What persimmon wants: personal growing experience. Causes of persimmon shedding

But it’s worth trying to grow, as such an exotic persimmon tree will look very beautiful in the garden.

What lower temperature can a persimmon tree withstand? The "Rossiyanka" variety can withstand frost of -20 C. Next comes the “tamopan” variety - up to - 15 s, and the rest of the adult plants can survive - 10 s. Russian variety very actively restores shoots that were damaged by severe frosts and within a year will be able to bear fruit again
. On winter period Persimmon trunks should be tied with burlap, spruce branches or other insulating materials.
How to grow persimmons from seeds.
The first step is to germinate our seeds obtained from fresh persimmons. To do this, they need to be rinsed under water and placed 1-2 centimeters deep in a pot with damp soil. You can also do this using cotton wool; to do this, put persimmon grains in damp cotton wool, wrap them in cellophane film and put them in a warm place, maybe on a radiator if it’s winter. Sometimes you need to open the cellophane and moisten the cotton wool so that everything doesn’t dry out and become moldy. It is also advisable to keep the pot with the planted seed in a warm place and can cover it with film. Sometimes open the cellophane and add one and a half centimeters of soil. Just so you know, persimmon is heat-loving, it always needs a lot of light and warmth, so you shouldn’t keep it in the shade or in drafts.
The seeds sprout in 10-15 days. If there is no result, then don’t keep it anymore, new seeds and we repeat the procedure. If a sprout appears, the cellophane can and should be removed. If the seeds in the cotton wool have sprouted, they should be transplanted into a pot. Only if there is a persimmon seed left at the end of the sprout and it does not want to fall off on its own for several days (its leaves are tightly pinched), then it should be carefully removed by yourself, otherwise the plant will disappear. This can be done with a knife, scissors or needle. Attention! Only if it has become very boring to our tree, then you can spray it with warm water, wrap it in a bag and put it in a warm place all night. In the morning the bone will steam and be removed very easily.
Persimmon sprouts grow very quickly, so if several seeds have sprouted, then each small future tree should be transplanted into a separate spacious pot. The root system of this fruit is very active and if there is not enough space, the sprout will wither. Lack of substrate will lead to poor growth young tree and yellowing of leaves. So, don't skimp on good pot and the ground if you want to get a healthy and fast-growing tree.
Tree care.
A young tree in a pot should be acclimated to the sun little by little in the summer, otherwise the leaves may get burned and dry out. For this heat-loving plant It should be shaded a little in the first days, but this should be done by placing it on a balcony, window sill, or taking it out into the yard. Throughout the entire growing season of persimmon, it should be fed alternately with mineral and organic fertilizers twice a month.
With the onset of autumn in October - November, the tree needs to be moved to a room with a temperature of 7 to 30 C, maybe to the cellar, but not advisable, there will be no light there. To do this, you need to lay a layer of wet sawdust on the ground and systematically spray or top up the soil so that it does not dry out.
With the onset of March, you need to transplant the tree into a larger pot with new soil. Water well and place in a bright place.
Next, it’s time to form young seedlings into small trees. To do this, at a level of 0.4-0.5 meters, you should make a clothespin to branch the tree. Leaving 2-3 apical shoots, wait until they grow 30-40 cm, after which they are pinched to form second-order branches. Then again they leave 2-3 branches and so on and grow a round persimmon tree one and a half meters high. The first flowers can be seen only in the third or fourth year.
An already mature persimmon tree is replanted with the arrival of spring in the garden in a bright place protected from the wind. It should continue to be systematically and abundantly watered (but not flooded) and the leaves should be sprayed. Persimmons usually bloom in June. During the active growing season, the tree is fed mineral fertilizers twice a month with a minimum nitrogen composition.
In winter, persimmons are kept cool (on average - 5 degrees, but not colder than 10, otherwise many years of work will be wasted. You need to water them periodically with water at room temperature, and spray the leaves. But you should water them without fanaticism, otherwise the plant will wither. Persimmon fruits are not afraid of the cold , this even benefits them, since the tannin content decreases.
When does a tree begin to bear fruit? 3-4 years after grafting, the tree begins to bear fruit. If you grow persimmon from a fruit seed, you will have to wait from 5 to 7 years. If the tree is in a dry, constant indoor climate, then this period should be increased by another one or two years.
You need to feed the plant like everyone else: phosphorus, sodium, potassium and microelements from a well-balanced fertilizer or compost extract.

I would like to pay attention to the cultivation of Virginia persimmon varieties, and specifically the Mider (Meadr) variety, which grows in my home. In seven years, the tree gave our family three harvests, and before the first solid fruiting, for two years in a row it presented one seedless fruit, as if saying: “Don’t be discouraged, wait a little longer!”

The first significant harvest was obtained without the participation of a pollinator; Mider is self-fertile. After setting, the fruits fell off for a very long time, until the end of the second ten days of July.

I was afraid that everything would fall off, as in the two previous years, but when the fruits began to actively increase in mass and change color, it turned out that there were plenty of them.

Persimmons give birth regularly and are prone to harvest overload. All the ripened fruits were seedless; some contained black rudimentary seeds. The fruits, when fully ripe, were easily separated from the calyx and had a very pleasant taste.

When the Midera variety began to actively flower the following season, the hybrid dwarf pollinator (about 70 cm high) had only four flowers, but its efficiency turned out to be very high. All fruits had several seeds, which were in a kind of juicy bag.

Eating fruits with seeds was not easy: you had to either spit them out along with part of the pulp of the already not very large fruit, or suffer trying to remove the seeds. In addition, the fruits acquired an astringent taste, which persisted even after they reached ripeness - this is a significant disadvantage.

There were repeated frosts in the spring, which affected the pollinator. There were only a couple of flowers left on it, which fell off without fully opening. But still, half of the fruits on the tree (3 m tall) had seeds.

Seedless fruits formed on the branches of the lower tier. Ripe fruits with seeds again had an astringent taste.

Our advice:

In my experience, Meader, no matter how many of its trees there are in the garden, is best grown without a pollinator.

I can’t say that a fruit with seeds is noticeably larger than a seedless one; they are both small. And therefore, it is preferable to have a harvest of seedless fruits - they have better organoleptic qualities, they are more convenient to eat due to the absence of inedible particles.

When to land?

Since persimmon has been cultivated in Ukraine not so long ago and not very widely, there is not enough information about its agricultural technology. Each gardener independently, through experience, develops techniques that allow him to effectively propagate and grow this crop.

Many years of experience told my fellow countryman Vasily Kravchenko that it is better to buy seedlings in the fall and plant them in the spring. In the fall, they are only dug in at an angle and covered.

The fact is that persimmon seedlings are sold grafted. This operation is carried out in May; before digging up for sale, the cultural scion does not have time to fully prepare for winter.

In planted seedlings of hybrid persimmon with less winter hardiness than virginia, by spring, on the part of the shoot above the snow cover, longitudinal cracks, the core dries out.

A shoot begins to grow on the plant from the underground part of the trunk. And seedlings planted in the spring from a trench develop normally.

The main thing is to water regularly and not compact the soil around the plant, since persimmons have fragile roots. When planting, it is advisable to lower the grafting site below ground level, which in case of freezing of the above-ground part will guarantee the preservation of the grade.

Pest protection

On light soils, a beetle larva operates, eating up underground part plants. This is how my seedling of the Gora Goverla variety died.

I decided to protect another seedling of this variety, but not chemicals, but using ordinary clay. IN landing pit placed the roots, sprinkled them with soil, and covered the underground trunk to the level of the soil surface with a layer of clay several centimeters thick.

It is advisable to perform this procedure when spring planting, since in winter, if the above-ground part freezes, underground shoots can form, which are very difficult to break through dense clay, causing them to become deformed and slow down growth.

The hybrid pollinator was protected in a different way - by placing a rectangular cylinder cut from a PET bottle on its underground part and tying it with a ribbon made of natural fabric.

It will rot over time and allow the cylinder to unwind under the pressure of the plant. The voids in the cylinder were filled with sand. I borrowed this method from the famous Zaporozhye winegrower Pyotr Petrovich Shapoval, who protected the underground part of annual grape seedlings (the larva lives at a depth of 25 cm from the soil surface).

Our advice:

If there are a lot of beetle larvae in the area, both the first and second methods can be used to protect plants.

Konstantin MOROZ, Zaporozhye
© Ogorodnik magazine
Photo: depositphotos.com

Knowledge of the patterns of growth and fruiting, the timing of the formation of flower buds, the formation of staminate and pistillate flowers, the characteristics of flowering and its dependence on external factors is very important, both for the successful introduction and cultivation of these crops, and for breeding work.

Patterns of growth and fruiting. When propagated by seed, Virginia persimmon begins to bear fruit in the fifth or sixth year, Caucasian and eastern persimmons - in the fourth or fifth year.

Morphologically, the transition to fruiting in Virginia persimmon is, as a rule, expressed in the achievement of the fourth to fifth orders of branching, in the eastern and Caucasian - the second to fourth.

Plants propagated by parts taken from fruiting branches begin to bear fruit earlier than seed plants. Thus, eastern persimmon, when propagated by budding, often blooms in the same year, begins to bear fruit in the third or fourth year, and in the eighth year it enters the period of full fruiting.

As the tree ages, the number of branching orders increases and, having reached the limit characteristic of a given species, stops.

In Virginia persimmon, this is observed in the eighth or ninth year of life, upon reaching the fifth or sixth order of branching; in the eastern and Caucasian - in the sixth to eighth year of life, with the fifth order of branching.

Upon reaching the branching limit, only a change of branches occurs in the crown: shoots of higher orders die off and are replaced by shoots of the same orders, but they grow in places that are most provided with nutrition and abundance of phytohormones in a certain combination and ratio.

Depending on the age of the tree, growing conditions and agricultural technology used, the number of dry branches in the persimmon crown may be greater or less. It depends on the gender of the tree and the type of persimmon.

The male Virginian and Caucasian persimmon trees have the most dead branches, the female trees of the same species have the least number, and the least number are male and female eastern persimmon trees. To understand the described phenomenon, it is necessary to dwell on the nature of the growth of fruiting shoots.

A one-year shoot grows from the renewal bud of the persimmon. Depending on the position of the bud on the mother shoot, this grown annual shoot has more or less flowers. Largest quantity Persimmon flowers are formed below the middle part of the growing shoot. However, with a sufficient influx of nutrients and phytohormones, any bud can produce a flowering shoot, which is often observed in persimmons.

I.V. Michurin repeatedly pointed out in his works that an excess, as well as a lack of nutrients, delays the onset of fruiting. This provision also applies to the formation of fruit buds in persimmons.

With an excessive influx of nutrients and growth stimulants (phytohormones), rapid growth of shoots occurs, as a result of which the number of flower buds may decrease. With a lack of nutrients, the kidney either remains dormant, or, upon awakening, gives very little growth. Thus, depending on changing external and internal conditions, the meristem of the embryonic tubercle can form either vegetative or reproductive organs. Consequently, on fruiting shoots of persimmon, the meristem, by its very nature, is potentially fruitful.

In order for a fruitful shoot to develop from any rudimentary bud, the following is necessary:

1) formation of a fruit bud from meristem cells ready for fruiting in stages; 2) a sufficient influx of nutrients at the time of swelling of the bud on a lignified shoot and during further formation on a growing green shoot, and a certain hormonal regulation.

Compared to other types of fruit trees, the growing season of persimmon species begins late and depends on weather conditions.

Thus, in Tashkent, Denau and on the southern coast of Crimea (Yalta), Caucasian and eastern persimmons awaken in late March-early April, and in the foothills of Crimea - at the end of April.

Swelling of Virginia persimmon buds is observed five to eight days later. After the buds open, the shoots grow vigorously. By the time of flowering, their growth ends

Rice. 13.

Female tree branch.

1 - one-year escape,

2 - dormant buds,

3 - peduncle,

4 - buds renewal

Sometimes, more often in young trees, persimmons exhibit secondary

shoot growth and flowering on new growth.

In areas with high air and soil humidity, eastern persimmon has two growth periods: spring and summer, which makes it similar to subtropical evergreens.

Formation of flower buds.The structure of the kidneys. A fully formed persimmon bud at the end growing season consists of the following parts: a) two external and two internal scales; b) leaf primordia; c) cone-shaped stem part (bud axis).

In November-December, replacement buds are laid in the axils of the outer scales and intensively develop. By the beginning of the persimmon growing season, they consist of heavily pubescent bud scales and leaf primordia.

In case of death of budding leaves from low temperatures the replacement bud germinates, giving rise to a new shoot. The rudiments of axillary buds are formed later. In terms of maturity and size, axillary buds of the same embryonic shoot are unequal. The most developed buds are located in the middle and above the middle parts of the shoot.

Typically, flowering shoots are formed from these buds.

Caucasian persimmon buds are cone-shaped with two outer, dense, leathery, slightly pubescent dark brown scales. The internal scales have such dense pubescence that with a longitudinal section it is difficult to see the details of the structure of the kidney. The bud has up to 17 rudimentary leaves, the bases of which are also densely pubescent.

The buds of Virginia persimmon are somewhat smaller than the Caucasian buds. They are cone-shaped with a blunt tip. The outer scales are dense, leathery, brown, slightly pubescent, the inner scales are densely pubescent.

But in terms of pubescence, they are significantly inferior to the scales of Caucasian persimmon. Rudimentary leaves - up to 18. Their pubescence is weak.

Rice.

A) appearance buds at the end of the growing season (11/6/1951);

b) longitudinal sections buds at the end of the growing season (11/6/1951);

c) longitudinal sections of the buds at the beginning of the growing season (6.3.19542)

The buds of the eastern persimmon differ from the buds of previous species in that the outer bud scales cover the bud only 2/3 of the length. From under the outer scales, inner scales covered with thick silvery hairs are visible. Rudimentary leaves - up to 18. Their bases have dense pubescence.

Time of flower bud formation. It is known that in the vast majority of deciduous fruit species, the formation of flower buds occurs in the year preceding flowering. Moreover, the beginning of the formation of flower buds is observed only after the cessation of growth of vegetative shoots or, in extreme cases, coincides with the end of their growth. In the summer and autumn months, the formation of flower primordia in persimmon buds is not observed. At this time, the buds are growing. In them, the number of leaf primordia increases, the bud scales are formed and closed - the process of preparation for the formation of flower buds is underway.

With the start of sap flow, in early spring, on sections of buds under a microscope, the formation of tubercles can be observed in the axils of the embryonic leaves - these are future axillary buds. In the same year, either flowers or renewal buds will develop from them.

Consequently, the initiation and development of flower buds in persimmon occurs in early spring and occurs simultaneously with increased shoot growth.

A similar type of flower bud formation has been observed in citrus fruits, eucalyptus trees, and olives. (That is, in subtropical crops - Ed.).

When shoot growth resumes and there is favorable conditions It is possible that flower buds may form outside the usual time of year for their formation.

So, with the beginning of sap flow, especially during periods of swelling of the buds and their blossoming, there is an increased growth and differentiation of the established axillary buds. Until February, the bud from which the flower is formed is a tubercle with the rudiments of bracts. At this stage of formation, it is difficult to distinguish between generative and vegetative buds.

The timing of the formation of flower buds in persimmons is closely related to the weather and environmental conditions of growth, and is more or less certain for the studied persimmon species.

Male trees develop buds earlier than female trees.

In Virginia persimmon, the beginning of the formation of flower buds (on the embryonic shoot) occurred in December 1951, while in the eastern and Caucasian persimmon - at the end of February 1952. However, Virginia persimmon blooms later than eastern and Caucasian ones.

Thus, the formation of flower buds in a more frost-resistant species - Virginia persimmon - proceeds at a slower pace.

Interestingly, polygamous varieties of oriental persimmon produce female and male flowers in different proportions.

It is also possible in persimmon (virginia), in monogamous trees, the appearance of flowers of a different sex (on male trees, which produced only male flowers for 6-8 years, female flowers appeared, and then fruits).

Phases of development of persimmon flowers. When formed, the flowers are male and female persimmon The following phases of development pass through: 1) the formation of flower buds, 2) the appearance of a bud, 3) the fall of the flower scales, 4) the opening of the sepals, 5) the whitening of the petals, 6) the beginning of the divergence of the petals, 7) the full opening of the corolla, 8) the browning of the corolla, 9 ) fall of the corolla, the beginning of fruit set. Such a detailed separation of phases is necessary mainly for the breeder, for whom the following phases are of particular interest: the whitening of the petals, the beginning of the divergence of the petals, and the full opening of the corolla.

At this time (phases 6-7-8) there is a massive visit to persimmon flowers by pollinating insects. Most often these will be bees and wasps, less often - flies and ants.

Artificial pollination is best done on the first day of flower blooming in the morning and evening or on the second day in the morning.

Features of flowering and fruiting of persimmon. The beginning of persimmon flowering depends on the species characteristics, weather and environmental conditions of growth and it occurs during the period (May-June) when frosts are excluded. The progress and flowering order of persimmon species are shown in the graph.

Rice.

Male trees of all persimmon species are characterized by long period flowering than female ones, starting flowering one to two days earlier, ending it two to three days later. The polygamous variety of eastern Maru persimmon has the longest flowering period.

This is explained by the fact that with the beginning of the lower buds, which were formed in the spring, the growth of shoots and the formation of flower buds does not stop. As a result, both fruits and buds can be observed on one branch at the same time.

The flowers of the upper tiers of the crown and higher orders of branching open first, then the lower ones. The flowers of the upper shoots of the same branch are ahead of the underlying ones in development. Flowering occurs along the shoots from the base to the top. Flowers on the eastern and southeastern sides open one to two days earlier than on the northern and western sides.

During hybridization, such a different time of flowering allows pollination of persimmons to take place for quite a considerable time.

Persimmons of all types have well-germinating pollen.

Persimmons often produce seedless fruits. In eastern persimmon, this ability is so developed that some of its varieties are essentially parthenocarpic.

If pollination is not always necessary for a persimmon harvest, then for a number of varieties whose fruit quality depends on it, it is necessary, and the phenomenon of parthenocarpy for such varieties is undesirable. During the development of fruits of these varieties with pollination, i.e. If seeds develop in the fruits, their flesh becomes tart, dark, dark brown, dense, juicy, sweet, and sometimes crispy. The darkening of the pulp depends on the number of developed seeds.

To completely darken the fruit pulp, the development of at least three to four seeds is sufficient. Without pollination, the pulp of the fruits of these varieties remains light and tart in taste. If the color of the pulp does not completely change, the taste also partially changes. Darkened pulp is not astringent, but undarkened pulp is tart. Such fruits are inedible until fully ripe. The color of the skin of dark fruits becomes dark carmine. The existence of both dark-fleshed and seedless fruits is still unknown.

There is a group of persimmon varieties in which the color of the fruit pulp is always light, regardless of whether the fruit is seedless or with seeds. The fruit pulp of such varieties in the solid state is always tart; the fruits become edible only when they are fully ripe, i.e. after softening. These are the so-called constant varieties.

There are also varieties of persimmon, the fruits of which are always impatient. Such fruits have a sweet, tart pulp before ripening (Chinebuli, 20th century, Fuyu, etc.).

The fruits of Virginia and Caucasian fruits become intolerant only after they ripen, i.e. softening (more precisely, overripening) of the pericarp or pulp of the berry (fruit).

From the point of view of industrial culture, the fruits of Virginia persimmon have one significant drawback - they quickly fall to the ground when softened at the time of ripening . (Meaning - complete - approx. Ed.). This is observed even in its cultivated varieties (Meader et al.).

In some cultivated varieties of oriental persimmon, which form only female flowers, even singly standing trees form seeds (Hiakume, Kostata, Nikitskaya burgundy), although, theoretically, self-pollination is impossible due to the lack of male flowers. (Nikitskaya burgundy in very a small number of male flowers sometimes still forms - approx.. Ed.). It is quite possible that some flowers still produce their own pollen, which can cause fertilization. Moreover, experiments confirm the possibility of persimmon seeds developing under the influence of foreign pollen.

Dependence of flowering and fruiting on external factors. The duration and beginning of persimmon flowering depend on weather conditions. In years when the winter is dry and warm, flowering occurs much earlier than in a rainy and cold spring.

So, a dry and warm spring caused early flowering both Virginia and Caucasian persimmons. It accordingly moved by 8-9 days (Tashkent).

The flowering period in a dry and hot year is shorter than in a humid and cool year; in wet weather, the flowering of Virginia persimmon lasted 18 days, Caucasian - 14, and in dry spring, the flowering of the first type lasted 12 days, the second - 7. The duration was almost halved.

The beginning of flowering and its duration also depend on the location of growth: the flowering of Virginia persimmon in the city of Bishkek occurs in June, while in the conditions of Denau and Tashkent, on the South Coast (Crimea) - in May. In Crimea, near Simferopol, persimmons bloom in June.

Persimmon fruits begin to ripen in Central Asia and the South Coast in September or early October (depending on weather conditions). Ripening lasts until late autumn or early winter (early, middle and late varieties).

In culture great importance for fruiting (for crop formation) have correct pruning and appropriate crown formation. There are various statements on this matter, and some authors, in general, speak out against pruning. In this regard, the opinion of A.Ya. Zaretsky: “Persimmon needs not only the formation of the crown, but also “pruning” for fruiting” most correctly.

We believe that in the conditions of, for example, Uzbekistan, on the northern border of persimmon growth (In other regions, on the same border, Naturally, - too - approx. Ed.), pruning is definitely necessary.

Correct pruning, taking into account the varietal and species characteristics of persimmons, gives the crown the necessary structure (and strength), improves the quality and increases the quantity of fruits . (That is, exactly the same as with other crops - why persimmon should be an exception - approx. Ed.)

Such statements are based on the following biological features persimmons:

1. As the tree ages, young fruit-bearing shoots move more and more to the periphery of the crown. At the same time, the fruits become smaller and their quality deteriorates, and branches heavily loaded with harvest often break off. Indeed, under certain conditions, any bud of an adult plant can produce a flowering shoot.

Pruning should be limited to removing branches that have finished bearing fruit. From the dormant buds at the base of the branches, left during pruning, strong shoots will grow, which next year will produce good harvest. (In addition, pruning allows you to limit the size of the crown - approx. Ed.).

The correctness of this situation can be confirmed by the centuries-old experience of persimmon culture in China, where, according to A.N. Krasnov, when collecting fruits, fruit-bearing branches are regularly broken off. It was noted that breaking off does not negatively affect fruiting next year. This kind of pruning, but not breaking off, can be carried out during fruit harvesting in our country. “Excessive” harvesting of cuttings (obviously, referring to mother trees - approx. Ed.)- reduces the yield from the tree.

Of great importance in the fight against fruit drop and in increasing the frost resistance of persimmons are: the irrigation regime and the regime (composition, quantity) of fertilizer application.

The issue of moisture supply is very important for normal persimmon fruiting. Persimmon is a moisture-loving plant, much like a plum or pear. (at least, but actually more - editor's note), especially since its demand for moisture increases in new hot areas with their dry and hot air. Lack of water in the soil leads to dropping of fruits, especially in seedless forms and varieties, and loss of part of the harvest.

In the conditions of Denau (southern Uzbekistan), 8-10 waterings during the growing season ensure good fruiting of persimmons. Small irrigation rates are used there.

In Central Asia, according to Zaretsky, the possibility of cultivating eastern persimmon has been tested in the Surkhan-Darya region of Uzbekistan. It is quite possible to cultivate persimmon in western Turkmenistan, especially in the southwestern part.

An indicator of the possibility of cultivating eastern persimmon is the successful fruiting in a particular region of peach, Caucasian persimmon, and in the zone of uncovered grapes.

Planting oriental persimmon grafted onto Virginian persimmon will help clarify the possibility of persimmon culture. Virginia persimmon and its cultivated varieties can be grown much further north (North Caucasus, Moldova). Ours is central Ukraine.

From everything that has been said about the biology of flowering and fruiting of persimmons, the following conclusions can be drawn:

1. In the buds of Virginian, eastern and Caucasian persimmons, the formation of flower buds does not occur in the period from the end of shoot growth to the beginning of the growth of embryonic shoots.

Flower buds of these types of persimmons are laid and formed in early spring simultaneously with increased shoot growth.

2. First of all, the beginning of the formation of flower buds was noted in the most frost-resistant species - Virginia persimmon. It blooms later than Caucasian and eastern persimmons, although the flower buds of the latter are laid in the second half February-March. Consequently, the rate of formation of flower buds in Virginia persimmon is slower. This situation confirms the connection between the rate of formation of flower buds and frost resistance.

3. The beginning of persimmon flowering depends on the species characteristics, weather and environmental conditions of growth, with male trees blooming one to two days earlier and ending flowering two to three days later than female ones. Persimmon blooms during a period when frosts are excluded under local conditions.

4. With the resumption of shoot growth and the presence of favorable conditions, the initiation and formation of flower buds and flowering in persimmon can be observed later in the year (June-August).

All this suggests that the formation of flower buds occurs simultaneously with the growth of shoots, and that any bud of a mature shoot under certain conditions can produce a flowering shoot. This circumstance must be taken into account when developing persimmon pruning techniques.

5. Pruning should be limited to removing fruit-bearing branches. From the dormant buds present at the base of the branches, left during pruning, strong shoots grow, which, with appropriate care (bending, pruning), will give a good harvest in 1-2 years.

Photo The first fruiting of a 3-year-old persimmon tree (Khiakume variety - Fruktovoye village, Sevastopol)

Chat chat is used here, i.e. installation of supports has been replaced by the umbrella method.

The support tapes are fixed in the center, at the top of the central support - the column.

This technique is used only on young trees, say up to five years old.

The shedding of the ovary from a persimmon grafted onto a Virginia rootstock may be due to the absence of a pollinator tree nearby. Varietal persimmon is dioecious, that is, female plants bear fruit only in pairs with male ones. In the absence of pollination, persimmon fruits do not set seeds, and the tree, “realizing” the uselessness of its own fruits, gets rid of them.

In gardens, persimmon trees can be combined according to this principle: several female plants and one male (in the center). You can determine whether your tree is female or male by the location of the stalks and the shape of the branches. On a female tree, the stalks are located less frequently and singly, while on a male tree they are denser and in groups. In addition, the branches of female trees are significantly thicker compared to the branches of male trees.

If you have small plot and there is no space for planting several seedlings, you can use other varieties of persimmon that do not require a pollinator (but the disadvantage is their low frost resistance). Also popular are seedless persimmon varieties, which are more demanding on soil quality and lighting. Therefore, use tree varieties that are adapted to your climate zone, and don’t forget about the peculiarities of growing dioecious animals!

But the shedding of persimmon ovaries may also be associated with other factors. It is known that root system persimmon is underdeveloped, so these trees require special care, associated with periodic loosening of the tree trunk circle and the application of complex fertilizers. With a lack of feeding, the ovary develops poorly and falls off over time.

Alexander Sokolenko

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Many gardeners are convinced that when good care persimmons are required to produce a solid harvest every season. They forget that a tree is a living organism in which certain processes constantly occur, sometimes invisible to the eye. Anxiety does not leave gardeners trying to understand why persimmons are falling off. It is necessary to establish in which cases it is possible to take measures without allowing it to crumble, and in which cases everything is useless, and all that remains is to come to terms with it.

Types of reasons

Among the reasons for the shedding of persimmons, one can distinguish both natural and natural ones, as well as sudden ones. The problem can be expressed not only in the falling of fruits to the ground, but also in the absence of fruiting, and the reasons can be the same. Possible reasons: errors in care, lack of pollination, sudden temperature fluctuations, diseases, pests.

Errors in care

The state of persimmon is mirror image caring for it: if there are errors, they are manifested by symptoms. Regular and sufficient watering, fertilizing - the most important conditions normal development of the tree, ensuring normal formation of ovaries. Among inorganic fertilizers, it is better to give preference to potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. Fertilizing and abundant watering should be carried out several times a year:

• before the start of sap flow;
• during the formation of flower buds;
• after flowering;
• during the formation of ovaries;
• about a month before the arrival of frost.

Excess moisture can also cause harm:

• with excessive watering, unripe fruits fall off;
• with close flow groundwater the roots begin to rot, and the unripe persimmon crumbles.

Lack of pollination

Pollination is the primary condition for reproduction. Persimmon is a dioecious plant: it bears fruit if the female plant is pollinated by the male, otherwise the ovaries are not formed.

In addition to the lack of harvest, another consequence is the dropping of unripe fruits. A way out of the situation: planting several female trees and one male tree on the site. Visually, a male tree can be distinguished from a female tree by more crowded stalks and thinner branches.

If the tree does not bear fruit, it is recommended to limit the growth of trees under 3 years old. To do this, it is necessary to pinch the branches, thanks to this fruiting will occur sooner, and after 3 years the tree will already produce a bountiful harvest without pinching.

Sudden temperature fluctuations

If a persimmon grows in an area characterized by constant weather changes throughout the season, leading to either an increase or decrease in temperature, the tree will react to them. This may be expressed in the inability to form ovaries or in the dropping of fruits. The way out of the situation is to land in right place without drafts and with good access to sunlight.

Diseases

Diseases can be one of the obvious reasons for persimmon shedding. One of the most common misfortunes is brown spot, the causative agent of which is a fungus.

The obvious symptom is white speckling on the leaves, which quickly develops into large spots. The pest gets not only to the leaves, but also to the stalk, which is why the persimmon crumbles long before full ripening.

Other pathogens include viruses and microbes. Their occurrence can be prevented using preventive treatments with a composition of sulfur and cuproxate.

Pests

Persimmons are often affected by various pests:

• codling moths;
• weevils;
• aphids;
• scale insect.

They mainly attack leaves, but often reach other parts of the tree. Nutrients stop flowing to the branches, which leads to shedding and death of the crop, which has not yet ripened.

Another characteristic feature pests that have settled on the tree - the leaves fold in half, dry out and fall off. It is easier to do prevention than to fight pests: before flowering, treat the tree with Confidor, and in the summer put a catching belt on it.