The drainage pump makes noise but does not lift water. The drainage pump hums, but does not pump water - causes and troubleshooting

I have a pulverizer pump for my toilet. It no longer works automatically, only a forced reset. What to do? Should it be replaced or can it be repaired?

We would like to immediately reassure you that since the pump starts in manual mode, then in general it is in good working order and its replacement is not necessary. You just need to figure out what reasons lead to the incorrect operation of the equipment and, if possible, eliminate them. What factors can lead to the fact that the sanitary pump with a grinder turns on in forced mode, but does not work in automatic mode? There may be several of them:

the tightness of the pump connection to the plumbing fixture and/or to the sewer pipe is broken;
the grinding system of the pump is clogged;
the pressure sensor and/or pressure switch is faulty;
the operating conditions of the pump are not met.

Operating principle of a sewage pump with a grinder

When flushing the toilet, the liquid level in the body of the grinding unit increases. The sensor detects an increase in air pressure and transmits a signal to a pressure switch, which starts the pump motor. The chopper knives are immediately activated, which process the solid fractions found in the wastewater. Next, the liquid from the storage tank under pressure enters the outlet pipe and goes to the sewer riser. After the pump has pumped out all the wastewater from the tank, the sensor registers a decrease in the pressure level, and the relay automatically turns off the installation engine.

Wastewater accumulates in tank A. Membrane chamber B measures the air pressure in the pump storage tank and, using line C, transmits data to sensor D, the pressure switch starts the pump motor E. The engine drives the grinding system F, and the wastewater leaves through outlet G.

Violation of the tightness of the pumping unit

First of all, eliminate the possibility of the storage tank leaking - inspect all the interfaces between the pump and the toilet and waste pipes. Over time, the integrity of the rubber pipes and couplings may be compromised, resulting in water leakage from the system. This affects the correctness of the pressure readings taken by the sensor.

The pump is equipped with several pipes for connection to plumbing fixtures and a drain pipe

Another “thin spot” of the sewage pump is the check valve located in the outlet pipe of the installation. This part prevents the pumped substance from returning inside the pump’s storage tank. A clogged valve can lead to unstable pump operation. The valve must be checked and cleaned, and if faulty, replaced.

Pump unit clogged

Pump jamming can cause clogging of the filter, which is located in the storage tank of the sanitary installation. We recommend cleaning the pump filter according to the following scheme:

Disconnect the pumping unit from the power supply.
Unscrew the screws on the top cover of the pump and remove it.
Take out the mesh filter and clean it.
Pressure wash the chopper blades without touching them.
Replace the filter, close the lid and secure it.

When wastewater passes through the pump grinding system, the filter and shaft blades may become clogged

Also perform preventive cleaning of the sewage pump system as follows:

Disconnect the unit from the power supply.
Pour detergent into the toilet bowl and drain the water.
Wait about 5 minutes.
Plug in the sewer pump and flush the toilet.
After the pump has finished running, drain the water again.

Malfunctions of pump components

One of the reasons for the failure of the pump automation may be a malfunction of the pressure sensor or damage to the line leading to the pressure switch. Often the pressure switch itself wears out, causing the pump to operate intermittently. The serviceability of these pump components can only be determined by a specialist, so it is better to diagnose, repair or replace them with the assistance of authorized service providers. Moreover, if the warranty period for servicing the pump has not expired, feel free to contact the company whose phone number is indicated on the warranty card.

Failure to comply with pump operation requirements

Temperature regime of wastewater. As a rule, the instructions for a sanitary pump with a grinder always indicate the required temperature range of the pumped liquid. If you did not follow the manufacturer's recommendations and the pump was used to transport wastewater at unacceptable temperatures, it may not work properly.

Characteristics of the power supply system. Due to the fact that the domestic centralized power grid is characterized by voltage drops, the automation of your sewer pump may fail. For trouble-free operation of household electrical appliances, including household pumps, it is recommended to purchase a voltage stabilizer.

Conclusion

If the electrical parameters are in order, the operating conditions have not been violated, you have not found a leak and cleaned the filter, and the pump continues to operate only in manual mode, you need to contact the service department.

Reliable sewerage in a private house ensures maximum comfort for all residents. However, in some cases it can fail, becoming clogged with large particles or failing to process storm drains. In this case, drainage pumps are used, and therefore they must be maintained in good condition and ready.

Drainage self-priming equipment

Intensive operation of hydraulic devices can cause them to break. Users have to quickly repair clogged channels in devices, replace a burnt-out motor, or repair a water level float switch with their own hands. It is not always possible to do these operations correctly in a short time, so you need to worry about quality repairs in advance.

Design features of drainage pumps

A drainage water pump for pumping water uses its main element - an impeller - to build up pressure in the system. In addition to this, the design contains the following elements:

pump unit;
electric motor operating from a 220 V household network;
suction unit with filter element;
float circuit breaker.

Design

Since operating conditions imply the presence of liquid in contact with the housing, the outer part consists of tightly fitted parts of a composite housing. This ensures high-quality sealing, and the material for the housing is:

stainless steel with sufficient chromium alloying content;
moisture-resistant plastic.

During operation, it is necessary to protect the housing from mechanical damage so as not to depressurize the installation.

It is necessary to follow the manufacturer's operating recommendations so that the float pump for pumping out water works with liquid that contains contaminant particles of an acceptable fraction. The threshold geometric value is indicated in the device passport. Typically the permitted interval is 3-50 mm in diameter.

Industrial units can also work with larger fractions. Improper operation of the pumps can lead to the electric motor humming, but not starting to return, or to other types of breakdowns.

Troubleshooting

In most cases, you can figure it out on your own. To do this you will need a set of wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers, a multimeter and possibly a soldering iron. In some cases, you will have to use the repair kit provided by the manufacturer.

VIDEO: Drainage pump. disassembly and repair

Mechanical breakdowns

In cases where the electric motor hums but does not rotate, the cause most often lies in a mechanical fault.

It is worth checking the integrity of all blades. A broken piece can block the rotation of the head shaft located in the housing.
Blocking of rotation, which causes a characteristic hum, is caused by a damaged bearing assembly on the shaft. Under the influence of wear, it worsens the alignment and leads to the shaft stopping.

To check for these reasons you need to:

turn off the power supply;
remove the pump from the water and place it on a level surface;
try to rotate the working impeller by hand, visually checking its integrity.

If there is difficulty, the unit must be replaced or repaired, because if the electric motor does not start pumping, but hums, then the problem is often not with the electrician, but with blocking the rotation.

Reduced water level

Drainage equipment in most models has a submersible design. Due to this, it is possible to effectively pump out liquid. Operation without liquid inside the working cavities of such pumps leads to rapid failure of the units. An important factor in protecting against operation without water is a special device - a float switch.

This is what a pump looks like when it has been running for a long time and is not completely immersed in liquid.

The part is capable of blocking the operation of the entire pump in a timely manner if the liquid level drops below a critical level for the device. The role of a kind of gyroscope is performed by a metal ball that changes its position depending on the location of the unit in the water. It acts on the lever, closing/opening electrical contacts.

Air valve malfunctions

Some drainage models have a special bleed valve. The accumulated air bubbles are passed through it. Many pollutants are dissolved in the problematic liquid media that the pump pumps. They are able to envelop the surface of the ball from the valve and due to this it can fill in its seat.

If the system does not provide constant air venting, then your Karcher will hum, but will not pump water. You can restore functionality after pumping a certain volume of clean water. The system will flush itself, and the liquid will remove contaminants from the ball.

Electric motor failure

The pump can become silent during operation and not respond to the supply of electricity. In many cases, this is due not so much to problems with the cable, which can fray or bend, but rather to an interturn short circuit:

In such a situation, the characteristic smell of burnt wire insulation will be heard from the electric motor.
The second sign will be significant overheating of the unit, which can be heard by touching the switched off device with your hand.

The reason for such malfunctions is the lack of idle protection. Significant overheating of the motor leads to heating of the turns, and they, melting the insulation, form an electrical short circuit between the turns.

Cleaning the pump

Operation can only be restored by replacing the block or rewinding the wire in the damaged area. The second option may be a little cheaper, but if performed poorly, it can soon lead to new malfunctions.

Do-it-yourself pump repair

In most cases, doing repairs yourself comes down to eliminating mechanical damage. The most popular types of repairs are replacing the impeller or bearing units.

To completely disassemble the device, a special set of tools is required. The case is opened when completely disconnected from the power supply and on a dry apparatus. In most cases, repairs are entrusted to experienced specialists.

VIDEO: Features of equipment repair

The country resident is well aware of the inherent property of submersible pumps to refuse to pump water at the most inopportune moment. It’s good if there is a spare one or the owner has prudently installed a head with a lifting collar on the well. Otherwise, you may end up having to go with buckets to the nearest pump and limit your water consumption for a while.

The damage may be on the surface, and fixing it will take several minutes. We cannot ignore the extreme situation when resuscitation is impossible or irrational, even with the involvement of specialists. You can draw similar conclusions yourself. Submersible pumps suffer from the same disadvantages. Using the elimination method, it will not be difficult to find the reason for the refusal.

The pump hums but does not pump water

Poor water supply should also be considered in this case. A possible cause of the malfunction could be:

loosening the rod nuts above the shock absorber. This often happens with vibration-type pumps. It is necessary to disassemble the housing and tighten the fasteners. Lock the top nut. The difficulty of repair is associated with corrosion of the screw connection of the housing. In this case, you should take a radical approach: cut off the fasteners with a chisel, hacksaw or grinder. Subsequently, to connect the halves of the outer shell, use a bolted connection;
valve failure. The most common cause of pump failure and equally easy to fix, if, of course, you have a repair kit. The cost is cheap, but the speed of troubleshooting depends on its availability. It is easy to establish such a reason. It is necessary to alternately blow strongly into the intake and supply pipes. If the air passes easily in both cases, the cause has been established;
rod breakage. A preliminary diagnosis of why the submersible pump does not pump can be given by shaking it. Springs, washers and bushings, in this case, receive freedom of movement. Therefore, the noise characteristic of rattles will be observed. The fault is finally identified during disassembly. Repairs are possible at home.

Signs of a short circuit are observed

Knocking out plugs and charring the current supply cable says:

about a burnt armature winding. Despite the terrible sound of the malfunction, the breakdown can be easily eliminated by replacing the burnt out element. When disassembling the pump, the reason will be clearly not only visible, but also tangible by smell;
cable malfunction. In some place the insulation was broken. The most difficult part in troubleshooting will be finding such an area. It is enough to apply additional insulation to the damaged area.

Strong vibration combined with overheating

As a rule, there is only one reason for this - peeling of the compound that is used to fill the electromagnet for fixation in the housing. At the same time, it plays the role of a heat sink and insulating material. To resolve the problem, you must contact a specialized organization. Compared to buying a new submersible pump, it will cost about half as much.

Low pressure

Indicates insufficient clearance between the coil and the armature. Within a second, the rod makes 100 translational movements. If their amplitude is small, the vibrations of the membrane are damped, and the performance of the pump decreases. To eliminate the breakdown, washers are added experimentally.

Advice: To do all this, you should have one more pump in stock and take care of the repair kit.

As sad statistics show, in 98% of cases the drainage pump fails due to the fault of the user. Factory defects, of course, also sometimes occur, but extremely rarely. The fault of many is that the operating instructions are read mainly when the pump is no longer working.

All types of complaints when contacting service companies and workshops can be divided into 4 groups:

all pumps are bad;
we used it correctly, but it burned out;
there was a circuit breaker (UPS, RCD, etc.), but it burned out;
thermal protection is indicated in the document, but it burned out.

1. Strange as it may sound, in the vast majority of cases the cause of unit failure is operation without water or liquid. Even if you have a high-quality Aquarius pump (it ranks first among domestic products), but the work goes idle, the engine eventually overheats. Even with thermal protection of the motor from overheating, the winding burns out when running dry repeatedly.

2. When purchasing a three-phase pump, you need to understand how to check the voltage of each phase and control the risk of breakage. If at least one phase breaks, the motor winding burns out within a few seconds. The same can be said about an incorrect connection, when initially some phase does not work. Moreover, there is practically no way to prevent combustion; seconds really count.

3. The fecal pump often fails when large insoluble objects get into the sewer. When disassembling the pump, you can find rags, laces, tights on the impellers, and sometimes even belts and things. Drainage pumps are designed to work with debris of different fractions, but protection against such items is simply not provided.

If there is no check valve, this is also a guaranteed breakdown of the working shaft. The fact is that when draining water, the wheel accelerates and turns in one direction, and when pumping out, in the other. If at the same time the unit releases water and receives a command to pump out, the shaft simply breaks out.

4. Violation of the operating range often leads to breakdowns. You cannot overload the equipment, but it is also prohibited to force it to work at half capacity. This is especially true for circulation pumps in the heating system.

5. Frequent switching on/off also significantly reduces the resources of the unit. In the absence of a frequency converter, the operation of such a pump will not exceed 12 months. Such problems are typical for private houses where a small hydraulic accumulator is installed. To replenish the pump, it has to be constantly turned on and work with increased current, which leads to rapid wear. It is enough to install a hydraulic accumulator 2-3 times larger to solve this problem.

And finally, let’s note the main problem - pulling the submersible pump by the power cable (some even manage to pull the float). In this case, the tightness of the cable connection is broken, which leads to breakdown. To make it easier to pull the unit to the surface, you must initially tie a rope to it.

Any malfunction of the water supply system at home is the result of an error by the organization or individual involved in its implementation. In this case, the homeowner has a good chance to learn from his mistakes by repairing the electric pump with his own hands and, with a “successful” set of circumstances, improve his health by carrying water manually for some time from the nearest water source.

Rice. 1 Well pump assembled

This sequence of actions applies to all types of pumping equipment, regardless of the location and method of installation. It should be noted that the power supply system of the pump, apart from the wires switched by switches, does not have complex circuits, so if the submersible water pump does not pump water, but starts and hums, problems with the supply of the required supply voltage in the vast majority of cases can be eliminated.

If the drainage pump or well model does not pump water, it may not start if the built-in or external condenser malfunctions and will require repair and replacement.

First of all, repair of electric pumps should begin by turning off the supply voltage, removing it from the water intake source and disconnecting the outlet hose.

When reconnected, the reasons why the pump does not work can be divided into several areas according to the location of the manifestation - we will consider them below.

Rice. 2 Water supply scheme for a private house

Typically, a properly assembled water supply system and high-quality pumps have devices that prevent them from operating in idle mode.

In the event of a malfunction of such protective devices: the well dry running relay and the float switches of the drains, well or sewage pump, the devices can operate in the absence of water.

Sometimes the float switch of well or drainage pumps, due to improper installation, does not fall along with a drop in the water level (it falls on a hillock or clings to a protruding object) - this leads to the electric pump operating in idling mode and its further failure.

Rice. 3 Popular Gilex pump with float switch

Vibration pumps, which usually do not have external protective devices connected to the system, operating for a long time without water after its level drops, can fail in the absence of built-in thermal protection.

Depressurization or breakage of the water main

The malfunction will help to identify the removal of the deep pump from the water intake source and connection to the supply voltage on the surface. If the pump, lowered into the water for testing, pumps water with the required pressure, then you should look for a leak at the place where the hose is connected to the outlet pipe or in the pipes that are laid underground for regular water supply at home (in a house, a leak can be easily noticed by the presence of water on the floor in a room with pumping equipment).

Mismatch between pump parameters and water intake source

During the dry season or with a sharp increase in water consumption, a situation may occur when the well or well does not have time to fill (the flow rate of the source is too low for normal operation of the pumping equipment). In this case, the electric pump will operate in dry running mode for some time in the absence of a similar relay or float switch in the system.

A very common reason for the lack of water when the pump is running. Similar malfunctions can occur during the installation of pumping equipment: dirt and foreign objects can penetrate into the pipes. During operation, the screens and replaceable filter cartridges become clogged.

Fig.4 Clogged electric pump disassembled

The filters and impeller of the impeller of submersible devices need regular cleaning during operation - if this does not happen, over time they become clogged and the operating pump hums, but does not pump water or does so with low pressure.

A situation often occurs when the pump actuator stops completely when clogged - the impeller does not rotate, and the vibration pump piston does not move. A clogged well or drainage pump removed from a water intake tank does not pump water when turned on superficially - do-it-yourself repairs will require disassembly and further cleaning of the device mechanism.

The biggest problem that can happen to an electric pump is the burnout of the winding, and the device usually cannot be repaired (rewinding the winding with your own hands is difficult, and in a workshop the cost of work and materials will not be comparable to the price of the electric pump).

With this malfunction, the electric pump will hum, but will not be able to pump water.

Fig.5 Vibration pumps under repair

Sometimes the impeller of borehole and well pumps may break, the check valve system may fail (they will not allow water to pass through) and the piston ring of vibration models may fail.

Due to constant vibrations during operation, vibration pumps are subject to loosening and unwinding of the mounting mechanism of the composite body, the fixing nuts of the check valve and the piston. These factors can lead to the loss of functionality of a working electric pump, which will hum but not pump water.

Violation of the operating rules for submersible pumps, errors in the installation of the water supply system, a sharp increase in water intake and a decrease in the flow rate of a well or borehole can lead to the hum of a working electric pump, in which water will not flow to the consumer. In most cases, you can repair electric pumps yourself if you remove the device to the surface to accurately determine the problem area.