Waterproofing floors under tiles: preparation of the base and application technology. Waterproofing bathroom floors and walls under tiles: device and materials; do-it-yourself coating waterproofing of a bathroom Coating waterproofing of a bathroom floor

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For many building materials, contact with moisture is a destructive factor, and with increasing temperature, the negative impact of moist air on surfaces in contact with it increases. Therefore, in rooms with high humidity, moisture-resistant coatings and equipment made from moisture-resistant materials are used. A classic example of solving this problem in the bathroom is covering the base with ceramic, glass, vinyl tiles and arranging the room with accessories made of ceramic, plastic and glass. And with this, it would seem, the issue is resolved. But, according to construction technologies, the enclosing structures of “wet” rooms must be additionally protected from moisture under a waterproof cladding. That is, we need complete waterproofing of the bathroom.

Let's take a closer look at why, to what extent, from what materials and how waterproofing of a bathroom under tiles is carried out.

Rationale for waterproofing bathrooms

Where moisture is present in the form of steam, it periodically condenses on the enclosing structures and interior, flowing down and being present in some quantity on the floor, even if a drain is installed. Thus, in addition to humidity, another negative factor is added to the operating conditions of the bathroom - direct contact of surfaces with water.

All types ceramic tiles are waterproof materials, while tiles of lower density are covered with glaze on top. But a ceramic shell is not one hundred percent protection of enclosing structures from water - the cladding is not monolithic over the entire area, as it has joints, and therefore the tile coating is only conditionally waterproof. The tile seams of the bathroom finishing are rubbed with waterproof compounds, but their density is lower than that of the glaze ceramics. In addition, ceramic cladding during operation is subject to deformations of various origins, as a result of which the grouting composition, and sometimes the tiles, crack, and water penetrates under the finish through damage and defects. This is especially true for flooring, since water does not linger for long on vertical surfaces.

In addition, the bathroom is equipped with a pipeline with shut-off valves, often - several plumbing fixtures, sewerage. Therefore, it is a room with an increased risk of leakage. And in apartment buildings In addition to the possibility of your plumbing failing, there is also the likelihood of flooding from the apartment’s bathroom above.

Since the bathroom in the vast majority of cases is not located separately from other rooms, but borders them, water that gets under the cladding will inevitably seep through the walls and damage the finish of adjacent rooms.

A wet wall with electrical wiring in it becomes dangerous for residents.

Thus, the answer to the question of whether waterproofing is needed in a bathroom under tiles is clear - it is necessary, and even under the shower stall. On the floor, this operation will protect the neighbors of the lower floor from your leaks, on the ceiling - you from your neighbor's leaks, on the walls - it will preserve the finish adjacent rooms and protect residents from electric shock.

Materials for waterproofing surfaces

To protect the surface from contact with water, many types of waterproofing materials are produced, which are divided into groups according to the method of arrangement.

To simplify the choice in relation to bathrooms, we will simplify the classification and divide the materials suitable for these rooms into liquid and roll.

Liquid waterproofing materials

This group includes solutions, pastes and mastics - products universal application, can be applied to horizontal and vertical surfaces. Pastes and mastics are coating materials, and solutions are penetrating agents.

Coating waterproofing

This group consists of one- or two-component elastic materials, with the help of which a protective waterproof shell with a thickness of several millimeters to 4-5 cm can be formed on the surface of the structure.

To produce coating waterproofing, polymers, cement, aluminas, modified bitumen, and bitumen-containing compounds are used, to which modifying additives are added to improve characteristics.

The main types of coating waterproofing materials:

Cement-polymer compositions are universal products that are a ready-made solution or a dry mixture that requires mixing with water, set within 5-10 minutes after application and have good adhesion.

Bitumen-polymer mastic mixtures are made on the basis of modified bitumen with the addition of plasticizers and polymer additives, and are characterized by a high degree of adhesion to concrete and density. Modern bitumen compositions are designed for use without preheating, which eliminates injuries that occur when working with classic bitumen, which requires melting.

Waterproof cements are two types of dry mixtures (VRC - expanding, VBC - non-shrinking), produced by simultaneously grinding gypsum and aluminous cement with a high content of calcium hydroaluminate in strict adherence to certain proportions.

Acrylic mastic is the most advanced and environmentally friendly type of waterproofing, produced on a water-based basis, odorless and superior in strength to previous compounds.

In relation to the bathroom, all of the coating materials listed above are used for internal waterproofing of floors and walls, and sealing cracks.

Penetrating waterproofing compounds

The principle of operation is that after being applied to the surface, such a solution is absorbed into the concrete and, after drying, fills its pores with crystals, which begin to grow towards the incoming water.

The effectiveness of using a penetrating solution will be ensured only when applied to the surface of the bathroom walls from the outside, so from the inside it is used only for waterproofing the ceiling.

Roll-on waterproofing agents

Such waterproofing consists of sheet materials of various thicknesses, which are laid in one or several layers on the insulated surface and is divided into hot and cold installation waterproofing.

Welded waterproofing

Moisture protection of this type is mounted on the base using the fusing method - heating one side of the canvas with a burner and laying it with uniform pressing. To securely attach the insulation, it is necessary to clean the surface from dust and prime it.

Example modern design Such an insulating material is the polymer-bitumen roll-on built-up hydraulic protection of the Bituline brand - a product developed in the USA, but produced in 20 countries around the world, including Russia.

The reinforcing basis of "Bitulin" is high quality polyester non-woven structure or fiberglass, onto which layers of bitumen modified with atactic polypropylene (APP) are hot applied on both sides. The thickness of the finished canvas, depending on the type, is 3.8-5.0 mm, weight - from 4.0 to 5.7 kg/m2.

No less effective waterproofing for hot laying is also the products of the TechnoNIKOL brand, installed using the same technology.

It is possible to carry out waterproofing using hot-installation materials without the use of heating, if the layers are laid on bitumen mastic.

The predecessor of these modern means moisture insulation is roofing felt, which, due to its affordable cost, has not yet lost its popularity.

Waterproofing materials for cold laying

Such insulation products include rolled canvases with a self-adhesive bottom surface or laid without gluing.

Self-adhesive waterproofing for strong adhesion to the base is mounted on a surface primed with a bitumen primer. Installation does not require professional skills or special equipment - the protective film is removed from the adhesive side, and the canvas is ready for installation.

“Floor waterproofing” (TechnoNIKOL) is a self-adhesive baseless protection 1.5 mm thick made of modified bitumen, protected on top by a polymer of a non-woven structure (Spunbond). Suitable for installation even under heated water floors.
“Technoelast Barrier” (“TechnoNIKOL”) is a self-adhesive baseless bitumen-polymer waterproofing with a top protective layer of polymer film.
“Rizolin Parking”, “Rizolin AS” are fiberglass-reinforced waterproofing materials of the bitumen-polymer group with two self-adhesive surfaces without foil.
Ceresit BT 85 R is a universal self-adhesive bitumen-polymer coating with a non-woven polyester base that has high tensile strength.

Cold-installed roll materials without an adhesive layer - the membranes are laid on the base without attaching the strips to the surface. Based on the material used, such canvases are divided into 3 subgroups:

Made of PVC - a two-layer film with a top layer of plasticized polyvinyl chloride, heat-resistant, highly elastic (laying possible at low temperatures), joining adjacent edges requires a special apparatus.
EPDM shells are a hydroprotector made from a type of synthetic rubber (ethylene propylene diene monomer) reinforced with a polyester mesh. The joints are joined using the vulcanization method.
TPO membranes are single-layer thermoplastic materials 1.2-2.4 mm thick based on polyolefin (a mixture of ethylene-propylene rubber and polypropylene), reinforced with polyester mesh. High quality The material makes it expensive and rarely used in everyday life.

Methods for waterproofing a bathroom with tiles

Based wide choice moisture protective equipment There are also many technologies for insulating bathroom enclosing structures. The choice of method depends on the following main factors:

Material of the insulated base.
Structural profile (smooth, with irregularities).
Surface orientation (vertical, horizontal, inclined).
Operating conditions (presence of vibration, temperature range, etc.).
Budget.

Since horizontal surfaces come into contact with water more often and longer than vertical ones, let’s start by considering floor waterproofing technologies.

Waterproofing of concrete floors under tiles using roll insulating materials

To decide which protective material will be used, it is necessary to proceed from the characteristics of the floor. If the floor is monolithic concrete slab ceilings with a smooth surface, then any type of waterproofing can be used. If there are joints of the slabs with each other and with the walls, then if there are doubts about the quality of their arrangement, the seams must be opened and sealed - preferably with one of the expanding cements.

Moisture protection with rolled materials with partial or complete laying of them on glue

If you choose the most budget method To perform this operation, you can use ordinary technical polyethylene with a thickness of approximately 0.5 mm, which is sold by the meter in building materials stores.

The floor surface is cleaned of dust and primed with a regular primer - you can aqueous solution latex proportion 1:4. After drying, the base is covered with one layer of bitumen mastic with careful coating of the joints of the slabs with each other and with the walls. A day later, polyethylene is spread over the dried mastic - in strips with an overlap of 10 cm over each other and onto the walls.

The overlaps, including those on the walls, are coated with silicone or the same mastic from the inside and along the top along the seams. The next layer of film can be laid immediately, but across the previous strips.

When the mastic on the seams has dried, a 5 cm thick cement-sand mortar screed is applied on top of the film, which will press the polymer shell to the concrete base.

This method is even applicable to waterproofing under tiles of a wooden floor in a bathroom - the result is a protective shell that is not associated with wood, which constantly changes size under the influence of the humidity of the environment below.

If one of the dimensions of the bathroom is more than three meters, then the screed is reinforced. The reinforcement should be placed closer to the polyethylene than to the surface, while being careful not to damage the waterproofing shell.

If instead of polyethylene you use ordinary roofing felt on a cardboard base, then its installation is carried out using the same technology, but in 3 layers. In this case, the cost of waterproofing will be slightly higher than when using polyethylene, but lower than when installing coating insulation.

More durable waterproofing of bathroom floors under tiles is made from bitumen-polymer roll materials, which are reinforced not with cardboard, but with fiberglass mesh or canvas, and the bitumen used for their manufacture is modified with polymer additives. In this case, roofing felt is simply replaced by other coatings - insulation, waterproofing, glass insulation, laid using the same technology, but with higher insulating characteristics.

Considering the small area of bathrooms, both weld-on and self-adhesive polymer-bitumen materials can be used to moisture-proof the floor. Products from the domestic manufacturer Technonikol have a good price/quality ratio.

Waterproofing the floor with fused rolled materials

This method of moisture protection consists of laying rolled materials on a flat concrete floor, one side of which is heated by a gas burner.

To use built-up materials, the floor surface, after cleaning from debris and dust, is primed with a bitumen primer - preferably water-based, since the absence of odor in such a primer makes it more suitable for interior work.

Primer enhances adhesion bitumen waterproofing to a base made of any material, so priming cannot be neglected, even if the floor surface seems clean. In addition, the surface to be primed for insulation must be dry.

After the primer has dried (3 hours or more), the rolled waterproofing is cut into pieces so that the longitudinal overlap of the elements on each other is 10 cm, and the transverse overlap, including on the walls, is 15 cm.

For fusing, use a conventional propane torch. The side to be heated and glued is indicated on the material being laid. It's best to do the job with two people, but it's even better to work alone in a cramped bathroom.

To guarantee the effectiveness of waterproofing, the number of layers should not be less than two, and the location should be across each other.

Moisture protection of a smooth concrete floor with self-adhesive materials

Unlike built-up shells, self-adhesive rolled waterproofing does not require heating during installation, which simplifies the task and saves time. Laying of such materials must be carried out at a room temperature not lower than +10 0 C.

Sequence of installation operations:

Clean the base from dust and prime it with a water-based bitumen primer. Attach the roll to the beginning of installation - the corner, unfold and measure the required length.

Make a cut along the protective film and break the canvas. Remove the protective film from the canvas and glue the material along its entire length, consistently pressing it to the base.

The size of the longitudinal overlaps should be 8-10 cm, transverse - 15 cm. The overlaps from the inside are coated over the entire contact area with bitumen mastic.

The film is applied to the surface of the walls to the level of the future finishing floor.

A 5 cm thick cement-sand mortar screed with reinforcement is placed on top of the self-adhesive waterproofing, after which you can begin laying the tiles.

Waterproofing floor slabs by laying membranes

Polymer membranes are lightweight high-tech materials with increased resistance to mechanical and temperature influences, microorganisms and ultraviolet radiation. But the high characteristics of these coatings also make them expensive.

In addition, two types of membranes (PVC and TPO) out of three produced require the use of hot air welding using special equipment to connect the joints.

The listed factors limit the use of polymer membranes in everyday life, as a result of which they occupy only 1.5% of the market for moisture-proof materials, and the main area of application of these materials is large objects for various purposes.

But if it is possible to use an EPDM membrane (made of synthetic rubber), coating it is not difficult. The rolled material is laid on a flat floor and strips are cut required size, the connection of which to each other is carried out with self-adhesive edges.

Waterproofing of concrete floors under tiles using a coating method

If the surface of the floor slab of a bathroom or shower has become lumpy after dismantling the old floor finishing, then you cannot place rolled material on such a base - the weight of the screed will tear the insulating shell. To avoid leveling, floor waterproofing can be done using a coating method, which will save effort and time, since liquid moisture-protecting compounds are applied using a brush, roller or spatula and do not require special skills:

The base is cleaned of debris, dust and primed with a composition recommended by the insulating agent manufacturer.
The coating material, depending on the type, is prepared according to the instructions for use and applied to the base with a layer of the required thickness.
The next layer of coating protection is applied only after the previous coating has completely dried.
The number of layers applied is determined by the manufacturer's recommendations.

Moisture insulation of bathroom walls under tiles

Facing vertical surfaces with tiles requires a sufficient degree of adhesion of the ceramics to the base. That is, the waterproofing of bathroom walls under tiles should be made of a material designed for laying ceramics using the most common adhesives - cement-based. If the moisture protection is made from a material based on bitumen, rolled or coated, then on top of such a shell you will have to build an additional load-bearing base, attached to the wall mechanically.

The most common material for bathroom walls is stone, so the optimal solution to the problem would be to use insulating compounds based on expanding cements.

Such coating waterproofing for a bathroom under tiles will not only ensure sealing of the base surface, but will also level it to the required degree.

To install moisture protection, it is necessary to apply a layer of mortar made from expanding cement to the primed walls. The thickness of the layer depends on the evenness of the base and can vary from a few millimeters to 2-3 centimeters, that is, leveling can be done either with a spatula or a trowel, plastering followed by grouting. The masonry seams and cavities are pre-embroidered and carefully filled with mortar fillings.

The material is several times more expensive than ordinary cement, therefore, in order to reduce its consumption, if the surface is significantly uneven, it is better to perform preliminary leveling with a regular cement-sand mixture.

When plastering walls with expanding cement, you should prepare the solution in small portions, taking into account its rapid setting.

The walls are ready to be covered with ceramics after the cement waterproofing layer has cured and completely dried.

Waterproofing walls over drywall

It can be easier to level the walls in the bathroom before installing a coating moisture barrier if, instead of plastering, you install a moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets, for example, produced by Knauf.

It should be borne in mind that moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboard is not designed for prolonged contact with water, so it must be additionally protected. Before installation on the wall, all gypsum panels are covered from the inside with a layer of bitumen-polymer waterproofing. After laying the sheets, a fiberglass reinforcing mesh is glued onto them, on top of which two layers of waterproofing made of expanding cement are applied with a spatula at intervals of 24 hours. After the insulating composition has cured, tiles can be laid on the walls.

It is necessary to waterproof the enclosing structures of bathrooms under tiles, and it is not necessary to chase advanced technologies - there are many ways to do it yourself and at minimal cost, using well-known materials.

There is no doubt that tiles are the most popular bathroom floor covering today. It is good for everyone - it is beautiful, durable, does not absorb moisture, and is wear-resistant. The list of advantages can, of course, be continued, but it’s better to focus on its problem area - the seams through which moisture can seep down into the floor.

It also cannot be ruled out that even a small flood could jeopardize good relations with neighbors living on the floor below. So, obviously, waterproofing the floor under the tiles is a must-do activity.

Preparing the surface for waterproofing a tile floor

The base for applying waterproofing under the tiles must be cleaned of any contamination. At this stage, the remaining old paint is also removed, chemicals, oil stains. For this purpose, detergents and mild degreasers are used.

It is prohibited to use aggressive chemical cleaning methods when preparing the base.

It is necessary to achieve the greatest possible smoothness of the surface of the base. Existing unevenness and damage can be eliminated by using mechanical methods, for example, grinding or milling the base. You can also use a stiff metal brush to clean the surface.

Upon completion preparatory work the surface is again cleaned of dirt and dust.

Thus, the resulting surface must be absolutely clean, smooth, chemically neutral and completely dried.

Subsequently, a primer is applied to the cleaned floor - priming is necessary to improve adhesion to waterproofing materials. Typically, special quick-drying bitumen primers or moisture-proofing paint are used for priming. Mix the material well before application. Having received a homogeneous mass, it is applied to the base in a thin layer. When choosing and calculating the consumption of primer material, you should take into account the density of the base, since, say, coatings with a lower density absorb it more. The base can be considered ready for waterproofing when the primer dries.

Laying waterproofing on the floor under tiles: application technologies

According to SNiP 3.04.01-87, floor waterproofing is carried out for rooms where the intensity of exposure to water is medium and high. In apartments, such rooms primarily include bathrooms. Just the ones where flooring tiles protrude more often.

Waterproofing with roll materials

Waterproofing using self-adhesive materials extremely simple and, in principle, not much different from laying ordinary linoleum.

First you need to mark the insulation on the floor of the room.
Next, having cut a piece of material of the required size, remove the protective film from its underside and apply it to the base.
For better adhesion to the base surface, a heavy roller is “passed” over the laid material.
Subsequent waterproofing sheets are laid with an overlap, taking 4–5 cm from each of the previous strips.
The places where the walls meet are the most dangerous, so much more is “entered” onto the walls - about 15-20 cm.

When using welded roll materials installation technology in general outline similar, although there are certain subtleties.

In this case, the roll is unwound directly during installation. Adhesion of waterproofing to the surface of the base, its reliable fastening provide by heating a layer of bitumen using a gas burner. At the end of the work waterproofing layer filled with concrete screed.

Waterproofing using coating technology

Liquid materials used to protect floors from moisture are more versatile and completely undemanding to the quality of the insulated surfaces.

General scheme for applying coating waterproofing

The coating mixture is applied to the floor using a roller, spatula or brush. For large surfaces, special spraying equipment can be used.
When using cement-polymer mastic, you can bring the floor level to the required height and ensure the evenness of the base. In this case, the condition for further filling of the screed disappears. If bitumen mastic is used, its layer is thin and the need for screed remains.
The coating material should be applied very carefully, without leaving gaps on the insulated surface. Joints require increased attention.

The most common option for waterproofing surfaces under tiles is the application of special one-component mastics. They have many advantages, in particular, they:

seamless;
they are applied in a continuous layer, therefore they are free from such “weak” places as joints;
easy and simple to apply using a roller or brush;
resistant to microorganisms, such as fungal mold;
The mastic layer is vapor permeable, that is, it allows the room to “breathe.”

To provide optimal waterproofing It is recommended to apply mastic in two or three layers.

It is worth considering that the time for complete drying of the mastic layer depends on the temperature and humidity conditions of a particular room. Therefore, before applying the next layer, check the degree of drying of the previous one. It’s easier to check “touch” - the mastic should not stick to your fingers.

The top layer of the mastic, which has not yet had time to completely harden, is sprinkled with fine dry quartz sand (0.3-0.8 mm). Such an operation is necessary to give the surface a roughness, which will subsequently provide the best adhesion to adhesives.

When the mastic hardens, that is, the process of its polymerization is completed, excess sand from the surface must be removed with a brush. Laying of tiles begins no earlier than a day, and for some types of material – up to two.

Waterproofing your bathroom is an essential part of responsible and quality repairs. Protecting the room from moisture is of particular importance in cases where you plan to cover it with ceramic tiles.

In the reception room we are interested in water procedures constantly present increased level humidity. This phenomenon during bathroom operation can lead to the following undesirable processes:

peeling of materials and products used for finishing;
mold formation;
general dampness and the appearance of an unpleasant rotten odor;
early destruction facing materials, as well as walls and floors (floor slabs) in the room.

Waterproofing in the bathroom

The purpose of the room in question requires the installation of a large amount of internal networks and installation of various plumbing equipment. The areas where they are located are high-risk areas. At any time at the junction of sewer and water pipes, connecting siphons and other devices, a leak may occur. Often it is not possible to notice it right away. Water will accumulate for some time in hard-to-reach places (for example, under the toilet or bathtub). In such situations, properly installed waterproofing of walls and floors will do its job. functional purpose excellently. It will prevent water from seeping through the floor slabs to the lower floors.

Essentially, waterproofing material will create a durable and reliable barrier for your bathroom. Waterproofing under tiles is mandatory over the entire floor area. At the same time, experts recommend laying moisture-proof materials so that their edges extend 20–30 centimeters onto the surface of the walls. There is an opinion that modern flooring can be laid without carrying out waterproofing work. They say that the tile is initially waterproof. So why spend extra money? Believe me, this opinion is wrong. In invisible small cracks in tiles, seams between them and microscopic chips on the surface finishing material moisture constantly penetrates. It accumulates and causes the formation of mold and mildew, and after a certain period of time, the destruction of the tiles.

Moisture protection of the bathroom floor under the tiles allows you to avoid such problems. Waterproofing of walls is not carried out over their entire area. There is no real need for this. In this case, the moisture barrier should be installed in areas adjacent to the plumbing equipment, shower stall, washbasin and bathtub. The protective material is installed in such a way that it covers the walls 0.5 m in all directions from the specified sanitary fixtures. In addition, take the time to lay a water barrier inside the plumbing cabinet where the sewer and water risers. They are the main culprits of leaks.

If you decide to use ceramic tiles for tiling your bathroom, you need to figure out what kind of waterproofing is suitable for this purpose. A moisture barrier in such situations is created using two types of materials:

Coatings (acrylic, cement, latex and bitumen-polymer mastics, bitumen-rubber compositions).
Rolled (covered), which are produced on a fiberglass or polymer base.

Waterproofing using coating compounds

Bitumen-polymer compositions are in most cases sold in construction stores in ready-to-use form. Such mastics are ideal for creating a reliable moisture barrier under tiles. They are odorless, non-toxic, characterized by excellent recovery and elongation properties, as well as high resistance to the influence of various aggressive environments and temperature changes. Mastics, which contain polymer particles and a binding bitumen substance, are used exclusively for waterproofing bathroom floors. Moreover, after laying such compositions, they must be filled with a thin and carefully leveled concrete screed.

Home craftsmen love to work with coated latex-bitumen insulation (often called liquid rubber). It is intended for treating the walls and floors of the bathroom for bathing. Liquid rubber easily applied to floor surface, which is pre-cleaned and primed. In one pass, you can apply a 3–4 mm layer of latex-bitumen mastic, using for these purposes paint roller or a regular spatula. It is also necessary to make a thin screed over the layer of insulation based on bitumen and latex. And only after it has completely set, start installing the tiles.

Note that in cases where latex compounds are used to waterproof walls, no screed is made. In such situations, the coating waterproofing is sewn on top with moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets. The tiles are subsequently mounted directly onto the drywall. Cement-polymer coating compositions are easy to use. They are made from cement. They are suitable for protecting walls and floors. Such mixtures are also good for blocking leaks on concrete surfaces and for prompt self-repair of the latter. Cement-polymer compositions are applied with a spatula (theoretically, a brush can also be used, but then the work becomes more labor-intensive).

Rolled waterproofing for the bathroom is laid on a well-cleaned surface, which is pre-leveled (2 linear meters unevenness of the treated area is allowed no more than 2 mm). On one side, laminated moisture barriers have a special component that enhances adhesion to the tile adhesive, and on the other, a layer of a special substance. It guarantees high-quality and very strong adhesion of the roll insulation to the base. The advantages of such protectors for walls and floors are reliability of fastening, affordable cost, simplicity self-installation, the absence of long technological breaks during installation, the possibility of lining the waterproofing layer immediately after its installation.

Let us note one more feature of rolled materials. With their help, you can protect floors made of wood from moisture. The high elasticity of such waterproofing provides a monolithic moisture barrier that does not change its geometry when wooden floors dry out and move.

Waterproofing a bathroom will only be of high quality if it is properly prepared for the planned event. You will need to remove the old screed from the floor. This procedure is not easy. You cannot overcome 4–5 centimeters of concrete with your bare hands. You will have to use a hammer drill and an angle grinder. After disassembling the screed, you need to completely clean the treated surfaces from cement dust and debris, and then carefully analyze the condition concrete base. All visible irregularities, chips and gaps must be rubbed and smoothed.

Removing old screed from the floor

The next step is to apply a special composition with fungicidal (antifungal) properties to the cleaned surfaces. You can use any suitable product. After this, be sure to prime the base on which the waterproofing will be laid, and then the tiles. If necessary, this operation is performed several times. The surface of the walls is prepared in a similar way. Remove all excess from the surface ( old plaster, paint), level it, prime it. Note that there is no need to treat the entire wall. It is enough to qualitatively prepare that part of it that rises above the level floor base by 10–15 centimeters.

pay attention to next nuance. Waterproofing under the tiles can be done both after pouring the screed and before pouring. Experts do not have a consensus on this issue. In practice, a leveling layer on top of a hydrobarrier is most often performed when using latex, acrylic and bitumen coating compounds. But roll waterproofing and cement-polymer mastics in most cases are laid on what has already been made.

If you decide to use roll materials to protect your bathroom from moisture, follow this work algorithm:

Measure out the required amount of insulation to protect the floor. Do not forget that you need to add to the “net” dimensions the amount of overlap on the walls and between the individual strips of the rolled product.
After cutting, fuse the waterproofing with a blowtorch or glue it to the floor base. The strips must be pressed down with a special roller. Then the material will lie tightly and create a monolithic structure with the floor.
Seal the areas where the strips connect to utilities and the joints individual parts isolation.

Self-waterproofing under tiles

The last step is laying the screed (if you did not do it before starting work). It is even easier to work with coating waterproofing. You need to apply the selected composition twice to the floor surface with a spatula or brush. For the first time, the composition should be laid parallel to one of the walls (choose any) of the room. And the second layer is applied perpendicular to the first. This method of creating a hydrobarrier is called cross. It is considered optimal. Its service life is estimated at 25–30 years. Please note that the tiles are mounted on a layer of coating insulation only after the protective composition has completely hardened.

Another subtlety - the mastic must be applied especially carefully at the junction of the walls and the floor base. And don't forget to overlap the wall surface. It is best to protect bathroom walls from moisture with cement-polymer mastics. Bitumen compounds in this case do not guarantee durability protective coating. The reason is that bitumen is fluid in nature. Over time, it can peel off from the walls. When treating walls with waterproofing, special cuffs must be put on sewer and water pipes, and the corners must be sealed with a special sealing tape. It is advisable to embed a reinforcing mesh into the created cement-polymer composition. It will make the coating much stronger and more durable. It is also recommended to coat Concrete contact(or a similar composition) insulation layer. But only after the hydrobarrier is completely dry.

Proper protection of the walls and floor of the room for water procedures, as you can see, can be done independently. The main thing is to choose the right one waterproofing material and use it wisely, keeping in mind the tips listed above. In this case, during the operation of ceramic tiles glued to the hydrobarrier, you will not experience the slightest problem.

The atmosphere of the bathroom is characterized by high humidity. In addition, there is a high risk of flooding neighbors in the event of an accident in the water supply lines or failure of water folding mechanisms.

Therefore, the issue of bathroom waterproofing is extremely relevant. It is necessary to protect the material of the interfloor ceiling from moisture and the unpleasant consequences that it causes.

These are negative consequences such as:

general dampness in the bathroom;
the formation of mold and mildew, which spoil the appearance of the bathroom and are extremely harmful to people;
the appearance of an unpleasant odor;
peeling of the finishing of walls and floors;
destruction of floor structures.

Materials for waterproofing floors intended for tiles

All materials used for floor waterproofing are divided into the following types:

rolled adhesive insulation;
coating insulation – pastes, mastics, liquids;
penetrating insulation for impregnation of the concrete base;
hydrobarriers on a polymer or rubber basis;
dry cement insulating mixtures intended for self-dilution with water.

For the most part, to prepare the bathroom floor, the first two types of waterproofing are used - pasting and coating.

A standard bathroom with low humidity levels and finishing coating It is better to insulate small tiles using rolled materials. For this, you can use well-known roofing felt and roofing felt, but it is better to give preference to modern materials based on fiberglass and polyester - such as isoelast, ecoflex, mostoplast, isoplast.

This method requires careful preparation of the concrete base:

it should not have differences of more than 2 mm;
the concrete must be completely dry.

The base requires preliminary application of a primer, which is a bitumen emulsion. And the process of gluing roll insulation requires great care. This method is good because the floor level will practically not change, since the thickness of the adhesive layer is about 1 mm. Floor tiling can be done within 24 hours after installing the waterproofing.

It can be purchased at finished form, and in the form of a dry powder, which you will have to prepare yourself. Such insulation must be applied in at least 2 layers with an interval of at least 6 hours. The second and subsequent layers of insulation are applied perpendicular to the previous one. This allows you to fill even the smallest cracks and gaps with the composition. After applying the last layer, you must take a break for at least 24 hours and only after that you can finish the floor with tiles.

It must be taken into account that the floor level of the bathroom should be 50 mm below the floor level of the adjacent rooms.

This is done so that in the event of a leak, water does not immediately flow into neighboring rooms where the floors do not have waterproofing.

The initial stage of any work in the bathroom is to create a waterproof “trough”. To do this, even before installing waterproofing, it is necessary to seal the joints between the floor and the walls of the room. In old panel houses they can even be cross-cutting. For this purpose, you can use mastics or high-quality sealant.

To complete the work you will need the following tools:

vacuum cleaner;
metal brushes or grinder;
notched spatula;
construction knife - for cutting rolled material;
gas-burner;
foam roller or paint brush.

Preliminary preparation of the base:

Use a vacuum cleaner to thoroughly remove dust;
if there are oil stains and paint residues on the floor, they also need to be removed using non-aggressive chemicals;
the floor surface must be sanded - this will level the surface and make it smooth;
then the surface needs to be dried and vacuumed again;
all cracks and irregularities more than 5 mm deep must be filled with cement mortar;
The floor surface is wiped with a damp cloth and dried;
dry surface is treated with primer deep penetration– it is better to use a brand suitable for use in wet areas.

A layer of primer will finally fill all minor irregularities and improve the adhesion of the base.

This type of insulation can be built-up and self-adhesive.

The material being welded requires heating of the adhesive layer using a torch.

At the same time, the bituminous material emits a rather strong odor, which requires the installation of an additional layer of screed on top of the insulation. In this case, the floor level may become higher by 2-3 cm, which is undesirable.

Therefore, it is better to use self-adhesive roll insulation:

The roll is rolled out on the floor and a piece of the required length is cut from it. It should be 30-40 cm longer than the floor section. This is necessary so that the excess length can be placed on the walls.
You need to remove the protective film from the underside of the cut piece and carefully lay it on a marked area of the floor, overlapping the walls.
To better adhere the material to the base, roll it on top with a heavy cloth roller.
The next pieces of insulation are laid in the same way, observing an overlap of adjacent pieces of at least 10 cm.
The seams and joints of adjacent strips must be coated with mastic.
After it has hardened, the surface must be primed again.

This method has its pros and cons that you need to know.

The advantages of roll insulation are:

low cost of materials;
high heat resistance of the insulating layer;
easy installation.

Among the disadvantages are the following:

unpleasant odor of bituminous materials;
complexity in the process of making joints;
impossibility of use in underfloor heating systems.

Coating floor insulation technology

Most often the following materials are used for these purposes:

Bitumen-rubber mastic based on oxidized bitumen, organic solvent And crumb rubber. It has good adhesion to concrete, but its properties are manifested mainly on fiber-reinforced concrete.
Bitumen-polymer mastic - contains plasticizers and latex filler. Very popular among professional repairmen because it has excellent adhesion to concrete and is very durable.
Acrylic water-based waterproofing composition - materials of the latest generation. Very plastic, durable, environmentally friendly and odorless. Therefore, their use is now becoming increasingly widespread.

The process itself is simple, but requires great care:

Using a paint brush or roller, apply the composition to the floor and walls to a height of 20 cm.
After installing each layer, you must wait approximately 24 hours before applying the next one. Usually three layers are enough.
After the second layer, it is better to lay a reinforcing fiberglass mesh on the surface, which is then covered with the last layer of insulation.
If there are places where pipes exit the floor in the room, then it is necessary to use special cuffs, which are also coated with mastic.
While the mastic has not dried, it can be sprinkled with fine dry sand. This will improve its adhesion to the tile adhesive.

This method is very good for rooms with complex geometry, where marking and gluing roll materials can present some difficulties.

simple installation;
relatively low cost of material;
good adhesion to the concrete base;
resistance to chemicals;
the formation of an almost monolithic waterproof layer.

The disadvantages include:

toxicity of materials, requiring the use of protective equipment when working with them;
low frost resistance;
not too high strength under mechanical stress.

Each of these methods of waterproofing a bathroom floor can be done independently. To obtain the proper result, you must carefully study the instructions for using the material and strictly follow the recommended work technology.

Laying the coating in a bathroom or toilet must provide protection from moisture. In this case, waterproofing of the floor under the tiles is done different ways, using both very inexpensive and effective roll materials, and using mastics, as well as special one-component compositions. Each of the methods used differs both in the level of financial investment and in the general requirements for the qualifications of the performer.

Waterproofing for laying tiles in the bathroom is done very carefully. It is not only the relatively large amount of moisture that is often present on the floor that plays a role here. The task is to provide protection from steam and condensate.

This is important for a number of reasons:

it is necessary to ensure that there are no leaks to the lower floor or basement;
it is necessary to protect interfloor ceilings from the destructive effects of moisture;
steam, penetrating concrete and other structural materials, has a negative effect, causing rotting, corrosion, destruction and a decrease in the overall temperature and strength characteristics of walls.

When carrying out waterproofing work under tiles, you need to pay attention to every little detail. To ensure the durability of the coating, it is necessary to level the floor and walls as carefully as possible. Then the loads on the tile will be distributed evenly, there will be no danger of splitting due to pressure, lag of individual elements, or cracks due to temperature deformations.

Leveling the floor surface is mandatory; in the case of a relatively smooth surface, cracks and depressions are sealed with putty. If there are strong unevennesses, it is recommended to remove the old one and make a new thin concrete screed reinforced with plastic mesh.

Application of roll materials

The tiles can be laid on a waterproofing base created using rolled materials. This type of insulator is only suitable for protecting the floor.

In this case, they distinguish:

laid covering;
weldable materials;
waterproofing on a self-adhesive basis.

It is easiest to lay floor-type roll insulators on a prepared, flat, debris-free floor surface treated with anti-mold primers. This can be roofing felt, one-way penetration membranes (which also have vapor protection), thick polymer films.

The nature of the work may vary depending on the material

If polymer films, membranes, non-woven material— the strips are placed along the length of the covered area, with an overlap of 5-10 cm. The joining lines are taped.

Working with roofing felt and other materials containing bitumen or viscous polymer compositions can be done in two ways. The first is the use of mastics. The overlap area of the strips is thoroughly coated, and the seam is rolled with a roller. The second is temperature exposure. You can use a hair dryer or a special soldering iron. The taping method also shows acceptable results.

The use of floating coatings involves intense temperature exposure. The main tool in this case is a gas burner. Since ventilation may be a problem in a limited bathroom space, you can use heat guns or hair dryers high power. Special attention When fusing the coating onto the base, pay attention to the overlap zone. It needs to be thoroughly warmed, pressed, smoothed.

When working with floating materials, respiratory protection measures should be taken if open flames are used. It is also necessary to take into account all fire safety rules and not work with fire if the characteristics of the building do not allow such actions.

A separate segment of waterproofing products are roll materials containing bitumen, which have a ready-made adhesive base. They are easy to apply; they peel off gradually protective film straight from the roll during deployment. All work can be carried out by one person.

The use of rolled waterproofing materials in preparation for laying tiles must be carried out by following a few simple rules:

the perimeter is thoroughly coated with bitumen or mastics;
the film or other type of coating is laid so that the material “fits” 10-15 cm onto the wall;
for waterproofing the perimeter, a special coating can be used adhesive tape, excellent performance is shown by brands that are heated with a hair dryer.

To work with roll materials no special tools needed (except gas burners, if you choose floating type waterproofing). You will need a knife, tape measure, chalk or a simple pencil, as well as a brush to remove debris and a smoothing roller.

Working with roll waterproofing materials is simple and requires low financial investment. Both classic roofing felt, roofing felt, and materials based on fiberglass and polyester can be used. A thin concrete screed with reinforcement is made on top of the formed protective layer.

Technology of working with coating materials

Excellent protection indicators are observed if coating waterproofing is used. This technology has several advantages:

you can protect not only the floor, but also the walls and ceiling;
there is no need to carefully level the floor surface;
after hardening, the liquid composition forms a perfectly smooth surface, perfect for laying tiles;
modern compositions can also work as a floor leveling agent.

Coating waterproofing can be carried out bitumen mastics or special polymer compounds. You don’t need a complex, unusual tool for the job. You will have to work with a spatula, brushes, or a rubbing roller.

If the floor surface is large, spraying installations can be used, but such work requires the use of expensive equipment and acrylic water-based compositions, characterized by high cost.

You need to work with coating compounds carefully, without missing a single spot on the surface. In the case of liquid polymer-based compositions, they are poured and distributed over the floor surface. At the same time, waterproofing with bitumen mastics does not eliminate the need to make a concrete screed, on the surface of which the tiles will then be laid.

Additional information: Optimal in terms of price, quality of coating, ease of work - a composition based on cement and polymer mastic looks like. It is fluid enough to be easy to smooth out. Forms a perfectly smooth surface. It has an attractive price for the consumer. The level of strength is such that there is no need to lay a screed - with the help of a cement-polymer composition, you can bring the floor height to the desired level.

Application of one-component mastics

Waterproofing material such as one-component mastics belongs to the latest generation of products for treating floors and walls for laying tiles. They have the property of adhesion of layers, so they do not form seams, ensuring the creation of a monolithic and durable coating. Coating waterproofing using one-component mastics has a number of advantages:

there are no seams, neither horizontally within one layer, nor vertically, within the thickness of the entire coating;
there are no weak spots in the coating, it is as tight as possible;
applying the composition is not difficult; you can work with a brush and roller;
By making waterproofing with one-component mastics, it is easy to guarantee protection against mold, fungal growth, and microorganisms.

It is always worth remembering one basic property of one-component formulations. After drying, the waterproofing does not protect against steam penetration. In some cases this is useful - the room “breathes”. But in most cases, this property of the mastic acts as a disadvantage, so a one-component composition is often used in combination with simple film means of moisture protection.

Waterproofing with one-component mastic is done in compliance with a number of rules:

Each applied layer must dry. The time depends on the specific indicators of humidity and temperature, so before applying a new portion of the composition, check the stickiness of the drying material - the composition should not remain on the fingers.
If you want to create a thick layer and thus raise the overall floor level, the best results are achieved by using fine quartz sand. Each layer of mastic is sprinkled before final drying in order to achieve maximum adhesion to the next one.
Sand should be removed from the top layer of mastic. A fine brush is suitable for this.

After the waterproofing with one-component mastic is ready, it is necessary to allow time for final polymerization. The fact that the top layer does not stick to your fingers is not a sufficient indicator. Before proceeding with the installation of the tile covering, you need to wait from 1 to three days. It is best to find out the amount of time from the recommendations given by the manufacturer of one-component mastic.

As a conclusion

Waterproofing the floor for laying tiles has a clearly defined procedure for carrying out the work. If the stage of laying the protective surface depends on the specific material chosen, then the general course of preparatory operations is required.

The surface is leveled and cleaned of dust using shields and a vacuum cleaner. If there are cracks or areas of deteriorating coating, they are removed. Putties are used to fill cavities.

If there are large differences in height and holes on the floor, you should remove the old one and make a new thin reinforced concrete screed. By carrying out all work carefully and carefully, you can guarantee that both waterproofing and tile covering floors will work efficiently and last a very long time without causing trouble.