What to do after picking strawberries in the beds. Caring for strawberries after fruiting

In mid-August, the last remontant varieties of strawberries and wild strawberries, growing in open ground. Many gardeners miss the fact that after harvesting it is necessary to continue to care for the plant, otherwise next year the fruits may become smaller, and the bushes may be infected with pests and diseases.

Strawberries after harvesting what to do with the bush

Knowing when to prune strawberries after harvest is fairly simple as there is a second wave of fresh foliage growth. Old greenery fades. Sometimes redness of the cuttings is observed, which indicates the bush’s desire to get rid of the leaves on its own. To help the plant, gardeners remove them. Typically, strawberries are pruned no later than July 20th. Otherwise, negative consequences for the kidneys are possible (damage during plant care, disease).

Strawberries begin to actively produce whiskers in August. The first two rosettes (the shoots with which it reproduces) can be left, the rest can be cut off. The remaining rosettes are buried in drops without cutting the tendrils that connect them to the mother bush.

At the moment when all the strawberries are harvested, pruning of leaves and tendrils is done using pruners or scissors. This is necessary to prepare the plant for winter: it will not waste its energy on feeding the foliage and will provide itself with a supply of microelements to survive the cold.

Beginning gardeners often ask about when to prune strawberries after fruiting. It would be right to start cleaning on the second or third day, especially if the plant is sick. This tactic will help reduce the risk of infection occurring or spreading. healthy plants various diseases.

It is considered correct to prune as close to the base of the bush as possible, since disease spores can persist even on cuttings. The tool must have sharp and clean blades so as not to cause the spread of infections. Do not tear off the tendrils and leaves with your hands - this can damage the roots.

How to mow strawberries in summer and why you need to do it

If novice gardeners doubt whether they need to prune strawberries after harvesting, then experienced gardeners are confident in the need for the procedure.

Pruning strawberries after fruiting is a special mowing method, which has its own characteristics:

• a high increase in yield is possible if you mow the foliage on the second or third day after harvesting to prevent the spread of possible diseases throughout the area;
• mowing and cleaning up the removed leaves will help protect the plant and the entire plantation from pests and diseases;
• Immediately after mowing, the bushes are fertilized and watered.

For young plants, it is better to carry out individual pruning with special attention using scissors or pruning shears. Bushes from three years old can be treated with a scythe or a trimmer with a fishing line (you need to work at low speed), especially if you do not intend to get new shoots from them for propagation. Mown three- and four-year-old strawberries after harvest will certainly delight you with healthy fruits in the next season.

Processing strawberries after harvest

Both during the period of ripening of berries and after harvesting, it is important that the soil in the garden bed is constantly moist - this will ensure fast growth young foliage. Knowing what to do with your strawberries after harvest will help increase the plant's fruit production the following season.

After cutting, you need to use warm water to irrigate the bushes. Watering should be done at sunset or in the morning to avoid sunburn. After irrigation, the soil is loosened and mulched. If you constantly water strawberries, despite the lack of fruits, then by spring they will produce much more flower buds.

What to do with strawberries after fruiting: protection from insects

Every experienced gardener knows how to treat strawberries after trimming the leaves to protect them from insects. The first plant prevention is carried out during the growing season before flowering. When all the strawberries have been harvested, processing after fruiting is carried out again, no later than mid-August.

Usually, the drug "Aktelikom" is used to protect plants (15-20 ml per 10 liters of water, if there are a lot of pests, the procedure can be repeated after 8-10 days). The product will effectively cope with the strawberry transparent mite that eats young leaves. Spraying with iodine solution (5-10 drops per 10 liters of water) will protect you from weevils.

Treatment of strawberries after harvest against pests includes complex fertilizer with urea in the proportion of 30 g per 10 liters of liquid or infusion: 2 tbsp. l. nitroammophoska, 10 liters of water and 1 cup of ash.

Many people are interested in how to feed strawberries after trimming the leaves without using expensive products. Nettle is used for this. It is poured into a bucket of water and left for a week. Water the bushes after harvesting, mowing and during the formation of the bush to protect it from pests.

Processing strawberries after fruiting: disease prevention

After harvesting, as well as to reduce disease incidence, it is better to use Fitosporin (against fungal diseases in the proportion of 1 tablespoon of liquid solution per 10 liters of water per 2 sq.m. area) or Fitop (prepared similarly).

How to feed strawberries after harvest

Complex fertilizer with mineral substances ("Shungite", "Elegy", Bui fertilizers "For strawberries", etc.) is considered universal. However, feeding with organic matter also gives good result. Therefore, having chosen how to fertilize strawberries after harvesting: manure or legume siderites, start cultivating the land.

How to process strawberries after fruiting and pruning:

• remove weeds and loosen the soil;
• water the beds with organic matter dissolved in water (mullein, horse manure);
• mulch the area with peat or pine needles;
• water through mulch.

How to treat strawberries after pruning to set flower buds

You can use universal fertilizers (for example, Ammofoska, Nutriflex S), which are available in an assortment in any specialized store. Usually the solution is made in the proportion of 10 grams of product to 10 liters of water. But you can feed the berries with a mixture of nitrogen substances and ammonium nitrate.

Strawberry leaves live for about two months. When they wither, various spots appear on them: faded white, red and even scarlet. These are signs of aging foliage and the development of a variety of diseases on it.

There is no point in thinking about whether it is necessary to cut strawberries after fruiting, since it is the cutting of strawberry (strawberry) leaves that helps protect future fruits from diseases.

Pruning and processing strawberries after fruiting

Knowing how strawberries are processed after harvest is very important. After 3-4 years of growing berries in one place, it is necessary to fertilize the soil with compost, rotted manure, and mulch the soil with sawdust and ash. This will help cover the strawberry roots visible from the soil. For those who are interested in how to care for strawberries after harvesting, it is worth noting that mulching and hilling will ensure good development roots.

Bottom line

Using tips on how to properly process strawberries after harvest will help you protect the plant from infections and prepare it for winter. Keep an eye on the bushes, provide them with proper care and trim them after fruiting has finished, as a result, you will have a large and abundant harvest next year.

Leaves by season

Leaves garden strawberries are updated three times a year: in spring, summer and autumn. They work actively from 40 to 80 days. Those that grow in the spring feed the bushes from April to June inclusive, and then, as they grow old, they gradually die off. After fruiting, spring ones are replaced by summer ones.

The former are important for the fruiting of the current year, the latter for the formation of flower buds and the accumulation of nutrients for the future. Then the so-called autumn leaves that go into winter. With good and stable snow cover, most of them remain until spring. Each gardener must decide for himself whether to mow old leaves or not. Much depends on the condition of the beds and how much time you are willing to devote to caring for strawberries.

I mow them down because I think they carry a lot of infection. But not at the end of summer, but right away

after harvest. Timely removal of leaves from the plantation (before spores fly) significantly reduces the damage from diseases and also prevents re-infection. It’s also important for me that this technique greatly suppresses mustache growth. I don’t mow leaves only on strawberry beds in the first year of use.

The procedure itself does not take much time: we take a benzoko-su and mow the bed at a height of 5-7 cm. In this case, the old leaves are almost completely removed and neither the horns nor the growing points are damaged.

I usually send the mown mass to the compost. I water the strawberry beds well and feed them with a solution of chicken manure (1:15). Strawberries are good

reacts to it and immediately begins to actively recover. For feeding, you can use any complex fertilizers (15-20 g/sq.m), it is better if they contain microelements.

No bare roots!

A good technique is hilling strawberry bushes, especially from the 3rd year of life. I also do it after mowing the leaves, combining it with loosening the soil after watering and liquid fertilizing. At the same time, I make sure that the heart is not covered with earth.

At the end of August, I pour a 3-4 cm layer of mulch around each bush. I use leaf humus for this. It serves not only as fertilizer, but also as insulation for the winter, and in the spring it prevents the roots from being exposed.

Strawberry drones - out!

Weed varieties are often found in strawberry plantings.

They either do not produce a harvest at all, or they produce low - small and non-marketable berries. Such bushes, not burdened with a harvest, devote all their strength to reproduction. Like weeds, they suppress the large-fruited variety. Therefore, it is important to notice the appearance of these weeds in time and destroy them.

On a note

Removing strawberry leaves is indicated for early and mid-season varieties. It is undesirable to mow the leaves of late ones; they may not have time to grow them before frost, which will significantly reduce the yield in next year. It is also not used for remontant and neutral-day varieties of strawberries, which will have a second fruiting in the fall, lasting until late autumn.

Practical advice

Do not leave overripe or damaged berries on the beds. Usually they are the source of contamination of plantings by seedlings.

How often to renew a strawberry plantation

I use fruit-bearing strawberry bushes for no more than three years, not counting the year of planting. I usually update my plantation no later than the second half of August. Young rosettes planted at this time have time to form not only well before winter developed roots and leaves, but also in short-day conditions to lay flower buds.

I plant strawberries in the garden bed in one line. In the first year of growing on bushes, I remove all the whiskers, except for one or two. In the second year I repeat the same thing. I direct young sockets to free places. The most productive bushes grow from these self-rooted ones. The result is long ribbons of strawberries. If I don’t plan to replace varieties, then I use the rosettes of the second year to create new beds. If there is another planting material I remove all the formed mustache after harvesting the second harvest. In the 3rd and 4th year of cultivation, I remove all the whiskers.

Themselves with a mustache!

To prevent my favorite strawberry varieties from degenerating, during fruiting I identify the most productive bushes, and then I take the mustache for planting a future plantation only from these “mothers”. I separate the rosettes immediately after rooting and plant them in a separate bed. Those that were kept for 10-12 hours in a zircon solution (1 ml per 2 liters of water) before planting are very well accepted.

Note

The most powerful rosettes in the garden usually come from bushes that are lightly loaded with berries. In those that bear fruit abundantly, they grow more modestly. Therefore, to obtain high-quality seedlings, it is better to plant queen cells in a separate bed and remove their flower stalks. Or take sockets only from the intended copies.

Who mutilates the strawberry bushes

Strawberry transparent mite is the most dangerous pest strawberries Most often it damages leaves, especially young ones.

As a result, they curl and acquire a yellowish-oily tint, the flower stalks become dwarf, and the berries become small. The more pests, the uglier the bushes. Warm and humid weather promotes tick reproduction.

It is good to use an infusion against strawberry mites onion peel: 200 g pour 10 liters of warm water and leave for 4-5 days, then strain the infusion and use for spraying.

You can prepare an infusion from the onion itself: chop 100 g of onions, place in a tightly sealed container, add 10 liters of water and infuse for 6-7 hours.

Another reliable method: weed the affected plantation, removing excess tendrils and diseased leaves (they need to be removed from the plants along with the petioles; it is at the base of the leaf petioles that adult female mites overwinter), then generously sprinkle the bushes with an infusion of crushed garlic 0.5 kg pour 3 l of water, use 300 g of extract per watering can.

After harvesting, they carry out chemical treatments. After mowing the leaves, the plantation is sprayed with one of the preparations: Fufanon, Kemifos, Fitoverm.

You can finally get rid of the pest by planting beds in a new place. Before planting, all seedlings (having previously washed the roots from the soil and tied them into bunches) are immersed in a container of water heated to 45’C.

Keep in it for 13-15 minutes, after which the sockets are immediately cooled in cold water.

The first two weeks the strawberry plantings will look ugly, but then they will become noticeably brighter.

N. SOLONOVICH, scientist agronomist

I have come across different opinions about whether it is necessary to cut off the tendrils and leaves of garden strawberries after they have fruited. Please advise what to do?

D. Dymova Lipetsk region

Post-harvest period requires special attention, because it is very important in the life of strawberries. At this time, the growth of leaves, horns, roots resumes, flower buds are laid, i.e. next year's harvest is being formed. Therefore, timely and high-quality care of plants is now necessary (weeding, fertilizing, watering, removing tendrils, loosening the soil, controlling pests and pathogens).

When the strawberry crop is harvested, it is best to remove the tendrils from the bushes so that they do not deplete the mother plant and do not interfere with the formation of flower buds. However, the tendrils with rosettes with which you are going to propagate the variety must be left, and remember that the first and second rosettes located closest to the mother plant are considered the strongest.

Whether to remove leaves along with the tendrils is a controversial question.

In the southern regions, removing leaves immediately after harvesting berries - agrotechnical technique, which increases productivity. This is due to the fact that in the south the post-harvest period is long and favorable for plant development.

If you trim the leaves before July 15 and feed and water the plants well, leaves and roots will begin to actively form and flower buds will begin to form. By autumn, such plants will develop strong above-ground and root systems, which will have a positive effect on next year’s harvest.

In the northern regions, mowing strawberry leaves in this period gives negative results, since the plants do not have time to prepare well for next year’s harvest. So in middle lane This technique should be carried out only if the plants are severely damaged by the strawberry mite.

Then mow and burn the leaves as quickly as possible, immediately after picking the berries. If the strawberries are not damaged by the mite, then the leaves should not be removed after harvesting in the central regions of the non-chernozem zone, otherwise the plants will not have time to develop sufficient leaf apparatus and lay flower buds before the onset of cold weather.

But in the old leaves and stems of strawberries it accumulates a large number of soluble sugars and starch, thanks to which plants successfully form flower buds, winter well and produce a high yield the next year.

L. PODLESNAYA, agronomist

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Every gardener loves to collect large harvests strawberries But its cultivation does not end there. In this article you can find out what actions are necessary to prepare strawberries for the new harvest season.

Many gardeners who grow strawberries on their plots will not be able to answer how strawberries develop after harvesting and what to do after fruiting. But proper care of strawberries after picking the berries becomes the basis good harvest next year. It is necessary to carry out preparatory activities back in the fall.

Strawberry

Strawberries begin to bloom and bear fruit very early. Around the middle of the season, the first berries begin to ripen. However, during this time, the plants simply would not be able to obtain all the necessary substances in sufficient quantities to form sweet and large berries.

A natural question may arise here: how is such a harvest formed? The future harvest begins to form at the end of summer of the previous year. As soon as the harvest of fragrant berries is harvested, new buds begin to form, flowers grow and mustaches grow. It is very important to take care of your strawberries at this time.

Please note that different varieties of strawberries will ripen differently. The majority of varieties finish bearing fruit at the beginning of summer. However, the most late varieties remontant strawberries can ripen until mid-August. Therefore, the timing of events may shift.

Mulching with straw

Trimming

After the end of the fruiting period, the foliage on the strawberry bushes begins to die off and be replaced by new ones. Thus, the strawberries themselves get rid of old leaves after harvesting, what should a gardener do (video) in this case? It is necessary to help the plants get rid of excess old leaves and trim them.

Reasons to get rid of leaves:

• Old leaves can no longer participate in the process of photosynthesis as effectively. They require much more nutrients to maintain them than the benefits they can bring. If the leaves begin to turn yellow and die due to their old age, then you should help the plants and carefully remove them.
• Leaves need to be removed if they have been affected by diseases or mites. Such leaves must not only be trimmed, but also burned to completely destroy the infection. Tools that will be used to trim leaves must be disinfected so as not to spread the infection to all plants.

After this procedure, it would be appropriate to feed the strawberries so that the strawberry roots have time to gain nutrients before the winter period.

During this same period, the mustache begins to actively form. When processing strawberries after harvest, it is important to know what to do with the mustache. Strawberry whiskers are a means of reproduction. If there is no need for this, then you can cut them all off. Otherwise, 1-2 best copies are left. They dig in carefully.

It is not advisable to start trimming your mustache. In this case, all the nutrients necessary for the formation of new buds will be spent on the development of mustaches and rosettes, which will still be trimmed.

Treatment of strawberry bushes should be carried out constantly, but the bulk of the work occurs in the period after fruiting. If after such treatment the strawberry bushes are completely without leaves, you should not panic. Until the coming winter period she will have time to grow new foliage.

Weed removal

There is nothing complicated in loosening the soil, although there are some features that should be taken into account when carrying out this agricultural activity.

• The soil between the bushes is loosened thoroughly, but carefully and not deeply. The main part of the roots is located at a depth of 10 cm. It is necessary to loosen so as not to affect the roots.
• When loosening, you should lightly hill up the soil so that the side roots are underground.
• When caring for strawberries after harvest, the question may arise, what to do with weeds. Weeding and weed removal is very convenient to carry out simultaneously with loosening.

Feeding

During flowering and fruiting, it is not recommended to apply nitrogen-containing fertilizers. They promote the formation of new foliage. And this is not very good for ripening berries. But after fruiting is completed, everything changes dramatically, and fertilizers containing nitrogen are especially necessary for strawberries.

Fertilizing strawberries

Watering

Before the onset of winter, watering should be carried out regularly. Watering is very important for caring for strawberries after fruiting; what to do next and how to water correctly can be found below.

• The soil must be kept moist. This can be ensured by regular watering.
• Frequent and surface watering do not give the desired result. It is better to water strawberries rarely, but abundantly. Heavy watering every 7-10 days is considered optimal.
• To protect the soil from drying out quickly, it should be mulched with peat or use non-woven covering material.
• Watering should be done in the morning or evening, otherwise the strawberry leaves may get burned.

Carrying out proper irrigation after harvesting will have a positive impact on the quality of the crop that can be obtained in the next harvest year.

Treatment for diseases and insects

Diseases and insects can cause enormous damage to strawberry plantings. In some cases, this can lead to the complete destruction of all plants. Therefore, it is necessary to treat plantings annually against the most common pests and diseases. It is better to do this after harvesting so as not to disrupt the flowering and ripening of the berries. How signs of disease appear on strawberries after harvest, and what to do (video) to combat them, can be found below.

Diseases

Powdery mildew

• Powdery mildew. The disease occurs quite often and manifests itself in the form of white plaque. Fungal spores overwinter in the affected parts of plants and are carried by the wind when favorable conditions. May lead to slower development of berries and further drying.
• Gray rot. A small spot of gray or brown color begins to appear on the berries, on which a gray mossy coating then forms. Such berries begin to rot very quickly and become unsuitable for food. On foliage such signs are much less common.
• Brown spot. The fungus develops on old leaves from mid-summer. A sign of the disease is formation brown spots. The fungus negatively affects the formation of flower buds, which can have a bad effect on the future harvest.
• Late blight rot. Brown spots appear on the berries, which gradually spread to the entire surface of the berries. The berries themselves acquire a bitter taste and fall off. Dark green spots of heterogeneous shapes form on the foliage.
• White spotting. It manifests itself in the appearance of brown spots on any part of the strawberry bush. Later the spots turn white. The fungus reduces the yield of bushes on which it has managed to develop.

Pests

Pests can cause the destruction of the entire crop. They easily overwinter in plants, and in the spring they begin to feed on their juices. Therefore, it is very important to know the signs of their appearance on strawberries after harvest, and what to do to get rid of these pests.

Spider mite

• Nematodes. Small and poorly distinguishable worms that usually live in the soil. They reproduce very quickly. They stick to accessible parts of the plant, feeding on its juices and poisoning it with their enzymes. They are very difficult to remove, and in advanced cases it is necessary to change the soil.
• Strawberry mite. Enough small insect. Overwinters at the base of leaves. Mite larvae feed on plant sap, after which they become wrinkled and yellow, and then die off completely.
• Strawberry-raspberry weevil. A small black beetle, only 3 mm long. They overwinter under the remains of leaves. With the onset of warmth, young individuals begin to feed on leaves and buds. As flowering begins, female beetles begin to lay eggs in the buds.
• Small black mower. Small black bugs, up to 5 mm long. They overwinter underground, where they lay eggs. The larvae prefer to feed on roots, and the young beetles prefer to feed on leaves.

Prevention

The best way to protect your crop from pests and insects is to take preventive measures.

The structure of a strawberry bush

• Growing resistant varieties will help protect plants from diseases and pests.
• It is not for nothing that compliance with the rules of crop rotation is considered fundamental in gardening. You can grow strawberries in one place for no more than 2 years in a row. Then it should be transplanted to another place.
• Most strawberry diseases are fungal. Therefore, after harvesting, the area can be treated with fungicides for preventive purposes. This is strongly recommended if signs of disease have been detected
• The use of insecticides will help destroy most insects that live on plants and feed on their juices. This procedure must be carried out after harvesting so as not to interfere with flowering and not to turn the berries into an inedible poison.
• Weeds often harbor pests, so they need to be removed from the area as soon as possible.

Compliance with these simple rules will help prepare strawberry bushes for winter, and in the spring the efforts spent will pay off in the form of a rich harvest. Knowing how strawberries develop after harvest and what to do (video) after removing all the berries, you can develop the optimal plan for growing these plants.

Ph.D., Art. scientific co-workers Federal Scientific Center for Horticulture named after I.V. Michurina, scientific secretary of the Academy of Non-Traditional and rare plants, member of the All-Russian Society of Genetics and Breeders of the Russian Federation

Many people think that once they have harvested strawberry beds, you can relax until spring. However, in reality there lies big mistake, because as soon as the garden strawberry begins to bear fruit and produces its last berries, it immediately gets to work and begins laying down next year’s harvest.

You should not put off the fight for the future harvest; you should start it immediately after harvesting the berries and continue until the strawberry bushes are covered with a thick layer of snow.

What to do first?

The first thing you need to do is remove all the old mulch layer that was on the beds; this could be straw or sawdust. Considering that diseases and pests could easily have settled there during the season, the mulch must be removed and destroyed outside the site.

Next important stage- this is the fight against weeds, and it is better - immediately after watering or rain, when the weeds are easily weeded out by hand.

Another stage is loosening the soil; it normalizes both the air and water balance of the plants. However, it must be done carefully so that the fragile root system of strawberries is not injured. At the same time, you can carry out hilling of plants. It is advisable to hill up strawberries with loose, moist and nutritious soil in order for additional roots to form. But it is important to avoid dusting the “heart” of the plant.

After this, take a rake with thin and sparse teeth, clean out all the old leaves on the plants and burn them outside the site, because overwintering stages of pests and diseases can accumulate there.

Do not forget about periodic watering of the strawberry beds; it should be done as the soil dries out.

Strawberry plants also need fertilizing, and, of course, treatments against pests and diseases.

Let's take a closer look and start with removing leaves and tendrils, as well as a diagram for pruning strawberries.

You should definitely know that the renewal of leaf blades in garden strawberries usually occurs three times per growing season: in spring, summer and autumn. Scientists have found that one strawberry leaf blade lives for about two months, then it ages, dries out and either falls off or remains hanging on the plant.

The most important thing for strawberry plants is the spring regrowth of leaves; this is the key to successful fruiting. As soon as the harvest is over, it starts next stage the formation of leaf blades, which is associated with the laying of flower buds and the storage of nutrients from next year’s harvest. Foliage formed in autumn period time, serves mostly for the complete overwintering of garden strawberry plants.

How do you know when leaves need to be removed? Usually, various kinds of spots form on them; they can be whitish, scarlet or red. During the process of natural dying, strawberry leaves absorb a lot of nutrients from the plant and can even cause its depletion. In this regard, after about 20 days after fruiting has completed, the old leaves must be removed - you can comb them off, you can cut them out.

During the same period, it is quite possible to remove the mustache, unless, of course, they are needed to start a future young plantation.

Removing foliage will not only slow down the outflow of nutrients from the plant to nowhere, but will also rid the bushes of possible pests and diseases that can accumulate on the foliage.

Naturally, all strawberry foliage removed in one way or another must be removed from the site.

If the strawberry plantations are such that there is no way to manually remove old leaves, you can use mowers and trimmers, the main thing is that the mowing height is 5-7 cm, so as not to damage the growing point, the so-called “ heart" of the plant.

Remember that it is appropriate to mow or otherwise remove old foliage if the bushes are more than 2 years old, but on young plants it is permissible to cut out either diseased or dried leaves. After removing the leaves, the soil under the plants must be carefully loosened and a bucket of water poured for each square meter.

About watering

A very often asked question is whether garden strawberries, which have completely finished bearing fruit, need watering. We answer - of course, it is necessary, during this period the next year's harvest is laid and the soil must be in a slightly moist state. After fruiting ends, strawberry plants begin to lay generative buds and develop root system and so on. The frequency of watering should be at least once a week, and it is better to water in the evening at the root, but not by sprinkling. After watering, be sure to loosen the soil to maintain normal air and water exchange and prevent the formation of a crust on the soil surface. It’s great if after watering you have the opportunity to mulch the soil; for this you can use a 2 cm layer of humus.

Speaking of mulching, it allows you to make the soil looser, prevents the formation of a soil crust, inhibits the growth of weeds, and if humus is used as mulch, it will serve additional food and improve soil fertility.

Not only humus can be used as mulch; sawdust, straw, dry grass, compost and even pine needles are suitable here.

Feeding

With the end of fruiting, the plants are as weakened as possible, because they have devoted all their strength to the formation of berries, so feeding is necessary, and not one-time, they need to be done three times.

• The first feeding is usually done in August, as soon as the old leaves are removed. At this time, nitrogen fertilizers, such as urea, come in very handy; a tablespoon of it should be diluted in 10 liters of water and this volume should be dissipated per 1 m2. This feeding will stimulate the growth of young plant leaves.
• After 14 days, it is permissible to make a second feeding, this time we recommend using organic fertilizers with the addition of superphosphate and potassium sulfate, 15 g per 1 m2. Keep in mind that superphosphate does not dissolve well; it should first be diluted in a liter of boiling water. This feeding stimulates the formation of flower buds in plants.
• The third fertilizing can be done in mid-September; at this time, a mullein solution will be a very successful fertilizer; it is applied in the amount of 200 g per 1 m2 of strawberry plantings.

In addition, the crop responds very well to ammophos fertilizer. Consumption rate - up to 30 grams per 1 m 2. Ammophoska should simply be scattered over the surface of the soil, having first dug it up and moistened it, and then sprinkle it with a little soil.

It is also permissible to water the plants with ammophoska solution, 20 g per 1 m2 of beds, during the first feeding.

Nitrophoska and nitroammofoska give good results for the second feeding; you only need a tablespoon of it per 1 m2.

Protection from pests and diseases

Is it worth fighting pests and diseases, since the harvest has already been harvested? Of course it's worth it. After removing old foliage, the plants need to be sprayed with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate.

If there is a weevil on strawberry plants, you need to treat with the drug “Taran” in the evening and strictly following the instructions on the package. This pest can also be controlled folk remedies- take 12 drops of ordinary medical iodine, dissolve in a bucket of water, and treat the plants in the evening, wetting the entire above-ground mass.

Sometimes strawberries are affected by the strawberry mite; drugs such as Fitoverm, Fufanon, Actellik, and Kemifos are effective against it.

Preparing for winter

Just before the cold weather, you need to weed out all the weeds, mulch the bushes with a 2 cm layer of humus, sprinkle leaves on top and place spruce paws to keep the leaves from scattering throughout the area. But before that, be sure to inspect all the bushes and be sure to remove all diseased and old leaves.

Remember - you cannot remove too much foliage. With a small number of leaf blades, plants may enter winter weakened, and even when covered, they may freeze.

Also inspect the bases of the bushes; if you notice bare roots, then they certainly need to be covered with nutritious, moist and loose soil, the main thing is not to cover the growing point.

As soon as real frosts arrive, you need to add dead wood and spruce branches to the strawberry beds to further “strengthen the structure.”

As you can see, caring for garden strawberries is simple, but very important, so you should not neglect it if next year you want to get a rich harvest of healthy early berries.