; maximum bond strength is achieved after two hours. Suitable for working with porous and moisture-containing materials. In modeling it has taken a leading place, as it allows you to fasten parts from different materials. In stores you can buy super glue of regular and gel consistency. The second option is more convenient to apply, as it does not spread.
• Epoxy glue. Epoxy resin, when mixed with a hardener, holds items made of fiberglass, wire, and wood well, but dissolves parts made of polystyrene. Epoxy two-component adhesives are presented not only in ordinary tubes, there is also packaging specifically for modeling. For example, with “Contact” glue, you can squeeze out both the resin and the hardener at the same time, and they will be mixed in a special compartment in equal proportions.

The choice of modeling tools is very large. Let's look at the most popular ones.

Models of any complexity are made from plastic - airplanes, ships, cars. High-quality glue for this material should not spread over a smooth surface, so it must be selected carefully.

There are many manufacturers producing adhesives specifically for plastic. So, you can safely use polystyrene compounds from Revell, Italeri, Tamiya, Zvezda. Despite the similarity of properties, they can be divided into three groups:

1. Liquid - sold in polyethylene bottles with a convenient applicator.
2. Medium density - presented in glass jars with a brush on the lid.
3. Thick ones are packaged in tubes. They harden the slowest, so they allow you to work without rushing.

1. You should not add too much mixture to the junction of parts; you risk staining your hands, tools and the parts themselves with the leaking excess,
2. if a drop gets on a part, do not try to wipe it off, wait until the composition dries and sand this area,
3. the liquid glue should not get under the masking tape, otherwise, after completing the work and removing the film, you will find that the plastic underneath has “floated”,
4. the place where the super glue is connected turns out to be fragile, so it is better not to touch it, you can additionally degrease it,
5. follow the instructions for use indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging,
6. use the products strictly for their intended purpose and only for the materials for which they are intended,
7. When working with toxic compounds, it is recommended to use protective gloves.

— your guide to the world of scale modeling!

Work on a large-scale prefabricated model consists of a continuous connection of individual work stages - elements of construction and assembly. Just like an airplane is created at an aircraft factory. First one stage, then another. At the largest aircraft factories in the world (such as Boeing), the aircraft is generally located on a platform that continuously moves during assembly (from the beginning of the assembly shop to the finish).

And if we want to get a really worthwhile model — we need to improve the efficiency of each individual element of the assembly process. After all, if one element is bad, then maximizing the subsequent ones is much more difficult. If it makes sense at all.

Often a large number of shortcomings are caused by insufficient elaboration of the previous stages.

For example, you can spend all your nerves removing the joints of parts - glue seams, preparing the model body for painting. Often after such work it will be necessary to use a primer.

All this could have been avoided initially quality gluing of parts. So that the joint turns out neat, connection durable, and the seam - inconspicuous.

BUT HOW TO DO THAT?

Here you will need to use different types of adhesives.

In general, until a certain time I was not aware of the existence of different types of adhesives used in large-scale modeling. Typically using the simplest basic type of glue. The one we used to glue models back during the Soviet Union. And I didn’t pay any attention to the fairly rich assortment of model adhesives in online stores.

And only after taking a closer look at the work of Japanese modelers in the video materials of the Tamiya company - Tamiya Custom, I decided to look into this issue in more detail. I looked at what exactly they were doing. What adhesives are used and at what stages. Then I bought a little of all the glues. And started experimenting.

Several models from different manufacturers were used to account for differences in plastic. After all, for example, Italeri’s plastic is different from Zvezdovsky’s. And the same Revell.

It turned out that all adhesives have their own specialization. This significantly improves the quality and efficiency of work. You just need to know the features of the composition and use of each individual glue. And break down the assembly process into appropriate elements in advance - subassemblies .

So, let's look at all types of glue in order. And we will start from the very beginning level.

Glue for plastic models: Regular composition

GLUE FOR ASSEMBLY MODELS: REGULAR

This type of glue is known to every modeller, because acquaintance with the creation of prefabricated plastic scale models begins with it. As a matter of fact, until a certain point this type of glue was used by modellers. Much later, Japanese manufacturing companies introduced other specialized types of glue into their product range.

In the Soviet Union, and later Russia, most modelers (especially mediocre modelers who collect models from time to time) use only it in their work throughout their many years of practice.

Therefore, this type of glue can be designated as universal standard .

Its main components are butyl acetate + polystyrene. Bonding is achieved due to the combined effect of the two types of action.

The first is the partial dissolution of the plastic on both bonded surfaces. When we connect the surfaces to be glued together and then leave them to harden, the dissolved plastic mixes with each other, connecting the edges of the parts together. The result is a “solid, single piece.” The joint is solid and durable. Ready for further processing.

This effect is also called welding effect .

The second is the additional fastening of parts with polystyrene particles included in the glue. They strengthen the molecular bonds in the dissolved plastic, helping to form a new solid compound.

The peculiarity of using this type of glue is that it is applied to the surfaces to be glued before joining the parts. Those. You must first apply glue to each joint surface. And only then put them together. For the gluing process to proceed better, it is necessary to give the glue time to dissolve the plastic of each part separately. Wait 1-2 minutes. And only then connect the parts.

WORKING CHIP

While working on a model, many modellers have to deal with the situation of a thin, shallow recess appearing at the site of the glue seam. This is possible when the surfaces are not sufficiently prepared and the edges of the parts to be glued have an angle other than 90 degrees.

To avoid such troubles that border on the use of putty after drying, you need to do the following. During gluing, it is necessary not only to connect the parts, but to press them tightly against each other. Press one part onto another. As a result, the melted plastic will come out. Having fixed the parts in this position, leave them to dry. Then simply remove excess plastic from the joint surface with a modeling knife. And that’s all - the glue seam has an excellent shape that does not require additional processing.

There is one condition. You need to practice in advance on unnecessary details. Different plastics from different manufacturers have differences in their structure. Therefore, the same pressure can cause completely different effects. If you apply too much pressure, you can easily ruin the details of the model.

As always, caution and accuracy are important here. And preliminary preparation

GLUE FOR ASSEMBLY MODELS: SUPERFLUID

In general, the name of this type of glue should sound like “glue with increased capillary effect.” This is a liquid adhesive with very high penetrating ability, good volatility, high fluidity, without a consistent filler (gluing is achieved by partially dissolving the plastic on the surfaces to be bonded).

The main advantage of this type of glue is the possibility of penetration - flowing into the joint between folded parts . In other words, when working on a model, you connect the parts together and run a brush with glue along the joint. And thanks to its high fluidity, it independently penetrates into the joint. The action of this glue is fast. The welding effect appears very quickly. You won’t have to wait long for gluing and hardening either.

Often this glue is supplied in containers with a built-in brush. But if you use Akan Pro glue, you will need a brush. An ordinary brush, preferably synthetic. One or zero.

Another interesting feature of high-flow glue is that when it hits the surface of the plastic, it leaves virtually no traces when it hardens. It quickly evaporates, leaving behind a cloudy, rough surface. Which is not critical for further painting, and does not require a primer.

I would like to say a special word about the Akan Profi glue. It also belongs to the category of high-fluidity. But working with it requires a high degree of caution. He - " nuclear". It not only easily penetrates the plane of the joint of parts, but also very actively dissolves plastic. If you pour this glue onto a surface with potholes and uneven surfaces, it will cope with the leveling task better than putty. He Very good dissolves plastic. Tested on Ital and Zvezda.

Also, when using it, you must be careful not to spill it on the model. Pro only in very small doses does not leave any imprints. Even a medium-sized drop can be enough to form a molten recess.

It took me a long time to get used to this glue, but I liked its power. So I experimented further. Then, having found out its features of application in practice, I made it the main working glue in the process of assembling models.

In general, at the moment, high-flow glue is the main one for me when working on a model. Be it Akan Pro, or Tamiya ExtraThin Cement. I use regular glue only for joining large parts.

GLUE FOR ASSEMBLY MODELS: TRANSPARENT

In general, having considered the above types of glue, we could stop. After all, thanks to them we will be able to achieve solid results. But that would be wrong. There is another very specific type of glue.

T.N. "transparent glue" Its representative is “Contacta Clear” from Revell. Its only purpose is to glue transparent parts. Both among themselves and with the plastic of the model itself. In fact, this is a variation of the same universal glue. Only there is no welding effect. Bonding is carried out due to the base, which becomes transparent when dry.

The glue is applied in a thin layer to the bonded surfaces of both parts. Then it needs to be allowed to dry for about 5-10 minutes (so that adhesive layer was still sticky). Then we carefully press the parts to be glued together.

Glue for plastic models: Cyanoacrylate all-purpose glue

GLUE FOR ASSEMBLY MODELS: CYANOACRYLATE

Cyanoacrylate glue, better known as “superglue,” which is the Russian translation of the Super Glue trademark. This is the name in former USSR has become a household name.

Super Glue was first obtained in 1942 (during World War II) by American chemist Harry Coover, who worked for Eastman Kodak, during experiments to find transparent plastics for optical sights. However, the substance was rejected due to excessive stickiness. In 1951, American researchers, while searching for a heat-resistant coating for fighter cabins, accidentally discovered the ability of cyanoacrylate to firmly bond. various surfaces. This time, Coover appreciated the capabilities of the substance, and in 1958, superglue went on sale for the first time, “exploding” the market.

In Russia, superglue is also sold under the brands “Clayberry”, “Sila”, “Cyanopan”, “Skley”, “Secunda”, “Monolith”, “Elephant”, “Super-moment”, etc. In the USSR, the glue was produced under the name “ cyacrine."

Adhesives based on cyanoacrylates can easily withstand loads of 150 kg/cm2, and more advanced ones, such as Loctite’s “Black Max” - 250 kg/cm2. The heat resistance of the connection is low and comparable to the heat resistance of acrylic plexiglass: from 70-80 °C for conventional adhesives, up to 125 °C for modified ones.

Cyanoacrylate is a strong, quick-setting, instant adhesive. Easily bonds non-porous and water-containing materials. It sets in less than a minute and reaches maximum strength after two hours. However, its shear strength is low, so superglue is sometimes used as a thread locker or to secure a workpiece on a lathe.

Information from the Wikipedia portal was used.

In large-scale modeling, cyanoacrylate, thanks to its ability to glue structures that are completely different in their properties, has also found its place - it has occupied its niche. We use it to fix photo-etched products and conversions created from epoxy resin.

Often we use super glue purchased from print shops or hardware stores. At the same time, the range of model chemistry manufacturers has long included specialized cyanoacrylate model adhesives. Although essentially their difference is only in the special packaging, convenient for the work of the scale modeler. So there is not much difference between them. And what to use - everyone decides for themselves, based on personal preferences.

It is worth considering that super glue has two types of consistencies - regular and gel-like. The second is thicker, jelly-like. It makes it easier to apply glue exactly to the gluing areas, avoiding drips.

GLUE FOR ASSEMBLY MODELS: EPOXY

Finally, it is necessary to mention two-component epoxy adhesives.

Their main property is that epoxy resin, when mixed with a hardener, forms a strong and very durable connection between the parts. But, in my opinion, they have not found wide application in the field of modeling using plastic prefabricated models.

This glue is suitable for wood and fiberglass models, wire parts, and photo-etching. But it is contraindicated for polystyrene models, since epoxy resin cannot adhere to plastic.

Epoxy two-component adhesives are also available in two versions - regular and modeling. One of the most interesting forms of packaging of conventional cyanoacrylate variants is Contact glue. The shape of the tube allows you to squeeze out both the resin and hardener from two sections in equal proportions in one movement. They are automatically mixed at the outlet. Of the special modeling options, I know only glue from Tamiya.

But again, personally, I don’t see the point in using epoxy in our business. If anyone sees it, please reflect your opinion in the comments. It will be of interest to all members of our community.

At this point we have covered all types of glue used in scale modeling. What types of glue to use is, of course, up to you to decide. But to achieve a lasting good result, the use of specialized tools is required.

Therefore, different model adhesives - BE !

That's all for today!

Good luck to you!

And wonderful models!

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To assemble a model, the model itself and glue are completely insufficient. To assemble a model well, you will need a lot of tools, mainly inexpensive tools - a model knife. tweezers, sandpaper, glue, masking tape and paints.

Model knives and cutters

The most important of all tools is a good knife. For working with airplane models, a knife with a narrow blade is more suitable. The quality of the knife must be very good so that you do not have to sharpen the blade during operation. A surgical scalpel has proven itself well as a knife.

Skin

To clean the assembled model, you will need at least two types of sandpaper: coarser-grained for initial processing and very fine-grained for finishing. It is advisable to use waterproof sandpaper, since the grain is quickly clogged with worn-off plastic. Waterproof sandpaper should be dipped in water from time to time to wash away plastic filings.

Glue

The easiest way to assemble the model is with liquid quick-drying glue. It doesn't hurt to have a special glue for joining transparent parts.

Putty

Special model putty is absolutely necessary for sealing all sorts of cracks that form after gluing, leveling surfaces, etc.

Masking tape

Masking tape is widely used when assembling models. It can not only protect surfaces when painting or puttying, but also hold parts together during gluing. It is advisable to use as thin a tape as possible.

Dye

A large number of paints for models are produced, from miter to acrylic paints on water based. It is better to finish with acrylic or oil paint. In the latter case, the finished model must be sprayed with semi-matte varnish so that the entire surface becomes homogeneous. Oil paint gives a matte surface, but the airplane model should have a slight shine.

Brushes

For painting you will need three brushes: a thin, a medium-sized and a large flat. It is advisable to buy artistic brushes with sable hairs. After use, brushes should be thoroughly washed and dried.

Brush "Revell", marten, No. 4/0

Brush "Revell", No. 2

Properly organized workplace- big deal. It is preferable to have a separate large table for modeling, but you can also work on the kitchen table when it is free. Lighting plays an important role. In dim light, you may not notice defects in the models.

Tool location

The entire tool must be placed neatly and at the same time so. so that it is at hand. There is nothing worse than searching for a missing knife during the assembly process.

File and CP

It is good to store separated small parts in transparent plastic files - everything is visible and will not get lost. It wouldn't hurt to have an album for files.

Tweezers

In a complete model kit there will always be parts that are too small for the rough fingers of the modeller. In this case, tweezers are indispensable. It is good to have two tweezers: regular and with bent tips.

Airbrush and compressor

The vast majority of modellers cannot imagine the painting process without an airbrush and compressor. In any case, you will have to purchase an airbrush and a compressor if you really want to engage in modeling more or less seriously. An airbrush and a compressor will require the largest financial allocations, separated from the family budget. Be prepared for this yourself and prepare your spouse (the latter is the most important!!!). It is generally accepted that painting with an airbrush is easier than with a brush. The question is debatable, but in any case, the result of painting with an airbrush, all other things being equal (the experience of the modeller), is superior to the result of working with a brush. In addition, a number of camouflage painting schemes for aircraft (Italian, German) from the Second World War period can only be done with an airbrush.

Knife set

One model knife is sometimes not enough; it is better to get three: with sharp, cut and rounded blades.

And you definitely need spare blades for a model knife. You can buy them at Tools Store or on Aliexpress: .

"Extra Hands"

Small metal alligator clips are a great help. Used by radio installers. They are good for holding small parts when gluing and painting.

When assembling and especially when modifying the model, you often have to drill holes, so it makes sense to get an electric micro drill and a set of small diameter drills. You can also use a drill to process the surfaces of the model using different attachments.

Wire cutters

Separate parts from frames, bite off burrs, etc. It is best to use small side cutters, borrowed from the arsenal of a radio amateur.

File

A model with cut-out control surfaces looks much more realistic than one in which the rudders and ailerons are simply outlined by jointing. It is best to cut with a miniature saw. made from a razor blade.

Hole puncher

Hole punchers of different diameters are useful for making stencils for identification marks, for example, Japanese “rising sun” circles. Painted markings are preferable to decals.

It is hardly possible to list all the tools needed to assemble the model. In addition to the objective factor, there is also a subjective one.

We are buying a model

We have acquired a tool, now we can choose a model. At first, the wisest decision is to stick with something simple, for example, one of the single-engine fighters of the Second World War: the North America P-51 Mustang, the Mitsubishi Zero or the R-47 Thunderbolt. By assembling these models you can acquire basic assembly and painting skills.

The models of these aircraft are relatively simple. Both in the 48th and 72nd scales they do not contain so many details. For the most part, it's like Thunderbolt. Both the Mustang and the Zero were painted in only two colors - a plain top and a plain bottom. It’s better to start with the 72nd scale, if only because of its cheapness compared to the 48th. If you don’t have experience, then why ruin an expensive model if you can ruin a cheap one?

After assembling several single-engine propeller-driven monoplanes, you can move on to experiments on multi-engine machines, “jets”, biplanes, as well as “whales” on a scale of 1:48 and higher (if you have the desire and have a separate apartment for ready-made models).

Examination

Once you receive the model from the seller, do not rush to thank him. Open the box and make sure that all the parts stated in the instructions are present, decals and especially the cockpit canopy. It would be useful to compare the casting with the aircraft declared on the box. Manufacturers from China can manage to put a Messerschmitt in a Spitfire box. not to mention the replacement of Bf.109E with Bf.l09G. Check the quality of the castings - there are underfills.

If you find complete compliance with the kit, thank the seller and run home to assemble the model. At home, select the tools you need and carefully place them on your work table. You can move on to the next stage.

Studying the instructions

You will probably start studying the instructions on the way. This is by no means forbidden (but also not encouraged - you can get hit by a car). Rate the instructions with critical point vision. Its author has his own view on the process of assembling the model, you may have yours. Sometimes it makes sense to change the build order. However. Don’t rush to scold the author if you don’t like something. Try to delve into the ideas that prompted the technologist to adopt this particular assembly order. Maybe he is right, and not you?

Checking for lice

The overall quality of the model is quite easy to check. Separate several large parts (halves of the fuselage or wing planes) and attach them to each other. If it worked out easily and without displacement, then you bought the Thing. If not, stock up on putty, sandpaper and patience. To avoid losing the cut parts, it is recommended to keep them in a special box. The parts should be separated from the sprues with a knife or side cutters, but under no circumstances should they be broken off. If necessary, the places where parts are attached to the frames should be cleaned after separation.

Fuselage assembly

So, you have examined the model. The euphoria has passed, you can get down to business. Let's start with the fuselage.

Cleaning parts

There may be traces of mold grease and other grease stains on the castings; these should be removed. Immerse the sprue or already cut parts in warm water for about ten minutes, then scrub them thoroughly with soap and an old toothbrush. Rinse under running water and leave to dry.

Stripping

After the parts have dried, clean the flat surfaces with a large piece of sandpaper and go over the sandpaper with the ends of the fuselage halves. The operation has two goals - to remove possible large irregularities, and to make the place where the halves are glued completely flat, removing traces of the pusher (if any), and slightly rough for better glue adhesion. Also clean the places where the parts attach to the sprues.

It happens that one of the fuselage halves is cast with protruding parts, for example, with the tail landing gear. There are two ways. The first is to cut the part and glue it after assembling the fuselage. The second way is to take a small one wooden block, wrap it in sandpaper and treat the end of the fuselage rugs, especially carefully sanding in the area of ​​the protruding part. It is best to scrape the part itself not with sandpaper, but with half a razor blade. Use a modeling knife to remove the flash. In addition to the factory, a small “burst” may appear when sanding. Some plastics will peel. Pay attention to the flash not only at the ends, but also in the area of ​​the cutout for the cockpit canopy, in the air intake opening, and in the places where the stabilizers and wing planes are glued. Remember: when the defect “comes out” during painting (and it will definitely “appear”), it will be too late to correct it.

Adjusting the lantern

Fold the fuselage halves. They must fit together perfectly. If necessary, repeat sanding the halves using sandpaper. Attach a flashlight to the folded fuselage (while it can be secured with rubber bands). The lantern, again, must fit perfectly “in place”. Otherwise, carefully sand it down to fit it to the fuselage. There are “deadly” options - the canopy is thicker than the fuselage. Well, sand the plexiglass, then run to the store for the GOI infusion. With GOI paste it is quite possible to restore the transparency of the flashlight to a more than acceptable level.

Modern modellers use Future Floor Finish (Floor Wax)- American floor polishing liquid. Adds transparency and shine to clear decals.

It is much worse if a gap forms between the canopy and the fuselage, and the top of the canopy fits perfectly into the back of the fuselage. Such a defect can be “treated” with putty. The trouble is the color of the putty - white or light gray. The interior of the cabin has a completely different color. Painting the inside of putty with a glued lantern is a more difficult task than assembling a model of a ship in a bottle. The process is elementary only in one case - when at the bottom of the fuselage there is a huge cutout for the center section.

Customizing the cabin interior

Now it's time to separate the cockpit interior elements from the sprues: dashboard, floor, back wall. Customize the parts to fit by grinding and inserting them into the fuselage halves. Often the floor and instrument panel are too wide for the fuselage halves glued together. On some models side panels the cabins are molded integrally with the fuselage halves; on some, the cabin floor together with the side panels forms a kind of bathroom. The bathroom is also often wider than necessary. Adjust it to fit.

Now cut off the small parts of the cabin interior from the sprues - the control handle. pedals, pilot's seat. Peel them and put them in a box so as not to lose them.

Cabin interior painting

Sometimes during the construction of a model it is necessary to paint individual parts or subassemblies, the cabin in particular. Small parts should be prepared for assembly and painting in the same way as large ones: removing broken parts, traces of pushrods, cleaning casting seams, washing, drying and degreasing.

Pay careful attention to the selection of paints for the cabin interior. Group the pieces by color. Parts that are painted in different colors Conveniently clamped in crocodile clips. Make sure that the alligator’s “teeth” grip the parts securely - a stream of compressed air is quite capable of sweeping away a poorly secured part. First of all, the cockpit itself is painted in the base color (most often, these are the inner sides of the fuselage halves). After the base tone has completely dried, proceed to “painting” with a brush the elements of the cabin “decoration”: radio remote controls, trimmer controls, oxygen supply valve, etc. Most often these elements are painted black, but other colors are also found.

Before assembly, it is also worth painting visible internal surfaces air intakes and engine cylinders.

Dashboard trim

The easiest way is to transfer the included decal to the dashboard. Almost all models are equipped with such decals and almost all decals, at best, correspond to the realities by 20-30 percent. Much greater realism can be achieved by brushing the dashboard with water- or oil-based paints. Painting the dash the base color is necessary even when using a decal. It is easier to paint instrument panels on which individual instruments are imitated during casting, especially if the base color of the board, as on the Mustang or Zero, is black. The part is completely painted with matte black paint, then the edges of the instruments are outlined with a lead pencil. Finally, a drop of liquid glass or, at worst, colorless nail polish is placed on the scale of the device; after drying, the varnish or glass is lightly polished.

The Thunderbolt's instrument panel was painted black, and the instrument dials were painted white. Again, you'll have to start by painting the dashboard matte black. After complete drying, a drop of white paint is applied to the center of the simulated instrument scale and “smeared” to the edges of the instrument. After drying - varnish or glass plus polishing.

The next step towards realism is imitation of the instrument scales themselves. This work requires experience and accuracy. The scales are drawn with a thin brush.

Cabin interior assembly

After painting the interior elements of the cabin, you can begin assembly. Provided the parts are pre-fitted, it should not cause any difficulties. Contact points should be cleaned of paint. It is best to connect parts with liquid glue, using the capillary effect known from a physics course. The two parts are pressed tightly against each other, and a drop of liquid glue is applied to the joint. The drop will fill the smallest pores of the joint and the connection will be both strong and neat. When gluing, it is important that the glue does not get on painted surfaces, especially on the dashboard - painstaking work will go down the drain.

It is most convenient when the cabin interior is made in the form of a “bathtub”, as in the Thunderbolt model. The bath is assembled separately from the fuselage and after gluing it must dry at least overnight. With the first rays of the rising sun, you can try on the assembled module to the fuselage. If the module fits, glue it to one half of the fuselage and go to bed to fill it up. If not, adjust it using the familiar method of sanding, cutting and filing away excess plastic. After gluing the “bathtub” and the glue has set slightly, make a final check - once again put the fuselage halves together, one of which already has the cabin glued into it.

Assembling the fuselage halves

Typically, the instructions recommend applying glue to the joining surfaces of the fuselage halves. Most people do just this, but in this case there is a high probability of uncontrolled squeezing of excess glue onto the outer surfaces of the assembly. It is better to use the already familiar capillary effect: fold the halves and coat them along the contour with liquid glue, carefully apply the glue with a brush. True, this case also has its pitfalls: adhesives can easily get on your fingertips, and the latter can leave imprints that are difficult to remove on the surface of the fuselage. Try to keep your fingers away from the fuselage seam when applying the glue. The glued halves should be clamped with something (rubber bands, clothespins) and left to dry.

After drying for several hours, it is necessary to clean the adhesive seam flush, having previously protected the pilot’s cabin from sawdust with tape. Sometimes the seam has to be puttied. The putty should also be given time to dry thoroughly. The seam is cleaned with sandpaper of different grain sizes (from medium to fine).

The first step in assembling the aircraft model has been completed. You can smile proudly, proud of your achievement.

Let's add a wing and tail

It makes sense to start with the tail: until the wing is glued to the stabilizer and rudders, the height is easy to approach.

Correction of defects in the brutal tail

On most small scale Mustang, Thunderbolt and Zero fighter models, the stabilizer halves are cast in one piece (top and bottom together). Most often they are free of defects. If there are defects, it is recommended to use “hot cleaning”.

Heat the water to a boil and lower the part with the unnecessary bend into it for a few seconds. Remove the part and straighten it before it cools down. Repeat the operation (heating-bending) until the defect disappears.

Thinner parts require less heat. All tail surfaces have fairly thin leading and trailing edges, which can be completely eliminated by bathing in hot water It's easy to damage the edges. It is advisable to bend only the thick layer of stabilizer.

Prepare the halves of the stabilizer for gluing - sanding, washing, drying and degreasing.

Adjustment of tail surfaces

Insert the stabilizer half into the fuselage. As a rule, the joint location, even on good models, requires adjustment. The gap will have to be puttyed after gluing, but in the meantime we need to evaluate how accurately the surface of the stabilizer matches the sagging on the fuselage. If the bead is thicker, then it needs to be adjusted to the profile of the stabilizer, but if the stabilizer is thicker, then it would probably be better to increase the bead profile with putty after gluing half of the stabilizer.

Alignment and attachment of tail surfaces

Now that you have adjusted the tail unit in place, you can begin gluing it. If the rudder is given separately, then start with it. Apply maple to the mating surfaces and press the rudder to the fuselage. In most cases, the rudder is glued as if it were in the neutral position, so make sure by examining the model from the front, rear and top several times that correct position steering wheel

After the adhesive seam of the rudder and fuselage has cured, you can begin to attach the horizontal halves. Each half must be glued strictly at right angles to the plane of symmetry of the fuselage. It is best to check by eye whether the stabilizer is glued correctly by inspecting the assembly strictly from the rear with a 90-degree turn. In this case, the stabilizer occupies vertical position and it’s easier to mentally compare the relative positions of its halves; the halves should be on the same axis. Having set right angles, secure the halves of the stabilizer with something (for example, masking tape) until the glue dries completely.

Wing

Wing planes are sometimes given in two halves, upper and lower, sometimes right and left upper parts and a common lower part for the right and left planes; there are also wing planes cast in one piece. Problems that can arise with a wing are akin to a stabilizer problem.

Aligning and gluing the rigid wing

Defects in the rigid wing are eliminated using the already familiar “heating-bending” method. Then the plane is adjusted to the center section. When gluing the planes, you should control the transverse “V” angle and the installation angle of attack. It is important to maintain the same angles of attack and “V” for both planes. Even small discrepancies in the angles of the planes will be clearly visible on the assembled model. It is convenient to control the uniformity of the transverse angle by the width of the gaps between the planes and the center section. Gluing the planes. Check the installation angles and secure the position of the wing with masking tape or tape. After the glue has hardened, the cracks are puttied and sanded. Working with emery at the junction of the plane and the fuselage is extremely inconvenient, and the jointing is almost always damaged during the work. However, there’s nothing you can do, don’t leave a gap. With the proper skill, it is quite possible to restore the jointing.

Alignment and gluing of wing planes from two halves

The first step is to grind the ends of the halves of the planes using sandpaper; a similar operation has already been done with the halves of the fuselage. Let's fold the halves of one plane and carefully examine. Ideally, the ends of the halves, their ends and jointing lines should converge. In practice, we usually have to remember the saying “the tail is out, the nose is stuck.” After combining the highlanders, one of the endings “leaves” somewhere, the jointing lines do not match. It is best to take the coincidence of the jointing lines of the upper and lower halves as a reference point when gluing. Preparation for gluing is carried out as usual. The halves are folded again and secured with narrow strips of camouflage data. Gluing occurs due to the work of the capillary effect - but the perimeter of the plane is passed with a brush with liquid glue. After the glue has set, the fixing strips are removed, and glue is dripped onto the joints that they covered. While one plane is drying, you can work on the second. Finishing of surfaces and, especially, the edges of the plane is carried out only after the glue has completely dried. The assembled planes are glued to the fuselage in the same way as solid halves. Once again, it doesn’t hurt to remind you: control the installation angles, first of all, the transverse “V” angle.

Aligning and gluing a three-piece wing

The process of assembling a wing from three parts (two upper halves of the planes and one lower one, cast in one piece with the lower surface of the center section) will be different than assembling wings from four and two parts.

Prepare the parts for gluing as usual. Replace the lower part of the wing and secure it with masking tape. Check the installation angles. Then place the upper ladles of the planes in place and also secure them with tape (the same problems may arise here as when joining the upper and lower halves of a four-part wing: mismatching of the tips and jointing lines). Check the cross "V" again. If you need to reduce the angle, insert thin plastic spacers of the same thickness into the gaps between the fuselage and the upper halves. Glue the lower wing piece to the fuselage. After drying, once again check the transverse “V” and the correct fit of the upper halves of the planes. If everything is fine, make the capillary effect work for the good cause of gluing the upper halves to the lower part. After the main adhesive seam has set, remove the tape and apply glue to the joints previously covered with masking tape.

The assembly must be completely dry before puttying and cleaning. Sanding the edges of the wing and the junction of the planes with the center section completes an important step in assembling the model. Now the model already looks like an airplane.

Glue for models

Model stores offer a fairly large assortment of glue for models from different manufacturers and for different types of work. At first it is quite difficult for a beginner to understand this diversity. I hope this article, based on personal experience, will be useful to beginning modeling enthusiasts.

As a rule, everyone first buys glue for “Star” models. This glue has two advantages: it is available in all model stores and costs a penny. This is where the advantages end and after a very short time the glue from the bottle ends up spilled on the table at best, or on the carpet at worst, because... The shape of the bottle is designed just for this. In general, try it - you won't like it. :)

Tamiya cement extra thin model glue with lemon scent

This glue for models is our everything! Excellent for gluing PS plastic from which models are made, it leaves virtually no marks on the surface of the model. The lid is equipped with a brush, which is convenient for applying glue to the surfaces to be glued. The bottle is very stable, you won't accidentally turn it over.

Glue can be applied to the joints of parts before gluing, or you can first join the parts and then simply carefully apply a small amount of glue to the joint. Due to its good fluidity, the glue itself will spread over the joint and reliably wet the surfaces to be glued. In general, they are a pleasure to work with!

Tamiya has two types of this glue, lemon scented (in fact, it smells more like orange) and traditional (green label). I chose glue with a fragrance (it’s a little more expensive) so as not to cause unpleasant sensations to my household.

As practice shows, this amount of glue will last for a very long time, the consumption is minimal. The glue is very economical.

Adhesive for Tamiya cement models with lemon scent

It has a thicker consistency and the brush is thicker. The rest of the characteristics are the same quality glue.

I use it in cases where I need to practically “weld” one part to another. Although, liquid glue copes with this task just as well.

I read somewhere on the forums that this glue can be diluted and you can get exactly the same liquid glue as Tamiya Extra Thin, but I forgot what. In the same way, there is an analogue of glue without fragrance.

Cyanoacrylic glue

Cyanoacrylic glue Super Moment. 3 gr.

Sold in any supermarket in 3 gram packages and under different brands. Used when you need to glue parts made of tin, photo-etching or any other materials other than model plastic. For example, all the tin parts were glued together with this glue. In online model stores you can find specialized glue for models based on cyanoacrylate. In fact, this is the same glue from the supermarket, only several times more expensive, I don’t see the point in buying it.

Super glue sets instantly, which is a disadvantage in our business, because... it is impossible to adjust the location of the parts to be glued after they are connected. A part glued with this glue can easily come off if you apply a certain amount of force, so you need to be careful.

For ease of use, I use empty tablet packaging. I squeeze a drop of glue into the “cup” and apply it to the surface to be glued with a simple toothpick. It turns out very neat and economical.

“Palette and brush” for super glue

It's important to remember that cyanoacrylate vapors are quite toxic and it is better to work with it in a ventilated area. Well, try to keep your nose away from the gluing area, which is not always possible :)

Glue "Moment"

Universal glue Moment

“Moment” is convenient for gluing large parts made of tin to plastic. Before gluing, you need to apply a thin layer of glue to both parts, wait a while, and then press them together. It is convenient because you can adjust the position of the parts for some time after gluing; excess glue can be easily cleaned off. The gluing area must be allowed to dry.

Denis Demin, AllModels channel, recommends diluting Moment glue with a solvent to obtain a more liquid consistency, which makes it more convenient to work with.

Glue moment crystal

Transparent glue Moment “Crystal”

I'm thinking of trying it as model glue for gluing transparent parts. Conducted an experiment on a transparent sprue. So far it’s not very impressive: air bubbles form in the drop and the glue dissolves the plastic a little.

Experiment with glue "Crystal"

Perhaps with a thinner layer of glue the result would be better.

PVA

PVA-based glue is sold in any supermarket or office supply store. In its original form it is an opaque white liquid. But, when dry, it becomes almost transparent. The degree of transparency, as I understand it, depends on the purification of the glue. In general, most specialized clear glue for models is well-refined PVA. In the photo below you can see the degree of transparency of the PVA glue after drying.

Experiment with PVA glue

Actually, Futura is a floor polishing liquid, but it is used in modeling as a very fluid and opaque varnish. You can read more about Futura at this link. But in some cases it can also be used for gluing transparent parts. The gluing area must be dried for 24 hours.

There are certain difficulties in purchasing this “miracle liquid” in Russia, but I found a wonderful online store where you can buy “Futura” in 120 or 35 ml packaging. It may not be available, but the guys carry it. Monitor supplies. I recommend!

How to use model glue correctly

Do not pour a lot of liquid glue into the joint of parts, the result will not get better, but the likelihood that it will flow under your fingers or tweezers with which you hold the part, and they will leave an annoying imprint on the plastic, increases greatly.

If you accidentally spill glue on your model, do not try to wipe it off., you'll only make it worse! It’s better to let it dry well, and then carefully sand the area where the glue got in, in this case, the “destruction” will be minimal.

Make sure that liquid glue does not flow under the masking tape., he loves it and as a result, when you remove the tape, a surprise will await you and a section of “floating” plastic.

The place where the super glue is glued is quite fragile. A little force and the part flies off. Be careful. It is advisable to degrease the gluing area; it will hold much better.

Let the Futura bonded area dry for at least 12 hours. And even after this, the result will not be the same as if we glued with ordinary model glue.

I like both scenarios in this picture :)

In this article about glue for models, I am simply sharing my modest experience and will be glad to receive any comments and additions. Write comments!

An interesting and great article about aircraft modeling, how to paint models correctly, what tools are needed and what needs to be taken into account when modeling aircraft.

The production and collection of prefabricated aircraft models occupies a very special place among the numerous types of modern technical creativity. Assembling models from ready-made plastic parts requires patience, precision, accuracy, good knowledge of the history of technology and, along with other types of model making, is considered a real art. But it was he who was most unlucky. For some reason, many people believe that in order to assemble a model, the instructions included in the box are enough. And since after such work you end up with a one-color, dull model with glue smudges in your hands, what kind of creativity is there! Meanwhile, assembly is only part of the exciting work on a model of a particular historical car. We must also try to recreate her true appearance so that she looks just like the real one...

In this article we will try to teach you how to assemble models correctly
aircraft from sets of ready-made parts and will give several model designs for independent production. Among them there are also flying homemade products for recreation and entertainment.

Collect as accurately and reliably as possible

Imagine for a moment that they bought you a bright, beautiful box, inside of which there is small miracle— replica parts of a real aircraft made to exact scale. Of course, you'll want to get to work right away. But no matter how great this desire is, take your time!

In order to assemble a copy model as accurately and reliably as possible, you will have to spend a lot of work, and most importantly, learn how to work correctly.

Typical technology system making a prefabricated aircraft model according to the instructions included in the box is shown in Figure 1. However, most often it is not possible to work according to it: not all kits have glue, the correct coloring of the model is not always shown, not all kits include parts - decals with identification marks . Special paints are not available for sale either. That is why, when working on a model, listen to the advice given below; they have been tested many times by experience by a variety of modellers.

Rice. 1. Technology for manufacturing prefabricated models from polystyrene: a - painting small parts on sprues; b - cutting parts from the sprue frame; c - piercing a tube of glue; d, e - applying glue; e - tightening glued units and parts with an elastic band; g - installation of parts; h - gluing the propeller; and - application of decorative stripes (so-called “invasion stripes”); j - application of spotted camouflage; l — markings for wavy camouflage; m - translation of identification marks.

First of all, never glue the model “tightly” right away. Of course, your desire to quickly see your “brainchild” assembled is understandable, but by rushing to glue it together, you doom yourself to extra hassle, and the model will never have a high-quality appearance. Glue in such a way that you can disassemble the model without damage or remove the necessary parts without damaging them.

Agree that it is not very convenient to paint the assembled chassis, rocket blocks, cockpit with a pilot inside, etc. And nothing good will come of it. That is why, in order to paint a small part, firstly, do not remove it from the sprue, and, secondly, use matches and plasticine to re-attach it, pushing the part onto them.

In some cases, in order to avoid gluing the part to the painted area later, you can use another method. On the part to be painted, such as an outboard fuel tank, mark where the pylon will be glued. Then glue a small piece of polystyrene to this place, simulating a pylon. After the glue has dried, paint the tank, which is very convenient to hold in your hands using this glued piece of polystyrene. Now break off a piece of polystyrene and glue it onto the pylon itself, also pre-painted. In this case, the joint will be clean and neat, and its strength will increase significantly.

In this way you can paint a wide variety of parts. If you paint parts without cutting them off the sprues, then protect the gluing areas with melted paraffin, or even better, thick gouache: it does not leave greasy stains and is easily washed off with water.

Only after painting the small parts can you begin to assemble the main elements of the model. It really doesn’t present any particular difficulties, but a few words should still be said about applying glue to polystyrene parts. You can squeeze glue out of a soft polyethylene bubble through a small hole, and from a small glass bubble through a capillary tube. It is good to use a thin wire or needle for this purpose, and for large surfaces to be glued together, soft (squirrel) brushes No. 1, 2 and 4 (if the surface is especially large). The parts can be glued only after they have been cleared of flash, burrs and sprue residues.

If the kit does not contain glue, use toluene, mekol, “pear essence” available in hardware stores (in small quantities for such an important task, you can ask for it in the school chemistry room), solvent for nitro paints 647. Individual parts can be additionally used for greater strength. “cook” with an electric burner, setting it to the lowest heat.

During assembly Special attention pay attention to respecting the scale of the model and the quality of individual parts in terms of their proportionality. Most often, this requirement is not met by the landing gear struts and doors, the tail of bombs and missiles, etc. It is not difficult to shorten the struts, but to lengthen them you can take pieces of sprue plastic and process them accordingly. Sometimes the landing gear doors are excessively thick. This defect can be easily eliminated by rubbing them with sandpaper or needle files. This should not be done very quickly so that the plastic does not heat up.

Often, weapons on models of military equipment are shown very conditionally. This deficiency can be corrected using a metal rod or wire of the appropriate diameter. The tip of the rod must be heated and used to deepen the bed of a cannon or machine gun barrel, giving it a more believable appearance. You can also imitate the protruding barrels of cannons and machine guns by melting short wires into their stocks. Such “refinement” of the model often increases its strength, since parts made of polystyrene often fall off when cleaning models. And you still have to clean the models sooner or later, even if they are protected from dust by hoods or are in cabinets behind glass.

At the ends of the wings and on the fuselage (aircraft body), you can imitate flashing or marker lights or headlights. To do this, you need to make cutouts in the right places and insert “lights” carved from transparent, red or green organic glass into them.

Antennas are usually made from fishing line, but it is better to use for these purposes a metal winding wire with a diameter of 0.1 mm, which can be taken from an old small-sized relay. There is another method, shown in Figure 2, - drawing threads from polystyrene sprues. First, the sprue is heated over the flame of a candle 1, then they try the heating level 2 and, spreading their hands to the sides 3, pull out the thread, keeping it away from the fire 4. True, for thin radio antennas this method is of little use, since the resulting threads are very fragile, but it the simplest and fastest. In addition, this way you can get quite thick rods, which can be very useful when working on models.

You should not make antennas from ordinary threads either: they very quickly become “shaggy” due to dust settling on them.

Often modellers do not install stretchers on biplane aircraft because of the apparent complexity of their implementation. It's actually quite simple. To tighten the guy lines, you need to use a heated needle or awl to make through holes in the wings at the places where they are attached, and then pull the guy wires through them, which are best made from wire with a diameter of 0.1 mm. Sometimes streamers are made from threads pre-impregnated with silver. After they are tensioned, in the places where they are pulled it is necessary to drop a drop of glue such as “Moment-1”, BF or another. After the glue has dried, you need to trim off the excess threads, then fill the broaching areas, sand them with fine sandpaper and varnish them. If you do all this carefully, then after painting the broaches on the wings will be almost invisible.

Many purchased models have “underfilling”, uneven surfaces and other shortcomings caused by the aging of the molds on which they are made. To correct these imperfections, putty is required. It is practically not available for sale, and therefore you have to make it yourself. To do this, in a hermetically sealed glass jar you should fill in the finely chopped sprue from the model and fill
acetone. In a day the putty will be ready. It should be taken into account that it takes a long time to dry and can dissolve the plastic of the model. Therefore, before use, it is worth checking the putty on the sprue of the model on which it will be used. By the way, various simple parts can be cast from putty in molds.

Here are some tips on how to “revive” your models. Models with open cockpits, bomb bays, movable rudders, etc. look very effective. It is not difficult to make wings that fold on hinges for deck-based aircraft. This is easiest to do on those models whose wings fold upward. It’s interesting to make helicopters and transport vehicles, for example, with figures of “paratroopers” at open doors. Models that simulate engine operation look good. For example, ordinary 2.5 V flashlight bulbs can be inserted into the nozzles of jet aircraft, and a Uranus type battery (1.5 V) can be placed in the fuselage. The light bulb must be powered with reduced voltage to prevent the nozzles from melting. Most piston aircraft models easily accommodate microelectric motors. With their help you can rotate the propeller. The shaft is metal and connected to the electric motor using a flexible transmission, such as a rubber tube. In order to avoid its destruction, the shaft should be “passed” into the nose part in a tube, for example, from the refill of a ballpoint pen. Switches can be very diverse. All these modifications are not very labor-intensive, and almost everyone can do it.

From almost all models, with the help of small alterations, you can obtain various modifications of the prototype aircraft and even new ones. For example, from the N-60 “Gypsy Motor” model you can make a whole series of Soviet aircraft by A. Yakovlev - AIR-1, AIR-2, AIR-3, AIR-4. At the same time, new products are almost as good as factory ones.

Almost any model has hidden reserves, but in order to successfully find them, you need to familiarize yourself with the necessary drawings and descriptions of the aircraft.
In the same way, not only prefabricated models of aircraft are assembled, but also tanks, ships, cars, and models of space technology.

Paint cleanly and neatly

The appearance of the prefabricated model depends greatly on the coloring. In this case, for scales 1:72, 1:100 or 1:144, coloring and finishing become decisive. There cannot be any small details in this work, because maximum reliability is the main requirement for a copy model.

So, about painting technology. Each experienced modeler has his own secrets and techniques for this work, but all of them are variations of two main methods: painting with a brush and using an airbrush (spray). The first method is relatively simple and accessible to everyone, especially novice modelers. The second requires a source of compressed air, an airbrush and much more, which somewhat complicates the possibility of its distribution.

When working with a brush, the question arises of what paints are suitable for applying to polystyrene, from which aircraft parts are cast. Just not nitro enamels! Nothing good will come of it - the nitro base corrodes the plastic, the paint dries quickly, stretches, and the surface turns out rough and uneven. For brush painting you need to use alkyd enamels. They have excellent hiding power, give a thin, even layer and a shiny surface. Their drying time is 6-12 hours depending on the temperature and thickness of the coating. You must have five primary colors: red, blue, yellow, white and black. With their help you can get a wide variety of colors, as well as any shades. If you can only find white alkyd enamel, don’t be upset - you can use art oil paints, which are sold in stationery stores, as dyes.

You can also use these oil paints as base paints - with thinner No. 2 (white spirit or turpentine). After drying, the surface painted with them becomes deeply matte, which is especially important for replica models of aircraft from the period of the 2nd World War. Artistic paints take one or two days to dry - this is their only drawback.

There is no need to specially prepare the surface of the model for painting with brushes; just wash it in warm water with a toothbrush and soap. By the way, about brushes: you need one or two round ones No. 1-3 for painting parts and two or three flat ones No. 5-9. The size of the brushes depends on the size of the model - the larger the model, the larger the size of the brushes you should take. Brushes should be semi-hard, hair brushes (preferably from kolinsky, sable or badger). Bristle ones are not suitable for such fine work. The sequence of applying the paint layer is from lighter to darker.

The airbrush provides a wealth of possibilities when painting models. Of course, it is much more difficult to work with than with a brush, but the result is a perfectly smooth surface, matte or shiny. In addition, the use of an airbrush allows you to convey various types of protective coloring (camouflage), imitate traces of use, repair, influence of atmospheric phenomena, etc.

The compressor from a household refrigerator is most often used as a source of compressed air, although it needs to be modified. First of all, remove the nichrome spiral from the starting box, replacing it with a piece of copper wire (all this, of course, can only be done on a compressor from a refrigerator that has become unusable, after consulting with your parents and with their assistance!). The spiral may not need to be replaced, but in this case the compressor may stop at the most inopportune moment. It should be remembered that the refrigerator unit is not designed for long-term operation, so do not let it run idle.

Often small droplets of oil fly out of the compressor outlet tube along with the air; their contact with the surface to be painted is extremely undesirable. Therefore, an oil filter or sump should be installed at the outlet, which will also play the role of a receiver - a storage device that smoothes out the jerky flow of air. It can be made from the inner tube of a soccer ball. From a rubber hose at least 2 m long, tightly fitted to the airbrush fitting, cut a piece about 0.5 m in size. Place one end of it on the compressor outlet tube and seal it with a clamp and electrical tape. Insert the second end into the chamber together with the end of a long piece of hose and also seal the connection. Aim for a complete seal to avoid loss of air pressure.

But what about those who were unable to get either an airbrush or a compressor? This is where a regular spray bottle can come to the rescue. Such a sprayer will also help when painting the model, but, unfortunately, the standard device can only be used 1-2 times, after which it becomes completely clogged with paint.

Simple modifications will help turn it into a reliable “spray gun”. To do this, you need to change the bending radii of the outer and inner tubes and shorten the shank of the outer one, as shown in Figure 3, a. The purpose of this upgrade is to enable the development and assembly of the device. The thin inner tube should slide out easily from the outer one. This will allow you to wash the spray gun parts in solvent after painting.

A little about the techniques for using such a sprayer. First of all, it is necessary to achieve a finely dispersed torch by changing the position of the nozzle. In this case, the length of the latter should be about 0.4 m. Before work, the paint must be filtered. You should always have a bottle of solvent for nitro paints on hand. As soon as the color “cloud” becomes heterogeneous and clumps of paint begin to fly from the nozzle, the bottle of paint must be replaced with a bottle of solvent. A few pumps with a rubber bulb - and the device is ready for use again.

After finishing painting, do not forget to clean up everything after yourself and thoroughly rinse all parts with solvent.

A fairly decent airbrush sprayer can also be made using a microcompressor for supplying air to the aquarium and two empty ballpoint pen refills (Fig. 3, b). You need to remove the balls from the rods, being careful not to deform them with the tips, and connect them at right angles to each other using an appropriate device (for example, a tin clip). Then you need to put a hose from the compressor on one rod, and lower the other into a jar of paint. The airbrush is ready to go. The paint supply can be adjusted either by changing the position of the rods or by using the adjusting screw on the compressor.

It may happen that you have a real industrial airbrush at your disposal, but without a compressor. As a pressure source, we can recommend an ordinary household siphon for preparing sparkling water (Fig. 3, c). In this case, there is no need to pour water into the container, but sequentially charge two cans of carbon dioxide at once. Connect the “nose” of the siphon to the airbrush with a rubber hose. One such charge lasts a long time.

But the last recommendation will no doubt be appreciated by those of you who have already taken part in exhibitions and bench modeling competitions. The fact is that bench models require. They treat themselves with a very “delicate” attitude and sometimes receive unwanted damage during transportation. But if the broken part is easy to glue (if only there was glue!), then taking with you an airbrush, compressor, or even just a spray bottle just to touch up the peeling paint here and there is very difficult. Of course, this can be done with a brush, but on a surface “blown out” with sprayers, such repairs are immediately noticeable and only worsen the appearance of the model.

"Repair in field conditions“becomes quite possible if you use a simple pocket plastic inhaler, which can be converted into a spray atomizer in a matter of minutes (Fig. 4). Pass a thin tube or donor needle 3 through the lid of the jar, and to allow air to escape, make a hole in the lid or insert a piece of tube 4. Plastic hose 5 (it is included in the kit) is used to supply paint to the spray unit 6. Now pour nitro paint into a nylon jar from - under the glue for prefabricated models and you can start working.

It should be noted that nitro enamels are most suitable for painting models using all these devices. Before applying them, the surface of the model must be primed using a composition consisting of four parts of acetone and one part of glypthal primer GF-21. The components are shaken, after which they must be allowed to settle in a tightly sealed container. The resulting transparent pinkish liquid is applied to the model with an airbrush immediately before painting - thanks to this, the nitro paint is “welded” to the plastic.

Before painting, nitro enamel must be diluted with acetone or solvents (646; 647): the paint should be liquid, but not “transparent”. When working with an airbrush, observe the following rules: press the paint supply button, pointing the airbrush away from the model, otherwise the first large splashes of blots may fall on the surface. Hold the airbrush at a distance of 15...20 cm, depending on the diameter of the nozzle and what parts are being painted. The hand with the airbrush must be in motion all the time, otherwise streaks may form on the surface. Remember that the complete drying time for nitro enamels is 1 hour, so each layer must dry thoroughly.

And now a few words about how to solve the problem with silver paint; you cannot do without it when making copy models.

Some plastic airplane model kits come with excellent silver paint. But here’s the problem - even if you are lucky enough to purchase such a model, as soon as you open the bottle, after a short time the composition thickens and becomes unusable. And this paint is not always enough, and replacing it with other compositions gives, to put it mildly, unsatisfactory results.

But it turns out that even using available pigments you can make excellent paint yourself. For this, in addition to aluminum powder from the usual kit available in hardware stores, you will need fir varnish (it can be purchased at specialized art stores) and solvent 646. The mixture is prepared in a cylindrical glass vial (for example, from penicillin), into which you pour two volume parts of pigment, and using a pipette, pour in one part of fir varnish and two more of solvent. The resulting mass is shaken. To lift pigment that settles during storage from the bottom, it is useful to place one or two balls from a bicycle bearing in a bottle.

Homemade paint dries in 20... 25 minutes and appearance After drying, it is practically no different from the “standard” paint.

But some modellers prepare this paint from a small amount (20...500 mg) of aluminum paste (not powder!) and solvent 646. Nitrovarnish is added to the mixture. You can paint with a brush or an airbrush. Before spraying, it is recommended to paint the model in White color.

A concentrated solution will help remove paint from already painted bench models. caustic soda(caustic soda), into which the model is immersed for 1-2 days. Before removing the paint, it is necessary to peel off the canopy, since transparent polystyrene becomes cloudy in this solution. To apply clear color boundaries to the model, it is easiest to make “masks” from wet newsprint or paint individual parts of the model (for example, the upper and lower surfaces of the wings) before joining them. Self-adhesive adhesive tape of the “scotch” type has too strong adhesive ability and often comes off along with the paint, so when using it, its surface should be powdered with talcum powder or tooth powder.

If you need to reproduce blurry camouflage, a mask cut out of thick paper or transparent film is held at a distance of several millimeters from the surface of the model, carefully spraying paint. This technique is quite simple, however, in order not to spoil the model, you need to practice first - “get your hands on” on unnecessary pieces of polystyrene or paper. But with some skill, camouflage spots can be applied without a mask.

After the model is painted, let it dry thoroughly before applying decals to it. If you need to get a matte surface, blow out the model with a thinly diluted nitro varnish from a long distance, after covering the transparent parts with masks - lanterns, headlights, etc. For the same purpose, you can use a colorless matte varnish or paint it with nitro paint with tooth powder added to it.

Naturally, when painting a model, a lot will depend on the design of the prototype aircraft itself and the materials from which it was made.

That's how they were, that's how they are

In order for the aircraft model you assemble to be truly of high quality, it must be as reliable as possible. And for this it is necessary to have a good understanding of the history of the development of aviation, to have an idea of ​​​​the technology of aviation production, the features of the use of winged equipment, and its operation in different conditions. Without this, all your work may be in vain. Therefore, here we will try to briefly introduce you to what these or those aircraft were made of, what identification marks and emblems they bore. All this will help you in your work.

When assembling aircraft models from the period of the First World War, you should take into account that the hulls of most of them were made of wood and sheathed with aircraft-grade plywood or canvas impregnated with nitro-lacquer and therefore having a yellowish tint. The structure of the fabric that covered the planes was indistinguishable even on a real car (after all, the surface of the aircraft was carefully painted and polished), so there is no point in trying to reproduce it on a model. The biplane model should be painted before final assembly, and then scrape off the paint where the joints meet, because the glue will not give a strong connection to the paintwork.

When painting, take into account the peculiarities of camouflage in different countries. During the Civil War, Red Army pilots flew both aircraft captured in battle and those produced in domestic factories. The most common fighter aircraft were Spud and Nieuport, which were painted silver in the Russian and later Red Army. It is known that these machines suffered a lot of wear and tear, and their repairs were carried out in the field, so when painting parts that imitate canvas and plywood parts, you need to add a little matte white or light gray to the aluminum paint. This will give the effect of a faded surface.

English-made aircraft captured from the interventionists and White Guards were usually not repainted, and new identification marks were applied by hand directly to the blue-white-red English cockades. If desired, you can imitate patches on damaged parts of the fuselage or wing by painting them in a lighter shade of the base color. Usually the patches were shaped like a circle or a quadrangle.
On planes of the First World War period, with multi-color camouflage, the border of colors was clearly expressed.

On the planes of the Kaiser's Germany, the fabric covering of the wings and fuselage had the appearance of multi-colored polygons of regular geometric shape. It is interesting that the fabric arrived at aircraft factories after being dyed at a weaving factory. But on a model, this type of camouflage is best imitated with a brush, although this work requires a certain skill. The paint of aircraft of this period was usually semi-matte, although the aircraft that had just rolled off the assembly line had a perfectly shiny surface, they quickly lost their appearance during operation.

At final finishing and finishing the model from the times of the First World War, it is necessary to remember the following little things: wooden propellers were subjected to careful polishing, so when painting the model propeller, you need to imitate the texture of wood and its color. If the model is large enough, the screw can be made of wood or plywood and not painted. Metal cover for the screw hub - dull gray. The crankcase and engine cylinders are painted to resemble dull metal. To do this, you can add dark gray or brown or both in different proportions to silver paint. The cylinder pushers should be made of a bright silver color, and the exhaust pipes should be made to match the color of rust, which they acquired during long-term use. Machine guns must be coated with dark gray paint and in some places “aged” with brushstrokes to resemble dull metal.

The tires on the wheels of veteran aircraft had a pronounced gray tint, so before painting the landing gear wheels, you need to add a fair amount of white to the matte black paint or mix tooth powder into the shiny black paint. To imitate dirt streaks on wheels, add white paint to dark brown paint, mix thoroughly and carefully apply with a brush in the desired location. The main thing is not to put too much paint. Smoke streaks from exhaust gases are best applied with an airbrush, and the color of exhaust contamination on the fuselage can be dark gray or gray-brown. This work requires accuracy and thoroughness; when performing it, you should be guided by the rule “less is better than more.”

During the Second World War, various types of camouflage colors were used, which can be divided into three groups: “chopped” - camouflage with a sharp, geometrically broken border of colors; “wavy” - when there is a wavy border of colors; "spotted" - when various color spots are applied to the wings and fuselage of the aircraft. The border between colors could be blurry or clear. For replica models made on a large scale, this is a secondary issue, since in this case the color boundaries will look clear in any case, but a scale of 1:24 or 1:32 allows you to simulate the “blurring” of the color boundaries of camouflage.

An important question is the degree of gloss of the paint coating applied to the model. Both too shiny and too matte paint on a model make it unreliable. Unlike cars, airplanes of that time, with rare exceptions, did not have a polished surface, but, on the other hand, we must not forget about the effect of scale. A 1:72 scale model from a distance of 0.25 m looks (or should look) the same as a real aircraft from a distance of about 18 m. And at this distance, even matte paint takes on a certain shine to the observer. Therefore, the most reliable is the degree of gloss, which is aptly named “ eggshell" This smooth, semi-matte coating, whose shine resembles the shell of a fresh chicken egg, produces the most beneficial results. new impression.

It should be noted that the exact shade of this or that color in which the aircraft were painted can no longer be accurately indicated even for those countries where the strictest instructions existed in this regard. Sun, rain, dew, repair work, the inevitable aging of paint, and even simply not stirring it well enough before use caused the most bizarre changes in the paint of aircraft.

When painting models, you need to know that before the war, most Soviet Air Force aircraft were painted light gray and silver. Then the main color became dark green with a slight brown tint on the upper and side surfaces. The lower planes were, as a rule, blue color. At the beginning of 1941, instructions were adopted on camouflage painting of aircraft. They were repainted in the field, due to which the lower surfaces sometimes remained the original light gray color, and large round spots of brown or black were applied to the main green background. Sometimes spots of the original color remained on the upper surfaces, which created a three-color camouflage that was very rare for Soviet aviation.

In the painting of Soviet aircraft during the Great Patriotic War, two stages can be clearly distinguished. The first (initial) was characterized by a wide variety of paint schemes, which was due both to the lack of sufficient experience in this area and to the suddenness of the attack by Nazi Germany. At first, all new aircraft of Yakovlev, Lavochkin and Mikoyan, the production of which had been mastered even before the war, were produced in the old protective paint. From the second half of 1941, all aircraft leaving the assembly shops of aircraft factories received camouflage painting in the form of large spots of brown and green. Moreover, brown paint had a green tint, and green paint, on the contrary, had a brown tint. This scheme was used for both day and night aircraft on almost all fronts. On most aircraft, the underside surfaces were painted blue.

During the first war winter of 1941 - 1942. the planes had winter camouflage in white-gray or white. The lower surfaces remained blue. Interestingly, in the spring of 1942, as a result of exposure to weather conditions on aircraft, the so-called “spring” camouflage appeared, when the original colors began to appear through the white paint.

While aircraft that typically operated during the day had blue undersurfaces (light gray was used only on some multi-engine aircraft), night aircraft had black undersurfaces. These were mainly bombers, transport and communications aircraft that flew behind enemy lines, for example Li-2, Po-2, etc. Sometimes these aircraft were painted on the top and sides with a special matte dark blue-green paint. Some planes were entirely black.

Other paint schemes were also used to paint Soviet aircraft. For example: grass green and black colors for areas with rich vegetation; sandy and brown colors - for the southern sections of the front; small brown spots on a green background - mainly in the south of Ukraine and the Caucasus in 1942-1943.

Some vehicles (usually multi-engine) even used three-color camouflage, combining spots of gray, green and brown-green (Li-2) or light green, ocher and black-green (Yak-6).

In the second half of the war, i.e. from the middle, 1943, the coloring of Soviet aircraft changed radically. It became more standard and was a combination of two shades of gray - darker and lighter, and at the very end of the war the planes had a monochromatic gray-green color. This applies primarily to such vehicles as the La-5fn, Yak-9, Yak-3, La-7, Tu-2, etc.

Among the aircraft of the Soviet Air Force, one cannot ignore a fairly large group of aircraft whose coloring differed from the standard one for completely different reasons. It's about about aviation equipment supplied to us by our allies under Lend-Lease (military aid), as a rule, in their original form. Thus, English-made aircraft had spots of dark green and dark earthen (brown) colors, and later - combinations of gray-green and dark gray “sea” colors. The lower surfaces of these machines were colored " duck eggs"or painted light gray. US aircraft were a solid olive (dirty green with a brown tint) color on top and light gray underneath. Only gradually were these cars repainted to Soviet standards. The use of radar equipment and the creation of fundamentally new jet technology has posed fundamentally new tasks for military specialists in camouflaging combat aircraft. That is why in the USA, Great Britain, Germany and some other countries, engineers, doctors, psychologists, artists are widely involved in this work today, and the most modern technology is used.

In the first post-war years, most jet aircraft, especially our Soviet ones, were not painted at all and had a silver-gray color, which was gradually replaced by camouflage coloring. Aircraft such as Tu-16, Tu-20 and Tu-22 remained silver.

An interesting trend in aircraft camouflage was the so-called reverse-shadow painting scheme developed in the United States in the early 70s, used on interceptor fighters. Its action is to level out natural light using different shades of gray. individual parts aircraft: those areas that usually look lighter are covered with darker paint, and vice versa.

In the late 70s, tests of such a camouflage scheme were carried out by the British Air Force. In 1979, a reverse-shadow paint scheme (three shades of gray) was adopted for the Phantom-2 air defense fighters, and a little later for the Lightning and Tornado fighters, and Hawk light combat training aircraft. Simultaneously with the introduction of a new camouflage color, the size of the identification marks was reduced, and pastel shades were used instead of bright blue and red colors. The brightness of various stenciled inscriptions was also muted. Although the identification marks and emblems of the squadrons have been temporarily preserved, if emergency circumstances arise, they will be painted over, according to the foreign press.

During the Anglo-Argentine armed conflict over the Falkland Islands (Malvinas), the issue of aircraft camouflage was also closely addressed by the British Navy. The Sea Harrier carrier-based fighters, which before being sent to the South Atlantic had the traditional gray-white coloring for naval aviation (and, according to British experts, the white paint on the lower surfaces of the aircraft was too reflective), became plain gray. The white ring was removed from the identification marks. In addition, the squadron emblems were painted over, and bright inscriptions and symbols were removed.

The German Air Force developed its own camouflage scheme, which uses gray and green colors, as well as broken lines, which is reminiscent of the coloring of planes of Nazi Germany.

Work on creating new effective schemes camouflage covering aircraft are being carried out in various directions. Sometimes they take the most original forms. Thus, in Canada, an experiment was conducted in which a mirror image of its upper part (canopy, fin and other elements) was applied to the lower part of the fuselage of the CF-18 fighter. According to experts, this method of camouflage turned out to be very effective, since during training battles, pilots of “enemy” aircraft experienced serious difficulties in determining the spatial position of CF-18 aircraft painted in this way and, naturally, the intentions of their crews. However, Canadian Air Force specialists have so far refrained from further disseminating this experience in order to “ensure flight safety in peacetime.”

The most suitable camouflage scheme for European conditions is considered to be alternating dark green and dark gray spots with zigzag edges. Buccaneer light bombers, Jaguar fighters and some other aircraft are painted this way. Phantom fighters are camouflaged with lighter colors: light green and dark gray spots on top, and light gray and white with a blue tint below.

Basic Nimrod patrol aircraft and Lightning fighter-interceptors, operating primarily over the sea, are painted so that they are not visible from above against the background of the sea, and from below - against the background of clouds.

In contrast, training vehicles must be bright enough to be visible from afar. However, some of them where questions are worked out combat use, has the same camouflage as combat aircraft.

The camouflage coloring of helicopters is similar to that of aircraft intended for operations against ground targets from low and extremely low altitudes. However, search and rescue helicopters are typically painted bright yellow.

Certain types of aircraft may be painted in other (non-standard) colors. For example, they were painted white with black spots and stripes so that they would not stand out particularly against the background earth's surface, covered with snow and stones, Harrier vertical take-off and landing aircraft participating in flights over Norway.

It is extremely important for modellers and collectors to be able to paint identification marks correctly, especially if they were unable to obtain a factory-made decalcomania. Here the already mentioned stencil masks with a cut-out image should come to the rescue.

When finishing a model, it is important not only to know the history well, but also to observe the measure and scale of identification marks, digital markings, “scratches” and “chips.” Otherwise, “metal” may appear where wood or fabric actually was, and identification marks can make even the most unnatural beautiful model. And, of course, a copy of a prototype aircraft cannot look like a machine that has been in dozens of air battles, just as an ace’s machine should not look like it has just left the assembly shop. That is why painstaking, but very interesting and useful work is required to study the history of aviation, search for photographs and color images of copied aircraft that will help supplement the model’s coloring with the necessary nuances.