Drainage at their summer cottage: the easiest way to remove excess moisture. Do-it-yourself drainage in the country: photo

Equipping their garden plot, especially from scratch, many gardeners try to do the drainage of the garden plot with their own hands. Until recently, parks and gardens were designed exclusively by landscape designers. Now, very often, the owners themselves plan the placement of plantings on their land, drawing up a site drainage project.

What is drainage for?

Sometimes, in a rainy summer, gardeners have to deal with such a very unpleasant phenomenon as flooding part, or even the entire plot, with water. If such a “wet” period occurs during the ripening of the crop, part of it may die. In addition, some malicious people are very fond of wet soil. garden pests(slugs, snails) that destroy grown vegetables, berries and even flowers. Therefore, the drainage of a garden plot is an important and sometimes integral part of the care of both newly-made owners of garden acres, and those who have had them for more than one year.

The word "drainage" has several meanings:

1. A material that absorbs water well from the soil, usually used when growing plants in closed ground.
2. The method of removal and withdrawal of surface or groundwater from a piece of land using a system of pipes, wells and similar devices.

Different soil types absorb moisture differently. Through light porous soils, water passes almost without delay. Plants planted on such soils do not have time to get the amount of water they need for growth and development. Clay, heavy soils, on the contrary, do not allow water to pass to the roots, which again deprives the plants of proper nutrition.

Pro tip: Determine the type of soil in your area. To do this, you need to dig a small hole up to 60 cm deep, pour water into it and notice the time when all the water goes into the soil. Complete absorption of water per day will indicate that the soil in the area is very porous. If the water does not leave for more than two days, the earth is too dense.

In order to somehow correct the situation in the case of heavy, poorly water-permeable soils, it will be necessary to drain the site - drainage for the removal of groundwater.

How to arrange a drainage system?

Charting

Before starting work, the drainage scheme of the site should be well thought out. You should start with the water intake equipment. Then trenches are prepared for the collector, which collects water from the drainage pipes (drains), and for the entire drain system.

Drainage system rules:

• The diameter of each drain is 6-9 cm, the diameter of the collector is up to 10 cm. In areas of up to 0.5 ha, their diameters can be equal.
• The depth of the trenches intended for the collector and pipes is 1-1.2 m, the width is up to 35-40 cm.

• The depth of open areas in very relief areas is about 1 m, and on relatively flat or with a slight slope - up to 1.5 m.
• The slope of the entire drainage system towards the collector is 2-3 mm per meter of pipe with a diameter of 50-100 mm. For pipes larger diameter and the slope should be somewhat smaller. Drainage pipes in the area with clay soil are laid at a distance of 7-10 m from each other, and in the area with light sandy soil - 15-20 m.
• The entire drainage system should be located no closer than 1 m from the foundation of the house and 0.5 m from the fence.

In case of location land plot in a lowland or on a slope, the question arises: how to properly drain the site so that water does not accumulate and stagnate in the lowest place?

Since the water intake in such cases is usually located above the territory requiring drainage, it is necessary to build a drainage well. It contains a special drainage pump, which automatically pumps all the water up into a ditch or ravine, which is a water receiver.

Work order

Work is performed in the following order:

1. Make a drainage well 2-3 m deep. You can strengthen its walls with reinforced concrete rings with a diameter of up to 1 m.
2. In order for the drainage pipes to serve for a long time without silting - the ingress of clay particles into the pipes, they should be wrapped with a special material before laying, which filters coarse particles. But most often, such pipes are sold already covered with geotextiles that act as a filter.

1. Volumetric filters made from rye straw, fibrous peat or weaving waste are also widely used. They provide good protection for drainage systems ah plastic pipes.

Pro tip: The permeability of filters made of straw does not decrease for a long time due to auto-regeneration - the ability to restore its porosity with the inevitable decomposition of the filter material during operation. These filters are well suited for use on loamy and clay soils.

1. Drainage pipes are laid in trenches prepared and covered with 5 cm gravel.
2. They are sprinkled with gravel or crushed stone (not lime!) for 30-40 cm, and then for another 30 cm - coarse sand, on top of which a layer of fertile soil is laid.

How to extend the life of the drain

The drainage system implemented with the help of drains is quite effective. Drainage of a garden plot, carried out using only crushed stone and broken bricks, will require carrying out after 5-7 years after the start of operation. repair work or complete replacement. A system consisting of pipes can last without overhaul up to 50 years old.

Here are a few conditions that make up the observance of which will extend the life of the drainage system:

1. A complete ban on the movement of heavy vehicles in the area where drains are laid. For the passage of equipment, if necessary, it is best to arrange a temporary road.
2. Carrying out loosening of the earth, compacted by the wheels of machines, to make it permeable and loose. This will ensure reliable operation of the entire drainage system.
3. Flushing drains to avoid possible clogging of their holes with clay particles or rust every 2-3 years with a strong pressure of water sent from the hose from the collector into the drainage pipe system.

Any excavation in the garden it is better to carry out when the earth has not yet dried to a “stone” state. Wet soil, although harder than dry soil, in this case you will not break the tools, and the work will be carried out more efficiently. Otherwise, carrying out the described work is unlikely to cause any difficulties.

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Drainage on garden plot- it's pretty important element which is vital for many land plots. Given the high cost of any construction works, self-construction of the drainage system is of great relevance, because it can be done with the help of improvised means and some materials. Thus, it becomes possible to provide a summer cottage with a high-quality drain without the involvement of specialists. To perform drainage work, you will need the following tools:

• trowel;
• shovel;
• wheelbarrow;
• building level;
• roulette;
• hacksaw.

Stone and fashin drainage in the garden

Each fascine bundle should be at least 30 cm thick, with thick branches forming the center, and small branches tied on the sides. Fashin laying starts from the top of the ditch. In addition, from the sides you need to lay bunches of moss. To connect a trench with a pit, you need to create a source with a socket made of boards.

Such a system can last about 25 years, especially if it is located on peat soil. Stone drainage can be a good alternative to a fascinated system. To equip the stone system, crushed stone about 8-10 cm in size is selected. The bottom of the trench is laid with such stones, and the free space is laid with smaller particles. The thickness of the stone layer in the trench should be at least 30 cm. From above, the rubble is laid with moss, and the topmost layer will be turf, grass down. In this case, trenches with a depth of about 1 meter are sufficient.

Do-it-yourself wooden and ceramic drainage

At the junction of the drainage pipeline with the reservoir, a wooden pipe, which will be the source, and it includes another pipe, also made of wood. As a result, the trench is filled up, covered with turf and covered with earth. The depth of the trench in this case will also be about 1 meter.

Pipes are mounted from the source. For drainage, you can use poles (coniferous branches about 7-10 cm thick are especially popular). Before laying the poles, it is necessary to clean them from the bark. The laying of the poles is carried out on pre-positioned transverse partitions. You can make one or two layers of poles, it all depends on personal preference. If necessary, brushwood can be used for the drainage system, and the algorithm of actions will completely repeat the order described above. This is an excellent drainage in the garden plot with your own hands, but in this case we are not talking about durability.

Soft garden drainage

How to make soft drainage in the garden or at their summer cottage? First, a trench is dug or drainage pit. The main thing is to observe the slope, which will allow the water to go towards the ditch or reservoir. The bottom of the trench is laid by the tecton in such a way that its shape resembles a trough. Then the ditch must be covered with geotextile, and it must be laid with a margin of about 40 cm upwards so that an overlap can be created.

A layer of drainage material (crushed stone or gravel) is laid on top of the geotextile, which should occupy approximately 2/3 of the height of the trench. This material is wrapped with the free edges of the geotextile, after which the entire structure is covered with sand and leveled. Such drainage on a garden plot with your own hands is quite simple, and in terms of characteristics it is quite comparable with the highest quality and complex systems.

open type drainage

It is not difficult to create such a drainage of a garden plot with your own hands: the design is quite simple and reliable. To arrange open-type drainage, a trench 50 cm wide is dug around the perimeter of the site, and one of its sides must be inclined by 40 degrees to ensure water flow. Water through such a drain will leave quite quickly, and there are practically no difficulties in creating it. Of course, this type of drainage is not suitable for everyone, because few people want to observe the ditches around their site. But for those who have no problems with such trifles, such a system will be an extremely successful find.

closed type drainage

The depth of the trenches will depend on the abundance of vegetation: if there are large trees, the depth will be about one and a half meters, and if there are only small bushes on the site, then half a meter depth will be enough.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself drainage systems for garden plots can be built without any problems. Each of them has its own characteristics and characteristics, and the final choice will depend on the owner of the site. If the system is chosen correctly, then after its installation, the working processes will be invisible, as well as any problems associated with excess water on the site.

In order for your garden to grow and develop according to the laws of nature, and not according to your whim, the soil must have such properties that would fully favor the growth and development of plants.

To do this, it is necessary to create growth conditions as close as possible to natural ones - thermal, water, air and mineral regimes.

One of the steps to create such conditions is the drainage of the soil on the site.

Many gardeners notice that after snow melts or heavy rain, water does not soak into the ground for a long time, there are puddles in the garden, and the water even rots. Waterlogging of the soil is always detrimental to most plants in the middle zone.

Excess moisture reduces the access of air to the roots of plants, so the plants begin to experience oxygen starvation and they die.

In winter, in the lowlands, plants often die from soaking. Flora in such places feels oppressed, grows weakly, plants quickly lose their decorative and fertile qualities. This behavior of the garden suggests that your plants are not suitable for water regime that exists in the garden.

To improve soil quality and create more favorable conditions for growth garden plants, soil drainage is carried out, during which excess water is removed from the garden or summer cottage.

The task of drainage is to ensure the most favorable condition of the upper soil cover at a depth of 1-1.5 meters by diverting water from cultivated land.

Drainage systems can be divided into deep and surface.

Surface

Simple drainage of the site protects the soil from waterlogging, which can be caused by precipitation, melt waters, etc.

Surface drainage is of two types:

1. Linear

This is a system of trays laid directly on the surface of the soil, inclined to the water intake or.

For safety of use trays are closed from above by special decorative protective lattices.

Linear drainage in the garden is often, which greatly increases its effectiveness.

The sand trap retains small stones, sand and debris that can enter the wastewater and contribute to accelerated clogging of the system. Linear drainage in the country does an excellent job of removing excess water from the soil, provided that ground water in this place lie deep.

1. dotted

This drainage suggests that collect water. Through pipes laid underground, this water merges into the general drainage and enters the water intake.

Artificial water intakes are installed under street drainpipes, water taps or at the lowest point in the garden, so excess water is collected without additional devices.

Deep

Regulates the water balance in the soil by laying perforated pipes, which are called drains. These pipes absorb excess moisture from the soil.

If surface drainage can be done by hand, then deep drainage is recommended to be carried out by specialists.

For deep drainage, a hydrogeological study of the soil is necessary.

Soil protection from water and system design

Drainage and water diversion are the main methods for regulating and protecting the site from water. Such measures are taken if:

1. The site is located at the bottom of a gentle slope, from which water constantly flows from above.
2. If rain or melt water from the entire slope has time to saturate the soil during runoff.

If the site has a slope of more than three degrees, then it must be protected mainly from washing off the fertile layer.

Drainage and protection of the site from surface rain or melt water is carried out in two ways:

1. Embankment - shafts are made of any bulk material, except sand. Shafts are installed from the water inlet side.
2. The interception of water and the arrangement of small ditches with their location across the slope above and below the site, followed by drainage into the storm drain.

What problems are solved with the help of drainage:

1. Rapid removal of rain and melt water. This measure brings the site into working condition immediately after rain or thawing of the soil.
2. Lowering the groundwater level, draining excess water after the rainy season or after a downpour. This is more common in heavy clay soils.

Self-drainage can be done, but if you are not confident in your abilities, then it is better to entrust both design and construction to specialists.

On small plot the drainage project can be carried out without preliminary calculations.

It is necessary to take into account the depth of drains (drainage pipes), their diameter and slope, the distance between them, the location, how the mouth part of the drainage will be arranged and manholes.

Do-it-yourself work on the drainage of a summer cottage

The drainage system is a complex of structures. Usually in the drained area there is a water intake, a conductive network, a regulating network and a fencing network:

• A water intake is a natural body of water (river, stream, lake). They can also serve as a ravine or ditch.
• The water supply network, that is, drainage is adjustable system closed collectors and open channels through which water is discharged from the drained area to the water intake.
• The regulating network is an open drainage, which consists of ditches. Such a network can be arranged in large areas or along their perimeter, and a conductive network can be run along the street.

Also, drainage can be closed, vertical, horizontal, or mixed.

It is more profitable to use horizontal closed drainage, which is arranged from deep trenches. At the bottom of these trenches, drains are made - these are either drainage pipes, or any material that can conduct the flow of water: crushed stone with clay, brick, gravel, etc.

The purpose of drainage is to collect excess groundwater and rainwater and drain it into a water intake. With the help of drainage, moisture is regulated in the upper, fertile soil layer. Trenches are made with a slope to the water intake, and the rate of discharge of excess water depends on the slope.

In order to intercept incoming ground and rain water, a network of enclosing channels up to 2 meters deep is arranged along the perimeter.

Do-it-yourself surface system device

Any drainage begins with the installation of a new or connection of an existing water intake. If a water intake is made or already exists, then a trench must be laid under it, in which a closed collector will pass. Through the collector from the drains, water enters the water intake.

Drains also require trenches. Trench size for sewer and drains small areas(less than 50 acres) can be the same - 30-40 cm, depth - up to 1.5 m. Pipes for the collector and drains are selected with a diameter of up to 100 mm.

The collector must be lower than the drains so that the water itself flows first into the collector, and then into the water intake. If the drains and the collector are made open, then their depth depends on the terrain.

If the area is flat or has minimum slope, then a channel depth of 1.5 m is sufficient. All drainage should have a slope of 2-5 mm per 1 running meter for pipes 100 mm in diameter. If the diameter of the pipes is larger, then the slope becomes larger.

Watch a video on how to make surface drainage with your own hands

Location on the ground

The drainage system must be:

• at least 1 meter away from home
• from the fence - at a distance of 0.5 m.

Distance between drains:

• For clay soil should be 7-10 meters
• for light soil - up to 15-20 meters.

If the site is located on a slope or in a lowland, and the water intake is higher, then it is necessary to build a drainage well 2-5 meters deep.

It is installed in the well, pumping out water in automatic mode. The well needs to be strengthened concrete rings or fittings. You can also lay out the walls of the well with stone or brick.
In order to protect the pipes from the penetration of clay particles, they are wrapped with geotextiles. Pipes with ready-made protection are also sold.

In addition, a volumetric drainage filter can be used, which is made from textile waste, straw, peat, coconut fibers, etc.

An organic filter, for example, from the same straw, is also effective for the reason that it for a long time it is not clogged with solid and silty particles, that is, it does not reduce its water permeability, since in the process of self-decomposition its porosity is constantly restored.

The use of organic filters is especially effective on clay and loamy soils.

To make such a filter, it is necessary to pour rubble with a layer of 5 cm at the bottom of the drainage trench, and lay pipes on the rubble at the specified angle. From above, the pipes are lined with straw, then with crushed stone with a layer of 30-40 cm.

Crushed stone should be used in the middle fraction - 10-30 mm. Do not use crushed stone or gravel mixed with lime, as it creates aggressive environment for pipes.

Sand is poured on top of the rubble with a layer of 5-30 cm, on which the turf is laid last - a fertile layer of soil.

The use of pipes for laying the system is most effective for draining or reclamation of the site. It should not be forgotten that drainage only based on crushed stone, gravel or brick will only work well for 5-10 years. After that, it needs to be completely changed.

Therefore, it is better to spend some more money and make a filtration of the drainage system, which will extend its operation for another same period of time.

With proper arrangement, care and operation, the pipe drainage system can last up to 50 years. But there is one indispensable condition - a tractor or a heavy vehicle cannot be allowed into the site.

If you need the presence of equipment, then it is easier to make a temporary entrance. After dismantling the temporary road, this section still needs to be loosened at least to a depth of 20-30 cm.

Remember - drainage works not only where pipes are laid. Its effectiveness extends to the entire area. Once every few years, pipes should be flushed with a high-pressure water jet to prevent silting.

If the drainage system is equipped correctly, then in the course of its operation (1-2 years), a favorable hydrological and reclamation regime will be established on your garden plot, which will maintain maximum effective conditions for the growth and development of plants.

The problem of flooding and increased waterlogging of the soil is familiar to the owners of sites located in the central region of Russia. Dampness and stagnant water after the snow melts do not allow for proper preparation of the summer cottage for summer season, and waterlogging of the soil with constant precipitation is detrimental to many plants. There are several ways to solve these problems, but the most effective is the arrangement of drainage.

When is a drainage system needed?

Drainage is a technology for collecting and diverting ground, melt and storm water from a site, technical and residential buildings. The drainage system prevents washing out, heaving and waterlogging of the soil, which occurs due to oversaturation with moisture.

The arrangement of the drainage system is not necessary in every area. In order to determine how badly your site needs drainage, you will need to conduct a visual inspection. Pay attention to whether the area is flooded after the snow melts, how quickly water is absorbed after watering the plants, whether there are puddles after heavy rain and heavy rain. If you have observed these signs more than once, then drainage is required.

Drainage system helps to remove stagnant water from the site

If visual confirmation is not enough, then you can conduct a simple experiment - using hand drill or an ordinary shovel, you should dig a hole 70–100 cm deep. It is better to do this in several places on the site. If after 24–36 hours water accumulates at the bottom of the pit and does not leave, then this is direct evidence of oversaturation of the soil with moisture.

Soil drainage is carried out under the following conditions:

• high occurrence of groundwater;
• the site is located in an area with clay soil;
• the site is located in a lowland or vice versa - on a slope;
• falls out at the location of the site a large number of precipitation.

The presence of drainage contributes to the preservation of finishing and facing materials used for styling garden paths, finishing the basement and facade of the building.

Types of dehumidification systems

There are a wide variety of land drainage systems. At the same time, in various sources their classification can be very different from each other. In the case of drainage systems for suburban and summer cottages, it is recommended to use the simplest and most proven solutions.

Surface type drainage

Surface drainage is the most simple and efficient system. The main task is to drain the soil by draining water formed as a result of heavy rainfall and uneven snowmelt.

Grids protect the open drainage system from large debris

The surface drainage system is constructed over the area of ​​the site, around the house and buildings adjacent to it, near garage structures, warehouses and the courtyard. Surface drainage is divided into two subspecies:

1. Point - in some sources it is designated as local drainage. It is used to collect and divert water from a certain place on the site. The main area of ​​application is drainage of sites under drains, about entrance doors and gates, in the area of ​​tanks and taps for irrigation. Often used as an emergency system if another type of drainage is overloaded.
2. Linear - used to drain the entire area. It is a system consisting of receiving trays and channels arranged at a certain angle, providing a constant flow of water. The drainage system is equipped with filter grates and sand traps. Trays and drains are made of PVC, polypropylene, HDPE or polymer concrete.

On device surface system drainage it is recommended to combine point and linear drainage. This will provide the most efficient work systems. If necessary, point and line drainage can be combined with the system described below.

deep drainage

deep drainage It is carried out in the form of a pipeline laid in places where it is necessary to constantly drain the soil or lower the level of groundwater. Drains are laid with observance of a slope in the direction of the flow of water, which enters the collector, well or reservoir located outside the site.

The process of constructing deep drainage in a suburban area

To lower the groundwater level, pipes are laid along the perimeter of the site to a depth of 80-150 cm. In the case when it is necessary to divert water from the foundation of the building, the pipes must be laid below its depth. And also drainage pipes can be laid over the entire area of ​​​​the site with a certain step. The distance between drains depends on the depth of their laying and the mechanical composition of the soil.

For example, when constructing a drainage system, when drains are laid to a depth of 0.9–1 m, the recommended distance between them is at least 9–11 m. On loamy soil under the same conditions, the step between drains decreases to 7–9 m, and on clayey up to 4–5.5 m. More detailed data for different depths of laying can be seen in the table below. The information is taken from the book "Draining land for gardens" by A.M.Dumbljauskas.

When laying the pipe, the features of the terrain are observed. According to the technology, drains are laid from the highest to the lowest point on the site. If the site is relatively flat, then to give a slope, a slope is formed along the bottom of the trench. The minimum slope level is 2 cm per 1 linear meter of the drainage pipe when constructing drainage in clay and loamy soil. For sandy soil, a slope of 3 cm per 1 meter is observed.

When arranging drainage of a long length, a minimum slope must be observed along the entire length of the drainage route. For example, for a drainage system with a length of 15 m, the minimum level difference between the start and end points of the route will be at least 30 cm.

If possible, it is recommended to exceed the declared slope standards. This will provide faster drainage, reduce the risk of silting and clogging of the drain. In addition, digging a trench with a large slope is much easier than measuring out 1–2 cm.

Drainage at their summer cottage - the easiest way with instructions

In order to independently carry out drainage of the land plot through the drainage system, you will need to familiarize yourself with the technology of work, calculate and purchase necessary materials, prepare a tool and a place to perform work.

Surface drainage of a summer cottage

Open surface drainage is a universal solution for draining summer cottages large area. For example, for typical plots of 6 acres. You can use the diagram below as a basis. It depicts a drainage route in the shape of a Christmas tree. The distance between the drains, as discussed above, is selected based on the type of soil (see table).

An example of the location of the drainage system at their summer cottage

To carry out the work, you will need a shovel and bayonet shovel, roulette, bubble level, hammer and sharp construction knife. As materials, it will be necessary to prepare gravel of a fraction of 20–40, geotextiles, an edged bar or a board 2–3 m long.

For the construction of surface drainage in a summer cottage, you will need to do the following:

Sometimes, the base of the trench is concreted along the entire length of the drainage route. This allows you not to worry that over time the earthen walls will begin to crumble, the water flow will deteriorate, etc. But this approach is more laborious and requires the ability to work with concrete mix.

Drainage of the site using deep drainage

Deep drainage is a standard solution for draining summer cottages and suburban areas. A deep drainage system can be installed even when there is protective blind area, concrete or slab walkways. If necessary, their partial dismantling can be performed, but in general the structure will not suffer.

An example of a project for a drainage system in a suburban area

Deep drainage works include the following:

1. According to the design plan of the site, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the location of the drainage pipes and determine the point of water discharge, that is, the place from where the collected water will drain into sewer pipes leading to a drainage well. The depth of the pipeline should be below the freezing level of the soil. For the Northwestern region, this value is about 60–80 cm.

   Preparation of trenches for the construction of deep drainage

2. Taking into account the plan, a trench is excavated along the perimeter and area of ​​​​a site up to 1 m deep. The width of the trench is at least 30 cm. All horizontal sections of the trenches are combined into a single system, which is brought to the point of water discharge. After that, the trenches are dug with a slope of 2–4 cm per 1 m of surface. To check the quality of the runoff, the trenches are shed with a large volume of water. If necessary, the slope towards the drainage well increases.

   A pit for a drainage well must be dug at the lowest point on the site

3. At the lowest point of the site, a place is arranged for the installation of a water intake or filtering drainage well. For large areas located on loamy and clay soil types, it is better to install storage types of wells with a volume of up to 1000 liters. For small areas, both storage and filter wells can be used. The type of tank is selected based on the type of soil.

   A wide sheet of geotextile is laid on top of the gravel layer.

4. Fine-grained gravel is poured into the bottom of the trench. The thickness of the layer is 10 cm. Geofabric is laid on the gravel with an overlap on the walls of the trench. To fix the canvas to the walls, wooden or plastic pegs are used, which are driven into the ground. After that, a 10 cm layer of crushed stone with a fraction of 50–60 is poured onto the laid geotextile and carefully leveled in compliance with the slope. A drainage pipe from Ø 110 mm is laid on the crushed stone.
5. In places where the drain turns, modular manholes are installed. The diameter and height of the well depend on the estimated volume waste water. To connect the pipe to the mounting hole, a coupling is used, which is coated with a waterproof sealant before joining. Similar actions are carried out to connect the drainage pipe to the well pipe.

   An inspection drainage well is installed in places where the drainage pipe turns

6. Before backfilling, the drainage system is checked for operability. For this, it merges along the drains large volume water. If the water quickly drains and enters the well, then everything is done correctly and you can proceed to the final stage. In other cases, you need to find and fix the problem.
7. A 20–30 cm layer of gravel with a fraction of 20–40 is poured over the drainage pipes and carefully leveled. After that, drains with laid rubble are covered with geotextiles. A 10–15 cm layer is poured over the geotextile quarry sand and carefully compacted. The remaining space in the trench can be covered with fertile soil or ordinary soil from the site.

Ways to drain a site without drainage

Excessive moisture in the soil and stagnant water in the area are not always associated with high level ground water. Sometimes this is due to abnormally low temperatures and heavy rainfall. The combination of these factors leads to the fact that moisture does not have time to evaporate, puddles and mold form on the soil surface.

If, due to some circumstances, the installation of a drainage system is impossible, then there are several effective ways to drain the land:

Of the above methods of draining the site, the most effective are the addition of a sufficient amount of fertile soil and the arrangement of trenches around the perimeter. On average, 1 m 3 of soil will cost 550–600 rubles. For a plot of 6 acres, 10–12 m 3 of soil is enough.

The easiest way to drain the soil on the site

The arrangement of shallow trenches filled with rubble is the most in a simple way drainage of the suburban area. Despite the general simplicity, this method is very effective and is able to cope with a large amount of water formed during the melting of snow.

Work on the arrangement of trenches around the perimeter and area of ​​​​the site includes the following:

If desired, the second layer of crushed stone can be reduced, and the remaining space can be sprinkled with soil from the site. This will hide the drainage under the turf layer. It is not recommended to plant flowers and greenery over the drainage trench. This is fraught with their death due to the high humidity in this place.

How to clear a blockage in a drain pipe

Failure to comply with the technology of laying drainage pipes is the main cause of stagnation and poor drainage of water from distribution wells. In addition, very often stagnant water is not associated with blockage at all. Insufficient slope does not provide a constant and uniform discharge of accumulated water towards the drainage pit.

To clear small blockages, use a steel cable or a hose with strong water pressure.

The easiest way to clean drain pipes is to use a steel cable to clean the drains. At one end of the cable there is a spiral nozzle, at the other there is a handle with which you can rotate the cable, creating a mechanical load at the site of blockage.

For cleaning pipes Ø110 mm and more, it is recommended to use a cable with a steel brush of the appropriate size. In the process of cleaning, it is necessary to lower the cable into drainage pipe until its end reaches the blockage. Further, by rotating the cable clockwise, you need to try to break through the blockage or move it towards the water drain. Usually, small accumulations of silt and foliage are pushed through without much difficulty.

If it was not possible to eliminate the blockage, then it will be necessary to call specialists who, using a pneumatic installation and other equipment, will not only clean the blockage, but also carry out preventive cleaning of the entire surface of the drainage pipes.

Video: do-it-yourself site drainage

Oversaturation of the soil with moisture and stagnation of water in the area are big problem, which affects not only the growth of fruit-bearing crops, but also reduces the life of a residential building. But it is worth remembering that an excess of water can be dealt with with the help of a drainage system. It is much worse if there is enough fresh water and moisture, and the arrangement of the well is impossible due to some circumstances.

To have outdoor recreation in country house was comfortable, it is important to equip both the dwelling itself and the surrounding area. Plants should turn green and bloom, and landscape design should be pleasing to the eye. To do this, you should take care of the garden plot, arrange a lawn and, importantly, lay drainage.

The purpose of the drainage system or what is drainage

Drainage- the construction is not cheap, but more and more owners are trying to install it in their garden or summer cottage. So why do you need drainage in the garden and how does it improve the territory?

It is necessary, first of all, to remove excess moisture from the territory of the summer cottage. It could be rain, melted snow, or excess groundwater. Excessive moisture in the area can lead to the death of plants and the appearance of pests. Dense soils are especially affected by excessive moisture.

You can be more specific by contacting us for a consultation. We'll tell what is the price garden drainage , advise optimal solution for maximum efficiency.

In order to determine whether the soil needs drainage, it is enough to answer a few questions.
Is your property on a slope?
Is it located at the bottom?
The territory is on a flat surface, and moisture is slowly absorbed into the soil and does not leave?

If at least one question received a positive answer, you definitely need high-quality modern drainage. Its need is clearly visible in the spring: water standing on the site for a long time is a sure sign.

If the garden area is on a slope, showers can erode the fertile soil layer. In this case, transverse channels are installed to divert flows. If the site is surrounded by slopes, drainage should be installed around the perimeter. The site, located on a flat area, is drained by a uniform network of channels.

Types and device of drainage

Drainage is of two types: open and closed. An open one is necessary to drain excess after rain, or after the snow has begun to melt.

Closed drainage in the garden is used in the case of a close location of groundwater. For this, channels and pipes are used, which transport the surplus outside the site, as a rule, to a special well.

Drainage improves soil fertility. Depending on the tasks assigned, there are linear, point, deep drainage.

Linear drainage represents inclined trays in which liquid will be collected and sent to a certain place, which is called a collector well. Its contents can subsequently be used for irrigation, or discharged into the deep layers of the soil. It is customary to install such drainage along the perimeter, along the paths, around the foundation and, in some cases, across the entire yard.

Point system involves the installation of storm water inlets (catchment cubes) in the most humid places after rains or at a time when the snow melts. The combination of linear and point drainage gives excellent results.

deep drainage used in cases where groundwater is too close (less than 1 meter) to the surface. Deep drainage protects the house and other buildings from flooding. For this, perforated pipes are used, laid with a slope towards the drain point.

Cost and maintenance of drainage

Drainage is individual order, for this reason, the cost depends not only on its type, but also on the project itself. To find out how much garden drainage costs in Moscow and the Moscow region, we recommend calling a specialist from our company to inspect the territory and take measurements. In the case of a contract, the call of a specialist is not paid. Materials and project are also included in the price.

It is best to provide for drainage at the planning stage of the area. Surface drainage is installed along the paths, around the foundation, so it must be in harmony with the overall design.