Which is better GCL or smallpox? Using OSB boards for interior decoration of a house

Among the huge range of finishing materials, plasterboard and oriented particle boards. Both options have their own strengths and weak sides. And to figure out which is better, OSB or drywall, you need to familiarize yourself with them in more detail.

What is drywall, its pros and cons

Drywall can rightfully be called one of the most versatile materials for interior decoration Houses. With it you can create perfect smooth walls, produce structures of any complexity in the form of arches, original niches, multi-level ceilings, pilasters, columns and much more.

This versatility of drywall is ensured due to its base, which is natural material, obtained by firing at a temperature of 1800 degrees - building gypsum.

In addition to gypsum, the filler may contain PVA adhesive, starch, fiberglass, etc.

The gypsum, ready for further processing, is placed between two layers of thick cardboard. To make plasterboard sheets, cardboard with a density of 0.17 - 0.22 kg/m2 is used.

To ensure that this building material has a reliably protected edge, its edges are folded around the ends. This technique allows you to protect the sheet during transportation or storage.

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Pros of drywall:

• Naturalness of the material. No synthetic additives or toxic substances are used for its production, which allows you to obtain an environmentally friendly finish inside the house.
• Can be used in any room, but for use in places with high level humidity (for example, in the bathroom), it is recommended to choose moisture-resistant gypsum board
• Does not cause any difficulties during implementation installation work. The material lends itself well to any processing and is easily modified. This advantage of gypsum board allows you to create the most incredible designs and reliefs
• The ability to hide various communications in plasterboard niches, as well as uneven walls. Insulation material can be laid in the voids formed during the installation of drywall.
• High thermal and sound insulation qualities
• The ability to create a comfortable, controlled microclimate in a room finished with plasterboard that can absorb and release moisture
• GKL has a good fire safety rating
• Plasterboard structures lend themselves well to painting, plastering, tiling, and wallpapering.
• Possibility of quick and relatively simple repairs in case of cracks, dents, deformation, or through holes
• Availability of material

Disadvantages of plasterboard finishing:

• Moisture-resistant drywall, often used in bathtubs, cannot fully resist negative impact water. It is not recommended for use for finishing ceiling V multi-storey buildings, where there is a high probability of flooding by neighbors above
• In rooms with high humidity levels, even with special surface treatment, it is not always possible to resist the appearance of mold on gypsum boards. Only installing at finishing waterproof materials, you can achieve the desired result
• Low mechanical strength of the material, which requires reinforcement future design using embedded elements for fastening lighting fixtures or in places where paintings, equipment, household items, etc. will be hung.
• Precision and accuracy when working with gypsum plasterboard; fastening must take into account the characteristics of the material
• The need for additional finishing (sealing seams, recesses)
• Availability of a dry room in case of storing sheets in reserve

In order to understand which is better - drywall or OSB board, it is recommended to study the strengths and weaknesses of the latter.

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What are OSB boards, their pros and cons

Oriented strand boards (OSB, OSB, OSB) are made in the form of a multi-layer sheet texture from coniferous or hardwood chips made from non-commercial wood. Chips are glued together with various resins under the influence of high pressure and high temperature. On outside sheet shavings are laid out longitudinally, and with inside– transversely, which makes the slabs especially durable.

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Advantages of the material:

• Can be bent if necessary for interior wall decoration. Unlike plywood, it does not crack
• Moisture-resistant options can be used for external cladding of gazebos and outbuildings. The OSP-3 and OSP-4 grades with a high level of resistance to moisture have proven themselves especially well.
• When fastening the material does not cause any difficulties, the screws are securely held in the structure of the canvas
• The slabs are easy to process, fastening them is quite simple, and you can cut them to size with a chainsaw
• Availability of material
• Wide choice of finishes, you can use varnish - colorful materials, plaster, etc.
• Long service life if attached according to technology. If the slab is treated with a fire-resistant compound, it can last up to 300 years.
• High degree of strength
• Does not shrink
• The material contains no harmful components
• If you cover the slab with high-quality varnish, the surface will be complete

Disadvantages of OSB boards:

• There are products from manufacturers that add glue with formaldehyde and other substances harmful to human health.

When purchasing a product, you need to pay attention to its quality and composition.

To answer the question “Which is better, plasterboard or OSB for interior decoration of a house?”, you need to compare these two types of material.

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Comparison of gypsum board or OSB

To find out which is better, OSB or plasterboard on the walls for interior decoration, we will compare the following parameters:

• Scope of application. Both gypsum board and OSB can be actively used to create furniture (in the kitchen), ceilings and arched structures, curly elements. Using moisture-resistant options, you can cover the walls in the bathroom.
• Environmental friendliness. Two types of material high-quality manufacturing do not contain substances harmful to the human body.
• Moisture resistance. GCR is more susceptible to the development of mold on it than its opponent. If we consider what is better to mount on the bathroom wall, plasterboard or OSB, then it is better to give preference to universal products - OSB-3 with a high level of moisture resistance and susceptibility to mechanical loads.
• Strength. This is where oriented strand boards win.
• Difficult to process. Both materials are easy to process, and their load capacity is relatively high.
• Thermal and sound insulation qualities. If there are excessively loud sounds, the gypsum panel will vibrate. To eliminate this negative point, you will need to finish the surface with several layers of cladding and fill the voids with fiberglass or mineral wool. But today the manufacturer has presented a unique product - acoustic plasterboard with excellent soundproofing properties. It attaches very simply. With this approach, both materials will have almost the same effect.
• Difficulty at work. If you figure out what is better to mount, OSB or drywall, then there is not much difference. They attach equally well and do not cause any difficulties even for a home craftsman.

In which cases is it better to use OSB, and in which plasterboard?

For finishing roofs, for covering floors, for exterior work, for creating frame-panel construction, it is recommended to use oriented strand boards with high technical characteristics.

For interior wall decoration and execution original designs choose a material based on building gypsum.

Having found out which is better than OSB or plasterboard, you can begin planning renovations in a specific room. The main thing is to choose a product from a trusted manufacturer and install it reliably and efficiently, following construction technology. If moisture resistant drywall mounted on OSB, you can get a surface with a long service life and quite strong.

Smooth walls are the basis for the aesthetic appearance of the interior. At the same time, this calms the pride of the apartment owner doing the renovation. The relatively low cost and ease of installation make these finishing options budget-friendly. It is not surprising that most citizens strive to make plasterboard walls with their own hands.

The finishing technology is simple. You need to use a profile, fiberglass. When selecting paper gypsum board take into account the characteristics of the room. Reinforce joints with tape. Consider consumption per 1 m2 and taking into account cutting.

Leveling walls with plasterboard and OSB boards

Finishing with plasterboard and OSB is similar. The installation technology and complexity of the work are the same.

1. Wall preparation and leveling.
2. Fastening sheets with glue.
3. Additional fixation with metal fasteners.
4. Sealing of seams.
5. Finishing with plaster.

The difference is in the material that forms the basis of gypsum board and OSB. Drywall – paper base and gypsum as a binder. Smooth surface plasterboard walls does not require treatment for wallpapering. It is easy to drill and cut. Cladding walls with plasterboard with your own hands is not difficult. Its cost is significantly lower. Negative quality: poor vapor permeability.

OSB boards are made from natural material– large wood chips. The binding material is plant resin. A board with good vapor permeability and low thermal conductivity, close to solid wood. Wall cladding with OSB boards requires additional work. The joints are sealed with tape, and fiberglass is attached to the surface under the plaster. It is impossible to glue wallpaper and paint without leveling the OSB surface.

Cladding walls with eco-friendly slabs has disadvantages. These include the high cost and complexity of processing. Self-tapping screws do not fit well into OSB. The cutting is done with a grinder. This releases fine dust. Solutions containing lime should not be used. But in dachas OSB is used as a finishing material. Varnished or waxed wall cladding with pressed wood chips looks great.

Types of drywall and purpose

Plaster and cardboard in it are hygroscopic. Installation of ordinary sheets is possible in dry rooms with a constant temperature. In the rest, wall cladding with plasterboard is done with the selection of special grades that are resistant to moisture and fire. Additionally, fiberglass can be used for protection. But it is better to make a plasterboard wall from a more expensive material that matches the microclimate of the room. The installation technology and fastening do not change.

Choose the right slabs wall material The table will help you for plating.

Decorative drywall has a front covering of laminate or plastic. The consumption of panels takes into account the dimensions of the walls and sheets, cutting to cover everything with a minimum number of seams. It is correct to calculate the materials before installation: self-tapping screws, fiberglass, tape. It is better to glue it using a special composition, taking into account the wall material and the presence of profiles.

Preparing walls for finishing with plasterboard

Wall cladding according to metal frame allows you to cover all the unevenness of the wall. Crabs connect the profile, hangers allow you to align it vertically. Fastening is done in places where seams form. You can close the protruding beam and make a flat wall. The size of the room is reduced. The consumption of paper gypsum board is less. Profile costs are added and the work becomes more complicated.

It is better to glue the slabs to the wall yourself without using a frame. Wall cladding is cheaper, considering the size of drywall - it’s easier. The beam can be sheathed and turned into decor. The fasteners made from self-tapping screws and the consumption of crabs are saved.

Leveling walls with plasterboard without a frame requires careful surface preparation:

• cleaning of plaster;
• removal of protruding fragments;
• coating wall material with a primer;
• marking the location of seams.

As a frame for drywall for walls with a large difference in plane, instead of profiles, it is better to make base platforms from scraps. About the size of a profile crab. Work on installation will work faster and time consumption will be less if you install below and around the perimeter of the openings starting profile using self-tapping screws. Then the walls can be closed exactly horizontally.

Installation of drywall on walls and sealing joints

It is better to glue drywall to the wall with a special solution. Consumption is determined by surface roughness. For horizontal alignment, installation will simplify the starting profile. Vertical alignment is leveled. Side ends the slabs are pressed tightly, the drywall joints are tapped for alignment. Then the tape is applied.

After the glue has dried, it is done additional fastening slabs to the wall using self-tapping screws. Before sealing seams on drywall, they must be coated with a primer. Correctly apply the composition with a brush along the joint, saturate the ends. The seams are secured at the top with mesh tape. Then putty is applied. To strengthen the entire surface, you need to properly glue the fiberglass, placing the canvas overlapping from top to bottom.

Under ceiling beam Cutouts in the slabs must be made in advance, before installation. The dimensions are transferred to the drywall. The connection is then sealed and masked with tape.

Decorative interior elements made of plasterboard

If you want to make columns from plasterboard, then you will need a profile. Installation of the structure is done using crabs and self-tapping screws. Need to do reliable fastening to the floor. Place vertical strips at the seams. Crabs are placed from the inside.

After this, begin installing the plasterboard column with slabs. Seam tape is not suitable. A perforated L-profile is required. It aligns vertically and provides strength. Fiberglass is used to strengthen the surface. Place it correctly vertically. If you use a standing beam under the column, then a frame is not needed.

If desired, niches are made in the wall from plasterboard. For this purpose, slabs of medium thickness are selected. When making a plasterboard shelf inside the recess, cover its end with decorative tape. Dimensions cannot exceed the distance from the wall to the frame.

Fasteners using crabs. After finishing the seams with tape, you can glue them to plasterboard shelves. To create niches and columns, a wooden frame under plasterboard is used.

Preparing the surface for tiles

The term “OSB boards” or “oriented strand boards” is commonly used to refer to construction material new generation, obtained as a result of processing wood chips waterproof resins under high temperature and pressure conditions.

OSB boards consist of three layers of “wood wool” and wood chips coniferous species, having a length of 6-9 cm, located in opposite directions. That is, in the two outer layers the chips are in a parallel position relative to each other, and in the inner part of the slab they are in a vertical position, located perpendicular to the other layers. Due to this structure, the material has a high mechanical strength and flexibility.

Impregnated with waterproof wax and resins and pressed under the influence high temperatures and pressure allows OSB boards to acquire a uniform structure over the entire width and length and prevents the formation of voids and cracks in them.

Thus, the output is a high quality material made from pure wood, without small debris, with high technical and physical characteristics. It does not rot, is not affected by fungi and bacteria and, unlike natural wood, absolutely not flammable.

That is, at its core, OSB can be called “improved wood”, having all of it best qualities, as well as greater strength and elasticity, and free from such disadvantages as the presence of knots and changes in the direction of fibers during the natural growth of the tree.

Thus, if we evaluate this material using standard scale with a five-point gradation, it can be given “fives” for practicality, ease of use and environmental friendliness.

This is what the OSB board looks like in the photo

Types of OSB boards and their differences

According to the degree of moisture resistance and strength, OSB boards are divided into several main types:

The most popular among the listed species are. Applying to this species material using the previously used five-point rating scale, it can be noted that it deserves a solid “A” in categories such as environmental Safety, functionality and appearance.

However, given the fact that OSB cannot be classified as an inexpensive, affordable material, for its cost it can be given a “four” rating. In addition, reviews on the operation of panels and OSB sheets mostly positive.

Moisture resistance indicators OSB boards can be presented in table form:

That is, the most moisture-resistant board is OSB-4, which also has the highest strength characteristics.

According to the finishing method, it is customary to distinguish between the following types of OSB:

• Varnished (on one side such plates are coated with a special varnish).
• Laminated (having laminated coating). This kind of material can be used repeatedly (up to 50 times), for example, for the manufacture of reusable formwork in concrete work.
• Tongue-and-groove (having machined tongue-and-groove ends on two or four sides). Such slabs can be laid over the entire surface area.
• Polished.
• Unpolished.

One of the interesting varieties of oriented strand boards, which acquires Lately great popularity are Wall panels Kronospan, distinctive feature which can be called high quality.

They have exceptional consumer characteristics: they hide surface irregularities and flaws well, do not burn and are excellent insulators.

OSB-3 is the basis for the production of sandwich panels. This term is usually understood as energy-saving structures of a three-layer type, consisting of two oriented strand boards, between which there is a core of solid polystyrene foam, which acts as insulation.

Due to their excellent thermal insulation, sandwich panels can significantly reduce the cost of heating and cooling rooms, providing an optimal vapor and air barrier and limiting air infiltration.

In addition, sandwich panels have excellent soundproofing characteristics and high strength. In practice, it has been proven that structures built from this material are several times stronger than wooden structures frame type etc.

In the form of slabs and panels, which can have a wide range of sizes.

However, the following parameters are considered standard for this material:

• 1220 x 2440 mm;
• 1220 x 3660 mm;
• 1250 x 6000 mm;
• 1250 x 2500 mm;
• 1250 x 3700 mm.

The thickness of the panels can vary from 6 to 22 mm.

OSB or plywood: which is better?

Due to the fact that OSB is a relatively new material that appeared on our construction market not so long ago, it is often compared with other finishing materials, who managed to “conquer their niches” in construction industry. We are talking about plywood and drywall.

Plywood is a building material made from natural wood veneer, glued together in several layers using a special adhesive composition.

If we compare OSB boards with plywood, we can note the following key points, which are quite strong arguments in favor of the former:

• Production of this material made from cheaper raw materials. (OSB is made from wood chips, while plywood is made from wood veneer). That is, it is economically much more profitable and less demanding on the quality of the raw materials.
• The production of OSB boards is an environmentally friendly process that does not pose a threat to the environment and humans.
• OSB can be recycled.
• Plates made from this material are distinguished by their homogeneous structure. They do not have knots, pockets and other flaws characteristic of wood.
• The shear strength of OSB boards exceeds that of plywood.
• With the same parameters and dimensions, OSB sheets weigh less than plywood sheets.
• The strength of OSB does not change with changes in the humidity of the slabs.
• OSB is much more easily amenable to any type of processing, unlike plywood, which can be destroyed if handled carelessly.

However, according to some indicators, plywood is still ahead of OSB panels.

These include:

• Less susceptibility to shrinkage and deformation during operation.
• Good fixation of fasteners in sheet layers.
• Possibility of creating designs of curved shapes.
• The best decorative qualities. This point applies to premium plywood, made from high-quality wood (birch, cedar). However, if there is decorative covering OSB boards are in no way inferior to plywood sheets in aesthetic appeal and ergonomics, and, on the contrary, may even surpass them in this parameter.

In general, it is quite difficult to answer which is better, plywood or OSB, since both of these materials have a mass undeniable advantages And positive qualities and deserve the highest marks in the field of quality.

Drywall or OSB: arguments in favor of use

The term "plasterboard" means a material used for various types finishing and consisting of plaster placed between two layers of cardboard.

Its main advantages:

• Low cost.
• Light weight.
  Ease of installation and subsequent finishing.
• Good breathability.
• Environmental Safety.

In comparison with OSB, you can notice that drywall has greater fragility, that is, it requires a more careful and careful attitude. However, due to its technical and physical characteristics, this material is best suited for interior decoration and has a much lower cost.

Thus, the question: “Which material is more profitable and promising: OSB, plywood or drywall?” can be called insignificant. Each of them has their own positive sides and areas of application.

For example, if we're talking about on the interior decoration of walls and ceilings in premises - the best option can become drywall consisting of natural components, excellent consumer qualities.

OSB boards and panels, due to their moisture resistance and affordable price – the best choice for frame-panel construction, in contrast to plywood, which, although it has the same set of characteristics, is somewhat more expensive.

As for the specifics of choosing these materials, the brand, manufacturer, thickness and dimensions are decisive. For example, when purchasing OSB, it is better to give preference to boards made in North America or Europe, which are of higher quality and contain a minimum amount of harmful impurities.

A few more words about OSB boards:

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Which is better - OSB or plasterboard: comparison of gypsum and particle boards

Are you choosing structural finishing materials and don’t know which is cheaper and better? I bring to your attention an overview of the characteristics of gypsum and particle boards, which are indispensable when performing home renovations. After reading the review, you can decide which of the listed materials is suitable and which is not.

Review of structural finishing materials

The category of structural finishing materials includes sheet gypsum and wood products, with which you can build dividing partitions, cover walls, ceilings, etc. with your own hands.

Illustrations	Description of construction materials
	Drywall. This environmentally friendly material consists of a gypsum plate covered with thick cardboard on both sides. Depending on the composition of the gypsum layer and the processing of the cardboard, gypsum fiber sheets (GVL), plasterboard sheets (GKL), etc. are distinguished.
	Oriented Strand Board (OSB or OSB). OSB board consists of medium- and large-sized chips, pressed in a resinous binder into rectangular sheets. There are three classes of OSB with differences in structure density and, as a consequence, strength.
	Particle board (chipboard). Chipboard is sheets pressed from small shavings and sawdust in a resinous binder. Due to the small chip size, the finished product is characterized high density and greater weight compared to OSB.
	Multilayer plywood sheets. This is the most environmentally friendly and visually attractive material of all the listed wood products. Plywood is made from natural wood veneer glued together with a resin-based binder. If the question is which is more profitable, plywood or drywall, then the latter option costs half as much.

Characteristics of gypsum sheets

The prices in the article are current in the summer of 2017.

Gypsum sheets on the market are presented in three standard sizes: 2000×1200 mm, 2500×1200 mm and 3000×1200 mm. The material is also divided into ordinary (GKL), moisture-resistant (GKLV) and fire-resistant plasterboard (GKLO).

Illustrations	Application
	Laying dry screed. Special gypsum sheets with a thickness of 15-20 mm are laid, as in the photo, on expanded clay backfill. This technology was developed by Knauf and is used in many countries around the world when arranging residential premises. Price: from 300 rub. per sheet 1200×600 mm.
	Cladding of walls and slopes. When finishing walls and assembling partitions, the thickest sheets are used: 12.5 mm. The cladding is carried out on a supporting frame, which traditionally contains heat and sound insulation. Price: from 230 rub. per sheet 2500×1200 mm.
	Ceiling cladding. For such purposes, a plasterboard sheet with a thickness of 9.5 mm is used. Installation is carried out on a suspended lathing. Price: from 250 rub. per sheet 2500×1200 mm.
	Arch trim. For such purposes, the thinnest sheet with a thickness of 6.5 mm is used. The small thickness of the sheet is due to the fact that the strip of drywall has to be bent. Price: from 300 rub. per sheet 2500×1200 mm.
	Installation of partitions. For the construction of partitions in residential premises it is recommended to use tongue-and-groove slabs or drywall. In the case of plasterboard, installation is carried out on a frame; in the case of tongue-and-groove slabs, you can do without a frame.

The use of sheet plasterboard is possible only in the interior, subject to normal humidity and normal air temperature.

Characteristics of particle boards

There are several types of oriented strand boards on sale, of which laminated or varnished OSB-2 boards can be used for interior decoration. For construction external walls OSB-4 is used in frame houses and for laying floors. OSB-3 boards are recommended for finishing rooms with high humidity. average price OSB-3: 200-300 rub. for 1m².

Illustrations	Application
	Floor covering. When laying a floor, tongue-and-groove particle board is used in much the same way as plasterboard is used when installing a dry screed. To connect the floor fragments, a fastening recess is made along their perimeter.
	Wall covering. For these purposes, only laminated OSB with a low degree of toxic substance emission are used. The use of such cladding is advisable in utility rooms and temporary residence facilities (cabins, resort houses, workshops, etc.).
	Floor covering. Using OSB, you can not only sheathe the ceiling, but also veneer the ceiling in frame house.
	Construction of partitions and load-bearing walls. Load-bearing walls are sheathed with OSB in frame houses, and they are built according to the same principle interior partitions. The walls covered with OSB are covered with lining.

Comparing both materials

• Scope of application. Both plasterboard and particleboard products are used in a similar way, but OSB can be used for exterior cladding of a house, subject to subsequent DSP finishing or similar mixtures.
• Compatibility with finishing materials. Both drywall and OSB can be painted and wallpapered only after preliminary puttying. Unlike preparing gypsum boards, puttying OSB is a more labor-intensive process.
• Environmental Safety. Drywall is environmentally friendly as it does not contain toxins or carcinogens. OSB contains resins that release environment phenol vapor. In order to reduce phenol emissions, the surface of particle boards is laminated, varnished or painted. That is, you can use gypsum plasterboard and OSB, but only with additional finishing.
• Moisture resistance. Both materials are not initially designed for contact with moist air. But the range of manufacturers includes gypsum and particle boards that are resistant to moisture.

Let's try to draw a conclusion. Both gypsum and wood boards will find their buyer, just as both materials are indispensable for correct use. If you choose a material for interior decoration, taking into account the pros and cons of drywall, I still recommend plasterboard. Why?

• Firstly, the price of drywall, even taking into account the purchase of related materials, is lower.
• Secondly, the instructions for working with gypsum plasterboard are simpler than using particle board.
• Thirdly, using gypsum boards, you can create complex architectural forms, which, in principle, is impossible using OSB.

Let's sum it up

Now you know which construction materials are ideal for cladding walls, ceilings and for laying screeds in the interior. If you have any questions, I recommend watching the video in this article.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

It is difficult to imagine the interior decoration of a house without the use of plasterboard sheets (GKL). This material allows you to quickly create perfectly flat or arched surfaces at minimal cost. In our article we present step-by-step instructions on how to work with drywall correctly. After this, you can immediately begin repairs.

Design selection

So, gypsum board cladding allows you to quickly create a smooth surface for painting or wallpapering.

There are two ways to attach gypsum boards to a load-bearing wall:

• fastening directly to the wall (ceiling),
• installation on the frame.

The first option is used when you have a smooth and solid wall, but its surface is difficult to further finish. For example, masonry made of foam concrete. Of course it can be plastered. But this is time-consuming, labor-intensive, and there is a risk that cracks will appear. It is much easier to glue plasterboard onto the wall. For gluing, a solution prepared from a special dry mixture is used (the same mixtures are usually used for filling joints between gypsum boards). detailed instructions is on the package.

In a frame house, OSB or plywood can serve as the basis for fastening gypsum boards. But these materials are very difficult to paint: even from under the wallpaper the seams between the slabs are visible.

A much better base for finishing would be gypsum board. If the walls are smooth, then it is attached with self-tapping screws directly to wood boards. To even out small differences, use fiberboard or cardboard pads.

When is mounting on a frame used?

• if you need to level walls and corners,
• if you need to hide communications under the casing (heating pipes, electrical wiring, etc.)
• when you need to build a light partition.

Mounting on a frame has its disadvantages. Firstly, space is lost (minimum 4 cm on each wall); secondly, the structure turns out to be more unsteady, and emptiness is felt under the skin.

Sometimes gypsum boards are attached to the frame in two layers to make the cladding more massive and reliable.

Material selection

Drywall comes in different brands.

• sheets for finishing dry rooms, marked - gypsum board
• moisture resistant - gypsum plasterboard
• fire-resistant - GKLO.

All sheets have standard width- 120 cm (it is rare to find sheets 60 cm wide). The length may vary and is selected depending on the height of the room. GKL is attached mainly with vertical seams.

On sale you can find gypsum boards of different thicknesses, mainly 9.5 mm and 12.5 mm. Thin sheets are usually used on ceilings and when attached to walls without a frame. Thick ones are attached to the frame when covering walls and when installing partitions.

Gypsum fiber sheets (GVL) are often sold next to drywall. They are denser, more durable and more expensive. They are used where particularly durable cladding is required.

GCRs differ from each other and in the type of edges. They can be straight or rounded, and the sheet can also become narrower at the edge.

If the sheathing is done in two layers, choose a straight edge without tapering for the bottom layer.

If you are going to putty the seams and simply paint the rest of the sheet surface (an economical option), then choose a semicircular tapered edge.

If you intend to putty the entire surface of the gypsum board using reinforcing mesh, then an edge without narrowing will do.

But still, the narrowed edge will allow you to make the most durable seam between the sheets. These are the sheets that are most often found on sale.

Frame type

The frame can be assembled from special metal profiles or from wooden blocks.

Here are the main properties of a metal frame:

• elements have correct geometric shapes and standard sizes,
• T-shaped and cross-shaped connections are made reliably using special connectors,
• the frame does not react in any way to changes in humidity, does not corrode,
• work can only be carried out at temperatures above +18 degrees; due to strong temperature changes, tension zones appear in the frame, clicks may be heard, surface deformations may appear,
• the metal frame transmits vibrations very well, in the area of ​​doors and window openings Reinforcement of the structure with wooden blocks is required.

Now let's look at the wooden frame:

• it's hard to find perfectly straight ones wooden blocks,
• wood can change its shape with changes in humidity,
• the tree may suffer from fungi and wood-boring insects; treatment with bioprotective chemicals is required,
• wood does not react to temperature changes, installation and operation can be carried out without looking at the thermometer,
• it is difficult to make reliable T-shaped and cross-shaped connections in the same plane; It is better to make such connections with an overlap, which will increase the thickness of the structure,
• The self-tapping screw holds much better in wood than in metal. The risk that the gypsum board will fall off wooden frame, reduced to zero.

In general, as you understand, best frame– these are metal profiles reinforced with wooden blocks :). This design should be done in the most critical places:

• near doors and windows,
• for finishing with ceramic tiles on the entire wall plane,
• in rooms where it is planned to install a suspended ceiling, you need at least top part metal profiles, insert wooden blocks. Only in this case will it be possible to securely attach the mounting profile to the walls suspended ceilings. Before puttingtying the walls, in this case, it is advisable to make an exact diagram of the frame, so that you can then easily find places for fastening,
• on walls where it is planned to mount massive hanging furniture or equipment.

The procedure for assembling the frame and covering it plasterboard sheets are described in detail in the manufacturers' instructions.

Seam putty

This is a very important stage. The use of drywall is often justified precisely because the technology allows you to create a perfectly flat and monolithic surface, with invisible seams.

If the frame was made with high quality, then after attaching the sheets we will get a flat plane; only the seams and screw heads will spoil it.

Self-tapping screws are the easiest to deal with. Their heads should be insulated by about one millimeter. We cover this “hole” with gypsum putty - and that’s it.

With seams, things are a little more complicated. Most of the vertical seams will be formed by “native”, that is, specially narrowed edges of the sheets. But in some places the sheets may meet with cut edges. They will give you the most trouble. These edges will need to be chamfered at approximately 45 degrees. It’s better to do this directly on the wall, otherwise you risk breaking off the edges.

After this operation, you need to use a slightly damp brush to remove all plaster crumbs. Now you can start filling the seams.

To reinforce seams, it is better to choose paper tape rather than sickle mesh. Serpyanka is good because its thickness determines the layer of putty. But we don't need this on the seams. The putty layer is specified by narrowing the edge of the sheet.

The procedure for filling joints looks something like this:

1) cut ribbons from a special perforated paper tape to the required length and lower them into a bucket of water.
2) Fill the seam between the gypsum boards with putty. The narrowed edges of the gypsum board should be covered with a layer of putty, but the putty should not completely compensate for the narrowing of the edge.
3) Take the wet paper tape and press it with a spatula into the layer of putty. It is very important that there are no air bubbles left under the tape.
4) Apply a leveling layer of putty on top of the tape flush with the main plane of the sheet.

Thus, sheets with a tapered edge allow you to create an ideal plane and an invisible seam. Where the edges were cut, it will not be possible to make an ideal plane. After gluing the reinforcing tape, we will have a small hump. Therefore, you need to try to have as few cut edges as possible.

Small defects in the seams can be eliminated using fine sandpaper after the putty has dried. The main thing is not to damage the cardboard on the gypsum board or the reinforcing tape.

To putty joints and corners, if possible, it is better to buy ready-to-use putty in cans rather than a dry mixture. Dry mixture solutions are quite capricious. They need to be prepared almost on a pharmacy scale. In addition, they lose their properties within an hour. What you don’t have time to spend, throw it away.

Corner finishing and surface filling

Finishing internal corner not much different from ordinary joint putty. It is reinforced with paper tape. And here outside corner- more complex design.

For its reinforcement, perforated metal corner.

You need to go over the corner with a coarse brush before use. sandpaper. This way the putty will stick to it better.

The order of work is approximately this:
1) Check the verticality of the corner using a level.
2) Apply putty to the corner.
3) Press a metal corner into the putty. At the same time, if necessary, align the angle vertically. In this way, you can correct small deviations from the vertical, no more than five millimeters.
4) Let the putty dry under the corner.
5) Apply putty to the wings of the corner and glue reinforcing tape on top.

After this, you can proceed to puttying the surface of the entire wall. The operating procedure is approximately this:
1) Apply the putty to the surface with a fine-tooth spatula,
2) Press the reinforcing mesh into the putty using a flat spatula.
3) Remove excess putty with a spatula and smooth out any unevenness.
4) Remove small grooves from the edges of the spatula with sandpaper after the putty has dried.